Відео

@@steffanevans-hughes4467 it would make power over an injen, but requires a little more work with breather deletes etc and will 100% require a map to set the hardware pipe diameters up if your cars not mapped on speed density. (Injens only 2.5” whilst this things 3”) so sensors need re setting up

@@Matty_Champwhite legend cheers for that, I’d like to give it the best intake I can as I’ve got DC cams RRC inlet 421 etc so I’ve got all the bolt ons, just feel a better intake may help. Then Possibly port the RRc to 70mm also … It’s been mapped to above mods on the good old ECUtek , so I’d definitely take it back for a fine tune when I change it over Legend for your champ white aswell 👌💪 Hell of a machine

Yes you do at high rpm - I do with mine. Probably from 7k onwards buddy.

@@kickassaz thanks, yeah that's where I'm experiencing it took, glad it's normal then.

@@Springwater786 yeah mate. I'm on the original clutch at 80k miles. Soon to be changed but I doubt it will cancel the vibration. My engine is polybushed too.

@@kickassaz I'm on 85,000 miles and replaced the clutch a few months ago, standard engine mounts though

@@Springwater786 ah yeah it's fine mate. I got my selector springs and detents done soon

@@mazjap no mate just jack up the passenger side and unscrew the arch liner 10 min job 👌

@@djotenjdm7213 you can get a wrench on the handbrake mech on the rear calliper itself. If the mech has totally seized it could be a calliper issue. If the mechs free cables are a good bet

@@Matty_Champwhite I managed to free it up, the handbrake part was seized on the caliper. Cables work perfectly now. Cheers

@@stefanmills2266 these do help engagement, but most likely worn synchros in your case, sounds like a gearbox rebuild job

@@Matty_Champwhite great news 😂 thank you

@@henrir4362 I’d buy a selection of push fit clips either from Honda or eBay as you’ll 100% break some of your haven’t had it off before. Search on eBay for Honda clips and you’ll see the variety

@@henrir4362 if you wanted the exact ones you’ll need to speak to Honda parts but you’ll pay 10x more

@@Luisen1509 I did do but stopped them about a year ago. Message me on insta and I’ll send you my blueprints over to make your own

@@garethtaylor8018 yeah man they are getting to an age where this shit can happen. I just had one side not working at all. Was well hairy parking on hills 😂

@@buck3655 5 minute job, not sure who’s been feeding you that information. 3 screws and a couple push fits on the arche liner. Done 👍

@@djcaymann trash trash and trash don’t buy it

@@Ashmansdetailing connects 2 control box is needed to interface with the steering wheels controls

@@Matty_Champwhite thanks for the reply. did you connect with CANBUS? And which setting did you select into the Factory setting on the Head Unit? I have the contect 2 but still struggling

@@KrzysVTi great blasting road hahah shocked there isn’t cameras on it yet!

@@Matty_Champwhite Give it time haha!

@@hkgkagami I know the cables are likely different as the aftermarket ones list a different part number per models. Little help sorry

Tried them all went back to a stock for ride height, issue with my area is speed bumps and 3” exhaust catching on everything! Teins are way way more comfy that eibach though and less ‘crashy’ than OEM

Rupes DA green that was mate heavy/medium cutter

It’s actually sachs high performance grease, autodoc stock it

Yeah it’s wedged in there on the shaft driven ones. It’s a lightweight half size thing too.. Scuttle tray off, it’s a bit of a faff to be honest so make sure you fit a decent one!!

SPICOP/Planner mate haha

@@Matty_Champwhite haha. Great vids mate, watched them all and the dynodaze ones. You’ve got a beast there! Had mine for over 12 years but fully stock ☹️

@@shazzy85_66 currently looking for the next project this is done now

I chucked a full poly bush kit in mine same time as new lower arms and heavy duty drop links. All acquired off autodoc, I’ll drop my shopping list on here. Those poly bushes can be utter B**tards so I left that to the garage haha

Refresh Here's a list with part numbers of all FN2 parts used in the refresh, some OEM some upgrades. SNR top mount kits with bearings - KB674.03 MEYLE roll bar drop links - 31-16 060 0002/HD SACHS LH front shock - 313 593 SACHS RH front shock 313 594 SACHS REAR either side shock - 317 471 Honda rear shock mounting bolt - 90172-SAA-010 KYB K-Flex front spring (stock height) - RA4022 KYB K-Flex rear spring (stock height) - RA7080 Impercom dust boot kit - 50925 Eibach pro spring kit - E10-40-011-01-22 Moog LH wishbone - HO-TC-5730 Moog RH wishbone - HO-TC-5731 APEC track rod end RH - AST6548 APEC track rod end LH - AST6547 ABS Hand brake cable - K12097 ABS Hand brake cable - K10788 Yellow stuff road race pad FRONT - DP41254R Red stuff road race pad FRONT - DP31254C Red stuff road race pad REARS - DP31902C Yellow stuff race pad REARS - DP41902R Drive shafts sourced through www.jandrcvjoints.co.uk Poly bushes, hoses, fittings www.Dynodaze.com Discount code matty5 NGK iridium IFR7G 11ks -For NA BKR-8EIX -For Boosted as they are a step colder. Matty Champwhite

They play a role in keeping the disk clean for sure, bit not a chance I was paying £100 for them. Paid less for the disks pads and bearings!

Connects 2, mine came with it

@Matty_Champwhite I just purchased one (after I commented here) and all works fine except for the top screen. The seller is asking me to connect everything properly which I did. I just don't know which cable exactly is the one for the top screen to double check. The seller confirmed that it was supplied in the package

@@bringman23 the connects two that controls the top screen is the cable with the black box of tricks on it. That’s the canbus modal that connects with the car, and what’s known as the connects 2

@@Matty_Champwhite brilliant!! I'll check that cable! Cheers!

Ali express hahah they are only about £25

Company called fat man scoops on eBay mate

It runs on the stock RSP manifold, this one if you Google it is a TTS Shaft drive rotrex kit. Should show you what you’re after 👍 And it’s the best kit for a road car with options to fit any size charger

Yeah if there was one at hand then it would have been, but would have been far less efficient as we didn’t have one.

Course this is the good stuff mate amzn.eu/d/5FYHgQW

These are super strong might be too strong for her to close. When you have a mugan spoiler the extra weight counteracts this

Many Thanks

Don’t get this it’s not great at lasting very long. Was a China special. Get a branded and a connects 2 patch lead

Which would you recommend?

@@leemurphy265 anything Panasonic, Sony, pioneer with Apple car play/android auto really modernise the civic

You fix that with the adjuster in the car under the centre console from inside. If that doesn’t work the cables will need replacing 👌

@@Matty_Champwhite I just stretched the cable to the end, in the caliper, than started adjusting in the adjuster. For now it's working

R26 everyday of the week, our handles out performs the Fn2 in every way. BUT the R26 is very unreliable

@@Matty_Champwhite thanks. Will go for the r26. Since will be a part timer

@@bharatmodi6712 100% make sure it is a proper R26 too as the normal megane 225’s didn’t have the limited slip diff which would make them worse than the fn2 CW. Very easy to get a megane to 275bhp/300 ft/lb (the safe engine limits on the F4rt) like mine was, to get a civic there you’re talking thousands and thousands

You sure can mate, but a bit tougher to close but opening is a dream

@@Matty_Champwhite thanks for that, mine are awful at the moment so I'll get some ordered!

Email me on insta mate and I’ll get you some blueprints sorted, had too many idiots not reading what they were for on eBay so had to take them down

Matty_champwhite

Your connects 2 lead is likely faulty or the interface itself. My connects 2 lead stopped working after 2 weeks, lost all functionality with the steering wheel and the top screen went blank. I replaced it and it was fine afterwards 👌

@@Matty_Champwhite I didn't know the stereo already had a connects2 cable inside, I thought it was aftermarket too.

@@kidchig mine had a genuine connects 2 cable included with it mate, it will work without one, but no functionality will work with it. If you haven’t got one it’s worth trying one in there if your head unit supports it 👌

True never intended on making it a video as it was an experiment. So had to make do. Was a guide for the Facebook crew

Never even thought as they were that easy to remove, literally 20 mins to get both sides out

@@Matty_Champwhite just going to wait until it’s a bit warmer I’m scared of snapping the plastic

@@MissionKid that’s not a bad shout to be fair mate, won’t be long now

I used Rupes DA polish and standard wet and dry paper. Kits are overpriced