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Thank you for this video! I followed the technique for the most part. I used an oil stain for the first coat wiping off all excess. I used a foam brush for the top coats. On that I used 1500 grit paper with 0000 steel wool both soaked with mineral oil to finish the finish.

Fantastic call water popping before a water based stain. I water pop every cutting board before mineral oil but never considered it before staining.

DO NOT TRY THIS. I ruined a pool table that took four years to build. Results are not like what you see in videos. Doubts? Get a few pieces like your project and see if you can get everything to match. And be fair. Do it like you would for your project. What you will find is that nothing comes out the same. If you absolutely must do this, do not apply sanding sealer until everything is the same tint/color on your project. Test scraps. If you get color continuity, stain everything THAT day. Honestly, this is a nightmare.

Very insightful. Thank you for sharing this technique.

Hi Jeff, this is exactly what I was looking for. I building a custom staircase in a 1929 arts & crafts home for a client of mine. The newel, skirts, knee-wall cap and balusters will be painted and the handrail newel cap and bottom shoe rail will be Oak. Unfortunately it is hard to get White Oak stair parts. Will this technique work good with Red Oak? If so are there any additional steps, like filling the open pours?

Thanks Jeff, I had forgotten how to use Transtint, I still have some colours from the purchase I made with you many moons ago. You are a very generous person to share what you know, I remember when I first wrote with you back on Badger Pond that you always gave great and solid advice. Again I will assume to darken a colour after a first application I would apply a second coat? Top coats can be any clear coat? Thanks again, Jim Shaver

Outstanding is right! I learned so much from this video! Great instruction and attention to detail.

Is a sealer coat, like diluted shellac, not needed to ensure even dyeing on woods that tend to absorb coloring unevenly?

Thanks for the great advice. One Handed Maker- Australia

Thx

Excellent video, thanks for the help.

This video is so incredibly helpful! I’ve done this technique on my mission oak kitchen table and it has turned out beautiful. I’m ready to apply the polyurethane finish. I’m going to use an oil based, wipe on polyurethane. Do you recommend a spray coat of shellac prior to putting on the polyurethane to prevent color lift or is that not necessary?

Love it Jeff! I'm a fairly new shop owner and recently switched to transtints. love them...we mostly use for tinting sealers and topcoats. im have a heck of a time staining hard maple doors with them though. we've tried a lot of interations...differnt grit preps, preppeing with scraper, sealing with shellac - various cuts, sealers, conditioners, mixing the tints with water, alcohol, a combo, etc. wiping, spraying, spraying then wiping...still getting the age old issue of splotching! I've searched high and low and can't find a proven set of processes, wondering if the master could shed some light on it! ive read your book btw and it's a 'bible' in the shop! thanks & nice work!

I'd love to know which color of dye stain was used here.

excellent tutorial. I've been using tinted lacquer as a toner on maple cabinets. My final result ( after a lot of heart ache) was very nice. I am no where near your skill level though and this vid will help me out. thank you.

Nice video Jeff.

Loved the tutorial! For the record, I didn’t think that roast to be a “problem”, I do like it either way though.

Excellent

I made a replacement table leaf for an old quartersawn oak table I inherited. Could not quite match the finish until I stumbled upon your guide. Thanks to this video I nailed it and now have a new piece that matches so well no one can tell which one is the new one.

What do you recommend sealing the wood with after for protection from abuse ??

Thank you for your expertise.

Hi, I am beginner in woodworking and maybe you could give me advice. I just sprayed first layer of lacquer on birch plywood and when it dried out I noticed a one spot on corner that is shining more than a rest of the surface I think I sprayed there more and there is like a puddle of lacquer. Should I sand that corner only that spot and apply a second coat of lacquer to whole surface?

In this video at 8 minutes 40 seconds, just prior to dyeing the top, you showed a view of the table standing upright. It looks to me as if there are quite a few blotchy "hard edges" where the dye overlaps and leaves uneven surfaces. How is this evened out? I've worked with water soluble aniline dyes and that requires a "do-over."

wow thats a beaut! I love the crisp top end shimmer but also the attack and mid range, also plenty of base! It sounds like my 18-style Martin Custom SHop (BUT NICER!). I love the top and it is like a hybrid between addy and engleman.

Thanks for the video.

Nice vid. Dont use water as the solvent, use alcohol from walgreens, the lower the water, the better. No grain raising and you can start finishing in minutes.

Thank you for your very clear and detailed description of a mission oak finish of a new wood project. I am about to embark on my first Arts and Crafts project, and I feel much more confident that I can finish the wood successfully because of your instruction. Thanks again!

Nice build and phenomenal playing.

I'm a Jewitt from UK..never knew about these!...will have to start saving...fantastic.

I spray General Finished High Performance Water Base Cleat Coat finish. I sand between coats. Sometimes it just needs a touch up spray. Do I need to concern myself with burn in?

I am finishing some QSWO cabinets, I have purchased them unfinished. I have followed this process, but there is some blotchiness, do you know what might have caused this? It’s not too bad and it seems to be correlating with the tightness of the grain and how the wood was cut. Any tips to prevent blotchiness?

Hi, I am definitely a newbie when it comes to staining wood. I am working on refinishing a curio cabinet. How do I take off the old finish and prep the wood for the stain? Do you have a tutorial on how you do this?

Hi Jeff, Do you have any suggestions if you do end up with a "hard edge" ? I have some hard edges on the panels of a frame and panel cabinet door I just made.

Do woodworkers only use this combo technique with furniture? Does anyone use this technique with baseboards and interior doors? I am refinishing the old woodwork in my home and this seems like it would be too much. I'm not afraid of the work but the time constraints would be a bit too much perhaps. Could I perhaps use the SealACell first, then apply a gel stain with a topcoat? Also, I thought the instructions on the back of the SealACell said that the product was intended to be used on wood that was NOT to be stained?

Jeff, I'm following your process on a Stickley repro blanket chest I'm making. I'm aiming for the Onondaga finish. It's a fairly large piece (18 x 36) . My plan is to dye the pieces before I do the glue-ups. Is that okay to do? Thanks for a great article and for doing this video. Mike

Awesome technique! thanks Jeff. I'm using it on kitchen cabinets and it's quite close to Stickley's finish.

Wow! I love dreads, and I love mission style furniture. But I never thought about combining them, and using white oak on a guitar body. Thanks for the demo. Nice playing!

Very informative nice job thank you

do you have the plans for this table?

Beautiful guitar, great craftsmanship!

I've repaired a old guitar headstock, I had to sand off a lot of the old lacquer. Can I spray 2k urethene on top ?

Thank you. Your instructional videos on stain and finishing are the absolute best.

Very helpful. As you know, I make TV trays with your dyes. Great technique I can apply. Really cool idea with water on the end grain. Rick

Very nice Jeff thank you. Beautiful guitars.

I use Transtint and Transfast a lot. One hint is always mix with distilled water. WoodRicks

So you put the transtint in the 1:2 clear laquer with thinner solution? Can i roast my maple guitar neck to look it that dark?

Thank you! No one explains finishing more clearly than you.

Beautiful build

Sounds great! Looking at a silver oak Larrivee and looking for comparisons. Not much on the web as it is not a common tonewood, so thanks for the swell playing and, to my ears, old-timey sound I'm looking for.

Price please?