Відео

I love the ICE Ignition Systems

I think body position you are doing what I did for like 5 trackdays, I finally cracked it by moving back 2 inches from being pressed against the tank, which allowed my outside leg to come around the tank and naturally find a better position. I can’t obv show a picture but I don’t hang off extremely yet knee down is fine now. The other thing was consciously pulling my head down to try to meet the inside bar, this dropped my body into the turn and stops that awkward feeling. I know it’s a frustrating aspect but once you get that basic frame sorted and then build a bit of speed all of a sudden it just clicks

I’ve had a few, one error people make is dropping the forks but it really overloads the front. I got an adjustable rear shock link for an 1098s and it allows you to make sure the ride height is consistent. Even if you are more at the novice end you can normally feel the difference

I don't get what that plug was for? I'll have to take a closer look in the summer to see what I'm unplugging.

For anyone confused about the Quickshifter plug. It's 100% the grey plug shown in the video. I have a Quickshifter and the USB charger and they're separate.

Tried to install mine on my 2024 R7 and it's like that screw is just a tiny bit too short to support the USB bracket. Can't seem to get it to bite and tighten. Such a shame cause it seems like the perfect location. Don't want to install it near/on the handle bars as the R7's are crowded as is. Only fix I can see for that is a slightly longer screw. lol.

sadly stace, being a woman walking into a machine shop you got ripped off big time, having been an engine reconditioner now retired for over 50 years you got scammed, with plenty of 304- 308 blocks available we would never sleeve 8 pots on a 308, maybe one, not all eight, its so expensive to customer, only a matching numbers hk bathurst morano ect would be worth the expense, the yella terra valves, are very hard, the stems never wear and should have not have been replaced, the valves you got are no where near as good as the YT diamond hard valves, heads needed just new guides, unleaded seats on exhaust, and seats cut, crows cam kits are a rip off, oil pump needs a rebuild new gears ect, new rod bolts ok, rest of new bolts studs waste of money, for your rebuild, say a new second hand block, cost $1000, bored 40th, rebuilt your heads, dyno tech cam lifters, stock retainers and collets and push rods, decked block , linish crank, supply bearings , balance, set deck height comp ratio for a near stock under 6000rpm 308 would be $7-10k, advice , never let engine builder , machine shop supply parts, they rip you off, my advice goggle precision international for engine parts, like cam lifters ect and you will be amazed how cheap stuff like valves, collets ect are thats where machine shops get there parts from and then rip you off i rebuilt a hemi 245 for a friend, being retired got a well known machine shop to do the work , re-bore , head work ect similar to your engine, cost with parts i bought was under 5k you live and learn, never get machine shop to supply parts take your own pistons and get bored to suit, buy all your own bearings , cam parts from precision international , online and cheap, hope that helps from an old fart that once worked at crankshaft re-builders cheers stace

What was the cost on the reserve roughly? And the grouting of the block

$9800

Great video! Looking forward to hearing it run 💪

Hey Stace, do you have the wire coming off your park brake switch still attached? I have this short length of black wire which is hanging and I don’t see where it would have attached to the wiring loom. The manual says it’s a yellow wire going back to the dash light but the only yellow wire I see goes to the rear taillights. The park brake switch basically grounds the wire when the handbrake is pulled up but I’m unsure where my wire goes from that point. Will be interesting to see what colour wire yours is and where it splices/plugs into. Cheers

I think u r crazy wasting that much money on a motor that full of glue youll be lucky if it puts out 350 hp get some after market heads something that flows

I wouldn't be unhappy with what you have done, It is a massive job and everything is now rust proof, You can put your interior in with confidence knowing that it not going to Rust. Awesome job!

308 v8 1st released 1974 = i remember as i was selling Holden Genuine spare parts = sold a lot of parts foe FJ - hx and then left !

Crush doesn't seem to be checked much anymore. People rely on the tunnels and bearing shells being on size I think. Still a valid test.

Greetings from central Europe. I dedicated myself to this hobby in my middle age at the beginning of 2024. My current “first” motorcycle is a 2019 Desert Sled that I rode a lot last year. Now I'm looking for a second, sportier motorcycle for the next season. Can't decide between a 950s (comfy) or an older 848/899 (radical). I really like your videos because you share your experiences and impressions with all the pros and cons. Wish you a safe ride!

I like the methodical approach you took to your first track day. I remember the first time I ever went on a track was at Amaroo Park on a mate's RZ350 for a Friday practice prior to a race weekend. I thought I was doing really well until I highsided off the end of the curbing coming onto the main straight! The bike went into the armco, then overtook me as I was sliding up the track - it was a mess. They carted me off to hospital with a suspected broken shoulder, but it turned out I was fine. My mate wasn't pleased that his RZ was very badly bent though! That kink at Lakeside used to scare the crap out of me because there was (is?) a nasty bump right on the racing line at the apex & it would push you out wide toward the dirt embankment on the right. I remember seeing Peter Goddard hit it on the Ansett Airfreight Suzuki GSXR750 superbike going full noise & it catapulted him & the bike straight into the bank. It was a huge crash but he walked away from it! I'm thinking about doing a track day at Qld Raceway (it's closer to me than Lakeside), but haven't worked up the enthusiasm enough yet! Maybe soon...

Yes, pulling is always better. Keep it up. ❤

It's great to see you having a go well done 👏 ✔️ 👍

I'm not much of a mechanic really, but it seems that when you're dealing with hand tools and thousands of an inch, it might be very easy to get different readings EVERY time. Just how it seems to me. 😅 Good thing I'm not doing the work. That breaker bar might become a permanent addition to that engine. Ha

Just in addition, to my previous comment, the measurements you're getting make sense because the fatigue of a crank in a block will occur most where there is less casr material or les block material to support the pumping movement of an engine. The end caps on either end will nturally have less tolerance because they have more material support. Essentially there is the same force being applied to less material in the middle of the block, thus creating clearance variation. This is why girdles are used on some engines to give added support for that middle componentry.

I love learning as you're learning Stace. I've built heaps of red sixes and learned from a guy who used to build holden race engines back in the day and he used to talk about bearing crush tolerances, both main and rod of course (which most dheck via plasti guage or possibly a dial guage in a home workshop environment) but he used to do it all with precision guages and feeler guages for main cap crush tolerance. He has he's always said to me, for anything but extreme race usage at typically high revs and multiple hour race usage, the tolerance variance is quit wide in comparison, even for high performance street applications because there typically not run at that extreme for lengthy times at extreme limits. He used to say to me when building a stout engine, the best place to start aside from a good block, was good balanced and line honed crank and then bearing crush is not an issue. As you said the only variance in that case would be variations in bearings. I've always line honed and had cranks balanced where I've mixed and matched cranks and blocks, but where the crank has been in that block, I have never worried. Most of the time it wast overkill, but it was piece of mind when building a spicy powerplant, and like you, didn't want bottom end issues. Just my experience as an absolute amateur from waaay more experienced engine assemblers and builders than me.

It's interesting watching this vid & seeing how enamoured you are with the Supersport - & it's great that you love it so much. My mate in Sydney bought a new Supersport 950 S in 2022. Because of availability issues he ended up buying it from Motorcycles R Us in Springwood & I picked it up & put it in my garage until he was able to fly up & take it back to Sydney. In the meantime I put a couple of hundred km on it & while I liked it, I didn't like it enough to want to buy one. It did get me thinking though that I should sell my 2015 Street Triple 675 RX (which was a fantastic bike) & buy something new - so I waited for MRU to get a Streetfighter V2 demo, rode it a couple of times & ordered one. In hindsight that was a mistake. As much as I really wanted to love that bike, I just couldn't ever get to a point where I really enjoyed riding it. After I'd had it for about a year I was down at Moss St getting some new tyres put on Michelle's MT-03 & I wandered down to the Triumph dealer & took a Speed Triple 1200 RS for a ride. As soon as I got on it I felt like it was the bike for me! It was just like being on the Street Triple, only in beast mode! Within a couple of days I had bought a 2023 demo with 1200km on it from another dealer & the Streetfighter was on the market. I don't know why I never came to terms with that bike. I really wanted to, but I just never felt like I enjoyed riding it as much as I should. Maybe I'm just not a "Ducati guy". My mate absolutely loves his 950 S though. 😊

Definitely agree on reason #4! I like to say that riding is not a passive activity (neither is driving a car for that matter). I watch a lot of videos of people crashing motorcycles & in a lot of cases it's because they didn't pay attention to what they were doing & what was going on around them. You cannot ride safely unless you're fully immersed in what you're doing - & for me that means I don't even have my phone mounted on the bars. It stays firmly in my pocket & if I really need it for navigation (as everyone claims is the reason they have their phone on a Quad Lock) I'm lucky enough that my Speed Triple 1200 RS has navigation on the display. I got my motorcycle license at 15 (I'm 60 now) & although I've had a few breaks away from riding, I've been a motorcycle courier in Sydney, raced production & superbike, ridden across Vietnam, Cambodia & into the Indian Himalayas & I've never had an at-speed crash on the road as a rider. I mostly put that down to making sure every time I get on a bike I'm 100% focussed on what I'm doing. I also understand your reason #3 - & in fact the being on your own part is one of the things I love about riding. Sure - my wife & I go out for rides together sometimes (I taught her to ride about 3 years ago & she rides a Street Triple 660), but we don't use comms because we like the isolation of it just being us on our bikes. There's nothing like being on your bike, in your own head & constantly honing your skills & learning new things.

Watching this track day vs your 4th one was interesting. You definitely seem to have more confidence & are riding smoother & accelerating harder out of corners. Also, your downshift points are better - ie: on the 4th track day I noticed you downshifting a bit early a lot of the time, whereas on this one you were timing them a lot better. Big improvement between the 2 track days!

Hello from Texas! Thank you for sharing your progress! As a 50+ year old track rider myself, I share the same hurdles you are dealing with. Keep at it! Love your channel!

Nothing quite as satisfying as the first time they fire up back to life!

old red motors cant beat them

Great !

Hi Stace, I am one of those riders that enjoys the Mt Mee route. The rawness of the road conditions on a good day are a reminder of being ready for the unexpected. In saying that I enjoyed your practice and continued learning video about a skill you are interested on working on. I wanted to call something out that I had to be “aware of” when doing the twisty’s on the Mt Mee run. I am only new to motorcycle riding myself, and have learned a lot in the last 4000kms of commuting in and around that area for work. Be careful of your lane positioning particularly when taking a right hand bend. Your camera view set up is excellent and shows multiple road craft elements that are key to safe riding. There were some tight twists (I know the ones) that require more effort and focus, easy for a track day scenario, but it doesn’t factor in the other side of the road drivers/riders. Car drivers take the corners early which means you may not wish to track so close to the centre line. Safe riding Stace. Loved the video and learnings you shared.

Sorry about the bad resolution of this video... I'm still learning how to edit Insta360 footage! I'll get better... Anyone got any tips?

How have you mounted your insta360? I also run one but there is very limited spots to mount on the 848 so normally clamp mine to the rear subframe

I do find it rather fascinating watching you learn and listening to your commentary. I have spent little time on sport bikes, mostly riding Goldwings since the 80's, but always amazed by the ability of track riders. Thanks. Cool!

Jim measured surface temp at 70+ degrees, it was farkin hot! Been following you for a while now, you're doing a kick arse job and making some significant improvements, well done!

I still plan to register the HZ with it's (likely) original 202 six cylinder, before I replace it with the 308 I'm currently rebuilding. It's a groovy little motor and I want the chance to experience it before the V8. These Holden 202's seem bulletproof... but this one might be destined to be time-capsuled in a glass coffee table... 😱

Good job Stacey. So much enjoyment watching your videos. I'll show you some more little points on my next visit. Gary

I'm curious who else out there also does regular practice when out riding? Some of my rides are deliberate practice, like this one is, but just about every ride there is one thing I'll choose to work on, if only for just part of the ride. Is this common? Should we all do it? What are your thoughts and experiences?

Nice scenery to ride in! I always ride better when I can stay loose and flow. When I tense up I just can't flow a corner. One of my best was an evening ride coming back home on a road I'd never ridden. Somehow I just rode and didn't really think about it and took some of the nicest corners I've ever done. I hope I can replicate that again, more just doing and not so much thinking. When I think I'm tense, there's gotta be a way to get past that. Like you said, probably more practice. 🙂

UPDATE: After a comment below from @jimwilliamson9929 (thanks), about potential errors in measuring the crankshaft end float with a dial indicator mounted to the engine stand, I set it up again on the front of the block, and measured end float again. This time, with three measurements, I consistently got just under 0.003" of end float. So it's a little bit different, but still good!

9:33 yea I've seen that before when switching over from head bolts to studs. All I can say is since you hand tighten the stud make sure thier is no oil or fluid in the hole so it doesn't hydro lock making you think it's hand tight where's thiers fluid trapped and making it tight where you got another turn or 2 left to go. Or in that case someone has re threaded the hole and when that happens they used metic over standard or a fraction to make it bite.

Great work , 1 thing i would of done was as im not sure if you did or not is snugg the rear cap and before you torque it is to tap the crank forward and backwards with a hammer to seat the thrust bearing so you can get a accurate measurement for thrust clearence . Great video to watch .

i have the exact same wear pattern on my diabolo rosso 3 on a 950 supersport. (front round trailing sharp) After watching your video i went to a suspension spezialist - he told me that i should not worry so much about the wear pattern, i should worry about tire pressure and check it regulary with warm tires 2.5 front 2.3 back tire. he adjusted my suspension - after that new bike 😀 thanks for all your videos !

Very helpful. Many thanks.

Great stuff, that workshop looks awesome. Too hot to be in my garage/shed at the moment.

Good work Stace. great to see your husband and dad helping. hope it goes well for you.

Nice work though I am concerned. You need to put the dial indicator magnetic base on the block sump face, not the engine stand to get an accurate end float measurement. That 0.002” isn’t accurate as it could be flex between the engine stand and engine block. To be safe but indicator on the block and check again.

Been hanging for this. Happy new year.

Did you know if your mate gets ducati to activate the heated grips function then the Oxford heated grips can be wired into the factory wiring and work no problem without having to have the aftermarket controller.

Have you considered another chain, just grabbing at straws. Do you have +.002 cam bearings, after a main tunnel rebore it brings the crank closer to the cam, like I said just grabbing at straws.