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Pretty cool right? Glazing is great for things like gems and armor.

That makes sense, Winton is W&N's student/studio line of paints so they're cheaper with fillers. I prefer Micheal Harding's Vine Black (mars black PBk11) because it's fairly neutral out of the tube, semi-transparent, and tinting is more manageable than Ivory Black. This really comes into play when doing grisaille paintings if titanium white is used. Both T. White and Ivory Black have cool biases out of the tube.

Princeton catalyst blade. Something between a brush and a palette knife. Great if you want to do impasto work.

@@leedavis-art that looks really cool, I’m gonna pick one up in the prime day sale if I can. Thanks!

That's great to hear! Oh yes, it is a very strong pigment, but it's my go-to for toning canvases unless I'm working on an unusual effect. Hope you enjoy it!

@@leedavis-art Thanks Lee! BTW, have you tried Michael Harding qinacrodrone gold? I say a Vickey Norman video on it and it looks quite interesting but I haven't gotten it yet. If you have it, I am curious of your opinion.

@@pjjmsn I do have it and it's a really lovely topaz color in a glaze. Perfect if you were to do something like a grisaille gemstone. Even though it appears earthtone out of the tube it's pretty high in tint strength and saturation, being a mixture of PY150, PR209, and PV19. I've not found a use case for it in my current work yet. Maybe in the future though!

@@leedavis-art Thanks for your perspective Lee! Interesting. I wasn't aware that it was a mix of 3 pigments. It is also true with me that some paints fit right in with what I am doing and get used over and over again, while others never get used because when I try, they don't work in terms of harmonizing with the others. Some paints, although beautiful colors seem to be oddballs that don't play well with others. Maybe this is one of those. I wonder if that happens more with paints that are mixtures. Although I do have some mixtures that work well. I might pick it up in the future out of curiosity and to add to my collection which is fun, in and of itself.

@@pjjmsn Most times - less is more! I have hundreds of tubes collected over the years but my main workhorse palette is the "tried and true split-primary". It's also easy to remix a pile when you only have 6 colors to work from (plus black and white). I have a limited skin tone and sea/landscape palette as well, but they complement the 6 colors and I bust them out only when the project calls for it.

Cadmium Yellow Light usually falls between the Cad Lemon and the Cad Medium. But every manufacturer has slight variations of what their cadmium lines hue actually are. So give them a test. 👍

Oh yeah, T.White is very strong and cool and uniformly shows off the tint characteristics between the various hues. You can buy or mix your own warm white with a little bit of transparent yellow oxide (PY43) I don't even put zinc in my video on comparing whites due to manufacturers deprecating it. I really like lead white but it's expensive and I only use it for specific applications where I want the strongest paint bond possible for future layering.

Depends on the pigment/mix. True Naples yellow (PY41) is opaque but pricey. Other manufacturers offer a Naples yellow hue, like W&N (PBr24) are also opaque. Rose pale blush, the W&N version anyway, is a mix (PW4, PY42, PV19) and is opaque as well. Zinc white (PW4) is no longer recommended in artist oil paints for longevity due to delamination and cracking. Consider Gamblin's Naples Orange (PW6, PY43, PR188) they use titanium white (PW6). Or you can mix your own with via the demo in this video. Cheers!

@@leedavis-art Ok grazie!

Glad it was helpful! Thanks!

Some pigments can feel more gritty than others. For instance, Raw Umbers can have this gritty behavior. However, I just tested my Chromium Oxide Green in Micheal Harding and an older tube of Williamsburg (and for good measure my Golden Acrylic version), and none of these I would call "gritty". It may be the brand or quality of paint you're using?

Sure, you could pick up a jar of zinc oxide pigment and grind it with your desired medium (oil, acrylic, etc) like any other pigment. It’s just known to delaminate/crack prematurely in oil.

Haha, well there ya go!

OoOoh 😮 Haha, a different way to make a mess! Finesse is definitely warranted when tubing right?!? 😅

It really is! Glad you enjoyed the video.

Thanks! Glad you enjoyed the demo.

It really has more to do with mineral vs modern pigments. Gamblin goes into great detail about the differences on their blog here: gamblincolors.com/mineral-modern-colors/

@@leedavis-artThanks Lee, an excellent read. Quite interesting! It is great that we can have the benefit of having both pigment groups. A couple of things I noticed was that titanium white was not listed in either category, I assume because white is not a color? But given the way it behaves I assume it is mineral. The other thing that suprised me is that synthetic transparent red oxide is a mineral pigment that to me behaves somewhat like a modern one. I mix it with pthalo green for lanscapes, but recently switched to viridian and have been getting better results. I want to compliment you again on your excellent videos which I binge watched yesterday.

Thank you! 😊 I'm happy to hear you've found these videos useful. White and black make tints and shades respectively for all colors, so that might be why they're not included. Synthetic transparent red oxide is PR101, but PR101 can be various brownish yellow to orange to red shades with yellow to violet undertones. And it can be transparent or opaque! It all depends on the manufacturing process and particle size. Either way, it's usually very high tinting. You can check the properties of pigments here: www.artiscreation.com/Color_of_Art.html

Oh, I can see why. Black and yellow make some very nice olive-green colors that are common in nature. It's a bit too muted for my tastes, so I prefer Cobalt or ultramarine blues with a warm yellow, like Indian or diarylide yellow (PY83) or deep or golden cadmium (PY35). Then move it towards orange or purple with my warm or cool red.

@@leedavis-artYes, her lanscapes are very subtle. I also couldn't understand how mars black could produce greens distinguishable from ivory black. But I have tried the rest of her palette and it harmonizes great together so I want to give this a shot too. One of my biggest problems is getiing the painting to properly harmonize in color like the best paintings do. I have never heard of golden cadmium. I will look it up.Thanks.

Those phthalos are powerful aren’t they! Stark contrast to the Tera verde! 🤣

Thanks! Depends on the manufacturer, they like getting creative with their color names. :) But if you look on the tube or on their website you’ll want to look for pigment green 36 (PG36) for the yellow shade and pigment green 7 (PG7) for the blue shade.

@@leedavis-artThanks Lee! I had bought a small tube of Rembrandt "phthalo geen yellow" PG36, a couple of years ago but never ended up using any of it because I just thought it was kind of like a sap green. I often mix normal phthalo green with transparent oxicide red which works well for my landscapes, so I just stuck with that. I also have Winton emerald green hue which I thought was interesting and used some of it in seascapes, which I am guessing now is PG36, and not the deadly stuff :). But thanks to your video I can see now that PG 36 is a very interesting color which I plan to explore.

Very helpful. Greens can be very tricky for me as a beginner.

Pretty neat right? 🤩

@@leedavis-art yeah!

Right? Pretty cool the things we can do with glazing.

It's not necessarily my favorite either, but if you're not fond of that example I go through many more examples in the video 👍

Awesome! Glad you found the video helpful. 🙌

I know right?!? Daniel Smith made some unique colors I really enjoyed.

This is a 16 sec promo. 😉 Check out the full videos on picking a color here: ua-cam.com/play/PLn0LkQLKOtIUYHyDpv2ZG3szNW9NDD2DJ.html Cheers!

Glazing is simply the technique of applying transparent paint over dried opaque paints. You can get as subtle or extreme as you like. For instance, you could add a slight blush to the cheeks on the face of a model or figure. Or, you could change a ruby gemstone to an emerald. It's all an artistic choice utilizing the technique! 😉

I assume these are acrylic

Correct! The mediums are different, but the *pigment* in the mediums are the same. These are all oils but the properties (transparency and tint) will be very similar in acrylic. 👍

Very nice! Those will produce very natural colors when mixed.

This one is by Gamblin Oils. Comes in both small and big tubes … and maybe even cans?🤔 It’s one of my favorites for sure.

@@leedavis-art thanks! Had a feeling it was probably Gamblin!

@@JesseRichardsfilm absolutely! It’s a convenience tube so you could make it yourself if you wanted to with PY43 and PY83. I actually do that when I’m painting with my acrylics 😂

Glad you found it helpful! 😃👍

Well, thank you! 😃

Thanks! 😊 Glad you enjoyed it!

Thanks, glad you found the demo helpful! Oh very much agree! There's some wonderful FX that just can't quite be done effectively with wet into wet painting, especially with the dry time of acrylics.

Thanks! I’ll post some photos and videos after the opening on Friday. 👍

Oh yeah, definitely read the details on those paint tubes! Especially the pigment numbers. Those can vary wildly too on the same "color name". I had bought the cobalt violet on a fire sale when a store was discontinuing selling a few brands they wanted to carry. I got it to give it a whirl, but it's not my go-to either. It grays too quickly in tints for me, but I can see the allure.

Haha, yeah the phthalos are *extremely* potent in their tint strength! I mostly paint surreally myself and don't mind the saturation. Still, I toss in a little cad. red light usually! But when painting more representationally I move to cobalt blue and chromium oxide green. I like their mid-values and how they grey up nicely.

You're very welcome! Happy you found this video helpful. 🙂

Glad you found the video useful, cheers!

😎👍

It really is a nice blue 👍

I’m glad you found it useful! 😊

Oh no worries, your english is fine. 👍 Consistency of Gamblin PY83? I'd say it's fairly middle of the road viscosity, not to thick not too creamy. It's not gritty at all. Sorta like a cool butter. The only oil paint I've used that is consistently "fluid"-ish out of the tube in viscosity is Vasari (www.vasaricolors.com) . They're *really* nice quality, but pricey 💰. I find with most oil paint from reputable manufacturers I don't need to mess with the recipe too much in most cases. Sometimes the tube will get a hole it it and then it will start to dry out your paint. However, if a paint is too thick for my taste I'll get an eye-dropper of linseed oil or other medium and mix in one or two drops. Easy peasy!

@@leedavis-art hummmm thanks helpful to know Lee , thanks. I think ill buy a small tube of the py83 and give it a try, then. I also use some walnut oil as medium , just a little bit makes the paint loose. I tend to prefer looser out of the tube just for convenience sake,but as you said, cant go wrong with good reputable brands 👍👍

Sure thing 👍 Fortunately PY83 a relatively inexpensive paint. Definitely Give it a try. If it turns out it's too strong of a color out of the tube you can always bump up the saturation of other yellows with it. It's a strong tinting pigment.

@@leedavis-art great, yeah, i ll give it a try. The main goal for py83 is to help me make natural dark greens / modulate between dark green, dark yellow and dark orange, and for that i was using sap green with perylene red, but the Gamblins sap green had that weird tendecy i explained, so ill try to substitute it for py83 , which feels more helpful overal

@@renatobfa I really like PY83 for greens. Fwiw, my favorite premade "sap green" tubes are *Utrecht Prussian Green* (PB27+PY150) in oil and W&N *Perm Sap Green* (PY83+PB15:3+PBk9) in acrylic. Oh, I bet PB27 and PY83 would make a really nice green. I'll have to play with that sometime.

You're right! Artists have no shortage of choice for tools, mediums, and subjects. It can get overwhelming pretty quick. Having a way to organize can be beneficial. Happy to hear you found the video useful, cheers!

I’m sure they’d mix some really nice shadow colors. Especially if layering with the more transparent purples.

Thanks! 😃 Glad you found the video helpful!

Absolutely! Hope you found it helpful, cheers!

Oh that’s great! Experiment as much as you can, learn as much as you can. That’s the *best* thing about being an artist is you never stop leveling up ⬆️ 😎👍

Thank ya! 😃 Cheers!

Thanks! 🙌 Cheers!

Oh please don't confuse this for a color theory video - it most definitely isn't 😅! The video is specifically on basic glazing techniques for oil and acrylic painters. While yes I used a color wheel to choose colors for my method-of-choice and brevity, truthfully any assortment of hues may work to show different effects one can do with glazing. Artists certainly should choose their own method of picking colors in their studies when exploring a pigment for glazing and mixing. Hope that helps clear things up, cheers!

@@leedavis-art I know it’s a glazing video, it’s just that when you say “triadic color scheme” one expects the subject, in this case these jewels, to have the triad albeit a dominant and two subordinate colors. It would make for an interesting display of glazing over a jewel that is multicolored. I was just wondering why you called them that if you just decided to choose one color (it is possible you used the rest to create the various tones and desaturate the main color per jewel of course).

@@leedavis-art By the way don’t mistake my comment as negative criticism, it’s a good video, I was just puzzled over the terms used and why because the results weren’t evident to the structured color schemes.

@@Hadoken. Thanks, no worries at all! I'll make sure to be clearer on terminology in future videos. And you're not wrong that a gem could be glazed into a full triadic color scheme. In this case a monochromatic grey gem glazed with the phthalo green and say … diox purple and transparent orange. It *would* make for a really great gemstone actually. 🤔 Cheers!