Відео

ua-cam.com/video/7Dw_GJJARmA/v-deo.html ua-cam.com/video/TXsNEIa-iHI/v-deo.htmlsi=bWlQw0i2T5hScufU

Maaring may isyu sa lubrication. Pwedeng hi di sapat ang engine oil o kaya yung oil ay hindi umaabot ng camshaft, or worn piston…

Thanks. No, it is ”taillight” warning. Primary function is to warn tailight is not working and secondary function is to indicate there might be wiring issue. My taillight is working…and all lights actually, but there is some minor wiring issue. Could be just because rear turnsignals have slightly smaller bulbs than original, so resistance is slightly off.

@@jonibeebeesplaytime When I was reading your comment I thought of turn signal stuff because that's how Honda works. I have been working on Honda cars since the 90's. When that light is on it has something to do with the lighting on the vehicle. Cool Ride. I have my 83 running really nice after I did a carb rebuild and other detail issues. Now I need front strut seals and I want to put a new clutch in. It has 23,000 miles on it and something does not seam right about the clutch. Cheers.

Yes, 225/50 R18. Stock size here. Goodyear Ultragrip Ice 2 tires. Wheels/rims are official Honda wheels (but not original equipment wheels), made by Speedline

4-1-2. 4 into power chamber into 2 slash cuts

@@jonibeebeesplaytime no i meen 4 cylinders into 4 exhausts?because you also wrote 1

4 (headers) into 1 (collector box) into 2 (silencers/mufflers). Collector box called Power Chamber which has internal piping.

These Honda’s have no transmission. Engine is mostly generator, while electric motor drive wheels. Engine drives wheels directly without transmission on certain speeds. Idea is to run engine only on optimum load conditions. I haven’t got any issues and haven’t heard anyone had any issues.

Yes, it did came with Primacy 4 tires. Could come with different tires in other countries.

Nice road trip. Yeah, I got same at summer if I drive below 100km/h. Maybe ”this drive overall” consumption is above 5 l/100km/h on highway, but usually comes below 5 l/100 km after exiting highway…so end of trip overall will be just under 5 liters / 100km. Long term overall consumption I have is between 5.4 and 5.6 l/100km. Recently I only drove short distance (few km) to store or highway 100-120 km/h…so I’m very pleased with cunaumption I’m getting.

Probably a old video... I hope! 😝

Nein, noch nicht. Nach zwei jahren vielleicht…

Hello Fransesco, That is quite steep. It can go whole hill on EV, lower speed and decent amount of battery left…but there is no guarantee it will use only EV. It is more likely to use only EV if there is not sudden acceleration…and you can also put off air con and whole blower which helps it stay in EV… But I think it rarely is that loud few meters away when engine is on. On full acceleration, it can be bit loud… Of course sometimes engine uses higher revs on steep hill, even on lower speeds / low acceleration…but it more low load high revving…shouldnt be very loud few meters away. If I can find good place to film external sound like that, I try to film it. But no promises, because it is difficult to find this kind of location for me…

If you crawl at lets say 10-15km/h without sudden acceleration (instant pushing on the throttle, i strongly recommend using ECO mode for this since it loosens the throttle pedal to be more forgiving) it should climb on battery only without issues. 30meters isn't long as long as you have at least 50% battery left . As for consideration of buying it. It's a beautiful car and so well made You will love it

@@jonibeebeesplaytime Hello Joni, Thank you very much for your kind and helpful response and for your willingness to look for a steep climb in your beautiful Finland. I once drove from Tornio to Kivilompolo to go to the North Cape. Beautiful memories of Sweden, Finland and Norway. It was July, so I didn't see all that white snow that I see in many of your videos. Returning to the beloved engines, undecided whether to make the "final step" to fully electric, I like the feeling of driving electric with a combustion engine that works like a generator (with the exception of the clutch that engages in certain situations in the HRV). Nissan's E-Power system would be my favorite, but I would stay away from direct injections, turbos and the worst crankshaft with mechanisms to vary the compression ratio. Mazda MX 30 R-ev would be another option conceptually, but I don't have much confidence in the Wankel's reliability. Thanks again for your videos which, together with POVs, are the best for understanding the real functioning of a car, instead of the dozens of videos on UA-cam which are simply "advertisements". Greetings from Italy. Francesco

@@TheZaxes-md8zb Hello TheZaxes, Thanks to you too for your reply and your appreciated suggestions. Greetings

I have owned an HRV in advance trim for 8 months and it is fantastic. Greetings from the Canary Islands (Spain), where we rarely see snow

There are many models, Magnas, Sabres, Interceptors with many engine sizes…most are really realiable if looked after at least decently. ’82 & ’83 models, especially 750 Interceptor had some issues…most models ’84 year model got some fixes (cam/valve train clerance fixes, but not yet line bored cams) and ’86 models got line bored cams. VF1000R had even gear driven cams. And of course (I think all) VFR’s (750’s and 400cc) before ’98 year model had gear driven cams. My VF500F Interceptor ’84 has already done 83700km without any rebuild and still going strong. I just filmed acceleration test on it and revved it to 12 000 revs 😅. I dont rev to 12 000 that often, even I think it can handle it…but most important I think is to not rev too much on cold engine and also not keep revs too low after start up and cold engine…and actually never longer times, even with warm engine. Early VF’s have good enough oil flow if revs are not too low (shouldnt be below 3500 revs for longer time, especially if there is engine load)(maybe good rule of thump is to keep at least 1/3 of max revs as minimum and shouldnt be over 2/3 of max revs for extended time 🤔)…quite common with many early 80’s motorcycles. Good luck on your search!

Yes, we are. When you film and only sound is from driving…what volume level should you use when watching it…what is loud? You can record sound, but there is no universal correct sound level…even db doesent mean how loud it appears to be. For e.g. Tom Scott made good video about it. I tried to always include sounds like turn signal indication sound and sliding hand on steering wheel to give some comparison, but it’s not perfect either since youtube also auto adjusts sound levels. I have done a lot of testing with this and badically all the sound I have filmed is there when I focus listening it while driving…but if I dont focus on it, I dont really hear it…or I dont notice it at least. I test drove BMW i4 M50 on autumn, but couldnt film it. To the ear, it sounded similar to HR-V, maybe slightly less loud on higher speeds…but I was surprised it was not much quieter than HR-V. Of course it is difficult to make quiet EV, engine doesnt mask any wheel or wind noise… Hopefully I can film more cars in future to give better comparison. I had some oppertunity before to test new CR-V and ZR-V, but couldnt because of work situation (busy from winter to summer and then just before summer…over month of work without any freetime, just varely time to eat, take shower and sleep 😅)

Mic is inside of closed bonnet, of course it will be loud 😅

There is not much grip, so it wants to slide all the time…but it was quite easy to feel the grip and control slide

@@jonibeebeesplaytime 👍👍👍

How is hard braking in the snow..will it stop or slide ??? I live in the UK, and have one of these cars, and I love it, but not been out in snow and ice yet .

I averaged 5.5 liters per 100km/h. I drove a lot highway last winter, which increased average comsumption a bit…

@@jonibeebeesplaytime Thank you. That's great numbers. 🙂 I got 5.6 on my first fuel tank, in the summer. 😂 I also drive a lot of highway, 110 km/h.

Probably Continental Viking Contact 7…or good studd tires

Goodyear Ultragrip Ice 2, 225/50 R18

Gasket sets. Unfortunately this was advertised to fit ’84 version 32mm keihin but it was for later 30mm keihin…luckily all other than ”between airbox and carb ”D” shape o-ring was same and fit well. Usually first time doesnt hold gas, needs readjusting some gasket and resetting float heights to get it right…at least for me 😅 🤞

@@jonibeebeesplaytime let me know if you’d like some measurements for those. I took some before installing mine 🤘🏽

Yes, correct...almost 84 000km now.

@@jonibeebeesplaytime That's awesome, way too many of these bikes didn't make it past 10k miles because of poor maintenance. I'm on my second engine, the original dropped a valve at 13k miles. Current engine has about 29k miles on it and runs like new. I put all new valves and springs in this one about 9k miles ago when I installed it. I bought my bike new back in 1984 and I'm STILL riding it. Best of luck to you.

@@jrodrims27new rods and springs?!? That is SO exciting! Any chance you can share part numbers/sources? I want to keep my first bike running forever as long as possible. I’m new to motorcycles but I had so much fun cleaning and replacing orings on this v4…now I’m hooked. Brake lines and tires are in the mail!

No choise, some previous owner had already changed it