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I actually love revving that m130 up there. Its a great engine! That axle change would make a nice difference. My buddy changed his pagoda rear end for a 4.5 rear. All the best Cheers John.

On this 4.5 when I removed the subframe it had a heavily corroded bolt too. Luckily it didn't snap. This car came from Colorado so may have been exposed to a lot of moisture. Cheers John.

I'm assuming your talking about the upper castle washer to adjust castor angle? If its the wrong way round for instance it just won't engage in the notch and no adjustment can be made. As long as you're not drastically out I wouldn't worry about it. Because to correct it is a big job to switch it around. Take the wheel off and see if the upper trunion is roughly in the center of the control arm frame and you'll be fine. Cheers John.

Thank you. Glad you like it. Personally I have not rebuilt one myself. Though it's something I have to look at on my 4.5. Its had a minor leak for a while. I have heard of a shop in Las Vegas that rebuilds them. Around $600. You have to send your core unit. Cheers John 🍻

Thanks Glenn! I'm happy with it. Snapping those bolts is a real pain to correct after the fact for sure. Cheers from California!! John.

Different set up Harry. But we do need to do those subframe plates sometime. Hope to see you again soon. Good luck with the new place. Cheers John 🍻

Its great stuff. As I use my 4.5 all years as a daily it helps keep corrosion out. I'm planning on getting one of those bigger pump probes to inject it into the cavity's and rockers etc. You should check out a channel called repair geek. He puts surface shield through its paces in the east area of the states where they use salt. It does very well. Cheers John.

Thanks Juan! Cheers John

If you were to lock it out completely it would defeat the purpose of the rubber mount. essentially locking it all together and not providing and shock absorbing effect. Thanks for your comment. Cheers John.

Are you referring to the fuel injection pump? There is a notch cut into the drive gear teeth which should be aligned with one on the body.. Now for the 6 cylinder I'm not 100% sure. But on the 6.3, once that notch is aligned the egine is set to 60 degrees atdc. There is a 60 degree notch on the harmonic balancer. I'll take a look at my book and see if I can find more details for the six and get back to you. Cheers John 🍻

@mercedesmaintenance.6339 all thanks and appreciation, waiting for your reply

All thanks and appreciation, waiting for your reply

@aymanhabib5123 You're welcome. My email is jwright89@sbcglobal.net send me yours and I'll send some pictures from the service manual. Cheers John 🍻

Thank you. I appreciate your comment. All the best cheers John.

Glad you think so. Hopefully it can help someone make a good decision. Thank you for your comment. Cheers John

Hello there from California!! Cheers John.

Its a great stand and very sturdy with the splayed leg design. But there is that issue. Some have suggested backing it in. But with my large engine that just would not work. Cheers John

@mercedesmaintenance.6339 it's design is based on the similar capacity 1 ton engine crane frame is the problem really (probably simplified the manufacturing of a new size at the time). Looking at getting a stand to do 1 specific job on a tractor gearbox for now, but I'm leaning toward a 2k pound/900kg as I could possibly hang cast iron tractor engines off it in the future

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Thank you Stuart!! Hats off to you being a VW tech:) My Wifes Tiguan has given me reason to jump off a cliff occasionally:) Very glad you're enjoying the Videos. Cheers John.

Thanks, John I forgot to mention I'm 68 soon to be 69 which should make you feel really young! I'm working with 20 and 30-year-olds but there's a lot of camaraderie and teamwork and we all share the idea that no one knows everything about everything and we learn every day. Your videos add so much to my confidence to tackle things I normally would be afraid to do and I know it takes a lot of work to produce what you do to film these! Double the work for you but helping a lot of us so again thanks!​@@mercedesmaintenance.6339

Thank you. It's a ton of Work, but I do get a ton of enjoyment from the challenge. All the best Cheers John.

Hope it works for you. There's a lot of clean up afterwards but normally it will shift sticking pistons. Cheers John.

No worries mate. I appreciate any tips. I have treated some of the earlier areas with acid etch, which is similar to what your describing. Zinc phosfate coating. Totally agree, its a good idea as these projects go on a long time. My plan is to get the main floor welded up, then treat with epoxy primer before moving to the rear. Once all done a good scuff and a final epoxy coat before underside treatment/paint etc. This rocker will get treated on the inside before closing in with the outer rocker panel. Always happy to hear from viewers. Cheers John 🍻

Thank you!!

Permatex is great stuff to treat good structure thats just got a little surface rust. Cheers John 🍻

Happy to hear the videos help. It's nice to know the order of things. Is yours a 6.3, 3.5 or 4,5? Are you doing the work? Cheers John 🍻

Not at this time, but you can contact me at jwright89@sbcglobal.net we can have a chat. Cheers John 🍻

@@mercedesmaintenance.6339 thank man i sent an email

My pleasure. Cheers John 🍻

I'm sure it will be fine, but its a good preventative measure. Let me know how they look. Cheers John 🍻

He'll be happy about that.

You're right. I got in the habit of doing it in case I need to remove rockers if I get a stiff adjuster nut. Then I can fit a socket. Cheers john.

Thank you. Cheers John.

Hi. I think that's a good approach. I found that the circular wire brush on an angle grinder was able to clean that underseal back very easily and quickly. Make sure to use good eye protection. Once your down to bare steel, sealing it with a rust encapsulater would be fine. You could also treat the area first with a chemical treatment, permatex has a good one. It chemically treats the rust. Then to blend it in you could shoot fresh undercoating over that. It's those dry flaky areas you want to check carefully. Hope this helps. Good luck. Cheers John.

The one with the Eagle is German Automobile Club. The other with multiple flags represents 10 Cities in Germany. Cheers John 🍻

I had to make that inner rocker section as they're not available. The outer rockers can be found but only 18 gauge. That's why I'm going to be using one from a scrap w108. Cheers John

Is this when driving, or just sitting parked?

​@@mercedesmaintenance.6339This is while parked

@@mercedesmaintenance.6339 when it's parked is when I notice it. It could also be while driving but I'm not sure.

@@izytron Hi. I would start at the front. Water can get in there and run to the rear. Remove under fender splash guards, 4x 10mm bolts easy. That area can get clogged with debris and block drain areas. Water can catch onto fan motor housing and wick in. Also check area when hood is up in the corners near the hinge, check that area. Check carpet up from the floor on the inner rocker. Is that wet? if not it would indicate water is coming from below when driving. Remove carpets and check for rust etc Also check condition of front and rear window seals. If water gets past those it can find its way to the floor. Let me know what you find out Cheers john.

Is it the inner rocker or outer? The outer one would be easier to repair. It all depends on the extent of the damage. The w108 has a fairly low value so its something to think about. You can always email me and we can chat further. jwright89@sbcglobal.net Cheers John 🍻

Hi Dan. This engine is the m100. I don't know for sure. But I would say its most likely the same size thread. Cheers John 🍻

Thank you! Cheers!

Hi Mark. No it's not been started yet. After doing the leak down test it showed a massive leak on piston #5. So I tore the engine completely down for a rebuild. #5 was disintegrating due to fuel dilution. I'm glad I didn't try to start it. It would have done more damage. It's had new main and rod Bearings, pistons , rings, rods sized, new small end bushings, re bored to 103.75mm, crank re balanced, block magna fluxed and decked, injection pump rebuilt, injectors cleaned etc etc. Next up heads need valve guides and seals, valves checked and honed/lapped, decked. The list goes on. Plus there's still lots of body work to do. Lets just say, It's a good sized Job. :) Cheers John.

It's going great. Once you get your teeth into it, it's not too bad. Cheers John

You're welcome. Glad it helped. The pump has been on for at least 3 months now, running great. Cheers John.

UK was the same. Rust was a major killer of the Classics. Even though this underside is a little bad (English understatement:) the upper main body is straight as an arrow and rust free. I built the inner rocker this weekend. Lots of fun!! Hopefully start welding that in soon. Hope you're doing well Oliver. Cheers John.

Floor pans themselves are 18 gauge, as is most of the bodywork. Structural sections, rockers etc are all 16 gauge. Cheers John

Just fabtastic

Thank you. Glad you're enjoying it. Cheers John.

Thank you Peter! The car spent its early years in Europe before coming state side. It may have contracted a lot of the rust there. Over the years its had some repairs done (not very well). The place where I found it was also not ideal. Because its an air suspension car it sat low for many years after it developed engine trouble. They had it parked in the forest sitting in long grass which certainly didn't help matters. My goal is to bring it back to as close to original condition as possible. If I hadn't bought it, it would still be sitting there today. The repairs are extensive, but it's a fun pastime to save this old timer. Cheers John.

I thought it was a nice detail to ad the numbers. Cheers John.

@@mercedesmaintenance.6339 definitely. Once you know the cylinder numbers, you can’t go wrong.

Hi Mark. It's actually a Bremi cap with a Bosch rotor arm. I'm very impressed with the quality, Made in Germany. I think it's the same cap that Kent at Mercedessource sells. Hope all is well with you. Cheers John.

Thanks Tony!! Hope all is well with you. Cheers John 🍻

I've been distracted this past month. I'm back at it again and hope to make some headway. Cheers John 🍻

Its a long road for sure. But fun too. Better than TV . 😄

You're welcome. If you're referring to the inside surfaces of the caliper. Try rotating them periodically during the plating. That way it gives even coverage. I'm assuming you have two zinc plates in the bath? Also it's very important to get them as clean as possible also a good soak in the degrease bath. Hope this helps. Cheers John.

Thank you. I'm very glad I did this mod, much safer to load and unload. Cheers John.