Відео

Thanks!

Your time is coming, young padawan.

@@JonP-j6o I usually clean them and put a little axle grease around the track to prevent rust. Water that gets past the felts can collect on the tracks along with condensation and over time even the galvanization corrodes. I like to at least try to prevent that, even though the nylon rollers will move it around and displace the grease, at least the less used sections stay protected. I usually don’t pull the glass out unless I have to, as it’s just one more step and not really necessary unless the track is damaged. I have shown that on other square body videos.

Thank you so much!!!!

@@Chuck_S there is also a video of that on our channel. It is a similar process.

In this case it wasn’t anything special, just screen shots from .pdf manuals.

@@wrenchwranglers thanks, was just wondering how you had a picture of that plug.

I would have leaned toward mice, and it could have very well been, except I lean toward squirrels because of where it was parked, and the original owner told me he figured squirrels because he saw them. Other than that, yes I would have said mice also.

@@anthnmnt it was an option, I believe. They had them earlier, but unless the option was selected for the build process it won’t have the threaded inserts. That would be something you have to add.

@@wrenchwranglers thanks. I looked at the option sheet for 86 and didn’t see it there. I had a 72 c20 truck and it only had lap belts. However there was a thread insert for A three point belt already pre is installed. Wasn’t sure if it was the same way with the suburbans. I’ll probably pull the trim off to see if I can feel around for the thread inserts.

@@anthnmntthe belts are sort of different because of the federal regulations; there was implementation around 72-73 requiring shoulder belts in the front and so at some point they started adding the threads for those, but the actual belts didn’t catch up until later. I assume they probably exhausted their supply chain of lap belts before the full transition. Since the grab handles are not federally mandated those inserts should only be there if the RPO was specified for them.

@@wrenchwranglersmakes sense. Thanks for the knowledge.

@@wrenchwranglersI did some looking and there seems to be two bolts about ten inches apart above the passenger side door. I would assume for the grab handle. :)

It’s been so long that I honestly don’t remember, sorry. The old one was worn so I doubt it would have been a good reference and I never measured the new one.

I need to revise the whole front lighting. For a standard tractor, these light positions and styles work ok. But with the loader I’m constantly damaging them or snagging them. At some point I will be doing a light revision. I’d like to mount some work lights on the cab since I’ve added it.

The brake bands are accessed through a cover on top of each axle. I was going to do a video on brakes, however the bolts that hold my covers on are rusted solid and require some in depth work to extract. Maybe down the road, but right now it’s a very long project in my case.

They work well for a few uses for sure…. Beyond that they start to deteriorate. If you go slow and careful and take care of them they do last longer, but defects like the thread strength are hard to work around long term

I never get that lucky….. Used enough luck for a years worth of projects on this one lol

@@dougstrucksnstuff you can plug the ratio adapter inline anywhere between two points, except it can’t go right on the back of the speedometer. Between any other cables or right into the trans is fine. Or you could use a direct cable with no adapter and pull the gears out of the trans for the speedometer takeoff and change them, but that’s a little more involved.

Thanks for watching! There’s more information about the 5th gen El Camino platform on our website here: www.tradecraftspecialties.com/5thGenElky

@@Shakan_not_Stirred hey dude just bought my grandpas 84 today!

Nice bro. Still waiting for the estate stuff to clear up on mine but I’ve been driving out that way working on it. No one knows how long it sat, but Ive found a brand new 383 stroker and aftermarket shocks and a few other goodies on it. Started the other day with some fresh gas but won’t stay at idle. Next step I think is take off and clean the carb. I grew up with in imports so old school sbc is completely new to me. I hope yours is bringing you as much connection with your grandfather as his is to me

@@JustinHutchinson-p3y GMC to Chevy in the same year is pretty simple…. Pretty much just the grill is different, and the logos. Other than that it’s all the same. A 86 to 66 swap would be pretty involved….. the cab and the mounting points would all be different, and different dimensions as well, as well as body lines between cab/doors and fenders. Possible, but pretty difficult.

That is what the previous mechanics thought also. They were also wrong. Although I find it acceptable to make some initial assumptions for a working hypothesis in a troubleshooting approach, assumptions during actual troubleshooting can result in wasted time and an unhappy customer. People come to me for results, and I try to deliver a data-based and unbiased approach based on knowledge and facts without too many assumptions.

I would definitely go with the original A6 design if you can afford it. It’s a beefier and much more well designed unit. The aluminum units basically sacrifice all the advantages for weight reduction and parts reduction, and have no internal oil pump or separate reservoir. I’m curious how this aluminum unit will hold up. I have seen people like them when new, but haven’t found any long term reviews.

@@wrenchwranglers how much was the aluminum one? I think the new Alma ones can be had for about 500 bucks.

I think this one was about $300-ish

Well…. you can always do what I do….. pretend you know what you’re doing and then do a ton of editing to make it look like expertise lol

Thanks 👍

Thanks! No, I’ve never actually owned a suburban with rear air because it just adds more complications that I need to fix lol…. I’m not sure how different it is. I would guess the headliner goes around the air unit so the shape and trim is different there, probably other than that I would guess it’s similar.

The rear ac cover is what's holding the rear cover up but the rest of the trim is the same. As this guys suburban I've cleaned and painted my interior had the dashboard. Wrapped in vinyl I replaced all of the door hardware pull straps and and the chrome trim for the dashboard. Classic Industries has the arm rest pads.

​@@wrenchwranglersOnly differences in a non ac and a rear ac square body. Is the unit and a cutout of the headliner for the rear unit that's it I replaced mine. With a ABS plastic headliner.

I haven’t seen any for Chevy small blocks but that doesn’t mean they don’t exist. The issue with that is usually radiators work best by putting hot water in the top and cooling as it falls through radiator. This helps work with convection the way the old model T’s worked with no water pump at all. The water naturally wants to move that way so it’s easier to pump it that way. Pumping it backwards and up through the radiator would make the pump work harder for several reasons so it isn’t sound from an engineering standpoint.

I’m trying to decide if that’s a dig because I didn’t use it enough and show it in action, or a compliment because I actually used it….

It's similar to the one he's had for years just slightly different, basically the same. He reviewed it well, explained the product. Him actually using it is besides the point

@@coachgeo, I did go over some of this in the sequel to this video, where I pulled a 4x4 trans and transfer case with this. I ran a roll pin through the handle and I think used a jam nut on the lower end. I pulled the trans and transfer case as one assembly, but if one were pulling just the transfer case I think it would work ok, and at least make sure the neighbors don’t have to put up with a bad smell before emergency services discovers you. As fas as getting in there to the weld, the parts that need to come off to access it don’t really come off. A dremel might fit in there, or a long grinding attachment on a drill. Might take a while, but it could work.

@@wrenchwranglers yes I saw it.... I dont have tooling to put in a roll pin or use the jig nor a saber saw... hence my questions above. Sorry for not being clear on that. drat on those parts not coming off... figured there was method to your madness on why you didn't go that route yourself

@@wrenchwranglers now that I think about it.... will explore, after cutting off the post- just drilling a hole in each corner for bolts and nut/bolt it on. No messing with trying to get that center out. maybe will need thread the holes drilled into the bracket Jack's pad threads into.

@@coachgeo that could work. You’ll lose the ability to spin the top relative to the jack below it, but for lightweight uses that should work ok.

@@wrenchwranglers good point.

@@JoeRocket-sf6qs it is indeed. However if I set it lower it stalls intermittently. I played with it for about half an hour I didn’t show on camera because it would have been even more boring, but in this cheap carb there’s just no way around it apparently.

@@motorcycle_garage yes there is

That is a good point; I neglected to mention that those changes usually are accompanied by a 454 crankshaft. Obviously changing the rod and pistons don’t serve much purpose without that unless the goal is to only lighten the rotating assembly.

Love to see them out and about! Even my old rig gets a lot of comments and thumbs up on a daily basis.

I love the older trucks. Some people don’t like the 94-up rams but I’ve owned a few and driven some for work and they held their own when maintained properly. Keep the old ones on the road!