Відео

You’re very welcome!

I’m in the Edmonton area, Alberta. I sprayed Sikkens autowave for 3 and a half years prior to moving into my current heavy duty shop. I pushed to get a waterborne system for the sake of colour matching on RV’s/motorhomes, and we went with Imperium. It is identical to Sikkens, minus a few of the bells and whistles that the Sikkens mixing bank has (specialty toners for modern colours and the Colorshade plus primer/sealer system which is nice). Sikkens/imperium system has its quirks, but it is a great system if you are familiar with it!

@flyinphil6884 I do fleet repair. Still getting the hang of the mixit software. New to akzo. They could make a few changes to make it alot better. I deal with alot of metallic gray which they are all trouble. I have a sata 5000 hvlp I will give a try. Been using a dv1 and 5500 RP for base. What do you reduce the metallics and solids? The computer has solid at 10% pearl 20 and metallic 25%. When the humidity is low it will sand pile so I go with the data sheet which shows bigger reductions.

@@glen4407 I usually slightly over-reduce my solids (~15%), however I stick around that 25% mark for metallics and pearls most of the time. It is very situation-dependant, but I will sometimes over-reduce up to 40% for my orientation coat with some metallics. You can also “2 gun” it and spray a coat of wet bed (I generally use the 055 correction binder reduced at about 5%) and then spray your blend into that wet bed before it has flashed, this will sometimes help with sand piling. When I was spraying Sikkens, I found the sand piling more common when spraying metallic/pearl reds that had some of the thicker red pearl toners in them.

@@glen4407 also, using a sealer shade “slightly” darker than your actual colour is going to be your friend for most colours (other than yellows and such). Set your phone’s camera to gray scale, and snap a picture of the vehicle. Tint your sealer to that colour of gray or slightly darker and you will get your coverage in 2 coats in most cases. I find most of my sand piling issues were when I was fighting for coverage and putting on 4+ coats of base. Using a tinted sealer certainly helped out when it resulted in less product going in the panel.

@@flyinphil6884 Thanks

On these 49x models, I actually don’t mind the doors staying on. With how far the doors open, there is plenty of access to spray the jambs and inner door shell. However, on some of the older models, removal of the doors is nice for full coverage and a cleaner job.

Thanks man! It was a tough of fun to spray this style of effect. One of the benefits of working on custom motorhomes!

Thank you so much! Coming up on 7 years painting professionally.

Single stages have definitely improved in recent years. On a properly-sprayed solid colour, it can be hard to tell if it is single stage or base/clear. Metallics or pearls I would still always encourage someone to choose base/clear, but decent quality single stage is perfectly fine if someone doesn’t want to “break the bank” with their paint choice.

Hey Sergio! I assume if you staked it down adequately, it “should” be fine. I say “should” because I don’t personally have experience with it, but online I’ve seen many others do it with good results. Theoretically, you could definitely throw a heater in there after you’re done spraying and the fumes have been fully exhausted, though be careful with your heater placement, as I could see a heater melting the booth if it contacts anywhere. I also can’t say how well it would maintain heat, as it is just thin fabric and plastic.

@@flyinphil6884 Thank you for getting back to me so fast. I just watch other videos and yes, it holds if staked good, regarding the heater, I use water base paint and just want it to the booth be a bit over 50 degree . I'll still going to think about this booth. Thank you again.

@ no problem!

Very common for semi frames!

With the imron system, I use a 1.3 RP (o-pattern) Sata 5500 for both base and clear.

Thank you!

Thanks man! Certainly a cool colour. That glass flake isn’t cheap though!

Thanks man!! It’s a vibrant metallic green… it’s really hard to capture some of these colours on camera haha. I agree, though, beautiful colour!

@@Cammoron50 thanks for the kind words!

Thank you so much! I appreciate all the positive feedback.

These definitely won’t stay inflated no matter how well you clamp them up… there are many small air leaks where the stitching is, which isn’t an issue in this application because of how the fan keeps in inflated during use. That being said, I have seen some cool inflatable tents on Instagram and other social media, that are pretty much what you describe. Not sure how they would hold up with a space heater or AC unit, but I think they would suit your needs far better than one of these inflatable booths!

You know, I’m not 100% sure what we charged for these motors. We have done a good number of them for a repeat customer though, so we must be doing something right!

Thank you so much! This one was a ton of fun to paint.

Thank you very much!

I appreciate the feedback, but I'm honestly a little confused by your concerns. 90% of any paintjob is in the prep work leading up to paint. I started spraying in this video at about the 20 minute mark (just past halfway through the video), and did my best to describe prep procedures, the products I used, mixing ratios, flash times, tape techniques, describing spray techniques, explaining how to do the cel shading, etc. There is no exact "formula" on how to cel shade. In the video I mentioned that I simply followed the body lines and edges of the wheels, and then added accent marks, which is exactly what I did. It would be a pretty boring video if I just showed the hour and a half drawing on my wheels with a couple markers haha. I guess from my perspective, the order of operations, prep procedures, application of products, the waiting between coats, etc, are the most important parts of a paintjob like this, and from what I have seen, there is almost no information like that regarding these kind of paintjobs online. I follow a few guys on instagram and tiktok who do exclusively this style of paint work, and they offer absolutely no information about the products they use or how they use those products. I suppose I was trying to fill that void with this video. At the end of the day, I can't teach someone to be "artsy", but I can give someone the tools and knowledge needed to do this kind of paint work. Again, though, thanks for the input from your perspective. Going forward, I will definitely try to see other aspects of the videos I make that may be valuable to my audience.

Nobody was suggesting to do an hour and a half video of drawing on a set of rims. And yes I understand that prep work, base coats and clear coats are all part of any good paint job. However your video is 37 minutes long. You did not start the cell shading\manga style\cartoon style work until 31:13 and finished at 32:35.. so barely over a minute of the actual "artsy" process. There are a million videos on UA-cam on how to do professional paint jobs on cars and rims and so forth. The "artsy" part is what makes it a cartoon style paint job. Nobody suggesting you should have made your video an hour and a half long of just drawing on rims, but the part that you played could have been played in normal speed and it at least would have been a little more detail on what you were doing to make it actually look cartoony. Even 5 to 8 minutes would have been a little more informative. When you look up a how-to video, your trying to get tips, tricks and learn techniques. You want the author to describe what they're doing and why they're doing it. Why are you circling some areas, why are you highlighting this way and so on. Like I said the rims turned out great and the video is good. It's just not really a how-to on the cartoon style artwork. I mean I get this is a very simple cartoon design because it's only two colors.. the base color and the marker color.. whereas a lot of videos I've watched have undertones and shading and stuff like that through out the paint. It was just a little disappointing after 37 minutes realizing there was barely more than a minute of the actual artwork, and to top it off that minute was actually about 7 minutes sped up into one minute. The rest of the video was no different than any other video on painting solid colors. I don't know maybe it's just me. Like I said I've watched a lot of videos tonight an the majority of them, most of the video was the creator doing the "artsy" parts.

Are you talking about a ceramic coating that goes over top and protects existing paint, or a ceramic coating like cerakote? Either way, it could definitely be a viable option!

Cerakote

@@ZakaryaHassan97-ml1ze fibreglass does not require an adhesion promoter or plastic-specific primer.

@flyinphil6884 thanks bro so much

Thank you! That glass flake is just something else, the way it catches the light is insane!

@flyinphil6884 It is just stunning! That's why I had to simplify the graphics just to showcase it more. I can't wait to see the finished product, and thank you for helping on this project!

We give them a light sand blast! For the two-tone aspect, I use single stage black before the single stage yellow. Because I spray within the recoat window for the single stage (usually after waiting over night), I just need to give it a light scuff and not worry too much about the nooks and crannies.

This guy likes to talk!

Thanks dude! Unfortunately there is a lot of bad info floating around online, glad I was able to help you out!

@@thetattedpharmacist3215 thank you so much! This guitar was a ton of fun to paint, and I definitely learned a few things, both from Brad and from all the positive comments! I look forward to painting more guitars in the future.

Hey man! So I use the one pump to inflate the booth, and I just tie the other inlet into a knot. I use my 12 volt extraction fan to suck the fumes out, and the wall filters on the booth essentially become intake filters instead of exhaust filters. In order to keep the booth from becoming too much of a vacuum, there is a small vent in one of the top tubes of the booth that I open when I use the extraction fan. If you watch my latest video (painting a glass flake guitar), I explain a little bit more about the actual use of the setup!

Thank you very much!

@@Miksee48 thank you very much!

Thanks for subbing!

@@MF_XCIII thanks for the suggestion! I tried the 4050 on the second project I tried, and it definitely laid down a bit nicer.

That’s sick dude! I’d eventually like to repaint my car in the same style, it’s just a matter of finding the time!

@@thedude7450 the inflatable booth is definitely a handy piece of equipment to have! Spraying small stuff used to take me the better part of 2-3 hours masking off the garage to prevent overspray from getting on my plethora of junk and car parts lol, now it takes maybe a half hour to get set up. Even automotive paint will need to be wet sanded and buffed if you want a “perfectly” flat finish. Don’t get me wrong, you can certainly get a nice finish “off the gun” without any polishing, but due to the nature of paint and clearcoat, it will never be perfectly flat. Now I see all the posts on Instagram/facebook/tiktok etc where guys say they “spray glass” every time and their paint is perfectly smooth, and that you’re “doing it wrong” if your clearcoat doesn’t lay down perfectly. This is all utter nonsense. I can usually see the orange peel (and it is often bad) in most of those videos, so take all that with a grain of salt haha. You can hide a lot of imperfections on camera as well, trust me, I’m a painter hahaha. Now it it’s possible to minimize your orange peel by changing your technique. I’ve never used a rattle can 2k clear, but one of the most common reasons for a highly textured finish is because the product is being applied too light, and doesn’t go on heavy enough to “flow out”. Doing multiple light coats of clear is going to compound the issue, because more and more texture is added to the finish with every coat. So next time you have a project on the go, set up a piece you can test on at the same time. Try moving a little slower, overlapping a little more, or move a little closer to the panel as you spray. All of these things are going to allow more product to land on the panel, so maybe just change up one variable at a time to see if you like the results.

@@danandratis thanks man! Cheers back from Canada!

I have a question, how do you clean the spray gun after use, so you can use it again with the same result?

@@albertveli thank you!

@@albertveli I have a video on that! ua-cam.com/video/rMndLA8t1rA/v-deo.htmlsi=GNc3zYHSdH9qxVwL

@@flyinphil6884 Great. It does seem like a bit of work though, if you paint 1 tack layer and 2 normal layers with the same paint, do you need to clean the gun like this between each layer?

Sorry, I guess I should have clarified that more in the video! You clean your gun after you are done spraying each “layer” of product. So you spray your 2-3 coats of base, then clean your gun. Spray however many coats of clear (depending on the project), then clean the gun. There are exceptions, of course, but this is the most common way to do it. One of these exceptions is spraying flake. I will usually dump the flake back into my mixing cup after spraying a coat so that it doesn’t settle and clog up my gun. I will then rinse the gun with a little thinner and leave a little thinner in the gun while I wait for my coat to flash off. Then I pour out the thinner before adding the flake back in for my next coat. If you read the tds (technical data sheet) for your products, it will usually have a “pot life” which is the time period that the product is sprayable before it starts hardening up. Theoretically, You can leave product sitting in your gun for that period of time before you have to dump it out and clean your gun.

@@timziegler3765 haha, as someone who grew up loving woodworking, I know how you feel! However, I’m still extremely happy with the end results.

Thank you very much!

@@SweetTGuitars thanks for the tip!

@@SweetTGuitars thanks so much dude!

Sata actually makes a pneumatically agitated cup! If I were spraying flake every day I would probably invest in one, but it is just every once in a while that I would need it.

It’s not so much and adhesion issue, more of a problem with how the paint “sags” around sharp corners. That’s an interesting idea, though, I’ll definitely keep it in mind!

Is there something you are trying to say coherently here? 😅

@@BradAngove thanks a ton, Brad! It was a fun project, and I’m glad you reached out to me to be a part of it!

@@mattliebenau9083 good luck with your painting! Just be ready for the immense mess that spraying flake makes. My garage floor is covered in flake just from being tracked in and out of the booth, and my 3 year old daughter makes fun of my “sparkly shoes” that I wore when spraying this guitar about 3 weeks ago haha.

Thanks for the input, Jonah, I greatly appreciate it! Now the whole thing will have to get sanded down again for two reasons: the texture of the flake needs to be knocked down, and Brad will be doing some more graphics over top of the flake. While it won’t 100% get rid of that edge, I’ll run it by Brad to do the final clear up to the edge of the frets line you mentioned, which will help smooth things out. Again, thanks for the suggestion! I’ll keep that in mind for the next guitar I spray. From Brad’s videos alone, I’ve seen how helpful and knowledgeable the guitar-building community is, and how willing you guys are to share your tricks and tips with other makers. I’m always keen to learn more and take pointers from others who are more experienced than me!

@flyinphil6884 After this, hopefully, we'll get to see you spray more guitars in the future. Again, I do thank you for lending your expertise on this project, and I can't wait to see the final product in person!!! I know the video doesn't do the flake justice on this one.

@@bigkahuna100 I’m extremely happy with how this one turned out, and definitely excited to spray more guitars in the future! I might have to pull one of my own guitars off the wall (and dust it off) and do some crazy paint work. Every time I paint a project, i try to learn something new, and this one is no exception. That’s probably one of my favourite aspects of painting as a career, there is always room to improve and you never stop learning.

went to comment the same thing! I usually like the clear right up to the edge (face) of the fretboard, and then when I come back and round the fretboard and do my fret ends, you can't feel it at all. All that said, that flake is absolutely beautiful! Thanks for the tips on laying it down in thinner coats.

@@collinschipper9248thanks for watching!

Thank you very much!

@@gm-lb9oe hey man! I’m in a small town just outside of Edmonton, but I do live in a neighbourhood with other houses nearby. Being considerate of your neighbours is super important when doing stuff like this in the garage. Fortunately, the corner of the yard that my garage is situated in, it butts up to my neighbours’ garages as well, and not their houses. That being said, I usually spray my projects at night after my kids are in bed. I’ll usually start spraying around 8-9 at night and finish around 1 in the morning. I do filter the fumes as best I can, and I’ve recently started running my exhaust hose into a tire full of water (I’ve seen guys use barrels online), which also greatly reduces the fumes being sent into the atmosphere. I think another key component is that I don’t spray at home very often, and it is usually very small projects. I could see it becoming a nuisance if someone were spraying big projects (like cars) in a residential area, or if they were spraying multiple times a week.