Відео

I swear YT never sends me notifications on comments!!...yes, this fixed the clunk, it still has the usual slightly clunky M diff but it is a thousand times better than what it was!!

Good idea! I may try that.

Not that I recall. Honestly didn't feel all that much of a difference.

It made the steering feel more precise. Not like a huge night and day difference but I still noticed it. Instead of the car seemingly steering itself on ruts or uneven roads, I felt the ruts in the steering wheel and could counter it.

A bit yea lol

I haven't had any issues with them. They seem strong and well built. And I like that the case holds the wrenches well, they don't slip out when the cover is open.

@@seanmiller8701 Does it say on the package where they are made at ?

@@kro3485 If I remember correctly manufactured in China.

Yea I installed a new rebuilt diff from Diffsonline, the clunking I was getting while driving is gone, though there a bit still when the car is on the lift, I'm told it's normal, and it's nothing like in this vid. I'm replacing the constant velocity joint on the rear of the driveshaft tomorrow which should take care of the slight clunk I still have. But it's waaaaay better now with this new diff, so I'd say my old one was bad.

How much was the diff? Also did you replace the driveshaft as well? If so, how much was that?

⁠@@seanmiller8701hey did the klacks is gone ? What was causing as a problem? I know the Clunk is annoying

@@18xromani44 It was the differential. I ended up buying a new one. No more clunk.

Yea next year I want to go for both days so I can see the tournament! Not sure how it worked here. I think maybe you got points for winning and the more time you had an operational bot to more battles you could fight and potentially win. I dunno. Fun to watch though.

Yes its a point system you earn points on damage aggression and control and at that event is double Elimination

@@half-baked_robotics Oh yea I forgot about the commentator talking about control of the battle. Seems like a fun thing to get into.

Its is i was there competing im the biscuit and ut not to hard to get in to

@@half-baked_robotics The biscuit?

He.....she was definitely pesky.

Yea I was surprised considering how small the area was, but then there's a lot of larger areas near by.

Seemed to still drive just fine after the fluid change. Not that it should drive any different. At least now with the break in done I can really get on it again!!

Yea I kinda remember that game being difficult.

I think they Karate kicked me more than I did them...

Ohhh so clever...girl.

I wish they'd do a good movie about it.

Sounds like a cheap knockoff...but could be good lol

@@seanmiller8701 just add more pew pews

I ended up just replacing the Differential with a rebuilt unit from Diffsonline. So far so good. I do think the constant velocity joint on the end of the driveshaft end that bolts to the diff is a bit worn, there's some play in it, and some play in the transmission too, so I think that's basically the rest of my clunk, but the diff clunking has gone away. Only major clunk noise now is when the clutch is in, I just start to put it in 1st and I get a clunk at the diff...but I believe it's just all the slack in other worn parts "hitting" the diff and making it sound as if the diff is clunking. I guess because the clutch never 100% isn't touching the flywheel, it's just like your brakes, minimal contact and when you start to put it in gear it connects everything. I suppose anyways. The car is old, 228k now. It shifts okay, but it's showing it's age.

That would probably work too. My intake tube material is said to be good at insulating the intake air from the heat, but the sensor plastic more readily absorbs it, so yea, if you just put a heat blocking foil around it you'd likely accomplish the same thing.

As I understand what their selling point is: The plastic that makes up the sensor and intake may heat up at idle since there is very little airflow, and then affects the sensor reading despite cooler air flowing by the sensor, so by relocating it farther away from heat sources you essentially take a reading of the same air without the heat soak affecting the sensor. You don't gain hp, but rather maintain peak hp at any given rpm due to the sensor not being manipulated by heat soak. My intake tube material is said to be pretty good at insulating the intake air from engine heat, but the sensor plastic absorbs it much more readily. Supposedly, people have noticed a difference.

Couldn’t really tell if they shone brighter while I was driving, but their effectiveness wasn’t really an issue.

Hmm...check the wiring going to your coil packs - that they're connected securely and connected correctly. If I remember right, that's the only electrical connectors that you really mess with that might cause that. And make sure your O2 sensors are connected. Sorry for the late reply...I swear no matter what my settings are UA-cam never sends me notifications of comments, just ones for suggested videos. Irritating.

I see what you're saying, the open end would need to be closed off at least like how a line wrench is for the extra cuts on these to be of any possible use. They look good though with them.

Did you do yours? How’d it go?

@@seanmiller8701 hahahaha, it went pretty bad actually. dropped a couple of shims and the last rocker arm on the exhaust wouldn’t come loose. i ended up doing damaged to the impulse wheel. i was able to fish out the shins and just towed it to a shop to replace the impulse wheel. i pretty much got it though lol. luckily it didn’t turn out to be catastrophic. i learned but with a huge risk. in 15 k miles i’m confident i’ll do it fine next time. thanks again

@@eazy__m3 yea, almost all my rocker arms were a pain to move out of the way. I took a toothbrush soaked in brake cleaner and scrubber rocker tubes as best I could to make it easier for the rocker arm to slide over. Kinda helped.

It was a bit steamy. Almost inappropriate!

Yea, the credit card fix looked tedious lol and I just wanted to make sure everything was perfect.

Yea I couldn’t figure out how to edit existing videos like I’ve seen people do, so I just uploaded it again.

I'd say it's normal to develop. It didn't used to do this. And a buddy of mine has one too and his doesn't do this. He does have a new diff though. I might get a new diff from Racing Diffs online. They have a concave washer to take up slack and fully customizable diff packages.

Very high lol, on rum and Coke though lol

Yea it was a good time.

It’s shifting better now, but that carrier will work its way out again I’m sure. I might just get a new short shifter.

Eh I dunno. I didn't feel any real power gains but it ran smoother and the throttle response was better. Plus, the sport mode is on at start up and no top speed governor.

@@seanmiller8701 all you had to do was a throttle body reset only takes like 10 seconds

@@youonlyliveonce2556 that would just make it feel stock again, and it actually feels better with the re-flash.

I had it at a shop to have the front mount of the diff replaced, the tech said it was the diff. They had the diff out, so they should be right. I do know the axles can cause clunking. The driveshaft is still good last I checked it. I’ll look into the axles to see if they’re needing replaced.