Update (2023): Matt Ross (6tanks) has now written an updated mod for this TV. Please follow this guide for the best resistor values and solder points. Thanks to this guide, the horizontal screen alignment problem shown in the video is solved: crtdatabase.com/crts/toshiba/toshiba-32a33
Thank you, thank you!! Finally found someone with a similar unused rgb inputs! I have a JVC N seried and it is using Toshiba jungle, so ive been looking up Toshiba rgb mods.
Awesome job. Thanks for the upload... I have a pvm2030 that had intractable geometry issues until I had it recaped. Now the geometry is virtually perfect. I recommended you give that a try...I've got pvms and a bvm but I prefer to play on my 32 inch wega. The size more than makes up for the loss in sharpness. I use the shinybo component to rgb. I don't believe it adds any noise.
It's unfortunate that people have been led to believe that Sonys & flatscreens are the end all be all of CRTs. This Toshiba is arcade quality at it's best.
Sony's patent on the aperture grille design of the Trinitron expired in 1996. After that there was competition from other manufacturers with comparable screens.
@@BasementBrothers I read recently that no one else made aperture grille screen TVs other than Sony, despite the patent expiration. A couple other brands made them for computer monitors but not TVs. In my opinion the shadow mask style screens that the other brands used is better looking. That's what arcade monitors are.
Found one of these babies in great condition on the side of the road last summer. I adore this thing. My only complaint is that there is some sort of power saving thing that dims the screen when you leave the video settings.
I just posted about something similar with mine (possibly the same thing). Whenever a lot of black/dark appears on the screen, the TV automatically boosts the brightness/contrast, and vice versa. For example, a dark text box, or sudden black crop bars on top and bottom (like when you press the Z button when playing either of the N64 Zelda games) makes the entire screen go brighter. Even going from a slightly light scene to a darker one will trigger it. I do not see any option to disable this in the user or service menus. I don't even know what it's called but I'm assuming it's what Toshiba advertised as "black level expansion". I hate when a marketing gimmick ruins an otherwise nice product.
@@spencer6891 That's interesting. I didn't realize Toshiba considered that a feature lmao. Thanks for sharing. But idk, for me it seems to be the entire screen at all times. Like the Super Mario World title screen for example, is noticably darker. When I go into the menu, a change a setting up or down by one notch, the screen gets really bright, and then slowly dims as I leave the menu.
If you used the Shinybow SCART to component adapter (the one you shown is kinda like a knock of it), that gives a brilliant picture and no need to use a replacement PS, but oh well, you obviously had fun with this project!
Yeah but I don't think all CRT tvs in Europe carry RGB signals. I have an old CRT, bought an RGB scart cable and the picture looks no different, really. It seems to just be carrying shitty composite. Just because your TV has a scart socket, doesn't mean it will use RGB signals, it seems.
Nice mod! I still have a 32" Panasonic CRT I wanna RGB mod. I practiced with a little 13" CRT I got from a Goodwill first but it was a quick hack straight to the election guns with my SNES. Beautiful picture but no picture adjustment control. I'll have to look up the model and see if there's a chip like this to do it the right way.
Please update if you do work out a fix for the shifted image. It’s also a bit stretched on the right. All my Toshiba sets are shifted left even unmodded with HD Retrovision cables. I assumed it was because they use tri-level sync like an HDTV since HD Retrovision’s “Sync Jitter” page describes that causing some TVs to shift left. Obviously, these aren’t HDTVs but that still might explain it. Also, FYI, Sony Wega is pronounced “Vega” with the Latin pronunciation of W. ;)
Interesting about the tri-level sync. I hadn't heard of that issue. So adjusting the position in the service menu doesn't fix it? I've heard people pronounce it Vega. I guess I wasn't curious enough to check it before recording.
@@BasementBrothers At 9:05 you mention the same issue with it being shifted left and that it can’t be completely fixed in the service menu. You said Bratwurst had an idea about how to fix it for both of you. I had hoped you found a solution. You can’t fix it by adjusting H-position in the service menu because it is also unevenly stretched. If you could adjust it to the right enough to correct the left edge you would be losing as much or more from the right edge. Not talking about usual overscan here though. It may not be related to bi-level or tri-level sync at all. I had just read about it when I got my HD Retrovision cables several years ago and always thought that was it… but all my Toshibas CRTs have Orion tubes inside. Orion is known for having a weirdly uneven stretch. I believe a Lame Gaming or The SegaHolic video mentioned this in their Toshiba TV RGB mod video (whoever it was demonstrated with Contra Hard Corps).
Thanks for including the guide, just tried this mod using the osd inputs and not working yet.. going to follow your method now... and yep, those unused rgb inputs on the jungle are the key, also using the 104 caps in-line as prescribed. Thanks! My only question is why bother switching back to the original circuit when it was never used? I didn’t bother, just blanking on/off
You don't need a switch, just do like our European TVs, scart devices feed their RGB blanking voltage through the Scart plug, turn on the device the TV switches to RGB mode, turn off the device the TV returns to composite/TV mode, that's how it's done here, there is also a signaling pin to make the TV switch to AV automaticaly but you don't need it just switch to AV on the remote. You can still use the resistors behind the scart plug to reduce it to the proper voltage the jungle IC expects for blanking.
@@BasementBrothers Well at least every single European console, whether a megadrive, a n64, a snes, a wii, etc with their respective cable that supports RGB sends the blanking voltage, it's mandatory to make it work.
I am asking out of naivety, but what is the difference between component and RGB 9:33? I thought they were the same, I realize that one, in this case, is a SCART connection. Can someone please entertain my ignorance? I am really trying to learn this stuff. Thank you.
When I mention component, I'm talking about the YPbPr signal that it is most known for carrying in NTSC regions. It is not a standard RGB signal like those used by game consoles and arcade games. Read up on the YPbPR Wikipedia page. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/YPbPr
this kind of makes me curious if my Toshiba 27A34 has the same or similar jungle chip so i can do an rgb mod (already has component but straight up rgb without having to convert to component from my understanding is better) but i can’t seem to find a service manual or schematic, and can’t find anything on this
Did you wire your sync to the composite input? If you did, try using the component luma input instead, this will probably fix the horizontal shift issue.
@@BasementBrothers My parents used to have this TV. Those RCA jacks are indeed stupidly fragile! You may want to try the S-video luma input as well, if you haven't already. On my RGB modded sony, I get bad picture shift if I use composite, but using luma from s-video is fine. As I understand it, this is due to the composite signal going through a comb filter, causing the picture shift.
@@BasementBrothers How weird! My parents still have their 32a33 sitting unused at their house. I really want to bring it back to my place and RGB mod it but it's a beast.
I have this set and it would be my favorite CRT if it wasn't for one small but very distracting "flaw". Whenever a lot of black/dark appears on the screen, the TV automatically boosts the brightness/contrast, and vice versa. For example, a dark text box, or sudden black crop bars on top and bottom (like when you press the Z button when playing either of the N64 Zelda games) makes the entire screen go brighter. Even going from a slightly light scene to a darker one will trigger it. I do not see any option to disable this in the user or service menus. I don't even know what it's called but I'm assuming it's what Toshiba advertised as "black level expansion". Have you guys noticed this problem? Any idea about how to disable it on the PCB?
Great job on the mod! Hoping to RGB mod a few CRTs I found for free on Craigslist. I'm curious - how expensive was the mod, not including the price of the TV or any SCART cables? And how much time did you spend looking for documentation and reading tutorials? Also, how has nobody commented on that beer pour?
Thanks for the feedback. The beer footage is something of a recurring joke we use on this channel, and I believe it was commented on already in the Secret of Mana 3 video or the NES mod video, where it was also used. The original joke was that it was a very careless, half-assed, rushed pour. It's very hard to put a price on this particular mod. It's almost free if you already own the tools. The main cost would be buying any supplies that you don't already have, but if you already do some modding, you may already have most of the tools and supplies needed. I paid 5.99 pounds for the scart connector from retrogamigcables (about $7.76 US), plus 10.24 pounds priority shipping to the US, which is high, but I always buy some other cables or something I need when I order from there to combine shipping. As mentioned in the video, there is a much cheaper connector you can order from China on ebay for about 2 for $3.00 if you're willing to wait a month for shipping. Then there's a handful of resistors, caps and wires. Very hard to put a price on these things, since I typically order these in bulk for $20~ large packs on amazon or Jameco. I don't know anyone who buys one resistor or cap at a time. The main cost really is for a good soldering iron, dremel tool, drill and bits. But these are all investments on things you can use later for other projects.
This set already has excellent component input, and with hd retrovision cables, there is no discernable difference between it and an RGB mod. Im not sure what the point is other than if you have a multi scart setup. The cost of this mod wouldcover 50% of a hd retrovision cable.
what kind of gloves are you using? specific model or link? i'm trying to find a pair that can handle at least 40-60kv, dealing with a massive 40" CRT TV, curved screen. gotta discharge it, clean up the back (getting corona sparks due to the humidity making the surrounding dirt turn into a type of mushy linty surface). might re-seal it too.. but while I'm in there, might even RGB mod it.
Hi there do you know someone that can tell if a certain CRT is compatible with this mod? I have a Sharp tv from 2002 but is just composite video, i want to keep this tv always and give it RGB will be great, i have the PDF diagram but have zero knowledge of electronics i want to take a course next year do you know someone can just tell me if my tv can be modded?
Thank you for your response I’m been trying to get this to work, through the closed caption chip. Do you remember pins you use? Are these all of them -2,6 audio input -7,11,15 RGB -20 Sync input -21 or 18 sync Ground, 5 blue Ground, 9 green Ground, 13 red Ground, 4 audio Ground(bridge the grounds)
@@kaedrik5064 I'm not aware of a factory reset. That's why you have to be careful in the service menu. I just guess the meanings based on what they appear to do.
nice video coool, can some one help me for my TV mod ,i want to mod my TV for RGBs scart, and i dont know how to do it, i dit a lot of research and i found a lot of information about my TV, and i have all pictures of datasheet ,my TV seem not having OSD ,i want to know what is the best to go about it...If rising the legs on the RGB-in line on the jungle chip is best or somewhere else.., if some one want to help me im gonna send him a pictures of datasheet
I have this exact TV. Do you mind telling us the video output quality? I can't seem to find it anywhere and the remote doesn't let me choose through 480p or 480i whatever. Just curious since I'd like to use RGB or even Svideo with my Nintendos: SNES, N64, and GameCube. Thanks!
It's a standard def CRT, so 480i only, as usual. The RGB mod is sharp. The TV often has some noise on solid colors, which may be due to my video source. The RGB picture is sharper than the component. I just wish I could center the image further right when using RGB.
@@BasementBrothers thanks! I'm using S-Video from an SNES (bought in 2000 so its luckily one of the newer "1chip" consoles with sharper stock image. That and the S-video looks good enough for my eyes but have enjoyed learning about the RGB mod for this TV. Our GameCube outputs 480p component, so I'm thinking S-Video will be best for that too seeing how these TVs can't handle 480p anyway, and I'd have to modify every one of my consols for RGB output. I wish I could center ours too. Or possibly adjust the "pitch, roll, & yaw" or is it called slant and skew for better alignment? I'm a novice with electricity so Im thinking I shouldn't attempt to physically adjust the tubes. Just wondering if there was some hidden menu on the remote I can't find. Any tips?
Or you can just buy a Genesis Component cable (or for whatever console you want)... why would you go through the hassle to use scart? Makes no sense honestly. Component IS RGB.
Component is not RGB. Component is YPbPr. While I agree that it is an equivalent format in terms of quality, the console's native output is RGB, not YPbPr. By going straight to the TV by RGB, you're eliminating a conversion step.
@@BasementBrothers You're right, it is YPbPr... other than that technical term it really means nothing. They both look exactly the same. You don't have a superior image or colors just because you use Scart.
Update (2023): Matt Ross (6tanks) has now written an updated mod for this TV. Please follow this guide for the best resistor values and solder points. Thanks to this guide, the horizontal screen alignment problem shown in the video is solved:
crtdatabase.com/crts/toshiba/toshiba-32a33
It's been awhile Glad to see you're still making videos. Hope you didn't hurt yourself doing this mod. CRTs are tricky to mod put it lightly.
I thought I couldn't do this mod, then I looked over at my tv and realized we have the exact same toshiba. Holy crap!
so how did it go?
Sweet, I just found this exact TV today!
I foound a 32A42 on Craigslist. I'm not sure what the difference is to your TV, but I assume the modding process would be similar.
My neighbor set out for free with beautiful corner stand, this exact tv, they bought it new and still looks new, I hooked the 64 to it haha
My heart leapt at the Cybernator music - one of my fave 16-bit soundtracks. The basslines are monstrous. So many memories of my late brother as well.
Thank you, thank you!! Finally found someone with a similar unused rgb inputs!
I have a JVC N seried and it is using Toshiba jungle, so ive been looking up Toshiba rgb mods.
Great video as always Alec
Awesome job. Thanks for the upload... I have a pvm2030 that had intractable geometry issues until I had it recaped. Now the geometry is virtually perfect. I recommended you give that a try...I've got pvms and a bvm but I prefer to play on my 32 inch wega. The size more than makes up for the loss in sharpness. I use the shinybo component to rgb. I don't believe it adds any noise.
Nice.
It's unfortunate that people have been led to believe that Sonys & flatscreens are the end all be all of CRTs. This Toshiba is arcade quality at it's best.
Sony's patent on the aperture grille design of the Trinitron expired in 1996. After that there was competition from other manufacturers with comparable screens.
@@BasementBrothers I read recently that no one else made aperture grille screen TVs other than Sony, despite the patent expiration. A couple other brands made them for computer monitors but not TVs. In my opinion the shadow mask style screens that the other brands used is better looking. That's what arcade monitors are.
Found one of these babies in great condition on the side of the road last summer. I adore this thing. My only complaint is that there is some sort of power saving thing that dims the screen when you leave the video settings.
I just posted about something similar with mine (possibly the same thing). Whenever a lot of black/dark appears on the screen, the TV automatically boosts the brightness/contrast, and vice versa. For example, a dark text box, or sudden black crop bars on top and bottom (like when you press the Z button when playing either of the N64 Zelda games) makes the entire screen go brighter. Even going from a slightly light scene to a darker one will trigger it. I do not see any option to disable this in the user or service menus. I don't even know what it's called but I'm assuming it's what Toshiba advertised as "black level expansion". I hate when a marketing gimmick ruins an otherwise nice product.
@@spencer6891 That's interesting. I didn't realize Toshiba considered that a feature lmao. Thanks for sharing. But idk, for me it seems to be the entire screen at all times. Like the Super Mario World title screen for example, is noticably darker. When I go into the menu, a change a setting up or down by one notch, the screen gets really bright, and then slowly dims as I leave the menu.
If you used the Shinybow SCART to component adapter (the one you shown is kinda like a knock of it), that gives a brilliant picture and no need to use a replacement PS, but oh well, you obviously had fun with this project!
I don't get here in Europe all Crts came with the scart connector as standard
Yeah but I don't think all CRT tvs in Europe carry RGB signals. I have an old CRT, bought an RGB scart cable and the picture looks no different, really. It seems to just be carrying shitty composite.
Just because your TV has a scart socket, doesn't mean it will use RGB signals, it seems.
Nice mod! I still have a 32" Panasonic CRT I wanna RGB mod. I practiced with a little 13" CRT I got from a Goodwill first but it was a quick hack straight to the election guns with my SNES. Beautiful picture but no picture adjustment control. I'll have to look up the model and see if there's a chip like this to do it the right way.
Please update if you do work out a fix for the shifted image. It’s also a bit stretched on the right.
All my Toshiba sets are shifted left even unmodded with HD Retrovision cables. I assumed it was because they use tri-level sync like an HDTV since HD Retrovision’s “Sync Jitter” page describes that causing some TVs to shift left. Obviously, these aren’t HDTVs but that still might explain it.
Also, FYI, Sony Wega is pronounced “Vega” with the Latin pronunciation of W. ;)
Interesting about the tri-level sync. I hadn't heard of that issue. So adjusting the position in the service menu doesn't fix it?
I've heard people pronounce it Vega. I guess I wasn't curious enough to check it before recording.
@@BasementBrothers At 9:05 you mention the same issue with it being shifted left and that it can’t be completely fixed in the service menu. You said Bratwurst had an idea about how to fix it for both of you. I had hoped you found a solution.
You can’t fix it by adjusting H-position in the service menu because it is also unevenly stretched. If you could adjust it to the right enough to correct the left edge you would be losing as much or more from the right edge. Not talking about usual overscan here though.
It may not be related to bi-level or tri-level sync at all. I had just read about it when I got my HD Retrovision cables several years ago and always thought that was it… but all my Toshibas CRTs have Orion tubes inside. Orion is known for having a weirdly uneven stretch. I believe a Lame Gaming or The SegaHolic video mentioned this in their Toshiba TV RGB mod video (whoever it was demonstrated with Contra Hard Corps).
For even better picture quality you should use thin shielded cables for RGB signals along the entire route
Hi
I have Official RGB cable the gray one, and the picture was not stable. It just moves.
Any idea how to make it !
Thanks
Thanks for including the guide, just tried this mod using the osd inputs and not working yet.. going to follow your method now... and yep, those unused rgb inputs on the jungle are the key, also using the 104 caps in-line as prescribed. Thanks!
My only question is why bother switching back to the original circuit when it was never used? I didn’t bother, just blanking on/off
You don't need a switch, just do like our European TVs, scart devices feed their RGB blanking voltage through the Scart plug, turn on the device the TV switches to RGB mode, turn off the device the TV returns to composite/TV mode, that's how it's done here, there is also a signaling pin to make the TV switch to AV automaticaly but you don't need it just switch to AV on the remote. You can still use the resistors behind the scart plug to reduce it to the proper voltage the jungle IC expects for blanking.
Yes. However, I don't think all of my scart cables have the blanking voltage.
@@BasementBrothers Well at least every single European console, whether a megadrive, a n64, a snes, a wii, etc with their respective cable that supports RGB sends the blanking voltage, it's mandatory to make it work.
Run sync through the s video port or component port to miss the composite comb filter. That will give you a more centered picture.
I tried that. I don't think that's the issue on this model.
I am asking out of naivety, but what is the difference between component and RGB 9:33? I thought they were the same, I realize that one, in this case, is a SCART connection. Can someone please entertain my ignorance? I am really trying to learn this stuff. Thank you.
When I mention component, I'm talking about the YPbPr signal that it is most known for carrying in NTSC regions. It is not a standard RGB signal like those used by game consoles and arcade games. Read up on the YPbPR Wikipedia page.
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/YPbPr
this kind of makes me curious if my Toshiba 27A34 has the same or similar jungle chip so i can do an rgb mod (already has component but straight up rgb without having to convert to component from my understanding is better) but i can’t seem to find a service manual or schematic, and can’t find anything on this
Nice!
Did you wire your sync to the composite input? If you did, try using the component luma input instead, this will probably fix the horizontal shift issue.
@@BasementBrothers My parents used to have this TV. Those RCA jacks are indeed stupidly fragile!
You may want to try the S-video luma input as well, if you haven't already. On my RGB modded sony, I get bad picture shift if I use composite, but using luma from s-video is fine. As I understand it, this is due to the composite signal going through a comb filter, causing the picture shift.
@@BasementBrothers How weird! My parents still have their 32a33 sitting unused at their house. I really want to bring it back to my place and RGB mod it but it's a beast.
Hmm, I have an old Toshiba in the basement (model CN30C90). I wonder how hard it would be to add a component input.
I have this set and it would be my favorite CRT if it wasn't for one small but very distracting "flaw". Whenever a lot of black/dark appears on the screen, the TV automatically boosts the brightness/contrast, and vice versa. For example, a dark text box, or sudden black crop bars on top and bottom (like when you press the Z button when playing either of the N64 Zelda games) makes the entire screen go brighter. Even going from a slightly light scene to a darker one will trigger it. I do not see any option to disable this in the user or service menus. I don't even know what it's called but I'm assuming it's what Toshiba advertised as "black level expansion". Have you guys noticed this problem? Any idea about how to disable it on the PCB?
No, I haven't noticed. I'm not even sure what you're talking about.
Great job on the mod! Hoping to RGB mod a few CRTs I found for free on Craigslist. I'm curious - how expensive was the mod, not including the price of the TV or any SCART cables? And how much time did you spend looking for documentation and reading tutorials?
Also, how has nobody commented on that beer pour?
Thanks for the feedback. The beer footage is something of a recurring joke we use on this channel, and I believe it was commented on already in the Secret of Mana 3 video or the NES mod video, where it was also used. The original joke was that it was a very careless, half-assed, rushed pour.
It's very hard to put a price on this particular mod. It's almost free if you already own the tools. The main cost would be buying any supplies that you don't already have, but if you already do some modding, you may already have most of the tools and supplies needed.
I paid 5.99 pounds for the scart connector from retrogamigcables (about $7.76 US), plus 10.24 pounds priority shipping to the US, which is high, but I always buy some other cables or something I need when I order from there to combine shipping. As mentioned in the video, there is a much cheaper connector you can order from China on ebay for about 2 for $3.00 if you're willing to wait a month for shipping.
Then there's a handful of resistors, caps and wires. Very hard to put a price on these things, since I typically order these in bulk for $20~ large packs on amazon or Jameco. I don't know anyone who buys one resistor or cap at a time.
The main cost really is for a good soldering iron, dremel tool, drill and bits. But these are all investments on things you can use later for other projects.
If i want ot make a RGB hack to a PVM 14N5U can i use this tutorial?
This set already has excellent component input, and with hd retrovision cables, there is no discernable difference between it and an RGB mod. Im not sure what the point is other than if you have a multi scart setup. The cost of this mod wouldcover 50% of a hd retrovision cable.
Do you have a link to the forum you worked from? I found this TV in my area, and your video popped up when I searched to see if it was moddable
Here you go:
shmups.system11.org/viewtopic.php?t=56155
Can you show a link where to order this replacement adapter please?
@@BasementBrothers Thanks!😉
Why does the mod need resistors? Many scart cables already include them.
what kind of gloves are you using? specific model or link? i'm trying to find a pair that can handle at least 40-60kv, dealing with a massive 40" CRT TV, curved screen. gotta discharge it, clean up the back (getting corona sparks due to the humidity making the surrounding dirt turn into a type of mushy linty surface). might re-seal it too.. but while I'm in there, might even RGB mod it.
Hi!!! Great video!!! What is the game that appears in the minute 8:58???
Hi there do you know someone that can tell if a certain CRT is compatible with this mod? I have a Sharp tv from 2002 but is just composite video, i want to keep this tv always and give it RGB will be great, i have the PDF diagram but have zero knowledge of electronics i want to take a course next year do you know someone can just tell me if my tv can be modded?
@@BasementBrothers Thanks for the answer, i'll try to look on the web cause it's seems my tv is region exclusive.
did you bridge the grounds together?
Yes I did. They should be shared.
Thank you for your response I’m been trying to get this to work, through the closed caption chip. Do you remember pins you use? Are these all of them -2,6 audio input
-7,11,15 RGB
-20 Sync input
-21 or 18 sync Ground, 5 blue Ground, 9 green Ground, 13 red Ground, 4 audio Ground(bridge the grounds)
I didn't use the closed caption chip. On this model, you can wire straight to the jungle chip. The pins are marked in the video. Good luck.
The Toshiba CRT’s are very underrated.. I have a 27A45 and I honestly got rid of my Sony. The toshiba has much better colors and screen geometry.
How do you get into the service menu?
Press and hold the {MUTE} button on the remote. Then press the {MENU} button on the TV's front panel. To exit, turn the power off.
@@kaedrik5064 I'm not aware of a factory reset. That's why you have to be careful in the service menu. I just guess the meanings based on what they appear to do.
@@BasementBrothers all fun and games until your menu button on the tv isn’t doing anything🥲
I got my PVM as a gift from a local friend video game collector
I have that tv
nice video coool, can some one help me for my TV mod ,i want to mod my TV for RGBs scart, and i dont know how to do it, i dit a lot of research and i found a lot of information about my TV, and i have all pictures of datasheet ,my TV seem not having OSD ,i want to know what is the best to go about it...If rising the legs on the RGB-in line on the jungle chip is best or somewhere else.., if some one want to help me im gonna send him a pictures of datasheet
I have this exact TV. Do you mind telling us the video output quality? I can't seem to find it anywhere and the remote doesn't let me choose through 480p or 480i whatever. Just curious since I'd like to use RGB or even Svideo with my Nintendos: SNES, N64, and GameCube. Thanks!
It's a standard def CRT, so 480i only, as usual. The RGB mod is sharp. The TV often has some noise on solid colors, which may be due to my video source. The RGB picture is sharper than the component. I just wish I could center the image further right when using RGB.
@@BasementBrothers thanks! I'm using S-Video from an SNES (bought in 2000 so its luckily one of the newer "1chip" consoles with sharper stock image. That and the S-video looks good enough for my eyes but have enjoyed learning about the RGB mod for this TV. Our GameCube outputs 480p component, so I'm thinking S-Video will be best for that too seeing how these TVs can't handle 480p anyway, and I'd have to modify every one of my consols for RGB output.
I wish I could center ours too. Or possibly adjust the "pitch, roll, & yaw" or is it called slant and skew for better alignment? I'm a novice with electricity so Im thinking I shouldn't attempt to physically adjust the tubes. Just wondering if there was some hidden menu on the remote I can't find. Any tips?
I think you should adjust the geometry a bit, there’s a bulge on the right side
Yeah, it's not perfect. This seems to be the best I could do on my own.
Can that TV play 50hz content under RGB? That's something I've been wondering about these CRT mods for a good while...
Most higher end PAL CRT TVs can play both 50Hz 576i and 60Hz 480i
0:53 Don't, I have one & this thing is better.
Looks like a lot of work, I'll stick with the HD Retrovision component cables.
I also can't wait for the King Of The Monsters review.
There's zero benefit to this mod over your own hd retrovision component cables.
Or you can just buy a Genesis Component cable (or for whatever console you want)... why would you go through the hassle to use scart? Makes no sense honestly. Component IS RGB.
Component is not RGB. Component is YPbPr. While I agree that it is an equivalent format in terms of quality, the console's native output is RGB, not YPbPr. By going straight to the TV by RGB, you're eliminating a conversion step.
@@BasementBrothers You're right, it is YPbPr... other than that technical term it really means nothing. They both look exactly the same. You don't have a superior image or colors just because you use Scart.
RGB isn't a better signal than YPbPr. However, the issue is the added conversion step, which is inherently lossy. And I made this point in the video.
not this one