Love it. Great detail explanation. I don't have a mill to drill and cut the holes. In the past, I used painters tape over the base of the metal enclosure and used the Co2 to accurately mark out the positions again. Then laboriously drill and cut by hand. 👍👍👍 🙂Rob
I would consider adding a fuse right after your AC receptacle, unless they already exist on the PCBs. I might have to look into getting a laser cutter now.
I asked on your previous video if the laser would be suitable for use indoors, but it looks like you've now got the "home type" air filter connected? How well does it work for controlling the smell?
I have the same laser, there's no way I'd want to use it indoors! I have it exhausted through the wall of my workshop to the outdoors with the inline duct fan.
Hey! I do have the HEPA filter on it, and it helps tremendously. I will be doing a full review, but here's my quick take. If you're using it occasionally inside and don't mind some mild odor, it does the trick. I would say it's better than me venting outside with the door cracked, as some of the fumes still blow back in the shop. If you have a small inside room (like a home office or something) and you're trying to run an etsy shop, cutting long hours all day, you're going to still want to vent outside or the fumes will build up over time. It cuts down on fumes by 90%+, but you can kinda tell that the laser was being used. I think MOST of this comes from fumes built up inside the enclosure, and just leaving the lid open for a minute or so at a time. But I was able to cut acrylic, venting directly into my shop and it was noticeable, but not bad at all. Usually with acrylic, I need to vent outside and I don't want to be in the shop afterwards at all. Hope it helps, let me know if you want to know more!
Yeah, not ideal. I did listen to it for about a month through the buck converters and it didn't sound any different than the standard power supply. In theory, I could always add an external linear supply, but I'm not sure it would make much difference.
Fun project to follow along with. I see some fuses on the amplifier boards, is there any need to add additional protection for any of the other components? Also, would the amplifier boards run cooler if their heatsinks were directly below the holes in the case? Looking forward to how this all turns out in the end.
Great question. I don't think additional fuses are terribly necessary here. The amplifier modules both have fuses and if anything is going to fail, it's going to be those. I COULD add an in-line fuse before or after the relay module, but I'm not really sure it would do much. But good idea. And yes, it would run cooler if the heatsinks were closer to the cutouts, but that really screws up all the internal wiring (lots of extra wire). These modules don't get very hot or even warm, especially with the attached speakers, so I'm not too worried about heat.
![[NEW] Making F-16 Simulator Cockpit Panels](/img/n.gif)
The blue tape layout trick is so simple I'm pissed I've never thought of it before. Brilliant. Super cool project.
Ha, right? I tend to over-complicate things and sometimes the simple solutions are the way to go.
Love it. Great detail explanation. I don't have a mill to drill and cut the holes. In the past, I used painters tape over the base of the metal enclosure and used the Co2 to accurately mark out the positions again. Then laboriously drill and cut by hand. 👍👍👍 🙂Rob
Ah, that's a good way to do it, basically creating a really accurate outline for everything.
Very super pro, taking notes!
I would consider adding a fuse right after your AC receptacle, unless they already exist on the PCBs.
I might have to look into getting a laser cutter now.
Both amp modules have a fuse right on the power supply section.
I asked on your previous video if the laser would be suitable for use indoors, but it looks like you've now got the "home type" air filter connected? How well does it work for controlling the smell?
I have the same laser, there's no way I'd want to use it indoors! I have it exhausted through the wall of my workshop to the outdoors with the inline duct fan.
Hey! I do have the HEPA filter on it, and it helps tremendously. I will be doing a full review, but here's my quick take. If you're using it occasionally inside and don't mind some mild odor, it does the trick. I would say it's better than me venting outside with the door cracked, as some of the fumes still blow back in the shop. If you have a small inside room (like a home office or something) and you're trying to run an etsy shop, cutting long hours all day, you're going to still want to vent outside or the fumes will build up over time. It cuts down on fumes by 90%+, but you can kinda tell that the laser was being used. I think MOST of this comes from fumes built up inside the enclosure, and just leaving the lid open for a minute or so at a time. But I was able to cut acrylic, venting directly into my shop and it was noticeable, but not bad at all. Usually with acrylic, I need to vent outside and I don't want to be in the shop afterwards at all. Hope it helps, let me know if you want to know more!
Correct, but I have the optional HEPA air filter which allows you to use it inside without venting out a window.
Switching buck converters for powering the DSP? Might want some good capacitors on there, or a linear regulator somewhere in there.
Yeah, not ideal. I did listen to it for about a month through the buck converters and it didn't sound any different than the standard power supply. In theory, I could always add an external linear supply, but I'm not sure it would make much difference.
Fun project to follow along with. I see some fuses on the amplifier boards, is there any need to add additional protection for any of the other components? Also, would the amplifier boards run cooler if their heatsinks were directly below the holes in the case? Looking forward to how this all turns out in the end.
Great question. I don't think additional fuses are terribly necessary here. The amplifier modules both have fuses and if anything is going to fail, it's going to be those. I COULD add an in-line fuse before or after the relay module, but I'm not really sure it would do much. But good idea. And yes, it would run cooler if the heatsinks were closer to the cutouts, but that really screws up all the internal wiring (lots of extra wire). These modules don't get very hot or even warm, especially with the attached speakers, so I'm not too worried about heat.
would you mind sharing the DXF- / vector files?
have a miniDSP lying around and thinking about, re-building your design