I wish there was some way I could hug you and thank you!! I warned my son. I told him as soon as the warranty expires ,this Audi is going to break your bank. With your step by step detailed instructions; (even down to what tools, rubber O-rings ,new reverse thread bolt) this nightmare turned into a walk in the park (easy). MOST IMPORTANT DETAIL!! I shared quality time with my son today! Thank you. We watched your (40 minute) video twice. Then we both decided we can do this! I do not care about how much money we saved (doing it our self). Your video gave me the confidence to tackle the task at hand. THANK YOU Manny
@@mitch1078 I've owned two audis and two bmw's with over 200k on them and have literally never had a major issue. I now have two different audis, one with 89k and one with 75k and both have been perfectly reliable. Haven't spent any more maintaining any euro car i've owned than i would have on a shitbox civic.
@@Xixu.co.6 Yes 89k and 75k would still be reliable as they are NOT over 200k as I mentioned. Late model Audi's are not reliable over 200k. That is what I meant...late model Audi's. I'm not sure how you are comparing late model Audi's that have 89k and 75k, to 200k reliability? You will see after 100k you will regret your decision!
@@EDGEMOTORS Yes but they are not late model Audi's. The newer Audi B8+ are not reliable after 200k, unless you want to invest more than their current value in repairs. The engine and transmission components do not last as long on the late model Audi's whatsoever. For example, Audi states both the transmission and steering fluids are "lifetime". That's one of the many recipes for disaster for reliability on the late model Audi's. Water pump premature failures. Door lock actuator premature failures, timing chain guide design flaw premature failure. I can go on and on with late model Audi reliability. Your plenty of customers were not late model Audi's...wait until they are and get back to me!
A huge thank you for this video. I was reluctant to attempt the fix, but after watching your video several times and following along with your dialogue, I took the plunge. Mine is a B8.5 (2013) with 33k. There were slight changes but overall very similar (wiring harness, manifold is alloy+ other items). Took an hour to remove as I was going slowly and taking pics of everything that was removed, about 2h to reinstall. I didn't remove the reservoir as there was space enough to work, and I could not get the reverse bolt to come loose; the protrusion was like a half nut. However, I was able to remove and replace the pump with the belt installed... I removed it from the top gear. With 33k on the odometer, I figured the belt was still good. Found the torque sequence on the VW forum as well as the torque of 9Nm for the pump bolts. Went with the Graf aluminum replacement as I saw on another video that the pump may fail due to the thinness of the plastic near the top. Found the pump, sleeve, G13 coolant, nut and belt as a kit for 228$ at Deutsche Auto - perfect match. A tip on the temp sensor connector, pull the red tab all the way out otherwise the connector won't come off. Pump failure was at the connection between the body and the impeller plate. Again, a huge THANK YOU!!!you as this saved me a minimum of $700 in labor costs.
Gotta love German Engineering LMAO. Good job with the videos, when I am not sure of a job, I sit and watch a video then I can tackle the job without having to stop and think. Subscribed.
Thanks a lot my friend ! you allowed me to save a $ 1,000 labor bill with your video ! Thanks again ! You explain this very well. Subscribed to your channel.
I did this myself and it took me about 6 hours cause I decided to change the auxiliary water pump at the same time. Audi manufactured the bolts on the underside with a cage that’s welded so I had to get creative and pull those out. I highly recommend you change your auxiliary water pump and your serpentine belt and water pump belt at the same time if you are attempting this. Also permatex makes good rub on water pump gasket sealer that you can apply on all the seals. Replace any cracked or worn seals.
This video was a huge help for me doing the water pump on my wife's Q5... thanks very much for creating it! I ended up having to modify my 12 mm box end wrench in order to get that belt removed... that is a tight squeeze in there.
legend video. guys like you increase the productivity of the worlds masses i replaced a water pump on an A3 although got caught out with a different pump. the replacement i received is slighty different in that the thermostat flange was offset and when i tried to connect the lower hose the crankcase vent box was in the way.
By any chance have you done the secondary air pump? I am lost about it!! I have been also testing for relays and same I am so lost!! So if you have something done on the same engine I would be eternally thankful to you. I also appreciate you sharing all your knowledge to all the world!!! You are the man!!!
Thank you so much for the video! Just performed the job myself. Estimate in a shop was $604 just for the labor alone. 1k total. Ridiculous. I did broke the plastic body of the pump when I was tightening the bolts.. so I took old body and used new parts from broken body. - Everything now works great! I also was able to do it without taking the shaft pulley off. (I couldn't unscrew it in any way..). Just slided the belt of and then slided it back by carefully turning the engine
This is a great video... guys you can slide the belt off and get it back on without touching that pain in the ass 12 bolt ... slide the belt off with a falt head and when reassembling you can walk the belt on turning the crankshaft clockwise use a 1/2inch ratchet ...you welcome becareful not to bend the fins but you should be 👍
If you're in the US, this pump resulted in a lawsuit against VW and they've settled as of Dec 2020. If you paid to get this replaced, you can submit for reimbursement (Deadline is Apr 30, 2020). If yours just failed and that's why you're here researching (i.e like me), VW extended the warranty on the part to 10Yrs/100k miles so you can take it to the dealer and they'll replace it for free. See here for details: enginewaterpumpsettlement.com/
Thanks for the valuable information! This seems too good to be true, I really hope this is facts. I will be visiting my local Audi dealership tomorrow!
Your video was a life saver just did this over the weekend! I think I discovered a leak on my valve cover do you have a video for replacing the gasket? Thanks!
not sure if it's mentioned in the comments already, it's much easier it install the belt on the balance shaft and pump while inserting the pump (before you Insert the union to oil cooler) use a flat head and carefully remove belt during initial removal
Thanks for this video My dealership wants $1400 and nearby small shops quoted me $835 & $1065 @ another using Gates part that he says is the same as Oem. But since not driving since March and laid-off my day job, it now needs a battery that dealer says is $550 with all the programming. Does that sound right? Is there that much programming for a battery R&R?
@@itsallaboutthecocktail My local Audi dealer says they charge $100 to recode the computer for the new battery. Some people say that you dont need to. Battery could be about $200 to $250 depending on dealer. If you look up "VCDS recode battery" you will find how to do it yourself with their cable. Buying the cable will pay for itself in just this instance.
@@BOHICA_ They worked with me and I wound up having the dealer do it along with other things. But now I don't even go anywhere, or just grab the wifes' Allroad.
ciao ho una Macan 2.0 tfsi del 2021 quindi stesso motore, km32000, da qualche giorno la temperatura oscilla tra i 90° e 97° pensi che il termostato sia starato? bisogna per forza cambiare tutta la pompa dell'acqua o è possibile sostituire solamente il termostato? grazie
Hello. I'm looking to your videos, trying to solve my audi a4 2009 problem. My weather pump start leaking, I bought a new one and Installed, but te mechanic said the gear that moves the water pump us not turning. Any idea of what this could be??
Alright Pal I have a a4 sline tfsi 2.0 petrol automatic my water pump has gone was all noisy then my reservoir emptied do I need to change my cambelt as well I been told apparently you have to take the cam belt of so it will need a new 1 an re timmed? If u could help cheers
There is an easier way in regards to aligning the intermediate shaft bolt. Instead of trying to line up the bolt with the belt on the sprocket, just start the bolt without the belt on, THEN slide the belt around the loose sprocket! Much easier, as the belt isn't in the way.
I have a 12 A4 B8 2.0tfsi and on my instrument cluster the white led light for the coolant temperature is always flashing and sometimes stays on. Can this be something with the temp sensor or just a bad connection in the clusters solder connection?
Thank you Edge Motors for this video! I have had car overheat when ac is on even though everything seems to be working. The heater does not blow hot air only cold. one inlet into heater core is hotter than the other. the confusing thing about this model is that the inlets are ventricle(up and down) and I can't tell which hose goes where! right now the hot inlet is the lower port, while the bleeder valve is on the top cooler port..?? I love my car as is fresh to death with upgraded turbo and air filter system and other nik naks. it runs fine aside when turn the air conditioning unit. I'm hoping to flush the cor3 and return circulation without it having to b the water pump. Thank you!
@@mhido8901 Hey it had turned out to b the heater core that was clogged n not letting the coolant circulate with the extra load of the air conditioning. Tried to flush at first n out came this brown rust looking thing so I replaced the whole part. So far the car hasn't overheated except when driving in uphill 30 minute continuous traffic traveling in first n 2nd gear as my car is standard. And the heater works now too. FYI I did replace the pump and thermostat AFTER the heater core anyways n it was much harder to replace the heater core mainly cause of the tight squeeze on the driver side behind radio. If u take the job some things ull need to make life easier are ; tiny hex set i think like 3 or 4 mm but I just grabbed a vague set cause I didn't have any that small. The clamps already installed r one time use as the bent will not comform to the new part. I added some sealant n let it cured before refilling as I had a mess of water for not replacing clamps the first time. The most time consuming for me is holding the inlets flush while trying to line up the clamps while holding them to twist the screws and tighten them on both inlets. N there were time where I tightened the clamp n the inlet was for sure not flush on one side looking as if it had a gap to leak; and unfortunately the death of the clamp as its already been used in a sense. So I did get extra clamps after the fact of bending out the initial ones that were suppose to be replacing the old.
In the Audi repair manual (purchased from eBay) it says to use G12 or G13 coolant as lube. It also shows 0 -rings going over this rubber connecter, not sure if he used them or if they are included with the new piece. when purchasing from supplier. When I called Audi they referred to it as a water-pump/engine oil cooler union, but online google searches name it coolant pipe connector. Everyone has a different name!
Well just did this job on my b7 passat 1.8 tsi transverse engine what a nightmare. Did it jacked up if I had a 2 poster maybe would have been easer. Job done now. 66479. Miles when it started leaking.
Good evening I have an Audi a4 with a 2.0 2014 engine that presents a code related to the cooling system, the fault code is P00B7, it also presents an increase in temperature as well as a revolution limitation alarm, the cause of this failure could be the water pump, thank you for your attention.
Great instruction! What cordless tool did you use for the screwdriver? The Bosch normally looks like a gun and big and your one seems to be small and good for the narrow space.
How close it this engine compartment to a 2012 Q5 2.0T? I have a leak and I’m having to refill every week as it’s draining. I’ve watched a few videos and yours is the most descriptive step by step.
Lalo 6god I never let it get that low. If I didn’t keep an eye on it I’m sure my light would come on. I keep filling it every 2 days from min to max. Mine is definitely water pump. Ordered new parts online. Going to swap it out next few days.
City Lumberjack yea but sometimes when i don’t drive it, it gets too low and it tells me. i went to autozone and checked what the light was about and it told me it was the thermostat. hopefully it is
Lalo 6god hopefully it isn’t unless you are doing the repair yourself. Expensive here. Dealership wants $1600 and independent German only mechanic said $1000 maybe more . Water pump has to be removed to get the thermostat out.
Thanks for a great video. I have a 2013 1.8 tfsi. Would it be a similar job? I got a P00b7 error code. I believe it's the water pump. Please be so kind as to let you know.
Good video my friend i have a question my car is overheating Audi 2010 a4 and I just replace the water pump, is no any leak, and the engine. I am wondering Little bellthe bells the ghost in the water pump don't need to turn in the wrong I just think like that without doing nothing
***PLEASE HELP*** Broken Reverse Threaded Bolt Your video is fantastic and I followed it step by step. When I put the new pump on, fastened the T30 bolts, and then put the belt and pulley on, the reverse-threaded bolt wouldn’t tighten enough to cause me resistance, even with the breaker bar holding the crankshaft in place. I was tightening in the right direction (from center to driver side of the car). Then, I fet the reverse-threaded break... To make sure, I turned the crankshaft with the breaker bar, and shortly after the bolt head sheared off. Now 2/3’s of the threaded portion of the bolt is stuck, and I only have about 1/2”-1” of clearance, so not sure how to extract the broken bolt. Please advise, thank you so much.
Well, if you did not cross threaded the bolt, it should easily come out. I had that happen before.... try to spin it with a pick tool or something similar.... if you did cross thread the bolt, then you got yourself a problem......
hey im back again do u have anything regarding replacement of the power steering pump... on an a4 b8 2009. if u dont have a video... is it an easy job or should i take it to the shop to do it...
Thanks for the video. My local "stealership" is quoting me $1000 for water pump and $750 for vacuum pump replacement. Is that a higher than normal quote?
@@EDGEMOTORS thanks for the quick reply will be tackling this this weekend ,will be getting the aluminum housing one instead of the plastic one. And stopping at the dealership for the reverse thread bolt you mentioned 👍
Can you help me please? I could not hear clearly what kind of Torx Screws hold the throttle body in place. I need to know in order to remove it, think mine need to be cleaned, idle really ruff.
I had my water pump replaced with the same one your installing OEM and it only lasted about 35,000 miles now I have to replace it again any suggestions why it failed so early?
@tony le I have the coolant temperature sensor. Part number 06A919501 that I need to replace on my 2011 A4 2.0. How can I get to it and can I only replace it without replacing the whole water pump assembly? Thx
I’ve been trying to locate the Coolant Temperature Sensor on my 2011 A4 2.0. I saw this video, great video btw. Where is these sensor located at. Is that what you have your thumb on at 20:17 of the video. How can I get to it or do I need to replace the entire water pump assembly? Please help SUBSCRIBED
junk solie you didn’t specify where it fell... If it fell into bell-housing, there are couple of holes that will let you find it on the bottom... if you don’t see it, try to rotate the engine by hand and see if it falls down, make sure not to force it... if it stops try to rotate the other way slowly....
@@EDGEMOTORS thank you so much. Will keep going tomorrow. My mechanic is taking too long to schedule me and with your video I feel this is a hard but doable project.
I did the same to my car and now it doesn't accelerate when I press the gas pedal all the way. it only accelerates slowly on lower rpm. What did I do wrong?
Hi thanks for the video I think that the factory way is to remove the intake manifold right ? What do you do when it’s a transverse engine like a TT or A3 Jetta etc do you remove the intake ? To me the hardest part was to remove the pump pulley bolt I to always replace the pulley bolt but I never seem to be able to remove the bolt easily with a regular wrench what I did I ordered the special tool from equipment solution it fits real good it’s offsetted to the left so it grabs good on the bolt .
Yes, for transverse cars we remove the intake, I have allot of different wrenches with different offsets, so I didn’t have to buy a specific wrench for that... I guess I should of mention that:)
I got these www.tooldiscounter.com/ItemDisplay.cfm?lookup=KDT85989&source=froogle&kw=KDT85989&gclid=Cj0KCQiA7dHSBRDEARIsAJhAHwi2Acmw4CLPf8l1xqwgfBnHf-kz0vOH5RyjSsSkEpmshplXqsXALDoaAg1PEALw_wcB
Hi, I have a couple questions, is there a Chat where I can ask you a few questions about my car? Because I believe my car shop is ripping me off for something my car doesn't even have.
@@EDGEMOTORS Sure. I bought my car in 2015 (Audi A3 2015), ever since I only use it to go from my house to my office. My mom bought another Audi exactly 15 days after I bought mine. My car has only 47,225 miles. The problem seems to be in the coolant. I always use PRESTON coolant which is an orange color. My car went out of the shop after oil change and suddenly a red alert light came on. The car is too new to have these kind of problems and I barely use it, I don’t even use it to go for trips out of the city. According to the Audi shop -which is in Honduras and they don’t have a good reputation to fix the cars well- my car needs: - Coolant activator - 1 Gallon of distilled water - Coolant deposit -which I believe is the bucket were you pour in the coolant. - Thermostat - Water pump - Refrigeration hose - Tubing I think this is way too much. Maybe these people are trying to collect some money back because they had to replace a piece that was under warranty and it was worth $4,000. The car is literally brand new, you can smell the leather and the leather doesn’t even have any wrinkles.
@@EDGEMOTORS I just ended up leaving the belt in there because the bolt was not budging and i diidnt wanna strip it. Ever heard cases of belt breaking? I also did not have a new union piece for the oil cooler so i used to old one. Not sure if that will cause troubles down the road. Thanks for the video.
Well the belt probably will be ok for a loonnng time... but the union?.? I don’t know..... that was not that good of an idea li leave it in there... they leak allot....
I attempted this last weekend with horrific results. Everything went fine as I followed this video. I had changed my turbo last june So I did'nt think I would have an issue. I bolted new pump up changed Orings in Hoses but it was When I changed The Belt with the lower left hand threaded small bolt on the Balance Shaft. As I was Torquing the Bolt I had the engine crank bolt connected to a breaker bar so it would not spin. As I torqued the belt was moving So I didnt realize what was about to happen. I wound up snapping the bolt off in the balance shaft. I now have the car at Audi and Im faced with a possible 3K Bill to Repair it as instead of Dropping Transmission or removing engine they feel it would be better to replace the balance shafts. The Area is So tight though to try and retreive whats left of the bolt is almost impossible while the engine is mounted as the block does just that it blocks access to try to use a screw extractor. The Tech at audi is a Friend of mine and sand they NEVER change the Belt as they are under little if no stress or tension. They simply remove belt from top Cog of Water pump. I have over 100K So I thought it was the right thing to do. If anyone at Edge Motors has ever encountered this type of mess and maybe has An Idea of How to extract that Bolt while engine still mounted please reply. DIY on these cars can be very expensive if you do not heed all warnings. Thanks
Well, I did say maybe 100 times to be careful not to break this bolt.... I did break them before... if no one messed with it so far, they are easily extractable... the bolt hole Is longer then the bolt, so when you tighten the bolt and break the hat off it, the shaft of the bolt that is in the hole will be lose. So if you take a 90^ pick tool you can easily drive the bolt out ....
Thank you for sharing your story and I feel sorry for your cost caused by a mistake. Always be careful with a small bolt, an aluminum bolt, or a rusty bolt.
I have just replaced an Audi Q3 water pump. But the water is not circulating. It looks like the thermostat is not opening. It´s an electronic one. Does anyone has an idea of what might be going on? Can anyone help, please?
EDGEMOTORS To stay in place. I replaced the pump with new belt new driving gear and after a few weeks the belt slide off. The belt rubbed into the plastic cover until the cover couldn’t hold it .
The. You did something wrong there, the driving pulley have a ridge that holds the belt on the pulley, and the belt tightens by the pulleys as the driving shaft (balance shaft) has a cone on it, so when you tighten the bolt the pulley slides on the cone and tightens the belt.
How long did this job take?... Local Mechanic is telling me it will be about 6 hours to complete this task. Just asking for my own personal knowledge... great video
That’s about how much we charge for it.... Don’t forget, it takes us allot faster after doing many many times, and spending hundreds of thousands on tools...
I might be tackling this myself, if I Wanna save over $900 dollars; Is it possible for you to give me the list of tools needed/ the ones you used for the job ?
latrisha Spencer Your A4 should still be under warranty. Not to mention that the pump on a 2017 shouldn’t be giving you any issues at all at this point in time unless you’ve added 40,000 a year for the last 3 years. Or around there. Of course you’ll always have a faulty unit here and there but overall, you shouldn’t have any issues. We own a 2014 A4 with 97,000 miles on it and it’s been flawless. Only major repair was a alternator replacement. 🙌🏼
I wish there was some way I could hug you and thank you!! I warned my son. I told him as soon as the warranty expires ,this Audi is going to break your bank. With your step by step detailed instructions; (even down to what tools, rubber O-rings ,new reverse thread bolt) this nightmare turned into a walk in the park (easy). MOST IMPORTANT DETAIL!! I shared quality time with my son today! Thank you. We watched your (40 minute) video twice. Then we both decided we can do this! I do not care about how much money we saved (doing it our self). Your video gave me the confidence to tackle the task at hand. THANK YOU Manny
Audi's B8+ design is absolutely not for the person who wants 200k miles of reliability. Always consider Toyota and Honda for long term.
We have plenty of customers with 200k or more....
@@mitch1078 I've owned two audis and two bmw's with over 200k on them and have literally never had a major issue. I now have two different audis, one with 89k and one with 75k and both have been perfectly reliable. Haven't spent any more maintaining any euro car i've owned than i would have on a shitbox civic.
@@Xixu.co.6 Yes 89k and 75k would still be reliable as they are NOT over 200k as I mentioned. Late model Audi's are not reliable over 200k. That is what I meant...late model Audi's. I'm not sure how you are comparing late model Audi's that have 89k and 75k, to 200k reliability? You will see after 100k you will regret your decision!
@@EDGEMOTORS Yes but they are not late model Audi's. The newer Audi B8+ are not reliable after 200k, unless you want to invest more than their current value in repairs. The engine and transmission components do not last as long on the late model Audi's whatsoever. For example, Audi states both the transmission and steering fluids are "lifetime". That's one of the many recipes for disaster for reliability on the late model Audi's. Water pump premature failures. Door lock actuator premature failures, timing chain guide design flaw premature failure. I can go on and on with late model Audi reliability. Your plenty of customers were not late model Audi's...wait until they are and get back to me!
I just called the shop and these guys are awesome. Helped me with my question. Thanks guys, you have a fan for life.
A huge thank you for this video. I was reluctant to attempt the fix, but after watching your video several times and following along with your dialogue, I took the plunge. Mine is a B8.5 (2013) with 33k. There were slight changes but overall very similar (wiring harness, manifold is alloy+ other items). Took an hour to remove as I was going slowly and taking pics of everything that was removed, about 2h to reinstall. I didn't remove the reservoir as there was space enough to work, and I could not get the reverse bolt to come loose; the protrusion was like a half nut. However, I was able to remove and replace the pump with the belt installed... I removed it from the top gear. With 33k on the odometer, I figured the belt was still good. Found the torque sequence on the VW forum as well as the torque of 9Nm for the pump bolts. Went with the Graf aluminum replacement as I saw on another video that the pump may fail due to the thinness of the plastic near the top. Found the pump, sleeve, G13 coolant, nut and belt as a kit for 228$ at Deutsche Auto - perfect match. A tip on the temp sensor connector, pull the red tab all the way out otherwise the connector won't come off. Pump failure was at the connection between the body and the impeller plate. Again, a huge THANK YOU!!!you as this saved me a minimum of $700 in labor costs.
Gotta love German Engineering LMAO.
Good job with the videos, when I am not sure of a job, I sit and watch a video then I can tackle the job without having to stop and think. Subscribed.
I love this car.....but I hate the overcomplicated design of it. Thanks slot for your video. It helped sooo much.
Thanks a lot my friend ! you allowed me to save a $ 1,000 labor bill with your video ! Thanks again ! You explain this very well. Subscribed to your channel.
Thanks to you I changed out the water pump myself. Awesome video!
I did this myself and it took me about 6 hours cause I decided to change the auxiliary water pump at the same time. Audi manufactured the bolts on the underside with a cage that’s welded so I had to get creative and pull those out. I highly recommend you change your auxiliary water pump and your serpentine belt and water pump belt at the same time if you are attempting this. Also permatex makes good rub on water pump gasket sealer that you can apply on all the seals. Replace any cracked or worn seals.
You are the MAN,,,, I replaced mine with the help of your video GREAT instructional video
Please keep making them
Next replace valve cover gasket....
Thanks for this guide- really helped me out with a leaky A4...
This video was a huge help for me doing the water pump on my wife's Q5... thanks very much for creating it! I ended up having to modify my 12 mm box end wrench in order to get that belt removed... that is a tight squeeze in there.
legend video. guys like you increase the productivity of the worlds masses i replaced a water pump on an A3 although got caught out with a different pump. the replacement i received is slighty different in that the thermostat flange was offset and when i tried to connect the lower hose the crankcase vent box was in the way.
cant see you need more light but how you explained everything its very good thanks you bro, i,m about to start replacing a water pump too
By any chance have you done the secondary air pump? I am lost about it!! I have been also testing for relays and same I am so lost!! So if you have something done on the same engine I would be eternally thankful to you.
I also appreciate you sharing all your knowledge to all the world!!!
You are the man!!!
Wow i thought that it will be a very time/money consuming task for the workshop... but it looks easier than i thought
Excellent job! Thank you for taking the time to make and post this video
Thank you so much for the video! Just performed the job myself. Estimate in a shop was $604 just for the labor alone. 1k total. Ridiculous. I did broke the plastic body of the pump when I was tightening the bolts.. so I took old body and used new parts from broken body. - Everything now works great!
I also was able to do it without taking the shaft pulley off. (I couldn't unscrew it in any way..). Just slided the belt of and then slided it back by carefully turning the engine
What is the torque specs on the water pump and temp sensor bolts or is it just good and hand tight?
This is a great video... guys you can slide the belt off and get it back on without touching that pain in the ass 12 bolt ... slide the belt off with a falt head and when reassembling you can walk the belt on turning the crankshaft clockwise use a 1/2inch ratchet ...you welcome becareful not to bend the fins but you should be 👍
If you're in the US, this pump resulted in a lawsuit against VW and they've settled as of Dec 2020. If you paid to get this replaced, you can submit for reimbursement (Deadline is Apr 30, 2020). If yours just failed and that's why you're here researching (i.e like me), VW extended the warranty on the part to 10Yrs/100k miles so you can take it to the dealer and they'll replace it for free. See here for details: enginewaterpumpsettlement.com/
Thanks for the valuable information! This seems too good to be true, I really hope this is facts. I will be visiting my local Audi dealership tomorrow!
Your video was a life saver just did this over the weekend! I think I discovered a leak on my valve cover do you have a video for replacing the gasket? Thanks!
This car does not have a gasket, valve cover is actually a camshaft hold down plate... you will have to take the timing chain off to reseal...
not sure if it's mentioned in the comments already, it's much easier it install the belt on the balance shaft and pump while inserting the pump (before you Insert the union to oil cooler) use a flat head and carefully remove belt during initial removal
ahhahahaha! think i heard him say local “stealership”! exactly the reason im here. tired of those thieves
Thanks for this video My dealership wants $1400 and nearby small shops quoted me $835 & $1065 @ another using Gates part that he says is the same as Oem.
But since not driving since March and laid-off my day job, it now needs a battery that dealer says is $550 with all the programming. Does that sound right? Is there that much programming for a battery R&R?
@@itsallaboutthecocktail My local Audi dealer says they charge $100 to recode the computer for the new battery. Some people say that you dont need to. Battery could be about $200 to $250 depending on dealer. If you look up "VCDS recode battery" you will find how to do it yourself with their cable. Buying the cable will pay for itself in just this instance.
@@BOHICA_ They worked with me and I wound up having the dealer do it along with other things. But now I don't even go anywhere, or just grab the wifes' Allroad.
Hi there
Very informative and lots off detail
Thank you so mich
Ver5 difficult to see what he was doing...you need a special camera to record the fine details being done.He's a mechanical surgeon no doubt.
It is like watching a skilled surgeon perform. You are an excellent technician. I just wish you were located in Ohio and not New York. Thank you.
your great video have saved me hundreds of dollars by allowing me to do this myself. how can I send you a case of beer?
You can share and spread our name... that will be the biggest help.
Thank you
Hey thank you very much bro for this video I just have a question would this work like this exact same method on a 2008 Audi A4?
Good, do this. Never a need to pull intake manifold.
Thanks edge, what's your paypal? Let me buy you a beer.
Service@edgemotors.com
Thank you
You can keep your job. I'm you going to stick to what I do for a living. Good vid
HELP! Where is the coolant temp sensor located on the B8 2.0?
You guys saved me !! Thankyou 🙏🙏
What is fhe torque specs on the water pump and temp sensor bolts? Is it just hand tight really good?
What would be involved in changing the belt when doing the pump? My car has almost 270,000km and would be a good idea to change it
thanks ,reverse bolt, sleve spacer ,doing this job this week.
Still have a slow slow leak after my replacement. Will the coolant seal that eventually??
Thanks I was trying to take the 12mm bolt to replace the balance shaft and I didn’t know it’s reversed side
Great video. What would you say the labour time is on doing these pumps
ciao ho una Macan 2.0 tfsi del 2021 quindi stesso motore, km32000, da qualche giorno la temperatura oscilla tra i 90° e 97° pensi che il termostato sia starato? bisogna per forza cambiare tutta la pompa dell'acqua o è possibile sostituire solamente il termostato? grazie
Hello. I'm looking to your videos, trying to solve my audi a4 2009 problem. My weather pump start leaking, I bought a new one and Installed, but te mechanic said the gear that moves the water pump us not turning. Any idea of what this could be??
Alright Pal I have a a4 sline tfsi 2.0 petrol automatic my water pump has gone was all noisy then my reservoir emptied do I need to change my cambelt as well I been told apparently you have to take the cam belt of so it will need a new 1 an re timmed? If u could help cheers
It looks like you have an older car, this one has a timing change, not a belt…
There is an easier way in regards to aligning the intermediate shaft bolt. Instead of trying to line up the bolt with the belt on the sprocket, just start the bolt without the belt on, THEN slide the belt around the loose sprocket! Much easier, as the belt isn't in the way.
I’m stuck on trying to get my belt around the pulley
I have a 12 A4 B8 2.0tfsi and on my instrument cluster the white led light for the coolant temperature is always flashing and sometimes stays on. Can this be something with the temp sensor or just a bad connection in the clusters solder connection?
12mm wrench does not seem to work on the reversed thread. You made it look easy? Any tips for for this problem? I do not want to strip it.
Did you figure it out?
How much does it cost to do that.i need mine done but I don't want ro go dealer
Thank you Edge Motors for this video!
I have had car overheat when ac is on even though everything seems to be working. The heater does not blow hot air only cold. one inlet into heater core is hotter than the other. the confusing thing about this model is that the inlets are ventricle(up and down) and I can't tell which hose goes where! right now the hot inlet is the lower port, while the bleeder valve is on the top cooler port..??
I love my car as is fresh to death with upgraded turbo and air filter system and other nik naks. it runs fine aside when turn the air conditioning unit.
I'm hoping to flush the cor3 and return circulation without it having to b the water pump. Thank you!
Hi, i think i have the same problem. My car react similarly as yours. Did you find the problem ? Thanks
@@mhido8901
Hey it had turned out to b the heater core that was clogged n not letting the coolant circulate with the extra load of the air conditioning. Tried to flush at first n out came this brown rust looking thing so I replaced the whole part.
So far the car hasn't overheated except when driving in uphill 30 minute continuous traffic traveling in first n 2nd gear as my car is standard. And the heater works now too.
FYI I did replace the pump and thermostat AFTER the heater core anyways n it was much harder to replace the heater core mainly cause of the tight squeeze on the driver side behind radio. If u take the job some things ull need to make life easier are ; tiny hex set i think like 3 or 4 mm but I just grabbed a vague set cause I didn't have any that small. The clamps already installed r one time use as the bent will not comform to the new part. I added some sealant n let it cured before refilling as I had a mess of water for not replacing clamps the first time. The most time consuming for me is holding the inlets flush while trying to line up the clamps while holding them to twist the screws and tighten them on both inlets. N there were time where I tightened the clamp n the inlet was for sure not flush on one side looking as if it had a gap to leak; and unfortunately the death of the clamp as its already been used in a sense. So I did get extra clamps after the fact of bending out the initial ones that were suppose to be replacing the old.
What sealer do you use for the gasket? Also what do you use to lubricant do you use for the h shape rubber?
In the Audi repair manual (purchased from eBay) it says to use G12 or G13 coolant as lube. It also shows 0 -rings going over this rubber connecter, not sure if he used them or if they are included with the new piece. when purchasing from supplier. When I called Audi they referred to it as a water-pump/engine oil cooler union, but online google searches name it coolant pipe connector. Everyone has a different name!
@@citylumberjack8381 it's called a union for a reason
@@AlphaFlight Hey dickus. Stop trolling people for not knowing.
What happens if the the lower small pulley moves???? Will it affect any timing?? Thanks
exactly what i needed! subcribed!
Working con these kind of engine is like a pain in the ass.
Well just did this job on my b7 passat 1.8 tsi transverse engine what a nightmare. Did it jacked up if I had a 2 poster maybe would have been easer. Job done now. 66479. Miles when it started leaking.
I usually take the intake off and it’s not that bad...
how many liters of coolant did you put in the end?
Good evening I have an Audi a4 with a 2.0 2014 engine that presents a code related to the cooling system, the fault code is P00B7, it also presents an increase in temperature as well as a revolution limitation alarm, the cause of this failure could be the water pump, thank you for your attention.
Where did you find that sleeve ? I'm working on a 12 a4 2.0 and I can't find one listed anywhere... Thanks
@edgemotors do you know the p/n for the sleeve ?
Do we have to disconnect the battery?
Great instruction! What cordless tool did you use for the screwdriver? The Bosch normally looks like a gun and big and your one seems to be small and good for the narrow space.
The screw driver is dewalt
How close it this engine compartment to a 2012 Q5 2.0T?
I have a leak and I’m having to refill every week as it’s draining.
I’ve watched a few videos and yours is the most descriptive step by step.
City Lumberjack i have the same issue but i have an a4. does it tell you to check the coolant temp when it’s too low?
Lalo 6god I never let it get that low. If I didn’t keep an eye on it I’m sure my light would come on. I keep filling it every 2 days from min to max. Mine is definitely water pump. Ordered new parts online. Going to swap it out next few days.
City Lumberjack yea but sometimes when i don’t drive it, it gets too low and it tells me. i went to autozone and checked what the light was about and it told me it was the thermostat. hopefully it is
Lalo 6god hopefully it isn’t unless you are doing the repair yourself. Expensive here. Dealership wants $1600 and independent German only mechanic said $1000 maybe more . Water pump has to be removed to get the thermostat out.
You rock buddy! This video was phenomenal.
Will be attempting this Saturday.
What is that tool you are using!?!?! (right angle impact)
It's a mac tools 12v ratchet
Thanks for a great video. I have a 2013 1.8 tfsi. Would it be a similar job? I got a P00b7 error code. I believe it's the water pump. Please be so kind as to let you know.
Good video my friend i have a question my car is overheating Audi 2010 a4 and I just replace the water pump, is no any leak, and the engine. I am wondering Little bellthe bells the ghost in the water pump don't need to turn in the wrong I just think like that without doing nothing
I don’t really understand your question...
EDGEMOTORS the little bell in the water pumps do something turning or just doing nothing
***PLEASE HELP*** Broken Reverse Threaded Bolt
Your video is fantastic and I followed it step by step. When I put the new pump on, fastened the T30 bolts, and then put the belt and pulley on, the reverse-threaded bolt wouldn’t tighten enough to cause me resistance, even with the breaker bar holding the crankshaft in place. I was tightening in the right direction (from center to driver side of the car). Then, I fet the reverse-threaded break... To make sure, I turned the crankshaft with the breaker bar, and shortly after the bolt head sheared off. Now 2/3’s of the threaded portion of the bolt is stuck, and I only have about 1/2”-1” of clearance, so not sure how to extract the broken bolt. Please advise, thank you so much.
Well, if you did not cross threaded the bolt, it should easily come out. I had that happen before.... try to spin it with a pick tool or something similar.... if you did cross thread the bolt, then you got yourself a problem......
hey im back again do u have anything regarding replacement of the power steering pump... on an a4 b8 2009. if u dont have a video... is it an easy job or should i take it to the shop to do it...
You could use the video we have for the b6 or 7 a4, it would be very simular
Thanks for the video. My local "stealership" is quoting me $1000 for water pump and $750 for vacuum pump replacement. Is that a higher than normal quote?
Well it’s a bit high, like couple of hundred dollar on top of what we charge for this with all original parts
Very good video one quick question. Is this the same procedure for an Audi Q5 2.0Lt?
Yes
@@EDGEMOTORS thanks for the quick reply will be tackling this this weekend ,will be getting the aluminum housing one instead of the plastic one. And stopping at the dealership for the reverse thread bolt you mentioned 👍
Be very careful, don’t break that bolt....
my likes is number 1000
Can you help me please? I could not hear clearly what kind of Torx Screws hold the throttle body in place. I need to know in order to remove it, think mine need to be cleaned, idle really ruff.
T30
@@EDGEMOTORS thank you, sincerely appreciated.
I had my water pump replaced with the same one your installing OEM and it only lasted about 35,000 miles now I have to replace it again any suggestions why it failed so early?
Oem or oe?
@@EDGEMOTORS Oem
@@EDGEMOTORS bought it from audi dealer
Is it possible to replace just the Coolant temperature sensor? Or dose the whole water pump assembly needs to come out?
@tony le I have the coolant temperature sensor. Part number 06A919501 that I need to replace on my 2011 A4 2.0. How can I get to it and can I only replace it without replacing the whole water pump assembly? Thx
did you use an offset 12mm wrench to get onto the pulley bolt?
Yes, the bolt is reverse threaded... very easy to break . Be careful
I’ve been trying to locate the Coolant Temperature Sensor on my 2011 A4 2.0. I saw this video, great video btw. Where is these sensor located at. Is that what you have your thumb on at 20:17 of the video. How can I get to it or do I need to replace the entire water pump assembly? Please help SUBSCRIBED
Download the digital repair manual.
I removed the manifold to do mine.haveing trouble with air in the block.
Do you ever replace the water pump belt? Can that be done easily?
We do, with water pump... I’ve never seen it fail yet...
Saved my ass dude love your work 👍
still in the process of taking out the pump. One of the bolts fell while i was trying to remove it. any tips? i cant spot it so far
Good luck
@@EDGEMOTORS was asking what do i do if one of the pump bolts fell? do i have to break into the transmission housing?
junk solie you didn’t specify where it fell...
If it fell into bell-housing, there are couple of holes that will let you find it on the bottom...
if you don’t see it, try to rotate the engine by hand and see if it falls down, make sure not to force it... if it stops try to rotate the other way slowly....
@@EDGEMOTORS thank you so much. Will keep going tomorrow. My mechanic is taking too long to schedule me and with your video I feel this is a hard but doable project.
I like ur job,
I did the same to my car and now it doesn't accelerate when I press the gas pedal all the way. it only accelerates slowly on lower rpm. What did I do wrong?
Scan it and it will tell you what’s wrong...
Hi brother... Need to ask you some questions... The water pump belt have a timing mark with another shalf? Thank you...
No it does not, no timing marks on the belt
@@EDGEMOTORS So, I can put the belt in any teeth between the water pump and shalf without marking, right?
If you are talking about the same engine as in the video, yes the belt position don’t matter
@@EDGEMOTORS OK... Bro... Thanks for your information...Hope u can make more nice video on UA-cam...Wish you have a wonderful day...
Could you do a video on the 2009 Audi A4 3.2
Hi thanks for the video I think that the factory way is to remove the intake manifold right ? What do you do when it’s a transverse engine like a TT or A3 Jetta etc do you remove the intake ? To me the hardest part was to remove the pump pulley bolt I to always replace the pulley bolt but I never seem to be able to remove the bolt easily with a regular wrench what I did I ordered the special tool from equipment solution it fits real good it’s offsetted to the left so it grabs good on the bolt .
Yes, for transverse cars we remove the intake, I have allot of different wrenches with different offsets, so I didn’t have to buy a specific wrench for that... I guess I should of mention that:)
Thanks for the reply I was thinking that you got a very good grip on that bolt with a regular wrench it usually only grabs a small part of it.
I got these www.tooldiscounter.com/ItemDisplay.cfm?lookup=KDT85989&source=froogle&kw=KDT85989&gclid=Cj0KCQiA7dHSBRDEARIsAJhAHwi2Acmw4CLPf8l1xqwgfBnHf-kz0vOH5RyjSsSkEpmshplXqsXALDoaAg1PEALw_wcB
Hi, I have a couple questions, is there a Chat where I can ask you a few questions about my car? Because I believe my car shop is ripping me off for something my car doesn't even have.
Sorry there is no chat, you can ask here
@@EDGEMOTORS Sure. I bought my car in 2015 (Audi A3 2015), ever since I only use it to go from my house to my office. My mom bought another Audi exactly 15 days after I bought mine. My car has only 47,225 miles. The problem seems to be in the coolant. I always use PRESTON coolant which is an orange color. My car went out of the shop after oil change and suddenly a red alert light came on. The car is too new to have these kind of problems and I barely use it, I don’t even use it to go for trips out of the city. According to the Audi shop -which is in Honduras and they don’t have a good reputation to fix the cars well- my car needs:
- Coolant activator
- 1 Gallon of distilled water
- Coolant deposit -which I believe is the bucket were you pour in the coolant.
- Thermostat
- Water pump
- Refrigeration hose
- Tubing
I think this is way too much. Maybe these people are trying to collect some money back because they had to replace a piece that was under warranty and it was worth $4,000. The car is literally brand new, you can smell the leather and the leather doesn’t even have any wrinkles.
@@giochavez7212 Don't use Prestone in the VW/Audi engines.
Did you need torque specs for this job?
Qeusstion
How can i send a direct qeustion to you and donyou charge for any information'?
Will this same process apply to a 2013 a4 as well?
Does it have the same motor
Yes
What can go wrong if crankshaft is not held with breaker bar when removing the bolt?
Most likely nothing, it’s just easier when the engine is not turning...
@@EDGEMOTORS I just ended up leaving the belt in there because the bolt was not budging and i diidnt wanna strip it. Ever heard cases of belt breaking? I also did not have a new union piece for the oil cooler so i used to old one. Not sure if that will cause troubles down the road.
Thanks for the video.
Well the belt probably will be ok for a loonnng time... but the union?.? I don’t know..... that was not that good of an idea li leave it in there... they leak allot....
I attempted this last weekend with horrific results. Everything went fine as I followed this video. I had changed my turbo last june So I did'nt think I would have an issue. I bolted new pump up changed Orings in Hoses but it was When I changed The Belt with the lower left hand threaded small bolt on the Balance Shaft. As I was Torquing the Bolt I had the engine crank bolt connected to a breaker bar so it would not spin. As I torqued the belt was moving So I didnt realize what was about to happen. I wound up snapping the bolt off in the balance shaft. I now have the car at Audi and Im faced with a possible 3K Bill to Repair it as instead of Dropping Transmission or removing engine they feel it would be better to replace the balance shafts. The Area is So tight though to try and retreive whats left of the bolt is almost impossible while the engine is mounted as the block does just that it blocks access to try to use a screw extractor. The Tech at audi is a Friend of mine and sand they NEVER change the Belt as they are under little if no stress or tension. They simply remove belt from top Cog of Water pump. I have over 100K So I thought it was the right thing to do. If anyone at Edge Motors has ever encountered this type of mess and maybe has An Idea of How to extract that Bolt while engine still mounted please reply. DIY on these cars can be very expensive if you do not heed all warnings. Thanks
Well, I did say maybe 100 times to be careful not to break this bolt....
I did break them before... if no one messed with it so far, they are easily extractable... the bolt hole Is longer then the bolt, so when you tighten the bolt and break the hat off it, the shaft of the bolt that is in the hole will be lose. So if you take a 90^ pick tool you can easily drive the bolt out ....
Thank you for sharing your story and I feel sorry for your cost caused by a mistake. Always be careful with a small bolt, an aluminum bolt, or a rusty bolt.
That bolt is listed as 10Nm plus a 1/4 turn - so not a lot of torque to get it tight to spec.
i hate this engine, every job is ridiculously complicated. 20v turbo was soo much easier to work on
I have just replaced an Audi Q3 water pump. But the water is not circulating. It looks like the thermostat is not opening. It´s an electronic one. Does anyone has an idea of what might be going on? Can anyone help, please?
what is the mileage that you generally have to replace the water pump/thermostat?
No set mileage, the Lowe’s mileage I have seen 65k and know some cars in 200k that never had it done
I think if do the coolant flush on time take care the car I don't think it need to be replace in low miles.
Is the 2011 TSFI 2.0L the same as the 2009 TSFI 2.9L?
Almost
Can you do a video on a 3.2L B7 please?
How do you apply tension on the belt so it won’t come off ?
While putting it on or to stay in place ?
EDGEMOTORS To stay in place.
I replaced the pump with new belt new driving gear and after a few weeks the belt slide off. The belt rubbed into the plastic cover until the cover couldn’t hold it .
The. You did something wrong there, the driving pulley have a ridge that holds the belt on the pulley, and the belt tightens by the pulleys as the driving shaft (balance shaft) has a cone on it, so when you tighten the bolt the pulley slides on the cone and tightens the belt.
EDGEMOTORS Now that you are saying that I think maybe I put the pulley backwards si the ridge is on the inside . I appreciate your reply !
I didn’t say you put the pulley on backwards... it would not be possible....
I said that there is probably something that went wrong:)
What year?
Is $890 including tax a lot for this exact job? I have 2010 audi a4
That’s about what it cost if oem parts from the dealer are used, if aftermarket parts used then it’s several hundred less...
Thank you
how much do you charge for that job
Give us a call for an estimate.
845-269-3846
How long did this job take?... Local Mechanic is telling me it will be about 6 hours to complete this task. Just asking for my own personal knowledge... great video
That’s about how much we charge for it....
Don’t forget, it takes us allot faster after doing many many times, and spending hundreds of thousands on tools...
thank you!
I might be tackling this myself, if I Wanna save over $900 dollars; Is it possible for you to give me the list of tools needed/ the ones you used for the job ?
If you don't have his tools which were bare minimum, you don't need to work on a car
Where can I order this pump.. A4 2017 Audi
latrisha Spencer Your A4 should still be under warranty. Not to mention that the pump on a 2017 shouldn’t be giving you any issues at all at this point in time unless you’ve added 40,000 a year for the last 3 years. Or around there. Of course you’ll always have a faulty unit here and there but overall, you shouldn’t have any issues. We own a 2014 A4 with 97,000 miles on it and it’s been flawless. Only major repair was a alternator replacement. 🙌🏼