Cool mods, but there are a few downsides that people should take into account. On the front the front tires rub a lot on the lowest position when crawling and barely rub at the top position. On the back, you can use the higher position to disable the lights. I normally run mine with the back all the way down so my lights work and the front on the higher position so the tires don't rub. The tabs have loosened up a lot since I got it. FYI, here's a cool light mod. On the body, move the headlight plug down one so it's in the DLR slot then move the brake lights into the headlight slot. The headlight switch on the remote actually has 3 positions. With the above setup, but turning it halfway you get the headlights only and going all the way gets you taillights also (you lose brake lights by doing this). As a future mod I'm going to replace the rear blinkers for some white LEDs and plug it into the back slot so I'll have backup lights.
My system had nothing in the brake light slot. I had backup, which only works in the f/b/r dip selection. Not critical, just informing. I LOVE the mount mod, though.
Is it possible to raise the magnet bed on the frame or lower it from the body so it'll still hold the rear end down in the "high" position? I clipped the rear tabs but still want to run it in the high position unfortunately lol
Same wheelbase for sure. That body usually comes with wheel wells attached to the body so that needs to be removed. The matching wheelbase will make it possible IMHO.
Sure, that's what I do. The thing is, one has to do both at a time. Get passed the magnet, get passed the first notch, get passed the second notch. Not impossible but not obvious either for most.
Your RC UA-cam channel just keeps getting better
Thank you. I'm starting to figure it out!!
While I have had no issues removing the body, this is awesome, and will definitely help a ton of people out.
Exactly, that is the goal. Folks with soft hands. :)
Cool mods, but there are a few downsides that people should take into account. On the front the front tires rub a lot on the lowest position when crawling and barely rub at the top position. On the back, you can use the higher position to disable the lights. I normally run mine with the back all the way down so my lights work and the front on the higher position so the tires don't rub. The tabs have loosened up a lot since I got it.
FYI, here's a cool light mod. On the body, move the headlight plug down one so it's in the DLR slot then move the brake lights into the headlight slot. The headlight switch on the remote actually has 3 positions. With the above setup, but turning it halfway you get the headlights only and going all the way gets you taillights also (you lose brake lights by doing this). As a future mod I'm going to replace the rear blinkers for some white LEDs and plug it into the back slot so I'll have backup lights.
My system had nothing in the brake light slot. I had backup, which only works in the f/b/r dip selection. Not critical, just informing. I LOVE the mount mod, though.
Your FMS FCX10 looks awesome and it's a wonderful wet adventure! 👍🤘👏 Many thanks for sharing that adventure! 🤠💯🙆♂
Glad you enjoyed it
You got me into RC rock crawling and 2 years later I am still hooked haha
So good to hear. Adds smiles to this life.
This tip and trick is sooooo worth it. Thanks for sharing!!!!!
You are so welcome!
Thank you!
Is it possible to raise the magnet bed on the frame or lower it from the body so it'll still hold the rear end down in the "high" position? I clipped the rear tabs but still want to run it in the high position unfortunately lol
Could you do a review on the New RGT EX86170 PRO 1/10 brushless
We like the struggle better then holes in the body ❤
The struggle is real! Yeah, no way I'm drilling holes on my new green body.
Nice mods mine is a day away from arriving. 👍
Can't wait! You are gonna be so stoked. Report back please.
Has anyone had issues removing the stock wheels? I removed the nut but it seems like the wheels dont want to pop off the axles.
Pero no le queda el cuerpo del trx4 verdad?
Does the TRX4 Defender Body fit it?
Same wheelbase for sure. That body usually comes with wheel wells attached to the body so that needs to be removed. The matching wheelbase will make it possible IMHO.
Defender is 12.8. I believe this body is 12.3
This FMS FCX10 chassis is 12.8 inch as well.
Really helpfull!😊👍
Glad you think so! Really seeing the improvement in usability too on our end.
@@RCReviewChannel That's a good part of the fun, love watching your videos🤗
Oh Snap!
Snap-on!!
Instead of cutting maybe just heat shrink the 1st notch so it slides over?
I did try that but it wouldn't go in the chassis hole. One could bore out the chassis frame mount holes but I didn't try that.
I would of loved this if they made this body swappable with the Fj40 body
That's the hardbody I believe. I'm sure a lot of bodies are coming for this chassis this year. I hope that's one of them.
I don't have any problem removing the body. You just got to press and lift at the right place.
Sure, that's what I do. The thing is, one has to do both at a time. Get passed the magnet, get passed the first notch, get passed the second notch.
Not impossible but not obvious either for most.
🇩🇰🇩🇰👍🤩🇩🇰🇩🇰
Ciao!!
first ;)))))
Sir speedy!