Also, the single most enlightening and empowering item to getting a carbureted engine tuned right is to install a wideband o2 gauge. the video linked below goes through the installation of one, and has THE PART LINKS to everything I use on screen. i especially like the "no weld" exhaust bungs - works really well for folks like me who dont have a welder!!! check it out, video linked here - same set up i have in all my cars >>> ua-cam.com/video/YiUDltHKnLE/v-deo.html
Before you install a wideband you need to put that air cleaner back on the VW it came from. I clicked on your wideband link and at that time your pickup had a proper full size air cleaner. For some reason between then and now you decided to install a 300 cfm air cleaner on a 500 cfm carb.
65sohc actually this is an excerpt from an older video. And I don’t drive with that little air cleaner - it’s literally just to simulate an air cleaner restriction for tuning. I probably should have said that in the video. With the full sized air cleaner, a guy can’t make adjustments unless it’s removed. And at idle, you don’t need all the cfm. Here’s an ironic item - that’s actually the air cleaner that’s inside of hillbourne scoops like what you see on blown engines. Dudes actually drive around with little air cleaners like that on huge v8s - how insane is that
@@ThunderHead289 Thanks for the clarification. You're absolutely right about having to remove the air cleaner to make adjustments. Among other tweaks I've been trying to get the idle just right on my 66 Mustang. I'm after the maximum lopey idle without it being on the verge of dying. I carry a screwdriver so I can make fine adjustments, but that big air cleaner gets hot! On that subject my Mustang is a roller 302 with a Summit carb, thanks to you. Best carb I've ever had. As far as dialing in the idle , for some reason it seems to take about 10 miles of driving before it settles in. I set it at about 800 when the engine is fully warm, after say 5-6 miles. But then after another 3-4 miles it settles in at 900-950 and the lope is much less noticeable. If I then reduce it to 800 where it sounds good the next day it will be on the verge of stalling. Any thoughts on why it takes so long to decide where it wants to idle?
@@65sohc Not one hundred percent sure on the Summit carbs but Edelbrock carbs have a fast idle adjustment screw, underneath the regular idle speed screw. You have to push throttle wide open to see it underneath the throttle lever.
@@ThunderHead289 That'll have to be done tomorrow. :D Been working on the old Diesel all day. But I'm pretty sure its just 180 off. LoL! I don't know gas at all.
I have Been fighting a ‘69 bronco with a post ‘94 351 with issues dialing in timing. Hopefully this video has given me the key. I’ll find out tomorrow morning. Thank you!
guys like us with 302/351 need this. dont know how many vids ive seen people get mixed up with 302/351W firing order...oops!! that last one was the best. just like the old static timing with points and a test light trick.
Is it correct, that when you stop turning the distributor the exact moment the spark comes up, basically the timing is set to the setting you did on the harmonic balancer earlier?
Great video, doing this for the first time, the info here will be a big help although would be great to get at that front bolt to manually turn, might get my son to crawl in there to do that.:-)
Why do you adjust “BTDC” as opposed to “0” degrees? That is the only thing I’ve never understood. Another of your vids -a friends ‘66 Stag was set at 15* BTDC to start. Why not zero degrees to start? Please help. (Need to do this on my ‘68 Stang 289).
Watch the ignition timing playlist on my channel page - I go very in depth. If you grasp 1/2 of what I explain, you will know more than most all folks out there.
I see a lot of guys saying that the rotor should face the back of the motor when dropped in. I see yours is at about three o’clock. Why is that better?
The only reason it matters where you decide cylinder number 1 plug wire to be is plug wire layout in the engine bay - cylinder 1 behind or bias towards drivers side makes it such that the plug wires can be loomed nicely in the engine bay
Very well - I did end up switching to my f100 for power tour, so I have put it on hold till after your - disappointing, but with my work schedule it was the realistic decision. Hoping to have it ready for the goodguys in Des Moines!
hey man have quick question i have a 96 ford f150 5.0 302 pulled dizzy without marking it no marks on balancer eigther pulled #1 sparkplug put tdc tool in then piston stop made gap marked middle (i have true tdc at this point) i assume put dizzy in made sure pointing to #1 b4 putting it in started truck just turns over does NOT fire at all just prum prum prum sound w.e i even check if im 180 off idk whats going on ive tried everything any ideas? or help great videos bro!
I love that pertronix 3 only thing is if that vacum pod goes out on you the dist must come by out and you need to take it apart to replace it . Why they made it like that ? It happened to me on a long drive and I didn't have a timing light or wrench to adjust my initial only alternative was turn idle screw up and drive 150 Miles in a 8 mpg truck on 8 degrees of timing I put be a pertronix 3 module in a motorcraft dist easier to change pod out
The downside is the stock distributor has a lazy timing curve - I usually run ported vacuum and set initial timing for idle and recurve distributor accordingly - most rigs like all timing in by 3000 or so, which the pertronix allows for. I’ve personally never had a vacuum advance canister fail on them, but that’s just my experience out of the thousands of units out there
@@ThunderHead289it's common when mine went out I looked it up on Google there were a host of people like me with fails although ported at idle your not using the diaphragm yeah I had 2 go the pertronix and the motor craft I had it hooked to the full manifold on the carb don't know why that was but both were the non ajustable kind . I was running a 2 bbl the primary are a little larger Holly 350 cfm it was pulling about 21-22 hg not enough to ruin the diaphragm around 12 in gear 600/650 cfm not sure why it failed? any how I see you have old 250 now I asked a few questions about the 390 be interested to see if you mess with that for performance later, at rebuild I had the comp DEH 265 put in have headers and I ordered the Edelbrock RPM 390 intake on backorder now till October I'm still deciding on carb I was thinking 650 rpm I know alot of guys say do not over carb a 390 . 600 probably would work out great as well I ran ported never be had a issue although full manifold they went out .
my 53 dodge m37 still running on orig dist. almost 70 yrs talk about depend ability. also an o9 dodge ram 1500 best trk i have ever owned very low maint needed but tuff on gas..i am 88 now so i have ownwed a few
lol My room mate was having trouble installing the distributor in his 351 and was looking up a way to see if I could help and then he said said he did as soon as I started this video.
I know this is an old video but I’m having trouble and I don’t know what to do. 1956 olds 324. She idles beautifully at 21 inches of Mercury but once I start to give Her some gas, the needle starts going crazy on my vacuum gauge. And if I drive Her, she’ll shift into all 4 gear but it feels like I’m about to run out of gas. Is there anyone out there that can help me out??? Thanks
I noticed you didn't connect the vacuum advance. I will never buy another Pertronix distributor. The supplied advance canister gives 19 degrees of vacuum advance which is ridiculous. This means that with the normal 36 degrees of mechanical advance it is running 55 degrees during cruise. Pertronix GM distributors come with an adjustable canister but for some reason Fords don't so I ordered one. Despite the fact that it is only held on by a few screws, because of a shitty design the distributor must be removed and completely disassembled to install a simple canister. OK, whatever. I did that. Got the engine running, went to adjust the amount of vacuum advance and, boom, it breaks. I look of the Summit reviews and find that this is quite common. I notify Summit, and to their credit they offer to replace it, minus shipping which is a large percentage of cost. I'll be damned if I'm going to tear down the distributor again and have the thing probably break anyway.
Charlie Brown it’s not jacked - I run a full 14 inch wide 3 inch tall air cleaner, but you need to make your adjustments with the restriction of an air filter - most people just leave the carb open to get to the adjustments - I put this guy on when tuning the idle/low speed stuff. 👍 (It’s what’s inside a hillborne scoop actually - you know, the scoop they use on 6-71 blowers)
@@ThunderHead289 Hate to be the one to break it to you but internal combustion engines preceded the internet. How did 'everyone start' back then? My point is, which you clearly missed, is if someone cant be bothered to open up a book or do some *READING* about timing they shouldnt be working on cars.
@@ThunderAppeal they say a picture is worth 1000 words, a video is worth more than that even yet. Everyone learns in their own way - I also went the hard way as did folks of the past. I just try to provide folks with the info in a more direct manner.
@@ThunderAppeal the wise look to the stars the fools critisize the finger pointing to them. Delivery of info is irrelevant emphasis is on what you take away from the info.
not bad overall, but should be noted on SEFI like the mustang with fuel injection is the rotor has to be pointed to number 1 on the cap as the injectors are timed with the wheel inside the distributor and it will not runn right as the injectors are firing at a different time then the plugs
Many thanks to you for this series you are one of the few people I trust that knows WTH they are doing AND WHY. I especially like that you question conventional wisdom and put it the test in your 302. Carbs and distributors are becoming a lost art but you are keeping the knowledge alive. There's a satisfaction in being able to make an engine run nice without a computer. Using your tips I discovered a flaw in how I have been setting up my carbs for years and now I just got done rebuilding my 4 barrel Autolite and getting my 1965 Mustang running again after sitting for 20 years. Cool!
I hope one day I can "properly" set up my 77 with the 460. I basically hooked up a vacuum gauge and advanced the timing until I had optimum pressure. It runs good and it doesn't ping under highway driving but you just never know. Doesn't have the best take off from a stop but will get up and go at higher speeds. Can't afford the O2 gauge just yet but I enjoy feeling it out and making adjustments. You make me want a 3 speed again like I had in my old 73 with a 302. I enjoy the videos, keep em coming!
i installed the distributor and it started! 1968 F500 300 CID inline 6 cylinder. Been watching a lot of your starting old cars and trucks videos over the past few weeks!
Another great learning video, I especially like the TH289 trick to get the distributor close using a plug. Something that went over my head though is at 12:55 you said you can tell it's a truck cam by the vacuum. I don't understand that, can you explain or a "follow up for dummies" video about the differences between truck and car engines as they pertain to performance?
Stock cams make more vacuum than choppy race cams. This is why people who have choppy cams start running into problems with items that operate on vacuum...like brakes. Choppy cams sound cool. But not having any brakes is not cool.
Brian Skinner I haven’t decided yet - a few very good contenders have popped up! This has been a rebuilding year so that I don’t have so many projects in progress hanging over my head!!!
It’s an excerpt! From 2018 when I brought the f100 back to life. Been having a lot of questions lately on my Facebook forum group, so I made this to post there - and it’s just good tech that gets lost in the original video! I’m very active on the Facebook page 👍
@@ThunderHead289 Glad you reposted this excerpt! Just installed a Pertronix Flamethrower III dizzy and coil, but while it's connected I'm getting around 8.5v at the positive side of the coil (actually whole ignition power circuit shows 8.5v) . No resistor wire inline and a new battery. Maybe I have a bad unit, bad ground, or will it show low till ignition?
My boss was at Sema in 2018 & met a distributor supplier from China that admitted they supply distributors to MSD. Times have changed.....MSD aren't the be all and end all
I do have a counter argument to that as my engineering group does similar things - although made overseas, they are probably made to a higher standard and thoroughly tested, hence the higher price and minimal failures - the 50 dollar units on the other hand are just slapped out with minimal QC time.
@@ThunderHead289 totally agree, there are different levels of quality coming out of not only China but Asia. Not doubting MSD, they would be high quality, but sadly it's the way of the world, sourcing from a cheap labour country yet retail pricing doesn't reflect that.
@@moorabindanot everything Chinese is bad lol I have to agree. Borg Warner opened up some factories in China for turbochargers a few years back, a vendor started reviewing it and despite being different materials, the guy was saying the Chinese one might be better depending on your application
It's funny I have a 4 cylinder carburated small truck. Nobody puts in tons of work on carburated 4 bsngers but I thinknits well worth it. Far more reliable then modern junk. Good for a daily driver
Really appreciate your videos! I am currently working on getting my 3000gt to fire back up. People have suggested it sounds like the timing going to try some of your tricks to it. My latest video is where its struggling to start if your curious perhaps you might have some insight on whats going on with it?
Thunderhead289! I’m buying a used 351W for my 1980 Bronco (old 302 is tired) and want to know where a solid parts list could be found so I can convert the 351W EFI roller to carb. Any tips where I can find that would be greatly appreciated
I remember your galaxie having a 289. My 64 also has a 289 that I’ll be rebuilding this summer. Any good choices for cams? I’m looking at the comp xe262h. Seems like a healthy midrange cam. I’m not looking to spin it very high. Just a high compression torque motor.
So what is roughly the correct mechanical timing at idle and the with the vacuum distributor should be at with idle? My 81 f100 is at mechanical 11 degrees and off the chart with the vacuum plugged in. Near 30 tho
I have a 351 W in my 69 cougar. It has PS and AC. I'm trying to verify timing, but I just don't see any timing marks using my timing light. Do you have any tips to verify? Also, my car only seems to fire up if I have the distributor turned clockwise as far as it can go. I tried to pull it out and move back a tooth, but that kept it from firing altogether.
I have a ???? Someone told me the distributor rotor button should be facing towards the back of the carburetor, and you are instructing that it should be facing towards the #1 cylinder. I'm confused ford 302
and the old 350 chevy and old 302 order is the same and the 4/7 swap chevy cam is the same as old flat head ford. its written down different cuz the different way cylinders are numbered. if you draw it out you will see. its mind boggling. A day in class that makes you look at everything different.
Just swapped a straight 6 for a V8 in an 82 C10. Trying to get the timing right is killing me. Everything seems right until I shut it off. It wants to over run for a few seconds.. I can't get it out . Please help if you can. It's a stock 305 with a mild cam, hei ignition and a 750 elderbrock carburetor. I'm sure the carburetor is way to big.
Carbs way too big, but your initial timing is provably too low causing you to compensate with the curb idle screw to get your idle rpm up. If you advance initial timing, you can lower the throttle blades and it will likely go away
@@ThunderHead289 I thought the carb was to big... But the engine was gifted to me.. what size do you think would be appropriate? I'm thinking something a tad larger than a lawnmower carburetor ... Oh.. I really appreciate your reply back..
I'm going try it your way thanks for the video nice footage you make it look so easy and it probably is. I'm not a mechanic but I try.. I'm tired of paying people to mess up my car when they don't know jack I might as well learn myself and fix it right for free 💯 I paid a guy 10,000 to totally trash my 302 that I just had built on top of that he turned a GT 5.0 into a flat tappet like who does that it suppose to be the other way around I thought. 501 lift that doesn't even lope sounds like a regular lincoln 5.0 smh no power at all..
I have a 1990 Lincoln Town car base model Windsor v8 I'm guessing it's the 302. Can you tell me the pros and cons of upgrading the distributor to HEI. any advice given would be greatly appreciated thank you.
Big fan of the channel but it seems you leave alot of stuff out or your vids might not be for newbies. I had to watch another video to figure out the firing order is actually on the block. And there are numbers above the spark plugs. Out of all the videos I watched from you I never saw you explain that simple fact. But again your channel might not be geared to newbies like myself. Still a fan though.
New sub👍🏽 having a hard time adjusting mine , lost my timing when i swapped out my intake manifold gaskets and now im having a hard time getting it just right where it was😓 for some reason now my volts dont stay up in 14.6 like they used to they drop to about 13.8-14.2 and just feels like it wants to die , but if i turn the alternator some the voltage go up or drop , new alt and battery btw its a 86 chevy c10 with a 305
this video is just what i was looking for. Do you have a video if your car has no timing marks? I have a 68 cougar with no timing marks. Can i just find tdc and put timing tape in that spot?
Steel is a material. Cast is a method. Cast iron, cast steel, and cast stainless are all common. I think you meant to describe cast vs machined from a billet.
Thanks Luke for sending me this video on your Facebook page! I'm sure all the tips provided here will get me back on track and my Dad's '67 Mustang back on the road.
I hasn’t machined my spacer yet, and that’s nothing but a 3/8 cap and pipe nipple with a rubber hose blocking off the heater. Way better than the block off caps since they explode after a couple years. So yes, really.
@@ThunderHead289 my good friend I say this because if I see it others see it. I build custom cars for tons of people I'm maticulous it caught my eye. Not knocking you at all I'm nuts over details
So I am at the 8:56 mark and when I put the negative lead from my multimeter onto the battery and the positive lead onto the coil positive I do not get any voltage reading (With key on). If I take off the negative battery terminal and then measure I get twelve volts on the positive terminal (With key off). So am I looking at a short to ground somewhere. If I measure voltage with negative battery terminal off and the key on then I get 5.56 volts on the positive side of the coil, I am assuming this is because the ballister is dropping the voltage close to six volts to keep the coil cool. If you have any suggestions as to why I am not seeing the twelve volts like your video then please let me know. This project is a 1975 Ford F250 with a modified 390 GT motor that is now a 428.
Tells you a lot - engine load as it relates to throttle position is the biggest. You can also see if the engine isn’t running smooth, or if you have uneven fuel charge. A lot of indicators of engine health really.
What are the stock gears for a 74? I have a '79 with granny gear that I would love to ride exactly like this. I am looking into the SST five speed Tremec (for four wheel drive) same engine.
just my 2 cents worth idle screw is a sperate adjustment from mix screw mix adj amout of gas at idle is flowing into intake manifold the wayy we used to adj this was set a class of water on the at idle the water will shake due to eng vibration adj mix till water stop shaking try it works
@@thequietestengine Assuming number 1 is the cylinder that is referenced with the timing light, the best way is to verify top-dead center (TDC) as the intake closes. Both valves are closed at TDC. I've used whistles, but the whistle has whistled during exhaust stroke. This is the best procedure to use on the cylinder that is used for timing.
I don’t have a timing light but i loosen up the distributor and rotate it. Tuning by ear if you will . Is this bad? Should i properly retime the engine? Im having extended cranking but I don’t think this is the issue
Iv tried tuning by ear, then to check my work I came back with a timing light and o2 gauge to see the difference - even with all my experience on this stuff myself, having the right tools for the job wins every time. I always am out of adjustment comparatively - it’s not a big turn to get 10 degrees change, and if you aren’t careful, your total timing will be well over 40!!!!!
ThunderHead289 Luckily for me I don’t follow the LS engines and don’t know much about them. I’m a square body fan, which is why I enjoy your videos. Just about everything you cover applies to any engine of that era. Also, re-reading my comment, I should’ve put a comma in after ‘damn’. That came out wrong. All my vehicles are Ford except my ‘80 GMC square body.
Also, the single most enlightening and empowering item to getting a carbureted engine tuned right is to install a wideband o2 gauge. the video linked below goes through the installation of one, and has THE PART LINKS to everything I use on screen. i especially like the "no weld" exhaust bungs - works really well for folks like me who dont have a welder!!!
check it out, video linked here - same set up i have in all my cars >>> ua-cam.com/video/YiUDltHKnLE/v-deo.html
Before you install a wideband you need to put that air cleaner back on the VW it came from. I clicked on your wideband link and at that time your pickup had a proper full size air cleaner. For some reason between then and now you decided to install a 300 cfm air cleaner on a 500 cfm carb.
65sohc actually this is an excerpt from an older video. And I don’t drive with that little air cleaner - it’s literally just to simulate an air cleaner restriction for tuning. I probably should have said that in the video. With the full sized air cleaner, a guy can’t make adjustments unless it’s removed. And at idle, you don’t need all the cfm.
Here’s an ironic item - that’s actually the air cleaner that’s inside of hillbourne scoops like what you see on blown engines. Dudes actually drive around with little air cleaners like that on huge v8s - how insane is that
@@ThunderHead289 Thanks for the clarification. You're absolutely right about having to remove the air cleaner to make adjustments. Among other tweaks I've been trying to get the idle just right on my 66 Mustang. I'm after the maximum lopey idle without it being on the verge of dying. I carry a screwdriver so I can make fine adjustments, but that big air cleaner gets hot! On that subject my Mustang is a roller 302 with a Summit carb, thanks to you. Best carb I've ever had. As far as dialing in the idle , for some reason it seems to take about 10 miles of driving before it settles in. I set it at about 800 when the engine is fully warm, after say 5-6 miles. But then after another 3-4 miles it settles in at 900-950 and the lope is much less noticeable. If I then reduce it to 800 where it sounds good the next day it will be on the verge of stalling. Any thoughts on why it takes so long to decide where it wants to idle?
@@65sohc Not one hundred percent sure on the Summit carbs but Edelbrock carbs have a fast idle adjustment screw, underneath the regular idle speed screw. You have to push throttle wide open to see it underneath the throttle lever.
ok is there a way to send u pics of a crazy wooden yes wooden rig i made i need so help with timing for a modified 460
I like how the old rig sets off car alarms
I thought I was the washer shim king. You got me beat on that alternator.
I have done 30 washers on a chevy 283 alternator brackett before. Shit gets iffy, when sleeves go missing.
😅😅😅😅
Ahahah, the honda going off at the end was priceless. It's like the whiny kid in highschool that always had something to interject with.
Boy, just in the nick of time! i needed this so i can correct the timing on my LeMans
Hit er with the timing light!
@@ThunderHead289 That'll have to be done tomorrow. :D Been working on the old Diesel all day. But I'm pretty sure its just 180 off. LoL! I don't know gas at all.
I have Been fighting a ‘69 bronco with a post ‘94 351 with issues dialing in timing. Hopefully this video has given me the key. I’ll find out tomorrow morning. Thank you!
guys like us with 302/351 need this. dont know how many vids ive seen people get mixed up with 302/351W firing order...oops!! that last one was the best. just like the old static timing with points and a test light trick.
Been installing distributors since I was 13 years old.
Great video.
If I want to advance my timing on 351W would I turn it clockwise or Counter clockwise?
got you beat iwas 10 yrs got i ---5hp elgin out board motor in a tank of water played with ever day i was hooked im 88 now
That stack of washers on the alternator had me dying 😂 gotta do what you gotta do.
Is it correct, that when you stop turning the distributor the exact moment the spark comes up, basically the timing is set to the setting you did on the harmonic balancer earlier?
Always good info here.
Great video, doing this for the first time, the info here will be a big help although would be great to get at that front bolt to manually turn, might get my son to crawl in there to do that.:-)
Ive really wanted to build up an old ford f150 with a 351 since i was about 14, i want a “brick nose” truck the body style pre 87
Why do you adjust “BTDC” as opposed to “0” degrees? That is the only thing I’ve never understood. Another of your vids -a friends ‘66 Stag was set at 15* BTDC to start. Why not zero degrees to start? Please help. (Need to do this on my ‘68 Stang 289).
Watch the ignition timing playlist on my channel page - I go very in depth. If you grasp 1/2 of what I explain, you will know more than most all folks out there.
I see a lot of guys saying that the rotor should face the back of the motor when dropped in. I see yours is at about three o’clock. Why is that better?
The only reason it matters where you decide cylinder number 1 plug wire to be is plug wire layout in the engine bay - cylinder 1 behind or bias towards drivers side makes it such that the plug wires can be loomed nicely in the engine bay
Good video. I enjoy all of your stuff... How is the Galaxie progressing?
Very well - I did end up switching to my f100 for power tour, so I have put it on hold till after your - disappointing, but with my work schedule it was the realistic decision.
Hoping to have it ready for the goodguys in Des Moines!
@@ThunderHead289 Best of luck... I have found that rushing projects creates mistakes I had to go back and correct...stay safe.
Do those headers clear mechanical clutch linkage, and if so what brand? Looking for my 1980 Bronco
hey man have quick question i have a 96 ford f150 5.0 302 pulled dizzy without marking it no marks on balancer eigther pulled #1 sparkplug put tdc tool in then piston stop made gap marked middle (i have true tdc at this point) i assume put dizzy in made sure pointing to #1 b4 putting it in started truck just turns over does NOT fire at all just prum prum prum sound w.e i even check if im 180 off idk whats going on ive tried everything any ideas? or help great videos bro!
I love that pertronix 3 only thing is if that vacum pod goes out on you the dist must come by out and you need to take it apart to replace it .
Why they made it like that ? It happened to me on a long drive and I didn't have a timing light or wrench to adjust my initial only alternative was turn idle screw up and drive 150 Miles in a 8 mpg truck on 8 degrees of timing I put be a pertronix 3 module in a motorcraft dist easier to change pod out
The downside is the stock distributor has a lazy timing curve - I usually run ported vacuum and set initial timing for idle and recurve distributor accordingly - most rigs like all timing in by 3000 or so, which the pertronix allows for. I’ve personally never had a vacuum advance canister fail on them, but that’s just my experience out of the thousands of units out there
@@ThunderHead289it's common when mine went out I looked it up on Google there were a host of people like me with fails although ported at idle your not using the diaphragm yeah I had 2 go the pertronix and the motor craft I had it hooked to the full manifold on the carb don't know why that was but both were the non ajustable kind . I was running a 2 bbl the primary are a little larger Holly 350 cfm it was pulling about 21-22 hg not enough to ruin the diaphragm around 12 in gear 600/650 cfm not sure why it failed? any how I see you have old 250 now I asked a few questions about the 390 be interested to see if you mess with that for performance later, at rebuild I had the comp DEH 265 put in have headers and I ordered the Edelbrock RPM 390 intake on backorder now till October I'm still deciding on carb I was thinking 650 rpm I know alot of guys say do not over carb a 390 .
600 probably would work out great as well I ran ported never be had a issue although full manifold they went out .
my 53 dodge m37 still running on orig dist. almost 70 yrs talk about depend ability. also an o9 dodge ram 1500 best trk i have ever owned very low maint needed but tuff on gas..i am 88 now so i have ownwed a few
Ppl say to remove all spark plugs before finding the tdc with the compression method because it can after something
It just makes the engine easier to turn over with your thumb on the spark plug hole.
What do you think about using a transmission cooler for a fuel cooler? Like between the pump and the carb ?
Were you dropped on your head at birth?
lol My room mate was having trouble installing the distributor in his 351 and was looking up a way to see if I could help and then he said said he did as soon as I started this video.
I know this is an old video but I’m having trouble and I don’t know what to do.
1956 olds 324. She idles beautifully at 21 inches of Mercury but once I start to give Her some gas, the needle starts going crazy on my vacuum gauge. And if I drive Her, she’ll shift into all 4 gear but it feels like I’m about to run out of gas.
Is there anyone out there that can help me out??? Thanks
@10:35 i tried that and got no spark on the plug. Am i not on tdc?
Did you ever figure that out? Same issue here. I don’t even get a spark out of the brand new flamethrower coil. Verified 12 volts with key on
@@marcosesparzajr.7404 what my mechanic ended up having me do was to keep swapping my spark plugs
I noticed you didn't connect the vacuum advance. I will never buy another Pertronix distributor. The supplied advance canister gives 19 degrees of vacuum advance which is ridiculous. This means that with the normal 36 degrees of mechanical advance it is running 55 degrees during cruise. Pertronix GM distributors come with an adjustable canister but for some reason Fords don't so I ordered one. Despite the fact that it is only held on by a few screws, because of a shitty design the distributor must be removed and completely disassembled to install a simple canister. OK, whatever. I did that. Got the engine running, went to adjust the amount of vacuum advance and, boom, it breaks. I look of the Summit reviews and find that this is quite common. I notify Summit, and to their credit they offer to replace it, minus shipping which is a large percentage of cost. I'll be damned if I'm going to tear down the distributor again and have the thing probably break anyway.
With all due respect, that's not a trick, that's called static timing, It one of those things that over time for some reason has been forgotten...
I completely agree with you
At one time, long ago, before it had a name, it was a guys trick.
Can you talk loader please
its hard to focus on your point of video with such a jacked air filter assembly
Charlie Brown it’s not jacked - I run a full 14 inch wide 3 inch tall air cleaner, but you need to make your adjustments with the restriction of an air filter - most people just leave the carb open to get to the adjustments - I put this guy on when tuning the idle/low speed stuff. 👍
(It’s what’s inside a hillborne scoop actually - you know, the scoop they use on 6-71 blowers)
So super critical of you Charlie. You missed a great tutorial
My woman is giving me a hard time. figured ide spread the joy lol
Dude, Iv been right where you are a lot lately because I have “too many projects”
She’s right though!!!!
🍺🍺 ...dissolved that project years ago and got a couple of dogs
If someone needs a video on how to set timing they really shouldnt be working on engines at all.
Or cars altogether.
Everyone starts somewhere, chappy
@@ThunderHead289 Hate to be the one to break it to you but internal combustion engines preceded the internet.
How did 'everyone start' back then?
My point is, which you clearly missed, is if someone cant be bothered to open up a book or do some *READING* about timing they shouldnt be working on cars.
@@ThunderAppeal they say a picture is worth 1000 words, a video is worth more than that even yet.
Everyone learns in their own way - I also went the hard way as did folks of the past. I just try to provide folks with the info in a more direct manner.
@@ThunderAppeal the wise look to the stars the fools critisize the finger pointing to them. Delivery of info is irrelevant emphasis is on what you take away from the info.
3:46
not bad overall, but should be noted on SEFI like the mustang with fuel injection is the rotor has to be pointed to number 1 on the cap as the injectors are timed with the wheel inside the distributor and it will not runn right as the injectors are firing at a different time then the plugs
that truck would be my daily driver for life.
Many thanks to you for this series you are one of the few people I trust that knows WTH they are doing AND WHY. I especially like that you question conventional wisdom and put it the test in your 302. Carbs and distributors are becoming a lost art but you are keeping the knowledge alive. There's a satisfaction in being able to make an engine run nice without a computer. Using your tips I discovered a flaw in how I have been setting up my carbs for years and now I just got done rebuilding my 4 barrel Autolite and getting my 1965 Mustang running again after sitting for 20 years. Cool!
I hope one day I can "properly" set up my 77 with the 460. I basically hooked up a vacuum gauge and advanced the timing until I had optimum pressure. It runs good and it doesn't ping under highway driving but you just never know. Doesn't have the best take off from a stop but will get up and go at higher speeds. Can't afford the O2 gauge just yet but I enjoy feeling it out and making adjustments. You make me want a 3 speed again like I had in my old 73 with a 302. I enjoy the videos, keep em coming!
i installed the distributor and it started! 1968 F500 300 CID inline 6 cylinder. Been watching a lot of your starting old cars and trucks videos over the past few weeks!
Another great learning video, I especially like the TH289 trick to get the distributor close using a plug. Something that went over my head though is at 12:55 you said you can tell it's a truck cam by the vacuum. I don't understand that, can you explain or a "follow up for dummies" video about the differences between truck and car engines as they pertain to performance?
Stock cams make more vacuum than choppy race cams. This is why people who have choppy cams start running into problems with items that operate on vacuum...like brakes. Choppy cams sound cool. But not having any brakes is not cool.
Awesome video Luke. Are you planning on getting another rotstang? Lol miss the ole rotstang
Brian Skinner I haven’t decided yet - a few very good contenders have popped up! This has been a rebuilding year so that I don’t have so many projects in progress hanging over my head!!!
This feels familiar... is this a reupload?
It’s an excerpt!
From 2018 when I brought the f100 back to life. Been having a lot of questions lately on my Facebook forum group, so I made this to post there - and it’s just good tech that gets lost in the original video!
I’m very active on the Facebook page 👍
@@ThunderHead289 Glad you reposted this excerpt! Just installed a Pertronix Flamethrower III dizzy and coil, but while it's connected I'm getting around 8.5v at the positive side of the coil (actually whole ignition power circuit shows 8.5v) . No resistor wire inline and a new battery. Maybe I have a bad unit, bad ground, or will it show low till ignition?
It was a bad ground cable from battery. Now I'm all good!
My boss was at Sema in 2018 & met a distributor supplier from China that admitted they supply distributors to MSD. Times have changed.....MSD aren't the be all and end all
I do have a counter argument to that as my engineering group does similar things - although made overseas, they are probably made to a higher standard and thoroughly tested, hence the higher price and minimal failures - the 50 dollar units on the other hand are just slapped out with minimal QC time.
@@ThunderHead289 totally agree, there are different levels of quality coming out of not only China but Asia. Not doubting MSD, they would be high quality, but sadly it's the way of the world, sourcing from a cheap labour country yet retail pricing doesn't reflect that.
If Chinese can make iPhone, they can make a decent distributor
Yep. MSD makes garbage now. It's common knowledge at this point.
@@moorabindanot everything Chinese is bad lol I have to agree. Borg Warner opened up some factories in China for turbochargers a few years back, a vendor started reviewing it and despite being different materials, the guy was saying the Chinese one might be better depending on your application
It's funny I have a 4 cylinder carburated small truck. Nobody puts in tons of work on carburated 4 bsngers but I thinknits well worth it. Far more reliable then modern junk. Good for a daily driver
Love your ignition key :-)
Really appreciate your videos! I am currently working on getting my 3000gt to fire back up. People have suggested it sounds like the timing going to try some of your tricks to it. My latest video is where its struggling to start if your curious perhaps you might have some insight on whats going on with it?
Do you have any content on 351m/400s?
Thunderhead289!
I’m buying a used 351W for my 1980 Bronco (old 302 is tired) and want to know where a solid parts list could be found so I can convert the 351W EFI roller to carb. Any tips where I can find that would be greatly appreciated
Good tips. Love the wheels man.
I remember your galaxie having a 289. My 64 also has a 289 that I’ll be rebuilding this summer. Any good choices for cams? I’m looking at the comp xe262h. Seems like a healthy midrange cam. I’m not looking to spin it very high. Just a high compression torque motor.
The sound of terrified Prius’ in the background
For a 1977 5.8 econoline club wagon would the egr valve be a negative or positive pressure valve?
I think the manliness of ur truck offended all those little girly Asians cars😄
My chevy 350 small block. Their is no suction from timed vaccum. I do I fix this issue?
Is a ProForm 440 - 426 a good distributor for a Mopar 318 engine?
i thought TDC was stamped on crankshaft pully at the factory why do you have to hunt it
Do you have any info on adjusting doors on 1971 F100 ??????
Hi I'm working on 75 ford 330 trying to find timing info and carb settings
So what is roughly the correct mechanical timing at idle and the with the vacuum distributor should be at with idle? My 81 f100 is at mechanical 11 degrees and off the chart with the vacuum plugged in. Near 30 tho
Sounds like your into manifold vacuum at idle .
Good stuff man!
I have a 351 W in my 69 cougar. It has PS and AC. I'm trying to verify timing, but I just don't see any timing marks using my timing light. Do you have any tips to verify? Also, my car only seems to fire up if I have the distributor turned clockwise as far as it can go. I tried to pull it out and move back a tooth, but that kept it from firing altogether.
This should directly help ua-cam.com/video/HvwHVpTBsGA/v-deo.htmlsi=bbSH6qL5EtlHubSN
I have a ???? Someone told me the distributor rotor button should be facing towards the back of the carburetor, and you are instructing that it should be facing towards the #1 cylinder. I'm confused ford 302
I said the cylinder one terminal on distributor.
My fav body style of all brands and models.
Dialed thank you!
Great vid....need better mic
Although its written down different and chevy and ford number their cylinders different the 351w and LS firing order is the same
That’s because the LS is a ford design
and the old 350 chevy and old 302 order is the same and the 4/7 swap chevy cam is the same as old flat head ford. its written down different cuz the different way cylinders are numbered. if you draw it out you will see. its mind boggling. A day in class that makes you look at everything different.
Great info, thank you for sharing and send it.
Some good tips thanks.
Just swapped a straight 6 for a V8 in an 82 C10. Trying to get the timing right is killing me. Everything seems right until I shut it off. It wants to over run for a few seconds.. I can't get it out . Please help if you can. It's a stock 305 with a mild cam, hei ignition and a 750 elderbrock carburetor. I'm sure the carburetor is way to big.
Carbs way too big, but your initial timing is provably too low causing you to compensate with the curb idle screw to get your idle rpm up.
If you advance initial timing, you can lower the throttle blades and it will likely go away
@@ThunderHead289 I thought the carb was to big... But the engine was gifted to me.. what size do you think would be appropriate? I'm thinking something a tad larger than a lawnmower carburetor ... Oh.. I really appreciate your reply back..
I'm going try it your way thanks for the video nice footage you make it look so easy and it probably is. I'm not a mechanic but I try.. I'm tired of paying people to mess up my car when they don't know jack I might as well learn myself and fix it right for free 💯 I paid a guy 10,000 to totally trash my 302 that I just had built on top of that he turned a GT 5.0 into a flat tappet like who does that it suppose to be the other way around I thought. 501 lift that doesn't even lope sounds like a regular lincoln 5.0 smh no power at all..
I have a 1990 Lincoln Town car base model Windsor v8 I'm guessing it's the 302. Can you tell me the pros and cons of upgrading the distributor to HEI. any advice given would be greatly appreciated thank you.
Big fan of the channel but it seems you leave alot of stuff out or your vids might not be for newbies. I had to watch another video to figure out the firing order is actually on the block. And there are numbers above the spark plugs. Out of all the videos I watched from you I never saw you explain that simple fact. But again your channel might not be geared to newbies like myself. Still a fan though.
Who is she?
New sub👍🏽 having a hard time adjusting mine , lost my timing when i swapped out my intake manifold gaskets and now im having a hard time getting it just right where it was😓 for some reason now my volts dont stay up in 14.6 like they used to they drop to about 13.8-14.2 and just feels like it wants to die , but if i turn the alternator some the voltage go up or drop , new alt and battery btw its a 86 chevy c10 with a 305
4:31 9:11 10:21
Hey @thunderhead289 when I put my 1965 Ford galaxie into gear with a cruise o matic trans it stalls would timing be a issue thanks?
this video is just what i was looking for. Do you have a video if your car has no timing marks? I have a 68 cougar with no timing marks. Can i just find tdc and put timing tape in that spot?
Steel is a material. Cast is a method. Cast iron, cast steel, and cast stainless are all common. I think you meant to describe cast vs machined from a billet.
great video, but all i can think about is that fat stack of washers on the alternator mounting bolt >D
Do you know if that timing trick at about 11:00 in the video works on a MSD distributor with built in coil?
lmfao i love setting car alarms off xD
My 95 F-150 5.0 with true dual straight pipes and 6inch tips sets off every single alarm where ever I go. I've even set my grandma's house alarm off.
Dude thanks alot man for this
Thanks Luke for sending me this video on your Facebook page! I'm sure all the tips provided here will get me back on track and my Dad's '67 Mustang back on the road.
Washer spacer and lp gas water block off parts really
I hasn’t machined my spacer yet, and that’s nothing but a 3/8 cap and pipe nipple with a rubber hose blocking off the heater. Way better than the block off caps since they explode after a couple years.
So yes, really.
@@ThunderHead289 my good friend I say this because if I see it others see it. I build custom cars for tons of people I'm maticulous it caught my eye. Not knocking you at all I'm nuts over details
Always cross your plug wires. Induction is a killer.
What do you thank about the summit brand hei distributor
Thanks again for another great video bud!
Where is the oil stick who Goes below the distributor ?
So I am at the 8:56 mark and when I put the negative lead from my multimeter onto the battery and the positive lead onto the coil positive I do not get any voltage reading (With key on). If I take off the negative battery terminal and then measure I get twelve volts on the positive terminal (With key off). So am I looking at a short to ground somewhere. If I measure voltage with negative battery terminal off and the key on then I get 5.56 volts on the positive side of the coil, I am assuming this is because the ballister is dropping the voltage close to six volts to keep the coil cool. If you have any suggestions as to why I am not seeing the twelve volts like your video then please let me know. This project is a 1975 Ford F250 with a modified 390 GT motor that is now a 428.
are you say ing you get5,6 volts with neg batt off??????????
3 year late comment, but, why do you have a manifold vac gauge mounted in the cab? What exactly is that telling you for daily monitoring needs?
Tells you a lot - engine load as it relates to throttle position is the biggest. You can also see if the engine isn’t running smooth, or if you have uneven fuel charge. A lot of indicators of engine health really.
@@ThunderHead289 Very interesting. Never thought of that before and figured it was only good for tune-up and setup. Thanks for the insight
What are the stock gears for a 74? I have a '79 with granny gear that I would love to ride exactly like this. I am looking into the SST five speed Tremec (for four wheel drive) same engine.
My f100 is running the stock inline 6 3.70 rear gear. Currently has a t5 5 speed in it. Works well together
Awesome
Thank you very much
Another great video from my go to YT channel for anything repair related! Thanks!
Great video, learning new things, keep up the good work 👍
I love the 65 Lesabre in the background. I used to have a 65 Wildcat.. 4 door though. I hated to get rid of it.
My dad used to have two 64 wildcat 2 doors when I was little. Nail heads are a beast
when you say "mix screw" does that pertain to both the idle screw and the fuel mixture screw?
just my 2 cents worth idle screw is a sperate adjustment from mix screw mix adj amout of gas at idle is flowing into intake manifold the wayy we used to adj this was set a class of water on the at idle the water will shake due to eng vibration adj mix till water stop shaking try it works
old video but where do you get them fan pieces at and what's the name i want to do away with clutch
Almost any parts store or amazon. Its a fan spacer.
Do I need to tear my engine apart before taking the distributor out and try to restab it?
you take dist out without doing any just make it easytake top off dist mark where rotor is pointing then loose hold bold remove dist
Best way is to pull valve cover and look at number 1 valves--believe me
what would I be looking for? Doing a teardown of an E-400 block from my Edsel, always looking out for any tips or guidance
@@thequietestengine Assuming number 1 is the cylinder that is referenced with the timing light, the best way is to verify top-dead center (TDC) as the intake closes. Both valves are closed at TDC. I've used whistles, but the whistle has whistled during exhaust stroke. This is the best procedure to use on the cylinder that is used for timing.
More ads than video. Lost interest. Just curious on "your way".
I don’t have a timing light but i loosen up the distributor and rotate it. Tuning by ear if you will . Is this bad? Should i properly retime the engine? Im having extended cranking but I don’t think this is the issue
Iv tried tuning by ear, then to check my work I came back with a timing light and o2 gauge to see the difference - even with all my experience on this stuff myself, having the right tools for the job wins every time.
I always am out of adjustment comparatively - it’s not a big turn to get 10 degrees change, and if you aren’t careful, your total timing will be well over 40!!!!!
ThunderHead289 yeah im sure ive done messed it all up, looks like ill be investing in some tools
Damn Fords were confusing. GM made it simple. Same firing order for small blocks, big blocks and tall decks.
And then when they came out with the LS, they were like “wow our firing order sucks” and copied ford.
ThunderHead289 Luckily for me I don’t follow the LS engines and don’t know much about them. I’m a square body fan, which is why I enjoy your videos. Just about everything you cover applies to any engine of that era. Also, re-reading my comment, I should’ve put a comma in after ‘damn’. That came out wrong. All my vehicles are Ford except my ‘80 GMC square body.
FORD 's are confusing ? Not .