Great video and it was good to see it pretty much matched how I fitted mine (supplied by yourself last year). One slight variation I made was to fit the tie rods on the next nut in from end so as to give a little more support to the aft blocks but I doubt it would make much difference. Cheers for this episode, very well explained.
Makes little difference which of those fixings gets the Tierods so no worries there. The halyard are the high load lines so they are the main ones to consider in terms of location.
I used to do as you said but now find it easier and quicker to clean up each thread with a flap disk in the angle grinder. Doing as you say often leaves a burr on the end of the bolt/screw that likes to cut hands or gets trapped when you wind on the nut.
Hi George, I'm so glad I found your channel. I'm putting an offer on a Canadian made ,JJ Taylor Contessa 32 here in California today, and your video are a tremendous resource for me. I appreciate your efforts here. Thanks! , Eric
Pleased you like them, do remember that there are considerable differences between the JR (UK) co32’s and the JJT boats, particularly on the internal construction.
George, I stumbled on your channel and wow! Your are a master . Greatly appreciated turnips and tricks.. I am in the process of refitting and 1970 hinckley 38.. very similar boat to the Contessa 32.. I'll be completing your support.. once I figure things out. Many thanks and cheers.. keep up the great work.. no nonsense approach to your blog, Greatly appreciated.
George, a quick tip for you! The recommended cutting fluid for aluminum is good old fashioned paraffin. It is a bit smelly though, so like you I don't bother unless I've got a lot to cut/drill. Love the video's, please keep 'em coming.
Thanks, good tip, think someone else mentioned the same with paraffin. I expect most light-lube will work (wd40) but with Ali I agree you can get away without most of the time.
Man am I liking your saying that you don't need to take the mast or modify the deck !. Like they said in Django unchained....you had my curiosity...now you have my attention ! :)
A couple of random thoughts after watching your video. Personally when I have to cut bolts I thread a nut on first to clean the threads out after cutting and cleaning. Was curious if you have ever "accidentally" brushed into lighting/wind direction speed/ VHF wiring when punching holes into masts?
I used to cut with the nut on and remove after but not prefer to just cut and then clean the end with a flap disk. Less fiddly and quicker I think. Removing the nut alone can still leave sharp burrs on the end of the thread. As for catching/nicking a cable it’s yet to happen, all the lighting cables exit the mast above where I was drilling in this boat so not an issue on this boat. Above the deck the cables should be in the mast conduit so again it should not be an issue (unless you drill though the conduit!)
The Hella cabin lights on this boat, through the door and behind your head at 6:24 , can you do a short video on how to remove the covers to get at the bulb? I have the same on my boat and I can't get them apart. I've twisted and pulled the glass covers to the point were they are pulling from the GRP...... Help!! Like your videos, keep up the good work.
Easy, no video needed. You turn them to go from on and off, if you turn it beyond On (from memory) they click round one more time and then the lens just drops out. Hella have stopped making these now I think, I managed to buy a couple of new old-stock a short while back for when needed.
sometimes if it’s been assembled incorrectly the third removal position doesn’t work so you just have to carefully bend the plastic until you can release the three retaining lugs in the cover from the base.
@@RefitandSail I got it worked out. Need to push the glass cover into the base first. Then turn anticlockwise to a 4th position, where the glass pops out. I can now fit LED festoons.
String idea is good but incomplete, you make a tied noose (loop) through the drilled hole, mast hole and fitting. Then it can't drop and when you cut the string you can just pull it out and not leave any string ends at the bottom of the mast wherever they hold moisture.
Hi George, Great video. Just one thought, wouldn't the load be better transferred if the ties were installed more forward on the horseshoe, maybe half way?
The tie-bars are located below where the halyards are normally located so they support the deck where the highest loads are (this is towards the forward end of the horseshoe) so I think this is where you are suggesting they should be 😊. Maybe not so obvious from the angle of filming.
Hi George, curious why you didn't elect to install the horseshoes with plain nuts, then die grind or Dremel off the bolts in-situ before swapping out the plain nuts for domes ?
If I did that I’d send small bits of hot metal all over the inside of the boat, I doubt the owner wants that on his varnished bulkhead it floor. I’m sure it could be done but I’d rather do cutting/grinding of metal outside.
Hi George, Just found your channel and looks so good I subscribed! I have a question: You need to fit the rigging screw because you're bringing the reef lines, halyards, etc down to blocks attached to the new deck-ring before they lead aft to the cockpit. The halyards on my yacht do not lead aft and are controlled at the mast. I assume I do not need rigging screws because of that, is that correct? Thanks, Dean
Yea that’s correct, if all your lines are handled at the mast then they are not transferring any load to the deck so no issues. The tie-rods are just there to stop the deck from being stressed or deformed by halyard loads applies to the deck ring. Sounds like your system is fine and just as it should be.
The mast or the deck? either way it’s fine the way I do it. When fitting new halyard slots in a mast (which are larger and a different shape) they want to be spaced out so not to give a weak point but what have done is pretty standard practice for a deck ring. Thanks for the comment and question 😊
@@RefitandSail sorry, it was the mast I was referring to. Also do you have a video for fitting the spin lock clutches? The previous owner of my Co32 put them in with zero sealant (which the company says not to use) so the water leaks in like a sieve. Id love to see the best way to fit them or to be pointed in the right direction. But I know you are busy and taking time to answer YT comments is a lot to ask so anyone else who might have a good suggestion please comment 🙏
I don’t currently have a video on fitting clutches but the use of a sealant is pretty essential. Spinlock say not to use a polysulphide but I think they just don’t want you glueing the clutch to the deck because they will at some point need removal. A small amount around the fixings is ok, just ideally noting too adhesive (my preference is for Sabatack).
Love the cardboard organiser tip
I believe it's "Proper Preparation Prevents Piss Poor Performance". 😉
Also a variation on your string trick is to leave a tail on the end that you can fish out back through the main hole.
Yep, that would definitely work, not sure why I didn’t think of that, just needs a long tail after the stopper knot coming back out the hole
Great video always look forward to them. Others must be envious great content.
Thanks 👍
Great video and it was good to see it pretty much matched how I fitted mine (supplied by yourself last year). One slight variation I made was to fit the tie rods on the next nut in from end so as to give a little more support to the aft blocks but I doubt it would make much difference. Cheers for this episode, very well explained.
Makes little difference which of those fixings gets the Tierods so no worries there. The halyard are the high load lines so they are the main ones to consider in terms of location.
9:48 Small advice, before cutting off the screws twist the nuts on them, this will help restore the thread at the cut site.
I used to do as you said but now find it easier and quicker to clean up each thread with a flap disk in the angle grinder. Doing as you say often leaves a burr on the end of the bolt/screw that likes to cut hands or gets trapped when you wind on the nut.
@@RefitandSail Of course after cutting need clean up it. But I use the method anyway for restore last turn of thread.
Hi George, I'm so glad I found your channel. I'm putting an offer on a Canadian made ,JJ Taylor Contessa 32 here in California today, and your video are a tremendous resource for me. I appreciate your efforts here. Thanks! , Eric
Pleased you like them, do remember that there are considerable differences between the JR (UK) co32’s and the JJT boats, particularly on the internal construction.
@@RefitandSail Thanks for the info.
George, I stumbled on your channel and wow! Your are a master . Greatly appreciated turnips and tricks.. I am in the process of refitting and 1970 hinckley 38.. very similar boat to the Contessa 32.. I'll be completing your support.. once I figure things out. Many thanks and cheers.. keep up the great work.. no nonsense approach to your blog, Greatly appreciated.
Thanks Chris, hope your refit goes well!
@@RefitandSail george.. I'm looking for an hour how to contribute.. can you send a link?
@@chrisfittipaldi4382it’s in the video description but also here…. www.paypal.me/RefitAndSail
George, a quick tip for you! The recommended cutting fluid for aluminum is good old fashioned paraffin. It is a bit smelly though, so like you I don't bother unless I've got a lot to cut/drill. Love the video's, please keep 'em coming.
Thanks, good tip, think someone else mentioned the same with paraffin. I expect most light-lube will work (wd40) but with Ali I agree you can get away without most of the time.
An interesting fact, WD40 is 90% kerosene and 10% machine oil, if you ever need large amounts, you can make your own 😊
‘Still watching’. Thank you
Safety squint always works
Pleased you agree
😂
Installation tips much appreciated George and just in the nick of time!
sill watching. so you know.
😊 well done!
Absolutely amazing. The best DIY boat channel out there =)
Thanks 👍
Man am I liking your saying that you don't need to take the mast or modify the deck !. Like they said in Django unchained....you had my curiosity...now you have my attention ! :)
One of the best boat videos channels on Utub I am hoping for a video on the instation of Lotties electronics.
Michael Taverner.
Keep watching euros. Love your work. One day maybe I can get you to work on my Fisher 25. Love the mast line organiser & beautiful
Nice work George, something for your tea in the post.....
Thanks, arrived yesterday, wondered who it was from. Thanks. 😊
Hi George, I don't have a boat but I still want a horse shoe, you are a very good tradesman/salesman 😀
Thanks 😊
Thanks so much for sharing this George - gives me lots of confidence to fit mine later this season. I still anticipate a wee bit of swearing though …
Best of luck!
Thanks George superb as always
Still watching , looking out for piss poor performance . Don't see any 😂 LOL thank you for your videos cheers
Watched every nut and cut!
😆 thanks well done!
Nice work as usual George 👍 It would be nice to see the mast at the bottom, post tidy up if you get the chance 🙏
If you keep an eye on my instagram it’s likely you will see it!
A couple of random thoughts after watching your video. Personally when I have to cut bolts I thread a nut on first to clean the threads out after cutting and cleaning. Was curious if you have ever "accidentally" brushed into lighting/wind direction speed/ VHF wiring when punching holes into masts?
I used to cut with the nut on and remove after but not prefer to just cut and then clean the end with a flap disk. Less fiddly and quicker I think. Removing the nut alone can still leave sharp burrs on the end of the thread.
As for catching/nicking a cable it’s yet to happen, all the lighting cables exit the mast above where I was drilling in this boat so not an issue on this boat. Above the deck the cables should be in the mast conduit so again it should not be an issue (unless you drill though the conduit!)
Super useful stuff. Thank you for this video.
Still watching :)
😊
The Hella cabin lights on this boat, through the door and behind your head at 6:24 , can you do a short video on how to remove the covers to get at the bulb? I have the same on my boat and I can't get them apart. I've twisted and pulled the glass covers to the point were they are pulling from the GRP...... Help!!
Like your videos, keep up the good work.
Easy, no video needed. You turn them to go from on and off, if you turn it beyond On (from memory) they click round one more time and then the lens just drops out.
Hella have stopped making these now I think, I managed to buy a couple of new old-stock a short while back for when needed.
@@RefitandSailThanks, yes there are three positions; I'll try again. At least I now know how it's meant to work....😀
sometimes if it’s been assembled incorrectly the third removal position doesn’t work so you just have to carefully bend the plastic until you can release the three retaining lugs in the cover from the base.
@@RefitandSail I got it worked out. Need to push the glass cover into the base first. Then turn anticlockwise to a 4th position, where the glass pops out. I can now fit LED festoons.
safety glasses with the grinder mate, I am begging you. I like these videos too much to have to get used to a braille version of them!
Did your single mother have you neutered before or after puberty?
Noted! I always wear them with the angle grinder just forget sometimes with the drill - my bad…. You are absolutely right!!
😂
String idea is good but incomplete, you make a tied noose (loop) through the drilled hole, mast hole and fitting. Then it can't drop and when you cut the string you can just pull it out and not leave any string ends at the bottom of the mast wherever they hold moisture.
Hi George, Great video. Just one thought, wouldn't the load be better transferred if the ties were installed more forward on the horseshoe, maybe half way?
The tie-bars are located below where the halyards are normally located so they support the deck where the highest loads are (this is towards the forward end of the horseshoe) so I think this is where you are suggesting they should be 😊.
Maybe not so obvious from the angle of filming.
Still watching 😂
Good to know! 😂
Hi George, great video, which rivets (material)did you use for the mast ?
Monel rivets for use on aluminium masts
Hi George, curious why you didn't elect to install the horseshoes with plain nuts, then die grind or Dremel off the bolts in-situ before swapping out the plain nuts for domes ?
If I did that I’d send small bits of hot metal all over the inside of the boat, I doubt the owner wants that on his varnished bulkhead it floor. I’m sure it could be done but I’d rather do cutting/grinding of metal outside.
awesome work. Do you ever curse?
Absolutely!
Hi George, Just found your channel and looks so good I subscribed! I have a question: You need to fit the rigging screw because you're bringing the reef lines, halyards, etc down to blocks attached to the new deck-ring before they lead aft to the cockpit. The halyards on my yacht do not lead aft and are controlled at the mast. I assume I do not need rigging screws because of that, is that correct? Thanks, Dean
Yea that’s correct, if all your lines are handled at the mast then they are not transferring any load to the deck so no issues. The tie-rods are just there to stop the deck from being stressed or deformed by halyard loads applies to the deck ring.
Sounds like your system is fine and just as it should be.
What can you get mast boots for older C&c 30
Suggest you ask a local rigging company that should have a source
does drilling holes like that weaken it by any significant amount?
The mast or the deck? either way it’s fine the way I do it. When fitting new halyard slots in a mast (which are larger and a different shape) they want to be spaced out so not to give a weak point but what have done is pretty standard practice for a deck ring.
Thanks for the comment and question 😊
@@RefitandSail sorry, it was the mast I was referring to. Also do you have a video for fitting the spin lock clutches? The previous owner of my Co32 put them in with zero sealant (which the company says not to use) so the water leaks in like a sieve. Id love to see the best way to fit them or to be pointed in the right direction. But I know you are busy and taking time to answer YT comments is a lot to ask so anyone else who might have a good suggestion please comment 🙏
I don’t currently have a video on fitting clutches but the use of a sealant is pretty essential. Spinlock say not to use a polysulphide but I think they just don’t want you glueing the clutch to the deck because they will at some point need removal. A small amount around the fixings is ok, just ideally noting too adhesive (my preference is for Sabatack).
Will you not put resin on the holes to protect balsa ?
No balsa to protect, it’s solid laminate!
Do you use Tuf-Gel much? I find Duralac gets everywhere and is incredibly sticky…. Tuf-Gel is easier to clean. More expensive mind!
Aware of it but not used it as I have Duralac and use so little of it a tube lasts a long time. Will maybe give it a go once what I have is used up
still watching
😆 well done for not skipping forward!
Never underestimate the safety squints.😂
True that! 😂
Engage safety squint.
😂 exactly!
proper prior planning prevents piss poor performance