my dad worked at Friedrich's refrigeration in San Antonio Texas for over 30 years from around 1955 to 1985. He worked there with his brother and father. mom and dad got a small window unit maybe around 1980 or so and that was the only room in the house(their bedroom) that had air conditioning.
i have a big old Kenmore Air conditoner. a few weeks ago it stopped working and was tripping the breaker. I fixed it with a wire coat hanger. the plastic fan came free from the motor and I just wrapped the wire around the fan to reattach it to the motor. it's the condenser fan. the thing was overheating and shutting off because the fan was not spinning. not as old as your air conditioner.
I grew up in the 70s with a GE unit that was somewhere in the 30K btu range. It took my dad and two brothers-in-law to lift it onto the mounting frame.
By "high efficiency" they probably meant more efficient than competing units, like my grossly underrated Kelvinator, tag says 12,800 BTUs, but the dimensions of the coil and specifications of the compressor and fan motor put it more in the neighborhood of 15,000 BTUs, it requires its own 30 amp 115v circuit due to it using a Tecumseh reciprocating compressor, a rotary compressor, which is more than likely what this unit has, uses far less energy than a comparable reciprocating compressor, though nothing beats the sound of that old Tecumseh. It's been in the family since new, great grandpa Dick bought it new in 1981 and used it up until uncle Tuna couldn't help him install it because of his deteriorating health, uncle Motown helped him remove the unit, clean and dry it, and put it in storage, it sat in storage for a good 15 years until I saw it in his garage when visiting him, beside it were an early 2001 Kenmore 5600 BTU unit built by White consolidated, an Amana 8000 BTU portable built by Midea, and a 7000 BTU LG portable, I got all 4 units for $35, as the LG is fairly new and was quite expensive, and I was genuinely impressed with just how quiet the Kenmore is, its LG compressor is nearly silent and the fan moves a good amount of air while remaining whisper quiet, and the Kelvinator impressed me by cooling a good sized house on its own, albeit while shaking the window it was mounted in and dimming the lights, and that's after servicing the fan and carefully replacing the compressor mounts, I plan on keeping all 5 units I currently have and possibly collecting more, as good quality units are hard to come by and there's a program where you can either donate unused window units to senior services or you can let them borrow unused window or portable air conditioners on a per season basis, they will clean the filters on a regular basis and report issues to you as well as disassemble and clean all the units at the end of the season before returning borrowed units, they have licensed HVAC people who can handle refrigerants do the servicing and if a unit you let them borrow develops a leak they will find and repair any leaks and re-charge it with a drop-in replacement that's most suitable for the particular unit free of charge
I have the A/C Heater Combo that was built into a Workshop of a home I purchased in 2015 and it is a BEAST but the Coils are Freezing so I need to take it out and get it serviced but it has been perfect until now.
Love this unit, we have one just like it that was purchased new in 1982 for our family room, and was used regularly every summer until we got central AC in 1999. Its still installed and used occasionally. Unfortunately ours has a very rusted out cabinet.
Interesting to see inside this beast! This model is pretty much identical to the one my family is *still* using *for the whole house.* I grew up to the sound of that compressor coming on!
I had an air condtioner like that but much smaller (6,000 BTU). It had both the air freshener, and the fllter montor. When I was a kid we had a big air conditioner like the one in your video, which was a Whirlpool, and it was made in 1972, and for the fan control, it had buttons instead of a knob.
I've actually got one of these im about to install into my wall. Everything is good and has all the bits and pieces and nothing broken on it. And my father that got this back in the day did oil it regularly hah, practically no rust as well.
That's a nice unit! Funny how in the midwest, cars rust out due to road salt, but A/C units look good as new. On the east coast, it's the opposite. My 2003 Whirlpool 20,000 BTU A/C has condenser coil rot and lots of rust on the base pan. Last cleaning I did on it, I drilled a hole in a low spot on the base pan so the condensate will drain out preventing further rust and condenser rot. Air is salty here with the ocean near by. ;-) It still keeps my garage nice and cool on a hot summer day!
I used to play car speakers hard on a Pilot home amp. It was in step up series amp broke no sweat running them all hours the day at peak power. Enough output it rattled a 20lbs speaker box off a really large night stand. It eventually did fry the thing had way too much running on it. Largest Window Unit I seen for 110v was 12,000btu, but not the first time I heard of this. @TheAirConditionerGuy via flicker photos would have a kick out of it. I like these smaller ones I used to have a 220v 18,000btu unit can't remember name from early sixties draw over 2,000 watts just to run it. The thermostat was wedged open landlord was cheep so it ran til unplugged or turned off. Suck down 600kw in a short time. One month nailed 1,900 kw once, glad I haven't had it in 20 years now. Any excellent video.
I love A/C units, both because of my mechanical interest in them, and the fact that I like the cold dry air. I'm one of those hot blooded people that can't take it much over 72º and I'm not comfortable until everyone is freezing. I believe those taller skinnier compressors are rotary vane type, and the shorter larger around ones are piston type.
7:36 I know for sure my great grandpa, did, I got his old Kelvinator as well as a few more modern units that he didn't have a use for, he gave me the original sales paperwork from Wards, it cost a pretty penny when adjusted for inflation, only reason he bought the Tecumseh reciprocating compressor Kelvinator as opposed to the much quieter rotary compressor powered Kenmore unit that was sold alongside is because when plugged in the Kelvinator cooled slightly more and slightly faster than the Kenmore, and it took some measuring, but the AMC Kelvinator company underrated it, it's rated at 12,800 BTU/hr when, according to the specs on the compressor and fan motor as well as measurements of the coil dimensions and a few other metrics it's closer in performance to 15,000 BTU/hr, I managed to fit that massive unit into a fairly standard sized casement window, though there was less than an inch on each side to spare, now it's in storage, though I would bet money on it starting and cooling as though it was just run yesterday even after sitting for 6 months, as it came right to life and got right to business after sitting for 15 or so years
That is a BEAST! I had a similar one. I want to say it was the same almost, it was a Montgomery Ward, and it had those same little vents and things with the levers, and the same type of control panel. Although the entire front plastic cover was missing. I doubt it was as large though, otherwise I couldn't have pulled it home. But it was VERY similar. I doubt this will see much use with that power draw it has...ha...
Yeah, I saw the oil ports when I was inspecting it from the outside, but the fan alone is only drawing 1.5amps on high, so it is not the problem, but oiling, not a bad idea. Yeah mine had the plug disease too, I cut off about 1' of cable and put a new 20amp plug on it, it worked better, but still drawing more than it should, and pops breaker after about 45min. Hey, I also just realized you are probably the uxwbill on vintage computer forum, I am RWallmow over there :-)
Used to have a Kenmore close to this model I think it was a little smaller but it did not have a air freshener vent just solid front plastic panels. The filter on my unit was four plastic rectangles vertical up and down joined around the edges with plastic frame. Then the four rectangles had thin sink washable gray colored foam.
I recently replaced my soleus air 9000 BTU portable A/C with a Friedrich portable 13500 BTU heat pump. When plugged in to the kill a watt meter I have, the Soleus started at around 600 watts and climbed to just over 700. I forgot to check amps. The Friedrich uses 1100 watts and just over 10 amps.1 watt standby. At least the Friedrich cycles the compressor and has a separate condensing fan. An interesting feature.
I have a small version of that unit... a Kenmore 5000 BTU made in 1990 with the same style woodgrain design front cover but it's all insulated around the evaporator with styrofoam panels. It has the vent door on top but not the one behind the evaporator and it does not have the air freshener. This unit for the most part works great but with the 100°+ heat, I have a large space to cool and it struggles to keep up and runs almost 24/7. Still keeps it comfortable, but I need to find a larger unit.
my Yamaha tuner turns on and shuts off. it was nice. can i fix it? dang. i should be able to fix these things. the blower motor just stopped in my 2003 f250. i hope it is a fuse.
I am thinking its a combination of capacitor and dirty, it will keep running without tripping the breaker now that I hosed off (not too high pressure) the condenser coil, and compressed air cleaned the evap coil, however on compressor startup its about 50/50 that it trips the breaker. So I might have to look into replacing its capacitor.
I love those rotary compressors. just a little correction, that was a suction accumulator, not filter/drier. rotaries are not forgiving at all with liquid refrigerant.
Here's something for 'ya, my town's public school district has these in their buildings, albeit straight-cool, and in the windows. Carrier 36,000 BTU window heat pump quick run
uxwbill im am a fan of your videos and really enjoy all your fixes and if you think this is a big one me and my dad do air condition work and we dont normaly do windowunits but one day he and I had to replace a 24,000 BTU window unit. ive seen my dad hold up 3 and 1/2 coils in attics and yet we were both about to pass out. believe me when i say it was bad, it was bad.
I am not sure what the BTU was but I hauled an old junk one off to scrap several months ago that took almost half the bed in a full sized pickup truck, it was about the size of a central furnace.
@uxwbill these old air conditioners are so well built i still have a magnasonic 12,000BTU A/C and it is every bit of i think 2 foot long about ill have to check haha and pretty wide and it works very good never had any leaks or any real service done on it i cleaned it after 10 years of use cause my dad never knew how soo haha very well cleaned has a perm lub fan gotta do something tho cause it makes sorta like thumping noise at startup for like 3 secs till it reaches full speed can be rubbing
I have this exact same AC mounted through-the-wall, something is wrong with mine though, on my kill-a-watt it says its drawing 19amp steady for as long as I dared to run it with the meter beeping about over-limit (its only rated 15amp). Even on my 20amp dedicated circuit, this thing likes to pop the breaker, but hopefully with your (albeit somewhat glazed over) dissassembly instructions I can check out why its drawing so much, I am hoping its just filthy inside and overworking the compressor.
My grandpa had an air conditioner about that big once. 15000 BTU. It's a much more modern AC, though, so it probably weighs less, and it was still 100 pounds.
@uxwbill You are correct, all the 25,000 BTU units are 240v. There is a 15,100 BTU unit that will run on 115v 15A. But for a 1990s unit, 14,000 BTU on 15A is huge for sure! Shows you they haven't really come that far in 20 years though doesn't it.:)
I have one from 1991 GE AC 20k btu got it from homedepot new mine runs on 120v but the plug says must be 20a and will trip breaker if run on any setting other than low . I tried it it run perfect on low but turned it to med click when the breaker I ran a septate wire and outlet for it in my living room runs perfect on 120 20a it is in my window right now. Thanks to all the veterans to I did my time 7 years in submarines full honorable discharge E-5 IC2 (SS)
hmm.. methinks that'd make a good fire-starter in an old k&t home with shared neutrals.. lol.. DAMN that's a nice toy.. keep 'er goin' mate.. them's is good company.. xD
Yeah we found the 10,000 btu version of it at a dump. We grabbed it for parts and when we got home we put a new cord in it and it worked perfectly, too bad the front was broken though.
If you need a service manual for the A-SV420, gimme a shout. It's also on eserviceinfo though. No removable bottom on this one? If you do decide to repair it, better give it some new protection relays of good quality, too. (Those in my TX-SV636 are pretty much shot, at least. Too little use, I guess. Anyway, this model has a part of the bottom that can be removed and reattached after turning it 180°.)
Found one of these that still blows cold as hell still. I need a new switch for the fan speed controller. The switch was broken off. I open the switch and it mostly works
I replaced my 1990 Kenmore with a brand new Haier which was a big mistake! That thing thank goodness it's working ok but it is very cheaply made! It did come from Wal-Mart and was made in China, all that thing is is a piece of styrofoam they call an A/C unit. I kid yot not the cabinet is the only thing that is metal on that thing besides the components and tray that they are mounted to. In the daytime broad daylight shows through the discarge vent! The Kenmore will be back in soon!
I just picked up a 24500 btu window unit from somone on marketplace for my garage. The control circuit board was burnt up so they bypassed it by wiring the common from capacitor to one side of live and compressor and fan high speed to the other side. Right now im trying to debate what to do about a thermostat, im thinking either a line voltage one or using a relay to switch power to the compressor with a low voltage thermostat
I'd definitely check all that rewiring and verify that the compressor and fan are not drawing too much current. (You might also check for a recall, especially for anything made in the last 20 odd years.) I don't know how easy it'd be to find a line voltage thermostat for cooling. You can definitely use a regular thermostat to operate a contactor -- I've done it twice and there are videos about it elsewhere on the channel. I'd imagine this isn't a 120 volt AC unit, but if by some slim chance it is, there's also the Lux WIN100 plug-in programmable thermostat. It's long been discontinued, though new and used ones can still be found with a little looking around.
@@uxwbill Its a 240v unit rated at ~14 amps. It's on a 30 amp breaker and none of the wiring to it is getting hot. Not sure about internally. It's iced up the evaporator once probably due to the compressor constantly running, so I want to correct that. I've found replacement circuit boards for it for around $125 but I'd be fine with a thermostat I believe. It gets colder inside this single car detached garage with no insulation or sheet rock than it does in the house atm lol
I've had one of these in the wall for 30 years, but the fan is now starting to screech, so I need to replace it. I happen to have a second identical unit (also attached to a mounting frame) that I'd like to slip into the already existing mounted housing, but I CAN'T figure out how to get the old unit out of its housing! (OR, for that matter, the replacement unit out of ITS housing!) Where are the attaching screws located? I've looked but can't find them! Are they hidden somehow? The unit seems fused to its housing! And I going to have to pull the old housing out of the wall too (chiseling away stucco to remove it), in order to swap in the new unit with it's own housing?
The fan motor was made to be lubricated (and every year at that). Since it's only just started, you can probably still save it. Try to run it as little as possible until you do. (I know. It's probably hot.) In addition to a metal handle that I believe is located at the bottom center of the evaporator (indoor) coil, I think that some of the screws at the bottom side of the case have to come out. Hopefully even with it in the wall you can still get it out.
Aren't your newest RV air conditioners 13,500 BTUs or so? I've seen 15,000 BTUs in most new RV walkarounds, whether that's the actual cooling power I dunno though.
A generic cut to fit foam air conditioner filter will work perfectly well. Most good hardware stores will have them. They are cheap, and you often get enough material to make several replacement filters.
hey uxwbill, did u gfet my awesome 1965 chevy nova video? lol anyways, i remmber a few videos back i saw an imac, i think a g4 in ur truck or something. if u still got it, would love to see a vid on it. that mac design was my favourite
I used to have one like that only it was 12,000 BTU it worked great but then the compressor died or it might be the start-up copassortor but anyway i got rid of it
They don't make them like they used to! I haven't found a Window-unit this big on todays market in a while, I think the biggest I've seen was 10,000BTU... And It needed a 220v 3 phase outlet. How many people did it take to move it? Seems like it'd be really heavy and need extra support for being in a window.
Please guys! What's the model number for this AC? I know it's Kenmore (Whirlpool) 18k btu (1978-79) Correct? All I know as for now. I need to find replacement for the same as on this video.. Don't have exact measurements and dint have access to old unit now. Is it 115v? Please. If anybody can help me to find model number... (Tried to read the tag here on 6:39 . He-he...)
+Andy S I do not have the exact model number. This unit is only a 14,000 odd BTU model. Rather surprisingly, it is designed for 120 volt use. It is from the late 80s or early 1990s. (Model number may be in the description.) If the tag still exists on your unit, try taking a rubbing with a piece of paper and a pencil. Sometimes it works!
***** Thanks a lot! Yeah. Early next week I'll better go there myself to take a look at the unit. Customer sent me just his pics of unit's front grill.. Thank you so much once again! Have a great weekend!
24,000 Window Shakers are not unusual. Common above the door in Old downtown liquor stores. Amana was an early manufacturer. You can see one in the movieSeven Year Itch.
@uxwbill Repairing a power amp isn't /hard/ per se, you only need to make sure you've caught *every single* (!) defective or out-of-spec component (Q, R, C, D, whatever). Use diodes as "power Q B-E simulators" if need be. Moreover, be *extremely* paranoid when buying power transistors. Original Sankens are neither cheap nor a lot more common than hen's teeth. I'd give 2SC5242/2SA1962 a shot here (Fairchild; ISC may also be OK). Check the bias current pot. Bad contact may mean burning up.
@uxwbill these kenmores nowadays are made by fridgidaire. that kenmore you have is made by fedders, fedders in the late 80`s to early 2000`s made kenmore, emerson, and "Summit" branded ac`s. Now their contract probably expired and sears now has a contract with fridgidare, (fridgidaire also makes kenmore refrigerators.) I have a 17,000 BTU Fridgidaire that would trip the breaker when running with my 2000 GE 12,500 BTU AC. When one dies, im gonna get an american made friedrich (:
@seanieb64 You better brush up on your thermodynamics before using one though. As anyone who watched the infamous THG processor burn-up video back in the day may know, displayed temperature depends on the surface's reflection coefficient. (There's no way in hell for a P4 running at full load with its cooler removed to have 29°C. Its heatspreader is nice and shiny metal though, which reflects more and emits less than the average surface the meter was calibrated for, hence the underreading.)
240 volts is better for larger AC units because with all else being equal, the amperage draw would be half of what it would be at 120 volts to provide the same cooling capacity. Cutting the amperage draw in half means that the unit's power wires don't have to be as thick, and is also generally easier to run and usually can be a little more efficient.
@uxwbill meh, fukkit.. punch a hole in the wall and stuff 'er there.. that's what we do in the Florida Keys for "ghetto central air" lol. I had a 10K BTU I did that with.. mine's a newer Fredrick though, might be an 8K, I'm not even sure at this point.. either way.. I pulled 3 20A UF-B cables in for that room.. LOL one for a future amp rack, one for the A/C, and one for the room, all 20AMP outlets, american or mexican made fixtures.. have fun, hope you find spot for it.
my dad worked at Friedrich's refrigeration in San Antonio Texas for over 30 years from around 1955 to 1985. He worked there with his brother and father. mom and dad got a small window unit maybe around 1980 or so and that was the only room in the house(their bedroom) that had air conditioning.
Really nice strong unit. These were made to last and really cool quickly.
i have a big old Kenmore Air conditoner. a few weeks ago it stopped working and was tripping the breaker. I fixed it with a wire coat hanger. the plastic fan came free from the motor and I just wrapped the wire around the fan to reattach it to the motor. it's the condenser fan. the thing was overheating and shutting off because the fan was not spinning. not as old as your air conditioner.
You took me back, I used to work for Sears those were definately on my list lol those and the Coldspot would run forever.
I grew up in the 70s with a GE unit that was somewhere in the 30K btu range. It took my dad and two brothers-in-law to lift it onto the mounting frame.
By "high efficiency" they probably meant more efficient than competing units, like my grossly underrated Kelvinator, tag says 12,800 BTUs, but the dimensions of the coil and specifications of the compressor and fan motor put it more in the neighborhood of 15,000 BTUs, it requires its own 30 amp 115v circuit due to it using a Tecumseh reciprocating compressor, a rotary compressor, which is more than likely what this unit has, uses far less energy than a comparable reciprocating compressor, though nothing beats the sound of that old Tecumseh. It's been in the family since new, great grandpa Dick bought it new in 1981 and used it up until uncle Tuna couldn't help him install it because of his deteriorating health, uncle Motown helped him remove the unit, clean and dry it, and put it in storage, it sat in storage for a good 15 years until I saw it in his garage when visiting him, beside it were an early 2001 Kenmore 5600 BTU unit built by White consolidated, an Amana 8000 BTU portable built by Midea, and a 7000 BTU LG portable, I got all 4 units for $35, as the LG is fairly new and was quite expensive, and I was genuinely impressed with just how quiet the Kenmore is, its LG compressor is nearly silent and the fan moves a good amount of air while remaining whisper quiet, and the Kelvinator impressed me by cooling a good sized house on its own, albeit while shaking the window it was mounted in and dimming the lights, and that's after servicing the fan and carefully replacing the compressor mounts, I plan on keeping all 5 units I currently have and possibly collecting more, as good quality units are hard to come by and there's a program where you can either donate unused window units to senior services or you can let them borrow unused window or portable air conditioners on a per season basis, they will clean the filters on a regular basis and report issues to you as well as disassemble and clean all the units at the end of the season before returning borrowed units, they have licensed HVAC people who can handle refrigerants do the servicing and if a unit you let them borrow develops a leak they will find and repair any leaks and re-charge it with a drop-in replacement that's most suitable for the particular unit free of charge
I have this same 1 2...just put n window yesterday...😍
Works like a Charm!!👌
I have the A/C Heater Combo that was built into a Workshop of a home I purchased in 2015 and it is a BEAST but the Coils are Freezing so I need to take it out and get it serviced but it has been perfect until now.
Love this unit, we have one just like it that was purchased new in 1982 for our family room, and was used regularly every summer until we got central AC in 1999. Its still installed and used occasionally. Unfortunately ours has a very rusted out cabinet.
Interesting to see inside this beast! This model is pretty much identical to the one my family is *still* using *for the whole house.* I grew up to the sound of that compressor coming on!
I had an air condtioner like that but much smaller (6,000 BTU). It had both the air freshener, and the fllter montor. When I was a kid we had a big air conditioner like the one in your video, which was a Whirlpool, and it was made in 1972, and for the fan control, it had buttons instead of a knob.
I've actually got one of these im about to install into my wall. Everything is good and has all the bits and pieces and nothing broken on it. And my father that got this back in the day did oil it regularly hah, practically no rust as well.
I have a 12,000 BTU Frigidaire unit from 1989. 120V also. That thing is a beast. Cools down the whole garage in about an hour.
That's a nice unit! Funny how in the midwest, cars rust out due to road salt, but A/C units look good as new. On the east coast, it's the opposite. My 2003 Whirlpool 20,000 BTU A/C has condenser coil rot and lots of rust on the base pan. Last cleaning I did on it, I drilled a hole in a low spot on the base pan so the condensate will drain out preventing further rust and condenser rot. Air is salty here with the ocean near by. ;-) It still keeps my garage nice and cool on a hot summer day!
I used to play car speakers hard on a Pilot home amp. It was in step up series amp broke no sweat running them all hours the day at peak power. Enough output it rattled a 20lbs speaker box off a really large night stand. It eventually did fry the thing had way too much running on it.
Largest Window Unit I seen for 110v was 12,000btu, but not the first time I heard of this. @TheAirConditionerGuy via flicker photos would have a kick out of it.
I like these smaller ones I used to have a 220v 18,000btu unit can't remember name from early sixties draw over 2,000 watts just to run it. The thermostat was wedged open landlord was cheep so it ran til unplugged or turned off. Suck down 600kw in a short time. One month nailed 1,900 kw once, glad I haven't had it in 20 years now.
Any excellent video.
I love A/C units, both because of my mechanical interest in them, and the fact that I like the cold dry air. I'm one of those hot blooded people that can't take it much over 72º and I'm not comfortable until everyone is freezing. I believe those taller skinnier compressors are rotary vane type, and the shorter larger around ones are piston type.
7:36 I know for sure my great grandpa, did, I got his old Kelvinator as well as a few more modern units that he didn't have a use for, he gave me the original sales paperwork from Wards, it cost a pretty penny when adjusted for inflation, only reason he bought the Tecumseh reciprocating compressor Kelvinator as opposed to the much quieter rotary compressor powered Kenmore unit that was sold alongside is because when plugged in the Kelvinator cooled slightly more and slightly faster than the Kenmore, and it took some measuring, but the AMC Kelvinator company underrated it, it's rated at 12,800 BTU/hr when, according to the specs on the compressor and fan motor as well as measurements of the coil dimensions and a few other metrics it's closer in performance to 15,000 BTU/hr, I managed to fit that massive unit into a fairly standard sized casement window, though there was less than an inch on each side to spare, now it's in storage, though I would bet money on it starting and cooling as though it was just run yesterday even after sitting for 6 months, as it came right to life and got right to business after sitting for 15 or so years
I love David's farm and I hope to one day go visit there!
That is a BEAST!
I had a similar one. I want to say it was the same almost, it was a Montgomery Ward, and it had those same little vents and things with the levers, and the same type of control panel. Although the entire front plastic cover was missing. I doubt it was as large though, otherwise I couldn't have pulled it home. But it was VERY similar.
I doubt this will see much use with that power draw it has...ha...
man woodgrain is such a cool look, now all the air conditioners are boring white
Yeah, I saw the oil ports when I was inspecting it from the outside, but the fan alone is only drawing 1.5amps on high, so it is not the problem, but oiling, not a bad idea.
Yeah mine had the plug disease too, I cut off about 1' of cable and put a new 20amp plug on it, it worked better, but still drawing more than it should, and pops breaker after about 45min.
Hey, I also just realized you are probably the uxwbill on vintage computer forum, I am RWallmow over there :-)
My dad told me he use to have a big 18000 BTU 240 volt carrier window unit back in 1980 he had it till 1985.
ive got one of these in my basement. stored. works perfect too.
Used to have a Kenmore close to this model I think it was a little smaller but it did not have a air freshener vent just solid front plastic panels. The filter on my unit was four plastic rectangles vertical up and down joined around the edges with plastic frame. Then the four rectangles had thin sink washable gray colored foam.
I recently replaced my soleus air 9000 BTU portable A/C with a Friedrich portable 13500 BTU heat pump. When plugged in to the kill a watt meter I have, the Soleus started at around 600 watts and climbed to just over 700. I forgot to check amps.
The Friedrich uses 1100 watts and just over 10 amps.1 watt standby.
At least the Friedrich cycles the compressor and has a separate condensing fan. An interesting feature.
I have a small version of that unit... a Kenmore 5000 BTU made in 1990 with the same style woodgrain design front cover but it's all insulated around the evaporator with styrofoam panels. It has the vent door on top but not the one behind the evaporator and it does not have the air freshener. This unit for the most part works great but with the 100°+ heat, I have a large space to cool and it struggles to keep up and runs almost 24/7. Still keeps it comfortable, but I need to find a larger unit.
Can't wait to see the power usage on my old Chrysler AirTemp unit once it's fixed. It's one of the ginormous 220V units from 1963.
@dj9volt "Mot-soosh-tah" is the Japanese pronunciation. "Mat-soo-shee-tah" is the Westernized pronunciation.
@uxwbill you are correct it uses a special power plug for higher voltages
i have one from the early 80's that is a 31,000btu 240v that still works like charm
my Yamaha tuner turns on and shuts off. it was nice. can i fix it? dang. i should be able to fix these things. the blower motor just stopped in my 2003 f250. i hope it is a fuse.
I think you should try that in you're garage am sure it could do a good job at cooling it.
Thats amazeing cant beleve all that on a 120volts whoooow!!
I am thinking its a combination of capacitor and dirty, it will keep running without tripping the breaker now that I hosed off (not too high pressure) the condenser coil, and compressed air cleaned the evap coil, however on compressor startup its about 50/50 that it trips the breaker. So I might have to look into replacing its capacitor.
I love those rotary compressors. just a little correction, that was a suction accumulator, not filter/drier. rotaries are not forgiving at all with liquid refrigerant.
Matsushita Compressors are used in alot of cheap chinese A/C units, they are the only thing that lasts the longest in them
Here's something for 'ya, my town's public school district has these in their buildings, albeit straight-cool, and in the windows. Carrier 36,000 BTU window heat pump quick run
I've seen 'em bigger than that one. My parents had a 23,000 btu window unit years ago. There are some that go even larger than that.
uxwbill im am a fan of your videos and really enjoy all your fixes and if you think this is a big one me and my dad do air condition work and we dont normaly do windowunits but one day he and I had to replace a 24,000 BTU window unit. ive seen my dad hold up 3 and 1/2 coils in attics and yet we were both about to pass out. believe me when i say it was bad, it was bad.
This unit was made in 1986, very well built Whirlpool unit.
That is at least a 2 Ton Unit, I bet it weighs a Ton too, It's very clean
I am not sure what the BTU was but I hauled an old junk one off to scrap several months ago that took almost half the bed in a full sized pickup truck, it was about the size of a central furnace.
I can confirm that is a Whirlpool made unit
@uxwbill these old air conditioners are so well built i still have a magnasonic 12,000BTU A/C and it is every bit of i think 2 foot long about ill have to check haha and pretty wide and it works very good never had any leaks or any real service done on it i cleaned it after 10 years of use cause my dad never knew how soo haha very well cleaned has a perm lub fan gotta do something tho cause it makes sorta like thumping noise at startup for like 3 secs till it reaches full speed can be rubbing
I have this exact same AC mounted through-the-wall, something is wrong with mine though, on my kill-a-watt it says its drawing 19amp steady for as long as I dared to run it with the meter beeping about over-limit (its only rated 15amp). Even on my 20amp dedicated circuit, this thing likes to pop the breaker, but hopefully with your (albeit somewhat glazed over) dissassembly instructions I can check out why its drawing so much, I am hoping its just filthy inside and overworking the compressor.
@uxwbill
COuld be where I live, Summers here don't get very hot... So large A/Cs are really a big deal. That'd be a good unit for your garage!
My grandpa had an air conditioner about that big once. 15000 BTU. It's a much more modern AC, though, so it probably weighs less, and it was still 100 pounds.
what screws do you remove off the air conditioner to slide the unit out? Also, how much does it weigh. I need to clean mine.
@uxwbill You are correct, all the 25,000 BTU units are 240v. There is a 15,100 BTU unit that will run on 115v 15A. But for a 1990s unit, 14,000 BTU on 15A is huge for sure! Shows you they haven't really come that far in 20 years though doesn't it.:)
Onkyo is notorious for over heating
That air conditioner unit is a Sears Kenmore. Whirlpool made for Sears.
I just found one of those on "Curbside Discount!" I tried grabbing it but it was too heavy for one person.
MY GRAND PARENTS HAS THAT AC LMAO it never dies man.
Thats pretty insane i cant believe 120!!
I have one from 1991 GE AC 20k btu got it from homedepot new mine runs on 120v but the plug says must be 20a and will trip breaker if run on any setting other than low . I tried it it run perfect on low but turned it to med click when the breaker I ran a septate wire and outlet for it in my living room runs perfect on 120 20a it is in my window right now. Thanks to all the veterans to I did my time 7 years in submarines full honorable discharge E-5 IC2 (SS)
hmm.. methinks that'd make a good fire-starter in an old k&t home with shared neutrals.. lol.. DAMN that's a nice toy.. keep 'er goin' mate.. them's is good company.. xD
Yeah we found the 10,000 btu version of it at a dump. We grabbed it for parts and when we got home we put a new cord in it and it worked perfectly, too bad the front was broken though.
If you need a service manual for the A-SV420, gimme a shout. It's also on eserviceinfo though. No removable bottom on this one? If you do decide to repair it, better give it some new protection relays of good quality, too. (Those in my TX-SV636 are pretty much shot, at least. Too little use, I guess. Anyway, this model has a part of the bottom that can be removed and reattached after turning it 180°.)
Found one of these that still blows cold as hell still. I need a new switch for the fan speed controller. The switch was broken off. I open the switch and it mostly works
The switch may still be available through Sears parts. Their being easily broken seems to be a common problem.
@@uxwbill thank you. Will look into it
That is definitely pre 1984
I need that ac where cn I find them
this units is in great shape uxwbill
Cool 😀
what is the model number of that air con?
the summer forcast
HAZZY.HOT.AND HUMID HIGH 90
I replaced my 1990 Kenmore with a brand new Haier which was a big mistake! That thing thank goodness it's working ok but it is very cheaply made! It did come from Wal-Mart and was made in China, all that thing is is a piece of styrofoam they call an A/C unit. I kid yot not the cabinet is the only thing that is metal on that thing besides the components and tray that they are mounted to. In the daytime broad daylight shows through the discarge vent! The Kenmore will be back in soon!
I just picked up a 24500 btu window unit from somone on marketplace for my garage. The control circuit board was burnt up so they bypassed it by wiring the common from capacitor to one side of live and compressor and fan high speed to the other side. Right now im trying to debate what to do about a thermostat, im thinking either a line voltage one or using a relay to switch power to the compressor with a low voltage thermostat
I'd definitely check all that rewiring and verify that the compressor and fan are not drawing too much current. (You might also check for a recall, especially for anything made in the last 20 odd years.)
I don't know how easy it'd be to find a line voltage thermostat for cooling. You can definitely use a regular thermostat to operate a contactor -- I've done it twice and there are videos about it elsewhere on the channel. I'd imagine this isn't a 120 volt AC unit, but if by some slim chance it is, there's also the Lux WIN100 plug-in programmable thermostat. It's long been discontinued, though new and used ones can still be found with a little looking around.
@@uxwbill Its a 240v unit rated at ~14 amps. It's on a 30 amp breaker and none of the wiring to it is getting hot. Not sure about internally. It's iced up the evaporator once probably due to the compressor constantly running, so I want to correct that. I've found replacement circuit boards for it for around $125 but I'd be fine with a thermostat I believe.
It gets colder inside this single car detached garage with no insulation or sheet rock than it does in the house atm lol
Nice 240.
I've had one of these in the wall for 30 years, but the fan is now starting to screech, so I need to replace it. I happen to have a second identical unit (also attached to a mounting frame) that I'd like to slip into the already existing mounted housing, but I CAN'T figure out how to get the old unit out of its housing! (OR, for that matter, the replacement unit out of ITS housing!) Where are the attaching screws located? I've looked but can't find them! Are they hidden somehow? The unit seems fused to its housing! And I going to have to pull the old housing out of the wall too (chiseling away stucco to remove it), in order to swap in the new unit with it's own housing?
The fan motor was made to be lubricated (and every year at that). Since it's only just started, you can probably still save it. Try to run it as little as possible until you do. (I know. It's probably hot.)
In addition to a metal handle that I believe is located at the bottom center of the evaporator (indoor) coil, I think that some of the screws at the bottom side of the case have to come out. Hopefully even with it in the wall you can still get it out.
Do most windows air conditioners and central air/heat systems use 240 volts?
Funny how that thing only pulls 12A. I have the 12,000BTU version of that and it also pulls 12A (max).
You could find a schematic for the amplifier, but it's not really worth repairing.
1987 model year
Aren't your newest RV air conditioners 13,500 BTUs or so? I've seen 15,000 BTUs in most new RV walkarounds, whether that's the actual cooling power I dunno though.
I have the same one but I need to get a air filter aswell but the problem is I don't know which one to get can you help me out ty
A generic cut to fit foam air conditioner filter will work perfectly well. Most good hardware stores will have them. They are cheap, and you often get enough material to make several replacement filters.
They don’t make window air conditioners like they used to
nice. its not that old. the one i use in my shed is 5.1KW (aboout 1750 BTU/h) and a have a few other ones that are the same size.
That looks like a modern Onkyo receiver... A protection relay should have saved it.
hey uxwbill, did u gfet my awesome 1965 chevy nova video? lol
anyways, i remmber a few videos back i saw an imac, i think a g4 in ur truck or something. if u still got it, would love to see a vid on it. that mac design was my favourite
You can buy a working onkyo of that era for a few bucks.
I used to have one like that only it was 12,000 BTU it worked great but then the compressor died or it might be the start-up copassortor but anyway i got rid of it
They don't make them like they used to! I haven't found a Window-unit this big on todays market in a while, I think the biggest I've seen was 10,000BTU... And It needed a 220v 3 phase outlet.
How many people did it take to move it? Seems like it'd be really heavy and need extra support for being in a window.
It may be 115V, but I dare you to run anything else on that circuit at the same time lol.
Please guys! What's the model number for this AC? I know it's Kenmore (Whirlpool) 18k btu (1978-79) Correct? All I know as for now. I need to find replacement for the same as on this video.. Don't have exact measurements and dint have access to old unit now. Is it 115v? Please. If anybody can help me to find model number... (Tried to read the tag here on 6:39 . He-he...)
+Andy S I do not have the exact model number. This unit is only a 14,000 odd BTU model. Rather surprisingly, it is designed for 120 volt use. It is from the late 80s or early 1990s. (Model number may be in the description.)
If the tag still exists on your unit, try taking a rubbing with a piece of paper and a pencil. Sometimes it works!
*****
Thanks a lot! Yeah. Early next week I'll better go there myself to take a look at the unit. Customer sent me just his pics of unit's front grill.. Thank you so much once again! Have a great weekend!
@uxwbill but u have it, there must be some interest :p
24,000 Window Shakers are not unusual. Common above the door in Old downtown liquor stores. Amana was an early manufacturer. You can see one in the movieSeven Year Itch.
14,000 BTU, 115 volt
i have huge ac in mg living room that requeirs a 250v line
@uxwbill Repairing a power amp isn't /hard/ per se, you only need to make sure you've caught *every single* (!) defective or out-of-spec component (Q, R, C, D, whatever). Use diodes as "power Q B-E simulators" if need be.
Moreover, be *extremely* paranoid when buying power transistors. Original Sankens are neither cheap nor a lot more common than hen's teeth. I'd give 2SC5242/2SA1962 a shot here (Fairchild; ISC may also be OK).
Check the bias current pot. Bad contact may mean burning up.
@uxwbill these kenmores nowadays are made by fridgidaire. that kenmore you have is made by fedders, fedders in the late 80`s to early 2000`s made kenmore, emerson, and "Summit" branded ac`s. Now their contract probably expired and sears now has a contract with fridgidare, (fridgidaire also makes kenmore refrigerators.) I have a 17,000 BTU Fridgidaire that would trip the breaker when running with my 2000 GE 12,500 BTU AC. When one dies, im gonna get an american made friedrich (:
Hello, how much does it weigh?
I don't know exactly. I would guess 75 pounds or more.
if you think 14,000 BTU is a lot you can get a 25,000 BTU made by frigidaire on amazon.
bet it still works till this day
Yes, it still works just fine.
Not a reciprocating compressor sadly. 😢
50 ounces of R22 in that unit?!?
I don't understand why this thing with the size it is why it's not a 220/240 volt unit.
Might be worth sending Maxxaracde a message. He's fixed a few receivers before.
@seanieb64 You better brush up on your thermodynamics before using one though. As anyone who watched the infamous THG processor burn-up video back in the day may know, displayed temperature depends on the surface's reflection coefficient. (There's no way in hell for a P4 running at full load with its cooler removed to have 29°C. Its heatspreader is nice and shiny metal though, which reflects more and emits less than the average surface the meter was calibrated for, hence the underreading.)
Ive got the same amp and it shit its self, hardly every used
I bet if that thing was a 240 volt it would not draw so much.
240 volts is better for larger AC units because with all else being equal, the amperage draw would be half of what it would be at 120 volts to provide the same cooling capacity. Cutting the amperage draw in half means that the unit's power wires don't have to be as thick, and is also generally easier to run and usually can be a little more efficient.
@uxwbill meh, fukkit.. punch a hole in the wall and stuff 'er there.. that's what we do in the Florida Keys for "ghetto central air" lol. I had a 10K BTU I did that with.. mine's a newer Fredrick though, might be an 8K, I'm not even sure at this point.. either way.. I pulled 3 20A UF-B cables in for that room.. LOL one for a future amp rack, one for the A/C, and one for the room, all 20AMP outlets, american or mexican made fixtures.. have fun, hope you find spot for it.