A couple years ago a mechanic told me it could be a fuel pump or just an O-ring, I said okay and I went home, I came back to pick up the car and he told me it was an o-ring which is a much less expensive item to fix. I told him you could have easily told me it was a fuel pump and charged me way more, his reply was great, he told me that he has to sleep at night. Now that's the first honest mechanic I ever met in 55 years.
I work at Firestone in Gainesville GA and used to work at the one in Flowery Branch GA and we love when customers or bosses as we call them. Come in and say something is wrong and we find out it's a simple fix like blowing out an air filter or re gapping a spark plug. We love honesty and we love our bosses.
That’s manure about re gapping plugs. With modern plugs and engines if the gap is not correct then they are ready for replacement. Are you working on antiques?
One rule my family and I have always followed: if you find a good mechanic, one that's honest, even if they're priced a bit higher than the discount place, STAY WITH THEM. You won't regret it. Treat them well, and they'll take care of you.
my dad had the same mechanic for years. Delta 88. lasted him for over thirty years. I had to drive his car to the mechanic for check ups which he was never billed for.
Nice video !...I am an ASE CertifIed Master Tech and I have ALWAYS treated my customers the way I would want myself and my family to be treated. Having said that, I need to advise you to change just one thing. Since the brake pad material does 2 things,the pads should be changed earlier that 90%. Besides stopping your vehicle,the pad material also dissipates heat. The thicker the pad,the better the heat dissipation. Changing the pads at about 70 % and you will be driving a little safer. All the best !
If you are ase certified first that means nothing to me because I have went through that and it was a joke ! Second of you agree with anything in this video then you sure are not a mechanic and the title tech just means you are schooled in computer ran engines it does not mean you are a mechanic , a mechanic understands how things work and knows that nothing in this video is true
@@fuzzyelm1 You are 100% correct Eddie. I'm sure you also smiled if not laughed out loud while watching this. Some UA-cam vids are extremely helpful, others not so much so to anyone reading this, please remember that an experienced, "honest" mechanic is always your best bet. After all you wouldn't bring your car to a dentist for repairs, right?
@Eddie McMahan I wouldn't say everything in this video is wrong But yeah there is a few things I dont agree with But hey Im not certified or anything so I guess I dont get a say in this
As a woman, I have had shops, mostly dealers, try to tell me I need things fixed, replaced or serviced that doesn't have to be. Luckily I know more than they think I do. And my husband is a car guy. I call him to ask if this is legit. But, because he was in the navy and was deployed a lot, I educated myself at basic things. I did call BS on a manager of service department about steering fluid change. He said it was the wrong color. But, I came back the next day with my husband and he asked him to show him the problem. Guess what? It was perfectly fine. We never went back again.
Oil change after 16000km and goodbye engine warranty .and probably an earlier camchain replacement. We have citybuses with extra oil tanks that adds 40 liters, so we can extend the oil change to 10000 km .
one scam I have found with batteries is the chargers themselves. modern battery chargers will not put a charge into a battery that is discharged down past 1 volt. this can happen and the battery is still fine, it just needs a charge but since the charger they got from harbor frieght wont put a charge into it they go buy a new one.
Luke Warmwater If the battery has depleted to a stage where it has 1v then wither you left your lights on or your battery is completely gone and crystallized. From here there is nothing you can do to revive it.
Have been with the same garage since 1976 the owner retired and sold it to a mechanic who worked there and I'm pleased to say it's still as honest as it was before it changed ownership. Prior to 1976 I'd been with the same garage since 1964 and only changed when we moved. Two great garages, can't fault either.
Before I moved to another town, I was told by an employee at a parts store that I needed a complete tune up and that included an inline fuel filter which was fine. Problem is some garages don't want to use customer supplied parts. I've been carrying it around for almost three years. Sooner or later l'll find someone to put it in. As for now, it's been running fine without it.
Hello there just need to say this about your vid- I was a mechanic in the military, went to the equivalent of a 3 yr school. Tested for a few ASE certifications while in one of which was for brake systems. That squeaking with your brakes is most likely (if you drive daily or often) not rust. It is actually a built-in warning system, which is rather ingenious. On your brake pads is a single thin metal tab which is only exposed once you're brake pads are worn down to near the limit of necessary replacement. When it's becomes exposed, it makes contact with the rotor, sometimes without even applying brakes, which in turn creates a loud screeching metal on metal sound. Alot of VERY (lots of emphasis) unscrupulous shitbird mechanic shops will simply snap off the metal tab, which then makes no contact with rotor, thus destroying your audible warning system. Next thing that happens- maybe break failure, warpage of pads/rotor THEN failure, friction, glowing pad amd rotor, melting parts then FAILURE...etc.,etc. So, have them replaced before you gotta replace *everything* concerning brakes. Or the lives of whoever is killed because of your failed brakes
My RAV4 screeches loudly when I back out of my driveway. I figured it was time to change my brakes. Shop said brakes are fine. At inspection time, I asked them to check the brakes. Same noise continues. They said the brakes are fine. 2 different shops. Neither mechanic mentioned rust. Still screeches after high humidity, but not all the time. I don't drive it too often. Usually 3 or 4 times a week.
#7 Note on loose cap, it's not that Oxygen enters the Fuel Tank that causes the Check Engine light. It's only that the tank can't pressurize as the cap is loose allowing air to escape. But same, same the loose cap is still the cause.
My good car owner practice : Listen and feel car once a week for problems change my oil every 4k Check oil levels once a week Check tire pressure once a week Check lug nuts once a week Check windshield fluid Check coolant Check power steering fluid Check break fluid Have a set of toolkit in the trunk Have boots and 1 jacket in trunk for winter Jumper or jumper cable in trunk Have extra coolant, break fluid, motor oil, windshield fluid in trunk Spare tire
Had a neighbor who was a mechanic at Sears up until he retired 15 years ago tell his family, neighbors and friends that the only reason you should take your car to Sears was for tires. Nothing else.
Change your oil every 10,000km or sooner especially an old engine with high milage, if you're burning more than a third of oil each flush that's bad. Rotating your tires comes in handy if you have a wheel alignment issue you can't afford to correct so switching tires around will at least beat them up evenly.. replace pads when you have a constant squeal, usually occurs from the squealer pin that will stick out past the pads when they hit a certain point of wear (as an indicator to replace)
Yes my mechanic told me he had just replaced 4 brake discs on a car that had a full service 3 months before, he said the pins holding in the disc were incorrect they should be flush, but they were overlapping quite a bit, this caused pads to wear a lot faster, just cheap to replace with correct sized pins, but if you didn't know this, then you would wonder why you have to replace pads so often😮
My wife was working closer to the Nissan service center than I was so it seemed a good idea to get her to take the car in for servicing. 3 times in a row they found that they had to replace the spark plugs and the spark plug leads. On the fourth servicing I went in myself and said to the guy "they don't make those spark plug leads like they used to, do they?". He thought it was highly unlikely that they would need replacing very often, so I asked him why they replaced them every time my wife brought the car in. He didn't have an answer to that.
I’m sure they didn’t have anything to say Hmmmm I wonder why ? I believe we all know why . What a shame I do feel for you though. Hope you find a honest shop soon.
?!? do u really not know that most ppl rely on independent shops to solve persistent problems these days? ie dealers are both incompetent, and also don't care and underdiagnose, and/or throw parts at problems. I hope your car is still under mfr warranty.
One tip, turn the heater on once every month even on warm weather, so the coolant recirculate through the heater core so it won't get rust and start leaking....
Most cars, it flows trough there all the time. It’s the blend doors in the HVAC unit that controls weather the fan forced air goes over the heater core element or the a/c evaporator. The best way to keep rust from developing is to either get test strips or a gauge for the coolant and change it when it starts to break down. The heater element breaks down first because it’s smaller, but if it fails, the same corrosion is likely in your radiator, it just may take longer to develop. They sell cheap test strips at most auto stores(Napa) and they are less than $10.
I change my engine oil about every 7 or 8 thousand miles. I drive about 8 to 10 thousand miles a mountain. My car is a 2020 with 155,000 on it and it runs like new. I haven’t needed to change brake pads yet as I do mostly highway driving. I changed spark plugs at 120,000 and trans fluid at the same. I turn on the AC and Heater once a month. I have changed wiper blades and I just did a belt check. Preventive maintenance is a must along with knowing your car. Investigate any odd sounds, didn’t wait for trouble. Engine filter and in cab filter should be kept clean.
If you check your owners manual you can probably go 10,000 miles in between oil changes with full synthetic oil which is what your car design to run with it being a 2020
If your mechanic tells you that the brake noises comes from rusty brake pads, get a new mechanic, get your facts straight. This video cracks me up! I'm pretty sure that some smaller companies try to get every penny out of people who lack experience, but trust me, there are a lot of trustworthy mechanics out there. Sure, MIL can turn on in addition to other warning lights but it could still be a lot of different problems. A fault code reader is barely enough to get to the real problem nowadays because of the complexity of engine monitoring and the increase in sensors and actuators. One small fault, like a vacuum leak, could lead to fault codes on a series of different sensors.
Twice in Arizona we had, on different vehicles, had mechanics tell us that our shocks were leaking and needed to be replaced. Both was when we were having our tire pressure checked in the morning. Both mechanics had a oil pump that they tried to hide from us. I was warned by a guy in Barstow to expect that to happen, also to watch if they checked your oil, because they often cut belts with a razor blade. I never let any one on a road trip under my hood. After getting stuck paying $126. For a water pump $200, labor and $19.for two gallons on antifreeze for a Dodge 318 again in Arizona , early in my Army Career while traveling cross country with 3 kids and a 8 month pregnant wife I do not trust mechanics while traveling. And some like a certain Chevy dealer in Davis, CA that are way less than honest and ethical.
@Stephan Dall Heard about that "shock" scam, too. A can of WD-40!! How about when they check your oil? The pull out the dipstick, wipe it, reinsert it, BUT not all the way. Pull it out & say "Oh, you're short a quart of oil!" On the side, they have an 'opened' quart with a tiny bit of oil so it looks like 1 quart is being added. "That'll be $10.00, please."
I used a mechanic in Anahein, Ca. Everytime he repaired it, he sited another major repair. 2 months later I spent $2800 before I took it to another mechanic who told me I was being ripped off. He did not do the repairs or used old worn parts.I had been going my original mechanic for years. The car was only 5 yrs old & I maintained regularly. Found out the mechanic's wife was pregnant (4th kid in 4 yrs) & he was knee high in debt. Get 2nd opinion for major work.
I had a mechanic that I first met because I ordered tires online and they were delivered to his shop cause it was closest to me…I’ve been with him ever since, two cars later…it’s been about 6 years and I stayed with him because one day I purchased upper and lower control arms for the front and back and asked him to put them on and he called me and said “you don’t need front you just need the back…return those parts and get your money back” and I’ve never went anywhere else….Jamaican guy who’s one of the most honest people I ever met
On point #2 dirty oil will most definitely damage your engine because there is dirt in your oil. If oil looks dark but is still under the manufactures recommend interval then it is dark but not dirty. Always follow your service manual and the manufacturers required service interval for oil changes or risk voiding your warranty. I could sit here for an hour typing about the things that are wrong with this video but all I can say is that when a UA-cam video tells you to pour coke over your car battery there is a good chance that they don’t know they are talking about.
Sounds like u are one those mechanic that he was talking about. I'm 72 years old and have cleaned my battery cables with coke. Also one car , 1991 Toyota Corolla, didn't change oil for 175,00 miles, 8 1/2 years, didn't do any harm to engine.
@@dennyhiett6271 I also had a 1991 chevrolet truck, bought it with 125,000 miles on it, changed the oil the day I bought it and never changed it again, pulled the engine out in 2014 because I was putting in something bigger but it still ran fine with no issues and had 302,000 miles, gave the engine to a friend who dropped it in a 73 camaro, never changed the oil and still drives it to this day, without changing the oil, adds a quart every 6 months or so but never changes it.
I can tell you from experience. Rotating your tires will give you 40% more life then not doing it. And yes. it helps the tread last longer and wear evenly
@@johnsecuila5924 wouldn't recommend going to high, 35psi at an absolute max unless its recommended higher, check your door jam or under the engine bay, or your owners manual. go off that unless you got aftermarket tires obviously
@@cheetahgaming3642 I always balance that door jamb with what my eyes see and common sense. I was running an auto shop back when Firestone recalled their ATX tires on the Ford Explorers. While the tires were not the best, the real issue is that Ford recommended that the tires be inflated to what, in my professional opinion was 4lbs to low, at 28psi. Thry recommended this to provide a softer ride on what was a ladder-on-frame truck, essentially. That low pressure causes an increase in heat that you wouldn't believe, leading to a failure of the tire inside and out. Soon enough you'll have cracking near the crown and a separation of the steel belts. I'm just saying, I was there in the middle of it all. That door jamb is NOT the be all end all.
As far As your tires wearing evenly that is entirely dependent on having a proper alignment done every time Your tires are Replaced alignment is crucial
Well said. And also, if you spray "WD 40 Gel " on your battery connections it will stop corrosion as well as keep the battery and the connections fresh. If you don't have that, vaseline will work just fine.
One thing I learned at some point in the ownership of my 1994 Buick Roadmaster station wagon (which is still running great), was to never let the fuel tank go below a quarter full of gasoline, and that is because the fuel pump, being inside the gas tank, can be faced with mechanical problems if there is not enough gas available for it to pump into the engine.
Here's something a lot of drivers don't know about! When the mechanic tells you your tires have too much tread wear on them, you need to buy new tires, but most of the time, the problem could be a bad inner or outer tie rod, a ball joint, a control arm or just need a front end alignment or tire balancing.
Yes, but no. Look at your tire wear indicators. If tire tread is at the same level, replace your tires. If you don't know what tire tread indicators are, ask. Not bashing Neil at all, please don't think that. But knowing what those indicators are and how to read them can save you money.
If tire wear is even across then no its low tired wear if it has un even wear like say a 5/32nd on one side and a 2/32nds on the other it is alignment wear get the facts before you spout please 😉
Changing tyres in 6-7 years is also recommended even.if the tread is not completely worn off as the aging cracks may damage the tyres due to the fact that rubber becomes hard over a period of time...
Young can't forget that preventive maintenance is the key. If you do not keep the correct tire pressure and rotate your tires as they should be per the manufacturer of the tire then yeah they're not going to last as long as they should. And yes of course if you have wore out in or out of tie rod lower control arm ball joint what have you I mean even strut it's going to do something to that tire absolutely.
My mechanic was adamant that I get my blinker fluid changed before winter, I'm glad I did because my car didn't have a problem all winter. He said he also put winter air in my tires because I was a "preferred" customer! What a guy!
The last mechanic I used warned me that the spark plugs were well knackered on my diesel pickup truck. I will stick with him, as my usual main dealer garage never mentioned it. Phew!! He said my big end could have gone!😮😮
Screeching brakes can also be dirt on the rotor, or a worn pad. Actually replacing pads on nearly every car is something anyone can do who has some familiarity with tools and a couple hours (at least for the first time). Note also that the FRONT brakes which do about 70% of the braking action, will go before the rear ones. Barring any cosmic rear suspension problems. That's important to note, when you go in for a "Brake job". Also, before agreeing to rotor replacement, look for yourself, AND run you hand over the rotors. If the scoring doesn't noticeably drag on you hand, you're probably GTG. Rule of thumb is rotors every other brake job.
Yeah, batteries used to be vented, but even so, the workshop bought unfilled batteries and when they sold one, they only then filled it with acid. Your new battery back then was truly new!
I really liked the line " It's always better to go to a garage only when there's really something wrong with your car " Here I always thought preventive maintenance was essential. Could you please do one of these videos on dentistry.
I rarely leave a negative comment, but I took automotive mechanics in high school. It’s obvious to me that a lot of the stuff being said here is simply bad advice or not true. Pouring cola on the battery terminals??? You take the terminal off and clean it with a wire brush to shine it up. You will cause more corrosion with cola. You can not have cheaper insurance for your car’s engine than running clean oil. I do it as per the vehicles manual. Kudos for trying to save people money.
I clean with coca cola. Never had any issues. I just pour a bottle's cap worth though. I finish with the wire brush and fine sand the terminals. I spray WD40 and it works too.
Coke cola will clean acid residue from a battery terminal You need to rinse it off afterwards and then coat it with red grease. There is a lot more to learn outside of high school. The teachers don't show you short cuts. A good mechanic, not a technician who will read a computer, will know much more from experience.
Few things: 1. Don't let your oil go for too long. Oil is cheap, an engine is not. 2. Tire rotation is necessary, especially if your car is not AWD. 3. If you traction, abs, and esc lights come on, don't worry too much, it's probably just a wheel speed sensor, which is a cheap repair if you do it yourself.
And as an addendum to #3, sometimes if those lights are on, it can still even be the battery. If the battery isn't delivering the proper voltage to those systems, it can trigger those warning lights. Seen it on various FCA vehicles (Fiat 500 for one, and a Dodge Dart).
I took my car for regular maintenance last September to a Toyota dealer’s service. After inspection the guy called me and said that the rear brakes pads needed to changed and immediately. How much was it going to cost me? $485.00! Of course, hearing that I decided to wait and look elsewhere for a deal. Lo and behold, It’s been 9 months and I have no problems with the brakes! Many mechanics are like loan sharks waiting for a prey.
What dude said about engine oil was crazy. Change it all the time. Keep the fluids clean, keep the friction down. Also a new battery and and new spark plugs will go far.
I've got a high mileage 98 Chevy Silverado 350 vortec, started getting some lifter chatter so I dumped some seafoam in there before I change the oil and it went away. Additives are not always bad just got to know when to use them.
Here in Costa Rica, we are required to an official, rigorous, and certified Full Car Inspection every single year plus at least Basic Insurance by law (so you get two visible stickers on your car for the police to see them). If something is wrong with your car at the Inspection, then you go to any mechanic, fix it, and come back for reinspection. I believe this is a great method to know exactly your ups and downs, thus avoids lots of scams from mechanics telling you lies.
I can tell you from working in a Tire Shop for 9 years. Rotations Do increase the life of the tires by even wear. Its a Huge thing that need to be done every 6 to 10 thousand miles. I won't go into the details and at my shop we offer that for free to the customers who have bought their tires from up. I love this channel and there are sketchy mechanics I suggest getting professional you trust in the business to help you with your decision making.
Former cat engine mechanic here, not much of an auto mechanic but one of the biggest scams I believe is the coolant flush. If I’m wrong I’ll be more than happy to hear the opposition.
Also don't leave your car battery on the concrete floor as the concrete drains the power from it over time.. Little tip.. Place the battery on a piece of wood..!!
I've been my own mechanic since age 15 68 now as well as an certified aircraft mechanic,still change my own oil-synthetic since 2nd oil change-average mileage per change 7 to 9 K, I screamed BS at all these fixes!
When a mechanic wants to replace a part, ask to get the old part back. If he's afraid that you can tell the part's okay, he may say the part doesn't need replacing after all, and at least he won't be able to use the part to fix someone else's car while charging for a new part.
this is a great video of what NOT TO DO. if you think your local shop is ripping you off seek a 2nd or even a 3rd opinion. I don't recommend any Mavis owned shop as they are shady AF and have been named in many law suits. (you can google that). I've been a mechanic for 45 years and have done my best to be honest with people. I've actually quit a couple of shops because of bad business practices. my wife and i are small business owners (we own a dog grooming salon) and we rely on word of mouth so we can retain our customers and gain new ones. so honesty is paramount to us. and that carries over to the garage i work for.
New cars are designed to assist mechanics in ripping you off. One broken sensor causes like 6 things to cease functioning but they actually are not broken. A sensor costs around $60 to replace.
@Peter Phillips I suspect some of the plastic comes from recycled garbage. They put it in because it makes cars lighter, improving miles per gallon, but I miss cars with metal bumpers and no computer under the hood. Cars should be able to run without any electricity after they have started.
seems like a good video for people who have no idea what they are doing however there are a few points with this video that I would have to disagree with on certain ages of vehicles. for example, in some instances, you do need additives. if you don't at zinc to your oil after you replace the cam the engine will tear itself apart. I learned that the hard way.
7,500 between oil changes is acceptable, but if you want your car to last a LONG time, 5000 miles (on a modern car) and 3000 miles (on an older car) is the recommended oil change interval.
agreed. guys if you have Toyota Camry don't change you oil at 10000miles doing this will curse of piston rings failed due to the burnt oil jamming the oil rings
It actually hurts my chest when I think about this. I remember as a young and unsuspecting 19 year old kid driving my ‘79 Ford F-150 from South Dakota to California for a vacation. Within 30 miles of my destination my truck stopped working. I got out and immediately realized that the drive shaft became disconnected. The drive shaft has 4 bolts that connect it to the rear differential. Hundreds of miles from home, I was forced to use a local mechanic. I had brought about $1000 with me for my vacation so the mechanic went and got me a new drive shaft and installed it and I remember that I was incredibly surprised when he called me within a couple of hours to tell me it was ready. I was so happy. I went down there and thanked him and he he told me that I owed him over $900! A drive shaft is not even $150 and to install it you just slip one end on, left the other end and bolt it on with 4 bolts. So he wanted between $700 and $800 for labor for 4 bolts. He wiped me out completely. He knew I was on vacation so I was desperate and he used it his advantage to charge me more. Over and over I have seen this throughout my life. I have literally never found a mechanic that won’t lie to you to get more of your money. I had a brand new 2015 Scion tC that I had made a deal when I bought to allow the dealership to do oil changes on the car up to 80,000 miles. Most of the time there was no problems. But there was a time when the dealership wanted to charge me for a part that I didn’t need them to change. Because they wanted to charge me a lot of money for it. So I turned them down and kept waiting for my car. I believe I waited 5 hours that day and was even there after they closed. When they pull my car around and I get in the first thing my eyes go to is my wiper blade. After some time they go bad and need to be replaced but my wipers were almost new, yet someone had ripped the blade off of my wiper all the way down to where it was just barely hanging on. I knew instantly that my car was getting messed with in that dealership. I went back and told them I know what he is doing out there. My wiper was find when I drove in and it was ripped when I left.vtutuuubyf
Got new tires from Sears, their mechanic said that I needed a new fuel line, that it was dirty and in danger of clogging... Hard to trust a mechanic who doesn't know what a good solvent and cleaner gasoline is
Asked my mechanic to change my brake pads and replace gear oil. Mechanic came back and told me that I do not need to replace it yet since everything is good. That is how you test your mechanic my friends.
True....a certain mechanic told my friend to replace a cvt gearbox that couldn't go forward but reverse only,another one recommended a replacement of the cvt wet clutch rings for a tiny fee. The car is fully functional now.
My mechanic is awesome! When he says something has 6 months left he means it. He will fix other things when he has the vehicle apart. He say why charge you for labor 10 times when he can take care of it all at once. He also will take payments if I don't have the whole amount. Been using him for almost 26 years now
One of the best tips would be to never let your gas get below 1/4 tank the Fuel pump in most vehicles is in the tanks now and depend on the Gas to keep them cool.
One thing about the dash lights. If your ABS or brake lights come on, you do need to look into those ASAP (especialy brake lights as this can indicate a problem with the braking system). Usually you can get by ignoring an ABS light for a while. Same for airbag warning lights too, as these can all be safety issues. Not all cars will illuminate the check engine light if another system is having a problem, such as the brakes or ABS or airbag. One other thing you should be aware of too is that some shops will try to sell you new parts (like exhaust manifolds because the look like they are rusty). Keep in mind that many of these parts are coated with an anti-corrosion material which makes them look rusty on the surface but that's normal). Rust, on the other hand, will bubble up and flake off, so be weary if someone tells you you need new exhaust manifolds or something like that because they look rusty. Obviously if there is pieces flaking off or you notice holes, then there may be an issue worth checking out, but I have heard stories about people paying to have exhaust manifolds replaced because they were told they were rusty when in fact they were perfectly fine. Most things like exhaust manifolds will have the appearance of rust either because of the coating, or will just appear that way after about 1-2 years of use. BAsically don't worry about those things unless you see holes or you hear changes in how your car operates (ie. changes in the exhaust sound or if you notice exhaust coming from around the engine area).
My brakes light came on in like September or August of 2022 found out a piece in the brake system broke off that tell the car it brake fluid level which I found out shortly after the brake lights came on. I took it to a trusted mechanic who check my brake system and the lines the only issues was the sensor the tells me the fluid level broke off and is in the container some where but as I got told beside that my car is still safe to drive. I can get the system replaced to remove the brakes light but is it really worth it in a 20 year old car from Honda? maybe or maybe not. just depends on the owner.
Watch out, too, when having an oil change that, afterwards, you notice spots of oil on your driveway or garage floor. Some mechanics fail to tighten the oil pan drain plug adequately so that you’ll return to tell the auto shop that you’re vehicle is leaking. Honest mistake? Maybe. Unless, the auto shop mechanic tells you your oil pan gasket needs to be replaced. That’ll cost some extra bucks - especially if the engine needs to be raised in order to get to the oil pan.
I only take my van to one mechanic have been going there for over 50 year saw his uncle and his dad for years now my friend is the owner will never go anywhere else tge place is called Budde Brothers in St. Charles Mo. Great service and very honest.
If any additives are needed, they will be listed in your owner's manual. Always use this manual to determine what weight oil to use and to determine other necessities like tire pressures.
No one gave a single like for this, but hundreds of likes for messages reccomending miracle in a can, and those claing their getting ripped off 99% of the time. Seems they have ripped themselves off of some common sense.
@Master Of puppets You are right. I am not from America. You are wrong. Tyres are not spelled incorrectly. It's just that they are spelled differently in most places outside of USA.
Thank you for this honest and informative video. I would add a code reader would come in handy for check engine faults and watch your fluid reservoirs monthly.
If you recieve a smallish hole in your radiator. Try adding black ground black pepper a tablespoon while engine is running. It sets like cement in the hole and will get out out of trouble for a while!
@Matt The Builder. I worked at a auto parts warehouse, and can tell you from my experience that I wouldn't drive Chevy or GMC if I can help it. One example of why - Had three service companies order a set of brake pads for a Chevy Z71 in one day, at different intervals. The rep took a set to the first place, and the pin holes were set just too far apart to install, the next place used the same set, and they were too close together, while the third truck they fit. It comes from the fact that Chevy's tolerances are not as strict as they really need to be (as with many American-made cars). Frankly, I would sooner drive a Toyota, Mazda, Honda, or Nissan. These brands have much stricter tolerances on their products.
What the most likely reason for squealing brake noise is usually the sound of a built-in wear indicator telling you that it's time for new brake pads but it could be a few other reasons that aren't dangerous for you cars safe operation...
Don't forget to grab a garbage bag and collect an exhaust sample, tie it up, and to give it to your mechanic. It'll help determine if the engine is taking in after market air.
3:13 no I don't agree . When break pads start to male noise mostly it's time for them to be replaced . Because there is a wearout pen that starts to scratch the surface of the hops to till you your pads wearout and needs to be replaced .
@@TheOneSymphony, If you're getting a grinding noise from your brakes, it's too late and probably have done some damage to the rotors or drums. Squeaking brakes need to be wiped ? lol, yeah, ok.
@@augustreil Dust will cause a squeak and the is not much you can do. Learn to check your own and if it is the noise maker change them, that last little bit of brake isn't worth the chance of damage.
@@mikecarr1484 don't get me wrong .. I can totally tune my own bike .. I had to do it right after I bought it because the store messed up when putting it together .. The bike really wasn't that expensive and very durable ... It's the parts they charge more ...
The dirt and sludge in oil won´t definitely not evaporate! Tip: If you see sticky dirt (like burnt coffee) in the bottom of the filler cap of the engine, you can safely conclude that the oil change intervals have been excessively long.
Even some bike mechanics are unbelievable. Once after my bike service I traveled Around 60 kms & half of my life was gone, when i found that frond wheels axis is almost came out from the wheel hub. A simple mistake he just forgot to tighten the nutbolts of front wheel. can you belive that!!!!
When buy a new bike, always make a check on everything to be thighten right. If you cannot, make the job done by the sellers or a professionnal. Usually when bike are in a show room, or build rapidly to be deliver ascsoon as possible, it's not rare that they didn't check their work twice.
I had changed driving belt, tensioner and anti-freeze recently with a mechanic and they charged me $100 price more than the dealer price. Because I had bought anti-freeze from the dealer a few months back, I caught him right-handed. The mechanic claimed it as a mistake and refunded the difference. Now I will think twice before going to that mechanic
Get your check your self code reader the are around $ 60.00 to $ 125.00 and well worth it they plug into a socket below the steering wheel below the dash trim and will give you codes if you plug it in and check the code write it down and Google it , bear in mind some cars have more than 1 codes , bear in mind the motor must be running when you do this check . When I used to take this to say Auto Zone or Advance always needed
Make sure to change your blinker fluid regularly too if not “it could cost you an arm and a leg” in the long run. Refer to your local mechanic for help if needed.
Going by the company recommended miles will do no harm for your car. Company always recommend 5k miles less than what is analysed through tests before the cars are released.
@@Laljitsan Guaranteed? Thats only if I enroll before certain miles. Both of my cars are high mileage. $25 every 3k miles is cheap enough. And I drive my cars hard anyway.
Im a mechanic of 15 years. Some of this is true. Some is not. All mechanics are NOT all trying to rob you and are dishonest. Alot of times its the shop they work at trying to hype the numbers. Tho alot of shops will work with you as best the can to help you out. Just remember that when you pay, your paying the shop, the tech that worked on it, taxes, and disposal fees.
Rotating your tires does help. Your steer tires round more at the edges, this happens from turning. Rear tires are always running in a straight line, their edges shouldn't round as much as front. I change my oil at around 5,000 miles, since I do it myself the cost is nothing compare to premature engine wear. I also use an oil filter that would be found on a pick up truck with the same engine as my '99 camry 4 cylinder. They're a little longer in length, this gives more filtration available. I used to do the same thing on all the chevy cars I owned. They cost the same money too.
With changing your engine oil, it should be done AT LEAST as often as the manufacturer recommends. For example, if your car's handbook says to change the oil every 10,000 miles or 12 months, you pick whichever of these occurs first. This is especially true if you have a car that is still under warranty. If you fail to do this and something goes wrong, then you will have no hope of making a successful warranty claim, and it is a proven fact that the law will protect the manufacturer on that front.
Maybe under warranty, but otherwise use common sense. My Grandmother seemed to lack some and had her oil changed yearly after only driving between 500 and 1000 miles per year. Her mechanics finally set her straight after a few years and looking at he records. LOL
As someone who's been in the automotive repair business for almost 20 years, I can tell you that not rotating your tires will cause premature/uneven wear.
I disagree. I decided to stop having my tires rotated after having it done at 20,000 miles. I monitored them all the way up to 77,000 miles and never saw uneven wear. Of course by that time the tread was worn enough to get new tires, as you would expect. I now have 40,000 miles on the new tires, and there is no sign of uneven wear. The car is a Colorado extended cab pickup truck, so maybe the tires are more heavy duty than tires for a compact car. So the type of car and its tires may make a difference.
@@gmason3688 Not sure what your running for tires, but I mostly see just the opposite. People come with 20k and need at least 2 new tires because they weren't rotated. I witnessed this scenario 1,000's of times over many years.
@@gmason3688 the front tires on pickups have much less casture and camber let alone there is no camber toe or casture on the rear though so those shouldnt wear unevenly. On fwd cars the front end alignment has much more toe, camber, and casture
My favorite : "I LEGALLY CAN'T REALLY LET YOU LEAVE WITH THOSE ...Tires , breaks, tie rod ends ETC" Any one whos a little older remembers jalopies ...LOL The tire guy brought out a gauge and said ..."You see how low your tread is ...Its very dangerous ." That was a year ago ...theres still an 1/8 inch of tread on them
I have found that changing my oil every 5,000km (yes I live in Canada) my fuel milage is better. I can notice at 7,000 km on an oil change that my fuel milage wasn't as good as changing it at the 5,000 km mark. plus its a lot easier to remember to change your oil at 5,000 km. and the amount of money I save on gas due to changing my oil at 5,000 km is cheaper than spending extra money on gas in the long run plus helps prolong the engine life of my car.
Oil burns off and evaporates??? You mean oil that passed the rings burns and leaves carbon deposits that get dragged in to the sump which is the dirt!!! Awful advice!
@Khidreal in fact currently (certainly in Europe) engines are designed TO use a little oil. the use of thinner oils (5w30 is common and has been increasingly so for over 25 years now) means it passes the rings and into the combustion chamber more easily, but tolerances cant be tightened or excessive drag and wear will be caused, either (or both) of which will increase the emissions levels.
@Khidreal Nonsense, that is not called an oil evaporation process and the oil does not "actually evaporates", rather it BURNS. Plus, it is not normal for any engine to need to top it off within the old 3K change interval until it is worn out, unless it uses a poor design. Now that oil change intervals are stretching from synthetic oil, it becomes more than doubly likely you might top the oil off, but it is still more of an engine flaw than an acceptable thing for a newer vehicle.
Well you kind of contradict your self with the engine oil. 1 you say "keep topping it up" yet at the end you say "change your oil regularly". So which is it?
It said 7500 to 10,000 miles (5,000+ for me) between changes. But Don't let it get too low on the Oil Levels. SO Add some In between, Total change outs.
First , Oil does NOT evaporate!!!! Second , combustion of fuel produces harmful contaminants that get in the oil that can cause engine damage if left in too long, also the additives in the oil designed to augment the wear protection the engine oil provides for the engine begin to break down after 3000 miles that’s why you need to change it at 3000 mile intervals!! Leaving it in longer than that is foolhardy!!! Third. the gas cap can cause a code ( check engine light) if you take the cap off to refuel with the engine running. That sets an emissions system code because you break the slight vacuum in the tank that’s there to collect gas fumes in the tank so they can be burned in the engine and not released to the atmosphere. sensors in the gas tank will read the lack of vacuum and set an emissions code (CEL). The emissions code will clear after a number of ignition key cycles.
I drive a front wheel drive car. The tyres on the front wheels always wear much, much quicker than those on the rear wheels. The tyres on the front wheels of all cars should be regularly checked for damage or uneven wear. They will quickly show up uneven wear if the tracking is not spot on or tyre pressure is not correct. When the front tyres show only 4mm of tread I move the front wheels to the rear axle and 2 new tyres to be put on the front (driving and steering)wheels. Always change both wheels on the same axle and ensure that the tyres are of the same manufacturer and of the right specification for your driving style and practice. Google for tyre specifications. Rear tyres are changed when only 1.5 mm of tread is left. Again the new tyres go on the front. Tyres will last much longer if you avoid rapid acceleration, fast cornering, braking hard and not slowing right down if the road surface is uneven. Never bump up a kerb. Limit your speed for the first 100 miles if you have fitted new tyres.
If your tyres are changed by the tyre shop always check wheel nuts are correctly tightened after about 50klm driving or when you get home. Sometimes they get the juniors to change tyres and they forget to tighten the nuts correctly.
im mechanic, and 1st go to a big company to het ur car fixed they are less likely to scam you bc there is a lot more people involved 2. take ur car related issues seriously ive seen some people come in with a car thats really dangerous to go anywhere in, and PLEASE dont cheap out on ur tyres thats among the most important thing to take seriously
Classic & antique vehicles ran on leaded fuel .... gasoline that originally HAD lead inside the fuel, which aided in the lubrication of the engines! This lubrication was removed when UNleaded fuel was introduced, and LEADED fuel was removed from the market. Now, anyone who owns a classic/antique vehicle (with an original UNREBUILT engine) actually MUST use a Lead Fuel Additive, in order to keep their engines from knocking, and eventually seizing up!! So...... YES!!! Some people DO NEEEEED to use additives... and it’s NOT ‘just a scam’!! ** The rebuilt engine would have to have all of the seals, bearings, gaskets, etc replaced with modern updated versions... which are rated for unleaded fuel.... not the older seals, which were designed/rated solely for leaded fuels.
I think they were more referring to current cars not classics. Its obvious that a car with a different fuel system and requirement would need an additive
WRONG ! Seals, bearings, gaskets is not necessary to change, but the valves and valve-seats. If not, they will burn. If you start using the fuel with methanol mixed in (Called E-85 in Europe) then you will have to change seals and gaskets, as the methanol "eats" old-time rubber.
wow someone is gonna end up suing the owner of this video lol turbo vehicles must have oil changes due to the fact that same oil in the engine is what lubricates some of the bearings in the turbos and the second fact is you can't put used brake pads on new rotors or they won't seat properly and you could risk not only yourself but those other drivers on the road in an accident!
Most oil leaks happen from the valve cover gasket. If you notice an oil leak or your engine has oil appear on the outside. simple thing to check is where the highest point of the oil is on the outside of the engine block. oil never runs upward so the highest point is the location of the leak. Don't always assume its the "head gasket". the head gasket gets machined to fit where as the valve cover gasket is just a rubber or cork piece that you can replace at home. If your engine is running perfect but there is oil leaking from the top valve cover then you don't have much to worry about other than topping up oil as it leaks out. This can be done at home with just a torque wrench and some cleaning brushes or clothes.
John Bockelie the only problem using baking soda to clean corroded battery posts is it's a base and a battery is an acid if the baking soda gets in to the battery it could neutralize the battery acid and battery will no longer work, if you just pour very warm water on posts it will clean with out this risk
Yes ma'am we will check everything, skeet ball bearings, tea bag steering wheel, parking fluid, brake dust actuators, 1st gear rev limiter bounce, reverse top speed indicator, engine temp Redline gauge test, rigorously retest All Above tests. Then check all fluids, pump balls, rod flinger, skeet valve, blinker if applicable to your make and model, tea bag interior components and finalize all checks. Only $49.99. Sound good we'll get right on it ma'am you look very nice today... and thank you for choosing pervert and Sons Garage..
Nice information 👌. Most manufacturers recommend change of engine oil at 10000 kilometers or one year whichever is earlier. What is your advice if the vehicle is run only for 3000 kms during one year period or can change whenever it covers 10000 kms
Yeah, just about every person I know has said to rotate tires, I've even rotated in the spare tire so it doesn't just rot down there and you'll know if it ever needs replaced.
Tom Moore So you disagree with what he says about the battery? I must admit, that he didn’t mention a loose alternator belt ( which can cause an alternator to go bad) thus drain your battery. I’ve seen this many of times and people buy a new battery, only to have it drained again, then it’s discovered, that the alternator is bad and they ended up replacing both. The same holds true with loose or corroded cables.
Nothing helps battery connections more than a wipe of Vaseline to block the corrosive action when installing the positive & negative terminals onto your battery. Plus wiggle the connections left are right before tightening them down just to dig them in so to speak.
#7 low brake fluid level will usually cause all of the warning lights to come on. If it is that low, the brake pads are very worn, or there is a leak!! It is NORMAL for all of the lights to come on during starting the engine. Air bag will flash a few times than turn off. A quick stop at an auto parts place can give you the code for some lights. But do not have them erase the code. It will be important for a technician to properly diagnose the conditions that were present when the code set. Eg: ambient temperature, engine temperature, engine load and speed, ignition run cycles. Etc.
It's extremely important to rotate FWD car wheels. I have seen many cars with bald front tires and like new rear tires because the front ones bare most of the weight and do most of the work.
A couple years ago a mechanic told me it could be a fuel pump or just an O-ring, I said okay and I went home, I came back to pick up the car and he told me it was an o-ring which is a much less expensive item to fix. I told him you could have easily told me it was a fuel pump and charged me way more, his reply was great, he told me that he has to sleep at night. Now that's the first honest mechanic I ever met in 55 years.
I work at Firestone in Gainesville GA and used to work at the one in Flowery Branch GA and we love when customers or bosses as we call them. Come in and say something is wrong and we find out it's a simple fix like blowing out an air filter or re gapping a spark plug. We love honesty and we love our bosses.
that's because he's not a sociopath...
I need one like him
That’s manure about re gapping plugs. With modern plugs and engines if the gap is not correct then they are ready for replacement. Are you working on antiques?
0
One rule my family and I have always followed: if you find a good mechanic, one that's honest, even if they're priced a bit higher than the discount place, STAY WITH THEM. You won't regret it. Treat them well, and they'll take care of you.
True...
Right
Yes a golden rule I always followed, in the 3 times I was forced to use a major service with many employees I was ripped off big time by each of them.
Yep ive been in bis for 22 years I can't take new people in and my people over pay me and thank me daily
my dad had the same mechanic for years. Delta 88. lasted him for over thirty years. I had to drive his car to the mechanic for check ups which he was never billed for.
Nice video !...I am an ASE CertifIed Master Tech and I have ALWAYS treated my customers the way I would want myself and my family to be treated. Having said that, I need to advise you to change just one thing. Since the brake pad material does 2 things,the pads should be changed earlier that 90%. Besides stopping your vehicle,the pad material also dissipates heat. The thicker the pad,the better the heat dissipation. Changing the pads at about 70 % and you will be driving a little safer. All the best !
Ty son🤗
If you are ase certified first that means nothing to me because I have went through that and it was a joke ! Second of you agree with anything in this video then you sure are not a mechanic and the title tech just means you are schooled in computer ran engines it does not mean you are a mechanic , a mechanic understands how things work and knows that nothing in this video is true
@@fuzzyelm1 Your atrocious spelling and poor grammar does not make you look at all credible.
@@fuzzyelm1 You are 100% correct Eddie. I'm sure you also smiled if not laughed out loud while watching this.
Some UA-cam vids are extremely helpful, others not so much so to anyone reading this, please remember that an experienced, "honest" mechanic is always your best bet. After all you wouldn't bring your car to a dentist for repairs, right?
@Eddie McMahan I wouldn't say everything in this video is wrong
But yeah there is a few things I dont agree with
But hey Im not certified or anything so I guess I dont get a say in this
As a woman, I have had shops, mostly dealers, try to tell me I need things fixed, replaced or serviced that doesn't have to be. Luckily I know more than they think I do. And my husband is a car guy. I call him to ask if this is legit. But, because he was in the navy and was deployed a lot, I educated myself at basic things. I did call BS on a manager of service department about steering fluid change. He said it was the wrong color. But, I came back the next day with my husband and he asked him to show him the problem. Guess what? It was perfectly fine. We never went back again.
As a mechanic, I hope everyone follows this advice! That will keep me busy working for years!
Oil change after 16000km and goodbye engine warranty .and probably an earlier camchain replacement. We have citybuses with extra oil tanks that adds 40 liters, so we can extend the oil change to 10000 km .
one scam I have found with batteries is the chargers themselves. modern battery chargers will not put a charge into a battery that is discharged down past 1 volt. this can happen and the battery is still fine, it just needs a charge but since the charger they got from harbor frieght wont put a charge into it they go buy a new one.
Luke Warmwater
If the battery has depleted to a stage where it has 1v then wither you left your lights on or your battery is completely gone and crystallized. From here there is nothing you can do to revive it.
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Alex you can charge your battery with a battery charger
Have been with the same garage since 1976 the owner retired and sold it to a mechanic who worked there and I'm pleased to say it's still as honest as it was before it changed ownership. Prior to 1976 I'd been with the same garage since 1964 and only changed when we moved. Two great garages, can't fault either.
Before I moved to another town, I was told by an employee at a parts store that I needed a complete tune up and that included an inline fuel filter which was fine. Problem is some garages don't want to use customer supplied parts. I've been carrying it around for almost three years. Sooner or later l'll find someone to put it in. As for now, it's been running fine without it.
Hello there just need to say this about your vid- I was a mechanic in the military, went to the equivalent of a 3 yr school. Tested for a few ASE certifications while in one of which was for brake systems. That squeaking with your brakes is most likely (if you drive daily or often) not rust. It is actually a built-in warning system, which is rather ingenious. On your brake pads is a single thin metal tab which is only exposed once you're brake pads are worn down to near the limit of necessary replacement. When it's becomes exposed, it makes contact with the rotor, sometimes without even applying brakes, which in turn creates a loud screeching metal on metal sound. Alot of VERY (lots of emphasis) unscrupulous shitbird mechanic shops will simply snap off the metal tab, which then makes no contact with rotor, thus destroying your audible warning system. Next thing that happens- maybe break failure, warpage of pads/rotor THEN failure, friction, glowing pad amd rotor, melting parts then FAILURE...etc.,etc. So, have them replaced before you gotta replace *everything* concerning brakes. Or the lives of whoever is killed because of your failed brakes
Thanks for all of your advice. I agree with the advice "read your owner's manual," to find out what is best for your ride.
It's there for a purpose when it Screeches pads on the way out.
Alleays fit both sides.
My RAV4 screeches loudly when I back out of my driveway. I figured it was time to change my brakes. Shop said brakes are fine. At inspection time, I asked them to check the brakes. Same noise continues. They said the brakes are fine. 2 different shops. Neither mechanic mentioned rust. Still screeches after high humidity, but not all the time.
I don't drive it too often. Usually 3 or 4 times a week.
#7 Note on loose cap, it's not that Oxygen enters the Fuel Tank that causes the Check Engine light.
It's only that the tank can't pressurize as the cap is loose allowing air to escape.
But same, same the loose cap is still the cause.
My good car owner practice :
Listen and feel car once a week for problems
change my oil every 4k
Check oil levels once a week
Check tire pressure once a week
Check lug nuts once a week
Check windshield fluid
Check coolant
Check power steering fluid
Check break fluid
Have a set of toolkit in the trunk
Have boots and 1 jacket in trunk for winter
Jumper or jumper cable in trunk
Have extra coolant, break fluid, motor oil, windshield fluid in trunk
Spare tire
That's what my Pops did. That's what I do.
might as well not drive itself@!
Don't have the radio on for the first few minutes of a drive, that way you can hear if a problem has appeared.
1000% buddy
Brake
Had a neighbor who was a mechanic at Sears up until he retired 15 years ago tell his family, neighbors and friends that the only reason you should take your car to Sears was for tires. Nothing else.
Or a stove or refrigerator.🤣
Change your oil every 10,000km or sooner especially an old engine with high milage, if you're burning more than a third of oil each flush that's bad. Rotating your tires comes in handy if you have a wheel alignment issue you can't afford to correct so switching tires around will at least beat them up evenly.. replace pads when you have a constant squeal, usually occurs from the squealer pin that will stick out past the pads when they hit a certain point of wear (as an indicator to replace)
I change my oil in my 95' Nissan Hardbody every 1000 miles.
Oil is cheap.
Yes my mechanic told me he had just replaced 4 brake discs on a car that had a full service 3 months before, he said the pins holding in the disc were incorrect they should be flush, but they were overlapping quite a bit, this caused pads to wear a lot faster, just cheap to replace with correct sized pins, but if you didn't know this, then you would wonder why you have to replace pads so often😮
My wife was working closer to the Nissan service center than I was so it seemed a good idea to get her to take the car in for servicing. 3 times in a row they found that they had to replace the spark plugs and the spark plug leads. On the fourth servicing I went in myself and said to the guy "they don't make those spark plug leads like they used to, do they?". He thought it was highly unlikely that they would need replacing very often, so I asked him why they replaced them every time my wife brought the car in. He didn't have an answer to that.
I’m sure they didn’t have anything to say Hmmmm I wonder why ? I believe we all know why . What a shame I do feel for you though. Hope you find a honest shop soon.
?!? do u really not know that most ppl rely on independent shops to solve persistent problems these days? ie dealers are both incompetent, and also don't care and underdiagnose, and/or throw parts at problems. I hope your car is still under mfr warranty.
thieves.
One tip, turn the heater on once every month even on warm weather, so the coolant recirculate through the heater core so it won't get rust and start leaking....
Most cars, it flows trough there all the time. It’s the blend doors in the HVAC unit that controls weather the fan forced air goes over the heater core element or the a/c evaporator. The best way to keep rust from developing is to either get test strips or a gauge for the coolant and change it when it starts to break down. The heater element breaks down first because it’s smaller, but if it fails, the same corrosion is likely in your radiator, it just may take longer to develop. They sell cheap test strips at most auto stores(Napa) and they are less than $10.
Thanks!
Vindt ik leerryk👍
Same for A.C. in the winter.
@@rapson672 Your a/cc comes on whenever the defrost is on.
I change my engine oil about every 7 or 8 thousand miles. I drive about 8 to 10 thousand miles a mountain. My car is a 2020 with 155,000 on it and it runs like new. I haven’t needed to change brake pads yet as I do mostly highway driving. I changed spark plugs at 120,000 and trans fluid at the same. I turn on the AC and Heater once a month. I have changed wiper blades and I just did a belt check. Preventive maintenance is a must along with knowing your car. Investigate any odd sounds, didn’t wait for trouble. Engine filter and in cab filter should be kept clean.
If you check your owners manual you can probably go 10,000 miles in between oil changes with full synthetic oil which is what your car design to run with it being a 2020
If your mechanic tells you that the brake noises comes from rusty brake pads, get a new mechanic, get your facts straight. This video cracks me up! I'm pretty sure that some smaller companies try to get every penny out of people who lack experience, but trust me, there are a lot of trustworthy mechanics out there. Sure, MIL can turn on in addition to other warning lights but it could still be a lot of different problems. A fault code reader is barely enough to get to the real problem nowadays because of the complexity of engine monitoring and the increase in sensors and actuators. One small fault, like a vacuum leak, could lead to fault codes on a series of different sensors.
Twice in Arizona we had, on different vehicles, had mechanics tell us that our shocks were leaking and needed to be replaced. Both was when we were having our tire pressure checked in the morning. Both mechanics had a oil pump that they tried to hide from us.
I was warned by a guy in Barstow to expect that to happen, also to watch if they checked your oil, because they often cut belts with a razor blade. I never let any one on a road trip under my hood. After getting stuck paying $126. For a water pump $200, labor and $19.for two gallons on antifreeze for a Dodge 318 again in Arizona , early in my Army Career while traveling cross country with 3 kids and a 8 month pregnant wife I do not trust mechanics while traveling.
And some like a certain Chevy dealer in Davis, CA that are way less than honest and ethical.
@Stephan Dall Heard about that "shock" scam, too. A can of WD-40!!
How about when they check your oil? The pull out the dipstick, wipe it, reinsert it, BUT not all the way. Pull it out & say "Oh, you're short a quart of oil!" On the side, they have an 'opened' quart with a tiny bit of oil so it looks like 1 quart is being added. "That'll be $10.00, please."
Well y'all just reached 100 MILLION tax dollars in lawsuit awards because of Ol' Joe Arpaio.Maybe honesty and integrity aren't native to Arizona.
I used a mechanic in Anahein, Ca. Everytime he repaired it, he sited another major repair. 2 months later I spent $2800 before I took it to another mechanic who told me I was being ripped off. He did not do the repairs or used old worn parts.I had been going my original mechanic for years. The car was only 5 yrs old & I maintained regularly. Found out the mechanic's wife was pregnant (4th kid in 4 yrs) & he was knee high in debt. Get 2nd opinion for major work.
Hey guys, do you have a car? What type is it?
A Cat!?.....A car you want to say!
I have a two Seat Ibiza 2.0 Gti.
A Q5 2018 , very good car
And a series 5
I love your videos 😍👍🏾
Gotta’ get ‘em Cats?...
Yëë mean a Diesel Catalytic Converter? 🥴
I had a mechanic that I first met because I ordered tires online and they were delivered to his shop cause it was closest to me…I’ve been with him ever since, two cars later…it’s been about 6 years and I stayed with him because one day I purchased upper and lower control arms for the front and back and asked him to put them on and he called me and said “you don’t need front you just need the back…return those parts and get your money back” and I’ve never went anywhere else….Jamaican guy who’s one of the most honest people I ever met
On point #2 dirty oil will most definitely damage your engine because there is dirt in your oil. If oil looks dark but is still under the manufactures
recommend interval then it is dark but not dirty. Always follow your service manual and the manufacturers required service interval for oil changes or risk voiding your warranty. I could sit here for an hour typing about the things that are wrong with this video but all I can say is that when a UA-cam video tells you to pour coke over your car battery there is a good chance that they don’t know they are talking about.
Sounds like u are one those mechanic that he was talking about. I'm 72 years old and have cleaned my battery cables with coke. Also one car , 1991 Toyota Corolla, didn't change oil for 175,00 miles, 8 1/2 years, didn't do any harm to engine.
also using synthetic oil will help if you have a high mileage engine
@@dennyhiett6271 I also had a 1991 chevrolet truck, bought it with 125,000 miles on it, changed the oil the day I bought it and never changed it again, pulled the engine out in 2014 because I was putting in something bigger but it still ran fine with no issues and had 302,000 miles, gave the engine to a friend who dropped it in a 73 camaro, never changed the oil and still drives it to this day, without changing the oil, adds a quart every 6 months or so but never changes it.
@@leobonin780 I was about to ask if you added any. I guess the new cars are built way different.
@@dennyhiett6271 I clean mine with coca cola too!
I can tell you from experience. Rotating your tires will give you 40% more life then not doing it. And yes. it helps the tread last longer and wear evenly
This is true due to the weight of the engine. It is also a good idea to add a few PSI to the front tires to offset the excess weight
@@johnsecuila5924 wouldn't recommend going to high, 35psi at an absolute max unless its recommended higher, check your door jam or under the engine bay, or your owners manual. go off that unless you got aftermarket tires obviously
@@cheetahgaming3642 I always balance that door jamb with what my eyes see and common sense. I was running an auto shop back when Firestone recalled their ATX tires on the Ford Explorers. While the tires were not the best, the real issue is that Ford recommended that the tires be inflated to what, in my professional opinion was 4lbs to low, at 28psi. Thry recommended this to provide a softer ride on what was a ladder-on-frame truck, essentially. That low pressure causes an increase in heat that you wouldn't believe, leading to a failure of the tire inside and out. Soon enough you'll have cracking near the crown and a separation of the steel belts.
I'm just saying, I was there in the middle of it all. That door jamb is NOT the be all end all.
also really easy to do
As far As your tires wearing evenly that is entirely dependent on having a proper alignment done every time Your tires are Replaced alignment is crucial
Well said. And also, if you spray "WD 40 Gel " on your battery connections it will stop corrosion as well as keep the battery and the connections fresh. If you don't have that, vaseline will work just fine.
One thing I learned at some point in the ownership of my 1994 Buick Roadmaster station wagon (which is still running great), was to never let the fuel tank go below a quarter full of gasoline, and that is because the fuel pump, being inside the gas tank, can be faced with mechanical problems if there is not enough gas available for it to pump into the engine.
Here's something a lot of drivers don't know about! When the mechanic tells you your tires have too much tread wear on them, you need to buy new tires, but most of the time, the problem could be a bad inner or outer tie rod, a ball joint, a control arm or just need a front end alignment or tire balancing.
Yes, but no. Look at your tire wear indicators. If tire tread is at the same level, replace your tires. If you don't know what tire tread indicators are, ask. Not bashing Neil at all, please don't think that. But knowing what those indicators are and how to read them can save you money.
If tire wear is even across then no its low tired wear if it has un even wear like say a 5/32nd on one side and a 2/32nds on the other it is alignment wear get the facts before you spout please 😉
Neil, I agree with you on that one. I had bad control arm n all my tie rods were bad. I also need front end alignment too.
Changing tyres in 6-7 years is also recommended even.if the tread is not completely worn off as the aging cracks may damage the tyres due to the fact that rubber becomes hard over a period of time...
Young can't forget that preventive maintenance is the key. If you do not keep the correct tire pressure and rotate your tires as they should be per the manufacturer of the tire then yeah they're not going to last as long as they should. And yes of course if you have wore out in or out of tie rod lower control arm ball joint what have you I mean even strut it's going to do something to that tire absolutely.
My mechanic was adamant that I get my blinker fluid changed before winter, I'm glad I did because my car didn't have a problem all winter. He said he also put winter air in my tires because I was a "preferred" customer! What a guy!
Amazon sells blinker fluid so you should do it yourself, LOL!
What a mechanic you got! Does your mechanic changes your engine salt and tyre oil???
@@rohan_3128 Every 2000 miles like clock work!
The last mechanic I used warned me that the spark plugs were well knackered on my diesel pickup truck. I will stick with him, as my usual main dealer garage never mentioned it. Phew!! He said my big end could have gone!😮😮
This is why I learn how or have a mechanic friend do it for me.
Also its not always rust for screeching brakes. Sometimes its a worn out brack
Screeching brakes can also be dirt on the rotor, or a worn pad. Actually replacing pads on nearly every car is something anyone can do who has some familiarity with tools and a couple hours (at least for the first time). Note also that the FRONT brakes which do about 70% of the braking action, will go before the rear ones. Barring any cosmic rear suspension problems. That's important to note, when you go in for a "Brake job". Also, before agreeing to rotor replacement, look for yourself, AND run you hand over the rotors. If the scoring doesn't noticeably drag on you hand, you're probably GTG. Rule of thumb is rotors every other brake job.
Yeah, batteries used to be vented, but even so, the workshop bought unfilled batteries and when they sold one, they only then filled it with acid. Your new battery back then was truly new!
I really liked the line " It's always better to go to a garage only when there's really something wrong with your car " Here I always thought preventive maintenance was essential. Could you please do one of these videos on dentistry.
I'm 64 yrs old & haven't been to a dentist since I was 16 Oh also, I'm Vegan - no dairy - I got weaned, rotting flesh, eggs or honey & I can run
@@avawhetton1713of course you are. I saw it on your badge.
I rarely leave a negative comment, but I took automotive mechanics in high school.
It’s obvious to me that a lot of the stuff being said here is simply bad advice or not true.
Pouring cola on the battery terminals??? You take the terminal off and clean it with a wire brush to shine it up. You will cause more corrosion with cola.
You can not have cheaper insurance for your car’s engine than running clean oil. I do it as per the vehicles manual.
Kudos for trying to save people money.
I clean with coca cola. Never had any issues. I just pour a bottle's cap worth though. I finish with the wire brush and fine sand the terminals. I spray WD40 and it works too.
Coke cola will clean acid residue from a battery terminal You need to rinse it off afterwards and then coat it with red grease. There is a lot more to learn outside of high school. The teachers don't show you short cuts. A good mechanic, not a technician who will read a computer, will know much more from experience.
Few things:
1. Don't let your oil go for too long. Oil is cheap, an engine is not.
2. Tire rotation is necessary, especially if your car is not AWD.
3. If you traction, abs, and esc lights come on, don't worry too much, it's probably just a wheel speed sensor, which is a cheap repair if you do it yourself.
And as an addendum to #3, sometimes if those lights are on, it can still even be the battery. If the battery isn't delivering the proper voltage to those systems, it can trigger those warning lights. Seen it on various FCA vehicles (Fiat 500 for one, and a Dodge Dart).
I took my car for regular maintenance last September to a Toyota dealer’s service. After inspection the guy called me and said that the rear brakes pads needed to changed and immediately. How much was it going to cost me? $485.00! Of course, hearing that I decided to wait and look elsewhere for a deal. Lo and behold, It’s been 9 months and I have no problems with the brakes! Many mechanics are like loan sharks waiting for a prey.
If you hear a knocking sound in your engine get a louder sound system
Hahahahaha
Or add oil
That’s what I’ve done
worked for me. the louder it gets the bigger the amp I put in.
in high school back in the 90s i had a pontiac grand am , there was a noise outside the car i did play the radio louder , LOL the good old days
What dude said about engine oil was crazy. Change it all the time. Keep the fluids clean, keep the friction down. Also a new battery and and new spark plugs will go far.
I've got a high mileage 98 Chevy Silverado 350 vortec, started getting some lifter chatter so I dumped some seafoam in there before I change the oil and it went away. Additives are not always bad just got to know when to use them.
It just quiets them down but they are just stuck. You are just going to harm the camshaft
Ignorance is "a Money a Tree" for Garages".
Knowledge for the "Normal car 🚙 Owner = "Money I could use for something Else".
Here in Costa Rica, we are required to an official, rigorous, and certified Full Car Inspection every single year plus at least Basic Insurance by law (so you get two visible stickers on your car for the police to see them). If something is wrong with your car at the Inspection, then you go to any mechanic, fix it, and come back for reinspection. I believe this is a great method to know exactly your ups and downs, thus avoids lots of scams from mechanics telling you lies.
New cars over 3 years must have a safety inspection here in my state in Australia - but the other states are different
@@matthewbrown6163 oh. I wonder if this will become more normal, or i wonder if it will become politicized.
It’s vehicle fitness inspection in Guyana, your vehicle has to pass this test every year
I can tell you from working in a Tire Shop for 9 years. Rotations Do increase the life of the tires by even wear. Its a Huge thing that need to be done every 6 to 10 thousand miles. I won't go into the details and at my shop we offer that for free to the customers who have bought their tires from up. I love this channel and there are sketchy mechanics I suggest getting professional you trust in the business to help you with your decision making.
Former cat engine mechanic here, not much of an auto mechanic but one of the biggest scams I believe is the coolant flush. If I’m wrong I’ll be more than happy to hear the opposition.
How about the Power Steering fluid flush 😅😅😅
Gomer said I needed the air changed in my tires.
Blinker fluid?
Also don't leave your car battery on the concrete floor as the concrete drains the power from it over time.. Little tip.. Place the battery on a piece of wood..!!
I've been my own mechanic since age 15 68 now as well as an certified aircraft mechanic,still change my own oil-synthetic since 2nd oil change-average mileage per change 7 to 9 K, I screamed BS at all these fixes!
thank you internet man
My dad worked for Boeing here in Australia - did 45 years so loved fixing cars
SOUNDS LIKE A BRAG
Specifically why, I see nothing wrong with what is said.
@@tommak6516 Proving you have no clue.
"You are only confined by the walls you Build Yourself" remember that
Asked me what fuel I used!
Ghost Gamerb
Sure, I will tell the boys in jail, this.
@@thailandtreats4816 yeah thanks
@@thailandtreats4816 I can see that how those walls were built by the actions taken that got them in jail to begin with.
When a mechanic wants to replace a part, ask to get the old part back. If he's afraid that you can tell the part's okay, he may say the part doesn't need replacing after all, and at least he won't be able to use the part to fix someone else's car while charging for a new part.
I always say prove it as I use to be a mechanic in the Army want to see someone,s Adams apple go up and down it leaves them speechless at times lol
Absolutely true😂😂👌
Another thing some dishonest mechanics do, is to keep a box of old parts to show the customer their part was replaced
Thanks for this advice
Hahaha!
That's why some garages insist that the replaced parts won't be returned...
this is a great video of what NOT TO DO. if you think your local shop is ripping you off seek a 2nd or even a 3rd opinion. I don't recommend any Mavis owned shop as they are shady AF and have been named in many law suits. (you can google that). I've been a mechanic for 45 years and have done my best to be honest with people. I've actually quit a couple of shops because of bad business practices. my wife and i are small business owners (we own a dog grooming salon) and we rely on word of mouth so we can retain our customers and gain new ones. so honesty is paramount to us. and that carries over to the garage i work for.
New cars are designed to assist mechanics in ripping you off. One broken sensor causes like 6 things to cease functioning but they actually are not broken. A sensor costs around $60 to replace.
@Peter Phillips I suspect some of the plastic comes from recycled garbage. They put it in because it makes cars lighter, improving miles per gallon, but I miss cars with metal bumpers and no computer under the hood. Cars should be able to run without any electricity after they have started.
seems like a good video for people who have no idea what they are doing however there are a few points with this video that I would have to disagree with on certain ages of vehicles. for example, in some instances, you do need additives. if you don't at zinc to your oil after you replace the cam the engine will tear itself apart. I learned that the hard way.
7,500 between oil changes is acceptable, but if you want your car to last a LONG time, 5000 miles (on a modern car) and 3000 miles (on an older car) is the recommended oil change interval.
agreed. guys if you have Toyota Camry don't change you oil at 10000miles doing this will curse of piston rings failed due to the burnt oil jamming the oil rings
It actually hurts my chest when I think about this. I remember as a young and unsuspecting 19 year old kid driving my ‘79 Ford F-150 from South Dakota to California for a vacation. Within 30 miles of my destination my truck stopped working. I got out and immediately realized that the drive shaft became disconnected. The drive shaft has 4 bolts that connect it to the rear differential. Hundreds of miles from home, I was forced to use a local mechanic. I had brought about $1000 with me for my vacation so the mechanic went and got me a new drive shaft and installed it and I remember that I was incredibly surprised when he called me within a couple of hours to tell me it was ready. I was so happy. I went down there and thanked him and he he told me that I owed him over $900! A drive shaft is not even $150 and to install it you just slip one end on, left the other end and bolt it on with 4 bolts. So he wanted between $700 and $800 for labor for 4 bolts. He wiped me out completely. He knew I was on vacation so I was desperate and he used it his advantage to charge me more. Over and over I have seen this throughout my life. I have literally never found a mechanic that won’t lie to you to get more of your money.
I had a brand new 2015 Scion tC that I had made a deal when I bought to allow the dealership to do oil changes on the car up to 80,000 miles. Most of the time there was no problems. But there was a time when the dealership wanted to charge me for a part that I didn’t need them to change. Because they wanted to charge me a lot of money for it. So I turned them down and kept waiting for my car. I believe I waited 5 hours that day and was even there after they closed. When they pull my car around and I get in the first thing my eyes go to is my wiper blade. After some time they go bad and need to be replaced but my wipers were almost new, yet someone had ripped the blade off of my wiper all the way down to where it was just barely hanging on. I knew instantly that my car was getting messed with in that dealership. I went back and told them I know what he is doing out there. My wiper was find when I drove in and it was ripped when I left.vtutuuubyf
Got new tires from Sears, their mechanic said that I needed a new fuel line, that it was dirty and in danger of clogging... Hard to trust a mechanic who doesn't know what a good solvent and cleaner gasoline is
This is why Sears is out of business in our town.
Can't believe that you found a Sears that was still open
I stopped reading at "Sears"
Your problem is expecting competence at Sears. Would you take a Ferrari for service at walmart? These guys are loonies.
@@MilestheMechanic be up 6uet by then
Literally, all of this you can easily learn and do yourself.
Asked my mechanic to change my brake pads and replace gear oil. Mechanic came back and told me that I do not need to replace it yet since everything is good. That is how you test your mechanic my friends.
True....a certain mechanic told my friend to replace a cvt gearbox that couldn't go forward but reverse only,another one recommended a replacement of the cvt wet clutch rings for a tiny fee. The car is fully functional now.
I don't think that's gonna be 100% for you......he could just be lazy, or simply not up to changing gear dope that day.
@@glennyj65 you almost never have to change gear oil. tons of cars go through their useful life without changing it
@@glennyj65 My 1st thought too. He may have other jobs also....
Reminds me of my old (retired) boss. You got a GREAT mechanic there- KEEP him forever!!!
My mechanic is awesome! When he says something has 6 months left he means it. He will fix other things when he has the vehicle apart. He say why charge you for labor 10 times when he can take care of it all at once. He also will take payments if I don't have the whole amount. Been using him for almost 26 years now
One of the best tips would be to never let your gas get below 1/4 tank the Fuel pump in most vehicles is in the tanks now and depend on the Gas to keep them cool.
Not just newer vehicles. In tank pumps have been around for awhile
Also by not draining the gas will lessen the debris getting in from the bottom of the tank.
Moisture or condensation in the tank too.
One thing about the dash lights. If your ABS or brake lights come on, you do need to look into those ASAP (especialy brake lights as this can indicate a problem with the braking system). Usually you can get by ignoring an ABS light for a while. Same for airbag warning lights too, as these can all be safety issues. Not all cars will illuminate the check engine light if another system is having a problem, such as the brakes or ABS or airbag.
One other thing you should be aware of too is that some shops will try to sell you new parts (like exhaust manifolds because the look like they are rusty). Keep in mind that many of these parts are coated with an anti-corrosion material which makes them look rusty on the surface but that's normal). Rust, on the other hand, will bubble up and flake off, so be weary if someone tells you you need new exhaust manifolds or something like that because they look rusty. Obviously if there is pieces flaking off or you notice holes, then there may be an issue worth checking out, but I have heard stories about people paying to have exhaust manifolds replaced because they were told they were rusty when in fact they were perfectly fine. Most things like exhaust manifolds will have the appearance of rust either because of the coating, or will just appear that way after about 1-2 years of use. BAsically don't worry about those things unless you see holes or you hear changes in how your car operates (ie. changes in the exhaust sound or if you notice exhaust coming from around the engine area).
My air bag light come on. It turned out that when I was vacumming under the seat I knocked and loosened the censor. That was a cheap fix!
@Kerry Innes Did you remove the battery when loosening the sensor? Is there a risk that the airbags deploy?
My brakes light came on in like September or August of 2022 found out a piece in the brake system broke off that tell the car it brake fluid level which I found out shortly after the brake lights came on. I took it to a trusted mechanic who check my brake system and the lines the only issues was the sensor the tells me the fluid level broke off and is in the container some where but as I got told beside that my car is still safe to drive. I can get the system replaced to remove the brakes light but is it really worth it in a 20 year old car from Honda? maybe or maybe not. just depends on the owner.
Just happened to me
ABS light can also be a wheel bearing sensor indicator of a wheel bearing going bad.
Watch out, too, when having an oil change that, afterwards, you notice spots of oil on your driveway or garage floor. Some mechanics fail to tighten the oil pan drain plug adequately so that you’ll return to tell the auto shop that you’re vehicle is leaking. Honest mistake? Maybe. Unless, the auto shop mechanic tells you your oil pan gasket needs to be replaced. That’ll cost some extra bucks - especially if the engine needs to be raised in order to get to the oil pan.
I only take my van to one mechanic have been going there for over 50 year saw his uncle and his dad for years now my friend is the owner will never go anywhere else tge place is called Budde Brothers in St. Charles Mo. Great service and very honest.
If any additives are needed, they will be listed in your owner's manual. Always use this manual to determine what weight oil to use and to determine other necessities like tire pressures.
No one gave a single like for this, but hundreds of likes for messages reccomending miracle in a can, and those claing their getting ripped off 99% of the time. Seems they have ripped themselves off of some common sense.
Got all my tyre rims numbered (paint) on the first service itself. It's an easy DIY too. Very easy to keep track of rotations.
@Master Of puppets You are right. I am not from America. You are wrong. Tyres are not spelled incorrectly. It's just that they are spelled differently in most places outside of USA.
Thank you for this honest and informative video. I would add a code reader would come in handy for check engine faults and watch your fluid reservoirs monthly.
Poor information given
A professional engineer would laugh at the info given.
If you recieve a smallish hole in your radiator. Try adding black ground black pepper a tablespoon while engine is running. It sets like cement in the hole and will get out out of trouble for a while!
Then it will also set like cement in other places where you don't want it as well
Me when my check engine light comes on
Check engine light comes on
Me: pulls over and pops the hood
Me: yep, just what I thought, its still there
LOL I like that.
I heard somebody actually did just that.
i hear of people losing their trasmssion while driving. IRL
@Matt The Builder. I worked at a auto parts warehouse, and can tell you from my experience that I wouldn't drive Chevy or GMC if I can help it. One example of why - Had three service companies order a set of brake pads for a Chevy Z71 in one day, at different intervals. The rep took a set to the first place, and the pin holes were set just too far apart to install, the next place used the same set, and they were too close together, while the third truck they fit. It comes from the fact that Chevy's tolerances are not as strict as they really need to be (as with many American-made cars). Frankly, I would sooner drive a Toyota, Mazda, Honda, or Nissan. These brands have much stricter tolerances on their products.
giving a detailed description on how the baby opened and drank the bleach dos not qualify as "watch the baby!" Lessons learned!
What the most likely reason for squealing brake noise is usually the sound of a built-in wear indicator telling you that it's time for new brake pads but it could be a few other reasons that aren't dangerous for you cars safe operation...
An other cause can be simple Heat during breaking ( happen all the time with carbon fiber break)
You tube taught me all I need to know about keeping my car running and stay running and scotty killmer gives good advice on auto mec
'Scotty'...That Dude has Red Bull running through his veins.
Always going 100 mph
blinker fluid is running low, piston springs, and muffler bearings need to be changed.
Don't forget to grab a garbage bag and collect an exhaust sample, tie it up, and to give it to your mechanic. It'll help determine if the engine is taking in after market air.
Are you referring to Chrisfix April Fools joke? Love his videos.
"Looks like you need a new Johnson rod." "Oh yeah, the Johnson rod, you gotta get another one of that."
How about at home you need your houses lightning rod needs charged
Be sure to check the flux capacitor too! Very important!
3:13 no I don't agree . When break pads start to male noise mostly it's time for them to be replaced . Because there is a wearout pen that starts to scratch the surface of the hops to till you your pads wearout and needs to be replaced .
Thats not a fact. When brake pads squeak they need to be wiped, when they grind they need to be replaced, thats a fact
Squeaking can be caused by rust, degradation, and/or the squealer bar.
@@TheOneSymphony, If you're getting a grinding noise from your brakes, it's too late and probably have done some damage to the rotors or drums. Squeaking brakes need to be wiped ? lol, yeah, ok.
@@augustreil Dust will cause a squeak and the is not much you can do. Learn to check your own and if it is the noise maker change them, that last little bit of brake isn't worth the chance of damage.
august is
I own a Schwinn .. Lost my license years ago .. Yet even bicycle repair shops will rip you off too ..
U need a license for riding a bike?Just asking
If you cannot fix a bike. You deserve to be ripped off.
@@mikecarr1484 don't get me wrong .. I can totally tune my own bike .. I had to do it right after I bought it because the store messed up when putting it together .. The bike really wasn't that expensive and very durable ... It's the parts they charge more ...
I stopped biking for that reason, and found out the shoe repair guy is ripping me off too.
I remember when Schwinn bikes were U.S. made. 50 yrs ago, they were a symbol of high quality . Today, they are manufactured over seas.
The dirt and sludge in oil won´t definitely not evaporate! Tip: If you see sticky dirt (like burnt coffee) in the bottom of the filler cap of the engine, you can safely conclude that the oil change intervals have been excessively long.
Even some bike mechanics are unbelievable. Once after my bike service I traveled Around 60 kms & half of my life was gone, when i found that frond wheels axis is almost came out from the wheel hub. A simple mistake he just forgot to tighten the nutbolts of front wheel. can you belive that!!!!
The goal of all businesses is to make money,by any means possible!
Trust issues!
When buy a new bike, always make a check on everything to be thighten right. If you cannot, make the job done by the sellers or a professionnal. Usually when bike are in a show room, or build rapidly to be deliver ascsoon as possible, it's not rare that they didn't check their work twice.
yes!
Something I taught my son - when exiting a parking lot, always use the exit/entrance farthest from the nearest intersection.
Why sir, can you enlighten me
@@andremeda0073 Far less chance of getting blocked in by traffic that might be waiting at the intersection.
@nycowgirl34 You are correct but sometimes common sense needs a little nudge.
Me too oo
@@andremeda0073 thought it would be obvious why lol
I had changed driving belt, tensioner and anti-freeze recently with a mechanic and they charged me $100 price more than the dealer price. Because I had bought anti-freeze from the dealer a few months back, I caught him right-handed. The mechanic claimed it as a mistake and refunded the difference. Now I will think twice before going to that mechanic
Get your check your self code reader the are around $ 60.00 to $ 125.00 and well worth it they plug into a socket below the steering wheel below the dash trim and will give you codes if you plug it in and check the code write it down and Google it , bear in mind some cars have more than 1 codes , bear in mind the motor must be running when you do this check . When I used to take this to say Auto Zone or Advance always needed
Make sure to change your blinker fluid regularly too if not “it could cost you an arm and a leg” in the long run. Refer to your local mechanic for help if needed.
adrianyi jimenez 😂
I’ve had mine changed twice and they added blinker fluid a few other times, it not cheap!
Mine told me I had a loose nut holding the steering wheel. Everything else was fine.@@alleyoop5185
While watching this video, how many times did car guys exclaim “BS”? Me: 6 times.
The whole video. Omfg
Yes - rotating tires is a conspiracy to steal from you. And tightening your gas cap will solve most engine codes.
I turn the video off and stopped watching.
I stopped counting after 20
@@moreygloss9248 🤣😂
#2. Oil is cheap, Engines are not. I change my oil every 3k miles. Cheap insurance to keep the engine clean and happy.
Going by the company recommended miles will do no harm for your car. Company always recommend 5k miles less than what is analysed through tests before the cars are released.
If you use full synthetic oil, you dont have to change for another 12,000km - guaranteed.
@@Laljitsan Guaranteed? Thats only if I enroll before certain miles. Both of my cars are high mileage. $25 every 3k miles is cheap enough. And I drive my cars hard anyway.
very cheap oils are more dangerous no matter how often change them,especially if you like sports driving
I changed My oil diesel or petrol car every 2 year or 20.000 km with Liqui Moly run like a champ no complain
Im a mechanic of 15 years. Some of this is true. Some is not. All mechanics are NOT all trying to rob you and are dishonest. Alot of times its the shop they work at trying to hype the numbers. Tho alot of shops will work with you as best the can to help you out. Just remember that when you pay, your paying the shop, the tech that worked on it, taxes, and disposal fees.
Rotating your tires does help. Your steer tires round more at the edges, this happens from turning. Rear tires are always running in a straight line, their edges shouldn't round as much as front. I change my oil at around 5,000 miles, since I do it myself the cost is nothing compare to premature engine wear. I also use an oil filter that would be found on a pick up truck with the same engine as my '99 camry 4 cylinder. They're a little longer in length, this gives more filtration available. I used to do the same thing on all the chevy cars I owned. They cost the same money too.
With changing your engine oil, it should be done AT LEAST as often as the manufacturer recommends. For example, if your car's handbook says to change the oil every 10,000 miles or 12 months, you pick whichever of these occurs first. This is especially true if you have a car that is still under warranty. If you fail to do this and something goes wrong, then you will have no hope of making a successful warranty claim, and it is a proven fact that the law will protect the manufacturer on that front.
Maybe under warranty, but otherwise use common sense. My Grandmother seemed to lack some and had her oil changed yearly after only driving between 500 and 1000 miles per year. Her mechanics finally set her straight after a few years and looking at he records. LOL
As someone who's been in the automotive repair business for almost 20 years, I can tell you that not rotating your tires will cause premature/uneven wear.
I disagree. I decided to stop having my tires rotated after having it done at 20,000 miles. I monitored them all the way up to 77,000 miles and never saw uneven wear. Of course by that time the tread was worn enough to get new tires, as you would expect. I now have 40,000 miles on the new tires, and there is no sign of uneven wear. The car is a Colorado extended cab pickup truck, so maybe the tires are more heavy duty than tires for a compact car. So the type of car and its tires may make a difference.
@@gmason3688 Not sure what your running for tires, but I mostly see just the opposite. People come with 20k and need at least 2 new tires because they weren't rotated. I witnessed this scenario 1,000's of times over many years.
@@gmason3688 the front tires on pickups have much less casture and camber let alone there is no camber toe or casture on the rear though so those shouldnt wear unevenly. On fwd cars the front end alignment has much more toe, camber, and casture
The only misconception I see here is rotating tires. It is quite important to rotate your tires regularly.
As someone who drive a boat loss of miles pulling a loaded trailer all year long i can tell you rotating tires is a waist of time.
My favorite : "I LEGALLY CAN'T REALLY LET YOU LEAVE WITH THOSE ...Tires , breaks, tie rod ends ETC" Any one whos a little older remembers jalopies ...LOL The tire guy brought out a gauge and said ..."You see how low your tread is ...Its very dangerous ." That was a year ago ...theres still an 1/8 inch of tread on them
ideally to change your oil not due to the mileage, but due to the working hours. In big cities it's most important.
I have found that changing my oil every 5,000km (yes I live in Canada) my fuel milage is better. I can notice at 7,000 km on an oil change that my fuel milage wasn't as good as changing it at the 5,000 km mark. plus its a lot easier to remember to change your oil at 5,000 km. and the amount of money I save on gas due to changing my oil at 5,000 km is cheaper than spending extra money on gas in the long run plus helps prolong the engine life of my car.
Oil burns off and evaporates???
You mean oil that passed the rings burns and leaves carbon deposits that get dragged in to the sump which is the dirt!!!
Awful advice!
@Khidreal in fact currently (certainly in Europe) engines are designed TO use a little oil. the use of thinner oils (5w30 is common and has been increasingly so for over 25 years now) means it passes the rings and into the combustion chamber more easily, but tolerances cant be tightened or excessive drag and wear will be caused, either (or both) of which will increase the emissions levels.
They obviously didn't understand how engines are supposed to work when they made this video.
Even when water evaporates, it leaves the crud behind. That's how gravy is thickened. Evaporation doesn't carry away dirt.
@Khidreal Nonsense, that is not called an oil evaporation process and the oil does not "actually evaporates", rather it BURNS. Plus, it is not normal for any engine to need to top it off within the old 3K change interval until it is worn out, unless it uses a poor design. Now that oil change intervals are stretching from synthetic oil, it becomes more than doubly likely you might top the oil off, but it is still more of an engine flaw than an acceptable thing for a newer vehicle.
This entire video was so hard to watch
Here in Puerto Rico we repair our own cars there are 3 cars per household even my grandma change tires and brakes.
Asi es.... jajaja
Yes top up oil but don’t read the spec’s and put 5 litres of oil on top of your existing oil.
Well you kind of contradict your self with the engine oil. 1 you say "keep topping it up" yet at the end you say "change your oil regularly". So which is it?
I concur... they contradict themselves at the end
It said 7500 to 10,000 miles (5,000+ for me) between changes. But Don't let it get too low on the Oil Levels. SO Add some In between, Total change outs.
First , Oil does NOT evaporate!!!!
Second , combustion of fuel produces harmful contaminants that get in the oil that can cause engine damage if left in too long, also the additives in the oil designed to augment the wear protection the engine oil provides for the engine begin to break down after 3000 miles that’s why you need to change it at 3000 mile intervals!!
Leaving it in longer than that is foolhardy!!!
Third. the gas cap can cause a code ( check engine light) if you take the cap off to refuel with the engine running. That sets an emissions system code because you break the slight vacuum in the tank that’s there to collect gas fumes in the tank so they can be burned in the engine and not released to the atmosphere. sensors in the gas tank will read the lack of vacuum and set an emissions code (CEL). The emissions code will clear after a number of ignition key cycles.
what he meant is This. between oil changes, if the car uses oil then top up.
I was thinking the same thing.👍
One thing I learn in this car maintenance life is to always have a second opinion and watch them repair your car if you have time.
I drive a front wheel drive car. The tyres on the front wheels always wear much, much quicker than those on the rear wheels. The tyres on the front wheels of all cars should be regularly checked for damage or uneven wear. They will quickly show up uneven wear if the tracking is not spot on or tyre pressure is not correct.
When the front tyres show only 4mm of tread I move the front wheels to the rear axle and 2 new tyres to be put on the front (driving and steering)wheels. Always change both wheels on the same axle and ensure that the tyres are of the same manufacturer and of the right specification for your driving style and practice. Google for tyre specifications. Rear tyres are changed when only 1.5 mm of tread is left. Again the new tyres go on the front.
Tyres will last much longer if you avoid rapid acceleration, fast cornering, braking hard and not slowing right down if the road surface is uneven. Never bump up a kerb. Limit your speed for the first 100 miles if you have fitted new tyres.
Couldn't have said it better.....
If your tyres are changed by the tyre shop always check wheel nuts are correctly tightened after about 50klm driving or when you get home. Sometimes they get the juniors to change tyres and they forget to tighten the nuts correctly.
im mechanic, and 1st go to a big company to het ur car fixed they are less likely to scam you bc there is a lot more people involved 2. take ur car related issues seriously ive seen some people come in with a car thats really dangerous to go anywhere in, and PLEASE dont cheap out on ur tyres thats among the most important thing to take seriously
Scotty is an honest mechanic.
True. Even if he does drink a little to much
Hahahahaha 😂🤣😂😂🤣🤣
Yes Scotty
Scotty, the guy who yells in all his videos?
Respect for Scotty...👍
No be isnt you dumby. If you trust scotty you dont know anything about cars
Classic & antique vehicles ran on leaded fuel .... gasoline that originally HAD lead inside the fuel, which aided in the lubrication of the engines! This lubrication was removed when UNleaded fuel was introduced, and LEADED fuel was removed from the market. Now, anyone who owns a classic/antique vehicle (with an original UNREBUILT engine) actually MUST use a Lead Fuel Additive, in order to keep their engines from knocking, and eventually seizing up!! So...... YES!!! Some people DO NEEEEED to use additives... and it’s NOT ‘just a scam’!!
** The rebuilt engine would have to have all of the seals, bearings, gaskets, etc replaced with modern updated versions... which are rated for unleaded fuel.... not the older seals, which were designed/rated solely for leaded fuels.
I think they were more referring to current cars not classics. Its obvious that a car with a different fuel system and requirement would need an additive
Lead's main use was to keep hot exhaust valves from welding to & wearing out the seats, Hard hi temp. Stelite valves & seats fixes that wear problem!
WRONG ! Seals, bearings, gaskets is not necessary to change, but the valves and valve-seats. If not, they will burn. If you start using the fuel with methanol mixed in (Called E-85 in Europe) then you will have to change seals and gaskets, as the methanol "eats" old-time rubber.
wow someone is gonna end up suing the owner of this video lol turbo vehicles must have oil changes due to the fact that same oil in the engine is what lubricates some of the bearings in the turbos and the second fact is you can't put used brake pads on new rotors or they won't seat properly and you could risk not only yourself but those other drivers on the road in an accident!
Most oil leaks happen from the valve cover gasket. If you notice an oil leak or your engine has oil appear on the outside. simple thing to check is where the highest point of the oil is on the outside of the engine block. oil never runs upward so the highest point is the location of the leak. Don't always assume its the "head gasket". the head gasket gets machined to fit where as the valve cover gasket is just a rubber or cork piece that you can replace at home. If your engine is running perfect but there is oil leaking from the top valve cover then you don't have much to worry about other than topping up oil as it leaks out. This can be done at home with just a torque wrench and some cleaning brushes or clothes.
UA-cam has video's for everything and I'm grateful to all those individuals who share their knowledge making it possible to work on my car myself.
My dad always used baking soda and water to clean battery posts with.
John Bockelie the only problem using baking soda to clean corroded battery posts is it's a base and a battery is an acid if the baking soda gets in to the battery it could neutralize the battery acid and battery will no longer work, if you just pour very warm water on posts it will clean with out this risk
Yes ma'am we will check everything, skeet ball bearings, tea bag steering wheel, parking fluid, brake dust actuators, 1st gear rev limiter bounce, reverse top speed indicator, engine temp Redline gauge test, rigorously retest All Above tests. Then check all fluids, pump balls, rod flinger, skeet valve, blinker if applicable to your make and model, tea bag interior components and finalize all checks. Only $49.99. Sound good we'll get right on it ma'am you look very nice today... and thank you for choosing pervert and Sons Garage..
Good one!! hahahahaha
Good one!! Hahahahahaha!
Can you post a link for that wrench that shoots lasers? I've been looking for one of those.
Dr Who sells them! Brand name “SONIC SCREWDRIVER”
Nice information 👌. Most manufacturers recommend change of engine oil at 10000 kilometers or one year whichever is earlier.
What is your advice if the vehicle is run only for 3000 kms during one year period or can change whenever it covers 10000 kms
#6 is wrong. the tires on the drive axle wear out sooner. front wheel drive front tires, rear wheel, rear tires. plus the weight of the engine.
You're right. I rotate my own tires after some time after their mounted.
Peter Phillips e
Yeah, just about every person I know has said to rotate tires, I've even rotated in the spare tire so it doesn't just rot down there and you'll know if it ever needs replaced.
@@dedalliance1 Can't "Rotate" in the spare tires these days. They are a different size.
@@tmilesffl They weren't on my old truck, full size spare tire and matching rim.
Good luck to anyone who lives by what this video teaches.
Agreed! I couldn't watch anymore after the tyres tip.
You must be a dirty mechanic looking to take advantage of poor old ladies.take a hike
Maybe there was one or two things that was overboard but otherwise it was sound advice for new drivers/owners.
Tom Moore So you disagree with what he says about the battery? I must admit, that he didn’t mention a loose alternator belt ( which can cause an alternator to go bad) thus drain your battery. I’ve seen this many of times and people buy a new battery, only to have it drained again, then it’s discovered, that the alternator is bad and they ended up replacing both. The same holds true with loose or corroded cables.
How does a loose belt make an alternator go bad?
Nothing helps battery connections more than a wipe of Vaseline to block the corrosive action when installing the positive & negative terminals onto your battery. Plus wiggle the connections left are right before tightening them down just to dig them in so to speak.
#7 low brake fluid level will usually cause all of the warning lights to come on.
If it is that low, the brake pads are very worn, or there is a leak!!
It is NORMAL for all of the lights to come on during starting the engine. Air bag will flash a few times than turn off.
A quick stop at an auto parts place can give you the code for some lights. But do not have them erase the code. It will be important for a technician to properly diagnose the conditions that were present when the code set.
Eg: ambient temperature, engine temperature, engine load and speed, ignition run cycles. Etc.
It's extremely important to rotate FWD car wheels. I have seen many cars with bald front tires and like new rear tires because the front ones bare most of the weight and do most of the work.
It's all relative to the way you drive/handle the car
If you rotate your tires it means you got to buy 4 tires at once instead of just replacing the front or rear 's