inlay by hand and in line with one of the veneers, Ben, you know we are here to make your life more challenging, but we know how you love a challenge and working with hand tools😁
it would be cool to see you hand inlay the logo in line with the veneer, i think it would be a nice clean look... loving how this guitar is coming together
The inlay should be in between two veneer lines. I think the logo would otherwise be either too close to or too far from the bottom edge of the headstock.
I’d love to see the logo in line with the lower veneer, and yes, by hand Ben. It’s great to watch these sort of builds. I love Kauri wood, and I might even have some ancient Kauri gum kicking around on a dusty shelf somewhere. That guitar will be absolutely gorgeous when it’s finished :)
Loved this video! I was doing this exact process last week inlaying mahogany dots into an ebony fretboard. I wish I had seen your tip about a good center point bit before I started, it would have saved me a decent amount of dust and glue filling and redrilling!
Such beautiful grain! Equalled only by the sapele fretboard of The Complication- still my favourite. If I had followed my teenage dream of becoming a luthier, I would definitely want the fret position ruler and the depth stop saw. Crimson does make some very useful tools! The fret cutting jig would be a luxury item- as you said, it's not difficult to cut the slots by hand.
Definitely want to see the inlay done by hand, most because I want to see how you actually do it by hand! What tools and techniques get used… suspect in line with the veneers would look good, but leave that up to you!
I think you should inlay by hand, of course. But just 2mm above the veneer line so it is underlined. If it was any other colour I would go on the line, but I think it will pull the eye away from the logo and down the lines. I don't know if that makes any sense. Loving this build though, the grain on the fretboard is insane!
I would like to see it done all by hand. And the idea of it appearing from the veneer line sounds intriguing. I know the jazz version has a dot inlay but you could have done the jaguar version with soap bars inlayed.
Small suggestion when you make small fiddly inlays- you can laminate to the back of the wood a piece of carbon fiber, and then cut it. The carbon fiber will give the wood more structural integrity, so you can cut it thinner
15:05 i refuse to believe dogs danglies is a real expression sir 🤣 but as for the headstock i would put the “neck” portion of it dead center between two veneers because I feel the logo will be less visible with just the “body” and “headstock” portion sticking out of the veneer line. That would NOT be the dogs danglies or the pooches pouch or the bulldogs bell-end or whatever other expression you have in this mythical alternate timeline known as the UK 😂
The logo should definitely be between the lamination lines. It gets lost if it aligns with the veneer. And definitely hand tools. No short cuts or easy options on this one. Mwaahaahaahaaa!
Loving the build so far. Inlay the logo inline with the veneer it'll look great. I've always enjoyed watching your craftsmanship, please do it by hand it's more interesting.
Since you always take the road "less traveled" in your project, here's a Challenge; add a wire inlay to border the Crimson logo... brass or silver? Great contrast between the bog oak dots and the light coloured fretboard by the way!
I have watched several of your videos now, and apart from the skill on show, and that applies to the whole team, the ting that stands out is the passion. Utterly awe inspiring. Respect 🤘🤘🤘
Multiple coats of oil over shellac? That fretboard is gonna look deep enough to swim in! I'm in favour of the logo inlay positioned as at 18:38 and the inlay done by hand because watching you do fine work close up is incredibly soothing for the spirit
I've often wondered who was it that decided that the dot inlay had to be on odd fret numbers (aside from 12 or 24). I know those are major notes, but it could have easily worked on even numbers. 🤔
I think you mean "You can cut *them* by hand..." 🙂 Greetings from the Land of Swampy Kauri 🙂 PS Wish us luck with this latest Severe Cyclone (they don't want us to know it's really a hurricane :-/ )...
'There is no replacing a (...) quality drill bit' I disagree. Replacing is essential when someone mixes your nice brand new brad point bits into their box of 100 20 year old homebase or whatever bits. And then somehow manages to rust one of them in a week.
So considering that the woods used are thousands of years old, will we be seeing some 2,000+ year old cupronickel/bronze used for the frets? Bit too optimistic?
Did you give up on the Otho Pencil I sent you! I've actually started using my GraphGear 1000 more. They are great and I agree with you about the clip! Oh yeah, I was wrong about the "Redwood" I sent, It's actually Western Red Cedar! I love this build so far man. Very cool. Peace & Love
Nice, I missed a lot of your vids UA-cam stopped notifying of a lot of channels I an subscribed to after I cleared my history. I have to catch up. I need to do this on a fretless guitar I bought last week. I thought it would be cool because I own a fretless bass and have had several in the past but a fretless guitar is nothing like trying to play a fretless bass. There is a couple things I like about it but a fretted neck IMO is much better. I will need tools I haven't built a guitar in years and got rid of most of my tools. I do have some stainless steel jumbo fret wire for a refret job I did a year or so ago.
Looks amazing! surprised you didn't align the grain of the dots with the grain of the fretboard though. Would love to see the inlay done by hand, but I don't think you should follow the veneer as I feel it might disappear a bit. perhaps parallel with the veneer, but in between.
I feel that the neck of the CCG logo inline with a veneer battles of the same directional line and takes away from the logo itself. I think that if you were to place it in between the veneer lines that you would compliment the implied line and flow that the piece has. It would also echo the style / placement of the truss rod inlay, as that too would be between the lines in the center of the head stock. Really wonderful work, I enjoy that your videos and that you are able to share with us all.
I really love your sprung center punch. I have one that you push down on to mark with, but it requires so much force that I only really use it for woods like rosewood and purpleheart and on metal. Might I inquire where I might find one? Do you have them on your tool site? I’m just not really sure what to call them.
The FAMAGs are really good, but i have ENT and they do great. Although, not cheap... Just important to use the good drill bits only for the jobs where quality matters. I have a numerous old and cheap bits für drilling in junk wood, plates and so on...
My fret markers are different. i use my router, with a triangle-pointed bit, to make small holes on 3/5/7/etc finger positions. Then, I take my trusty bag of 1/2 inch flat-head screws, then with just a few twists, fret markers! (thats why I have to router first, for the underside of the screw head). Some people say my work is slap-dash and bodged. Some people are right.
Cheers from Texas! where to put the logo? Ask the owner 😉 If they are ok with voting? i say, use the veneer, as the centerline, centerline, centerline, 😊 All the best. Michael Francis.
I tried scalpel marking fret slots as you suggested Ben. It does not work for me. I find the edge of the saw (not the middle) wants to run in the cut, so the saw runs slightly off centre. If you are ADHD like me then you forget which side you ran the saw on the previous fret and it can add up to a problem. Love your work.
In-line with the veneer...... Can you get it spot on and completely parallel with the next veneer line? That is the question! And just for fun, wrap the logo perimeter in copper sheet before inlaying.
The inlay head find the line 30-degree tilt up from that line. The reason i am making guitar / voilà de gamba \ cello hybrid and hexagons as structs etc and as they are equilateral triangles (6 of) half of 60 is 30 thought it be cool and yeah my head is on the how to break your own mind (Thanks Ben). And by hand as i done front and backplate twice front i carved a lovely bowl shape crack all the way through so see on fixes or start again, so this is your fault as you said make saw dust i never done this before and from scrap wood and pallet because it was said it couldn't be done well see about that. Also, this is for 3rd place in a flower show where 3rd was part pallet nailed and sanded, called a shoe rack. i not done videos as i hate my face sound body and that have done pictures of this thing . so there is my input lol
Here’s how I use the miter box to slot fretboards after they have been attached to a neck. The miter box has four vertical panels. Each one is bolted to the base. With Stratocaster headstocks, it’s the treble side of the neck that gives you problems. So what I have done is to remove that one panel that gets in the way, and reattach it using long bolts and long spacers. It looks odd, but it is actually quite easy to keep the sawblade perpendicular to the neck. In fact, I don’t have to give it a second thought; the blade remains perfectly straight.
My vote on the Crimson Guitar logo inlay: Drill the tuning peg holes first, then decide where to place the logo. Another observation (not a criticism): Would you normally line up the grain on the bog oak dot inlays all in one direction? It appears you placed them randomly. Another suggestion would be since the fretboard grain is wavy, perhaps it would be interesting to line up the bog oak dots grain with the waves. Too late now, of course, just interested in your take on that. Cheers from Morgan Hill, CA!
I knew you were going to use wood glue for the dots. Perfect. Use your rotary tool for the logo. Sweeping curve needs it. The plectrum was impressive. Bring back the hand tool build. Bring out your designs with some gray stain. Maybe too late?
1: “ relatively” precise - that’s why I need a fret slot jig! 2: why did you cut the nut slot on the radius? 3: that, sure as hell beats cutting plugs! 4: Dremel please.
Am I the only one thinking the inlay in the headstock would look better NOT in line with the veneer? I would probably set the "neck" of the inlay right in the middle between two lines of veneer.
Since I have a multi tool with the right attachment for inlaying that I’ve never used, please do that. I’m sure there’s many many videos of rotary tool inlay work, but the Ben Crowe version will redefine the genre. Maybe I’m overstating things. Maybe not.
My teacher learned me too rotate the pencil while drawing the line with a the ruler -> for consistent line width. Also marking should be done lightly to avoid missing the (middle of the )mark . Try it :)
I used calipers, a 23 thou feeler gauge, and some arithmetic to do my first 4 guitars, with a vertical block clamped down to the board as a guide. Slow but by god it's accurate.
I watched this video the day AFTER cutting my first fret slots by hand (and without guitar-specific tools). Needless to say I'm very relieved to see that I did most things right :D
I do thing the logo design would look best if it were lined up with one of the veneers in the head stock. Don't really care if you do it all with hand tools or power tools. Just giving my 2 cents worth on where it should be in my opinion. Best of luck and stay safe and healthy. Glad to see your head tattoo seems to be over the allergic reaction.
Definitely in line with one of the join lines and by hand - I’d like to see how you do this. And near the bottom of the headstock away from the machine head holes. This one is looking great. Would it be a sin to install stainless steel frets? They would last forever. And it would tie in with the ancient wood! Stainless is all I install these days. Worth the effort even though hard on tool 👍
I think crossing the lines something 90's styling with the inlay would be cool with the color tones of that beautiful old wood and that fe*der style head stalk.
Had already heard an big archtop made by a dutch luthier and a Tely by an US luthier out of this 40k years old NZ kauri, can't remember how to contact the supplier, I'd be interested to get what it takes to make a few instruments in the future as I found the sound pretty interesting.
Use the cnc router to cut out for the logo inlay. Less risk at this point. Lovely work Ben 👏. Just a note to mention, when you slapped the neck near the beginning of the video, I thought I heard the sound of the truss rod rattling. Might have been my imagination but I have had truss rod rattle issues of my own in the past and it haunts me.
inlay by hand and in line with one of the veneers, Ben, you know we are here to make your life more challenging, but we know how you love a challenge and working with hand tools😁
it would be cool to see you hand inlay the logo in line with the veneer, i think it would be a nice clean look... loving how this guitar is coming together
"That's what the wood wanted"
Best thing I've heard on this channel
The inlay should be in between two veneer lines. I think the logo would otherwise be either too close to or too far from the bottom edge of the headstock.
Inlays by hands are always entertaining and good for knowledge :)
"A good sharp blade solves many problems." As an amateur swordsman, I couldn't agree more. :)
I’d love to see the logo in line with the lower veneer, and yes, by hand Ben. It’s great to watch these sort of builds. I love Kauri wood, and I might even have some ancient Kauri gum kicking around on a dusty shelf somewhere. That guitar will be absolutely gorgeous when it’s finished :)
Loved this video! I was doing this exact process last week inlaying mahogany dots into an ebony fretboard. I wish I had seen your tip about a good center point bit before I started, it would have saved me a decent amount of dust and glue filling and redrilling!
Such beautiful grain! Equalled only by the sapele fretboard of The Complication- still my favourite.
If I had followed my teenage dream of becoming a luthier, I would definitely want the fret position ruler and the depth stop saw. Crimson does make some very useful tools! The fret cutting jig would be a luxury item- as you said, it's not difficult to cut the slots by hand.
Definitely want to see the inlay done by hand, most because I want to see how you actually do it by hand! What tools and techniques get used… suspect in line with the veneers would look good, but leave that up to you!
Ben. One more sweet Video. Crimson logo should be on a angle 📐 across the Head stock parallel as you Play the Guitar 🎸
I think you should inlay by hand, of course. But just 2mm above the veneer line so it is underlined. If it was any other colour I would go on the line, but I think it will pull the eye away from the logo and down the lines. I don't know if that makes any sense. Loving this build though, the grain on the fretboard is insane!
Logo on the line for sure!
I would like to see it done all by hand. And the idea of it appearing from the veneer line sounds intriguing. I know the jazz version has a dot inlay but you could have done the jaguar version with soap bars inlayed.
in line with one of the veneer lines would look very cool
I see a new Crimson Guitars video, I hit like and then I watch.
You're going to do it by hand anyway, but using _just_ the Leatherman would be nice for a change.
Also, in line. Aye, going to make some sawdust now!
Small suggestion when you make small fiddly inlays- you can laminate to the back of the wood a piece of carbon fiber, and then cut it. The carbon fiber will give the wood more structural integrity, so you can cut it thinner
In line with the veneer and by hand of course.
Set the Crimson Logo between the veneer lines, setting on the line looks like a mistake.
Maybe it's just me, but I get the impression that wood is super light and resonant. Im personally dying to hear the finished instrument
15:05 i refuse to believe dogs danglies is a real expression sir 🤣 but as for the headstock i would put the “neck” portion of it dead center between two veneers because I feel the logo will be less visible with just the “body” and “headstock” portion sticking out of the veneer line. That would NOT be the dogs danglies or the pooches pouch or the bulldogs bell-end or whatever other expression you have in this mythical alternate timeline known as the UK 😂
If that was Zombie by The Cranberries, I would have paused recording until the end of the song...
The logo should definitely be between the lamination lines. It gets lost if it aligns with the veneer. And definitely hand tools. No short cuts or easy options on this one. Mwaahaahaahaaa!
i really like the contrast with the black inlay dots. not only on this particular neck but also in comparison to the usual shiny pearl inlays.
You can cut the by hand if I can??? What ???
I think the logo would look better between the lines. I feel like if it was on the line, the logo would get a bit lost.
Fender seen this series and did their own Bog Kauri Jaguar. Ben made Fender feel threatened!!!!!
Loving the build so far. Inlay the logo inline with the veneer it'll look great. I've always enjoyed watching your craftsmanship, please do it by hand it's more interesting.
Hey Ben. You’re awesome mate!! Inlay by hand, hands down mate. Ya hand work is lovely!!
Since you always take the road "less traveled" in your project, here's a Challenge; add a wire inlay to border the Crimson logo... brass or silver? Great contrast between the bog oak dots and the light coloured fretboard by the way!
I have watched several of your videos now, and apart from the skill on show, and that applies to the whole team, the ting that stands out is the passion. Utterly awe inspiring. Respect 🤘🤘🤘
I like the idea of doing on the line so it looks organic. Power or hand tools doesn’t really matter, either way we’d learn something.
New from Crimson Guitars for 2023: perpendicular frets! 😂
Since you are using 42,00 wood and ancient Bog Oak, you ought to make the nut out of Mammoth Ivory.
Multiple coats of oil over shellac? That fretboard is gonna look deep enough to swim in!
I'm in favour of the logo inlay positioned as at 18:38 and the inlay done by hand because watching you do fine work close up is incredibly soothing for the spirit
I've often wondered who was it that decided that the dot inlay had to be on odd fret numbers (aside from 12 or 24). I know those are major notes, but it could have easily worked on even numbers. 🤔
inlay by hand and in between the lines!
I think you mean "You can cut *them* by hand..." 🙂
Greetings from the Land of Swampy Kauri 🙂
PS Wish us luck with this latest Severe Cyclone (they don't want us to know it's really a hurricane :-/ )...
This would have been a great opportunity to CNC something awesome for dots... little kiwis or something unique.
I’d go between the lines with the logo, I think you’d lose the neck outline in the pin stripe otherwise.
'There is no replacing a (...) quality drill bit'
I disagree.
Replacing is essential when someone mixes your nice brand new brad point bits into their box of 100 20 year old homebase or whatever bits. And then somehow manages to rust one of them in a week.
So considering that the woods used are thousands of years old, will we be seeing some 2,000+ year old cupronickel/bronze used for the frets? Bit too optimistic?
Did you give up on the Otho Pencil I sent you! I've actually started using my GraphGear 1000 more. They are great and I agree with you about the clip! Oh yeah, I was wrong about the "Redwood" I sent, It's actually Western Red Cedar! I love this build so far man. Very cool. Peace & Love
Nice, I missed a lot of your vids UA-cam stopped notifying of a lot of channels I an subscribed to after I cleared my history. I have to catch up. I need to do this on a fretless guitar I bought last week. I thought it would be cool because I own a fretless bass and have had several in the past but a fretless guitar is nothing like trying to play a fretless bass. There is a couple things I like about it but a fretted neck IMO is much better. I will need tools I haven't built a guitar in years and got rid of most of my tools. I do have some stainless steel jumbo fret wire for a refret job I did a year or so ago.
Looks amazing! surprised you didn't align the grain of the dots with the grain of the fretboard though. Would love to see the inlay done by hand, but I don't think you should follow the veneer as I feel it might disappear a bit. perhaps parallel with the veneer, but in between.
fake account much?
Who commented on your initial comment here?
Was it Chrimson Guitars? ( Telegram only )
is "the dog's danglies" British for "the bee's knees"?
Inlay by hand definitely
I feel that the neck of the CCG logo inline with a veneer battles of the same directional line and takes away from the logo itself. I think that if you were to place it in between the veneer lines that you would compliment the implied line and flow that the piece has. It would also echo the style / placement of the truss rod inlay, as that too would be between the lines in the center of the head stock.
Really wonderful work, I enjoy that your videos and that you are able to share with us all.
Could you not have ran the Grain on the Position Markers in the Same Direction to spare my OCD Ben? 😂👌
How about breaking the veneer lines? This guitar is SO promising!🤩
Title: "You can cut the by Hand if I can! Fret Slotting"
Me: What???
The wood looks beautiful but very difficult to work with.
I'll put the logo right between the outlines of the head, aligned to the center line. And good night (from here).
Further to comment 2 mins ago it might look even better if the logo was set askew say a few degrees anticlockwise.
Will this guitar ever be built to end?
yes. DC
It's killing my OCD that you didn't line up the grain in the dots.
between the lines, by hand :)
Put the headstock logo wherever the string tree won't be.
Always harder to read between the lines, so I vote you follow a line.
I know your old fret slotting saw didn't have a depth stop...because it's in a cabinet in MY shop!! MUHAHAHA! 😁
I really love your sprung center punch. I have one that you push down on to mark with, but it requires so much force that I only really use it for woods like rosewood and purpleheart and on metal. Might I inquire where I might find one? Do you have them on your tool site? I’m just not really sure what to call them.
Hi Kyle, if you contact the Vintage Tool Shop - shop@vintagetoolshop.com They might have one in stock?
Can't you use the CNC to cut the logo into the head stock???
should inlay your head tattoo on the back of the headstock
The FAMAGs are really good, but i have ENT and they do great. Although, not cheap...
Just important to use the good drill bits only for the jobs where quality matters. I have a numerous old and cheap bits für drilling in junk wood, plates and so on...
My fret markers are different. i use my router, with a triangle-pointed bit, to make small holes on 3/5/7/etc finger positions. Then, I take my trusty bag of 1/2 inch flat-head screws, then with just a few twists, fret markers! (thats why I have to router first, for the underside of the screw head).
Some people say my work is slap-dash and bodged. Some people are right.
Cheers from Texas!
where to put the logo?
Ask the owner 😉
If they are ok with voting?
i say, use the veneer, as the centerline, centerline, centerline, 😊
All the best.
Michael Francis.
I tried scalpel marking fret slots as you suggested Ben. It does not work for me. I find the edge of the saw (not the middle) wants to run in the cut, so the saw runs slightly off centre. If you are ADHD like me then you forget which side you ran the saw on the previous fret and it can add up to a problem. Love your work.
In-line with the veneer...... Can you get it spot on and completely parallel with the next veneer line? That is the question! And just for fun, wrap the logo perimeter in copper sheet before inlaying.
Am disappointed that you didn't line up the grain on the fret markers ! Grain plug rule 101 😁🤦 but still looks good
The inlay head find the line 30-degree tilt up from that line. The reason i am making guitar / voilà de gamba \ cello hybrid and hexagons as structs etc and as they are equilateral triangles (6 of) half of 60 is 30 thought it be cool and yeah my head is on the how to break your own mind (Thanks Ben). And by hand as i done front and backplate twice front i carved a lovely bowl shape crack all the way through so see on fixes or start again, so this is your fault as you said make saw dust i never done this before and from scrap wood and pallet because it was said it couldn't be done well see about that. Also, this is for 3rd place in a flower show where 3rd was part pallet nailed and sanded, called a shoe rack. i not done videos as i hate my face sound body and that have done pictures of this thing . so there is my input lol
Here’s how I use the miter box to slot fretboards after they have been attached to a neck. The miter box has four vertical panels. Each one is bolted to the base. With Stratocaster headstocks, it’s the treble side of the neck that gives you problems. So what I have done is to remove that one panel that gets in the way, and reattach it using long bolts and long spacers. It looks odd, but it is actually quite easy to keep the sawblade perpendicular to the neck. In fact, I don’t have to give it a second thought; the blade remains perfectly straight.
My vote on the Crimson Guitar logo inlay: Drill the tuning peg holes first, then decide where to place the logo. Another observation (not a criticism): Would you normally line up the grain on the bog oak dot inlays all in one direction? It appears you placed them randomly. Another suggestion would be since the fretboard grain is wavy, perhaps it would be interesting to line up the bog oak dots grain with the waves. Too late now, of course, just interested in your take on that. Cheers from Morgan Hill, CA!
19:58 'it's always better to think ahead, and solve the problems before they actually happen' . That's not as easy as it sounds 🙂
I knew you were going to use wood glue for the dots. Perfect. Use your rotary tool for the logo. Sweeping curve needs it. The plectrum was impressive. Bring back the hand tool build. Bring out your designs with some gray stain. Maybe too late?
1: “ relatively” precise - that’s why I need a fret slot jig!
2: why did you cut the nut slot on the radius?
3: that, sure as hell beats cutting plugs!
4: Dremel please.
Am I the only one thinking the inlay in the headstock would look better NOT in line with the veneer? I would probably set the "neck" of the inlay right in the middle between two lines of veneer.
Do a baritone scale ruler!
Since I have a multi tool with the right attachment for inlaying that I’ve never used, please do that. I’m sure there’s many many videos of rotary tool inlay work, but the Ben Crowe version will redefine the genre. Maybe I’m overstating things. Maybe not.
My teacher learned me too rotate the pencil while drawing the line with a the ruler -> for consistent line width.
Also marking should be done lightly to avoid missing the (middle of the )mark . Try it :)
I used calipers, a 23 thou feeler gauge, and some arithmetic to do my first 4 guitars, with a vertical block clamped down to the board as a guide. Slow but by god it's accurate.
"and then we are done... until the next one of a million tasks"🤣🤣🤣🤣
I watched this video the day AFTER cutting my first fret slots by hand (and without guitar-specific tools). Needless to say I'm very relieved to see that I did most things right :D
Inlay in between the lines, and power tools. By hand is just longer footage but kinda bland watching IMO
I do thing the logo design would look best if it were lined up with one of the veneers in the head stock. Don't really care if you do it all with hand tools or power tools. Just giving my 2 cents worth on where it should be in my opinion. Best of luck and stay safe and healthy. Glad to see your head tattoo seems to be over the allergic reaction.
Definitely in line with one of the join lines and by hand - I’d like to see how you do this. And near the bottom of the headstock away from the machine head holes. This one is looking great. Would it be a sin to install stainless steel frets? They would last forever. And it would tie in with the ancient wood! Stainless is all I install these days. Worth the effort even though hard on tool 👍
From one keen watch collector to another and completely off topic but can you do a video showing your watch collection? Cheers, Tim.
I'm nor sure about the Headstock Ben, I think it could use a Veneer! Or a Partial Veneer, It looks a bit like Ruled Paper to me!
Your grammar is incorrect in the title
Logo between the lines. It will make the headstock of the logo look clean.
An industrial designers opinion in this case ;-)
Good afternoon Crimson guitars
The vertical line of the logo will be weakened considerably if it coincides with the background line.
Oh I'm like #420!!
Inlay centered between veneer-lines :)
The logo SHOULD NOT be in line. It would be visually confusing.
I think crossing the lines something 90's styling with the inlay would be cool with the color tones of that beautiful old wood and that fe*der style head stalk.
Had already heard an big archtop made by a dutch luthier and a Tely by an US luthier out of this 40k years old NZ kauri, can't remember how to contact the supplier, I'd be interested to get what it takes to make a few instruments in the future as I found the sound pretty interesting.
Use the cnc router to cut out for the logo inlay. Less risk at this point. Lovely work Ben 👏. Just a note to mention, when you slapped the neck near the beginning of the video, I thought I heard the sound of the truss rod rattling. Might have been my imagination but I have had truss rod rattle issues of my own in the past and it haunts me.
Everyone's saying in line with the veneer, I disagree. The logo will be lost and this is such a cool build I'd want everyone to see who made it.
Can't you use the CNC to cut the logo out