Foundation Repair - How to Set Up Floor Jacks Pt 4
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- Опубліковано 29 лип 2024
- This video will show you how to properly set up and plumb a floor jack so you can support failing joists or do some type of repair while holding up tremendous weight. This will also show you proper placement of the floor jacks on beams to help distribute loads.
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This content is incredible. You sir have single handedly saved so many people thousands of dollars. Thank you!
Thank you!
those aren't "floor jacks", those are "jack posts". a LOT of UA-camrs seem to be getting that wrong. the JACK is the thing that LIFTS the house beams up. the jack stand is just a temporary support system. for long-term support, you want to use large timbers, or preferably "lally columns" which are steel columns filled with concrete, and are more expensive, but tend to be more sturdy.
Thank you so much for this series. We recently took ownership of an old wooden building and the building report said it was fine only to find one of the load bearing beams a crumbling wreck. Its got another next to it but not great. Thank you so much. Slowly working thru your series but such a life saver.
Thank you! Good luck too
A wealth of information, thanks for helping to make my project more safe and professional.
Nice explanation! Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
Absolutely!
Thank you. I really appreciate this video. I have a back porch that needs to be lifted on one end. I think this will help.
Thats great, thanks!
I know this is 2 years old but awesome video man... thank you
This is excellent! Not only this save money but also from potential disaster by inadvertently placing the jacks wrong.
Yes, Thanks!
Listen you have a lot of great info on this and will save people some money and solve some people’s problems with that said so many things are wrong first of all a concrete block which 8 inch width 16 inch length 3.5 inch thickness u can not support a carrying beam with that as a footing sorry I use a 18 inch round by six inch concrete pad for surface area way more effective all that block will do over time especially in dirt is compress into dirt creating pressure resulting in broken block so that was wrong also the post you are using is not a permanent fix they are temporary the steel plates will bend around the adjustable screw due to the top plate not being thick enough resulting in a pressure point pushing into your carrying beam also making your claim of that the post is rated for 30000 lbs is totally false I use 3/8 steel plates for my top and bottom and I only claim 15000 lbs so between the post sinking into the ground due to in adequate footing or the fact your trying to use these as permanent posts and they will bend the top plates idk some good info but someone who knows this shit elevate your game a little bit and educate people with the proper info and be more familiar with the products your using
thank you for the clear explanation
Helpful video. Thank you!
Nice! I'm glad you found it helpful
Great Video. Thank you for the detailed explanation.
Thank you!
You probably dont care but if you're bored like me atm you can watch all the new series on Instaflixxer. Have been binge watching with my girlfriend for the last few days :)
@Stetson Case definitely, I have been using instaflixxer for years myself =)
Great job and video thank you sir 👍very helpful
Thanks!
I sure do wish you did this work for other people and would be willing to do it in eastern ky Lol .Awesome series
Haha! that's a little far from PA. And thank you!
Would Arizona be better?? lolol Thank you for taking the time to make this video! Im working smarter now with your wisdom.
Great tips
Thank you! Subscribed! This was very helpful and educational. I have new 12 foot beams going from left to right if I'm facing front of porch I want to install. At end of each beam, there are beams coming out from house (perpendicular) to end of front of porch where railing is. My new 12 foot beam will be sistered to an existing 12 foot beam. So I place this jack or 4 x 4 support posts at the end of each 12 foot section where they screws into the perpendicular beam? Should it sit under the new 12' beam or under the beam that 12 footer is screwing into? (Hope I explained this clearly)
Our basement floor was caving in from all the force. We might need to put in a whole new slab of concrete before doing this. Old houses are so much work.
Will those screws in the plate be enough holding power to keep beam from kicking out? Or do you use something else to prevent kick out of beam?
interesting note about having a jack at the end of the beam. what about the final beam under the wall at the exterior of the house?
Those floor jacks here in Chicago are nearly 100 bucks. Insane
wow, thats crazy
More than that here in Virginia
How would you pick a spot to put the jack under stair landing?
Very good video, keep it up!
Thanks!
Do you know if floor jacks is what professional foundation repair companies would use? I have a house that they had stuck wood beams on concrete as supports in 2 or 3 places.
Just one thing gave me pause on this great series. It was when you mention avoiding cantilever action by putting post at end of beam. I seem to remember in Engineering school, it can be advantageous to cantilever if your situation allows. Usually you can't do this in a house because you want to use outside walls as support for joists, but in this case for temp support you can and should. The forces at the cantilever support cause the bottom fibers of the beam to change from tensile to compression and opposite for the top fibers. This has a load neutralizing effect. The ultimate max compressive and tensile loads are thus reduced else where along the length of the beam.
Thats a good thought, however I cant say it is or is not a good idea as I'm not an engineer.
Where would the jacks have been placed here in that situation?
@@JoePAcalaughs I think there might be a precise placement that could be calculated, but I don't remember. If I were doing this, I would put the post at 2-3 feet in from the end as a reasonable guess.
Sean,
I really appreciate your content brother and hope this finds you and the family doing well. I’m preparing to do some shoring of our kitchen because Im adding an island and want to ensure the joists will carry loads well. I’ve looked at Akron, BiSupply, and Ellis screws, but since you’ve already done this and you’ve had time to reflect, what brand/source did you use for your basement Jack post/screws? We live in NW Tennessee in a 126 year old poplar home at 4600 sqft, you know they’re big holes in the ground you can dump money into 😂. We also have a cabin in Maggie Valley, so I can totally relate to a lot of what you do. Thanks again brother!
I went with akron because they were the beefiest ones I cound find and had the highest load rating. Thanks!
Dugoutpgpp
😊 😊
What do you suggest if my floor joists are different widths? Most of mine seem to be 2x8 and some are 2x10
Thank you for this. I'm sagging a bit in some areas of my house (1890s). I was curious... I know this is a temporary setup for you but could this also be permanent? I've got so many DIY projects floating around that I'd like to simply use something like this as a stop-gap measure. Thanks for any insights.
They make more permanent type jacks like this so yes
What type of concrete block did you use?
I am bracing just 3 joists so my beam is only 42" long - I'm not actually raising my floor but rather putting the supports there to prevent sagging. I was hoping to get away with just 3 jacks spanning a 9 foot wall, again covering 3 total floor joists. The load on this wall will only be slightly more than 3000lbs (aquariums). Should I worry about cantilever? I could use 4 and it would just cost me one more jack and one more concrete block but I already feel like I'm doing this "just in case". Thanks for your time and informative video.
3 joists over 9 feet? Are you sure that the beams you are planning to support aren’t below the joists?
Will these beams remain in place after the new foundation is in place or will you remove them and just use jacks?
These are just temporary to span across the joist to spread out the load with the floor jacks. the jacks and the beams will come down after we put the new Steel i-beam in with cement columns. That video will be coming out feb 1st
my old home was renovated and they added a kitchen island, that kitchen island is heavy and it has made the flooring sink a little,i have a basement, what would you recommend?
jack up the floor joist under the island and sister on a new joist to help support it. do this to ones adjacent to it as it will help share a little of the load as the flooring spreads some of the weight
could the support beam be installed wide face vertical instead of horizontal ? is the load distributed the same if the beam is wide hi or wide to the sides ?
That basement looks just like mine! Curious how old do you estimate average property with old stone foundations? Was they built like this because it was more affordable? I was told they more solid?
I am using the same exact jacks. Were you afraid those concrete bricks will break?
Is there a huge benefit to digging into the ground and then filling with gravel?
Depends on the soil type. if its soft yes, dig up and put down a solid base
Thanks for the video! What brand jacks do you use? I mostly find max load 18000lbs. Having double that would probably be better.
I think they are Akron. I got them at Lowe's
@@appalachiandiy2415 thanks!!
Careful with Akron… the paint/powder coat isn’t great and they tend to rust after 6 years or so.
Also- many areas don’t consider telescoping post jacks to be code. If you spend a bit more for powerPost everything is galvanized and the capacity is much larger.
Also - most jacks can’t lift with much force, they only support. The correct way to install is to lift with a bottle jack (hydraulic) then install the screw jack to support. If you want significant lifting capacity with the jack Ellis makes lifting shores that have bearings in them.
What did you use for the beam?
How far away is the beam from the basement wall ? (Horizontal)
About a Foot. Try to keep it as close as possible because you are creating a cantilever load
i realy like those old bricks behind u, i pretty sure those okd brick in that basement tell me that the house is from early 1840!
We suspected that it was very early 1900's. Yeah, she's an old one!
Those are stones
@@markfernandes2396 Fieldstone, is what they are commonly referred to as
What to do with pvc or wires on the way of the bee beam?
Ive had to remove some electrical lines and hook them back up/reroute them after the beam was in place. Also had to cut the pvc water line to my outside spigot. once the beam was in place i just put it back together with a coupler
Esta bato nadamas selanpaso able y able y no enseño nada muy malo su video.!!
"I'm gonna get another person to help me." lol
haha! She's always there to help out!
How could you not tell us the size of the beam? Are they three 2*8s?
Yes, they are 3 2x8's. You can follow the the entire series through the playlist. There is also a video in there of me making the support beam that you can view here: ua-cam.com/video/X1QCPDg_txI/v-deo.html
@@appalachiandiy2415 awesome. Thanks
do you leave the jacks there permanently?
no it is a temporary lift. there are post like this that will adjust about a foot and are meant to be permanent. they are at the same isle as these floor jacks at home depot or lowes
Where may I buy that adjustable post?
Lowes
There are a ton of jacks to choose from which ones do I need for a similar situation
I buy the Heavy duty ones from Lowes. They are the Akron brand. they can hold 20,000 lbs each. so they can hold ALOT.
@Dapper Dame I saw your other comment on my notifications but couldn't find it to reply. If your finding it hard to turn to lift you can use a cheater bar/pipe to give you more leverage, however I don't really care for that because your putting a lot of sideways strain on the jack(make sure your plates are screwed fast) the other option is to have a post (4x4)with a bottle jack next to the floor jack. pumping it up and following after with the floor jack I found to be the best way.
@@appalachiandiy2415 thanx a lot without you Id be done for 😂
@@TheJudgeJuryExecutioner Absolutely! glad the vids helped
Where store I get jack ?
I bought mine frome Lowes
Like. I have time for them doing this by myself
This helps me My house sags a little , was built in 1900 I have a moist basement with stone foundation. when I raise the house up a little will gaps be created on the rim joist and. Create air Gaps ? I am in process of taking out old insulation and sealing up pest access and then using foam board sprayed with cans of spray foam. But should I do this after I raise house ?
Any insight is appreciated
Yes, absolutely wait till after. My house sag was extensive and nearly every single wall cracked because it was re-drywalled with the sag not corrected. yes, there will most likely be gaps at the rim board too.
@@appalachiandiy2415 Thank you . My instincts were right it is winter in Massachusetts I will try to address both asap.
Good videos you have !
@@paulhegarty4612 Thanks! and good luck! please let me know how you made out, would love to hear how it went when your done
How many PSI will the brick hold?
If your asking about CMU-Concrete Masonry Units, that varies. Home Depot has block rated at 1900 psi www.homedepot.com/p/8-in-x-12-in-x-16-in-Concrete-Block-903881/202535625
If your asking about the solid blocks under the floor jacks they are ASTM 90 spec. again 1900 psi for those as well
The block needs to be on solid ground that isn't going to have any give, in order to prevent the block from breaking. He was correct in his application because he hadn't dug the dirt away and added any back.
Where did you buy those at that price
Pre covid prices
im gonna be doing this to my house it was built in 1880 so it's old rough cut lumber. im re doing the main beam's that hold the house up.
Nice! Are you replacing with steel or laminate beam?
@@appalachiandiy2415 using 2x10 putting 5 of them together for the main beam.
@@appalachiandiy2415 using 2x10 putting 5 of them together for the main beam.
@@jwngokart6788 nice. Is it possible to use 2x12's? giving you more strength?
@@appalachiandiy2415 there isn't much room to do that that's why we are going that way. I wanted to go with 2x12 but can't.
What jacks did you use for this project?
Uh, you installed your jack UPSIDE DOWN°°° LARGE END UP, DUDE. WOW.
Where can I get that jack post, what brand is it? Are these permanent ones?
These are temporary, the permanent ones dont have the pins to adjust up and down they only have the screw to adjust the height. I think they were Akron brand. I got them from Lowes and they are the heavy duty ones
@@appalachiandiy2415 another company called Tel-o-post sells the permanent ones, but they are too tall for my application. Thanks for the info, I sent an email to Akron to ask them. I want it to hold up LVLs for secondary support of my beams. Actually just now I found shorter permanent ones. I might also buy some temporary ones in the future.
Appalachian DIY but the temporary ones could stay there for a long time? Why would I remove them if the subfloor is sagging? Sorry for the ignorance
@@misericors3169 I think if they are just for extra support, like adding additional support for a washing machine they can stay.
@@misericors3169 No worries. They are not designed to be a permanent fixture. They would not pass code for being a permanent fixture. with that being said I've had mine in for months but will eventually put a permanent one in at the middle of the steel I-beam
Why am I getting conflicting opinions on whether or not I can tapcon the baseplate into the basement slab?? Similarly, why do some structural engineers state that the adjustable piece should be on the bottom and others say it should be at the top?
I dont know why you should not tapcon the base plate. that's why there are holes there, to secure it in place. I don't see how it would make a difference If the screw is at the top or bottom. I have it at the top because its easier for me to turn instead of hunched over at floor level
Only bad thing is this is not a permanent post
This is just a temporary floor jack and to help with a lift in part 5 of the foundation repair series. the final beam will have a permanent post in the center
I wonder how many times you have had to say this to the viwers,,lol
@@markfernandes2396 Maybe ill make a video of the difference :)
Why did you not just dig 24 inch by 24 inch hole a ne pour cement..for a.better stable support
That would work but its a once and done method, with block I can move it to more locations when I need to move around the jacks
Appalachian DIY the cement block will not break with such support weight? I was thinking to make a cement footer of 4 ft down. If the cement block works fine against sand then it should be fine right?
@@misericors3169 I would think the cement block will work just fine. make sure the base is compacted so the block has a stable base with no low spots or voids that would potentially make it break easier
Appalachian DIY it’s a crawl space with sand and debris.
@@misericors3169 Sand is not very stable. i would try to pour your own brick. use a bag or two of quickrete high strength, put some rebar in it for added strength and make it 2-3x bigger than the blocks I used. it will still be somewhat portable(heavy) but you will not have to dig a hole and pour a pier for your jacks
Cinder block with the holes in them are not made to be used in a laying down fashion you need solid pavement type blocks to jack up on extrema danger!
2 years later the $25 beam is now $75. I bet the jacks have gone up too. Inflation sucks.
You bet!
It's easier to screw your header up then use you jacks
Tock tock bla bla bla. Tock alot.!!!!
haha, well that's the best way to spread information. Especially an instructional video, thanks for the reply
People who do not have any knowledge for work like this, probably appreciate the bla bla bla.
It's pretty ignorant to post a comment like this, as I have yet to discover another video this informative. If you dont like it, dont watch it and hire someone else to do your work.
@@dark7hery1093 thank you! Im glad you found it informative
Wow Rafael... Thank you Appalachian DIY! My sister and I are repairing a house in our hometown in Pennsylvania and I appreciate this video IMMENSELY!