The things you just did with that lathe, I have never seen anyone else do. This is definitely up there with my personal UA-cam heros, ToT and AvE. Thank You.
I got to help (in a minor capacity) restore a Dutch house organ from ~1770 and they used handmade screws. It looked like they made a jig to hold a file at an angle above the rod of metal, then they slowly rotated and advanced the rod in another jig with a tab to catch/align the new threads. The end result was maybe 1.5" long with 5 TPI buttress threads.
Machine Thinking, I'm getting deeply involved into tool restoration, and for now, I can only dream about learning basic machining: lathe, mill, & saw. And what's so interesting about your video is that my favorite two tools are my dial calipers and vernier micrometer. The whole concept of how they work is so cool. It never occurred to me to have an ambition to recreate one, as you are. Super great video. I sure wish you were my next door neighbor and could help ease my learning curve!
Beautiful computer generated images of the micrometer's mechanism. Thank you for taking the time and trouble to produce such illustrations. They obviously required a lot of work. (You're a man of many talents.) Your efforts are much appreciated.
Look at 0:42 & 1:34 see how the bit is forced to move towards the left slightly to get into his center hole? Either the bits are slightly bent or his drill chuck and what ever is supporting it (tail stock) is not parallel to the lathe bed. The shorter the bit (center drill) the closer the end of it will be to the center of the work piece and the longer the bit the angle moves the end of the bit away from center. What that means though is that his center bit is not really correct either, It might be close but it is not quite right. When I noticed the drill bit doing it I thought it was a bent bit but when the reamer did it also I thought it is might be the tail stock assembly.
I'm well aware of my tailstock not lining up 100% correctly, which is made worse when something long like a reamer is placed on it. My lathe had the bed reground before I got it and the tailstock was (poorly) shimmed back up and I haven't got it nearly perfect. It compounded by the fact it's a fairly worn tailstock about 30 years older than the rest of the lathe.
I know I'm a year late to the video but not everyone who happen to be very good at what they do are also very good at explaining how the did it, but you are. you would make a great teacher. narration and voce is spot on. you can tell you love what you do. thanks for all the posting.
Your videos are brilliant. I work as a aerospace mechanic, but aspire to be an engineer. I thinking about taking some machinist course at the local votech before going any further.
Enjoyed the video! I recently learned that you do not use a center drill to start a drill but use a spotting drill. You will notice your drill does not follow your center drilling well resulting in a off center hole.
I got to go out and get myself a metal turning lathe. The things you can do with it or just incredible and it's therapeutic to watch them work. As it is to watch your video. Thanks for this
With that screw at the last end of your presentation, you'll want to make a hollowground screwdriver that matches so, that you don't torque out as you tighten the screw.
I'm a machinist for a living. I make flight parts and just regular turbine parts for GE power units. Lot of dovetails in blade rings and cutting chamfers on blade segments to go into the dovetails. Anyway that measuring tool that you were using to measure your brass bushing is a vernier. A vernier scale to be exact. It is not a micrometer. It might measure out to thousands, but at micrometer has a dial and indications for .0001 as well as half .0001. I like your channel though it's definitely informative though for people new to this machining thing.
Man, I am loving your videos. Tailstock die and tap power threading tip. Learned it from an old timer just a few months ago Makes it easier. Leave the tailstock lose and free moving, when it catches the thread it autofeeds perfectly.... Until you catch a shoulder and pull your hair out while pulling peices of metal out of your small die. But it takes less practice
Thorughly enjoyable, but I can't help feeling it's not quite representative, it purports to show how early machinists made this micrometer, but it unabashedly uses an _endless_ array of modern conveniences and machinists tools. It it does not in any way teach about how this device was actually made back in the day, it shows how to build it when you have full access to a modern machine shop and all the knowledge of a trained machiniest.
When cutting that long screw at 6:00, how does it cut along the previous thread to make it deeper? With it spinning that fast I'd figure it would be off during the second pass over and so on.
You are a mad man, and I love you! I have to thank your mom and dad for bringing you to this world just to be curious human being that you are. I use a caliper every day but I never thought of even thinking about who made it??? I make things. I make custom made lighting fixtures. 2' to 20'+ in diameter. Thank you for this... Thanks man. You are amazing.
The high speed steel inserts are a great note.. never heard of them before and they clearly have a place, especially for "home shops." Good job.. as we've come to expect.. very thoughtful (or maybe I should say "pre-thoughtful" as it reflects the planning phase).
Holy shit idk much about any of this stuff but I almost spat my beer out when I saw that black polish. The science makes sense and it looks super cool Definitely subbed
Nice video, but in regards to the tapping/threading die, you might wanna untighten the tailstock (so it'll slide just easy enough) and have it "pulled" towards the spindle. This will get you through most threads, aside the ones that are more of a surface finish (i.e. below M2).
Great ideas. I see your Jacob’s flex collet chuck locking ring has broken teeth like mine. When this happened I thought all was lost. I polished the burrs and continue to use it when needed. They have their place.
Nice work! For a real black polish though, I would suggest diamond paste on a zinc block that has been either milled or filed flat. You can use the same procedure that you did with the emery cloth and paper in the lathe but with a zinc disc. Sacrificial anodes for boats come in handy.
Great video, and I really like your channel. Just a couple of things... your tailstock is miles off the centre line, the reamer you show near the beginning has to move a huge amount sideways to enter the hole. That needs adjusting. At 5:35 you state that for Carbide inserts you need high RPM and deep cuts. These statements are completely false. Yes, you CAN use them at higher RPM and you CAN take deep cuts but you don't HAVE to. I use them all the time in the home workshop and they are much more convenient and longer lasting than HSS tools. I still use HSS for the occasional one where the shape demands it, but for general turning, it's Carbide all the way. Sharp corners should be avoided wherever possible and slight changed to designs easily accommodate a small corner radius. I'd recommend them to anyone.
That tap hobbing was neat, never seen that before. Hope your tailstock it is better aligned than it looked. I have an old micrometer that looks similar to the french Palmer design. It doesn't have a maker's mark and I have always wondered how old it is. I mean I suppose it could just be something that was cheaply made to an old design during the war, but I really don't know.
I've got to make one of those tailstock die holders soon for one of my projects, although I mainly work in plastic and with extra fine threads so I can rotate the chuck by hand and feed gently with the tailstock unlocked.
I found with plastic carbide inserts work really well, just have to use them as brand new for plastic, and then later on you can use them for anything else. Works well with PTFE, which needs that really sharp edge to get any sort of stability in the part. Same for drilling it, brand new cobalt steel bits are perfect, later on you still get good results on steel, though I found that 316 stainless I just budget one drill bit per hole hand held, especially using HSS ones. Work hardening on stainless can be a real PITA, especially if you are doing repairs and cannot detemper the part.
I highly recommend quickly throwing together a wood guard to put over the bedways while changing out the chuck. They are really simple to make - plywood and 2 2x4's to sit around the back and front of the ways. 99% of the time it won't do anything, but that 1% when the chuck accidentally slips, it will save your hands/fingers from a serious injury and the ways from accidental damage.
I appreciate the thought - I actually do have a board I use when I change into my 4 jaw chuck - it's a beast, but the smaller ones I feel comfortable not using it and the Jacobs chuck is especially light.
Even just a canvas cloth ( old pair of jeans material) will work well there, and as a bonus just keep it oiled, with a blend of engine oil and a little wax, and it provides a bed lube and rust protection at the same time.
I put a piece of plywood over the ways when I am changing parts / chuck at work. Most of the time they are too heavy to lift by hand though; That big 4 jaw is HEAVY.
The music indicates, you have a sense of humor. Loved it. Thumbs up and subscribed. Oh by the way, I've made my fair share of scrap accidents. That's how we learn,,,isn't it? Take care.
If you're using a collett, and your size is simply in between two different collets, so long as you start and finish your piece without removing it at all until completely finished: You can simply wrap a piece of paper, or Emory cloth around the work piece to increase the diameter. *obviously it will not be completely concentric, that's why you must do all your machining before removing it.* So it's only applicable to very specific circumstances. (Love that tap, used as your cog idea, I've not seen that before. Very good idea.) *great videos* ☀️😎🇺🇸☀️
Great stuff. You don't mention during your threading operation how you go about it. I have done threads many times and find it challenging and rewarding. Those who haven't done it would probably benefit from a detailed explanation. That said, you do very excellent content and this project is quite interesting. Thanks for doing the work.
Hey, I love your videos, and I am slowly watching them in order. I had a quick question/comment about this one. In this video, you had a point while you were making that one piece with the kind of mushroom profile. You bored the hole in it using several different bits, and I was hoping you would have explained the why, and what the smoke was each time, and the liquid you were adding. I'm sure experienced machinists would know exactly what you were doing, but I'm a layman, and was hoping for more detail there. Cheers, and thanks for making these awesome videos.
Lastly my shop lathe was a POS that my home drill press made it even more accurate. It's a matter of making a tool right to keep it under control then it will work fairly well.
Regarding tap/die use in the tailstock: make a sliding holder with a handle for those small (< M8 threads) threads, that way you don't have any problems following the tool with your tailstock and makes it less tedious to work with.
6:35 - I don't understand how you get the tool to start cutting exactly at the same rotational point it started at last time when you are deepening the thread. What mechanism is there on a lathe that says hey, go! start moving right exactly at now... and how do you get the tool exactly back at the same starting point over and over again... because it seems if either is off by any amount, it's going to fuck up the thread you are trying to make instead of making it deeper. What is even moving it, some worm gear that is engaged and disengaged automatically, and how to tell it to stop?
On a manual lathe like the one in the video, the carriage that's running back and forth cutting the stock is moved by a leadscrew. The leadscrew is driven thru a series of gears directly off the spindle which is spinning the stock. The gears can be changed to alter how far the carriage moves for each revolution of the spindle which translates to the number of threads per inch or the distance between the threads for metric fasteners. Either way, as long as you keep the gearing connected between the spindle and the leadscrew, the carriage will always track the same 'groove'. But leaving the carriage connected to the leadscrew all the time isn't desirable because when you get to the end of the cut, you have to back the cutter out then reverse back to the beginning, readjust the cutter depth a little deeper, then make your next pass. It takes a long time to 'screw' the carriage back to the starting point because the machine has to run slow enough for the operator to stop it when the cutter is in the 'run out' groove at the far end of the threads. Since most lathes don't allow for setting separate forward and reverse speeds and it's often inconvenient to change them, you end up reversing at the same slow speed you're cutting at. It also adds a lot of unnecessary wear on the leadscrew and the half-nut which is the device that locks the carriage to the leadscrew. To get around these problems, you release the half-nut at the end of the pass then manually crank the carriage back to the start position. Since you've broken the gear train to the spindle, the threads will now be out of time with the cutter. To make sure that the timing is correctly re-established there's a device called a 'threading dial' that's typically numbered 1-4 but I've seen some numbered 1-8, with an additional hash mark between each number. The dial is driven off the leadscrew and will turn 1 full revolution for each full revolution of the leadscrew. If you engage the half-nuts to start the carriage moving at the same number each time, the carriage will always follow the same 'groove'. Depending on the # of threads being cut, you may be able to engage the half-nut on any line, an even line, or an odd line. This will only work if the threads you're cutting are in the same system as the threads of the leadscrew. If you're cutting inch threads on a lathe with an inch based leadscrew, the theading dial works fine. If however you're cutting metric threads on an inch based lathe, you generally don't disconnect the half-nut, you back out of the cut and reverse the spindle until the carriage is screwed back to the start. Clear as mud?
@@marcseclecticstuff9497 - I don't think our huge industrial lathe from the 50's has any of that. So like... invisible mud. I'll have to look at it closer.
One thing I have never quite figured out about threads is how do you go about not having any even pitched and accurate threads to having them. These days there are of course options, but stepping back to purely mechanical era of machining, how do you go about cutting an accurate thread, if your lathe doesn't have accurately threaded lead screw to begin with?
When center-drilling at 0:44 and adjusting the hole diameter at 1:35 the drill bit does not appear to be perfectly aligned (it moves slightly sideways when entering the hole). Is that a problem (or rather, why it isn't)?
Way ahead of you there! Have a pile of historical research done, but it will be several months before I have access to my shop again and can do the practical part.
Machine Thinking awesome! I'm looking forward to what you have up your sleeve. It's like PBS did a whole series on foundations of mechanical accuracy. Keep up the good work
I don't know if this right but I cut a chamfer in the material I want to thread a die on, then I force the die onto the work by tightening the tailstock lead screw, once the die is threading on its own I release the tailstock lock so that it can move freely on the ways. This way you don't have to follow the thread. the only thing that is required is to stop the chuck when it is the length of thread you want then reverse it to remove the die from the work.
It's been two years- did you ever complete your rendition of the micrometer? You don't have any videos showing the assembly, or the final accuracy of the device- how did that turn out?
Nice video, but I strongly disagree with your comment @5:37, I use carbide insert tooling pretty much exclusively on my small lathe and the advantages are numerous. Although I can see that the chip breaker geometry is optimized for higher chip loads this is usually not a problem. And thanks to our Chinese friends, carbide is now relatively cheap.
When running a die or tapping a hole with the tail stock, leave it loose. That way, if you screw up your timing a bit, the tail stock will slide so the tool doesn't break.
8:55 ... Can someone please tell me the name of the tool seen here? How does it function? Its purpose? I've never seen this before. I find it very interesting for some strange reason. Anyone... Anyone ?
I have only watched a few videos. But, you have already reached "click 'like' as soon as the video begins" status. I look forward to catching up on every video you have made so far and will be watching all of your future endeavors as well.
you need to re set your tail stock. You will like it better if you do. I noticed that when the reamer found the hole it had to bend over to get in the hole. Correct this by adjusting the tail stock . Unlike a lot of small lathes your tail stock is adjustable.
I might be wrong but i think what youre calling the worm gear is actually the worm wheel. What you call the lead screw is actually the worm gear.... And the lead screw in this case.
Worm wheels are worm gears, as worms are just screws and not a gear. A gear is defined as being a toothed wheel, and a worm gear is a gear that meshes with a worm. While worm wheel is the formally correct term, worm gear is also an informally correct term.
@@xaytana very interesting! Not to be pedantic but wouldn't that also mean that a helical gear is just a short multistart screw and not a gear? At what angle and number of starts does a gear become a screw?
@@DoRC a screw is a fastener that is threaded into a workpiece. If it's used to apply a load and turn something it is a gear. Just because something is helical doesn't mean screw is the right word. The other person is being pedantic but not in the right way.
Unfortunately I couldn't figure out which video is the start of making the micrometer and the others to continue. I'd like to see all from the start that's really interesting.
Could you give me a hint what to do next in school with metal lathe...? I'm pretty novice but I like to use lathe a lot and you can find few things I made in my videos..
@@machinethinking What I do in that case is I just keep my hand on the tailstock and give it a hand pushing/pulling in whatever direction it needs. It's a lot easier in my opinion
Somewhere between This old Tony and Clickspring, I love it!!
Oh man thats what I was saying watching this. I like it new sub
Yea the entire time I thought I was listening to this Young Tony or something
was about to post that exact comment. LOL
That is high praise. I agree.
It's a very Clickspring project; he's more efficient though.
It's a bit of a drag watching him polish every pinion by hand (Although very admirable).
The things you just did with that lathe, I have never seen anyone else do. This is definitely up there with my personal UA-cam heros, ToT and AvE. Thank You.
You're right. Making that brass worm gear was pretty cool. Never seen it done that way.
I got to help (in a minor capacity) restore a Dutch house organ from ~1770 and they used handmade screws.
It looked like they made a jig to hold a file at an angle above the rod of metal, then they slowly rotated and advanced the rod in another jig with a tab to catch/align the new threads.
The end result was maybe 1.5" long with 5 TPI buttress threads.
Machine Thinking, I'm getting deeply involved into tool restoration, and for now, I can only dream about learning basic machining: lathe, mill, & saw. And what's so interesting about your video is that my favorite two tools are my dial calipers and vernier micrometer. The whole concept of how they work is so cool. It never occurred to me to have an ambition to recreate one, as you are. Super great video. I sure wish you were my next door neighbor and could help ease my learning curve!
Using a tap to machine the worm gear is amazing. I have limited experience but have never seen this approach. Amazing.
DUDE. The way you cut that worm gear with the tap was so simple yet genius. I am sure many machinists have spents hours trying to figure out that.
Beautiful computer generated images of the micrometer's mechanism.
Thank you for taking the time and trouble to produce such illustrations. They obviously required a lot of work. (You're a man of many talents.) Your efforts are much appreciated.
Kevin Byrne not to destroy your dream but most cad programs have a render option included
@@Thefreakyfreek -- It wasn't necessary for him to do this, but he did. So I'm grateful.
@@kevinbyrne4538 Exactly!
Old school handle turning Machinist here. I cant believe I didn't find this channel sooner. Great techniques.
Look at 0:42 & 1:34 see how the bit is forced to move towards the left slightly to get into his center hole? Either the bits are slightly bent or his drill chuck and what ever is supporting it (tail stock) is not parallel to the lathe bed. The shorter the bit (center drill) the closer the end of it will be to the center of the work piece and the longer the bit the angle moves the end of the bit away from center. What that means though is that his center bit is not really correct either, It might be close but it is not quite right. When I noticed the drill bit doing it I thought it was a bent bit but when the reamer did it also I thought it is might be the tail stock assembly.
I'm well aware of my tailstock not lining up 100% correctly, which is made worse when something long like a reamer is placed on it. My lathe had the bed reground before I got it and the tailstock was (poorly) shimmed back up and I haven't got it nearly perfect. It compounded by the fact it's a fairly worn tailstock about 30 years older than the rest of the lathe.
I was told that the long shank of a reamer is designed that way partly so it can flex/bend to follow the drilled hole.
workpiece not dialled into 4 jaw chuck i recon & tungsten carbide on brass?!? no complaints though - i loved this video.
hmmmm oh wait thats a 3 jaw.
And not tungsten carbide
This is awesome, glad to see more machinist videos on UA-cam, they're so satisfying to watch!
I know I'm a year late to the video but not everyone who happen to be very good at what they do are also very good at explaining how the did it, but you are. you would make a great teacher. narration and voce is spot on. you can tell you love what you do. thanks for all the posting.
"not quite perfect" when it looks that beautiful, you have incredible craftsmanship
Apart from the machining, a lot of effort went into the production of this video. An absolute pleasure to watch! Thank you!
Your videos are brilliant. I work as a aerospace mechanic, but aspire to be an engineer. I thinking about taking some machinist course at the local votech before going any further.
Enjoyed the video! I recently learned that you do not use a center drill to start a drill but use a spotting drill. You will notice your drill does not follow your center drilling well resulting in a off center hole.
I got to go out and get myself a metal turning lathe. The things you can do with it or just incredible and it's therapeutic to watch them work. As it is to watch your video. Thanks for this
Very nice - Good video and I like when a presenter includes their mistakes. Always a lesson to be learned!
With that screw at the last end of your presentation, you'll want to make a hollowground screwdriver that matches so, that you don't torque out as you tighten the screw.
This guy is giving so much value it's insane. So appreciated.
Bravo! It has never occurred to me to use a tap as a hob. I have been enjoying your movies lately.
I'm a machinist for a living. I make flight parts and just regular turbine parts for GE power units. Lot of dovetails in blade rings and cutting chamfers on blade segments to go into the dovetails. Anyway that measuring tool that you were using to measure your brass bushing is a vernier. A vernier scale to be exact. It is not a micrometer. It might measure out to thousands, but at micrometer has a dial and indications for .0001 as well as half .0001. I like your channel though it's definitely informative though for people new to this machining thing.
Man, I am loving your videos.
Tailstock die and tap power threading tip.
Learned it from an old timer just a few months ago
Makes it easier.
Leave the tailstock lose and free moving, when it catches the thread it autofeeds perfectly....
Until you catch a shoulder and pull your hair out while pulling peices of metal out of your small die. But it takes less practice
Awesome video. Never thought to use a tap as a hob.
Thorughly enjoyable, but I can't help feeling it's not quite representative, it purports to show how early machinists made this micrometer, but it unabashedly uses an _endless_ array of modern conveniences and machinists tools. It it does not in any way teach about how this device was actually made back in the day, it shows how to build it when you have full access to a modern machine shop and all the knowledge of a trained machiniest.
Watching those cuts walk right back into the teeth of the spinning tap was magical!
When cutting that long screw at 6:00, how does it cut along the previous thread to make it deeper? With it spinning that fast I'd figure it would be off during the second pass over and so on.
You are a mad man, and I love you! I have to thank your mom and dad for bringing you to this world just to be curious human being that you are. I use a caliper every day but I never thought of even thinking about who made it??? I make things. I make custom made lighting fixtures. 2' to 20'+ in diameter. Thank you for this... Thanks man. You are amazing.
The high speed steel inserts are a great note.. never heard of them before and they clearly have a place, especially for "home shops." Good job.. as we've come to expect.. very thoughtful (or maybe I should say "pre-thoughtful" as it reflects the planning phase).
Not a hands on person but watching this is so satisfying i really cant explain?
Amazing talent that raises machining to an art form.
This is amazingly relaxing for some reason
Holy shit idk much about any of this stuff but I almost spat my beer out when I saw that black polish. The science makes sense and it looks super cool
Definitely subbed
my 2 favorite channels: this one, and AvE
Ahhh they are good but they ain't no this old tony
U should check out click spring
What channel is AvE ? Is that an abbreviation
You sure have a lot of unique technique and cool tooling. Thanks for sharing your work!
Nice video, but in regards to the tapping/threading die, you might wanna untighten the tailstock (so it'll slide just easy enough) and have it "pulled" towards the spindle. This will get you through most threads, aside the ones that are more of a surface finish (i.e. below M2).
Great ideas. I see your Jacob’s flex collet chuck locking ring has broken teeth like mine.
When this happened I thought all was lost. I polished the burrs and continue to use it when needed. They have their place.
Nice work! For a real black polish though, I would suggest diamond paste on a zinc block that has been either milled or filed flat. You can use the same procedure that you did with the emery cloth and paper in the lathe but with a zinc disc. Sacrificial anodes for boats come in handy.
Hot damn that looks like a fun way to spend an afternoon. Wish I knew someone who had a lathe to play around with.
Used a tap as a hob! That's glorious!
Theses have all the thrill of a good technical manual! (But that’s a really GOOD thing for us engineering geeks!)
Don't know why you are not famous, or maybe you are. Your voice over talent alone is amazing.
Great video, and I really like your channel. Just a couple of things... your tailstock is miles off the centre line, the reamer you show near the beginning has to move a huge amount sideways to enter the hole. That needs adjusting.
At 5:35 you state that for Carbide inserts you need high RPM and deep cuts. These statements are completely false. Yes, you CAN use them at higher RPM and you CAN take deep cuts but you don't HAVE to. I use them all the time in the home workshop and they are much more convenient and longer lasting than HSS tools. I still use HSS for the occasional one where the shape demands it, but for general turning, it's Carbide all the way. Sharp corners should be avoided wherever possible and slight changed to designs easily accommodate a small corner radius. I'd recommend them to anyone.
22 years machining, I agree I make light cuts and low rpm with carbine on a lathe all the time, works just fine.
I love the music. Makes the video all that more enjoyable.
That tap hobbing was neat, never seen that before. Hope your tailstock it is better aligned than it looked.
I have an old micrometer that looks similar to the french Palmer design. It doesn't have a maker's mark and I have always wondered how old it is. I mean I suppose it could just be something that was cheaply made to an old design during the war, but I really don't know.
i have just got my first lathe and i find your show very informing thanks
I've got to make one of those tailstock die holders soon for one of my projects, although I mainly work in plastic and with extra fine threads so I can rotate the chuck by hand and feed gently with the tailstock unlocked.
I found with plastic carbide inserts work really well, just have to use them as brand new for plastic, and then later on you can use them for anything else. Works well with PTFE, which needs that really sharp edge to get any sort of stability in the part. Same for drilling it, brand new cobalt steel bits are perfect, later on you still get good results on steel, though I found that 316 stainless I just budget one drill bit per hole hand held, especially using HSS ones. Work hardening on stainless can be a real PITA, especially if you are doing repairs and cannot detemper the part.
I highly recommend quickly throwing together a wood guard to put over the bedways while changing out the chuck. They are really simple to make - plywood and 2 2x4's to sit around the back and front of the ways. 99% of the time it won't do anything, but that 1% when the chuck accidentally slips, it will save your hands/fingers from a serious injury and the ways from accidental damage.
I appreciate the thought - I actually do have a board I use when I change into my 4 jaw chuck - it's a beast, but the smaller ones I feel comfortable not using it and the Jacobs chuck is especially light.
Even just a canvas cloth ( old pair of jeans material) will work well there, and as a bonus just keep it oiled, with a blend of engine oil and a little wax, and it provides a bed lube and rust protection at the same time.
I put a piece of plywood over the ways when I am changing parts / chuck at work. Most of the time they are too heavy to lift by hand though; That big 4 jaw is HEAVY.
Yahoo I just found you!!! I hope all of the rest of your videos are as good as this one.
The music indicates, you have a sense of humor. Loved it. Thumbs up and subscribed. Oh by the way, I've made my fair share of scrap accidents. That's how we learn,,,isn't it? Take care.
You can't claim to be a real machinist until you have scrapped about a ton of material.
Dana Schoen
You are so right. Take care.
My dream vintage milling machine was a German made machine made by "G. Boley" but I missed out on one due to not having enough cash during a auction.
so addictive to watch, thank you for all the hard work
If you're using a collett, and your size is simply in between two different collets, so long as you start and finish your piece without removing it at all until completely finished:
You can simply wrap a piece of paper, or Emory cloth around the work piece to increase the diameter.
*obviously it will not be completely concentric, that's why you must do all your machining before removing it.*
So it's only applicable to very specific circumstances.
(Love that tap, used as your cog idea, I've not seen that before. Very good idea.)
*great videos* ☀️😎🇺🇸☀️
"A nice even 5/16 th" Ha ! Ha ! Ha ! You imperial folks always amaze me.
Great video. Subscribed.
8mm, 5/16, same difference!
'imperial folks'? maybe just call them 'emperors' ...
There's two kinds of countries...
@@uTube486 one's that went to the moon and those that use metric
@@JimmysTractor well...
.3150 vs .3125 😉
Phenomenal attention to detail!
Great stuff. You don't mention during your threading operation how you go about it. I have done threads many times and find it challenging and rewarding. Those who haven't done it would probably benefit from a detailed explanation. That said, you do very excellent content and this project is quite interesting. Thanks for doing the work.
I sort of want to just have a lathe and just turn stock down over and over. Just watching the chips come off looks so satisfying.
Nicely shot and edited. I loved the tasteful use of music to liven up the process shots.
Very nice! You‘re channel will hit 100k subs in no time!
You had me subscribe right when you made that worm gear!
You are excellent in content and presentation. I only wish you made more content. Your videos excite my brain.
It takes me a long time to make each video. I'm launching a Patreon soon to help with hiring some people to assist me.
Hey, I love your videos, and I am slowly watching them in order. I had a quick question/comment about this one.
In this video, you had a point while you were making that one piece with the kind of mushroom profile. You bored the hole in it using several different bits, and I was hoping you would have explained the why, and what the smoke was each time, and the liquid you were adding.
I'm sure experienced machinists would know exactly what you were doing, but I'm a layman, and was hoping for more detail there.
Cheers, and thanks for making these awesome videos.
Lastly my shop lathe was a POS that my home drill press made it even more accurate. It's a matter of making a tool right to keep it under control then it will work fairly well.
It's always fascinating to see an expert ! thank you for posting.
Right up there with Marty's Matchbox Makeovers
If you use a lay laydown threading insert you can take some pretty impressive cuts, particularly on a 10EE such as yours.
Nice lathe, I see the taper attachment. I wonder if it has electric leadscrew reverse?
@@jeffbeck9444 the headstock fwd/rev control is there so probably not
You machine a precision lead screw on a lathe with precision lead screw, but did lathes had these at the time this thing was made?
Regarding tap/die use in the tailstock: make a sliding holder with a handle for those small (< M8 threads) threads, that way you don't have any problems following the tool with your tailstock and makes it less tedious to work with.
That method of making the worm gear using that tap as a hob is shear genius
I cant take credit for doing it first but it is highly effective!
6:35 - I don't understand how you get the tool to start cutting exactly at the same rotational point it started at last time when you are deepening the thread. What mechanism is there on a lathe that says hey, go! start moving right exactly at now... and how do you get the tool exactly back at the same starting point over and over again... because it seems if either is off by any amount, it's going to fuck up the thread you are trying to make instead of making it deeper. What is even moving it, some worm gear that is engaged and disengaged automatically, and how to tell it to stop?
On a manual lathe like the one in the video, the carriage that's running back and forth cutting the stock is moved by a leadscrew. The leadscrew is driven thru a series of gears directly off the spindle which is spinning the stock. The gears can be changed to alter how far the carriage moves for each revolution of the spindle which translates to the number of threads per inch or the distance between the threads for metric fasteners. Either way, as long as you keep the gearing connected between the spindle and the leadscrew, the carriage will always track the same 'groove'. But leaving the carriage connected to the leadscrew all the time isn't desirable because when you get to the end of the cut, you have to back the cutter out then reverse back to the beginning, readjust the cutter depth a little deeper, then make your next pass. It takes a long time to 'screw' the carriage back to the starting point because the machine has to run slow enough for the operator to stop it when the cutter is in the 'run out' groove at the far end of the threads. Since most lathes don't allow for setting separate forward and reverse speeds and it's often inconvenient to change them, you end up reversing at the same slow speed you're cutting at. It also adds a lot of unnecessary wear on the leadscrew and the half-nut which is the device that locks the carriage to the leadscrew. To get around these problems, you release the half-nut at the end of the pass then manually crank the carriage back to the start position. Since you've broken the gear train to the spindle, the threads will now be out of time with the cutter. To make sure that the timing is correctly re-established there's a device called a 'threading dial' that's typically numbered 1-4 but I've seen some numbered 1-8, with an additional hash mark between each number. The dial is driven off the leadscrew and will turn 1 full revolution for each full revolution of the leadscrew. If you engage the half-nuts to start the carriage moving at the same number each time, the carriage will always follow the same 'groove'. Depending on the # of threads being cut, you may be able to engage the half-nut on any line, an even line, or an odd line. This will only work if the threads you're cutting are in the same system as the threads of the leadscrew. If you're cutting inch threads on a lathe with an inch based leadscrew, the theading dial works fine. If however you're cutting metric threads on an inch based lathe, you generally don't disconnect the half-nut, you back out of the cut and reverse the spindle until the carriage is screwed back to the start. Clear as mud?
@@marcseclecticstuff9497 - I don't think our huge industrial lathe from the 50's has any of that. So like... invisible mud. I'll have to look at it closer.
One thing I have never quite figured out about threads is how do you go about not having any even pitched and accurate threads to having them. These days there are of course options, but stepping back to purely mechanical era of machining, how do you go about cutting an accurate thread, if your lathe doesn't have accurately threaded lead screw to begin with?
I've got a thing for making screws... no idea why it took me so long to get around to watching this video, lol. Well done! 🙂
When center-drilling at 0:44 and adjusting the hole diameter at 1:35 the drill bit does not appear to be perfectly aligned (it moves slightly sideways when entering the hole). Is that a problem (or rather, why it isn't)?
Well done! Excited to see more. Some history on screw making would be an awesome follow up.
Way ahead of you there! Have a pile of historical research done, but it will be several months before I have access to my shop again and can do the practical part.
Machine Thinking awesome! I'm looking forward to what you have up your sleeve. It's like PBS did a whole series on foundations of mechanical accuracy. Keep up the good work
I don't know if this right but I cut a chamfer in the material I want to thread a die on, then I force the die onto the work by tightening the tailstock lead screw, once the die is threading on its own I release the tailstock lock so that it can move freely on the ways. This way you don't have to follow the thread. the only thing that is required is to stop the chuck when it is the length of thread you want then reverse it to remove the die from the work.
I love the scrap count. I try to reuse scrap aluminium on a daily basis or whatever matches manufactor's specifications.
I've found another channel! I love this sort of stuff. Subscribed!
AWESOME! I do so wish I had pursued my bearly interest in tool and die making.
that's a really cool technique with the tap!
Excellent video. Keep getting the subs, you'll be able to get that dro soon! My old Newall Sapphire just quit, so I need to get one too.
What happens to all the metal scraps and twisted waste bits?
Are they melted and reforged back into metal?
It's been two years- did you ever complete your rendition of the micrometer? You don't have any videos showing the assembly, or the final accuracy of the device- how did that turn out?
I'm impressed. Great stuff.
Nice video, but I strongly disagree with your comment @5:37, I use carbide insert tooling pretty much exclusively on my small lathe and the advantages are numerous. Although I can see that the chip breaker geometry is optimized for higher chip loads this is usually not a problem. And thanks to our Chinese friends, carbide is now relatively cheap.
When running a die or tapping a hole with the tail stock, leave it loose. That way, if you screw up your timing a bit, the tail stock will slide so the tool doesn't break.
You could make a rotating lap for the lathe and polish the heads perfectly that way.
8:55 ... Can someone please tell me the name of the tool seen here? How does it function? Its purpose? I've never seen this before. I find it very interesting for some strange reason. Anyone... Anyone ?
I have only watched a few videos. But, you have already reached "click 'like' as soon as the video begins" status. I look forward to catching up on every video you have made so far and will be watching all of your future endeavors as well.
From what I've read the rubber flex collets are even more accurate than ER collets. I'd really like a small version for my Sherline.
you need to re set your tail stock. You will like it better if you do. I noticed that when the reamer found the hole it had to bend over to get in the hole. Correct this by adjusting the tail stock . Unlike a lot of small lathes your tail stock is adjustable.
I might be wrong but i think what youre calling the worm gear is actually the worm wheel. What you call the lead screw is actually the worm gear.... And the lead screw in this case.
I had the video muted, but the worm wheel is the spur-like gear that gets driven, the worm is the spiraling gear that drives
Worm wheels are worm gears, as worms are just screws and not a gear. A gear is defined as being a toothed wheel, and a worm gear is a gear that meshes with a worm.
While worm wheel is the formally correct term, worm gear is also an informally correct term.
@@xaytana very interesting! Not to be pedantic but wouldn't that also mean that a helical gear is just a short multistart screw and not a gear? At what angle and number of starts does a gear become a screw?
@@DoRC a screw is a fastener that is threaded into a workpiece. If it's used to apply a load and turn something it is a gear. Just because something is helical doesn't mean screw is the right word. The other person is being pedantic but not in the right way.
@@kylekinsey2624 I know:). I was just wondering how he would respond to that while still sticking with what he said before.
Your. Videos. Are. Awesome.
Unfortunately I couldn't figure out which video is the start of making the micrometer and the others to continue. I'd like to see all from the start that's really interesting.
but the 3 jaw chuck has runout and reamer was not on center (tailstock alignment)?
Hope you don't mind this comment but you need a little cutting oil. It will make your bits last a LOT longer. You've got a lot of talent there.
Could you give me a hint what to do next in school with metal lathe...? I'm pretty novice but I like to use lathe a lot and you can find few things I made in my videos..
I have noticed that you do not use conventional coolant on the lathes. Is this due to the fact you use compressed air or do you not use coolant?
You could fix the damaged slot by welding and redoing the slot.
I've been doing this kind of work for nearly fifty years. Jimmy Carter was president the last time I used oil on anything.
Bingo Sun Noon why?
@@timvandenbrink4461 ; He ran out.
Do you have blueprints available for this? Hopefully one day I can make one
10:40 you can just leave the tailstock unlocked and let the thread push and pull it in the direction it needs to go at the exact speed it needs to go
Shalor McKee on smaller lathes, yes but my tailstock is over 30 lbs and is too heavy for that size thread.
@@machinethinking What I do in that case is I just keep my hand on the tailstock and give it a hand pushing/pulling in whatever direction it needs. It's a lot easier in my opinion