I'm glad you're happy with the result. This is a lot of work, and I'm just starting out with my build. A few questions for you: How did you calculate the number of DE90 clips you used for your walls? Did you just add up t the weight of the supplies and then divide that up by 35 lbs (the manufacture's recommended weight rating per clip)? Is your door uncoupled from one of the walls; if there's a solid connection at the door frame, that can couple your inner walls to those on the outside which would negate some of the effectiveness of the overall build. Where did you get the idea to use plywood between the layers of drywall in the ceiling? I'm in sure that the mass adds something, but I haven't seen that used elsewhere, and the extra weight could strain the limits of those clips.
For the walls I followed the instructions provided for the DE90 clips. I also emailed the manufacturer Regupol to verify. They said a 2’ x 4’ grid is needed for 2 layers of 5/8” drywall. I’m not sure about it tbh, that’s the same as I ended up with for the ceiling basically, and the clips are holding the full weight vs the walls which are sitting on the concrete floor. I might do some more research to see if I could get away with just DE90 near the top of the studs, if I were to do it again. I had the same concerns about the doors, so I’ve got 2 doors, one in each wall, and there’s no connection. I covered the gap over with fabric. That will be coming out in a future video. For the plywood I saw that in a video from a mix engineer I follow. His studio designer recommended it for being able to easily hang pictures etc. I’m going to use it for hanging acoustic panels without having to find studs. I calculated what was acceptable weight in the way you’re describing, including weight left over for acoustic panels plus buffer. I show that in my drywall video if you’re curious to see the details.
Thanks for the info! It sounds like you got a more helpful rep with regipul than I did. They basically just told me that they're only guidance was no more than 48 in apart and make sure that the weight was
@@cameronearl8091 I imagine they are playing it safe to avoid liabilities. If you haven’t seen it yet, look up the installation guide for the DE90s. It covers most situations. And if installing more clips than needed is the end result I’m not overly bothered. It’s a small cost among the thousands I’ve spent building the studio. More or less of them won’t make a difference on soundproofing. Another resource you can check out is the channel Soundproof Your Studio. It’s a guy named Wilson who used the same style of clips in his studio and he only put the top row in. He also offers training/courses which I would have done if I’d known about it earlier in my build.
Thanks for the nice series. Have you compared the noise before and after the insulation? Also does that transducer mic works connected directly to the PC or need amplifier as well?
Not for the insulation alone (assuming you mean the insulation in the walls and ceiling?). There’s a brief test of soundproofing in the doors video. The mic goes into an interface. It’s got a mono 1/8” connector.
I think acoustiseal would outlast it in terms of staying flexible and not cracking in the long run (20+ years), but I’d be curious if there’s any data to prove that one way or another. I used a slow dry caulk around my doors and it got me wondering about this idea too.
The plywood makes it easier to mount acoustic treatment. No difference on STC. The weight of the 3 layers I’m using is almost the same as 2 layers of full weight 5/8” drywall. If you’re interested, there’s more details on how I made this decision in my video on drywall and air sealing.
hello! im in same frustration which is leading me to re do my ceiling as well, two questions i have is, how did you secure plywood to the gypsum board? screws or just acoustic caulk? also what is the brand you used for vapor barrier sealant since my home town does not carry specifically acoustic sealant as well? thanks for the great vid!
I used screws for the plywood. It's important to put screws through into the furring channels for each layer. The strength of the assembly depends on the furring channels carrying the weight. You don't need as many for the first couple layers, just be sure to put lots in the final layer. I bought 3 sizes of screws to make sure I had the right length for each layer. I used LePage Acousti-Seal. It's the only sealant that I could find locally that stays flexible over time.
@@simonbuildsastudio thanks for the indepth response. I am really scared to tackle the project on my own, but seeing your footsteps makes mine a bit less burdening.
I know how you feel. 2 things I can recommend: 1. Buy Home Recording Studio: Build It Like The Pros by Rod Gervais. This was my template for my own build. 2. Check out the channel Soundproof Your Studio. He offers training courses that I would have considered if I had known out about it earlier in my build. It’s a marathon for sure. You can do it. These resources can make it easier.
No trouble at all. I got mine from Rona, but Home Depot also had the same kind. I can't remember the size and guage off the top of my head, but it was in the instructions for the Sonusclips. If you're also using Sonusclips look up the PDF guide (easy to find with a Google search), and then check if the size listed available at your local stores.
Would you have rebuilt the ceiling like I did?
What a massive undertaking, thanks for doing all this--not only the studio but also the videos, which I have found extremely accessible and useful.
I'm glad you're happy with the result. This is a lot of work, and I'm just starting out with my build. A few questions for you:
How did you calculate the number of DE90 clips you used for your walls? Did you just add up t the weight of the supplies and then divide that up by 35 lbs (the manufacture's recommended weight rating per clip)?
Is your door uncoupled from one of the walls; if there's a solid connection at the door frame, that can couple your inner walls to those on the outside which would negate some of the effectiveness of the overall build.
Where did you get the idea to use plywood between the layers of drywall in the ceiling? I'm in sure that the mass adds something, but I haven't seen that used elsewhere, and the extra weight could strain the limits of those clips.
For the walls I followed the instructions provided for the DE90 clips. I also emailed the manufacturer Regupol to verify. They said a 2’ x 4’ grid is needed for 2 layers of 5/8” drywall. I’m not sure about it tbh, that’s the same as I ended up with for the ceiling basically, and the clips are holding the full weight vs the walls which are sitting on the concrete floor. I might do some more research to see if I could get away with just DE90 near the top of the studs, if I were to do it again.
I had the same concerns about the doors, so I’ve got 2 doors, one in each wall, and there’s no connection. I covered the gap over with fabric. That will be coming out in a future video.
For the plywood I saw that in a video from a mix engineer I follow. His studio designer recommended it for being able to easily hang pictures etc. I’m going to use it for hanging acoustic panels without having to find studs. I calculated what was acceptable weight in the way you’re describing, including weight left over for acoustic panels plus buffer. I show that in my drywall video if you’re curious to see the details.
Thanks for the info! It sounds like you got a more helpful rep with regipul than I did. They basically just told me that they're only guidance was no more than 48 in apart and make sure that the weight was
@@cameronearl8091 I imagine they are playing it safe to avoid liabilities. If you haven’t seen it yet, look up the installation guide for the DE90s. It covers most situations. And if installing more clips than needed is the end result I’m not overly bothered. It’s a small cost among the thousands I’ve spent building the studio. More or less of them won’t make a difference on soundproofing.
Another resource you can check out is the channel Soundproof Your Studio. It’s a guy named Wilson who used the same style of clips in his studio and he only put the top row in. He also offers training/courses which I would have done if I’d known about it earlier in my build.
Thanks for the nice series. Have you compared the noise before and after the insulation? Also does that transducer mic works connected directly to the PC or need amplifier as well?
Not for the insulation alone (assuming you mean the insulation in the walls and ceiling?). There’s a brief test of soundproofing in the doors video.
The mic goes into an interface. It’s got a mono 1/8” connector.
I wonder if acoustiseal would be similar to performance as "big streach" caulk. given it's elastic properties. Might be worth considering.
I think acoustiseal would outlast it in terms of staying flexible and not cracking in the long run (20+ years), but I’d be curious if there’s any data to prove that one way or another. I used a slow dry caulk around my doors and it got me wondering about this idea too.
Why did you choose to sandwich plywood between the two drywall layers? Does this setup have a higher STC rating?
The plywood makes it easier to mount acoustic treatment. No difference on STC. The weight of the 3 layers I’m using is almost the same as 2 layers of full weight 5/8” drywall. If you’re interested, there’s more details on how I made this decision in my video on drywall and air sealing.
hello! im in same frustration which is leading me to re do my ceiling as well, two questions i have is, how did you secure plywood to the gypsum board? screws or just acoustic caulk? also what is the brand you used for vapor barrier sealant since my home town does not carry specifically acoustic sealant as well? thanks for the great vid!
I used screws for the plywood. It's important to put screws through into the furring channels for each layer. The strength of the assembly depends on the furring channels carrying the weight. You don't need as many for the first couple layers, just be sure to put lots in the final layer. I bought 3 sizes of screws to make sure I had the right length for each layer.
I used LePage Acousti-Seal. It's the only sealant that I could find locally that stays flexible over time.
@@simonbuildsastudio thanks for the indepth response. I am really scared to tackle the project on my own, but seeing your footsteps makes mine a bit less burdening.
I know how you feel. 2 things I can recommend:
1. Buy Home Recording Studio: Build It Like The Pros by Rod Gervais. This was my template for my own build.
2. Check out the channel Soundproof Your Studio. He offers training courses that I would have considered if I had known out about it earlier in my build.
It’s a marathon for sure. You can do it. These resources can make it easier.
Where did you order/ buy the channel from and what size and gauge. If it not to much trouble
No trouble at all. I got mine from Rona, but Home Depot also had the same kind. I can't remember the size and guage off the top of my head, but it was in the instructions for the Sonusclips. If you're also using Sonusclips look up the PDF guide (easy to find with a Google search), and then check if the size listed available at your local stores.
Ok thank you
Huh?
The type of mic for testing was a huge help, thanks!