As a machinist I relate to your observations. I don't know the block but we generally leave a step at the bottom of the bore and press a straight liner down till it contacts step, then machine down liner to near deck height, deck block & bore/hone to size. Never had a failure but think our Aussie cast irons are a different kettle to work with.
Very good of you to point out how you machine and fit the liners, the extra care taken, a few machine shops hopefully will follow the example to the benefit of everybody
Really interesting and informative video... 👍 it's amazing how precise everything has to be and the tolerances you work to. I just like watching ppl build engines
Question about long studs. Do they do long studs for a 205 block now? They don’t have the same amount of material at the bottom of the waterway as a 200 block. I found that out the hard way back in the 90’s when I long studded a 205. Four of the studs only had about two threads engagement and pulled out. Had to helicoil the top of the block for normal studs on those four so the block ended up with a mixture of std bolts, long and short studs and you needed three different socket to torque the head down! Interesting about top hat interference. We always used to go for a gnat’s clearance, allow for any tolerance in liner concentricity. Enjoying the channel, great stuff.
I was right there with you on those liners. I was thinking “Chamfer... Taper...” so you say “Chamfer... Taper...” so guess what? Just subscribed! Now I gotta figure out this whole “Cosworth” thing.
The Car looks great, but I didn't even notice the decal on the rear of the roll cage until you mentioned it. I think it should of been done in a lighter colour so it stands out. Great video, Cheers.
I always thought top hat liners couldn't sink in any further after being pressed in, literally by design short of breaking the flange off. The Westwood liners I've fitted always have a recess cut under the flange to remove the radius and any possibility of it giving a false being falsely down but i also gently rubbed some emery cloth around the top edge of the bore to remove any possibility of a burr
I did your option 2 on a Ford T88 block about 15 years ago for a customer who had basically the same problem where all the liners had dropped to a certain degree after a rebuild, the so called engine specialist who bored and fitted the liners said it wasn't their problem as the owner had built the engine but I explained to the owner that the machine shop probably never chamfered the top edge of the bore in the block and probably didn't chamfer the bottom edge of the liner flange so you were not getting the liner full home in the block, after the engine owners 100% agreement to my suggestion that he had nothing to loose by trying it I pressed the liners down first then faced the surface of the block just until it just cleaned the tops of the liners, head was faced as well and engine reassembled, it worked absolutely fine for years after that and was still working when he sold the car.
I really enjoy your channel. I would not have the ability to do what you do. There is so much that can go wrong, after you deliver an engine. The customer will say it was your work, when it was not. Too much for me. Thank you
If you had to have it running quick what might you consider? Assuming deep pockets of course and piston TDC is okay. Seat home and hone the liners and mill the block? Deal with the compression if a problem with super petrol or whip up a little vacuum operated windshield washer reservoir water injection... or die grind piston crowns? Decisions feel differculty... when it's not your stuff.
I work closely with Darton Sleeves in the US. All of their flanged dry liners have a slight under cut under the flange to eliminate this issue. The lower outside diameter of the flange has a slight chamfer to avoid shaving of the block material upon sleeve installation. There should also be slight clearance around the flange as he mentioned to prevent shaving regardless.
@@stevedemirjian8236 Nice to know. A liner looks pretty dull, but it’s the product of incredible technology development and skill. It deserves great respect.
Interesting problem with those liners. I made a similar bone headed mistake when turning bearing races for a lathe cross slide lead screw bearing conversation. The bore for the races and loose balls was turned with a boring bar using a carbide insert which had a small radius on the tip so the bottom of the bore had a nice little radius. The races that I turned had a sharp angle cut so the race did not go all the way to the bottom of the bore, and the races would bind up when I tightened everything down because the race stood a little proud of the bottom of the bore. Rookie mistake. The race after being turned and parted off was too small to chuck up in the lathe at that point, so I carefully hand filed a chamfer on the edge so it would then sit flat in the bottom of the bore. My question for those liners would be are they really seated as far as they will go? I realize it's probably not practical to extract them and create a fillet in each cylinder. You mentioned milling down the block a thou or two and putting it back together, but if the liners are not butted up solid against the bore I wonder if they won't migrate down a little more over time?
Definitely an interesting problem, and I think you're on the money (non-chamfered / radius'd edges in the bore). In the event that the current liners are larger than your variety (ie. can't re-bore and re-fit your liners), could the old liners not be pressed out; the existing shoulder/ledge be built-up with weld or braze material, re-machined and the existing liners re-installed? Another alternative would be to pull the existing liners; take some measurements; and make some shims (almost like piston rings) out of high yield material that can be installed on the shoulders, then re-fit the existing liners. Re-machine the existing liners/deck flush. As the shims are largely constrained, there should be little to no change in their thickness over time... especially if they're made of an equal or higher yield material than the parent block. Enjoy your videos - keep up the great work!
How about a simple deck the block and use a grp a gasket as to a metal wrc style as liners have settled its the easiest cheapest option obv skim both block and head
The customer would not have had this issue if he would have shipped it over to Pakistan, & let the Pakistan Engine Builders rebuild it, on the dusty floor, with only hand tools, no torque wrenches, & flip flops!!👍🏾
Yes watched those videos. I can't believe the craftsmanship with little or no tools those guys achieve What would they be capable of if they had a fully equipped workshop.
I would think for the fitting and interference of the liners in the block it would be best to freeze the liners and drop them into a warm block. This I am thinking would allow a perfect bottomed out non interference fit of the liner top. 🤔
I want to find a little Amilcar or Salmson prewar cyclecar as my next project .. Swap out the little 1100cc sidevalve jobbie with maybe a datsun A15 and a little eaton supercharger off a merc so its like the hot setup with the Cozette blower.. Not gonna be tremendously quick, but its always something ive wanted to do - smiles per mile
Nice kitcar, what engine and gearbox has it got? I've got a locost 7 which I built with my dad and brother, based on a escort mk2 and originally had a Ford xflow 1.3 then 1720cc but changed to a c20xe with vauxhall to Ford type 9 Bell housing. I've just put a 3j diff and bigger halfshats in the English axle and had the gearbox rebuilt so I can't wait to get a couple of track days in this year.
We'd leave the sleeve proud by 2 to 4 mils. It would catch the head gasket metal ring better. We would also do a re torque one the head after 3 or 4 full heat cycles. This seemed to resolve a lot of come back issues. Perhaps on high compression cylinders this method could create other issues.
2-4 mil ? Thats as thick as head gasket, surprised the gasket seated on water and oil ways. Cossie head bolts are stretch/ torque to yield should never need a retorque as can lead to bolt failure.
@@chrisclarke6344 the older cos did not use stretch bolts. I think those stretch bolts cause more problems than are a great solution ( to what problem???) The raised lip seals the combustion chamber and with a good quality gasket ( not cheaply made) will easily seal water and oil jackets. One of the best things about modern gaskets is the addition of silicon outlines to the water and oil passageways.
@@davidedgar2818 all yb cosworths used stretch bolts, in 4 stages 19 lbft 38 lbft and then two 90°. I cannot see that a 2-4 mill step will let a head gasket seal no matter how much silicon is on it 2-4 mill is 80-160thou that is one hell of a step. The way it was always done was by 'o' ringing the block with 38 thou wire so it was proud of block by approx 15 tho to seal the fire ring. Stretch bolts were a way of allowing alloy heads to expand and contract in relation to block as alloy has a greater expansion rate. I worked on many of these back in the day.
@@davidedgar2818 "wierd european versions" ? All the cosworth engines were assembled by cosworth, left or right hand drive has no bearing on the engine. 5000 rs cosworths with 204 hp were made, for homologation purposes. 500 rs500s for the same purpose, but with different tubo inlet manifold and injectors with picked blocks for thicker cylinder walls these gave 220hp assembled by aston martin for ford. They then made the sapphire in 2wd and 4wd versions, the 4wd used a stronger block the '200' not the '205 /t88' used til then. The '200' had a reworked head and pistons for strength and to stop piston slap. These gave 220hp. They then homologated the escort cosworth 4wd built with a few tweaks in inlet and turbo by karman for ford. Production ceased in 1996. All these engine versions used stretch bolts, being assembled by cosworth for ford. That is from my memory of cosworths. If you know of the era or block numbers of these engines that didnt use them i would be interested to know. That aside that 80- 160 thou step on the liners still needs explaining because for the life of me i cannot see how an engine can seal its head with that step, the head will bottom out on the gasket well before any pressure is applied to the parts of gasket not in the circumference of the liner top.
Just a question seeing as its a 205 block, has it got 205 on both sides of block? If not from memory from the deep past it is probably not a true cossie block but a weaker block made for sierras. These blocks were only good for approx 350 hp. The double 205s had different waterways and fire ring sealing surfaces. All cossies going over 350 always had 'o'ringed blocks to prevent blowby on fire rings. As well as long stud kit. Back in the day cossie blocks were only linered when out of rebore tolerances, there were a few converted to wet liners for rally cross but these were rare. I feel you will have fewer head gasket failures if you 'o' ring blocks or liners with .80 mig wire. Just my thoughts on it from what i can remember from when they were current and owners wanted big hp. The true 'holy grail' was the 200 blocks much stronger and heavier. The 205s at big hp were known for block spllitting. A 'picked' block could be bored and stroked to 2.4 l to give around 500hp reliably without stupid boost pressures.
What is the most common denominator in these failures? It seems to me that it happens from the time it leaves your shop and when other hands touch it. Maybe it would be best to take in the whole vehicle and work hand in hand with a tuner to do the start to finish job. Only then can you stand behind it, otherwise it makes no sense to allow others' work to be covered by yourselves.
Awe sorry but ... think the strips look like blue /black insulating tape ... car overall looks cracking and do think you guys are doing a great job ..👍
Yes, but I would measure the lip and the counterbore so I knew where I was before I pushed then in. But, I’m a diesel guy, so I know liners like to mess with you :o)
@@teamidris fordson dexta liners with no flange are total b@#$%#$ds as well, heat block in parts washer, cool liners in suitable freezer then push in with press hoping liner doesnt crack. Hatefull things.
I had my cosworth engine rebuilt and went the route of ARP stud and nut kit. A few people said I’d have issues and within 500 miles the head gasket had blown. Removed the ARP kit and went with a MLS gasket & standard head bolts and it’s been fine ever since running 32 psi of boost. Have you found the same with the ARP kit?
Hi I’m currently building a cosworth engine for my car I have never done the valves in a cosworth cylinder head as I’ve always had a single overhead cam pinto turbo is there any specific tools I need to use to put the hydraulic valve buckets and collets in
If the liners have sunk then surely that’s a claim on the company that machined the block and fitted the liners. Why don’t people step bore instead of using flanged liners? The liner then sits on a ledge at the bottom of the bore and the top is under pressure from the head gasket so couple to the interference fit there is no possibility of a liner moving.
Loved the video quick question In your opinion would the new fuel e10 have anything to do with any of the problems your company are seeing lately? cheers
I would think not the two possible problems i can see from experience is that e10 is a bit like methanol or other alky fuels, the engine itself will have no real problems, apart from alky has lower calorific value so you will need to give it more to avoid detonation and undesirable lean conditions. Modern efi should automatically compensate, on older stuff bigger jets or remap will prevent it. The other issue is the stuff will go off if not used and clog filters jets injectors, possibly also cause degradation to rubber items. So just use it asap (which you will do as engine will need more of the stuff) modern cars will have correct rubber items, older ones may need upgrade. These are my views on subject but maybe more or less. Hope this helps.
I've got an old Frontera 2.0 sport and it really doesn't like the E10. It's not a performance engine but there's a noticeable difference when I've used E10, I avoid E10 in it now. I'm hoping that electric conversions will come down in price enough to make it worth converting in the future.
@@Falconhunter276 I have had the engine management light on for last 8 months and even with proper diagnostic software the light will NOT stay OFF Yesterday i stuck a bottle of Redex injector cleaner in £4 and put £50 worth of Tesco's momentum 99 and I didn't even start the engine and the engine management light went out.................(best ever i had was 1.8lx Mondeo mk3, 24.7mpg). I went a drive with the family on Valentines day to loch Lomond and put about 130 miles on it and engine management light still out, car starts easier, mpg @ 27mpg and feels and sounds better to drive!!! never seen that it always been worse than even 2.0 engine.
I paid £1.479 per liter (e10) at my local jet garage yesterday I have used this station for years and my engine management light will NOT STAY OFF!!! mk3 Mondeo 1.8 petrol, LAST 8 months light will not stay off but yesterday i put £50 worth of Tesco's momentum 99 and a £4 bottle of redex injector cleaner in and done over 130 miles through Loch Lomond and the car feels, sounds, mpg better than ever, goes smoother quieter and more economical than e10 and engine management light STILL OFF!!!! ~#Cheap diluted 95ron unleaded using all the waste chemicals wow. Revelation added water in your oil due to vapors so servicing becomes MORE ESSENTIAL!!!......FU*KING GREAT GUYS!.
@@MWSRD 27 out of that yikes, my 600hp xfr gives 24 on average. On a run frpm norfolk to dingwall at xmas it gave 38 average. Are you sure you havnt got some other issue than e10?
I think it’s age paranoia gets worse that’s why I write everything down when I build a engine and the tightening of stretch bolts I mark after every stage
I'm just wondering why does it seem you guys work is always coming back to you, idk if I'm getting the whole picture, or if every other video is a warranty, doesn't help your shop is filthy and I have never seen a clean room in your videos.
It seem most of your videos are problem engines or customers, it doesn’t fill me with confidence for you to facilitate a repair to my car, maybe some videos of productive builds will help your channel?
If engines didn't break down or other garages bodge them he would be out of business, I also have to deal with the public for my work, believe me some people will pull every stunt in the book. Because basically nobody wants to pay and their looking for something for nothing.
I was just thinking the same... Must do plenty or run of the mill stuff to pay the bills... That said, there are shysters on both sides of the counter....
@@chiefrocka8604 I used to work for Rolls Royce in the design department of the aero engines division,could I claim to perform competent work on a Trent?,not outwits Rolls Royce's facility no!,twat.
@@MJTAUTOMOTIVE indeed the block will never get hot enough to do that to cast iron. If it does approx 1500° you have a more pressing problem than 'tempering' a little bit of the block
Unfortunately not its got 205 on the block, a 2.3 lima would solve the problem apart from the fact that nothing from a 205 will fit the lima, been there.
Well my first question is why didn’t he go back to the machine shop he had the work done at fitting those liners ? Secondly why didn’t he have them build the engine instead of half arsing it big herd bit there crap 💩 thirdly why didnt he come to you to start with now he’s racking up another £1,000 plus 💵. More money that sense some people if you ask me if you have that d set org of engine then get yourselves to build it from scratch then if someone methinv does h go o wrong 😑 it will be sorted out
Hello. Notice that Ford is popular in the UK. Is that right? I have MK4 Ford mondeo 2012. Ford is a strange brand. Ford has too many cheap solutions! Take my Mondeo mk4 which is a good car but it has too many cheap and not the most elegant solutions to a little too many things. Many say that ford is like that.
Speaking a a life long turner and machinist IMO that was a very accurate description on the sleeve
flange fitment senarios. Well done sir.
As a machinist I relate to your observations. I don't know the block but we generally leave a step at the bottom of the bore and press a straight liner down till it contacts step, then machine down liner to near deck height, deck block & bore/hone to size. Never had a failure but think our Aussie cast irons are a different kettle to work with.
You can tell he loves what he does. So excited to see what’s going on with an engine, he’s snuck in on a Saturday to have a look 😅
Very good of you to point out how you machine and fit the liners, the extra care taken, a few machine shops hopefully will follow the example to the benefit of everybody
Really interesting and informative video... 👍 it's amazing how precise everything has to be and the tolerances you work to. I just like watching ppl build engines
simplest way to deal with non paying anyone is don't release goods until cleared payment is received, I have had to chase main dealers , never again.
Love the car. It looks splendid!
Question about long studs. Do they do long studs for a 205 block now? They don’t have the same amount of material at the bottom of the waterway as a 200 block.
I found that out the hard way back in the 90’s when I long studded a 205. Four of the studs only had about two threads engagement and pulled out. Had to helicoil the top of the block for normal studs on those four so the block ended up with a mixture of std bolts, long and short studs and you needed three different socket to torque the head down!
Interesting about top hat interference. We always used to go for a gnat’s clearance, allow for any tolerance in liner concentricity.
Enjoying the channel, great stuff.
Still can’t bud, thanks for watching 👍
Car looks stunning….less is more, it suits the car, and finishes it off nicely 👍🇮🇲
I was right there with you on those liners. I was thinking “Chamfer... Taper...” so you say “Chamfer... Taper...” so guess what? Just subscribed! Now I gotta figure out this whole “Cosworth” thing.
The Car looks great, but I didn't even notice the decal on the rear of the roll cage until you mentioned it.
I think it should of been done in a lighter colour so it stands out.
Great video, Cheers.
I always thought top hat liners couldn't sink in any further after being pressed in, literally by design short of breaking the flange off. The Westwood liners I've fitted always have a recess cut under the flange to remove the radius and any possibility of it giving a false being falsely down but i also gently rubbed some emery cloth around the top edge of the bore to remove any possibility of a burr
I love that you show everything! Not many people do! I build race bike engines. Will be sending you some work soon.
I did your option 2 on a Ford T88 block about 15 years ago for a customer who had basically the same problem where all the liners had dropped to a certain degree after a rebuild, the so called engine specialist who bored and fitted the liners said it wasn't their problem as the owner had built the engine but I explained to the owner that the machine shop probably never chamfered the top edge of the bore in the block and probably didn't chamfer the bottom edge of the liner flange so you were not getting the liner full home in the block, after the engine owners 100% agreement to my suggestion that he had nothing to loose by trying it I pressed the liners down first then faced the surface of the block just until it just cleaned the tops of the liners, head was faced as well and engine reassembled, it worked absolutely fine for years after that and was still working when he sold the car.
think that would be the way i would go.
@@kennethtalbott2233 it defintley would be worth a try if the owner was in agreement to try it
'O' ring liner top as well, plus long stud kit, that helped them stay together back when they current.
@@madeljacky probably won't though due to it being a cosworth engine.
Dying to see your kitcar! Love the depth of your knowledge on engine machining. Keep up the amazing work
I really enjoy your channel. I would not have the ability to do what you do. There is so much that can go wrong, after you deliver an engine. The customer will say it was your work, when it was not. Too much for me. Thank you
Design looks awesome. Need to put blue harnesses in it now. Maybe a single blue line on one of the alloy wheel spokes would pull it together
loving the kit car. i bought a pinstripe tool to stripe my jag. haven't tried it yet.
Kit car is looking fantastic.
The kit car looks amazing.
If you had to have it running quick what might you consider? Assuming deep pockets of course and piston TDC is okay.
Seat home and hone the liners and mill the block? Deal with the compression if a problem with super petrol or whip up a little vacuum operated windshield washer reservoir water injection... or die grind piston crowns?
Decisions feel differculty... when it's not your stuff.
Kit car looks awesome! Hoping you have to take the liners out of the Cosworth block as would like to see that process. As usual though great content.
Surprising the liner manufacturers didn’t undercut the shoulder radius knowing the risk of reliance on hand deburring after boring.
I work closely with Darton Sleeves in the US. All of their flanged dry liners have a slight under cut under the flange to eliminate this issue. The lower outside diameter of the flange has a slight chamfer to avoid shaving of the block material upon sleeve installation. There should also be slight clearance around the flange as he mentioned to prevent shaving regardless.
@@stevedemirjian8236 Nice to know. A liner looks pretty dull, but it’s the product of incredible technology development and skill. It deserves great respect.
Interesting problem with those liners. I made a similar bone headed mistake when turning bearing races for a lathe cross slide lead screw bearing conversation. The bore for the races and loose balls was turned with a boring bar using a carbide insert which had a small radius on the tip so the bottom of the bore had a nice little radius. The races that I turned had a sharp angle cut so the race did not go all the way to the bottom of the bore, and the races would bind up when I tightened everything down because the race stood a little proud of the bottom of the bore. Rookie mistake. The race after being turned and parted off was too small to chuck up in the lathe at that point, so I carefully hand filed a chamfer on the edge so it would then sit flat in the bottom of the bore.
My question for those liners would be are they really seated as far as they will go? I realize it's probably not practical to extract them and create a fillet in each cylinder. You mentioned milling down the block a thou or two and putting it back together, but if the liners are not butted up solid against the bore I wonder if they won't migrate down a little more over time?
do like that jacket mate. good colours
Car looks great and love the font
Definitely an interesting problem, and I think you're on the money (non-chamfered / radius'd edges in the bore). In the event that the current liners are larger than your variety (ie. can't re-bore and re-fit your liners), could the old liners not be pressed out; the existing shoulder/ledge be built-up with weld or braze material, re-machined and the existing liners re-installed?
Another alternative would be to pull the existing liners; take some measurements; and make some shims (almost like piston rings) out of high yield material that can be installed on the shoulders, then re-fit the existing liners. Re-machine the existing liners/deck flush. As the shims are largely constrained, there should be little to no change in their thickness over time... especially if they're made of an equal or higher yield material than the parent block.
Enjoy your videos - keep up the great work!
How about a simple deck the block and use a grp a gasket as to a metal wrc style as liners have settled its the easiest cheapest option obv skim both block and head
The customer would not have had this issue if he would have shipped it over to Pakistan, & let the Pakistan Engine Builders rebuild it, on the dusty floor, with only hand tools, no torque wrenches, & flip flops!!👍🏾
Yes watched those videos.
I can't believe the craftsmanship with little or no tools those guys achieve
What would they be capable of if they had a fully equipped workshop.
Ahhh the Cossie YB - putting marriages under strain since 1986.
Love the graphics,less is more as they say.
Could you put the liners in the freezer overnight to stop the risk of shaving material off when interference fitting ??
Graphics look great dude, especially from the side.
I would think for the fitting and interference of the liners in the block it would be best to freeze the liners and drop them into a warm block. This I am thinking would allow a perfect bottomed out non interference fit of the liner top. 🤔
The kit car looks great.
I wouldn’t skim the block ‘as is’ because of number one running cooler so it will have been counter bored to the same depth but hasn’t dropped yet?
I'm an hobby mechanic , but I have seen the cylinders frozen before insertion to block maybe the tolerances were not right and allowed for movement 🤔
I want to find a little Amilcar or Salmson prewar cyclecar as my next project .. Swap out the little 1100cc sidevalve jobbie with maybe a datsun A15 and a little eaton supercharger off a merc so its like the hot setup with the Cozette blower.. Not gonna be tremendously quick, but its always something ive wanted to do - smiles per mile
Nice, looks really good. What a transformation!
Kit car looks amazing
The corner should be relieved so it sits down fully? Basic engineering
Building an engine in a lovely north face jacket😮
Nice kitcar, what engine and gearbox has it got? I've got a locost 7 which I built with my dad and brother, based on a escort mk2 and originally had a Ford xflow 1.3 then 1720cc but changed to a c20xe with vauxhall to Ford type 9 Bell housing. I've just put a 3j diff and bigger halfshats in the English axle and had the gearbox rebuilt so I can't wait to get a couple of track days in this year.
We'd leave the sleeve proud by 2 to 4 mils. It would catch the head gasket metal ring better. We would also do a re torque one the head after 3 or 4 full heat cycles. This seemed to resolve a lot of come back issues.
Perhaps on high compression cylinders this method could create other issues.
2-4 mil ? Thats as thick as head gasket, surprised the gasket seated on water and oil ways. Cossie head bolts are stretch/ torque to yield should never need a retorque as can lead to bolt failure.
@@chrisclarke6344 the older cos did not use stretch bolts. I think those stretch bolts cause more problems than are a great solution ( to what problem???)
The raised lip seals the combustion chamber and with a good quality gasket ( not cheaply made) will easily seal water and oil jackets. One of the best things about modern gaskets is the addition of silicon outlines to the water and oil passageways.
@@davidedgar2818 all yb cosworths used stretch bolts, in 4 stages 19 lbft 38 lbft and then two 90°. I cannot see that a 2-4 mill step will let a head gasket seal no matter how much silicon is on it 2-4 mill is 80-160thou that is one hell of a step. The way it was always done was by 'o' ringing the block with 38 thou wire so it was proud of block by approx 15 tho to seal the fire ring. Stretch bolts were a way of allowing alloy heads to expand and contract in relation to block as alloy has a greater expansion rate. I worked on many of these back in the day.
@@chrisclarke6344 maybe in weird European versions but not ALL.
@@davidedgar2818 "wierd european versions" ? All the cosworth engines were assembled by cosworth, left or right hand drive has no bearing on the engine. 5000 rs cosworths with 204 hp were made, for homologation purposes. 500 rs500s for the same purpose, but with different tubo inlet manifold and injectors with picked blocks for thicker cylinder walls these gave 220hp assembled by aston martin for ford. They then made the sapphire in 2wd and 4wd versions, the 4wd used a stronger block the '200' not the '205 /t88' used til then. The '200' had a reworked head and pistons for strength and to stop piston slap. These gave 220hp. They then homologated the escort cosworth 4wd built with a few tweaks in inlet and turbo by karman for ford. Production ceased in 1996. All these engine versions used stretch bolts, being assembled by cosworth for ford. That is from my memory of cosworths. If you know of the era or block numbers of these engines that didnt use them i would be interested to know. That aside that 80- 160 thou step on the liners still needs explaining because for the life of me i cannot see how an engine can seal its head with that step, the head will bottom out on the gasket well before any pressure is applied to the parts of gasket not in the circumference of the liner top.
Kit car front numberplate could do with a resize?
ACK ACK ACK! Some knob head has put the steering wheel on the wrong side!!! LoL
I always thought one would chamfer any sharp edges to prevent cracking and problem's such as this
The channel has grown well
Now on 15 k
Did you notice the two BSP fittings on that oil cooler take off were different sizes?
Have a look @ 8:37 , they look the same to me.
Just a question seeing as its a 205 block, has it got 205 on both sides of block? If not from memory from the deep past it is probably not a true cossie block but a weaker block made for sierras. These blocks were only good for approx 350 hp. The double 205s had different waterways and fire ring sealing surfaces. All cossies going over 350 always had 'o'ringed blocks to prevent blowby on fire rings. As well as long stud kit. Back in the day cossie blocks were only linered when out of rebore tolerances, there were a few converted to wet liners for rally cross but these were rare. I feel you will have fewer head gasket failures if you 'o' ring blocks or liners with .80 mig wire. Just my thoughts on it from what i can remember from when they were current and owners wanted big hp. The true 'holy grail' was the 200 blocks much stronger and heavier. The 205s at big hp were known for block spllitting. A 'picked' block could be bored and stroked to 2.4 l to give around 500hp reliably without stupid boost pressures.
@Chris Lowndes no better way invented yet as far as i know. Simple and does the job, i think a lot of the 'old ways' have been forgotten.
What is the most common denominator in these failures? It seems to me that it happens from the time it leaves your shop and when other hands touch it. Maybe it would be best to take in the whole vehicle and work hand in hand with a tuner to do the start to finish job. Only then can you stand behind it, otherwise it makes no sense to allow others' work to be covered by yourselves.
Not had much to do with liners but wouldn't it be better to press them home and slightly proud the face them the the block?
Takes superb Skills in machine tool use to bore right
Am I the only one who wants to see the "build a bear" kit made.... 😂😉
Next episode Simon 😂
Lol
Why did you go for blue/red pinstripe on the back and blue/black everywhere else?
Perhaps sizing the liner to 0.0001 oversize and stuffing it with dry ice before placing it into the block would fixit.
Awe sorry but ... think the strips look like blue /black insulating tape ... car overall looks cracking and do think you guys are doing a great job ..👍
When the engine is over fueled (petrol) oil is washed from the bores detonation is over boost on a high compression unit tnks
Car looks great, especially with the leccy tape on. 😂
Sounds like a machining nightmare getting the liner seats correct in both shape and depth.
Yes, but I would measure the lip and the counterbore so I knew where I was before I pushed then in. But, I’m a diesel guy, so I know liners like to mess with you :o)
@@teamidris fordson dexta liners with no flange are total b@#$%#$ds as well, heat block in parts washer, cool liners in suitable freezer then push in with press hoping liner doesnt crack. Hatefull things.
@@chrisclarke6344 I hate those jobs. The other one is tractor window glass where there is no frame.
@@teamidris never had the misfortune to do that only worked on tractor engines when they brought to the shop. I bet its a right nightmare tho.
like the looks of the kitcar. Except for the muffler. It's a bit too shiney compared to the rest of the exhaust.
Be sure all the oil and skunge is OUT of the stud hole, then chamfer a bit 'round the stud so the nut sinks deeply enough.
Love the kit car
I had my cosworth engine rebuilt and went the route of ARP stud and nut kit. A few people said I’d have issues and within 500 miles the head gasket had blown. Removed the ARP kit and went with a MLS gasket & standard head bolts and it’s been fine ever since running 32 psi of boost. Have you found the same with the ARP kit?
Stud kits were only any good or needed if they were the long type. 'O' ring the block also stopped head gasket failure.
Camber/Toe in looks out to me. Anyone else notice the Toe in??
Hi I’m currently building a cosworth engine for my car I have never done the valves in a cosworth cylinder head as I’ve always had a single overhead cam pinto turbo is there any specific tools I need to use to put the hydraulic valve buckets and collets in
Set of spring compressors, long nose pliers and tub of grease, and a bit of engine oil.
very nice lookn car . . enjoy
Has he not got some warranty/come back on the guys who did the work?
If the liners have sunk then surely that’s a claim on the company that machined the block and fitted the liners. Why don’t people step bore instead of using flanged liners? The liner then sits on a ledge at the bottom of the bore and the top is under pressure from the head gasket so couple to the interference fit there is no possibility of a liner moving.
What is VET? Or VAT? He keeps saying "plus vet"
'VAT' (Value Added Tax) is a sales tax, currently 20%, that is added to all goods and services in the UK
@@johnroberts6251 Thank you!
Looks a beast, are you going to raffle it....
Love the kit car does your misses watch your utube videos if so we might see you in the next one with black eyes lol
does a cvh have liners
Loved the video quick question In your opinion would the new fuel e10 have anything to do with any of the problems your company are seeing lately? cheers
I would think not the two possible problems i can see from experience is that e10 is a bit like methanol or other alky fuels, the engine itself will have no real problems, apart from alky has lower calorific value so you will need to give it more to avoid detonation and undesirable lean conditions. Modern efi should automatically compensate, on older stuff bigger jets or remap will prevent it. The other issue is the stuff will go off if not used and clog filters jets injectors, possibly also cause degradation to rubber items. So just use it asap (which you will do as engine will need more of the stuff) modern cars will have correct rubber items, older ones may need upgrade. These are my views on subject but maybe more or less. Hope this helps.
I've got an old Frontera 2.0 sport and it really doesn't like the E10. It's not a performance engine but there's a noticeable difference when I've used E10, I avoid E10 in it now.
I'm hoping that electric conversions will come down in price enough to make it worth converting in the future.
@@Falconhunter276 I have had the engine management light on for last 8 months and even with proper diagnostic software the light will NOT stay OFF Yesterday i stuck a bottle of Redex injector cleaner in £4 and put £50 worth of Tesco's momentum 99 and I didn't even start the engine and the engine management light went out.................(best ever i had was 1.8lx Mondeo mk3, 24.7mpg). I went a drive with the family on Valentines day to loch Lomond and put about 130 miles on it and engine management light still out, car starts easier, mpg @ 27mpg and feels and sounds better to drive!!! never seen that it always been worse than even 2.0 engine.
I paid £1.479 per liter (e10) at my local jet garage yesterday I have used this station for years and my engine management light will NOT STAY OFF!!! mk3 Mondeo 1.8 petrol, LAST 8 months light will not stay off but yesterday i put £50 worth of Tesco's momentum 99 and a £4 bottle of redex injector cleaner in and done over 130 miles through Loch Lomond and the car feels, sounds, mpg better than ever, goes smoother quieter and more economical than e10 and engine management light STILL OFF!!!! ~#Cheap diluted 95ron unleaded using all the waste chemicals wow. Revelation added water in your oil due to vapors so servicing becomes MORE ESSENTIAL!!!......FU*KING GREAT GUYS!.
@@MWSRD 27 out of that yikes, my 600hp xfr gives 24 on average. On a run frpm norfolk to dingwall at xmas it gave 38 average. Are you sure you havnt got some other issue than e10?
Bond Buggy orange!
3500 views in two hours!!!!
"I mean if they walked single file through the workshop it'd take longer than that".... "way to go dude"?
Two words you never want to hear are "Oh Dear"
I think it’s age paranoia gets worse that’s why I write everything down when I build a engine and the tightening of stretch bolts I mark after every stage
Can you not pull the liner and shim it
The words you don't want to hear on a Cosworth... "Oh dear"
Its simple enough engine the Cosworth is but its also a sensitive soul it would would seem .
Interesting video but I cant get excited about a two man orange coffin on wheels.
Pay cheap. Pay twice.
I'm just wondering why does it seem you guys work is always coming back to you, idk if I'm getting the whole picture, or if every other video is a warranty, doesn't help your shop is filthy and I have never seen a clean room in your videos.
Thanks for watching anyway 👍
So am i misreading the situation, if so you still should adopt a clean room it would look more professional but still very knowledgeable guys.
A spotless workshop is a workshop that is not busy. So long as parts are clean during assembly no problems.
Looks alright considering it’s a busy machine shop doing automotive stuff. It’s dirty work.
Is it rubbish mapping and shit loads of boost killing these motors ?
A good chance the old ways with regard to these motors appears to have been forgotten. See my post above.
It seem most of your videos are problem engines or customers, it doesn’t fill me with confidence for you to facilitate a repair to my car, maybe some videos of productive builds will help your channel?
If engines didn't break down or other garages bodge them he would be out of business, I also have to deal with the public for my work, believe me some people will pull every stunt in the book. Because basically nobody wants to pay and their looking for something for nothing.
I was just thinking the same... Must do plenty or run of the mill stuff to pay the bills... That said, there are shysters on both sides of the counter....
Option one.
Drop a 2.3 lima in it, no more problems
‘Non school uniform’ 😁
Only you could call bright orange 'subtle'? 😂 or was it just the stripes?
Torque plate it, heat the block then measure and machine it can't go wrong unless
Using your best clothes lmao sounds like me
This seems to be a drama/complaints channel. Best of luck with the drama/complaint format, it seems to have worked well for "Titans of CNC".
That's why all engine rebuilds should be handled by Cosworth.
So someone who built the works Cosworth engines in Ford Cosworths can’t do it even though Ford paid the company too ?
Mong
@@chiefrocka8604 I used to work for Rolls Royce in the design department of the aero engines division,could I claim to perform competent work on a Trent?,not outwits Rolls Royce's facility no!,twat.
AFAIK Cosworth don't build these engines anymore. It's aftermarket companies only now.
The block is toast. You'll never recover the strength in the material where is blew on number four. It will have been tempered and will remain soft.
What?
@@MJTAUTOMOTIVE indeed the block will never get hot enough to do that to cast iron. If it does approx 1500° you have a more pressing problem than 'tempering' a little bit of the block
Looked like a Ford 2.3 block...
Unfortunately not its got 205 on the block, a 2.3 lima would solve the problem apart from the fact that nothing from a 205 will fit the lima, been there.
Well my first question is why didn’t he go back to the machine shop he had the work done at fitting those liners ? Secondly why didn’t he have them build the engine instead of half arsing it big herd bit there crap 💩 thirdly why didnt he come to you to start with now he’s racking up another £1,000 plus 💵. More money that sense some people if you ask me if you have that d set org of engine then get yourselves to build it from scratch then if someone methinv does h go o wrong 😑 it will be sorted out
Hello. Notice that Ford is popular in the UK. Is that right? I have MK4 Ford mondeo 2012. Ford is a strange brand.
Ford has too many cheap solutions! Take my Mondeo mk4 which is a good car but it has too many cheap and not the most elegant solutions to a little too many things.
Many say that ford is like that.
Seen liners dropped before from bad machinists boring too low allowing the liners to drop. Always use a machinist who knows what they're doing
tried to get hold of you through e mail with no responce
Sorry Sam, have you tried calling our work number? We try to go through and answer all emails, extremely busy atm, much apologies
Regards
Lee
Customer should've got a Honda engine instead.
Hi DC can you turbo a 2ltr honda redtop vvt without problems ??