Glad to see U rolling again, Collin This is something totally new in this part of the world. Never seen or knew what "Line Boring" 'twas all about . And like the man sayeth - "'twas definitely not Boring at all" - definitely U have some ingenious ideas Collin. Thanks a stack and Keep 'em coming aRM
+aR M So no heavy equipment in your area? Line bore is commonly used in equipment repair. I've just never done it and want to add the service to my shop. There's more to this setup and hope to get some additional footage soon. Thanks for the comment! Colin :-)
Good job. I built one just like that 20 years ago. It is still in operation. Your mounts are much better than mine. Mine were made of any scrap I could find on the job site. It worked though perfectly though. Done a lot of buckets, grapples etc for the logging industry over the years.
pretty dang cool there colin very good idea with the line boring tool. im looking at my mag drill a little differently now lol. thanks for sharing that inovative idea with us.
+Shadon HKW Thanks Stan. The setting tool may have been eclipsed by an idea from Paul Compton with the micrometer head....have to get at that one soon. :-)
+Ken Wolfe Thanks Ken...in full disclosure though I saw the idea while researching commercial boring units. I had planned to just buy a unit at first but could not find one with small enough capacity for the mini-tractors so decided to make one. :-)
Very good job I am very interested and I have learned many thanks for sharing is what I was looking for I have a mag drill and I needed to do a borin line with the mag thank you very much for sharing
Don't get too crazy copying it yet. I found some areas to improve and did so. I will try to document in a video soon. The newer edition is much better. :-)
I did that untill someone walked by and tripped over the plug end and everything came crashing down! So I took the magnet off installed insulated spade connectors and added a few feet of wire enough to get magnet out of the way safely. Then cut a 1" plate to put in the magnets place bolting it to the drill motor. Even a power bump and it will fall. And by lengthening the wires it still ran. Was a newer drill with circuit board in it. Good luck! Nice work.
Nice set up. Got a question(s). What do you do when you have an egged out hole(i.e., re-locate the hole). How do you adjust for that. Also, after you grind your weld off those bearing legs do you have to take a squaring cut on the 4 legs to make them all even height again ?
Gidday Shagger, about to mount a fly cutter on mine and i thought i'll have a look on You Tube if any one else has done this. The only thing I'd change on yours is the steel base the mag base mounts onto. I'd go 1 inch thick, thicker it is the stronger it hangs on. nice work though.
Colin, Thanks for the "boring" video! (lol) That's a pretty clever setup you have. You need a boring machine like Abom79 uses in his videos. Thanks again, and great to hear from you. Have a good one! Dave
+Swarf Rat Hey, I want a small boring mill in the worst way...love Bruce Whithams...more my size. Still wouldn't do much with some of the heavy equipment that has to be done on-site...portable line bore works well. Thanks. :-)
A video! Yay! I like your "depth" setter. (Not sure of the correct term) It's very simple. I want to build one for my line boring rig, but I was trying to make it too complicated. I have to add I'm disappointed, though, I was looking forward to the explosion! ;)
+Wide Vision Metal Fab Thanks Matt. I suppose I could have cranked in a huge cut and forced it through...LOL The setting tool is nice for such a small bar. Probably not necessary for a larger one as you can use a set-screw to push the toolbit.
Hey Colin, I would suggest that you put elongated slots for your bearing mounts and add 2 all threaded screws to push the bearing blocks that you could use to fine tune your bar position. This is fine if you just need a good hole, but I think it would be hard to get accurate position of that hole if it was needed with this setup. Works plenty good for what you did with it though, glad you aren't stuck in an RV somewhere!
+bcbloc02 Hey Colin, great video...! Agree with Brian, would be good to slot the bearing mounts so you can fiddle with the alignment of the bar, given your probably dealing with wallowed out holes to start with... Excellent setup... Cheers, Daniel
+bcbloc02 I had seen that on one of the kits I was viewing and planned to add it at some point...great idea. A few other changes are pending as well! No worries...RVs are soon on the menu again..:-)
I like it, my old tractor needs a lot of the fittings line bored and all new bushings installed, I may never see that day, but I can see how my mag drill and boring bar can do it now.
+Ed Ginsberg If you have the power source the remainder isn't hard or expensive. The square broach is a little pricey but way cheaper than a factory built unit. Thanks :-)
Hello Mate, try this company : Sturdy Broaching co, Warren, MI. www.sturdybroaching.com/contact-us-2. The only thing I would worry about is the "Tweeking", or movement of the bar, to put it out of round, after they were welded in. I have seen others use a round hole, then drill & tap a threaded hole 90 degrees to it. Put square tool bit in, clamp down with set screw. BTW, make sure you remove the cup point on the end of the set screw, or the set screw will always fall into that same place on the tool bit. Your thoughts ?
+Richard Schmidtendorff Yes, a dial indicator and magbase would work quite nice as well. Did just that when I tried a longer toolbit. Trying to get part 2 recorded now and have made some changes to the whole affair. Thanks for commenting.. :-)
That will be good for repairing buckets and other implements in the field. Knuckle bushings as well. I guess you can make A/C power for the mag drill off a generator or a welder if you are set up for that. Nice job, and a good design for working on smaller equipment like your little backhoe.
+Bob Korves This one was purpose built for the smaller equipment. I know of several now that need work and hope to get it into operation soon. 120V power make portable use easy as a side benefit. Cheers :-)
+CompEdgeX That was my guess. It looks perfect for that size equipment. It is a good thing to be able to go to the customer as well as letting him come to you. Usually more money in it as well...
Very interesting video. The setup ingenious. I hope you will show the actual job when you get that far. This would allow "in the field" work and with really good results. What is the diameter of the axle/boring bar? It would also be nice to see how you drilled and broached the bar, adding set screw (I assume). Very nice solution for adjusting the cutting tool. Thanks for sharing. Well done video, too!
+Jim Milne Thanks Jim. This whole exercise is to prepare myself to offer a service that is not available in this area. This unit is meant to be a lightweight rig designed to re-bore smaller bores found on mini-excavators and the like. Bar size is .875" (7/8"). I have taken test cuts with it up to and including 2.4" today. Above 2" it starts to flex but it was never intended to go that big. I'm making a larger bar for that. I had planned to record some of the fabrication but the broach tool was borrowed and needed to get it done and returned. I made a large improvement today that I will touch on in the next video. :-)
on yer setting tool, its possible to get "micrometer heads" just the threaded bit with the thimble and barrel so you can mount that and use it to adjust the cutting tool.
+Tom Zelickman (Inspiration Metalworks) Hi Tom. This was just as described...a test run to check design. I have a short list of additions and changes for it and will work on it between jobs in the next while. Thanks :-)
Great tool Colin! One thing I'm wondering is how you're going to measure your bore. I guess when you have a line boring job you need to fit something pretty precisely in there, and this something is probably pre-made like a bearing or a repair bushing.
+Sergey Gromov Sorry I missed this comment.. Yes the bore is generally done precise but often the bore is only machined to a round condition again and the sleeve made to fit the hole. In this case precise measure is not necessary until ready to fit the bushing. In cases where accuracy is needed it is quite easy to remove the bar to fit a snap gage or other bore measure tool. Colin :-)
Hi Colin, Welcome back! Your new tool works great. What kind of stock did you use for the boring bar? Since the straightness and stiffness of the bar are clearly important considerations, is ordinary cold rolled 1018 straight (and strong) enough, or did you use something else? Looking forward to more videos. Best, -Chris
+bx2200 Thanks Chris. The bar material is 1045 ground shafting. It offers dimensional accuracy and higher strength over cold rolled. Chromed would have been nicer but none available at the time.
+pierre beaudry A little more work to be done on it yet but come tractor season it'll be ready to go. I have people wanting to rent it already.... Cheers..:-)
have you considered making the standoff legs on the bearing blocks removable? it would not only save wear the tool itself but i believe it would make getting the stand offs off the part easier as you could just snap them off the opposite direction they were welded then just grind smooth. would think it would be a pretty easy modification but it looks good either way
+andrew mac I had thought of some flat bars with a series of holes attached to the frame with complimentary disposable pieces to weld to the job. Today just wanted to do some type of test on it...have plenty of changes to make after watching the video myself. Thanks
good work Colin ! ive been researching on building me a rig like this ...i haven't run into the need yet to have to use it but i have many customers with heavy equipment so its a matter of time im sure lol..... did you put the angle of the bit on 45 degrees ? i see where alot of them are .......the thing about this is you have to have a bunch of different bars for different size holes lol ......i guess bearing assembly's too......ah more projects ...........Eric in Kentucky.........
+eric chilton I already have more material for a larger bar...but need a more powerful source motor for the bigger bar. Biggest bores I expect to see here would be around 4" I suspect. There's probably no end to the project! thanks :-)
+Bob Korves The toolbit in the video had a neutral rake so that might work nicely. I had another ground with positive rake but didnt test it. I also didnt try any heavier than the .025" DOC (.050" diameter) as shown in the video. I noticed some things I wanted to change so the video was cut short. More to come on this project. :-)
looks good only thing i would say is 3 legs are better than 4 as they will not rock. when i do set up we just use 3 legs got a hole box full of stand off's. only other thing is give them a little angle out or in but all the same way . think of a tri-pod.keep up the good work
Ya, I can see that. Will keep it in mind for some setups for sure. Havent done much to continue this project lately but do plan to add more to it. Colin :-)
Loved your video! We have a small shop with a New Holland TV140 bi directional tractor with a bad articulation pin. We have a Hougen mag drill and would like to build your boring bar. Any chance you have drawings, sketch, plans etc ?
Sorry Tom...for the delay in answering and the lack of info. I built this from my head as is customary for me. Changes have been made since this video. Will try to document it into a video soon. Thanks :)
+wheeltapper1 Well, not necessarily. You can use a spring caliper to gage the inside bore. Even taking the bar out on a small rig like this is no big deal. Thanks for commenting.. :-)
@@CompEdgeX2013 thanks for the response, what depth of cut were you taking here? i need to figure out how to open up a 100mm hole to four inches ensitu on an injection molding machine
Tool height can also be easily set using a dial indicator (more accurate anyway). Using the tool is great for quick adjustment while roughing. The bar I made myself using some 1045 ground shafting. quite easy once you have the needed square broach. A fellow machinist was nice enough to lend me one for this experiment. :-) I have made some changes to this setup and hope to document it in a future video.
***** Hmmm perhaps two pieces of flat steel with a pivot point with degrees. Lay one flat on the bar lift other bar up (must have a sharp point_ until it reaches the determined height of finish bore- or to measure cutter height. Kind of like a carpenter's bevel square in design but small and modified. I am not a machinist but a 35 year carpenter...
***** As you said it is not the rough cut- but the final cut. So once you reach the predetermined height you're done. You only have to measure once this way. Set modified bevel square on bar and slide towards bore if it does not fit in your not there.. Must have a very sharp point with 100 degree back cut bottom angle. And can be used to measure tool height fast. Same thing- slide to cutter height --if cutter height has not reach that point you're not there yet... We call that a cheat stick..
***** the hard part is the math to set up cheater.But once set and securely tightened no more measuring. Ok i am done -- like your video-- as with all videos-- they make us think and learn. Keep them coming---
A preset gage will in theory work. What it lacks however is the ability to monitor tool pressure during the cuts... whats dialed in as compared to whats actually cut. There is always spring in the tool and knowing how to allow for it is a big part of cutting metal. You'll hear the term "spring cut" or "spring pass" quite often. Dependant on material you can dial in a .050" cut but only remove .045". Monitoring this as the final size approaches is what makes a good fit or an oops!! :-)
Told you that you could build it' I really like your tool setter also' looks nice' Now that you proved you can build one you will make larger ones' and Improve on design'
+Jacob Boehnke Thanks Jacob. I already have the 1.5" material for a larger bar. It will require a stronger power source though. Will finish the small bar setup first and work on pieces for the bigger unit. :-)
You can buy a power feed for a mill and adapt it to your mag drill handle and have power feed. I'm working on mine now if you'd like contact me and I'll send you some videos of it at work
+Amateur Redneck Workshop Harold that's a rarely seen part of a tractor called a "junk plate". It's located right next to the steering nut... LOL Thanks :-)
Sweet and simple design. Elegant solution and use of existing equipment.
I'm going to use this idea one day.
Thanks for posting.
+TJ Clark Thanks TJ. Wait for part 2 before you start building one...there were some changes made lately! :-) Thanks for the comment. Colin
Glad to see U rolling again, Collin
This is something totally new in this part of the world. Never seen or knew what "Line Boring" 'twas all about .
And like the man sayeth - "'twas definitely not Boring at all" - definitely
U have some ingenious ideas Collin.
Thanks a stack and
Keep 'em coming
aRM
+aR M So no heavy equipment in your area? Line bore is commonly used in equipment repair. I've just never done it and want to add the service to my shop. There's more to this setup and hope to get some additional footage soon.
Thanks for the comment! Colin :-)
Good to see you back on line Colin. Great video as always.
+jay dee Thanks, nice to record video again. :-)
Good job. I built one just like that 20 years ago. It is still in operation. Your mounts are much better than mine. Mine were made of any scrap I could find on the job site. It worked though perfectly though. Done a lot of buckets, grapples etc for the logging industry over the years.
Thanks. I have made some changes since the first try and at some point I'll do a video about it. :-)
Great setup. I have been thinking of doing a setup with mag drill. Thank you for sharing.
me too
pretty dang cool there colin very good idea with the line boring tool. im looking at my mag drill a little differently now lol.
thanks for sharing that inovative idea with us.
+Jamie Buckley Keep looking for a little bit...I made changes...now to get it recorded to share is the hard part.. :-)
Looks great Colin, clever tool for advancing the tool bit. Nice to see you back on the air.
+Shadon HKW Thanks Stan. The setting tool may have been eclipsed by an idea from
Paul Compton with the micrometer head....have to get at that one soon. :-)
Very nice, I like. One of the most simple small setups I have see.
Thanks, I have made changes since and will document sometime.. :-)
good set up
bonjour Colin, très bonne réalisation, le résultat est impeccable, vraiment bon boulot ,bonne continuation ... cordialement thy.👏
Great video and tool build!...hope you can find the time for more uploads as I always enjoy the visit with you!
+outsidescrewball Thanks Chuck... hoping to get a couple more vids on this project. :-)
Love the bit adjustment tool. Great video!
+Ken Wolfe Thanks Ken...in full disclosure though I saw the idea while researching commercial boring units. I had planned to just buy a unit at first but could not find one with small enough capacity for the mini-tractors so decided to make one. :-)
Gday Colin, this works great and not expensive to build, new sub here, Cheers
Very good job I am very interested and I have learned many thanks for sharing is what I was looking for I have a mag drill and I needed to do a borin line with the mag thank you very much for sharing
Good to see you back and nice job on the tooling
+allan mitchell Thanks Allan. More to come on this project. :-)
Nicely done Colin. I like the tool bit indexing jig as well.
+Fred Miller Thanks Fred. :-)
Pretty ingenious setup there Colin, good job
+Brian Stanga Thanks Brian. Hope to do a real job with it in the near future. :-)
Hi colin, Cool line bore set up. Nice to see you.Thanks M.K.S.
+Kelly Sampson Hey Kelly. Thanks for dropping by. Gloves are still going btw.. :-)
Nice tool. Well done Colin!
+Michael Murray Thanks Mike. More coming on this one. :-)
good to see you again Colin, as usual a cool video
+Darren Blattner Thanks Darren. :-)
Great to see you back Colin.
+Mark Russell Thanks Mark. :-)
@3:50, that scared the crap out of me. You throw a switch, open a valve and instantly a bunch of sparks fly!!! Welcome back, Colin.
+JRoque250 I wish ALL the welding was that quick...especially after the last couple weeks! :-)
always enjoy your videos.
Thanks Jeff. I enjoy making them and hope to get more done soon. Colin :-)
Thanks, been looking for a simple design and that's about as simple as you can get. Now if got an extra excuse to buy a Mag drill!
Thanks. I have made some changes since that first idea but have yet to do a video to show the new setup...stay tuned.. :)
that is a nice set up. I will have to copy your ideas. thanks for sharing
Don't get too crazy copying it yet. I found some areas to improve and did so. I will try to document in a video soon. The newer edition is much better. :-)
very nice job! you have a great channel I hope you keep it going
Thank you very much. I hope to get more material along the same lines uploaded soon. :-)
Great set up, very neat.
+Simon Crabb Thanks Simon. :-)
Great video as usual. You left me wondering just what part of a tractor that is. Very clever little tool bit setting device. Thanks for the video.
Nice to see you again. Good set up you've got there. A tweak or two and you'll be in business.
+Duncan “DunMac” Mac The tweaks have already been noted and worked on in the next while. Try to record most of it if I can. Thanks :-)
Always fancied one of those boring set ups, got no use for it but doesn't stop me wanting one.
+Chris Stephens Have you priced new ones? You'd have even less use for it then..LOL
No fun in buying, great fun in making. If only I had a need. :>)
Chris Stephens
Agreed, I like to make stuff when I can..cheaper AND more fun! :-)
" If you can't afford, buy, or get, make", should be the home shop mantra
Welcome back good video
+pancho villa Thank you PanchoV :-)
Nice tool, thanks for sharing.
+rchopp Thanks for the visit! :-)
I did that untill someone walked by and tripped over the plug end and everything came crashing down! So I took the magnet off installed insulated spade connectors and added a few feet of wire enough to get magnet out of the way safely. Then cut a 1" plate to put in the magnets place bolting it to the drill motor. Even a power bump and it will fall. And by lengthening the wires it still ran. Was a newer drill with circuit board in it. Good luck! Nice work.
Nice new machine. Like it.
+Randy Richard Thanks Randy...How's the pins in that JD?? :-)
nice, I like how you can srill use your mag drill for a mag drill when not line boring
Funny thing is that I wanted another use for it besides being a "drill" :-)
Good video. Thanks.
Nice set up. Got a question(s). What do you do when you have an egged out hole(i.e., re-locate the hole). How do you adjust for that. Also, after you grind your weld off those bearing legs do you have to take a squaring cut on the 4 legs to make them all even height again ?
Gidday Shagger, about to mount a fly cutter on mine and i thought i'll have a look on You Tube if any one else has done this. The only thing I'd change on yours is the steel base the mag base mounts onto. I'd go 1 inch thick, thicker it is the stronger it hangs on. nice work though.
very interesting I once own a inline boring head for doing , lorry calendars I think I still have the micrometre that mad the fine adjustments .
Colin,
Thanks for the "boring" video! (lol) That's a pretty clever setup you have. You need a boring machine like Abom79 uses in his videos. Thanks again, and great to hear from you.
Have a good one!
Dave
+Swarf Rat Hey, I want a small boring mill in the worst way...love Bruce Whithams...more my size. Still wouldn't do much with some of the heavy equipment that has to be done on-site...portable line bore works well. Thanks. :-)
Yeah, that boring mill that Bruce has is a nice unit. Maybe one will turn up.
A video! Yay! I like your "depth" setter. (Not sure of the correct term) It's very simple. I want to build one for my line boring rig, but I was trying to make it too complicated. I have to add I'm disappointed, though, I was looking forward to the explosion! ;)
+Wide Vision Metal Fab Thanks Matt. I suppose I could have cranked in a huge cut and forced it through...LOL
The setting tool is nice for such a small bar. Probably not necessary for a larger one as you can use a set-screw to push the toolbit.
Thank you very much sir for this video
Worked great.
+Carter W Hern Thanks Carter. :-)
Welcome back Colin.
+Cuppa Joe Thanks. Nice to do a video again. :-)
Hey Colin, I would suggest that you put elongated slots for your bearing mounts and add 2 all threaded screws to push the bearing blocks that you could use to fine tune your bar position. This is fine if you just need a good hole, but I think it would be hard to get accurate position of that hole if it was needed with this setup. Works plenty good for what you did with it though, glad you aren't stuck in an RV somewhere!
+bcbloc02 Hey Colin, great video...! Agree with Brian, would be good to slot the bearing mounts so you can fiddle with the alignment of the bar, given your probably dealing with wallowed out holes to start with... Excellent setup... Cheers, Daniel
+bcbloc02 I had seen that on one of the kits I was viewing and planned to add it at some point...great idea. A few other changes are pending as well!
No worries...RVs are soon on the menu again..:-)
+Daniel Werger Agreed...one of a few changes coming! Thanks :-)
Looks good Colin, hope you find lots of work for it...
+40cleco There are tons of mini-tractors around here...many needing work. There will be lots of use for it for sure. Thanks :-)
Watching from Qatar
Awesome
I like it, my old tractor needs a lot of the fittings line bored and all new bushings installed, I may never see that day, but I can see how my mag drill and boring bar can do it now.
+Ed Ginsberg If you have the power source the remainder isn't hard or expensive. The square broach is a little pricey but way cheaper than a factory built unit. Thanks :-)
+CompEdgeX don't they make a round insert with a square internals. tried to find them on McMaster Carr but not sure what they would be called
Ed Ginsberg
Keith Fenner referred to those in a vid some time back. "Toolbit holder" from MSC??
Hello Mate, try this company : Sturdy Broaching co, Warren, MI. www.sturdybroaching.com/contact-us-2. The only thing I would worry about is the "Tweeking", or movement of the bar, to put it out of round, after they were welded in. I have seen others use a round hole, then drill & tap a threaded hole 90 degrees to it. Put square tool bit in, clamp down with set screw. BTW, make sure you remove the cup point on the end of the set screw, or the set screw will always fall into that same place on the tool bit. Your thoughts ?
You can easily adapt a plunger dial indicator to your adjust tool, and the finish you got just hand feeding was nice.
+Richard Schmidtendorff Yes, a dial indicator and magbase would work quite nice as well. Did just that when I tried a longer toolbit. Trying to get part 2 recorded now and have made some changes to the whole affair. Thanks for commenting.. :-)
That will be good for repairing buckets and other implements in the field. Knuckle bushings as well. I guess you can make A/C power for the mag drill off a generator or a welder if you are set up for that. Nice job, and a good design for working on smaller equipment like your little backhoe.
+Bob Korves This one was purpose built for the smaller equipment. I know of several now that need work and hope to get it into operation soon. 120V power make portable use easy as a side benefit. Cheers :-)
+CompEdgeX That was my guess. It looks perfect for that size equipment. It is a good thing to be able to go to the customer as well as letting him come to you. Usually more money in it as well...
*****
Yup. I am going to test the limit of the 7/8" bar by making an extended toolbit holder. I'd like to see if it can do 1.5".. :-)
Awesome job Colin! Looks like its working perfectly!
+jjs4x I figure it went ok for a test run. Never tried a line bore rig before so there's lots to learn. Hope to get it in a real life job soon. Thanks
Very interesting video. The setup ingenious. I hope you will show the actual job when you get that far. This would allow "in the field" work and with really good results. What is the diameter of the axle/boring bar? It would also be nice to see how you drilled and broached the bar, adding set screw (I assume). Very nice solution for adjusting the cutting tool. Thanks for sharing. Well done video, too!
+Jim Milne Thanks Jim. This whole exercise is to prepare myself to offer a service that is not available in this area. This unit is meant to be a lightweight rig designed to re-bore smaller bores found on mini-excavators and the like. Bar size is .875" (7/8"). I have taken test cuts with it up to and including 2.4" today. Above 2" it starts to flex but it was never intended to go that big. I'm making a larger bar for that.
I had planned to record some of the fabrication but the broach tool was borrowed and needed to get it done and returned.
I made a large improvement today that I will touch on in the next video. :-)
No need for square holes in the boring bar. I built mine 20 years ago and it has round holes for the tool bit. Works fine
on yer setting tool, its possible to get "micrometer heads" just the threaded bit with the thimble and barrel so you can mount that and use it to adjust the cutting tool.
Nice to see you post a video again, Colin! Pretty cool setup you put together as well. Have you taken it out into the field yet?
Best wishes,
Tom Z
+Tom Zelickman (Inspiration Metalworks) Hi Tom. This was just as described...a test run to check design. I have a short list of additions and changes for it and will work on it between jobs in the next while. Thanks :-)
good video nice set up
+bad bourbon bob Thanks Bob. I have made some changes as well and will try to document in a future video. Colin :-)
Nice for milling in the field thanks enjoyed
+Tom Bellus Made a few changes...still not re-tested. Never enough time. Trying to record the next session as well. Cheers, Colin :-)
Great tool Colin!
One thing I'm wondering is how you're going to measure your bore. I guess when you have a line boring job you need to fit something pretty precisely in there, and this something is probably pre-made like a bearing or a repair bushing.
+Sergey Gromov Sorry I missed this comment.. Yes the bore is generally done precise but often the bore is only machined to a round condition again and the sleeve made to fit the hole. In this case precise measure is not necessary until ready to fit the bushing.
In cases where accuracy is needed it is quite easy to remove the bar to fit a snap gage or other bore measure tool.
Colin :-)
Any videos for that adjustment clamp you made?
what is that boring bar od... is it friendly with heavy cuts.
Hi Colin, Welcome back! Your new tool works great. What kind of stock did you use for the boring bar? Since the straightness and stiffness of the bar are clearly important considerations, is ordinary cold rolled 1018 straight (and strong) enough, or did you use something else? Looking forward to more videos. Best, -Chris
+bx2200 Thanks Chris. The bar material is 1045 ground shafting. It offers dimensional accuracy and higher strength over cold rolled. Chromed would have been nicer but none available at the time.
Nice setup Colin!
How about a micrometer head so you can set the cutter radius direct like they do for engine boring.
+Paul Compton That would be pretty cool...Now you've given me an idea for the old Starrett I have...thanks!
Simple enough, and it seems to get the job done great, also easy to carry and install in the field if needed... ;)
+pierre beaudry A little more work to be done on it yet but come tractor season it'll be ready to go. I have people wanting to rent it already.... Cheers..:-)
+CompEdgeX It is not too ponderous to carry along and the mag drill is useful for other work.
*****
Actually the boring unit was the primary reason for the magdrill...fact that it can also drill holes just is a bonus..LOL
Well done
have you considered making the standoff legs on the bearing blocks removable? it would not only save wear the tool itself but i believe it would make getting the stand offs off the part easier as you could just snap them off the opposite direction they were welded then just grind smooth. would think it would be a pretty easy modification but it looks good either way
+andrew mac I had thought of some flat bars with a series of holes attached to the frame with complimentary disposable pieces to weld to the job. Today just wanted to do some type of test on it...have plenty of changes to make after watching the video myself. Thanks
good work Colin ! ive been researching on building me a rig like this ...i haven't run into the need yet to have to use it but i have many customers with heavy equipment so its a matter of time im sure lol..... did you put the angle of the bit on 45 degrees ? i see where alot of them are .......the thing about this is you have to have a bunch of different bars for different size holes lol ......i guess bearing assembly's too......ah more projects ...........Eric in Kentucky.........
+eric chilton I already have more material for a larger bar...but need a more powerful source motor for the bigger bar. Biggest bores I expect to see here would be around 4" I suspect. There's probably no end to the project! thanks :-)
eric chilton på
Have you tried using it on the pull stroke of the mag drill? I wonder if that might make a smoother cut, especially heavier cuts.
+Bob Korves The toolbit in the video had a neutral rake so that might work nicely. I had another ground with positive rake but didnt test it. I also didnt try any heavier than the .025" DOC (.050" diameter) as shown in the video. I noticed some things I wanted to change so the video was cut short. More to come on this project. :-)
looks good only thing i would say is 3 legs are better than 4 as they will not rock. when i do set up we just use 3 legs got a hole box full of stand off's. only other thing is give them a little angle out or in but all the same way . think of a tri-pod.keep up the good work
Ya, I can see that. Will keep it in mind for some setups for sure. Havent done much to continue this project lately but do plan to add more to it. Colin :-)
Great video Colin, I did not find it boring at all....!
+Cruiser Mac So yer saying it didn't work? lol
Nope, I even watched it twice in case I missed something the first time!
Loved your video! We have a small shop with a New Holland TV140 bi directional tractor with a bad articulation pin. We have a Hougen mag drill and would like to build your boring bar. Any chance you have drawings, sketch, plans etc ?
Sorry Tom...for the delay in answering and the lack of info. I built this from my head as is customary for me. Changes have been made since this video. Will try to document it into a video soon. Thanks :)
Good job
+Jody Mc Millian Thanks :-)
Simple 😎 nicee
Great ideals man way to go, might need two patches for right hand fingers, gloves look little thin. lol
+Mert Silliker Those poor gloves are down to about a half hour's work time left...lol Thanks. :-)
They owe you nothing lol
How about of the welding iner face . Any ideas...definitely no by hand ...
kaha par milega line boring machine
And between shaft and flanged bearing need bushing or not?
No bushing. The bar rides on the 2 flanged bearings.
hi..good jib..where did you get the centering cones? and how did you make the square holes in the bar?
The cones were made here. The bar was made using a square broach kindly lent from a fellow machinist. Easy with the right tools! :-)
thank you for reply..i must try and get one made up..
CompEdgeX could you do a video of broaching. ?
It's a nice idea, the only problem I can see is that you have to take the whole thing apart to measure the bore size.
+wheeltapper1 Well, not necessarily. You can use a spring caliper to gage the inside bore. Even taking the bar out on a small rig like this is no big deal. Thanks for commenting.. :-)
Smart!!!!
+Ralf Gottfrid Hansson Thanks, not a new idea, but my interpretation of the process. :-)
what wattage is this drill? think it would be capable of a 4inch boring cut?
Label says 6A @ 450 RPM...I dont think she'd do big holes. The main idea was to use it for small excavator bore say around 30MM.
@@CompEdgeX2013 thanks for the response, what depth of cut were you taking here? i need to figure out how to open up a 100mm hole to four inches ensitu on an injection molding machine
@@poozandweeez Oh man, that was a while ago...if I remember correctly I was just taking a quarter turn on the adjuster...so .025" on the diam..
Very clever i have been wondering how to do this for a long time. There must be a better way to measure the tool height. Where did the bar come from?
Tool height can also be easily set using a dial indicator (more accurate anyway). Using the tool is great for quick adjustment while roughing.
The bar I made myself using some 1045 ground shafting. quite easy once you have the needed square broach. A fellow machinist was nice enough to lend me one for this experiment. :-)
I have made some changes to this setup and hope to document it in a future video.
***** Hmmm perhaps two pieces of flat steel with a pivot point with degrees. Lay one flat on the bar lift other bar up (must have a sharp point_ until it reaches the determined height of finish bore- or to measure cutter height. Kind of like a carpenter's bevel square in design but small and modified. I am not a machinist but a 35 year carpenter...
***** As you said it is not the rough cut- but the final cut. So once you reach the predetermined height you're done. You only have to measure once this way. Set modified bevel square on bar and slide towards bore if it does not fit in your not there.. Must have a very sharp point with 100 degree back cut bottom angle. And can be used to measure tool height fast. Same thing- slide to cutter height --if cutter height has not reach that point you're not there yet... We call that a cheat stick..
***** the hard part is the math to set up cheater.But once set and securely tightened no more measuring. Ok i am done -- like your video-- as with all videos-- they make us think and learn. Keep them coming---
A preset gage will in theory work. What it lacks however is the ability to monitor tool pressure during the cuts... whats dialed in as compared to whats actually cut. There is always spring in the tool and knowing how to allow for it is a big part of cutting metal. You'll hear the term "spring cut" or "spring pass" quite often. Dependant on material you can dial in a .050" cut but only remove .045". Monitoring this as the final size approaches is what makes a good fit or an oops!! :-)
Told you that you could build it' I really like your tool setter also' looks nice' Now that you proved you can build one you will make larger ones' and Improve on design'
+Jacob Boehnke Thanks Jacob. I already have the 1.5" material for a larger bar. It will require a stronger power source though. Will finish the small bar setup first and work on pieces for the bigger unit. :-)
Holy cow it's Colin
+Chad Prince Yup, finally allowed out to play.. :-)
What type of motor ? Please you cn tell me sir
The drill unit is a Unibore magdrill. Runs @450 RPM...unsure of the HP.
👏👏👏👍🇮🇷🇮🇷🇮🇷💗
I Ike that this was about a subject I knew nothing about.
Well, that makes two of us.. LOL I'm learning as I go. Colin :-)
That is the coolest welding jacket I've ever seen!! what brand is it? and thanks for the teachings i now can afford to line bore :)
You can buy a power feed for a mill and adapt it to your mag drill handle and have power feed. I'm working on mine now if you'd like contact me and I'll send you some videos of it at work
Great video as usual. You left me wondering just what part of a tractor that is. Very clever little tool bit setting device. Thanks for the video.
+Amateur Redneck Workshop Harold that's a rarely seen part of a tractor called a "junk plate". It's located right next to the steering nut... LOL Thanks :-)