Use the long-term code "DaveB300K" for 5% off for the B300K series: shrsl.com/4oqep Shop the B300K on Amazon: amzn.to/3B7alW3 See more projects and get my FREE Solar Financial Calculator on my website ProjectsWithDave.com: projectswithdave.com/
I'm a big fan of power stations, but these expansion batteries are stupid expensive for what you get. This B300k holds the equivalent of a couple of 12v batteries, roughly, and costs what 6 Lifepo4 batteries would cost. I have an AC200max and use 3, 12v batteries in parallel to expand the capacity to 5kw for the system. It only works at low amp draw because the batteries only "charge" the Bluetti at 120 watts or so, That works fine for me because use it to run 3 chest freezers in my barn. The B300k looks like it could be a good addition to a home backup situation, but to get ay really usable Kwh, you'll need $5k worth of Bluetti products. I agree with virtually everyone on those Bluetti cords. UA-camrs have been complaining about them from the day they came out and Bluetti continues to ignore the issue. It literally doubles the space needed to house the system. I know some newer companies have connectors with 90s, so maybe Bluetti will figure it out.
These all-in-one power stations are for those who don't want to get into the DIY space. Sounds like you are ok with that so you might be better off building the whole system instead of just trying to expand with your own batteries. You can get your own inverter and charger and utilize your batteries more effectively like this simple DIY system: ua-cam.com/video/OwfGLu8IY_M/v-deo.html
I have all of that and have built a couple of small DIY systems. The beauty of the power stations for me is portability. We have a hurricane with the path coming directly over our area tonight and tomorrow, so all my preparation will probably get tested. The dual-fuel generator is still my best option.@ProjectsWithDave
you mentioned the port form USB-a to C. it is a cost of something like 10 or 14 bucks more just for the port. then for the electronics. it is another 30 some bucks for the Cert and the chips to do that. space would be the same. you could say not much more. but it really is. the IEEE or group that runs USB they want a premium for USB-C.
A 240V water heater doesn’t have to be converted to heat sink 120V. It simply draws half the amperage and heats slowly. A 2500W element becomes a 1250W element when connected to 120V. But if he’s often running the water heater from batteries, he might have it already equipped with low wattage 120V elements. Permanent conversion is a simple matter of draining the tank below the level of the lower element, removing the 240V elements, and replacing them with 120V elements rated at 50% or lower wattage than the 240V elements (and not exceeding the maximum wattage you want to consume from your battery system).
Electric water heaters have a resistor rated at a particular voltage and wattage. In my case it is a 240V 5,000W water heater. You can get a rough estimate with Ohms Law: www.electricaltechnology.org/2014/03/power-voltage-current-resistance-pvir-calculator.html R=V^2/P => R=240^2/5000 => R=11.5 ohm resistor P=V^2/R => P=125^2/11.5 => P=1,359W If I apply a lower voltage (125V) it simply dissipates less power. In my case it drops to about 1,480W.
Yes, just make sure they are stored at about 60% SOC. This will give you the best longevity. Every 3 months you should charge to 100% then discharge to 60% for storage.
Did you say the battery and power station has to have a 3kwh battery for home backup to qualify for the Federal tax credit? I've been turning in anything solar small and large to my CPA 😮 She filed them all and got my money 😅 Where are the rules?
On the IRS website midway down the page it says: "Battery storage technology must have a capacity of at least 3 kilowatt hours." Here is the link: www.irs.gov/credits-deductions/residential-clean-energy-credit
The 300k is a black box. You can't do any independent test on it directly. How can you build a trusted system with batteries that hide thier performance. If they cut corners on next years batch of 300k's ...how could you really tell.
Use the long-term code "DaveB300K" for 5% off for the B300K series: shrsl.com/4oqep
Shop the B300K on Amazon: amzn.to/3B7alW3
See more projects and get my FREE Solar Financial Calculator on my website ProjectsWithDave.com: projectswithdave.com/
Plugs with 90° bend to the cord would really help a lot.
Yes, it would help with the distance sticking out the side, but might make it difficult to manage the overlapping cords at the unit.
Yep. Like Pecron mayb
Yeah those cords though! They've got to come out with some 90 degree connectors... or least some adaptors.
Can you mix different sized expansion batteries together with this battery?
Why dont we have mycelium batteries available?
I'm a big fan of power stations, but these expansion batteries are stupid expensive for what you get. This B300k holds the equivalent of a couple of 12v batteries, roughly, and costs what 6 Lifepo4 batteries would cost. I have an AC200max and use 3, 12v batteries in parallel to expand the capacity to 5kw for the system. It only works at low amp draw because the batteries only "charge" the Bluetti at 120 watts or so, That works fine for me because use it to run 3 chest freezers in my barn. The B300k looks like it could be a good addition to a home backup situation, but to get ay really usable Kwh, you'll need $5k worth of Bluetti products.
I agree with virtually everyone on those Bluetti cords. UA-camrs have been complaining about them from the day they came out and Bluetti continues to ignore the issue. It literally doubles the space needed to house the system. I know some newer companies have connectors with 90s, so maybe Bluetti will figure it out.
These all-in-one power stations are for those who don't want to get into the DIY space. Sounds like you are ok with that so you might be better off building the whole system instead of just trying to expand with your own batteries. You can get your own inverter and charger and utilize your batteries more effectively like this simple DIY system: ua-cam.com/video/OwfGLu8IY_M/v-deo.html
I have all of that and have built a couple of small DIY systems. The beauty of the power stations for me is portability. We have a hurricane with the path coming directly over our area tonight and tomorrow, so all my preparation will probably get tested. The dual-fuel generator is still my best option.@ProjectsWithDave
@@jdollar5852 its slicker and easier to do it this way and you simply decide for yourself if that's worth paying for or not.
Thanks
COOP
...
you mentioned the port form USB-a to C. it is a cost of something like 10 or 14 bucks more just for the port. then for the electronics. it is another 30 some bucks for the Cert and the chips to do that. space would be the same. you could say not much more. but it really is.
the IEEE or group that runs USB they want a premium for USB-C.
Wow, I didn't realize there were so many hands in the pot for USB-C.
thats like 12-20k of bluetti equipment sitting right in that last shot
What?
That water heater you use in this video test is 120V, or you converted it to that? Thanks.
A 240V water heater doesn’t have to be converted to heat sink 120V.
It simply draws half the amperage and heats slowly.
A 2500W element becomes a 1250W element when connected to 120V.
But if he’s often running the water heater from batteries, he might have it already equipped with low wattage 120V elements.
Permanent conversion is a simple matter of draining the tank below the level of the lower element, removing the 240V elements, and replacing them with 120V elements rated at 50% or lower wattage than the 240V elements (and not exceeding the maximum wattage you want to consume from your battery system).
Electric water heaters have a resistor rated at a particular voltage and wattage. In my case it is a 240V 5,000W water heater.
You can get a rough estimate with Ohms Law: www.electricaltechnology.org/2014/03/power-voltage-current-resistance-pvir-calculator.html
R=V^2/P => R=240^2/5000 => R=11.5 ohm resistor
P=V^2/R => P=125^2/11.5 => P=1,359W
If I apply a lower voltage (125V) it simply dissipates less power. In my case it drops to about 1,480W.
can I leave my B300K plugged into my AC200 Max when I am not using the units (both are turned off).
Yes, just make sure they are stored at about 60% SOC. This will give you the best longevity. Every 3 months you should charge to 100% then discharge to 60% for storage.
stupid question,why 89% of rated capacity when new?
That's the norm with power stations. For 99% of them anyways.
Convert loss from dc to ac
@@santoryuogi2771an inverter shouldn’t be that inefficient though
Indication of a shitty brand
Will the b300k work with ac240?
It's not on the list of compatible units, but you could ask Bluetti directly.
der akku is ok vom preis und gut in der qualität aber der inverter is ne frechheit
Did you say the battery and power station has to have a 3kwh battery for home backup to qualify for the Federal tax credit?
I've been turning in anything solar small and large to my CPA 😮 She filed them all and got my money 😅
Where are the rules?
On the IRS website midway down the page it says: "Battery storage technology must have a capacity of at least 3 kilowatt hours."
Here is the link: www.irs.gov/credits-deductions/residential-clean-energy-credit
The 300k is a black box. You can't do any independent test on it directly. How can you build a trusted system with batteries that hide thier performance.
If they cut corners on next years batch of 300k's ...how could you really tell.
Wait - so neither of these units delivered 100% rated capacity when new?! What a rip. Seems like the cost per watt then is appropriately higher.
The advertised capacity is based on the cell rating, but the BMS is limiting it some amount to increase the battery life.
HOWdy P-w-E-D-D, ...
Thanks
COOP
...
Thanks for watching!
what did he say
QUITE EXPENSIVE IN ROMANIA A 5KW BATTERY COSTS UP TO 1000 DOLLARS
It's a strange title when you start off by comparison. why not call it a comparison video so I didn't have to click on it?
The best way to show the performance of the new one is to compare it to the old one.