I have 2 uro's and want them healthy as poss. and find varied rec. requirements,want mine to breed so 130-135 in day, and 90-75 at night and light at 9-10 hr.s you seem to know the most of all the video's I have found. Thank you, you rock
Hi @Saurian Domain I have a uro on the way and I have a 5 feet by 2 feet by 2 feet enclosure. What size UV tubes do you suggest I use? So far I got one ProT5 46" UV-B Kit with 12% Bulb × 1. Should that go on the cool or hot side and what size should I get for the side opposite of where the current one I have should goes?
It is winter here in UK so at the time I put this video together it was reasonably easy to set temps without a stat. As the weather warms up I will be adding a dimming stat. I will have one of the basking bulbs using a low wattage (50w) that is not controlled by the stat. The other will be a larger wattage bulb (75w or 100w depending on room temp and altered to suit) connected to the stat. The thermostat probe will be placed in the cool end and act as a safety device to stop the enclosure overheating rather than heating control.
The ones in this viv are 70mm sofit vents bought from eBay for around £5 for 10. You can also get them in white from Screwfix for £4. You need an appropriate sized hole saw to fit them. You could also use Louvre vents or adjustable vents which need a jigsaw to cut the hole. Alternatively a series of holes could be covered with a vent rather than cutting a hole.
Ok I know I bother you way too much on different platforms. One more question please. Or two or three lol. :) night time heat...my old house drops to the 60s sometimes...would love to get a DHP. I heard really good things .. Does that need a dimmable thermostat? I have thermostat but they click on and off.. if so suggestions?? I know it has infra red A and B. Is this healthy?
We must have spoken elsewhere but I don't recognise you because we all have different screen names on here. You'll have to tag me elsewhere so I know who you are🤣 I really like DHP and have them in several of my enclosures as part of the all round lighting set up. Have you seen the video of my occelleta set up I have on here? I show how I use it it that video. They work best on a dimming stat but tbh most houses don't need nightime heat. I'm in the UK and only tend to get a couple of days a year where heat would be useful at night so it's not really needed. A couple of cold nights isn't going to hurt them but I would provide it if we had a prolonged cold spell.
@@sauriandomain.7092 In uromastyx group. Jessica Ozack. :) I am building an enclosure and keep asking questions everywhere. Like wiring and lighting placements etc.. I will look for that video now
All lights off at night. If you live somewhere that has really cold nightime drops a non light emitting heater like an Arcadia DHP, a megaray heat projector or a ceramic should be used.
A large hot basking zone bathed in good quality UVB, that is big enough to cover the whole animal, is essential. UVB and heat work together to complete the D3 cycle so providing both in the same area at optimal levels is paramount. Conversely keeping a well lit, open area with little or no UVB coverage is just as important in keeping an animal active instead of hiding This set up the employs the light and shade method. In simple terms it means high heat and high UVB in one area and low heat and no UVB in another, with a gradient of both in between. Using this method allows the animal to choose it's UVB exposure and thermoregulate without needing to hide to escape either. If we think about a sunny day the strongest UV exposure is when we are in direct sunlight. If we move into the shade it gets cooler and UV levels drop but light levels remain high. An animal will do this in it's natural environment so offering this in your set up allows your animal to display and enact natural, instictive behaviours. m.facebook.com/groups/396395070428291/permalink/2646664178734691/
The UVB fitting and tube was around £50. Sunblaster around £20. Ceramic fittings £14 each. The minisun was around £5. I built the enclosure from a single sheet of ply for £36. Glass tracks £10. Vents 10 for £4. I had the glass to hand but would have been about £25.
thanks so much!!! I’m currently doing all my research on uromastyx as I’m really interested in getting one & maybe breeding for captivity reasons.
How'd it go? Did everything pan out?
I have 2 uro's and want them healthy as poss. and find varied rec. requirements,want mine to breed so 130-135 in day, and 90-75 at night and light at 9-10 hr.s you seem to know the most of all the video's I have found. Thank you, you rock
THANKS FOR THE INFO
Hi @Saurian Domain I have a uro on the way and I have a 5 feet by 2 feet by 2 feet enclosure. What size UV tubes do you suggest I use? So far I got one ProT5 46" UV-B Kit with 12% Bulb × 1. Should that go on the cool or hot side and what size should I get for the side opposite of where the current one I have should goes?
Do you hook these up to any sort of thermostat or timer?
It is winter here in UK so at the time I put this video together it was reasonably easy to set temps without a stat. As the weather warms up I will be adding a dimming stat. I will have one of the basking bulbs using a low wattage (50w) that is not controlled by the stat. The other will be a larger wattage bulb (75w or 100w depending on room temp and altered to suit) connected to the stat. The thermostat probe will be placed in the cool end and act as a safety device to stop the enclosure overheating rather than heating control.
Hey man now did you get the vents? I'm making my own uro viv and I'm not sure if air vent covers are the thing I'm looking for?
The ones in this viv are 70mm sofit vents bought from eBay for around £5 for 10. You can also get them in white from Screwfix for £4. You need an appropriate sized hole saw to fit them. You could also use Louvre vents or adjustable vents which need a jigsaw to cut the hole. Alternatively a series of holes could be covered with a vent rather than cutting a hole.
Ok I know I bother you way too much on different platforms. One more question please. Or two or three lol. :) night time heat...my old house drops to the 60s sometimes...would love to get a DHP. I heard really good things .. Does that need a dimmable thermostat? I have thermostat but they click on and off.. if so suggestions?? I know it has infra red A and B. Is this healthy?
We must have spoken elsewhere but I don't recognise you because we all have different screen names on here. You'll have to tag me elsewhere so I know who you are🤣
I really like DHP and have them in several of my enclosures as part of the all round lighting set up. Have you seen the video of my occelleta set up I have on here? I show how I use it it that video.
They work best on a dimming stat but tbh most houses don't need nightime heat. I'm in the UK and only tend to get a couple of days a year where heat would be useful at night so it's not really needed. A couple of cold nights isn't going to hurt them but I would provide it if we had a prolonged cold spell.
@@sauriandomain.7092 In uromastyx group. Jessica Ozack. :) I am building an enclosure and keep asking questions everywhere. Like wiring and lighting placements etc.. I will look for that video now
Do you turn off the lights at night an just leave the heat bulb
All lights off at night. If you live somewhere that has really cold nightime drops a non light emitting heater like an Arcadia DHP, a megaray heat projector or a ceramic should be used.
Thanks
Do you put uvb next to the basking light
A large hot basking zone bathed in good quality UVB, that is big enough to cover the whole animal, is essential. UVB and heat work together to complete the D3 cycle so providing both in the same area at optimal levels is paramount. Conversely keeping a well lit, open area with little or no UVB coverage is just as important in keeping an animal active instead of hiding
This set up the employs the light and shade method. In simple terms it means high heat and high UVB in one area and low heat and no UVB in another, with a gradient of both in between. Using this method allows the animal to choose it's UVB exposure and thermoregulate without needing to hide to escape either. If we think about a sunny day the strongest UV exposure is when we are in direct sunlight. If we move into the shade it gets cooler and UV levels drop but light levels remain high. An animal will do this in it's natural environment so offering this in your set up allows your animal to display and enact natural, instictive behaviours.
m.facebook.com/groups/396395070428291/permalink/2646664178734691/
@@sauriandomain.7092 thanks
How much did the whole setup cost?
The UVB fitting and tube was around £50. Sunblaster around £20. Ceramic fittings £14 each. The minisun was around £5. I built the enclosure from a single sheet of ply for £36. Glass tracks £10. Vents 10 for £4. I had the glass to hand but would have been about £25.
Saurian Domain. Awesome