I installed this same model with the cats in November 2022 and we love it. We've had the same experience and performance out of it that this guy mentioned.
To accommodate the catalytic converters and the bypass they had to reengineer the top of the stove completely. Instead of having horizontal tubes there is a horizontal plate at the back wall with holes in it that provide air for secondary combustion. The new stoves are crazy clean burners but so were the pre converter stoves. Agreed converters make the stove more trouble to run. I am just thankful hearthstone put in a bypass
Installed the 2023 model last fall. Our glass is dirty every morning, sometimes almost black around the corners. The best glass cleaner we have found so far is "Meeco's Red Devil Woodstove Glass Cleaner" which is available on Amazon. My local stove tech also recommended "Speedy White Hearth and Stove Cleaner" which I may try next time. Back to the Clydesdale- I am not getting near the burn time you are referencing. We are on the coast in northern California (almost Oregon) and burn Madrone, Oak and Douglass Fir, all aged at least 1 year. With good coals in the box and loading the stove around 10pm I rarely have anything other than a few small coals buried under the ash at 7am the next morning. A chunk of oak or madrone even larger than 4x4 only lasts an hour or two. One thing that I think is causing this is that the draft can not be completely shut down and always burns like a blowtorch (see the way your wood is burning in your video) right in the center. You can damp it down some but in my opinion not enough. I have done the "dollar bill test" around the door and the gasket seal is tight so that's not the problem. I'd love to be able to adjust the main draft so that I could close off the intake more but don't see how that can be done. Any thoughts?
The main draft cannot be reduced less than it's minimum. It sounds like you have a bit of a overdraft issue with your chimney. To achieve the long burn times here are a few pointers. Don't empty your ash. Keep about a inch in the stove as that will insulate your coals. I burn pieces that are much larger 6x6 and 4x8. Start with a rolling fire then close the door with the converters engaged. Run the fan only at a speed that will keep the firebox in the safe converter range. I have mine on a remote plug so it is easy to turn off. I normally run it in the middle to low speed range. Running the fan on high will burn up your coals faster. You should have no problem getting 12 hours of heat life if To clean glass my stove is normally hot so I use a razor blade and steel wool. It creates only a dry mess which I like. A sharpening stone for the razor blade and a handle is a must. Hope this helps. Thank you for commenting.
I have the original Clydesdale before they added the catalytic converter. It has air tubes in the top with a special baffle panel that allows reburning. I specifically got it to replace an older none Hearthstone stove that had a catalytic converter, converters are nothing but problems, and in my opinion not worth the headaches. Love my original Clydesdale! Burn dry wood, and keep a hot fire, and you get very little smoke even without a converter.
This stove does have the secondary combustion air tubes. They were just not that active in the video as the fire was almost out. I also have a preconverter Manchester woodstove. Both stoves burn very clean but to meet the new emmision guidelines most stoves will have catalytic converters in them. I am glad that hearthstone put a bypass in so it is not a expensive item that you have to replace after only a few seasons. Stoves with converters are more trouble but they do keep your chimney a little cleaner. Thank you for watching the video.
@@honeybeehomesteading The new model Clydesdale has done away with the original secondary burn system I have and gone all in on the catalytic system they call TruHybrid. Catalytic converters are a pain, they need to be cleaned to draw properly, and you have to watch the stove to use the bypass when it's not hot enough, or when it's too hot.
@@paulg1827I think you may be mistaken as the new Clydesdale insert has the truhybrid system. Agreed the converters can be a pain in the but. Learning how much wood to put in the stove so it doesn't get too hot is also a limitation for longer burns. I have found that 2 pieces of firewood will yield a slow and steady heat amount without overheating during the burn. Three pieces will get to hot at the very end of the burn when the wood is almost all coals. This is with burning seasoned hickory. I think red oak will burn a little cooler and not overheat with 3 sticks at the end of the burn but I haven't tried it yet.
@honeybeehomesteading Does yours have four horizontal air tubes in the top below the baffle? I checked the new model owners manual, and it did not show them. I've never liked catalytic converters, they are only doing it due to government mandates. The sales pitch from Hearthstone when I bought my stove was " no problematic catalytic converter"
I think my reply got lost. The new design does have secondary air combustion. There is a air channel at the top back of the stove. They had to redesign the whole top to allow for the bypass and the converters. Agreed the converters make for more hassle. I am just glad they put a bypass in.
I had the older version of this stove. Loved it. One thing you said that I don't believe is true is you saying that unlike most catalytic stoves, this one has a bypass. I think ALL catalytic stoves have a bypass. Also the older versions did not have soapstone upper baffle. It was a ceramic type plate.
You may be right about the bypass. I was basing that information on earlier converter stoves. This new version has ceramic plates just like the older version. The heat life on these stoves just can't be beat. Thank you for watching.
Hi. Thanks for the video. With the efficiency of this stove, how much visible smoke do you have coming out of your chimney? Can you still smell the stove burning outside your house?
It depends on how you run the stove and at what stage the fire is in. When you first start the fire you will have visible smoke and odor outside. Once you get the stove up to temp where the reburners kick in there really isn't much smoke and no smell. You can see the reburners burning at the top of the stove through the glass. My old stove smoked all the time. As this stove 0nly produces 1.16 grams per hour of soot it doesn't hardly produce any smoke at all as long as it is run correctly. Hope this helps
Thanks for the video I just had mine install. I did the break in burn (Let it get warm but not hot) now it is cooling to room temp. When can i start another fire in it There is no info in the manual as to how long to wait. thanks
No need to wait. Once it as cooled back to room temp. All you are doing with the break in fire is getting rid of any moisture that the soap stone has absorbed. The warm fire dries everything out. If you leave your stove for a month without burning a fire you should do another break in. You will love this stove.
The blower is very quiet. On low it is 16 db on high it is 35 where I use it it produces 23 db. Measured 4 ft from the stove. Every stove will smoke the glass. Look for a video today on how to clean hot glass here on my channel. If you are shopping . Your priorities aside from if it will fit should be BTU,heat life, and efficiency in that order. The longer the heat life the more comfortable your house will be and the work load will be much less as you don't want to start a fire from scratch if you don't have to.
Hi from TX. We're looking at this model for our fireplace. We have a large fireplace and it eats 30" chunks of oak like know one's business. With that said, we love our fireplace, but it's time for our common sense to kick in and be smart. I like this insert because of the soapstone and heat retention. Are there any recommendations you have regarding fan or accessories? thank you, Eric
It comes with a built in fan. The stove cut our firewood consumption in half. Two items I would recommend. One a small penlight as it is hard to see the temp gauge. Second a remote on off switch for the fan. You can use it and have the stove speed left where you like it
@@honeybeehomesteading Thank you. We reached out to Embers of Colorado. No one local in our area. Did you do the install yourself? If so, was it a pain, or just a matter of getting dirty? Eric
@@ericwiltz6584 it was a pain. But it was because my fireplace opening was only one inch taller than the stove and the smoke shelf made it hard to get the chimney connected. I do not recommend doing it yourself if your fireplace has less than 2 inches of clearance 3 or more is ideal. Once you get the chimney connected the rest is pretty straightforward.
You should not need a cleaning if you follow the recommended hot burns. Those are best done when you start a fire 🔥. Where is the smoke coming from? Is it when you open the door or during operation. If it is during operation you might have pockets of moisture or in some types of wood gas that puffs inside the stove so that it will come out. If that is the case open your damper some and the smoke will go up the stack instead. I recommend you use a moisture meter if your wood is less than a year seasoned.
The key to not puffing smoke is to turn the air intake all the way up and first just crack the door open. Once you get that draft kicking, slowly open the door.
Having an issue with a lot of build up on the glass and in the flue. What do you think is the best way to remedy this? Should I leave the draft open and or not push the bypass in for the catalytic converter?
You may have buildup on the converters restricting your flow. this happened to me even though i only operated in the safe heat range. here is a video that tell you how to check ua-cam.com/video/DQN_WIU2_Ug/v-deo.html. if your converters are ok then make sure you get the fire going fast. use the fan and build a hot fire regularly. instead of keeping a flame fire going build a bigger hotter fire then let the heat life of the stove keep the house warm. rebuild the fire while you still have coals to do so. this method has worked well for me. let me know how it goes.
Opening the bypass will protect your converters. Turning on the fan will cool your stove. If it gets too hold open the bypass and turn on the fan. Once it cools back down into the safe range close your bypass but keep your fan on. You can adjust the fan to help maintain the stove in the ideal temperature range.
@@honeybeehomesteadingthanks, you are correct in saying that these stoves need to be watched. I have trouble every time with soot collecting in the bottom corners of the glass pane.
@@AlBernhardt Yes I have to clean the glass daily. A single edge razor blade works pretty good for the sooty stuff and steel wool for the lighter stuff. I use a sharpening stone on the razor blade before I use it as I was blazing through blades.
Sitting here, babysitting the fire and had a thought. Too bad there wasn't a way to connect the blower fan and the catalyst active needle. As the fire heats up and the needle rises in the catalyst active range, so should the blower fan speed. Would make it easier babysitting the fire, by the sound the the blower fan....
@@AlBernhardt something I did do to make it a little easier was to add a remote switch to the fan. I also keep a small penlight on my mantle for checking the temperature. The variable heat thermostat is a idea I like
The long heat life means you can build a fire at 7 pm, By 9 pm you should have only coals and a steady temp then you can go to bed and still have heat and coals in the morning. This stove has the longest heat life of any stove I have found. if you want to do a unattended burn you can always open the bypass if you have to leave the fire unattended and it has allot of wood in it. lower btu wood is another option, i have been burning hickory and its coals burn really hot, regular oak doesn't burn as hot.
With tax we got ours for 5k. You can get a Vermont castings Montpelier 2 wood insert which has the same size firebox and approximately the same efficiency for 1500 less. The difference is in the heat life. Clydesdale is 24 hr vs the Vermont at only 7. That means you are going to have to feed the fire 4 times a day and you will use more wood and will not have such even heating. The extra cost is well worth the money IMHO.
Thanks for the video….how do you know when to open and close the catalytic converter control? I keep mine open for a period of time until it really gets going and then I close it….please give detail instructions on how to use that control….thank you!
It will vary with the size of fire you build. From a dead cold stove you will need about 30 minutes for it to reach operating temperature. Cheech the temperature gauge in the corner to make sure it is warm enough to close. Now here is where it can get tricky. If you are burning seasoned hardwood which is all you should be burning I have found that the stove will heat on only one stick of wood. If you load three or four sticks I have found there is a period when the logs are about half burnt that the stove will run too hot for the converters. It is when you still have flame but also lots of coals. Even with the damper fully closed it can get too warm. You can cool it off running the blower, easiest is just to burn smaller amounts of wood. I like one or 2 only unless it is really cold out. There is no problem leaving the converters active while you let the fire burn out. It is only with a new fire when the box is too cold that this will be a issue. it will take a little time getting used to running with the bypass but it is a great feature. Older stoves had to have their converters replaced every few years. Properly run these converters should not need to be replaced.
Just had out new Clydesdale installed. Does the indicator needle on the cat probe interfere with the surround bracket. Didn't know if my catalyst thermometer was damaged.
There is room but if the installer isn't careful he can damage it by hitting the surround. Have you done a break in fire yet? . The instructions for the break in fire are in the manual. Your thermometer should start working after about 45 min if it is undamaged. It takes a good while for the mass to heat up especially with the tiny break in fire.
@@honeybeehomesteading Thanks for answering my question. Spoke to the installer and it sounds like this is a problem from the manufacturer. No solutions yet. Thanks for putting up the video. Your right no one else has done a video on the Clydesdale.
hello i just got the clydesdale installed in my house. Love it so far. which settings do you find give you best results for burn time? sometimes with the catalytic converter engaged the flame goes out. even with the temperature on the higher side. thanks.
Catalytic converter engaged. Damper set to almost fully closed. Flush with the ash catch. If you are having trouble with the flame going out there are several factors that could be happening. First and foremost what is the moisture content of the wood. You want to use firewood that has been seasoned for at least 10 months. The size of your logs and the number of logs also plays a role. Three small logs will burn better and faster than one big one I typically load one large thick log along with 2 small logs. The firebox will stay much warmer and extent the heat life with the converters engaged so bypass them only when needed. Type of firewood also plays a part. Burn oak maple hickory. For starting fires poplar can't be beat. Never burn pine even just as kindling.
I thought of something else that might be your problem. It is very unlikely unless you burned some high moisture wood or if you have run the unit for hours on bypass mode. Your converters might be clogged. You can easily inspect them on a cold stove by removing the 2 Ceiling plates which just slip out. If they are clogged you may be able to clean them by running the stove with the bypass open until you get almost to the top of the safe converter range on the thermometer. Close the bypass and keep a eye on your temp so that it doesn't get too hot. I would recommend loading with a clean fast burning wood like poplar. With the converters engaged you should have a nice fire but not raging. If your secondary combustion is not working then you stove is too cold. Hope this helps let me know how it goes.
I think I found your problem and how to fix it as mine started doing the same thing. Here is a short video of the fix. ua-cam.com/video/DQN_WIU2_Ug/v-deo.html
@@honeybeehomesteading The door is cast iron but the rest of it is made out of 1/4 inch steel and the baffle out of 5/16ths steel. It’s their large fireplace insert to be clear.
@@tacitus7 the stove looks to be the about the same btu wise. I really like that it has rollers to make install easier. Mine is a whopping 550# and I used cornmeal to help slide it in. Heat life is half that of my stove but 12 hrs is as they say good enough. Vermont castings stove of similar size has only a 8 hr burn time which I think is too short. I find states burn time are about 20 percent less than real world. You can get the stoves to burn the advertised heat life but you have to load the firebox to the top and run the fire just so. It's a little to much hassle imo. Mine is advertised as 24 hr heat life. I don't load the box heavy and the fire will still remain for 12 hrs so I don't have to relight.
We just had the same stove installed. I am disappointed in two things. The biggest one is the amount of air being pushed by the blowers. I am wondering if it is due to our surround being installed too low and pinching that airflow. I have searched for a video showing how to remove and install the surround but can't seem to find one. Is it easy? I did find the instructions but they are not very detailed. Additionally, in the instructions it shows "surround leveling bracket" and I can't seem to see them and wonder if they were not installed, therefore the surround is collapsing and pinching off the air flow of the blowers. I am hoping this can be adjusted. The second thing is long burn times. I can't seem to keep a fire going for more than 2 hours. The stove stays hot with coals for 4-6 hours and warm for us to 12 hours. I am wondering if my longs are too thin. What size logs are you putting in to get those long burn times that you are talking about? Thank you for posting these videos!
Your surround may not be too low. The stove may be set too far back. Look at the front top of the stove. You will see acast iron plate with slots in it. All the forced air heat comes out of those. To effective use those make sure your firebox is hot enough and your fan speed is fast enough. As far as heat life here are some pointers. Burn 4x4 pieces of hardwood, white oak and hickory are the best but any oak will do good. Remember wood fuel amount is the same for all wood. The heavier the piece the more fuel it has. If you start a fire with smaller pieces that is fine once you have coals switch to one or 2 big pieces of firewood. Don't remove your ash until it is full as it helps keep your coals. Once your fire is rolling reduce your air intake on the front of the stove. Try this and let me know how it goes.
@@honeybeehomesteading Thank you. I do see the plate you are talking about. I have a feeling the stove is pushed too far back. I can barely see one full row of the slots and ultimately only the middle third is out from under the surround. I am guessing I will need to have the installers back to adjust this? Also, it sounds like you use much thicker firewood. I was using long pieces but only 1"x2" to 1"x3". I will try tonight with larger pieces after I get the fire going with smaller pieces. I let it cool off today to try and figure out how to remove the surround. Sadly, I had no luck with that.
@@joerider6560 I would let your installers deal with the surround. It is anchored to the stove by a couple of brackets. it is a real pain. You should be able to see 3 rows easily. This puts the edge of the stove by the door 1 1/2 inches out from the surround and 3 inches out at the top. Your installer should not bill you for any adjustments.there are small leveling brackets that are used only if needed to the bottom of the surround. the other brackets you cannot see.
@@honeybeehomesteading I used bigger pieces of wood like you recommended and it worked much better. I'd say closer to 6 hours of burn time but I will say my pieces were not 4x4 but bigger than what I was using. I was able to pull that plate out and wedge a steel punch under the surround to lift it up .25" and the airflow is significantly higher. I am working with the installers to come back and adjust things. Fingers crossed.
Yes i installed it myself. i purchased the liner on amazon as i wanted a 316 stainless not a 308 stainless liner as 316 offers more corrosion resistance. i also wanted the larger cap. Amazon was also cheaper than my local dealer but they were great and would have bought from them if they had had what i wanted. tip when you install the linear it is a good idea to also stuff the sides with bare insulation.
Welcome to the Hearthstone family - it's going to get cold tonight in the Midwest - stay warm. I'm on a second season with the Manchester, which appears to be a comparable unit to the Clydesdale. I can confirm the 10-12 hour burn time for usable coals to reignite the next load. I've been able to get away with an ash clean out once every 4-6 weeks, without too much notice on performance (before the ash takes up volume in the firebox and the catalysts get clogged). I'm curious if the fireplace bricks also act like a thermal mass heat sink, with the firebox insert concept? I've just recently been introduced to masonry heater designs - the soapstone stoves appears to emulate the concept.
I also own a Manchester that is 4 years old and is pre converter but also has the soap stone. Both stoves have long heat life and they are the closest thing to a masonry unit you can buy. The soap stone in combination with cast iron gives you a heat life 4 times that of a cast iron and firebrick stove. I am looking at Vermont castings as a example. For the work reduction the hearthstone stoves can't be beat in my opinion. I think anyone wanting to upgrade Thier stove heat life should be top on their list of things to consider. How much wood are you using and what size space are you heating? By my calculations switching to the new stove will cut my wood consumption in half down to one cord for 2300 sqr ft.
@@ckriskinser1976 Last season I went through 10 face cords (3 & 1/3 cords) of quartered Oak, seasoned below 20% moisture for a 1,000 sqr ft., 1 story home. I burn 24/7 with the NG central unit idol all season and run the home a little hot, keeping it in the 80s. I've got R11 insulation for exterior walls, with newer windows and R14 on the vaulted roof. Having gone on forums, I've found the wood stove community is mixed on both catalysts and soapstones. The Blaze King boys seem to be critical of any added value of soapstone, suggesting that the heat life is merely delayed, not extended, on the back end of the burn. The masonry heaters appear to be works of art, and seem next level. Listening to some streams, the owners swear by the method of slow release of radiant heat from a thermal mass.
that vaulted roof is really eating your wood. Like you i heat 24-7. Blaze king is right in that the heat is delayed but are wrong in the fact that soap stone also captures more heat as opposed to having it go up the stack. After heating with a steel stove insert i can attest that the soap stone keeps your house much more evenly heated and uses half the amount of wood. A lot less work all around. But steel stoves are a good pick for areas that need to be heated quickly but not often. they would be my first pick for a off grid cabin.
Hey I have to make the final decision to heat our home here in Maine. I would appreciate if someone could tell me if the Clydesdale would heat as well as a vac defiant or big jotul. I heard an Doesnt really give you the heat you expect from a wood stove? Would appreciate a respond. Hard decision because the insert would look so nice in my existing fireplace 😢
It does not give you quick heat, it gives you long lasting heat which is a big plus in my book. I have seen the Vermont insert, I did not like it at all as it's firebox was much smaller. If you are wanting to compare inserts vs freestanding well I have both the Clydesdale insert and Manchester woodstove. Both will give you great heat but without a fan the Manchester will be slower to heat a cold room. You can heat more effectively with it by installing a cold air intake. That is not a option on the insert. You didn't say the sqr ft of your place and of course it depends on your house layout and insulation. I heat 2300 sq ft even on the coldest of days with both wood stoves and me not having to tend to them much. Either stove can very effectively heat 1500 sqr ft and probably 2000 but you will need to run the stove hot and keep it fueled. Jotul makes a good stove but I do not know how good the heat life is.long heat life will keep you much more comfortable.
@@honeybeehomesteading I have the Vermont Castings Montpelier II which is their largest insert. I am in Maine and it has been great for being able to heat the whole 1st floor of our house. It burns pretty efficiently and almost no smoke or odor comes out of the chimney once the fire is going good. In a previous house, I have had both a large Jotul and a Vermont Castings Defiant. This insert does a better job than either of those stoves.
@@dewarner12 @dewarner12 the Vermont is a much more affordable option. What I didn't like about it was the small door. On top of having a small door it has those cast iron glass protectors in the front which makes it impossible to load larger logs. I like to load 6 x8 logs for longer burns which seems impossible with that stove. The Vermont claims it can heat 400 sq ft more than the Clydesdale but there are no btu specs or heat life. That being said it is a good looking stove it just needs a bigger door imo
@@honeybeehomesteading You may be thinking about the Vermont Castings Gifford, which is their smaller unit. The Montpeilier II has a 10"x22" door opening which allows for large 16" splits and long burn times.
@@dewarner12 it must have been, thank you for pointing that out.. My stove has a 10 1/2 by 22 opening which is plenty. That should be all anyone should ever need. I always loved the look of the defiant stoves. The alderlea by Pacific energy is the best looking insert IMHO. It is too bad it is a steel stove with a cast iron facade.
No having most of the heat go up the chimney is from fireplaces. Wood fireplaces have a average of about 15 percent effeciency. Meaning that 85percent of the heat is lost up the chimney. Old Wood stoves achieved about 60 percent. This stove has a effeciency of 79 percent meaning you loose only 21 percent of the heat. This is about the maximum achievable as you have to have some heat loss to carry away the smoke. Attics are unaffected by the type of heat. You will have the same amount of condensation if with a wood stove vs gas heat. You should not have condensation with either if your attic is properly vented.
@@redsresearch there is a stainless steel plate I installed at the fireplace box. This is not needed really as I also packed fiberglass insulation around the liner in the old chimney. I then used silicon to seal the new cap to the old chimney clay tile. It is 100 percent airtight.
@@redsresearchI didn't show the plate as there is no room to see it with the stove in place, without the surround there is only one inch of clearance between the stove and the top of the fireplace opening. You don't have to have the plate as long as you stuff insulation beside the pipe, i did mine 6 ft down and wish i had done more. i do have insulation above the plate as well.
I installed this same model with the cats in November 2022 and we love it. We've had the same experience and performance out of it that this guy mentioned.
i know firmly believe that heat life of a wood stove should be top priority if you want the most comfort from your stove. thanks for watching.
To accommodate the catalytic converters and the bypass they had to reengineer the top of the stove completely. Instead of having horizontal tubes there is a horizontal plate at the back wall with holes in it that provide air for secondary combustion. The new stoves are crazy clean burners but so were the pre converter stoves. Agreed converters make the stove more trouble to run. I am just thankful hearthstone put in a bypass
Installed the 2023 model last fall. Our glass is dirty every morning, sometimes almost black around the corners. The best glass cleaner we have found so far is "Meeco's Red Devil Woodstove Glass Cleaner" which is available on Amazon. My local stove tech also recommended "Speedy White Hearth and Stove Cleaner" which I may try next time. Back to the Clydesdale- I am not getting near the burn time you are referencing. We are on the coast in northern California (almost Oregon) and burn Madrone, Oak and Douglass Fir, all aged at least 1 year. With good coals in the box and loading the stove around 10pm I rarely have anything other than a few small coals buried under the ash at 7am the next morning. A chunk of oak or madrone even larger than 4x4 only lasts an hour or two. One thing that I think is causing this is that the draft can not be completely shut down and always burns like a blowtorch (see the way your wood is burning in your video) right in the center. You can damp it down some but in my opinion not enough. I have done the "dollar bill test" around the door and the gasket seal is tight so that's not the problem. I'd love to be able to adjust the main draft so that I could close off the intake more but don't see how that can be done. Any thoughts?
The main draft cannot be reduced less than it's minimum. It sounds like you have a bit of a overdraft issue with your chimney. To achieve the long burn times here are a few pointers. Don't empty your ash. Keep about a inch in the stove as that will insulate your coals. I burn pieces that are much larger 6x6 and 4x8. Start with a rolling fire then close the door with the converters engaged. Run the fan only at a speed that will keep the firebox in the safe converter range. I have mine on a remote plug so it is easy to turn off. I normally run it in the middle to low speed range. Running the fan on high will burn up your coals faster. You should have no problem getting 12 hours of heat life if To clean glass my stove is normally hot so I use a razor blade and steel wool. It creates only a dry mess which I like. A sharpening stone for the razor blade and a handle is a must. Hope this helps. Thank you for commenting.
Here's a cheap tip, use baby wipes to clean your stove glass instead of those expensive rip off products...you can thank me afterwards.
I have the original Clydesdale before they added the catalytic converter. It has air tubes in the top with a special baffle panel that allows reburning. I specifically got it to replace an older none Hearthstone stove that had a catalytic converter, converters are nothing but problems, and in my opinion not worth the headaches. Love my original Clydesdale! Burn dry wood, and keep a hot fire, and you get very little smoke even without a converter.
This stove does have the secondary combustion air tubes. They were just not that active in the video as the fire was almost out. I also have a preconverter Manchester woodstove. Both stoves burn very clean but to meet the new emmision guidelines most stoves will have catalytic converters in them. I am glad that hearthstone put a bypass in so it is not a expensive item that you have to replace after only a few seasons. Stoves with converters are more trouble but they do keep your chimney a little cleaner. Thank you for watching the video.
@@honeybeehomesteading The new model Clydesdale has done away with the original secondary burn system I have and gone all in on the catalytic system they call TruHybrid. Catalytic converters are a pain, they need to be cleaned to draw properly, and you have to watch the stove to use the bypass when it's not hot enough, or when it's too hot.
@@paulg1827I think you may be mistaken as the new Clydesdale insert has the truhybrid system. Agreed the converters can be a pain in the but. Learning how much wood to put in the stove so it doesn't get too hot is also a limitation for longer burns. I have found that 2 pieces of firewood will yield a slow and steady heat amount without overheating during the burn. Three pieces will get to hot at the very end of the burn when the wood is almost all coals. This is with burning seasoned hickory. I think red oak will burn a little cooler and not overheat with 3 sticks at the end of the burn but I haven't tried it yet.
@honeybeehomesteading Does yours have four horizontal air tubes in the top below the baffle? I checked the new model owners manual, and it did not show them. I've never liked catalytic converters, they are only doing it due to government mandates. The sales pitch from Hearthstone when I bought my stove was " no problematic catalytic converter"
I think my reply got lost. The new design does have secondary air combustion. There is a air channel at the top back of the stove. They had to redesign the whole top to allow for the bypass and the converters. Agreed the converters make for more hassle. I am just glad they put a bypass in.
I had the older version of this stove. Loved it. One thing you said that I don't believe is true is you saying that unlike most catalytic stoves, this one has a bypass. I think ALL catalytic stoves have a bypass. Also the older versions did not have soapstone upper baffle. It was a ceramic type plate.
You may be right about the bypass. I was basing that information on earlier converter stoves. This new version has ceramic plates just like the older version. The heat life on these stoves just can't be beat. Thank you for watching.
Hi. Thanks for the video. With the efficiency of this stove, how much visible smoke do you have coming out of your chimney? Can you still smell the stove burning outside your house?
It depends on how you run the stove and at what stage the fire is in. When you first start the fire you will have visible smoke and odor outside. Once you get the stove up to temp where the reburners kick in there really isn't much smoke and no smell. You can see the reburners burning at the top of the stove through the glass. My old stove smoked all the time. As this stove 0nly produces 1.16 grams per hour of soot it doesn't hardly produce any smoke at all as long as it is run correctly. Hope this helps
@@honeybeehomesteading Thanks for the reply. That helps.
Thanks for the video I just had mine install. I did the break in burn (Let it get warm but not hot) now it is cooling to room temp. When can i start another fire in it There is no info in the manual as to how long to wait. thanks
No need to wait. Once it as cooled back to room temp. All you are doing with the break in fire is getting rid of any moisture that the soap stone has absorbed. The warm fire dries everything out. If you leave your stove for a month without burning a fire you should do another break in. You will love this stove.
Great video. Do you have a problem with the glass turning black? And is the blower loud? My husband and I are shopping around.
The blower is very quiet. On low it is 16 db on high it is 35 where I use it it produces 23 db. Measured 4 ft from the stove. Every stove will smoke the glass. Look for a video today on how to clean hot glass here on my channel. If you are shopping . Your priorities aside from if it will fit should be BTU,heat life, and efficiency in that order. The longer the heat life the more comfortable your house will be and the work load will be much less as you don't want to start a fire from scratch if you don't have to.
Hi from TX. We're looking at this model for our fireplace. We have a large fireplace and it eats 30" chunks of oak like know one's business. With that said, we love our fireplace, but it's time for our common sense to kick in and be smart. I like this insert because of the soapstone and heat retention. Are there any recommendations you have regarding fan or accessories? thank you, Eric
It comes with a built in fan. The stove cut our firewood consumption in half. Two items I would recommend. One a small penlight as it is hard to see the temp gauge. Second a remote on off switch for the fan. You can use it and have the stove speed left where you like it
@@honeybeehomesteading Thank you. We reached out to Embers of Colorado. No one local in our area. Did you do the install yourself? If so, was it a pain, or just a matter of getting dirty?
Eric
@@ericwiltz6584 it was a pain. But it was because my fireplace opening was only one inch taller than the stove and the smoke shelf made it hard to get the chimney connected. I do not recommend doing it yourself if your fireplace has less than 2 inches of clearance 3 or more is ideal. Once you get the chimney connected the rest is pretty straightforward.
Thank you! We have a huge hole. Going to do some soap stone work to tighten it up and get a little extra mass. Thank you again,
Eric
@@ericwiltz6584 one other tip. Buy a liner made from 316 stainless not 308 as the 316 is more corrosion resistant
Any experience with the unit puffing out smoke? I am guessing that a cleaning is in order but we just had it installed in December of 2022.
You should not need a cleaning if you follow the recommended hot burns. Those are best done when you start a fire 🔥. Where is the smoke coming from? Is it when you open the door or during operation. If it is during operation you might have pockets of moisture or in some types of wood gas that puffs inside the stove so that it will come out. If that is the case open your damper some and the smoke will go up the stack instead. I recommend you use a moisture meter if your wood is less than a year seasoned.
The key to not puffing smoke is to turn the air intake all the way up and first just crack the door open. Once you get that draft kicking, slowly open the door.
Having an issue with a lot of build up on the glass and in the flue. What do you think is the best way to remedy this? Should I leave the draft open and or not push the bypass in for the catalytic converter?
You may have buildup on the converters restricting your flow. this happened to me even though i only operated in the safe heat range. here is a video that tell you how to check ua-cam.com/video/DQN_WIU2_Ug/v-deo.html. if your converters are ok then make sure you get the fire going fast. use the fan and build a hot fire regularly. instead of keeping a flame fire going build a bigger hotter fire then let the heat life of the stove keep the house warm. rebuild the fire while you still have coals to do so. this method has worked well for me. let me know how it goes.
@@honeybeehomesteading Thank you.
You're saying, if it gets too hot or out of catalytic range, to open the bypass and that should help cool it down?
Opening the bypass will protect your converters. Turning on the fan will cool your stove. If it gets too hold open the bypass and turn on the fan. Once it cools back down into the safe range close your bypass but keep your fan on. You can adjust the fan to help maintain the stove in the ideal temperature range.
@@honeybeehomesteadingthanks, you are correct in saying that these stoves need to be watched. I have trouble every time with soot collecting in the bottom corners of the glass pane.
@@AlBernhardt Yes I have to clean the glass daily. A single edge razor blade works pretty good for the sooty stuff and steel wool for the lighter stuff. I use a sharpening stone on the razor blade before I use it as I was blazing through blades.
Sitting here, babysitting the fire and had a thought. Too bad there wasn't a way to connect the blower fan and the catalyst active needle. As the fire heats up and the needle rises in the catalyst active range, so should the blower fan speed. Would make it easier babysitting the fire, by the sound the the blower fan....
@@AlBernhardt something I did do to make it a little easier was to add a remote switch to the fan. I also keep a small penlight on my mantle for checking the temperature. The variable heat thermostat is a idea I like
With the demand to keep the temp under control, does it create an issue for long burns if you leave the house or go to sleep?
The long heat life means you can build a fire at 7 pm, By 9 pm you should have only coals and a steady temp then you can go to bed and still have heat and coals in the morning. This stove has the longest heat life of any stove I have found. if you want to do a unattended burn you can always open the bypass if you have to leave the fire unattended and it has allot of wood in it. lower btu wood is another option, i have been burning hickory and its coals burn really hot, regular oak doesn't burn as hot.
how much, approximately, does it cost?
With tax we got ours for 5k. You can get a Vermont castings Montpelier 2 wood insert which has the same size firebox and approximately the same efficiency for 1500 less. The difference is in the heat life. Clydesdale is 24 hr vs the Vermont at only 7. That means you are going to have to feed the fire 4 times a day and you will use more wood and will not have such even heating. The extra cost is well worth the money IMHO.
Thanks for the video….how do you know when to open and close the catalytic converter control?
I keep mine open for a period of time until it really gets going and then I close it….please give detail instructions on how to use that control….thank you!
It will vary with the size of fire you build. From a dead cold stove you will need about 30 minutes for it to reach operating temperature. Cheech the temperature gauge in the corner to make sure it is warm enough to close. Now here is where it can get tricky. If you are burning seasoned hardwood which is all you should be burning I have found that the stove will heat on only one stick of wood. If you load three or four sticks I have found there is a period when the logs are about half burnt that the stove will run too hot for the converters. It is when you still have flame but also lots of coals. Even with the damper fully closed it can get too warm. You can cool it off running the blower, easiest is just to burn smaller amounts of wood. I like one or 2 only unless it is really cold out. There is no problem leaving the converters active while you let the fire burn out. It is only with a new fire when the box is too cold that this will be a issue. it will take a little time getting used to running with the bypass but it is a great feature. Older stoves had to have their converters replaced every few years. Properly run these converters should not need to be replaced.
Thank you
Just had out new Clydesdale installed. Does the indicator needle on the cat probe interfere with the surround bracket. Didn't know if my catalyst thermometer was damaged.
There is room but if the installer isn't careful he can damage it by hitting the surround. Have you done a break in fire yet? . The instructions for the break in fire are in the manual. Your thermometer should start working after about 45 min if it is undamaged. It takes a good while for the mass to heat up especially with the tiny break in fire.
@@honeybeehomesteading Thanks for answering my question. Spoke to the installer and it sounds like this is a problem from the manufacturer. No solutions yet. Thanks for putting up the video. Your right no one else has done a video on the Clydesdale.
hello i just got the clydesdale installed in my house. Love it so far. which settings do you find give you best results for burn time? sometimes with the catalytic converter engaged the flame goes out. even with the temperature on the higher side. thanks.
Catalytic converter engaged. Damper set to almost fully closed. Flush with the ash catch. If you are having trouble with the flame going out there are several factors that could be happening. First and foremost what is the moisture content of the wood. You want to use firewood that has been seasoned for at least 10 months. The size of your logs and the number of logs also plays a role. Three small logs will burn better and faster than one big one I typically load one large thick log along with 2 small logs. The firebox will stay much warmer and extent the heat life with the converters engaged so bypass them only when needed. Type of firewood also plays a part. Burn oak maple hickory. For starting fires poplar can't be beat. Never burn pine even just as kindling.
I thought of something else that might be your problem. It is very unlikely unless you burned some high moisture wood or if you have run the unit for hours on bypass mode. Your converters might be clogged. You can easily inspect them on a cold stove by removing the 2 Ceiling plates which just slip out. If they are clogged you may be able to clean them by running the stove with the bypass open until you get almost to the top of the safe converter range on the thermometer. Close the bypass and keep a eye on your temp so that it doesn't get too hot. I would recommend loading with a clean fast burning wood like poplar. With the converters engaged you should have a nice fire but not raging. If your secondary combustion is not working then you stove is too cold. Hope this helps let me know how it goes.
I think I found your problem and how to fix it as mine started doing the same thing. Here is a short video of the fix. ua-cam.com/video/DQN_WIU2_Ug/v-deo.html
I have the Lopi stove without the catalytic converter. It’s still 71% efficient and can do a 12 hour burn.
Is it one of their cast iron stoves? Like hearthstone they use European castings and are quite nice stoves.
@@honeybeehomesteading The door is cast iron but the rest of it is made out of 1/4 inch steel and the baffle out of 5/16ths steel. It’s their large fireplace insert to be clear.
@@tacitus7 the stove looks to be the about the same btu wise. I really like that it has rollers to make install easier. Mine is a whopping 550# and I used cornmeal to help slide it in. Heat life is half that of my stove but 12 hrs is as they say good enough. Vermont castings stove of similar size has only a 8 hr burn time which I think is too short. I find states burn time are about 20 percent less than real world. You can get the stoves to burn the advertised heat life but you have to load the firebox to the top and run the fire just so. It's a little to much hassle imo. Mine is advertised as 24 hr heat life. I don't load the box heavy and the fire will still remain for 12 hrs so I don't have to relight.
We just had the same stove installed. I am disappointed in two things. The biggest one is the amount of air being pushed by the blowers. I am wondering if it is due to our surround being installed too low and pinching that airflow. I have searched for a video showing how to remove and install the surround but can't seem to find one. Is it easy? I did find the instructions but they are not very detailed. Additionally, in the instructions it shows "surround leveling bracket" and I can't seem to see them and wonder if they were not installed, therefore the surround is collapsing and pinching off the air flow of the blowers. I am hoping this can be adjusted. The second thing is long burn times. I can't seem to keep a fire going for more than 2 hours. The stove stays hot with coals for 4-6 hours and warm for us to 12 hours. I am wondering if my longs are too thin. What size logs are you putting in to get those long burn times that you are talking about? Thank you for posting these videos!
Your surround may not be too low. The stove may be set too far back. Look at the front top of the stove. You will see acast iron plate with slots in it. All the forced air heat comes out of those. To effective use those make sure your firebox is hot enough and your fan speed is fast enough. As far as heat life here are some pointers. Burn 4x4 pieces of hardwood, white oak and hickory are the best but any oak will do good. Remember wood fuel amount is the same for all wood. The heavier the piece the more fuel it has. If you start a fire with smaller pieces that is fine once you have coals switch to one or 2 big pieces of firewood. Don't remove your ash until it is full as it helps keep your coals. Once your fire is rolling reduce your air intake on the front of the stove. Try this and let me know how it goes.
@@honeybeehomesteading Thank you. I do see the plate you are talking about. I have a feeling the stove is pushed too far back. I can barely see one full row of the slots and ultimately only the middle third is out from under the surround. I am guessing I will need to have the installers back to adjust this? Also, it sounds like you use much thicker firewood. I was using long pieces but only 1"x2" to 1"x3". I will try tonight with larger pieces after I get the fire going with smaller pieces. I let it cool off today to try and figure out how to remove the surround. Sadly, I had no luck with that.
@@joerider6560 I would let your installers deal with the surround. It is anchored to the stove by a couple of brackets. it is a real pain. You should be able to see 3 rows easily. This puts the edge of the stove by the door 1 1/2 inches out from the surround and 3 inches out at the top. Your installer should not bill you for any adjustments.there are small leveling brackets that are used only if needed to the bottom of the surround. the other brackets you cannot see.
@@honeybeehomesteading I used bigger pieces of wood like you recommended and it worked much better. I'd say closer to 6 hours of burn time but I will say my pieces were not 4x4 but bigger than what I was using. I was able to pull that plate out and wedge a steel punch under the surround to lift it up .25" and the airflow is significantly higher. I am working with the installers to come back and adjust things. Fingers crossed.
Hi, did you install this yourself? Assuming you also installed a chimney liner/sleeve, can you tell me where you purchased that from?
Yes i installed it myself. i purchased the liner on amazon as i wanted a 316 stainless not a 308 stainless liner as 316 offers more corrosion resistance. i also wanted the larger cap. Amazon was also cheaper than my local dealer but they were great and would have bought from them if they had had what i wanted. tip when you install the linear it is a good idea to also stuff the sides with bare insulation.
Welcome to the Hearthstone family - it's going to get cold tonight in the Midwest - stay warm. I'm on a second season with the Manchester, which appears to be a comparable unit to the Clydesdale. I can confirm the 10-12 hour burn time for usable coals to reignite the next load. I've been able to get away with an ash clean out once every 4-6 weeks, without too much notice on performance (before the ash takes up volume in the firebox and the catalysts get clogged).
I'm curious if the fireplace bricks also act like a thermal mass heat sink, with the firebox insert concept? I've just recently been introduced to masonry heater designs - the soapstone stoves appears to emulate the concept.
I also own a Manchester that is 4 years old and is pre converter but also has the soap stone. Both stoves have long heat life and they are the closest thing to a masonry unit you can buy. The soap stone in combination with cast iron gives you a heat life 4 times that of a cast iron and firebrick stove. I am looking at Vermont castings as a example. For the work reduction the hearthstone stoves can't be beat in my opinion. I think anyone wanting to upgrade Thier stove heat life should be top on their list of things to consider. How much wood are you using and what size space are you heating? By my calculations switching to the new stove will cut my wood consumption in half down to one cord for 2300 sqr ft.
@@ckriskinser1976 Last season I went through 10 face cords (3 & 1/3 cords) of quartered Oak, seasoned below 20% moisture for a 1,000 sqr ft., 1 story home. I burn 24/7 with the NG central unit idol all season and run the home a little hot, keeping it in the 80s. I've got R11 insulation for exterior walls, with newer windows and R14 on the vaulted roof.
Having gone on forums, I've found the wood stove community is mixed on both catalysts and soapstones. The Blaze King boys seem to be critical of any added value of soapstone, suggesting that the heat life is merely delayed, not extended, on the back end of the burn. The masonry heaters appear to be works of art, and seem next level. Listening to some streams, the owners swear by the method of slow release of radiant heat from a thermal mass.
that vaulted roof is really eating your wood. Like you i heat 24-7. Blaze king is right in that the heat is delayed but are wrong in the fact that soap stone also captures more heat as opposed to having it go up the stack. After heating with a steel stove insert i can attest that the soap stone keeps your house much more evenly heated and uses half the amount of wood. A lot less work all around. But steel stoves are a good pick for areas that need to be heated quickly but not often. they would be my first pick for a off grid cabin.
Hey I have to make the final decision to heat our home here in Maine. I would appreciate if someone could tell me if the Clydesdale would heat as well as a vac defiant or big jotul. I heard an Doesnt really give you the heat you expect from a wood stove? Would appreciate a respond. Hard decision because the insert would look so nice in my existing fireplace 😢
It does not give you quick heat, it gives you long lasting heat which is a big plus in my book. I have seen the Vermont insert, I did not like it at all as it's firebox was much smaller. If you are wanting to compare inserts vs freestanding well I have both the Clydesdale insert and Manchester woodstove. Both will give you great heat but without a fan the Manchester will be slower to heat a cold room. You can heat more effectively with it by installing a cold air intake. That is not a option on the insert. You didn't say the sqr ft of your place and of course it depends on your house layout and insulation. I heat 2300 sq ft even on the coldest of days with both wood stoves and me not having to tend to them much. Either stove can very effectively heat 1500 sqr ft and probably 2000 but you will need to run the stove hot and keep it fueled. Jotul makes a good stove but I do not know how good the heat life is.long heat life will keep you much more comfortable.
@@honeybeehomesteading I have the Vermont Castings Montpelier II which is their largest insert. I am in Maine and it has been great for being able to heat the whole 1st floor of our house. It burns pretty efficiently and almost no smoke or odor comes out of the chimney once the fire is going good. In a previous house, I have had both a large Jotul and a Vermont Castings Defiant. This insert does a better job than either of those stoves.
@@dewarner12 @dewarner12 the Vermont is a much more affordable option. What I didn't like about it was the small door. On top of having a small door it has those cast iron glass protectors in the front which makes it impossible to load larger logs. I like to load 6 x8 logs for longer burns which seems impossible with that stove. The Vermont claims it can heat 400 sq ft more than the Clydesdale but there are no btu specs or heat life. That being said it is a good looking stove it just needs a bigger door imo
@@honeybeehomesteading You may be thinking about the Vermont Castings Gifford, which is their smaller unit. The Montpeilier II has a 10"x22" door opening which allows for large 16" splits and long burn times.
@@dewarner12 it must have been, thank you for pointing that out.. My stove has a 10 1/2 by 22 opening which is plenty. That should be all anyone should ever need. I always loved the look of the defiant stoves. The alderlea by Pacific energy is the best looking insert IMHO. It is too bad it is a steel stove with a cast iron facade.
For 2023 stoves there is a 30% tax credit up to $2000 which includes all required installation accessories and labor.
Yes that was my motivation to replace my old stove.
dont u loose most that heat up the chimney? and doesnt it condensate in attic?
No having most of the heat go up the chimney is from fireplaces. Wood fireplaces have a average of about 15 percent effeciency. Meaning that 85percent of the heat is lost up the chimney. Old Wood stoves achieved about 60 percent. This stove has a effeciency of 79 percent meaning you loose only 21 percent of the heat. This is about the maximum achievable as you have to have some heat loss to carry away the smoke. Attics are unaffected by the type of heat. You will have the same amount of condensation if with a wood stove vs gas heat. You should not have condensation with either if your attic is properly vented.
@@honeybeehomesteading I'm not talking about heat going up the stove pipe I'm talking about it going up the chimney around the stove pipe
@@redsresearch there is a stainless steel plate I installed at the fireplace box. This is not needed really as I also packed fiberglass insulation around the liner in the old chimney. I then used silicon to seal the new cap to the old chimney clay tile. It is 100 percent airtight.
@@honeybeehomesteading y didnt you show the plate
@@redsresearchI didn't show the plate as there is no room to see it with the stove in place, without the surround there is only one inch of clearance between the stove and the top of the fireplace opening. You don't have to have the plate as long as you stuff insulation beside the pipe, i did mine 6 ft down and wish i had done more. i do have insulation above the plate as well.
Uh, uh, uh
I know uh or um I say it often especially at the beginning It is hard not too. I try to make up for it with quality content.