I have got to hand it to you, FINE JOB, SIR!!! What many folks may not realize is, actually how hard manufacturing one of Gingery's machines are to do, never mind how crazy a person has to be to attempt one, lol.... These series of machine to the untrained eye, may look crude, they are actually a statement, a badge of honor, especially if the person finishes one, as many do not. I have mentioned to many folks, that if they desire an education into all sorts of metal working, to acquire his book and to put forth the effort to read and understand and most of all, build one of the series. So much can be learned from these ventures, for the beginner to the master journeyman, that is a fact. Again, good job sir! Drew
It's great seeing your success with the Gingery lathe. I dreamed about building one back in the 80s in college. I managed to buy an old Atlas 10" a few years ago, but have put a lot that I learned from Gingery into various accessories and mods. I'll certainly be following your progress. Thanks for sharing!
Great video the fabrication of a Gingery lathe. I like your style of presentation with just enough information to have us follow along and understand the principles. I am looking forward to following your series. Thanks, Paul
this is Amazing! I have been wanting to make a Gingery Lathe for at least a year wondering how much this project entails. I've only seen this and the intro video, but I wanted to thank you for taking all the extra time to document this build. although a big undertaking, I may still follow your video to make this lathe soon .
You did a really nice job on the editing of the video. You clearly show the basics of the process, with good quality camera angles, and do not ramble. I watched the whole thing. It would be interesting to see how the scraping process works.
Hi, great to see somebody building the Gingery lathe. Like others, I've wanted to build it myself since the 1980s but life got in the way . . . ;-) I built my own version of his charcoal furnace about 5 years ago, using a 13Kg propane tank as a shell but found that charcoal was messy and slow so re-vamped the furnace lining to use a tougher refractory mix and built a propane burner bases on Mike Porter's design. I, too started with a stainless steel pot for a crucible but soon made a steel one from part of a carbon dioxide tank (about 5" diameter) The improved furnace and burner allow me to melt a full load of aluminium in about 20 minutes - I use alloy car wheels to feed the furnace. I was thinking about building the lathe first but I already have a 10" Halifax (like an Atlas but made in the UK) so I made the patterns for the shaper. Then I was offered an Atlas 7B shaper for a very, very good price so the Gingery shaper never got done. Thought I would start on the milling machine . . . Bought a secondhand miniature lathe on eBay and discovered that it came with a ready-made Gingery mill! What it didn't come with was a 'tail-stand' and a universal compound as Gingery calls them, so I'm in the process of making them right now - in fact I finished pouring the final castings yesterday evening. I've been making castings for other purposes for the last 5 years or so, and would like to say that I like your setup. Couple of comments though - if you ever need to reduce cat litter again just soak it in water until it turns into a slurry, then dry it out if you have to or add it to the sand and let that dry out . . . One thing that worries me about your technique is that you're pouring molten aluminium towards yourself - if anything went wrong your hand would be covered in molten metal. Can you arrange to pour it away from your hand in any way? My own crucible has two hooks at the top and a loop at the bottom. I made a removable handle for the top to lift it and a 1/4" round bar hook which goes in the loop - just raising the hand holding the hook automatically pours the metal while the pouring lip is facing away from me. Great job - absolutely no criticism intended. But stay safe.
Thanks for sharing. The lathe, shaper, and mill are involved projects. I am nearing completion of the lathe. I am not sure if I will continue the series but maybe. I will check out Mike Porters design as I am in need of a better portable gas fired foundry.
Also check out myfordboy's UA-cam channel - he has a design for a propane burner on his blog. Or I can show you my burner if you would be interested - it's very easy to make.
you prolly dont give a shit but if you are stoned like me during the covid times then you can stream all the latest movies on instaflixxer. I've been binge watching with my brother recently =)
Nice video with good explanation I have built the Gingery lathe and it really is a good project. I already want to start building the milling machine. Good Luck!
+Micscience Thanks. I really have enjoyed it. I checked out some of your videos...good stuff! Kudos. Do you think you will make the shaper? Or straight into the mill?
+Makercise Straight to the mill! The reason why would be so I can cut flats without having to go to the lathe and it will be a good tool for metal casting as well. Though a lot of people like the shaper build which is great because of the big castings that are involved in the project.
Man. My forced air propane foundry was way too strong. I use a shop vac in reverse, speed controlled with a router control knob. But my ingots kept sticking to the muffin pans, soda cans outright disintegrated before melting, and a whole metal mess would stick to the sides of my clay crucibles. Oh, and I kept cutting through my pipe that fed into the foundry (the flame would make a complete lap around the sides all the way around to the pipe. Wrecked I think 4-5 that way). And even with these issues, aluminum was the only metal consistently melting into semi presentable ingots. Though my silver sample wasn't much of it, it seemed to just burn to the sides of the crucible. Copper was similar. By the time I got it out, it was like a brittle glass. It became frustrating. I decided that I needed an IR thermometer with high temp capabilities. Got one that went to 1922F (1050C I believe), and in 5-10 min, my foundry was too hot for it to register. And I was considering adding an oxygen condenser into the forced air... probably would have melted the foundry. IR Thermometer was money well spent. And I suggest everyone that has a foundry do the same. Mine only cost $35 on Amazon, when not even a year ago I only found one that could measure above 1200F, and it cost $600 (granted, it measured something insane like 3600F), but those were the only choices
good work man. I like to wash off soda cans with acetone to get the paint off. A good idea would be to get a hammer press to forge your aluminum into bar stock.
Great to see another person taking on the Gingery machines. I bought the series of books back in the 80's. I never built the machines because, I found some really good deals on a used lathe, mill/drill and had a small shaper given to me. I still admire anyone who takes on the challenge, though. Somewhere around here, I have the video made by Dave Gingery himself, on the foundry and metal casting. Everyone pronounces his last name wrong, though. He pronounced it Gingery, with hard "Gs", like ding, ping or thing and not like ginger ale. Sorry, I just had to set the record straight. Keep up the good work!
Thanks for commenting! I am up to the point now where I am boring the permanent head stock so more to come for sure. Thanks for confirming the pronunciation. I suspected that was the case but went with the way all the cool kids were saying it.
I wondering how amazing are your final job with this Gingery lathe, here in brazil we seldom can use services as vertica/horizontal milling so the hand scraping and file are good tools for we use, to u understand a good quality granite surface plate as your here spend same a lathe there
Better late than never i guess. Im watching this late hehe. This inspires me a lot! Think when my forge setup is runnig i must make a vice for the drill stand. I can buy one but its fun to build and one learns and gains new experience
Hi, I am enjoying watching your progress with the lathe, I can't help noticing that there is too much movement in your headstock -as you know,any movement is too much- when the lathe is running, why not brace the headstock against the motor assembly with some more 1" square steel tubing and ditch those wooden blocks in favour of 18" x 9" x 3" concrete blocks which you could bolt down the bedway securely? I wish you well and hope my suggestions do not irritate you-I just want to see you succeed with your bold project. Regards-gregor
Your comment is exactly the type I was soliciting. I probably need to move to a dedicated table and the square tube brace was one idea I was entertaining. Thanks for the feedback. It's far from irritating. :)
Just went back to this video because I wanted to show something to my father and I see you slowly pushing an aluminium piece over the cluttered surface plate XD
When I made my crucible and lifter I made sure I could get as far away from the aluminum as possible. I am not an expert and this is just my opinion, but after hearing from another engineer who apprenticed at a foundry about someone burning through their boots and through their foot skin, I was keen to stay away from the molten metal. I heard also that molten aluminum travels very far. We never got to the pattern making part for the gingery lathe and used almost exclusively lost foam casting for the few parts we cast. I would encourage you to find a hackrrspace/makerspace where others have done this if at all possible as this is extraordinarily dangerous.
Great explanation of showing the production of a Gingery lathe, I'm a visual person and this really helps to see the process. I haven't personally poured metal outside a few samples I have taken, but I am a metallurgical engineer that's been around aluminum continuous casting for 2 years and iron green sand casting for 2 years now. I was a little concerned when I saw the method of pouring by holding the weight out in front of you and pouring towards yourself - it seemed like this could lead to dropping the crucible and not very ergonomic. I've commonly seen a two person system pouring out the side of a crucible that allows for much better control of pouring and I would recommend getting a second person properly trained to work around the molten metal to help you pour. It looked like you had decent steel-toed boots (I couldn't fully tell from the video), but for the general public, make sure you have the shoelaces covered so that the metal cannot freeze up in the shoelaces, possibly trapping your foot inside (we had metatarsals where I worked) and I would also recommend to have spats over the shoes that also help protect your lower legs. Ideally you would also have a full length protective coat on as well instead of the apron and jeans as you don't even want the chance of aluminum getting through to your skin. I agree with Matthew that an extremely healthy respect for the dangers involved are necessary in working with burners, crucibles, and molten metal. Great things are possible in working with molten metal, but everyone need to be sure to do as much research as you can on safety - it looks like you do a good job of respecting the molten metal in the video, just a few things I noticed in watching this first clip of metal pouring.
I've seen most of your videos on the lathe, (and by other UA-camr's). I'd really like to own a mini lathe, but I wonder if I have the skill set to build this. I own an average Chineseium floor standing drill press, and have a table saw, router, scroll saw, a Ryobi mini wood lathe, and a few other wood working tools. Making patterns shouldn't be an issue, though I wonder if the lost foam method would work better than the traditional green sand molds. (maybe for the smaller parts). I guess I should try building some variation of the charcoal furnace (I actually started building one around a flower pot). It could always be upgraded to burn propane. While expensive I think I'd be better off buying 'ceramic' crucibles rather than using cast off steel containers such as propane cylinders. I have the 7 book in 1 Ginger 'bible' on the home workshop, bought it when Lindsay was having his 'going out of business' sale. You make the build process look easier than it probably is. I've heard a lot of negative comments on the Ginger lathe, mostly that it's not rigid enough, and the aluminum castings leave much to be desired as opposed to steel. Some people have mastered melting and casting iron, but I think that's probably a bit too dangerous for an amateur to do in the back yard. I've also seen youtube videos on lathes built from home depot steel members, and Chineseium linear rails and bearings. Some welded the parts, others just drilled, tapped and bolted them together. Lots of options out there, factory made bearings vs boring your own. Where did you get the cold rolled steel used for the ways? How did you get it cut to size? It seems to me that this part is critical to the operation of the lathe (hence the reason why others have used available linear rails), and that accurate machining of this is crucial. Something that I don't know if I could do with simple home tools. IIRC, Gingery mentioned getting this cut by the supplier.
Would you consider using Zinc-Aluminum alloy for a coming project in the Gingery sequence (or similar projects)? I am reading that it does have some better properties than pure Alluminum.
First let me say that building a metal lathe that you cast the parts for yourself seems like a monumental achievement... Secondly I came over at Doug's urging from S/V Seeker. Lastly, funnily enough, I saw your ginger beard on the S/V Seeker live stream vid and being a redhead myself I thought it was interesting that you called it a Gingery Metal Lathe... until I found out it is named for David Gingery! Hahahahahaha
you are quite inspiring. Sure do enjoy seeing the process of casting aluminum. Would you mind saying where you found out about the keorsene furnace. I think that desing looks simple and effective. Also, did you make your own crusible tongues?
Thanks! I hope to have even more metal melting in future videos. Stay tuned. The tongs were my first welding project. Here is a link to the video showing the kwiky burner fab by David D: ua-cam.com/video/E-l21wQ6X-E/v-deo.html
Hello, I watched all your videos and I like the way you work. I bought the Gingery collection and I start building the metal lathe. Could you tell me what is the width of the steel ways and the height of the bed of your lathe? Thank you for your videos and for the attention you will give to my request.
Jean 3xyz i use 3"x1/4" 1018 CRS for bef ways. The bed is about 1/4" taller than the book dimensions. The feet on my lathe are too short...error making pattern.
Finding aluminum scrap has turned out to be difficult for me. Did you buy your scrap from a scrap yard, or was it gifted? There are lots of abandoned vehicles in my city, but you can get in trouble for dismantling or removing them.
I will have to go through your videos to see if you address this, but I was wondering about the whole aluminum / steel galvanic corrossion issue as of late. How much have you seen? Did you change up the design at all?
Что насчет разного температурного коэффициента расширения? Алюминиевая основа и стальная плита будут удлинятся по разному и вся конструкция будет изгибаться. Не пробовали измерять изгиб?
I have watched this series several times and have enjoyed it extremely. You did an outstanding job on this. I have purchase David Gingery's books and am going to attempt to build this. I am one of those guy's that always wants to modify thing to fit my needs. That being said, I am going to build all my patterns and assemble it first to see what I might want to change. My question for you is; did you find any drawbacks with the lathe you built and what changes do you wish you had made along the way?
which is more cost effective.... Waste Oil! go visit you local mechanics and more often than not unless disallowed by law in your area they will gladly give it to you. Saves them paying for disposal
Would it be possible to just by some aluminium/steel beam in the appropriate size and therefore avoid the whole casting process? It seems like the casting is somewhat hit-and-miss. Is there something I'm missing?
Building a lathe in this fashion will create a functioning machine, but I'd only recommend this project if someone wants to learn skills like casting, scraping, and machining. For someone who wants a lathe but isn't interested in learning through the project or already has those skills, I'd recommend spending $500-$1000 to get a much higher quality used lathe without the hundreds or thousands of hours to build a machine shop from scratch. It's all about what you want. I have seen many variations, including a fellow in Iran who built a lathe from a piece of scrap hot-rolled H-beam. I wanted to tackle the project as described in the book series with minimal variations, learning as I go, and I love casting. It is a great fit for me and some others but not everyone. Hope this helps.
What is the sand mix you use for casting? Because my castings do not come out looking as good as yours. Not that I expect them to look that good cause I am still a novice. When I cast I will get bits of sand casted to the metal and when I remove the sand from the metal, I get holes left behind
How does this rigid technique differ from filling the base with concrete? The Taig base is alluminum filled with concrete and has a large community sharing mods. Their finished part is practically perfect.
In part one on the lathe in the book it shows securing the bed with two short screws and two long screws. In your video you had a boat load of screws attaching the bed to the ways.could you please tell me why you did it that way.
Great work - I have one question for you - did you figure out what the two cast plates were for from the Charcoal Foundry book? Were they needed? I think they were the first recommended pour... (I'm just about ready to make my first casting)
Great video! I'm thinking of starting this project soon. Did you make any changes to the bed design? I see you have two rows of screws for the ways, but otherwise are your dimensions the same? And are you using plain aluminum, or another alloy?
+John Moody I did not cast the slots in addition to opting for the two rows of fasteners. Otherwise Gingery specifications. I had a friend from work give me an old engine block and transmission case that I broke down in the fire pit. The automotive castings were made from alloys that are particularly suited to that task. During the project however, I have undoubtedly intermixed ingots that came from things like aluminum baking pans (irony aluminum?), cans, and extrusions. I'd say 80% of the ingots in my project originated from the engine and transmission.
Thanks for the video - really informative. I have just received the Gingery books and am looking to build my own lathe next year. I have been looking online for ways to improve the lathe as I have heard the bed has some issues with flexing. I see you have beefed up the legs and used 2 rows of screws to connect the ways to the bed which is what I was thinking of doing. Did you change the dimensions of the ways or did you keep them the same width as Gingery designed? Some people have suggested making them 4 inches wide but I was put off that idea as it requires altering almost all of the other patterns! Thanks, Chris
+GC Bushcraft The legs are beefier, but I doubt they will have a big impact on overall bed rigidity. Both the bed and the ways are the dimensions specified in the Gingery book. I saw some of the discussions and videos advocating larger beds, but I decided to stick with the book's design to simplify the construction process among other reasons. As you note, changing dimensions of one part has a cascading effect on other patterns. Furthermore, I had concerns about the volume of the mold cavity exceeding my crucible capacity. Good luck with your build. If you are on facebook, consider sharing some pictures with me on facebook once you get the process started. facebook.com/makercise Thanks for the encouragement and for commenting.
Hi, I notice that you talked about switching over to kerosene at 1:18 or so. Did you build a kero burner? Are they much different than the waste oil burners you see on the DIY metal casting vids? Any reason you chose kerosene vs waste oil or propane? Great series of videos, I am eager to see more from your channel, it looks very promising.
I just updated the description with a link to video I followed to build the burner. Waste oil is more viscous than kerosene, and may have a higher flash point iirc. Regardless, I find kero much easier to light and keep running. I chose the kero over propane with the thought that I could use waste oil to keep cost down. My wife picked up a 2kw electric kiln for $10 at a thrift store. Look for it to replace the kero foundry for most jobs. Way slower but way more convenient.
Cost probably a couple hundred. It was not easy to build. It is not a highly economical lathe if you count the 1000 +/-500 hours it took to build. The chief benefit are the skills learned.
great projects, keep up the good job, I have 2 questions for you or others, what size crucible did you use as I wish to make this project and can the size of lathe bed be longer.
Great Video! I recently got the books and am looking to dive in and make one. I noticed you attached the bed differently than suggested in the book, where did you get that suggestion? I want to take advantage of any post 1980 technology to make any improvements. Best of luck to your channel.
I made the modification based on my own perception of molding ease. The slots seemed like a pain to mold. I don't recall seeing fasteners exactly like I did them...it just seemed like a good idea. Check out Morgan Demers videos if you haven't already. I appreciate the well wishes.
I have a question. I got a smaller surface plate but I'm worried about hand scrapping the bed. I got a 12" x 18" granite surface plate. I don't have any dial indicators or anything.
I looked at getting the 12x18 plate, but opted for the bigger one to get the full length. You could possibly shorten the bed to ~20 if you work diagonally or offset spotting by a few inches to get the full length. I wouldn't worry too much. Getting started and maintaining inertia are the hardest parts. Try not to think about it too hard or get bogged down. If you have a harbor freight near by dial indicators can be had cheaply; plus I don't think you need one to scrape.
Hi. Great videos. I've been trying to make the mould for the bed, I'm not sure if you can help. But if possible? I'm so close but keep hitting up against the same problem. In the final stage when I have rolled the flask over the second time and about to remove the cope. When I lift the cope. The sand breaks apart above and horizontal to the pattern. When I remove the sand from above the drag and lift the pattern off, the drag is perfect. I've tried packing it tighter on one try then looser on another. Any ideas? Thanks.
At first shot I'd say more parting powder and more rapping on the cope. When you roll the cope initially, remove the pattern before ramming up the drag. That way you can ram it tight yet feel confident it will extract. Be sure your flask has ribs. If your sand seems to have good green strength otherwise and bonds well, perhaps try using a 1/8" rod through the cope sand and rapping the pattern using the rod in addition to rapping the cope. You may also try varying how much water you add to the sand and how extensively you mull the part. My pattern has more than 5 degrees of draft and health fillets inside and out. Arrange a work surface that puts the mold slightly above your waste but below your elbows with a slight bend in your knees. Use your legs to separate the mold versus biceps. The bed is the most challenging part I have ever molded, so hang in there. I took at least 3 or 4 tries. There are a lot of variations of other was to mold like using cores inside the mold. I haven't tried using sodium silicate yet, but that may be an option you could try. Finally, I am really hooked on lost foam casting. For difficult parts to mold like the lathe bed and shaper columns, I think there is a compelling advantage to using that technique. I am investigating supplying foam pattens. Be sure you are on the email list if you think you'd like to guinea pig such a product. I will be sending out info through that channel first if things workout.
Thanks. I appreciate your feedback. The sand holds well in the top of the cope and in the drag. The pattern separates easily and cleanly from the drag. I hadn't thought of removing the pattern from the cope then re inserting before ramming up the drag.
What is it that you are using for a flat reference? Thanks in advance, love the videos. Just starting to get the parts together to attempt this with a friend. I find the videos really helpful.
I enjoy your videos. For some reason your lathe looks bigger. Did you increased the size of the lathe over than what the book calls for? Keep up the good work.
No the book does not. Gingery presumes some use of modern technology to mimic the path that early machine builders would have taken. Cold rolled steel is a relatively modern material. For that matter aluminum, high speed steel, and threaded fasteners are also. 100% would be cool, but would be exponentially (possibly factorially) harder to pull off. The book series is best seen as a simulated walk down the path of machine tool history making allowance for many modern materials and tools to help the process along.
noah he I think my patterns are the parts to which you refer. I use mostly wood patterns. I will release a video tomorrow where I use a 3d printed patterns. Some of the other videos in the series go into pattern construction.
+Nocturnal yes I did. The process was very similar to the set I made for my lightweight propane foundry. If you check out that video, the tong fabrication is about 2/3 through.
hamza mln the pattern is made from wood on a table saw. it isn't dissolved. it must be removed from the mold. this is why having draft and a parting line is an important design consideration in pattern making. part 9 of the Playlist has more details on the process.
Too much mass, you are limited to the amount of metal that you can fit in the crucible, and you want the feet/ways to be as massive as possible. The feet would have taken too much metal away from the crucible to complete the cast.
Did you really Steal Bean Can!!! why? are they worth stealing....? :) You made me Grin I just wanted to return the favour . Nice video, thank's for sharing.........
The green sand I used in part 1 was made from clay kitty litter from Walmart and play sand from Home Depot. I upgraded to Black Diamond and southern bentonite from Lancaster Foundry Supply in Pennsylvania just before casting the headstock. I am not sure if they offer a premixed green sand.
If there are no foundry supply establishments near you,try looking for a supply firm that caters to the people who make pottery. There are a surprising number of materials that are common to both foundry work and pottery making. I get my bentonite and fireclay,as well as castable refractory at a local pottery supply company.
well it's a lathe ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxN9zrzkkhnjUF5PQbuA_B1gYdsfCu9k6z but it wasn't what i would have anticipated. Headstock, tailstock, carriage apron are manufactured from aluminum now not cast iron. The spindle diameter for the bearings is too small allowing for a few play in the spindle so I am using some blue Loctite to take out the play.
I have got to hand it to you, FINE JOB, SIR!!! What many folks may not realize is, actually how hard manufacturing one of Gingery's machines are to do, never mind how crazy a person has to be to attempt one, lol.... These series of machine to the untrained eye, may look crude, they are actually a statement, a badge of honor, especially if the person finishes one, as many do not. I have mentioned to many folks, that if they desire an education into all sorts of metal working, to acquire his book and to put forth the effort to read and understand and most of all, build one of the series. So much can be learned from these ventures, for the beginner to the master journeyman, that is a fact. Again, good job sir! Drew
Love the look of satisfaction when talking about the casting. Good work man.
It's great seeing your success with the Gingery lathe. I dreamed about building one back in the 80s in college. I managed to buy an old Atlas 10" a few years ago, but have put a lot that I learned from Gingery into various accessories and mods. I'll certainly be following your progress. Thanks for sharing!
I love the way you explain in great detail without making me feel stupid, that's hard work
Great video the fabrication of a Gingery lathe. I like your style of presentation with just enough information to have us follow along and understand the principles. I am looking forward to following your series. Thanks, Paul
this is Amazing! I have been wanting to make a Gingery Lathe for at least a year wondering how much this project entails. I've only seen this and the intro video, but I wanted to thank you for taking all the extra time to document this build. although a big undertaking, I may still follow your video to make this lathe soon .
You did a really nice job on the editing of the video. You clearly show the basics of the process, with good quality camera angles, and do not ramble. I watched the whole thing. It would be interesting to see how the scraping process works.
Thanks for the kind words! I believe part 4 and 9 discuss the scraping process more.
本当に凄い。文明がリセットされてもこの人なら全てを復興させられる
Hi, great to see somebody building the Gingery lathe. Like others, I've wanted to build it myself since the 1980s but life got in the way . . . ;-) I built my own version of his charcoal furnace about 5 years ago, using a 13Kg propane tank as a shell but found that charcoal was messy and slow so re-vamped the furnace lining to use a tougher refractory mix and built a propane burner bases on Mike Porter's design. I, too started with a stainless steel pot for a crucible but soon made a steel one from part of a carbon dioxide tank (about 5" diameter) The improved furnace and burner allow me to melt a full load of aluminium in about 20 minutes - I use alloy car wheels to feed the furnace.
I was thinking about building the lathe first but I already have a 10" Halifax (like an Atlas but made in the UK) so I made the patterns for the shaper. Then I was offered an Atlas 7B shaper for a very, very good price so the Gingery shaper never got done. Thought I would start on the milling machine . . . Bought a secondhand miniature lathe on eBay and discovered that it came with a ready-made Gingery mill!
What it didn't come with was a 'tail-stand' and a universal compound as Gingery calls them, so I'm in the process of making them right now - in fact I finished pouring the final castings yesterday evening.
I've been making castings for other purposes for the last 5 years or so, and would like to say that I like your setup. Couple of comments though - if you ever need to reduce cat litter again just soak it in water until it turns into a slurry, then dry it out if you have to or add it to the sand and let that dry out . . .
One thing that worries me about your technique is that you're pouring molten aluminium towards yourself - if anything went wrong your hand would be covered in molten metal. Can you arrange to pour it away from your hand in any way? My own crucible has two hooks at the top and a loop at the bottom. I made a removable handle for the top to lift it and a 1/4" round bar hook which goes in the loop - just raising the hand holding the hook automatically pours the metal while the pouring lip is facing away from me.
Great job - absolutely no criticism intended. But stay safe.
Thanks for sharing. The lathe, shaper, and mill are involved projects. I am nearing completion of the lathe. I am not sure if I will continue the series but maybe. I will check out Mike Porters design as I am in need of a better portable gas fired foundry.
Also check out myfordboy's UA-cam channel - he has a design for a propane burner on his blog. Or I can show you my burner if you would be interested - it's very easy to make.
The mike porter burners are quite good.
I pour at "right angle" to myself, so i agree, not pouring towards yourself would be preferable.
Ganz großes KINO!! Hier hat wirklich ein "Meister" SELBER GEBAUT, Glückwunsch und Danke.
Rock on. Great to see another maker getting a start on UA-cam. The late from scratch is a great project.
Thanks for the encouragement Doug. It really is a big deal to hear it from you.
+Makercise Yeah, well remember me when your famous. :)
you prolly dont give a shit but if you are stoned like me during the covid times then you can stream all the latest movies on instaflixxer. I've been binge watching with my brother recently =)
@Jayce Hayes definitely, been using instaflixxer for since november myself :D
Nice video with good explanation I have built the Gingery lathe and it really is a good project. I already want to start building the milling machine. Good Luck!
+Micscience Thanks. I really have enjoyed it. I checked out some of your videos...good stuff! Kudos. Do you think you will make the shaper? Or straight into the mill?
+Makercise Straight to the mill! The reason why would be so I can cut flats without having to go to the lathe and it will be a good tool for metal casting as well. Though a lot of people like the shaper build which is great because of the big castings that are involved in the project.
I have these books and I’ve been wanting to do this for years.
Lovely. I have been looking for channels like this for a long while.
Man. My forced air propane foundry was way too strong. I use a shop vac in reverse, speed controlled with a router control knob. But my ingots kept sticking to the muffin pans, soda cans outright disintegrated before melting, and a whole metal mess would stick to the sides of my clay crucibles. Oh, and I kept cutting through my pipe that fed into the foundry (the flame would make a complete lap around the sides all the way around to the pipe. Wrecked I think 4-5 that way). And even with these issues, aluminum was the only metal consistently melting into semi presentable ingots. Though my silver sample wasn't much of it, it seemed to just burn to the sides of the crucible. Copper was similar. By the time I got it out, it was like a brittle glass. It became frustrating. I decided that I needed an IR thermometer with high temp capabilities. Got one that went to 1922F (1050C I believe), and in 5-10 min, my foundry was too hot for it to register. And I was considering adding an oxygen condenser into the forced air... probably would have melted the foundry. IR Thermometer was money well spent. And I suggest everyone that has a foundry do the same. Mine only cost $35 on Amazon, when not even a year ago I only found one that could measure above 1200F, and it cost $600 (granted, it measured something insane like 3600F), but those were the only choices
good work man. I like to wash off soda cans with acetone to get the paint off. A good idea would be to get a hammer press to forge your aluminum into bar stock.
Great to see another person taking on the Gingery machines. I bought the series of books back in the 80's. I never built the machines because, I found some really good deals on a used lathe, mill/drill and had a small shaper given to me. I still admire anyone who takes on the challenge, though. Somewhere around here, I have the video made by Dave Gingery himself, on the foundry and metal casting. Everyone pronounces his last name wrong, though. He pronounced it Gingery, with hard "Gs", like ding, ping or thing and not like ginger ale. Sorry, I just had to set the record straight. Keep up the good work!
Thanks for commenting! I am up to the point now where I am boring the permanent head stock so more to come for sure. Thanks for confirming the pronunciation. I suspected that was the case but went with the way all the cool kids were saying it.
I've had Gingery's book for a couple years now....
I wondering how amazing are your final job with this Gingery lathe, here in brazil we seldom can use services as vertica/horizontal milling so the hand scraping and file are good tools for we use, to u understand a good quality granite surface plate as your here spend same a lathe there
Better late than never i guess. Im watching this late hehe. This inspires me a lot! Think when my forge setup is runnig i must make a vice for the drill stand. I can buy one but its fun to build and one learns and gains new experience
Loved the video! It's so cool to watch people make stuff!!
+Joseph Comings The lathe is a neat tool because it "makes" itself. Glad you liked it. Hopefully part 2 will be coming in about a month.
Found you from SV Seeker. Love the presentation style of your lathe build! New sub here, Doug is right you need way more subs for what you are doing!
Thank you very much. Welcome and glad you took the opportunity to check out my channel.
Hi, I am enjoying watching your progress with the lathe, I can't help noticing that there is too much movement in your headstock -as you know,any movement is too much- when the lathe is running, why not brace the headstock against the motor assembly with some more 1" square steel tubing and ditch those wooden blocks in favour of 18" x 9" x 3" concrete blocks which you could bolt down the bedway securely?
I wish you well and hope my suggestions do not irritate you-I just want to see you succeed with your bold project.
Regards-gregor
Your comment is exactly the type I was soliciting. I probably need to move to a dedicated table and the square tube brace was one idea I was entertaining. Thanks for the feedback. It's far from irritating. :)
Just went back to this video because I wanted to show something to my father and I see you slowly pushing an aluminium piece over the cluttered surface plate XD
hello Chris. what are your thoughts on scaling up the length from 29 inches to 36 inches on the bed casting. thanks!
very cool video makercise. this lathe is on my to do list. cheers
I wonder if the bed would be better and easier served by making it out of heavy wall square tube, then bolt the bedways on to the tube?
When I made my crucible and lifter I made sure I could get as far away from the aluminum as possible. I am not an expert and this is just my opinion, but after hearing from another engineer who apprenticed at a foundry about someone burning through their boots and through their foot skin, I was keen to stay away from the molten metal. I heard also that molten aluminum travels very far. We never got to the pattern making part for the gingery lathe and used almost exclusively lost foam casting for the few parts we cast. I would encourage you to find a hackrrspace/makerspace where others have done this if at all possible as this is extraordinarily dangerous.
Great explanation of showing the production of a Gingery lathe, I'm a visual person and this really helps to see the process. I haven't personally poured metal outside a few samples I have taken, but I am a metallurgical engineer that's been around aluminum continuous casting for 2 years and iron green sand casting for 2 years now. I was a little concerned when I saw the method of pouring by holding the weight out in front of you and pouring towards yourself - it seemed like this could lead to dropping the crucible and not very ergonomic. I've commonly seen a two person system pouring out the side of a crucible that allows for much better control of pouring and I would recommend getting a second person properly trained to work around the molten metal to help you pour.
It looked like you had decent steel-toed boots (I couldn't fully tell from the video), but for the general public, make sure you have the shoelaces covered so that the metal cannot freeze up in the shoelaces, possibly trapping your foot inside (we had metatarsals where I worked) and I would also recommend to have spats over the shoes that also help protect your lower legs. Ideally you would also have a full length protective coat on as well instead of the apron and jeans as you don't even want the chance of aluminum getting through to your skin.
I agree with Matthew that an extremely healthy respect for the dangers involved are necessary in working with burners, crucibles, and molten metal. Great things are possible in working with molten metal, but everyone need to be sure to do as much research as you can on safety - it looks like you do a good job of respecting the molten metal in the video, just a few things I noticed in watching this first clip of metal pouring.
I've seen most of your videos on the lathe, (and by other UA-camr's). I'd really like to own a mini lathe, but I wonder if I have the skill set to build this. I own an average Chineseium floor standing drill press, and have a table saw, router, scroll saw, a Ryobi mini wood lathe, and a few other wood working tools. Making patterns shouldn't be an issue, though I wonder if the lost foam method would work better than the traditional green sand molds. (maybe for the smaller parts). I guess I should try building some variation of the charcoal furnace (I actually started building one around a flower pot). It could always be upgraded to burn propane. While expensive I think I'd be better off buying 'ceramic' crucibles rather than using cast off steel containers such as propane cylinders.
I have the 7 book in 1 Ginger 'bible' on the home workshop, bought it when Lindsay was having his 'going out of business' sale. You make the build process look easier than it probably is. I've heard a lot of negative comments on the Ginger lathe, mostly that it's not rigid enough, and the aluminum castings leave much to be desired as opposed to steel. Some people have mastered melting and casting iron, but I think that's probably a bit too dangerous for an amateur to do in the back yard. I've also seen youtube videos on lathes built from home depot steel members, and Chineseium linear rails and bearings. Some welded the parts, others just drilled, tapped and bolted them together. Lots of options out there, factory made bearings vs boring your own.
Where did you get the cold rolled steel used for the ways? How did you get it cut to size? It seems to me that this part is critical to the operation of the lathe (hence the reason why others have used available linear rails), and that accurate machining of this is crucial. Something that I don't know if I could do with simple home tools. IIRC, Gingery mentioned getting this cut by the supplier.
Very nice project.
Would you consider using Zinc-Aluminum alloy for a coming project in the Gingery sequence (or similar projects)? I am reading that it does have some better properties than pure Alluminum.
Nice.
UA-cam rewards for getting likes & comments, so I left you a comment & like
Yes indeed. Thank you very much.
First let me say that building a metal lathe that you cast the parts for yourself seems like a monumental achievement... Secondly I came over at Doug's urging from S/V Seeker. Lastly, funnily enough, I saw your ginger beard on the S/V Seeker live stream vid and being a redhead myself I thought it was interesting that you called it a Gingery Metal Lathe... until I found out it is named for David Gingery! Hahahahahaha
Haha. Gingers for the win! Glad you took a moment to check my channel out.
could you cast this out of lead or zinc to make it heavier and withstand vibrations better?
Great video and Idea
you are quite inspiring. Sure do enjoy seeing the process of casting aluminum. Would you mind saying where you found out about the keorsene furnace. I think that desing looks simple and effective. Also, did you make your own crusible tongues?
Thanks! I hope to have even more metal melting in future videos. Stay tuned. The tongs were my first welding project. Here is a link to the video showing the kwiky burner fab by David D: ua-cam.com/video/E-l21wQ6X-E/v-deo.html
+Glenn Felpel Thank you for the link! That information is great, am getting things together to build a furnace this winter.
What kind of tool did you use to scrape the bed? Did you buy a scraping tool or make one?
Hello, I watched all your videos and I like the way you work. I bought the Gingery collection and I start building the metal lathe. Could you tell me what is the width of the steel ways and the height of the bed of your lathe? Thank you for your videos and for the attention you will give to my request.
Jean 3xyz i use 3"x1/4" 1018 CRS for bef ways. The bed is about 1/4" taller than the book dimensions. The feet on my lathe are too short...error making pattern.
Finding aluminum scrap has turned out to be difficult for me. Did you buy your scrap from a scrap yard, or was it gifted? There are lots of abandoned vehicles in my city, but you can get in trouble for dismantling or removing them.
I will have to go through your videos to see if you address this, but I was wondering about the whole aluminum / steel galvanic corrossion issue as of late. How much have you seen? Did you change up the design at all?
Solid Project!
Beautiful car!
Что насчет разного температурного коэффициента расширения? Алюминиевая основа и стальная плита будут удлинятся по разному и вся конструкция будет изгибаться. Не пробовали измерять изгиб?
Did you hand scrape the ways and casting? Whoooo howdy. Good for you. I recently saw a video of that process. Damn cool.
Did you upscale your lathe from the book? Yours looks larger than what the book calls for
Wow, great to see someone break down the making of the Gingery lathe. Any chance you're going to go whole hog and also make the back gears as well?
I have the book. It may be a while, but it is a definite possibility.
where did you get your surface plate?
I have watched this series several times and have enjoyed it extremely. You did an outstanding job on this. I have purchase David Gingery's books and am going to attempt to build this. I am one of those guy's that always wants to modify thing to fit my needs. That being said, I am going to build all my patterns and assemble it first to see what I might want to change. My question for you is; did you find any drawbacks with the lathe you built and what changes do you wish you had made along the way?
I would love to see a better description of your kerosene furnace. Which is more cost effective to use, kerosene or propane?
which is more cost effective.... Waste Oil! go visit you local mechanics and more often than not unless disallowed by law in your area they will gladly give it to you. Saves them paying for disposal
Awesome video I just started casting last week. I subscribed to your channel as well. Can't wait to see more vids
Would it be possible to just by some aluminium/steel beam in the appropriate size and therefore avoid the whole casting process? It seems like the casting is somewhat hit-and-miss. Is there something I'm missing?
Building a lathe in this fashion will create a functioning machine, but I'd only recommend this project if someone wants to learn skills like casting, scraping, and machining. For someone who wants a lathe but isn't interested in learning through the project or already has those skills, I'd recommend spending $500-$1000 to get a much higher quality used lathe without the hundreds or thousands of hours to build a machine shop from scratch. It's all about what you want. I have seen many variations, including a fellow in Iran who built a lathe from a piece of scrap hot-rolled H-beam. I wanted to tackle the project as described in the book series with minimal variations, learning as I go, and I love casting. It is a great fit for me and some others but not everyone. Hope this helps.
I can see the inspiration of making your own lathe, the price of lathe's and mill's. prevent's the common man from owning them.
What size crucible are you using
I plan in building a gingery lathe I just want to make sure I have one large enough
What is the sand mix you use for casting? Because my castings do not come out looking as good as yours. Not that I expect them to look that good cause I am still a novice. When I cast I will get bits of sand casted to the metal and when I remove the sand from the metal, I get holes left behind
Check out the tools section on my website. I go into a bit of detail on my mix.
How does this rigid technique differ from filling the base with concrete? The Taig base is alluminum filled with concrete and has a large community sharing mods. Their finished part is practically perfect.
In part one on the lathe in the book it shows securing the bed with two short screws and two long screws. In your video you had a boat load of screws attaching the bed to the ways.could you please tell me why you did it that way.
@@jamesschultz4435 You replied to me not the video content creator. Hopefully they see your message.
Dude your video it is awesome, and your work remarkable, how do I get the mold forms for the complete lathe casting, thank you and have a nice day.
+CHARRUA UNO i made mine out of wood. where are you located?
Hello, I'm from Brazil and admired your work.
I would like to have a doubt.
What is the thickness of the steel sheet used above the aluminum base?
1/4"
Pode ir em uma empresa de oxycorte e pedir para cortarem na medida
Great work - I have one question for you - did you figure out what the two cast plates were for from the Charcoal Foundry book? Were they needed? I think they were the first recommended pour... (I'm just about ready to make my first casting)
Great video! I'm thinking of starting this project soon. Did you make any changes to the bed design? I see you have two rows of screws for the ways, but otherwise are your dimensions the same? And are you using plain aluminum, or another alloy?
+John Moody I did not cast the slots in addition to opting for the two rows of fasteners. Otherwise Gingery specifications. I had a friend from work give me an old engine block and transmission case that I broke down in the fire pit. The automotive castings were made from alloys that are particularly suited to that task. During the project however, I have undoubtedly intermixed ingots that came from things like aluminum baking pans (irony aluminum?), cans, and extrusions. I'd say 80% of the ingots in my project originated from the engine and transmission.
Overkill, but great work!
Thanks for the video - really informative. I have just received the Gingery books and am looking to build my own lathe next year. I have been looking online for ways to improve the lathe as I have heard the bed has some issues with flexing. I see you have beefed up the legs and used 2 rows of screws to connect the ways to the bed which is what I was thinking of doing. Did you change the dimensions of the ways or did you keep them the same width as Gingery designed? Some people have suggested making them 4 inches wide but I was put off that idea as it requires altering almost all of the other patterns! Thanks, Chris
+GC Bushcraft The legs are beefier, but I doubt they will have a big impact on overall bed rigidity. Both the bed and the ways are the dimensions specified in the Gingery book. I saw some of the discussions and videos advocating larger beds, but I decided to stick with the book's design to simplify the construction process among other reasons. As you note, changing dimensions of one part has a cascading effect on other patterns. Furthermore, I had concerns about the volume of the mold cavity exceeding my crucible capacity.
Good luck with your build. If you are on facebook, consider sharing some pictures with me on facebook once you get the process started. facebook.com/makercise
Thanks for the encouragement and for commenting.
Thanks for clarifying. Looking forward to part 2! Cheers, Chris
Hi, I notice that you talked about switching over to kerosene at 1:18 or so. Did you build a kero burner? Are they much different than the waste oil burners you see on the DIY metal casting vids? Any reason you chose kerosene vs waste oil or propane? Great series of videos, I am eager to see more from your channel, it looks very promising.
I just updated the description with a link to video I followed to build the burner. Waste oil is more viscous than kerosene, and may have a higher flash point iirc. Regardless, I find kero much easier to light and keep running. I chose the kero over propane with the thought that I could use waste oil to keep cost down. My wife picked up a 2kw electric kiln for $10 at a thrift store. Look for it to replace the kero foundry for most jobs. Way slower but way more convenient.
Hi I was just wondering how much it cost to build and was it easy to build.
Cost probably a couple hundred. It was not easy to build. It is not a highly economical lathe if you count the 1000 +/-500 hours it took to build. The chief benefit are the skills learned.
good video. Thanks
How did you modify the furnace to take kerosene? Can you please make a vidio on that? Also, would propain work?
Check out my portable lightweight propane foundry build video. It uses propane. I don't plan to make a video on kerosene. It is too messy.
great projects, keep up the good job, I have 2 questions for you or others, what size crucible did you use as I wish to make this project and can the size of lathe bed be longer.
Great Video! I recently got the books and am looking to dive in and make one. I noticed you attached the bed differently than suggested in the book, where did you get that suggestion? I want to take advantage of any post 1980 technology to make any improvements. Best of luck to your channel.
I made the modification based on my own perception of molding ease. The slots seemed like a pain to mold. I don't recall seeing fasteners exactly like I did them...it just seemed like a good idea. Check out Morgan Demers videos if you haven't already. I appreciate the well wishes.
Hi, great videos! I cant wait for your next installment. How high did you make your bed pattern?
Thanks! Bed pattern is 2-1/8" tall, 2-1/2" wide at base, 2-1/8" wide at top.
I have a question. I got a smaller surface plate but I'm worried about hand scrapping the bed. I got a 12" x 18" granite surface plate. I don't have any dial indicators or anything.
I looked at getting the 12x18 plate, but opted for the bigger one to get the full length. You could possibly shorten the bed to ~20 if you work diagonally or offset spotting by a few inches to get the full length. I wouldn't worry too much. Getting started and maintaining inertia are the hardest parts. Try not to think about it too hard or get bogged down. If you have a harbor freight near by dial indicators can be had cheaply; plus I don't think you need one to scrape.
I don't know if I should attempt this how much aluminium is required
good job
Hi. Great videos. I've been trying to make the mould for the bed, I'm not sure if you can help. But if possible? I'm so close but keep hitting up against the same problem. In the final stage when I have rolled the flask over the second time and about to remove the cope. When I lift the cope. The sand breaks apart above and horizontal to the pattern. When I remove the sand from above the drag and lift the pattern off, the drag is perfect. I've tried packing it tighter on one try then looser on another. Any ideas? Thanks.
At first shot I'd say more parting powder and more rapping on the cope. When you roll the cope initially, remove the pattern before ramming up the drag. That way you can ram it tight yet feel confident it will extract.
Be sure your flask has ribs. If your sand seems to have good green strength otherwise and bonds well, perhaps try using a 1/8" rod through the cope sand and rapping the pattern using the rod in addition to rapping the cope. You may also try varying how much water you add to the sand and how extensively you mull the part. My pattern has more than 5 degrees of draft and health fillets inside and out. Arrange a work surface that puts the mold slightly above your waste but below your elbows with a slight bend in your knees. Use your legs to separate the mold versus biceps.
The bed is the most challenging part I have ever molded, so hang in there. I took at least 3 or 4 tries. There are a lot of variations of other was to mold like using cores inside the mold. I haven't tried using sodium silicate yet, but that may be an option you could try.
Finally, I am really hooked on lost foam casting. For difficult parts to mold like the lathe bed and shaper columns, I think there is a compelling advantage to using that technique. I am investigating supplying foam pattens. Be sure you are on the email list if you think you'd like to guinea pig such a product. I will be sending out info through that channel first if things workout.
Thanks. I appreciate your feedback. The sand holds well in the top of the cope and in the drag. The pattern separates easily and cleanly from the drag. I hadn't thought of removing the pattern from the cope then re inserting before ramming up the drag.
Turned out it was the sand. I received some casting red sand that I ordered. Made the mould and everything went real smooth.
I was wondering. that will wear out pretty fast and it won't stay true. If use it a lot. Like most bed are made out of hardened steel.just wondering
It will wear faster than hardened steel, but I'd expect the aluminum carriage casting to wear WAY faster than the bed ways. Time will tell.
Most beds are cast steel not hardened.
I had to subscribe, this is epic
Awesome! Great to have you. I should have more progress available for viewing in a few weeks.
Awesome man, I really am looking forward to it. I HAVE to make one now, I am hooked XD
does a 3kg capacity foundry have enough capacity to cast the parts?
Be tough to do without a surface plate, though.
What is it that you are using for a flat reference? Thanks in advance, love the videos. Just starting to get the parts together to attempt this with a friend. I find the videos really helpful.
Glad to hear it. The surface plate details are here: www.makercise.com/tools/
I enjoy your videos. For some reason your lathe looks bigger. Did you increased the size of the lathe over than what the book calls for? Keep up the good work.
David Burlingame no. I accidentally made the feet shorter. Optical illusion
David Burlingame no. I accidentally made the feet shorter. Optical illusion
What size is your surface plate?
You should pour concrete into the bed to make it more rigid, as the Taig lathe does.
amigo existe alguma maneira de fazer esse torno sem essa mesa de ajuste ?
Amazing! But question about the bed top made of cold rolled steel: how did you make it?
I did not make it. I purchased the CRS.
Ah ok. Does the Gingery Lathe book describe how to make such a piece? I'm curious, as it would be cool to try and build this thing 100% by hand.
No the book does not. Gingery presumes some use of modern technology to mimic the path that early machine builders would have taken. Cold rolled steel is a relatively modern material. For that matter aluminum, high speed steel, and threaded fasteners are also. 100% would be cool, but would be exponentially (possibly factorially) harder to pull off. The book series is best seen as a simulated walk down the path of machine tool history making allowance for many modern materials and tools to help the process along.
Did you scale up your pattern or use exact dimensions Dave listed in his book?
I goofed up the dimensions of the feet. Otherwise I stuck to the book.
Makercise thank you. It still turned out nice and I love your videos. Hope to see more of your house project.
how do u make the parts that you used to make your mold so that you could cast your
noah he I think my patterns are the parts to which you refer. I use mostly wood patterns. I will release a video tomorrow where I use a 3d printed patterns. Some of the other videos in the series go into pattern construction.
Did you make those crucible tongs yourself?
+Nocturnal yes I did. The process was very similar to the set I made for my lightweight propane foundry. If you check out that video, the tong fabrication is about 2/3 through.
How made templates? And What kind of stuff that you dissolve it?
hamza mln the pattern is made from wood on a table saw. it isn't dissolved. it must be removed from the mold. this is why having draft and a parting line is an important design consideration in pattern making. part 9 of the Playlist has more details on the process.
can u please tell me which fluid u use for scraping
Prussian blue oil paint from Michael’s
@@Makercise thanks for your reply i dont have granite stone . i am planing to use glass plate i hope it will work
What size surface plate is that?
What size graphite crucible do you use for these? Thanks.
#6 is my goto. I have a few #8
@@Makercise Thank you
А есть размеры станины станка?
hi sir
why you didn't cast the bed and feet together?any reason?
Too much mass, you are limited to the amount of metal that you can fit in the crucible, and you want the feet/ways to be as massive as possible. The feet would have taken too much metal away from the crucible to complete the cast.
Did you really Steal Bean Can!!! why? are they worth stealing....? :) You made me Grin I just wanted to return the favour . Nice video, thank's for sharing.........
Good Chlip !!! Bye Max Welcher ( Bavaria ( Germany )
great video :)
I saw a tutorial that made a lathe of concrete
where i can buy the greensand that you have used?
The green sand I used in part 1 was made from clay kitty litter from Walmart and play sand from Home Depot. I upgraded to Black Diamond and southern bentonite from Lancaster Foundry Supply in Pennsylvania just before casting the headstock. I am not sure if they offer a premixed green sand.
If there are no foundry supply establishments near you,try looking for a supply firm that caters to the people who make pottery. There are a surprising number of materials that are common to both foundry work and pottery making. I get my bentonite and fireclay,as well as castable refractory at a local pottery supply company.
well it's a lathe ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxN9zrzkkhnjUF5PQbuA_B1gYdsfCu9k6z but it wasn't what i would have anticipated. Headstock, tailstock, carriage apron are manufactured from aluminum now not cast iron. The spindle diameter for the bearings is too small allowing for a few play in the spindle so I am using some blue Loctite to take out the play.
Feedback
there i put my feedback in the comments. your welcome!
5:43
I was thinking of doing the bed as a lost foam investment casting anyone have any suggestion or comments to this idea
Excellent :)
Yeinier Ferrás thanks!