The curvy one is called a WAVE staple. The two staples you mentioned that you don't use are inside and outside corner staples. The other one is a flat staple. One trick is to make a slight twist or turn after the staple has been inserted into the plastic which helps lock it in place. Another tip is you can adjust the shape of the wire with needle nose pliers to fit the shape of the plastic, making it more of a curve either concave or convex. Add a piece of metal screen to increase surface area structural strength pushing the staples in place to tack in the screen and then use the flat chisel iron to press the screen into the plastic. I also place the staple against the plastic before heating it up and I cycle the power ON & OFF to just keep it hot enough to melt into the plastic. Too hot and it might melt all the way through and push through to the opposite side. I also take a small flat head screwdriver or a small flat chisel to smooth the soft plastic, while it is still moldable that gets pushed out to the sides, back over the top of the embedded staple. If you have a soldering iron with a wide chisel tip you can also use that to smooth and shape the plastic after the staple has been set in place. If you don't have something like that, there is another tool called a plastic welder which is exactly the same as the soldering iron handle with a couple different chisel like tip accessories. I found mine at H. Freight for around $15 with a coupon. The staples come in two thicknesses, 0.6mm and 0.8mm. I find myself using the smaller of the two, 0.6mm, more often than the larger 0.8mm staples. I have the exact same hot staple gun, I kept the wire cutter. I recommend if you purchase the hot staple gun, order a package of extra staples. Usually, the assortment includes all the different styles in 1000 pcs in your choice of either 0.8 mm or 0.6 mm. Get a pack of each size, I suggest getting 2000 pack of the 0.6 mm since you'll find using them more often for the thinner plastics.
put the staple in place and ready...then pull the trigger. you have way more control of the depth doing it that way. I use mine all the time. it was bought for a one time job and also figured that was about all i would get from it....I was wrong! this thing just works!!
You are putting first staple in a wrong direction. If you put them in the other way ("vertically") then these would not be able to stretch on crack. Documentation diagram "A" shows correct orientation.
@@ustfdesI read the manuals because they usually have good stories inside, about the time Joe Bob Briggs used a plastic welder on the battlefield to sew up his comrades gaping chest wound and then both of them stormed a nazi pillbox with bows and arrows and singlehandedly murked the Kaiser and then they went to Disney world, got scratched by a rusty nail in the haunted house ride and died of tetanus. The moral of the story is read the manual if you're gonna demonstrate how to use things on UA-cam, and that way no one has a right to call you a knob end when you do it wrong. Also, sometimes the manuals (like the placemats for children at restaurants) have mazes to solve and word jumbles and things to color in with crayons. Manuals kick ass.
Why I came here: The nails were falling out of my device (I have the same wireless model), and it didn’t hold them properly right out of the box. My advice: slightly bend the ends of the nails so they create tension when inserted.
bought one too-very useful- still have and use wire cutter item came with.I don't wait for metal wires to get red -literally seconds after holding trigger wire gets hot enough to melt into plastic being mended .
There is another kind of plastic welder that has a welding tip. You can use that with paper clips. No need to have multiple tools when you can use a tool multiple ways.
You mean a hot iron tip? It's solid in the shape of a standard iron. It's not called a welding tip. It's just like a hot knife and you can smoke hash off it. Not that I'd know. Anyway, this guy is clearly a beginner and a beginner is best served with this style of hot melt repair tool. I've seen way too many people use the flat iron style welder wrong on UA-cam, adding the "welding rod" (plastic stick) to the broken area and then putting the wire in. The correct way to use that style "welder" is to melt the broken area with the tip, while your wire is set on top of the break. Then add the plastic rod that you melt off a stick if you feel the break needs more material around it Honestly if people aren't going to learn proper use, they should stick to the kind of tool in this video, as 50% of the time (by dumb luck) even a syphilitic ape that is blind in one eye will get it right, through sheer probability chance.
It's is best to hold the wire tightly with needlenose or pliers and then cut the wire close to the surface, never hold the wire with your fingers or when you snip it off the energy released will drive the wire into your fingers. Trust me on this, I am speaking from painful experience and used those same needlenose pliers to pull it out of the tip of my index finger! And if you don't hold the wire and just snip it off, it flies off and could end up in your eye or you will find it later embedded in your foot or clothing or your dog's paw if they might step on it. Dispose of those wire clippings in thre trash can. I use a magnetic parts holder to hold the snippings dropping them from the needlenose pliers after I clipped them off. Make the touchup finishing like smoothing the plastic that gets pushed out and on the sides of the openings with a hot solder iron and flat tip.
Advice on running cracks. Drilling a small hole at the very end of the crack will stop the stress that causes the crack to continue to run. Then you can remove some material from an inconspicuous area and fill in the hole you drilled by melting it into the hole.
You can make plastic paste by combing acetone with so plastics. Acetone and ABS plastic works, like from a 3d printer or even acetone and LEGO, which comes in many colors which is helpfull
The curvy one is called a WAVE staple. The two staples you mentioned that you don't use are inside and outside corner staples. The other one is a flat staple. One trick is to make a slight twist or turn after the staple has been inserted into the plastic which helps lock it in place. Another tip is you can adjust the shape of the wire with needle nose pliers to fit the shape of the plastic, making it more of a curve either concave or convex. Add a piece of metal screen to increase surface area structural strength pushing the staples in place to tack in the screen and then use the flat chisel iron to press the screen into the plastic. I also place the staple against the plastic before heating it up and I cycle the power ON & OFF to just keep it hot enough to melt into the plastic. Too hot and it might melt all the way through and push through to the opposite side. I also take a small flat head screwdriver or a small flat chisel to smooth the soft plastic, while it is still moldable that gets pushed out to the sides, back over the top of the embedded staple. If you have a soldering iron with a wide chisel tip you can also use that to smooth and shape the plastic after the staple has been set in place. If you don't have something like that, there is another tool called a plastic welder which is exactly the same as the soldering iron handle with a couple different chisel like tip accessories. I found mine at H. Freight for around $15 with a coupon.
The staples come in two thicknesses, 0.6mm and 0.8mm. I find myself using the smaller of the two, 0.6mm, more often than the larger 0.8mm staples. I have the exact same hot staple gun, I kept the wire cutter. I recommend if you purchase the hot staple gun, order a package of extra staples. Usually, the assortment includes all the different styles in 1000 pcs in your choice of either 0.8 mm or 0.6 mm. Get a pack of each size, I suggest getting 2000 pack of the 0.6 mm since you'll find using them more often for the thinner plastics.
I heard of a trick where give it a little twist as it's melting so it's buried a bit better
put the staple in place and ready...then pull the trigger. you have way more control of the depth doing it that way. I use mine all the time. it was bought for a one time job and also figured that was about all i would get from it....I was wrong! this thing just works!!
Thanks!!!!
You are putting first staple in a wrong direction. If you put them in the other way ("vertically") then these would not be able to stretch on crack. Documentation diagram "A" shows correct orientation.
"who reads the manuals?" He doesn't. ;)
@@ustfdesI read the manuals because they usually have good stories inside, about the time Joe Bob Briggs used a plastic welder on the battlefield to sew up his comrades gaping chest wound and then both of them stormed a nazi pillbox with bows and arrows and singlehandedly murked the Kaiser and then they went to Disney world, got scratched by a rusty nail in the haunted house ride and died of tetanus.
The moral of the story is read the manual if you're gonna demonstrate how to use things on UA-cam, and that way no one has a right to call you a knob end when you do it wrong.
Also, sometimes the manuals (like the placemats for children at restaurants) have mazes to solve and word jumbles and things to color in with crayons.
Manuals kick ass.
Why I came here: The nails were falling out of my device (I have the same wireless model), and it didn’t hold them properly right out of the box. My advice: slightly bend the ends of the nails so they create tension when inserted.
bought one too-very useful- still have and use wire cutter item came with.I don't wait for metal wires to get red -literally seconds after holding trigger wire gets hot enough to melt into plastic being mended .
There is another kind of plastic welder that has a welding tip. You can use that with paper clips. No need to have multiple tools when you can use a tool multiple ways.
You mean a hot iron tip? It's solid in the shape of a standard iron.
It's not called a welding tip. It's just like a hot knife and you can smoke hash off it.
Not that I'd know.
Anyway, this guy is clearly a beginner and a beginner is best served with this style of hot melt repair tool.
I've seen way too many people use the flat iron style welder wrong on UA-cam, adding the "welding rod" (plastic stick) to the broken area and then putting the wire in.
The correct way to use that style "welder" is to melt the broken area with the tip, while your wire is set on top of the break. Then add the plastic rod that you melt off a stick if you feel the break needs more material around it
Honestly if people aren't going to learn proper use, they should stick to the kind of tool in this video, as 50% of the time (by dumb luck) even a syphilitic ape that is blind in one eye will get it right, through sheer probability chance.
It's is best to hold the wire tightly with needlenose or pliers and then cut the wire close to the surface, never hold the wire with your fingers or when you snip it off the energy released will drive the wire into your fingers. Trust me on this, I am speaking from painful experience and used those same needlenose pliers to pull it out of the tip of my index finger! And if you don't hold the wire and just snip it off, it flies off and could end up in your eye or you will find it later embedded in your foot or clothing or your dog's paw if they might step on it. Dispose of those wire clippings in thre trash can. I use a magnetic parts holder to hold the snippings dropping them from the needlenose pliers after I clipped them off. Make the touchup finishing like smoothing the plastic that gets pushed out and on the sides of the openings with a hot solder iron and flat tip.
I used the same one to fix my car bumper today. Took an hour but it's stronger the factory now. Great investment to buy one of these.
Rite! greatest thing ever invented
Thanks for making this video. I was in 2 minds of buying one, but this looks pretty simple. Thank you 👍🏼🤛🏼
Advice on running cracks. Drilling a small hole at the very end of the crack will stop the stress that causes the crack to continue to run. Then you can remove some material from an inconspicuous area and fill in the hole you drilled by melting it into the hole.
You can make plastic paste by combing acetone with so plastics. Acetone and ABS plastic works, like from a 3d printer or even acetone and LEGO, which comes in many colors which is helpfull
@@lengerer but it s not sticky
Why did you look for ground? The gun is plastic. Where would you fit it?
I got the same one. It's a pretty good investment for sure
Awesome video, thanks for sharing, I’m about fix a couple cracks like these on my old 4 wheeler:)
Pour cold 💧 water on the tips to make them easy to bend & break off.
Alternately, use an ice cube instead of cold water.
How do you plug this into a regular outlet?
I just used this exact item to repair the front slam panel on a crashed car for my channel, video coming soon! really good bit of kit 😁
Thanks for the cool demo
This dude said the plugin is scary 😂
Great tool. I love mine. It is invaluable
Thank you for making this
How do you loose it?
3:08 “From Japan or China”. He says as if they’re the same thing. 😹
Cry harder
@@TheDogDad Nope, that’s laughing, not crying.
$30 dam!? I got the same gun and a few hundred staples on Temu for $5
On temu is 4-5$ bro
Price kya hai
Excelente herramienta
Is machine ke price kitni hai
Tees $ bakwas hai
I do.
Good video
But more crapppp from the crapp jungle
Junk. Worked for 20mins. Maybe.. returned it for refund. Waste of time.