I CAN'T BELIEVE IT'S NOT LACQUER TEST, Short follow up, by JONAH GUITARS
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- Опубліковано 12 вер 2024
- I'm looking at the Solarez product I can't believe it's not lacquer in this video. I can't believe they couldn't find a shorter name. It's a little longer than I wanted but I cut out as much as I could and still maintain some flow. Also testing color tints to see if they inhibit drying. I also make a light box along the way.
Dane Nichols builds and repairs guitars in Mt. Shasta, Ca.
Glad that it panned out for you. At some angles that test piece looks almost like mother of pearl (right on the border on when glaring starts). From the look of it I would stick to dying (can you say that?) the wood and then clear over it it gives a depth that's stunning.
Thank you Gert. yes that's sort of the plan now. I want to find something low or zero VOC to spray the color in rather than the DA. Just to have better control of it. I just got some Crystalac Brite tone instrument finish along with their pigments. We'll see how that goes.
man that is some beautiful wood! and really turned out nice!
Thanks a lot Randy, like I said in the video if it was only 5" longer man it would an amazing neck.
You have a result there Dane. It may be too short for a neck but it would make a couple of pretty scarfed headstocks?
Whoa! That would be a very cool effect. Use the scarf as a feature. Could make a million peghead veneers.
Ive used offcuts of walnut scarf3d to maple necks and the results were teally nice@@jonahguitarguy
I love the color! I have a Strat in that color. I wish it had that grain pattern. I also built a race car with that color.
I've always heard green was an unlucky color for race cars. My 1930 Model A hot rod was Matador red and old Merc color.
Hello! Thanks for the great video! Will it dry under a normal light or overnight? Or it just under the sunlight or specific lighting?
Thanks for watching Matan. The product claims to dry completely hard in the sun. Or under certain spectrum UV lights. It will also cure in time with MEKP added to the mix. I found my sunlight and my UV lights to be insufficient to do a decent job of drying these products. I didn't see how I could make these products work for me without investing a lot of money into very high end UV lights. I've stopped trying to make this stuff work for me. Mainly because I was not happy with the way the product laid out when spraying. There could be endless reasons for this. I just gave up on solar and water based products altogether.
@@jonahguitarguy yeah me too. Sounds sophisticated but not practical. I will soon try the new & Improved version of AquaCoat Water based Grain Filler. Any reason you’ve stop using water based fillers?
@@Matan2222222, I'm not a fan of AquaCoat. Let me know what you think of new and improved. Barry from AquaCoat emails me about once a week. I'm getting very tired of him.
@@jonahguitarguy I have some oil based grain fillers on the way as well. I'll see the differences on a test piece first. The only thing that I don't like is introducing water into the equation.
Never understood the water based concept with wood but I'll give it a try and I let you know.
The new version has higher solids according to AquaCoat so it requires less coats to fill the surface. Im going to use Nitrocellulose Lacquer over it so I hope it will be compatible.
@@Matan2222222, you shouldn't have any troubles with lacquer over Aquacoat.
I've been looking at a few of the non-catalyzed clears. The chemicals really get to you over time and I'd like to find something easier on my body. I'll be curious to see if you notice any die back over the next 4-6 months. It would be cool if you gave us an update in feb-march.
My lack of brain cells is already very obvious to me. And this is whats prompted me to find a safer finishing option. Not sure what die back is, fading maybe?
@@jonahguitarguy Die back is when the finish sinks into the grain or into the sanding scratches over time. Usually it will appear about a week after finish is sprayed, but sometimes (like with Tru Oil) it can take a few months before it starts to sink.
@@SkyscraperGuitarsok i always call shrinking or sinking. Very common with lacquer.
@@jonahguitarguy Agreed. The old lacquer is generally pretty poor. Some of the catalyzed acrylics are awesome and some are terrible. I've seen some waterborne coatings that defy logic and some that are just as bad as lacquer... I need to do a 1 year shoot out with all the brands to see how they hold up... Seems like people judge the quality of a finish 20 years after it's applied!!!
Interesting stuff. I'm currently doing some tests with the grain filler they make. Still strange for it to be cured so quickly.
This stuff was a pain in the butt to use. And the top coats get bubbles if it’s sprayed heavy enough to flow. So I abandoned water based paint altogether. I am experimenting with UV sealer for fabric top guitars. But with MEKP for the kicker instead of UV cure lights. I like the polyester sanding sealer but it’s fowl smelling it lingers for days in the shop.
@@jonahguitarguy We’ll see if the “no shrinkage” marketing works out. At that point it might be with the time investment to get the process worked out. Did you find the strip LED put out enough light to trigger the cure process?
@@RattlecanGuitarRestorations, It did work at close quarters.
Good video Dane!!!!!!))) 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼😊
Thanks much Steve!👍👍👍👍🎸👍🎸🎸🎸
Thanks Dane . Your descriptions are short and precise.
I have 3 questions please
1. Is it possible to put this solarez icbinl laquer on a fretboard which has frets already on it?
2. Why no grain sealer? Because it's Maple?
3. What do you think of a Fretboard finish with Solarez Polyseter uv cured finish?The guys at Wahoo who produce this told me a few guys have tried it out successfully. And it is way beyond stronger than icbinl finish.
Thank you for your questions. Lacquer on a maple fretboard is typically applied after the frets are in. The solarez should be fine for a fretboard. Probably tougher than standard nitro. Yes no grain sealer because it’s maple. Also think the polyester would be fine. Again tougher than the reg lacquer.
I am finding water based finishes somewhat problematic but still trying to use them to save my brain.
@@jonahguitarguy Thank you for your quick response!
Dane I heard that if I use the Polyester uv cure for the fretboard and some of it gets on the frets it might be tough to get it off them. If that is so how could I get around that? I thought maybe if I build it up in a few thin application cures .... what do you think?
Another possibility is to use one regular coat being carefully tidy to somehow wipe the excess off of every fret. Which do you recommend please?
@@Mherkava, I don't have personal experience with solar on a fret board. But I do know it gets very hard. But I'm not sure how you would go about wiping frets off without touching the fretboard as well. Another thing to think about is if the finish gets too thick on the FB the fret height will suffer. Regular lacquer will "pop" off the frets relatively easily if you don't let it cure too long. Don't ask how I know this. But either way dressing the frets will get a lot of it off.
I think you said in another vid that you used the Simtec Sanding Sealer and you didn't like the fumes? Was that the only issue with it? How was your ventilation?
I don't have a dedicated spray booth so yes while it's a great product that works really well just opening the can produces fumes in my shop that are truley unbearable. That's why I'm spending the time, energy and money to find a more eco friendly way to finish guitars.
Nice video. I've got a maple veneer top that I'd like to finish to accentuate the flame/curl. I want to finish it essentially natural, with maybe a hint of amber. If I dyed it and sanded most of the dye off, would it lessen the 3D effect of the curl? I'm planning to finish it with the ICBINL clear coat. Thank you.
Pre-staining with a dark color and sanding it all off accents the curl. Which dark color depends on what color you put over it later. You said amber so I think a dark brown stain/dye would work well. You say sand most of the dye off but really you want to sand back completely. I know it sounds like a contradiction but you can't sand all the stain off because the curl or figure in wood is actually end grain turning toward the surface. So the dye is sucked very deep into the grain in those areas.
@@jonahguitarguy Thank you, Dane. I guess I'm mostly curious about losing the 3D, chatoyant (light reflective qualities of the curl) if I were to dye, then sand back. Does the dye that remains in the end grain portion of the maple damage that effect? And turn it more into a static pattern?
@@cooly4831, I don't think that so many people or companies would use this method if it were taking away the 3D effect of the curl. I'm thinking PRS for example. As always the wise thing to do is to so some samples on scrap and see what you like best.
@@jonahguitarguy Good point! I guess I'll go for it, but keep the strain applications light. Thank you again, Dane.
BTW, mirrors absorb UV light, they don't reflect it.
I’ll to look that one up. It preformed better than without mirrors. But it was a huge pain in the butt so I’m using 2K auto urethane. Works great just improved my ventilation.
Update, mirrors can absorb up to 3% of the light. That means it's reflecting 97%. Makes more sense to me to say that mirrors reflect light.
@@jonahguitarguy good to know. It's still the aluminum doing the reflecting, so aluminum foil would be better than a mirror.
@@clutch2827 could be, like I said I don’t this method any longer
What UV lighting are you using? Thanks!
I think I have a box of them in the shop. I'll have to get back to you. Thanks for taking a look at the vid.
UV LED strip lights SKU OL00102-05-US. OLLRIEU is the brand. I think it was Amazon.
thanks for video..just used this product on test guitar body. it seems to work well...i rubbed on a thin coat will level sand and think it'll look great..but it is no where near odor free. i was wondering how tint powders would work in solarez?
The Solarrez does smell bad. I don't remember the ICBINL smelling to bad but honestly after so many years of nitrocellulose lacquer my smeller is off a bit. Best to experiment with finish and tints to see happens. I've only use liquid tints.
@@jonahguitarguy thanks man..i gotta sub you. the fast cure time is what drew me to it..it's not driving me out the house..but yeah it smells,lol.
@@music-xr4coabsolutely sub my friend.
Супер! 👍Буду рад дружбе наших каналов🤝