Very good - Thank you. On my part made loco (5" 9F), there will be no additional provision for oiling the cast iron cylinders, pistons and rings after a running session. I presume you have to manually crank the lubricator whilst rolling the loco?
At the end of running, what you do is open the drain cocks, and put the reverser into reverse, pour/squirt oil down the blastpipe and push the loco forward, that will draw the oil down into the cylinders, you can repeat this process in both forward and reverse gear by pushing the loco in the opposite direction of the gear until oil starts coming out your drain cocks, that will keep your loco lubricated until next steaming. Hope this helps, Lee
Hi there.. Great video, but I have a question... Why does the water NEED to be cold for the injector.? What would happen if it was, let's say, boiling.? Cheers.
helpful, thinking about getting a simplex
Truly the best part of the instructions are the high quality sound effects.
Thanks simon great instructions.
Very good - Thank you. On my part made loco (5" 9F), there will be no additional provision for oiling the cast iron cylinders, pistons and rings after a running session. I presume you have to manually crank the lubricator whilst rolling the loco?
At the end of running, what you do is open the drain cocks, and put the reverser into reverse, pour/squirt oil down the blastpipe and push the loco forward, that will draw the oil down into the cylinders, you can repeat this process in both forward and reverse gear by pushing the loco in the opposite direction of the gear until oil starts coming out your drain cocks, that will keep your loco lubricated until next steaming. Hope this helps, Lee
Nice one Lee - Thank you.
Hi there..
Great video, but I have a question...
Why does the water NEED to be cold for the injector.?
What would happen if it was, let's say, boiling.?
Cheers.
If the water is too hot the injector will either not work at all or very poorly.