Helpful video! Question - I read that I'd need to do the following steps: 1. Clean the cedar 2. Apply wood stripper and rinse to remove previous stain 3. Apply wood brightener to return cedar to the correct ph 4. Apply new stain. Is all of that necessary if the new stain is similar in color but slightly darker? Both new and old stain are semi-transparent.
Great question. No that is not always necessary when you are staining to a darker color. That's usually when your current wood coating has failed, lost it's color, darkened - or if you're completely changing the color of the current stain. On this project, we were restaining with the same semi-transparent stain, same color and same product - so it was just a quick rinse and scrub brush to remove any dirt and debris (and dead wood fibres). There's a lot of variables involved so without seeing the state of your wood, or the colors you've selected, I can't say for certain.... but if you send text a few pictures of your home along with mentioning this video I can give you a more precise answer. 1-866-724-6818. Or send to support@trustedhousepainter.com mentioning this youtube video. You can also call the number to speak to a paint expert. Cheers!
Contract stated no spraying and it was priced accordingly. Didn’t take very long and made pretty good money. It’s all about listening to the client and providing exceptional service.
We hand washed the shingles with a hose, scrub brush and eco tsp. Make sure to scrub with the grains of the wood. Don’t scrub against the grains or else it may cause unwanted horizontal scrape marks.
What is that exact color name/number grey and where can I get that stain in Michigan? My shingles are exactly the same as on the video. Some critter chewed on a few shingles and I need to replace them.
Good question. Unfortunately it was a color match (a custom mix of semi-transparent stain). So the client was happy with the final product because all the shingles were coated with the same color grey.
@@sugs_tube we don’t charge per square foot. Staining shingles while standing on the ground is a lot easier than staining shingles standing on a 32’ ladder or staining a roof dormer on a roof ladder. We recommend NOT charging per square foot, or alternatively, come up with your price and then divide by square foot - and you’ll have your price. But beware, it might be more than $10/sq ft. It’s dangerous pricing per sq ft. That’s usually only a new construction pricing style - because there’s very little variables that make the job more difficult.
I’m sure you could… but if there is a coating, it’s likely a special coating for roofs. This product wouldn’t be designed for roofs. Plus, to protect your cedar roof properly, you’d want to coat all 6 sides of each cedar shake. I hope that helps.
@@JohnAchin yes and no. As you know every job has its unique challenges. I agree the roller holds more paint which can make it faster, however, sometimes that becomes more sloppy and can be more grief that reward - especially for stains. We tend to follow recommended guidelines from the MSDS sheets.
Thanks for your comment, you know what they say, opinions are like…. everyone has one. There’s many roads that lead to Rome. But at the end of the day if the client is happy then there’s no problem.
@@TrustedHousePainter If you are getting paid by the hour I suppose there's no problem. I was in the painting business for 50 years. With a 4"Purdy Nylox Nylonia I could do what your are doing in 1/4 or 1/5 the time. At the very least, try a 3" Nylox Nylonia. It has long bristles and will hold a lot of paint. Also, the long bristles will get into the cracks better. Shingles like these will absorb stain like a sponge. With a 4" you can flood a couple shingles with one dip before laying it off, instead of repeatedly dipping.
@@TrustedHousePainter I don't care so much. If I did I would have pointed out a few other things to help improve efficiency and quality. I just wanted to point out to people reading the comments that using a sash brush on cedar shingle is not the thing to do. It's taking you about 35 individual brush strokes to paint one shingle. Sorry if I came off too critical.
Someone has a hard time with constructive criticism-not that I care. Thanks for the tips @photographer128! I was looking for an option on best brushes to use. Glad I found your comment!
Helpful video! Question - I read that I'd need to do the following steps:
1. Clean the cedar
2. Apply wood stripper and rinse to remove previous stain
3. Apply wood brightener to return cedar to the correct ph
4. Apply new stain.
Is all of that necessary if the new stain is similar in color but slightly darker? Both new and old stain are semi-transparent.
Great question. No that is not always necessary when you are staining to a darker color. That's usually when your current wood coating has failed, lost it's color, darkened - or if you're completely changing the color of the current stain.
On this project, we were restaining with the same semi-transparent stain, same color and same product - so it was just a quick rinse and scrub brush to remove any dirt and debris (and dead wood fibres).
There's a lot of variables involved so without seeing the state of your wood, or the colors you've selected, I can't say for certain.... but if you send text a few pictures of your home along with mentioning this video I can give you a more precise answer. 1-866-724-6818. Or send to support@trustedhousepainter.com mentioning this youtube video. You can also call the number to speak to a paint expert.
Cheers!
guys that sand and paint shakes TAKE NOTE !!! this man knows his shit 👍
@@BostonMark thank you sir.
Oh my God. You'll be there forever. Spray and back brush that thing man.
Contract stated no spraying and it was priced accordingly. Didn’t take very long and made pretty good money. It’s all about listening to the client and providing exceptional service.
@TrustedHousePainter True story: My company did an entire apartment complex by hand. If they see you spraying, just say goodbye.
Can you please say how you cleaned the shingles to prepare? How did you wash and scrub?
We hand washed the shingles with a hose, scrub brush and eco tsp. Make sure to scrub with the grains of the wood. Don’t scrub against the grains or else it may cause unwanted horizontal scrape marks.
What is that exact color name/number grey and where can I get that stain in Michigan? My shingles are exactly the same as on the video. Some critter chewed on a few shingles and I need to replace them.
Good question. Unfortunately it was a color match (a custom mix of semi-transparent stain). So the client was happy with the final product because all the shingles were coated with the same color grey.
Hey I’m a small time contractor and just curious how much you charge per sq ft for staining shakes
@@sugs_tube we don’t charge per square foot. Staining shingles while standing on the ground is a lot easier than staining shingles standing on a 32’ ladder or staining a roof dormer on a roof ladder. We recommend NOT charging per square foot, or alternatively, come up with your price and then divide by square foot - and you’ll have your price. But beware, it might be more than $10/sq ft.
It’s dangerous pricing per sq ft. That’s usually only a new construction pricing style - because there’s very little variables that make the job more difficult.
can i do this to my cedar shingles on my roof?
I’m sure you could… but if there is a coating, it’s likely a special coating for roofs. This product wouldn’t be designed for roofs. Plus, to protect your cedar roof properly, you’d want to coat all 6 sides of each cedar shake. I hope that helps.
4 inch roller then backbrush.
4x faster at least.
@@JohnAchin yes and no. As you know every job has its unique challenges. I agree the roller holds more paint which can make it faster, however, sometimes that becomes more sloppy and can be more grief that reward - especially for stains. We tend to follow recommended guidelines from the MSDS sheets.
You're just painting on some plastic.
"semi" transparent???? naaahhh.
Trusted painter??? This guy is using a little angle brush designed for painting window sash. It doesn't hold enough paint to paint one shingle.
Thanks for your comment, you know what they say, opinions are like…. everyone has one. There’s many roads that lead to Rome. But at the end of the day if the client is happy then there’s no problem.
@@TrustedHousePainter If you are getting paid by the hour I suppose there's no problem. I was in the painting business for 50 years. With a 4"Purdy Nylox Nylonia I could do what your are doing in 1/4 or 1/5 the time. At the very least, try a 3" Nylox Nylonia. It has long bristles and will hold a lot of paint. Also, the long bristles will get into the cracks better. Shingles like these will absorb stain like a sponge. With a 4" you can flood a couple shingles with one dip before laying it off, instead of repeatedly dipping.
@@photographer128 thanks for your wisdom and feedback. But I’m curious why you care so much?
@@TrustedHousePainter I don't care so much. If I did I would have pointed out a few other things to help improve efficiency and quality. I just wanted to point out to people reading the comments that using a sash brush on cedar shingle is not the thing to do. It's taking you about 35 individual brush strokes to paint one shingle. Sorry if I came off too critical.
Someone has a hard time with constructive criticism-not that I care.
Thanks for the tips @photographer128! I was looking for an option on best brushes to use. Glad I found your comment!