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2003 Honda VFR800 VTEC Front Fork Seal Replacement and Rebuild
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- Опубліковано 7 вер 2019
- Hi everyone, welcome back to the channel.
In this video I am going to be carrying out a replacement of the fork seals, I will detail the steps required to remove the forks from the bike and how to completely strip each fork before demonstrating the method of reassembly.
I hope that you found this video informative and if you enjoyed it then please consider giving the video a like and perhaps a comment, don't forget to subscribe for more videos from Kevs Shed.
Good links to the parts used in the video are below.
Fork Seal and Bush kit
ebay.us/pMPzmy
Fork Oil, bear in mind that it takes 544ml of oil per fork with the standard air gap so you will need 2 bottles!
ebay.us/Y2A7pa
It was also requested that I linked both of the tools that I used in the video so here are the links:
ebay.us/v6VBWd
ebay.us/sWysEM
All links to products are affiliate links for which I will receive a small commission on any purchase made.
I hope that you enjoyed this video.
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You have literally just joined me in the kitchen rebuilding my forks!!! At the moment you said “don’t do it in the kitchen”
Was the moment the old fork oil when everywhere :) cheers matey really appreciate this!!
This is how all tutorials should be, great stuff!
Cheers buddy, means a lot 👌🏻
@Soren Castiel piss off jerk
Probably one of the best tutorials I've seen on fork seal replacement, excellent !
Wow, thanks!
Awesome explanation bro, I was wondering if I had to buy new right fork since the oil spill is tremendous all the way to the wheel when parked 😭...now I can just follow your steps hopefully in the right sequences 😂😂😂 thanks a million!!! 🙏🙏🙏
Thank you for this excellent video! I bought my 2006 VFR last July and noticed the left fork was leaking. It steered horribly slow, too. Following this video I did my first ever fork job without any issues whatsoever. No leaks and it rides like a brand new bike (to me!). Thanks for taking the time to create this content! A happy VFR owner.
Glad you enjoyed the video and that you were able to solve your handling problems! 👌🏻 don’t forget to subscribe for more VFR videos 👍🏻
I have a 98 vfr800fi and have had it now goin on 13 yrs and for a few years about yer ago it was my everyday ride never a prob with this bike but I do need to do my fork seal after watching this way easier then I was told it is thank you so much love mine will never get rid of it
That is awesome!
Awesome awesome video very thorough. Just took my Saturday to tear into it and was pleasantly surprised following this for one side
Thanks to your video my seal replacement on my 8th gen VFR went smooth as silk with no problems at all.
Awesome tutorial Kev, probably the best fork rebuild I've seen. I'm working on a VFR streetfighter conversion on my VTEC, and this has been really helpful in me converting the front forks to F4i lowers to delete the linked braking system
“Anyone can do it at home”
I’d be guaranteed to make a balls of it 😁
Great vid well explained.
Same here, happy I was able to drop the two legs without hurting anyone in the process...thanks to this video..well done indeed... ...Got an appointment with an indy shop around the corner that I trust 100% - regular Honda dealerships had all kind of excuses to not accept the job -likely because my VFR is from '95 and they're not really interested in keeping my bike on the road for too long..so far for interest in heritage..
I just wanted to drop a note of thanks for the fantastic tutorial. I do all my own work on all three of our motorcycles and I was a bit nervous about doing it on my 02 VFR. This video gave me all of the confidence I needed to do it.
One thing I wanted to warn people of is to be sure you order the right kit! I accidentally got the bushings kit but it didn't have the oil and dust seals! Totally my fault and new parts are on order. Thanks for doing this vid Kev! You are legendary!
Glad it helped! 👍🤓
Greetings from Russia! Going to re-build my vfr's fork, this is excellent guide! Thank you man!
Glad it helped! Good luck bud! 👌😎
Kev, I used your video to rebuild my forks and they came out perfect… Thanks!
You can see why the "dealer " didnt want to replace the seals lol. Thanks for uploading this too!
Finished rebuilding my forks a few days ago. Big thanks for the help Kev, keep up the good work!
Thanks Kev ! I just finished the rebuild of my fork with your video ✌️👌👍 thanks for your time to share all VFR stuff !
👌🏻😎
Yep enjoyed that. Good presentation. Easy to follow 👍
Good nd very informating video, just watch and done own vfr fork seal change with this, thanks👍
Thanks! Just finished my seals. You nearby to show me how. The first one had some troubles. The second one went much faster. Great! Of the next vfr clip. How to get my heatshield nice again.
2022, you are the man, just got a vfr2002 might attempt this smoetime soon :), thank you for the great content
Another easy to follow guide. 👍👏 I will buy the driving tool and fork oil gap syringe and have a go myself when mine are due. Thanks
Cheers buddy, don't forget to like and subscribe!
What an awesome walkthrough. Thanks Kev! I was considering taking mine to the shop to have them redone, but after seeing this I'm definitely doing it at home!
Cheers buddy, glad it was useful to you 👌🏻
Even covered the 24mm single hex socket and old school copper washer fit nice work Sir.
Another brilliant video !
Good vid I've done same on my old vfr 750 , I just put in sports spring while I was at it and made a load of difference.
Great video, I found it very informative and just the right pace.
Cheers buddy, glad you liked it!
Great demonstration of the process, very clear and made to look simple by Kev..
Cheers buddy!
Thanks for posting. Clear and compressive instructions.
Great Video. Working on my VFR 800 as well.
Easy to understand and clearly described I'm doing mine this weekend. Thanks mate !
Good luck mate 👌🏻
cheers kev next on my list before spring kicks in.
Brilliant Sir! Thanks for posting and cheers from the USA. 👍🏍
Glad you enjoyed it!
thankyou . so well explained and easy to follow
Excellent.. from across the pond. Thanks a ton. Great stuff. Nice camera-work. cheers.
perfect amount of information and schooling.......thank you very much
Really clear informative video.
Had to turn on subtitles ;), but excellent information! Thank you for putting this video together.
😂 no worries! 👌🏻
good and very interisting job !!! thanks a lot
Amazing, just amazing... Perfect tutorial.
Thanks man, glad you liked it! 👌🏻
Great video mate.. Very informative and helpful.. Stay upright. Cheers from down under.
Cheers buddy!
Credit to you , thanks very much. Very well explained
👌🏻😎
Great video. Thanks for posting this 👍🏻
You are welcome
What fork seal kits did you use? Nice vid has helped me with my planning for my winter maintenance project to do mine.
It helps me a lot! Many thanks Bro!
Brilliant tutorial....thanks Kev....
Great video, very easy to follow
Cheers buddy, don't forget to like and subscribe!
Hi Kevin
Just about to do my seals!
The direction of the seal?
Should the side with the spring visible "face the oil"
Thanks for your help?
the best chanel vfr
Cheers dude 👌🏻😎
@@KevsShed I bought a vfr 800 year 2003 impeccable kilometer 21000, price 2750 euro I receive it on Sunday
Really nice video. Thank you very much! Greetings from Germany.
Wow brother. Great video. One thing I have noticed lately with a lot of VFR videos is that the bike being worked on is usually the silver colour lol. Mine is silver also. This was very informative. Mine are not leaking, yet, but this definitely gives me an idea. I wonder if I did change them out a some point, how much more disassembly would be required to swap out the head bearings.
Once the forks are off it's pretty much already most of the way there! only the main yoke nut and the top yoke is off then the locknuts underneath and it's apart!
Very nice tutorial! Thank you very much!
It looks like the garage you bought the bike from popped the dust cap off and put some gasket sealant around the fork seal so you wouldn't notice the leak straight away. Somehow it ended up at the bottom of the fork.
top man Kev great video, I've got the same bike and I love it its got 40000 on it, but runs like a dream. any chance of doing a video on how to change the coolant thermostat, Ive got an idea, but I'm nowhere near as good as you r. cheers pal I love watching a good tech at work.
Good idea, I want to do a full service soon along with a coolant change so i'll add it to the list.
very helpful! Thanks
I’m pleased that the video helped you out 👌🏻
this is a good job
Lovely Video So detailed. A job Well Done
Cheers mate! 👌🏻
Great tutorial, thanks. Couple questions, I have -91 and manual says that there needs to be 175mm gap to oil and same manual says oil capacity 383cc, when adding similar amount, then needs to take 70cc out to reach gap. What to follow?
Great video, congratulations. What you showed, also applies to the forks of the Honda CBR 1100 XX 2002?
Great video Kev. Gave me the confidence to have a go. One went ok. But the other is proving hard to remove the damper bolt. The bolt turns but so is the damper cartridge. Can’t get it to release, any tips?
Your best bet would be to try and jam the damper from rotating with a length of pipe, I used this very method in my recent SV1000 fork rebuild video.
If you undo the top nut on the bike, make sure the socket doesn't slip off. It will break your clocks. I thank you!
Good man, excellent video!
Much appreciated! Glad you enjoyed it!
Love it perfect info I subbed cause this video thank you I needed this exact info
Thanks for the sub!
Great tutorial man!
Thank you so much.
Glad it helped!
I was wondering if you could show us how to unmount the cam chain tensioners for servicing/replacing them. I personally have read the steps from the service manual more than a couple of times, yet I have no clue how to access them properly. It would certainly be a very useful video for me but also for a lot of other Vfr800 owners, given the fact that they are awesome bikes that will run almost forever. Thank you in advance and the you for the amazing videos you bring us. 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Stefan adrian Ciobanescu already working on it 👍🏻
@@KevsShed thanks a lot man
Thanks!
First class video Kev, very clear and comprehensive. I have a 2000 VFR Fi-Y and it's first ever fork service is looming. Your video has given me confidence. Would you mind mentioning what fork seal kits you bought?
Thanks
I used a pyramid parts seal kit, I use them routinely on every fork rebuild I carry out and highly rate them 👌🏻
@@KevsShed did they hold up ok?
Very good
great videos very informative keep it up
Merci pour cette très belle video bien faite et claire ,maintenant je peux le faire moi même
Vous êtes les bienvenus !
Terrific video again thanks Kev👍🏻 I used a 15/16” socket on the top but as it’s slightly better fit😃 also, any tips to removing the lower bolt from the damper rod when it’s just spinning?
Cheers bud, did you try using a dugga, dugga gun? This is normally the way to get them out with the highest degree of success! I have however in the past used a section of copper pipe to try and jam the damper in place whilst getting the lower bolt out if you get my meaning!
@@KevsShed yes all sorted now thanks Kev👍🏻 Just got one stantion to remove as it’s being a bugger🤣
nice job great video thanks
Realmente es un tutorial muy bueno. Podrias dar las referencias de las piezas utilizadas?.
Gracias.
Great video, going to do it on my VFR750.
Noticed you didn’t put electrical tape at the top of stachion? And sand down the pits. Aren’t you worried that you could nick the seal lip as you slide it down?
Hi buddy, thanks for the comment. I understand that some people do that to try and avoid damaging the seals however in my experience the seals really aren’t that delicate when they are brand new and pliable! Touch wood, I haven’t had a problem with any fork seals up to this point and I’ve changed an awful lot! Were the forks that pitted that they would damage the seal then I would probably change the stanchion anyway. I hope that answers your question 👌🏻
Kevs Shed Thanks for the quick reply... It’s my first time doing it, so I’m collecting tips from you experienced mechs.. I see when I get the forks out how bad they look and feel...
Also subscribed to your channel.. 👍🏻
Martin Wahlstrøm awesome, thanks 👌🏻
Great tutorial Kev, what stand are you using? Thanks
It’s an ABBA Skylift buddy 👌🏻
😎 Thanks
Can you please post the parts needed to do it, if part numbers that would be even great.
Loved the video, motivates me to fix my fork as well
I certainly can mate, give me a little bit and I’ll get you direct links for everything! 👌🏻
There you go mate, I’ve linked it in the video description 👍🏻
@@KevsShed amazing, thank you so much
Another question from me, Do you also have a step by step guide to mount back the fork and put the handle bar at correct angle?
Great vid, can you do the folks seals whilst on centre stand?
Cheers
I’ve done it previously with bikes on centre stands. Just put something heavy on the pillion seat and the front will stay up. For safety stick something under the exhaust headers so it don’t topple forwards! Ideally, if you have the opportunity, strap it from the garage took around the top yoke. 👍🏻
Very helpful, thank you! Conceptually, are you able to fully remove bolt in the bottom of the fork screwed into the damper rod before removing the top cap? Ignoring the potential oil mess
If you don’t care about the obvious mess then I guess that you could, you wouldn’t be able to reassemble that way though. You’d never get the bolt in. I’ve never tried to though so could be overlooking something obvious.
@@KevsShed much appreciated!
Very informative video, I'd definitely be willing to give mine a go now. Was going to consider changing the springs too, someone on the forum mentioned progressive springs. What u reckon?
Hey bud, glad it helped you decide that you could do this job yourself! On the subject of springs though, the ones that I removed and refitted on my forks are the factory fitted springs and they are progressive springs. If you have another look at the video when I pull the spring out you can see that the bottom of the spring is more tightly wound than the rest of the spring, this is a progressive spring. Linear springs have their coils identically wound all along the length of the spring. 👌
@@KevsShed So they are, I did take another look. Sometimes the forums offer good advice and sometimes not. But a flush of the fork oil would probably work wonders anyway.
Thanks for posting buddy. where do you buy your parts?
I use various places such as Wemoto but for OEM parts Fowlers win hands down!
Good video, but fork seal was installed upside down? The oil side of the seal is the side with the spring ?
I've just done the seals on my NT700 and it had a spring on both sides of the seal. So a good spot but nothing to worry about.
Brilliant video! What is the stand you use to hold the bike in the air?
Kev any hints for when the stantions won't slide out of the lower fork leg the bugger is stuck solid 😫😫😫
Excellent how to guide. Really good.
Couple of questions.
What did you use to clean the crud and old oil out of the fork casings, the damper etc? Would brake and clutch cleaner be suitable?
Also are the fork seal installation driver tool and then the oil level syringe tool widely available? If so where? If you put links above then you can make a bit of cash off them.
Thanks again. Liked and sub'd.
I left the forks each to drain for around 10-15 mins then I used some lanolin wipes to clean them thoroughly. The seal driver and the level tool I believe that I got from M&P motorcycles, it was quite some time ago!
Thanks for the sub buddy, really appreciated!
Good idea about the tools! I’ve added the links into the video description 👌🏻
I thought a 1 litre bottle of oil was enough for both forks as the manual says they take something around 450ml in each fork? what weight did you use?
I got Motul 10wt fork oil for my 5th gen, debating whether I should get new springs but I suppose just having fresh oil in them will improve the damping.
I'm over 6ft and weigh 17.5 stone so I was thinking stronger springs in the forks and maybe a new shock set for my weight when I can afford it, they are pricey, Hagon are the cheapest.
great vid.
On the 5th Gen it is 457ml per fork and 6th Gen it is 544ml per fork. I used 10w in mine, if you are of the lighter build then you could use a thinner oil.
D you have to do in pairs if only one is leaking? Great vid 👏
merci
Brilliant video.I followed it to the letter but unfortunately my forks are both leaking after installing new stanchions and seals. No idea where I’ve gone wrong? I read that it could be because of a bad reinstall of the forks. I.e twisting but I’m not sure. Any ideas where to start please folks? Thanks
Are they genuine or aftermarket seals? Did they fit tightly, do the stanchion dimensions match perfectly to the originals? There’s a few different variables here bud!
@@KevsShed Yer mate, genuine Honda parts, all dims correct. Scratching my ugly bald head. Might go see a garage about this one....
Hi, great tutorial, thank you. Is this pretty much the same for a '98 5th Gen? And are there any special or unusual tools that are needed? Also, it is fine just to replace the seals? Thanks
Pretty much identical, the only real difference is that Gen 5s have 41mm diameter forks and Gen 6s have 43mm forks. Only the tools I used in the video really mate, you can get away with fashioning a seal driver out of a piece of poly waste pipe if you want to save a bit of cash though. Not sure what you meant about just replacing the seals though?
@@KevsShed Thank you, that's really kind to have replied. And thanks for the tip on saving a bit with the pipe...just hard times at the moment. I'm even needing to get spanners at the right size, as I don't have many tools...yet.
Just the seals comment...sorry, it seems some kits on ebay have seals with fork oil and not the extra bushes consumables, whilst others have everything you had on the vid.
Anyway...subscribed. Thank you for such a comprehensive walkthrough! Inspires confidence. :)
My Australian 2005 has the part I mentioned. Some variation between models I guess
Hmm that’s quite interesting, I’d be interested to see the part you mean mate. I’m curious to see the difference between bikes from different territories! 👌🏻
@@KevsShed I’ve got a photo send me an email address and I send it over.
It’s a H/D dished washer that sits on top of the spacer tube and the nut is above it. It has a slot so it can be installed from the side.
Seat, Spring 51404MR7003 my apologies you did install it. All the best mate
No worries mate, thanks for watching 👌🏻
Maybe this is stupid question, but how do you get the front wheel off the ground if you don't have one of those awesome stands? Is there a different, cheaper type of lift that would work?
You can try to use the center stand , remove the entire fairing and use a wood block / small jack to lift . Works. Or do like me and shop for this awesome bike stand.
I’m doing the job today and just put the bike on the centre stand and used my security chain to tie the back wheel against the ground with a ground anchor. (Proper stand is on my Xmas list)
hello. I replaced the fork seals but they easily went into the lower legs - I pushed them with my hands and now it's leaking again. Before the exchange, it leak only on the right side, now it leaks on both. what is wrong? bad seals?
Hi Kev. Looking for some advice. I can't get the forks to separate as the top slider bush is stuck in place. What do you reckon? I have tried heat and multiple whacks.
Really good vid, and good explained too. By the way, you talk very very fast... LOL :-)
Thanks for the kind words. I’ll bear it in mind for future videos and try to slow my talking down a bit 👌🏻
18:58 Well i just made that mistake. Is there any solution for the problem where the bottom bolt just turns the damper rod?
How did u get that sealant out of bottom of fork leg, clean with petroleum?
Great video! Any idea on the torque spec for the top 24mm nut?
Shawn Belanger according to the workshop manual the top nut is torqued to 23Nm 👍🏻
can you confirm that it is a 100mm gap with the spring removed?
Hi mate, yes I can confirm that it is a 100mm air gap. Each fork leg should take 544ml but measuring the air gap is the most accurate method. 👌🏻
According workshop manual you must apply thread locker to lower bolt. You didn’t.
Correct, best make sure that you do then ;)
Good way to fuck up the brand new seal going at it with no seal bullet/plastic bag and some grease
I also have a 2003 VFR and with staying at home, I want to replace my old oil too.
Did you buy a special kit for or each pieces one by one ?
Thanks for this usefull video
Hi mate, did you mean each individual seal? In my case, I bought a seal kit and then bought the oil separately. The choice of oil is up to you really, I bought a slightly thicker oil as I’m a big bloke and therefore needed a bit more damping otherwise it would have been far too soft for me. The seal kits are widely available from any motorcycle parts vendor or eBay. If you live in the UK the Fowler’s are an excellent resource for genuine Honda seals although they will cost more and they generally sell each part individually so you will need to make sure that you have everything that you need. I hope this helps, good luck with the job 👌🏻
Kevs Shed thanks Kevin, I’m from France and I also have wemoto here.
In your video, your kit is more complete than just seals and dust protections. Bush guide and slider (11 &12 ) in bike parts.
If you could share this kit ?
Sheers
Jerome Druais All Balls I believe. SKF or Honda OEM seals are the best bet.
@@wirenut3020 That is correct, I used All Balls on these forks, I have never personally had any reason to dislike All Balls, however I would agree that Genuine OEM would be best if you are willing to pay the difference.
Hi guys, I finally found and bought all ball kit ! Thanks
Kev can you tell me is it possible to change the rear spark plugs on a VTEC without removing the tank?
Thanks
Ian
I would say no mate, and even if you could it would probably take longer than taking the tank off would take. I don’t think you’ll get the stick coils out with the tank on.
Hey Ian, it is possible but you'll need a spark plug wrench with a swivel in order to get it down into the channel that houses the spark plug. My bike came with one that was able to do the trick, but it was a VERY close fit. Taking the extra time to fully remove your tank would make things much easier and you wouldn't run as much risk of breaking off a plug in your engine block.