After watching your video I replace my front rotors and pads. Bought parts online and saved around $1100. Was easy. Thank you for sharing these videos.
Carlos, just keep doing such DIY videos... very informative, and a lot of people will appreciate your effort. I'm one of them. And I'm sure more people will join you over time.
Thanks so much for posting this Carlos! I was always afraid of doing this job for safety reasons (as you stated in your rear brakes video) I thought that brake fluid would be somehow affected. Great job! I will tackle this job when needed because of this video!
@@cartalkwithcarlos1785 Ha! Thanks. I’m definitely a bit of a track addict. Here’s me in a different car at last weekend’s SCCA race at LRP. Skip to the restart around 34:15. I started this race at the back of the grid due to literally losing a wheel and a DNF in an earlier race that day. :) ua-cam.com/video/cm3LT2-OP20/v-deo.html
@@cartalkwithcarlos1785 It was not a great race result, but it was an incredibly fun race. Happy to have that track excitement in a Miata vs my car! ;)
Great video Carlos! Thanks for the long take, much appreciated. Good luck at your next DE. I just got back from a major DE at Watkins Glen and my new rear brakes worked great. Still have another DE on the fronts before needing to swap. Thinking about tire choices as well these days. Dedicated Cup 2s for track or track the PS4S I just got?
@@cartalkwithcarlos1785 If you had the choice or opportunity to trailer the car to the track, would you put Hoosier R7s on the 20" OEM Carrera S wheels? Or stick with Cup 2s and similar DOT approved extreme rubber?
@@cartalkwithcarlos1785 Hey Carlos, wish there was a way to DM through youtube but have no idea so sorry to hijack your comments thread here - I have more questions about the Cup 2 choice issue. Just want to know more from you about why your experience with them leads you to want slicks instead. I'm on the cusp of plunking down $1800 with Tire Rack for a set of Cup 2s for my 17' 911 for dedicated track use (have trailer) and most higher experienced DE folks I've talked to encourage me as an intermediate DE driver with a basic car (not a GT or track prepped dedicated car) to stick with Cup 2 or similar compound tire as there is much more progressive behavior at the limit than Hoosier R7s or Pirelli slicks. The race compound slicks will just fall off a sudden cliff at the limit and will also burn through their heat cycles quicker than we would lose tread life on Cup 2s. Yes the grip is fantastic but the trade off for folks with our type of cars is high. Wondering your thoughts on this. I trust your instincts and we are in very similar cars. By the way, I would be putting my Cup 2s on dedicated 19" wheels, not my OEM 20"s. I'll be getting a little more shoulder but still have same mm tread width (245 front and 305 rear).
Hey, no problem about the DM through YT. I'm enjoying the conversation. I'm not an expert on tires, and the reason I said I would get a dedicated race compound if I had a trailer is purely based on price. But I just checked TireRack and found that the Hoosiers are more expensive than the Cup2s. Wow, that must be a great tire! Please don't get me wrong, the Cup2s are fantastic tires and I strongly recommend them. After switching to Cup2s my lap times improved significantly because they are better tires, but also because they give me more confidence to push closer to the limit. They never get greasy like the PZeros did and you can feel when grip is at the limit. That being said, it's an expensive tire, so for the next set I'm thinking about getting something a little cheaper that I won't feel bad about burning through a set in a few track days. If you are in the cusp of buying a set of Cup2s, go for it. They are amazing tires.
Thanks for doing this video, really helpful for dyi people. Question for you, is it "mandatory" to replace the rotors when replacing the pads, or just recommended? I saw your comment about cracks. My rotors aren't cracked but there is a small lip on the outter edge of the rotors. It looked like yours had the same lip from the pads wearing the rotor. The new rotors didn't appear to have that lip, they looked perfectly smooth. My 991.2 has 20k miles, the pads are over 30% and does not get tracked. Looks like doing just the pads is pretty easy and quick. And cheaper
It's only mandatory if you are doing at the dealer but if you DIY you can definitely choose to do only pads. In terms of work it's not much different because you have to remove the calipers to change the pads, and when calipers are removed it's so easy to replace the rotors. But from a cost standpoint doing just pads is much cheaper. Have fun in your garage!
I’m curious, how many miles did you have on these rotors before changing? Was it necessary to change rotors? Or did you just want to be safe? Thanks again.
The front rotors had 25k miles and they were getting cracked around the holes. According to Porsche cracking is normal and you can keep using the brakes until the cracks grow to a certain size (I believe you absolutely must replace the rotors when cracks connect from one hole to another). I figured since I track the car it was safer to replace the rotors because of the cracks. I should have taken a picture before I trashed the old rotor.
Sorry, I reused the same bolt so I don't know where you can purchase it. Did you lose it? 😮 I'm sure the dealership will be happy to sell you an overpriced one 😂
@@cartalkwithcarlos1785 Thanks for the reply. In the user manual, it indicates the size is 8.8 m6 * 16 mm. Mine is broken in the hole. And I need to pull it out later.
After watching your video I replace my front rotors and pads. Bought parts online and saved around $1100. Was easy. Thank you for sharing these videos.
I'm glad it helped!
Carlos, just keep doing such DIY videos... very informative, and a lot of people will appreciate your effort. I'm one of them. And I'm sure more people will join you over time.
Thanks so much for posting this Carlos! I was always afraid of doing this job for safety reasons (as you stated in your rear brakes video) I thought that brake fluid would be somehow affected. Great job! I will tackle this job when needed because of this video!
I'm glad it helped!
Thanks for doing these videos
great video. earned alot thank you
Thank you for making/posting this video. It was a big help as I went through this process myself.
I'm glad it helped!
BTW, nice onboard videos in your channel.
@@cartalkwithcarlos1785 Ha! Thanks. I’m definitely a bit of a track addict. Here’s me in a different car at last weekend’s SCCA race at LRP. Skip to the restart around 34:15. I started this race at the back of the grid due to literally losing a wheel and a DNF in an earlier race that day. :)
ua-cam.com/video/cm3LT2-OP20/v-deo.html
Very nice! I had fun watching this. Lots of overtaking. The spin at 00:35 and the double overtake at 00:42 💯
@@cartalkwithcarlos1785 It was not a great race result, but it was an incredibly fun race. Happy to have that track excitement in a Miata vs my car! ;)
Thanks for the informative video. Will you be doing a video on changing your own spark plugs?
Sorry, I'm not planning on changing spark plugs in my car anytime soon, but there are videos on UA-cam already about that.
How is the Porsche dealer flushing and refilling the brake fluid without removing the wheels?
Do you have a link to the brake pad wear sensors and caliper bolts for purchase online? I really appreciate the thorough video. Thanks for making it!
Thanks for the feedback, really appreciate it. I bought everything on Suncoast. Here is the link: www.suncoastparts.com/category/991G2SBRASTD.html
Great video Carlos! Thanks for the long take, much appreciated. Good luck at your next DE. I just got back from a major DE at Watkins Glen and my new rear brakes worked great. Still have another DE on the fronts before needing to swap. Thinking about tire choices as well these days. Dedicated Cup 2s for track or track the PS4S I just got?
I'm happy with the Cup2s but they are quite expensive. I'm thinking about something different for the next set.
@@cartalkwithcarlos1785 If you had the choice or opportunity to trailer the car to the track, would you put Hoosier R7s on the 20" OEM Carrera S wheels? Or stick with Cup 2s and similar DOT approved extreme rubber?
Good question. If I had a trailer I think I would go with a full race compound.
@@cartalkwithcarlos1785 Hey Carlos, wish there was a way to DM through youtube but have no idea so sorry to hijack your comments thread here - I have more questions about the Cup 2 choice issue. Just want to know more from you about why your experience with them leads you to want slicks instead. I'm on the cusp of plunking down $1800 with Tire Rack for a set of Cup 2s for my 17' 911 for dedicated track use (have trailer) and most higher experienced DE folks I've talked to encourage me as an intermediate DE driver with a basic car (not a GT or track prepped dedicated car) to stick with Cup 2 or similar compound tire as there is much more progressive behavior at the limit than Hoosier R7s or Pirelli slicks. The race compound slicks will just fall off a sudden cliff at the limit and will also burn through their heat cycles quicker than we would lose tread life on Cup 2s. Yes the grip is fantastic but the trade off for folks with our type of cars is high. Wondering your thoughts on this. I trust your instincts and we are in very similar cars. By the way, I would be putting my Cup 2s on dedicated 19" wheels, not my OEM 20"s. I'll be getting a little more shoulder but still have same mm tread width (245 front and 305 rear).
Hey, no problem about the DM through YT. I'm enjoying the conversation. I'm not an expert on tires, and the reason I said I would get a dedicated race compound if I had a trailer is purely based on price. But I just checked TireRack and found that the Hoosiers are more expensive than the Cup2s. Wow, that must be a great tire! Please don't get me wrong, the Cup2s are fantastic tires and I strongly recommend them. After switching to Cup2s my lap times improved significantly because they are better tires, but also because they give me more confidence to push closer to the limit. They never get greasy like the PZeros did and you can feel when grip is at the limit. That being said, it's an expensive tire, so for the next set I'm thinking about getting something a little cheaper that I won't feel bad about burning through a set in a few track days. If you are in the cusp of buying a set of Cup2s, go for it. They are amazing tires.
Thanks for doing this video, really helpful for dyi people.
Question for you, is it "mandatory" to replace the rotors when replacing the pads, or just recommended? I saw your comment about cracks. My rotors aren't cracked but there is a small lip on the outter edge of the rotors. It looked like yours had the same lip from the pads wearing the rotor. The new rotors didn't appear to have that lip, they looked perfectly smooth.
My 991.2 has 20k miles, the pads are over 30% and does not get tracked.
Looks like doing just the pads is pretty easy and quick. And cheaper
It's only mandatory if you are doing at the dealer but if you DIY you can definitely choose to do only pads. In terms of work it's not much different because you have to remove the calipers to change the pads, and when calipers are removed it's so easy to replace the rotors. But from a cost standpoint doing just pads is much cheaper. Have fun in your garage!
I’m curious, how many miles did you have on these rotors before changing? Was it necessary to change rotors? Or did you just want to be safe? Thanks again.
The front rotors had 25k miles and they were getting cracked around the holes. According to Porsche cracking is normal and you can keep using the brakes until the cracks grow to a certain size (I believe you absolutely must replace the rotors when cracks connect from one hole to another). I figured since I track the car it was safer to replace the rotors because of the cracks. I should have taken a picture before I trashed the old rotor.
Thank you for the video Carlos! What about brake bleeding? Do you have this done separately?
Good question, I've never bled my brakes but I'm planning to do it sometime next year so maybe I can record a video then.
Do you happen to know where I can purchase the bolt at the video time 14:29? 😀
Sorry, I reused the same bolt so I don't know where you can purchase it. Did you lose it? 😮 I'm sure the dealership will be happy to sell you an overpriced one 😂
@@cartalkwithcarlos1785 Thanks for the reply. In the user manual, it indicates the size is 8.8 m6 * 16 mm. Mine is broken in the hole. And I need to pull it out later.