Hi Chris Please please please please please please please change the battery in that shenanigans alarm soon. Me and the wife really appreciate the videos and your great humor. All the best Neil
Thanks so much for watching and lovely comments. I will be changing the battery soon but just taking a break from UA-cam at the moment and enjoying the summer. My very best wishes to you and wife and my very best regards. Chris
To get the most out of an alligator automotive battery charging clamp, the clamp should have a braided jumper strap between the cable input side jaw connection and the opposite jaw connection. This way charging current can flow using both jaws (without just relying on the pivot point conduction), because after all, usually the current is flowing through a very small cross sectional surface area of the jaw teeth. The best approach for modern high current battery chargers is to use tinned copper flexible braid crimped to tinned copper eyelets, which then attach to the clamp handles (and jaw connection) using brass hardware (Bolt, nut, washer and lock washer). The braid is very flexible so you can easily operate the jaws and still have a two jaw high current connection. For a lead acid starting battery, the first charging phase is called bulk charging. To bulk charge the battery, the popular modern approach is to use a constant current charge of up to C/10 rate, while at the same time not over volt the battery beyond its specification, for a flooded starting battery I think this is around 15 volts. So when the battery charging voltage at the battery has reached its maximum the constant current magnitude will slowly drop, and we then enter the next absorption phase. As you can see in using the charger, there can be a substantial difference in the charger output voltage relative to the voltage at the battery clamps (battery posts) with high charge currents. Ideally the charger would have a four wire connection if monitoring the voltage at the battery was key to the design. I have seen red and black charging cables that have two circuits one 14AWG and one 4AWG which then connect to the clamps. The 4AWG is for the charging current and the 14AWG is the voltmeter sense connection. Not sure if this cable type is a special order, but I have seen it on many automotive load testers. There is no reason why you could not use this type of cable for a charger.
Haven't heard the name Crypton since my boy racer days back in the early 80's. We all dreamed (no money!) of getting our engines Crypton tuned.....or was that Krypton? My dad had a car repair shop back in the late 70's......I am sure he had one of these chargers.
I remember the tuning name I don’t remember if it was with a K. The equipment does look cool and vintage I like the Sun engine stations. Maybe I will buy one for a restoration
Great video Chris. Good news it's working. Can't wait to try it on my truck. Your chevy is looking good. I note you said current shunt carefully. Would won't to get that tongue twisted. Lol.
Found an ad on the net that says this is a Crypton Chargemaster model AD-40 from 1964. Believe it was a fast charger but only good for up to 30 Amps. So this was your typical city garage everday battery charger back in the day. Not for heavy duty use but autos for sure. Now the Chargemaster Major, Batterymaster, and Deiselmaster they were top of the line models giving better fast charging at 100 to 200 Amps. Those could do 6,12, and 24 Volt batteries. You might find an original Crypton ammeter on eBay Chris. 10 Amp might work , it may peg into the red in the beginning of a charge cycle.
That probe might have mercury in it for the function of pushing the rod up. I remember some of the early models had it in them while others just had air pockets for expansion. you could use a vibrating device to loosen up the rod while it is being heated and cooled rapidly(what i used to do to get them working) but be aware they never were accurate , so adjustment may be needed and reglue the set screws.
Very interesting piece of Vintage equipment. They certainly knew how to make things rugged, back in the day... I suspect an engineer nowadays would dimension the values of a comparable charger right on its limits rather than going for overdimensioning it. Planned obsolescence wasn't looming large in the fifties it would seem... now would I want such a beast in my garage? Definitely not :)
Thats a good old charger, nothing weak or weedy about that beast 😀 I'm no lover of selinium rectum friers, but they are forgiving. I would think silicon stud diodes would fail under repeated high loads. The voltage would be a bit higher as well. I would add more earth wires to make sure all the case panals had a perfect earth. That transformer is a solid old beast.
Yes it is a good old unit but not sure how safe it would be for modern vehicles electronics. I think the big stud diodes would be ok but I was worried the output voltage would be too high.
I would be tempted to remove that aluminum top panel (pop rivets!) - to see if the original panel markings are still there. Also, I would be reluctant to use the thermostatic probe even if it could be restored to working condition as many modern batteries do not have insulation sheets over the tops of the plates as older batteries did. Regards, David
I’m fairly sure that the top panel is the original but it is so corroded it is hard to tell. I’m not doing any cosmetic work on it as it will be up to Andy how it’s finished.
Just seen this interesting video. A l -o -n -g time ago now I worked in a garage where they had a similar Crypton battery charger and you are right about that probe was designed to be put into one of the battery cells to avoid overcharging .
Hope you are well lad, we've not heard from you for a while(?) All is good this end, the missus still doesn't like me having my Sam Fox pin-up photos (despite the fact that she still has strong feelings for Nik Kershaw). We've just got over a BAD case of Covid, plus certain family issues, plus work etc. Anyway, had two tins of Websters, and kissed the budgie, and wished him Good Night. The missus is now creeping down stairs weilding her Frying Pan. Night Chris 😖😖💫💫💫😵💫😵💫😵💫🍳🍳🍳🍳✨️✨️✨️✨️✨️✨️✨️✨️
Very interesting video, Chris, as usual...
Thanks for watching
Hi Chris
Please please please please please please please change the battery in that shenanigans alarm soon.
Me and the wife really appreciate the videos and your great humor.
All the best
Neil
Thanks so much for watching and lovely comments. I will be changing the battery soon but just taking a break from UA-cam at the moment and enjoying the summer. My very best wishes to you and wife and my very best regards. Chris
Hope to see your sweet Chevy truck in operation again soon. That truck is a sure Barnsley girl magnet.
Yes I really should get out in the truck haven’t run it this year
To get the most out of an alligator automotive battery charging clamp, the clamp should have a braided jumper strap between the cable input side jaw connection and the opposite jaw connection. This way charging current can flow using both jaws (without just relying on the pivot point conduction), because after all, usually the current is flowing through a very small cross sectional surface area of the jaw teeth. The best approach for modern high current battery chargers is to use tinned copper flexible braid crimped to tinned copper eyelets, which then attach to the clamp handles (and jaw connection) using brass hardware (Bolt, nut, washer and lock washer). The braid is very flexible so you can easily operate the jaws and still have a two jaw high current connection.
For a lead acid starting battery, the first charging phase is called bulk charging. To bulk charge the battery, the popular modern approach is to use a constant current charge of up to C/10 rate, while at the same time not over volt the battery beyond its specification, for a flooded starting battery I think this is around 15 volts. So when the battery charging voltage at the battery has reached its maximum the constant current magnitude will slowly drop, and we then enter the next absorption phase.
As you can see in using the charger, there can be a substantial difference in the charger output voltage relative to the voltage at the battery clamps (battery posts) with high charge currents.
Ideally the charger would have a four wire connection if monitoring the voltage at the battery was key to the design. I have seen red and black charging cables that have two circuits one 14AWG and one 4AWG which then connect to the clamps. The 4AWG is for the charging current and the 14AWG is the voltmeter sense connection. Not sure if this cable type is a special order, but I have seen it on many automotive load testers. There is no reason why you could not use this type of cable for a charger.
Haven't heard the name Crypton since my boy racer days back in the early 80's. We all dreamed (no money!) of getting our engines Crypton tuned.....or was that Krypton?
My dad had a car repair shop back in the late 70's......I am sure he had one of these chargers.
I remember the tuning name I don’t remember if it was with a K. The equipment does look cool and vintage I like the Sun engine stations. Maybe I will buy one for a restoration
Like it Chris! A very retro unit… it goes with the big old lead acid batteries. Great video.
Totally lost on what your talking about , but a very enjoyable video !
Great video Chris. Good news it's working. Can't wait to try it on my truck. Your chevy is looking good. I note you said current shunt carefully. Would won't to get that tongue twisted. Lol.
I think the safety probe is going to be a wax driven unit, much like a engine thermostat
Yes I think that could be a good call on the thermostat unfortunately it sealed so not serviceable. I will take another look this week
Found an ad on the net that says this is a Crypton Chargemaster model AD-40 from 1964. Believe it was a fast charger
but only good for up to 30 Amps. So this was your typical city garage everday battery charger back in the day. Not for
heavy duty use but autos for sure. Now the Chargemaster Major, Batterymaster, and Deiselmaster they were top of the line
models giving better fast charging at 100 to 200 Amps. Those could do 6,12, and 24 Volt batteries. You might find an
original Crypton ammeter on eBay Chris. 10 Amp might work , it may peg into the red in the beginning of a charge cycle.
I assumed it would be more I did find a picture of the meter and I think it shows 120A but it could have been a different model
41:30 Inside that probe is probably a wax capsule with a small rod, like in a water cooling thermostat, but here for closing a contact.
Very Nice Work Chris And Very Entertaing Iam Sure Your Mate Will Do a Great Job On The Cosmetis As Well Thanks Fo The Upload Regards mike.
That probe might have mercury in it for the function of pushing the rod up. I remember some of the early models had it in them while others just had air pockets for expansion. you could use a vibrating device to loosen up the rod while it is being heated and cooled rapidly(what i used to do to get them working) but be aware they never were accurate , so adjustment may be needed and reglue the set screws.
Ok I will give that a try thanks
Very interesting piece of Vintage equipment. They certainly knew how to make things rugged, back in the day... I suspect an engineer nowadays would dimension the values of a comparable charger right on its limits rather than going for overdimensioning it. Planned obsolescence wasn't looming large in the fifties it would seem... now would I want such a beast in my garage? Definitely not :)
Yes I think it could easily destroy electronics in a modern car so not sure how much use it will actually be. But it was fun taking a look inside
Thats a good old charger, nothing weak or weedy about that beast 😀
I'm no lover of selinium rectum friers, but they are forgiving.
I would think silicon stud diodes would fail under repeated high loads.
The voltage would be a bit higher as well.
I would add more earth wires to make sure all the case panals had a perfect earth.
That transformer is a solid old beast.
Yes it is a good old unit but not sure how safe it would be for modern vehicles electronics. I think the big stud diodes would be ok but I was worried the output voltage would be too high.
Indeed all the gear but also plenty of idea 😊
Thanks for watching and nice comments. Best regards Chris
Obviously the switch will be trickle normal and fast charge. Wonder if there is a 6/12v switch option.
They did various versions but this one is just 12v
I would be tempted to remove that aluminum top panel (pop rivets!) - to see if the original panel markings are still there. Also, I would be reluctant to use the thermostatic probe even if it could be restored to working condition as many modern batteries do not have insulation sheets over the tops of the plates as older batteries did. Regards, David
I’m fairly sure that the top panel is the original but it is so corroded it is hard to tell. I’m not doing any cosmetic work on it as it will be up to Andy how it’s finished.
Just seen this interesting video. A l -o -n -g time ago now I worked in a garage where they had a similar Crypton battery charger and you are right about that probe was designed to be put into one of the battery cells to avoid overcharging .
It goes to 11!
It does indeed got to 11. They beat Spinal Tap to the joke
wow you talk alot (grin) great video , Best regards Shaun
I talk a lot of Rubbish LOL
😳☝That fan still sounds a bit noisy! Shame about the probe.
My friend Andy will do all the mechanical restoration so he will rebuild the motor. Thanks for watching regards Chris
@@allthegearnoidea6752 Sure will Chris. Is it a noisy bearing or impeller catching on the frame?
Hope you are well lad, we've not heard from you for a while(?) All is good this end, the missus still doesn't like me having my Sam Fox pin-up photos (despite the fact that she still has strong feelings for Nik Kershaw). We've just got over a BAD case of Covid, plus certain family issues, plus work etc.
Anyway, had two tins of Websters, and kissed the budgie, and wished him Good Night. The missus is now creeping down stairs weilding her Frying Pan. Night Chris 😖😖💫💫💫😵💫😵💫😵💫🍳🍳🍳🍳✨️✨️✨️✨️✨️✨️✨️✨️