Stupid-Easy $1.00 CHAINSAW HACK That'll SAVE YOUR BACK
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- Опубліковано 26 лис 2019
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I measure all my pieces with the eyecrometer
I didn't think anyone even did this measuring, rediculous.
Totally agree. Eyeball mk 1
Same here.
Ever get sawdust in the eyecrometer
I have a built in ruler. Ouch!
I am one of those guys that doesn't use a cheater stick at all. That is too much work as you said. My wood stove takes up to a 22" log (and you can put stuff in there that is a little longer) but I tend to cut my wood to 18" just so it is easier to haul out of the woods by hand. To achieve the 18" log, I use my 18" chainsaw. Guess what I use to measure one cut to the next? You guessed! The 18" bar on my chainsaw. I cut a log off, turn the saw 90°, eyeball where the end of the bar is and make my next cut there. Quick, simple, no extra tools, and for a wood pile, you get close enough for a fine looking stack off wood. What about cutting trees that are bigger than my 18" saw should be used on, well, I don't harvest those as the logs are too heavy to haul out of the woods.
Yeah exactly. I literally thought everybody did this. If you want 16” or 20” it’s not hard to eyeball short or longer and get within acceptable tolerance....for firewood 🤷♂️
I measure my firewood cuts with a micrometer and shave the oversize lengths with a wood plane. Each end is then polished to a high finish then varnished.
do you fill the imperfectios?
👍🏻😂
If you keep your wood pile outside be sure to use a nice marine grade spar varnish. It holds up better against the elements; constant moisture, and the suns ultraviolet rays. That way on overcast days you dont have to put the waxed cotton cover back on right away after you take a few logs off to split.
.....go to your room Coober.
Pro tip: wash out an old ketchup bottle to keep bar and chain oil handy. No mess refilling and easy to carry around
I just learned more from this comment, great idea!!
@@anthony1981 haha great grandaddy wasnt no fool. Thank you!
Never heard of anyone worrying about the lengths, everyone I know just eyeballs it
I don't either but if he wants the exact lengthy then u know?
Maybe they are an engineer for NASA???
Some people go to great lengths....to waste time
@@papabear149 i tried to go to great lengths to waste time but then i realized that I needed a magnetic pvc bar to measure the great lengths.
I measure and cut so I can get full length for my splitter.
Or just use your bar to measure your log length.
That is exactly what I do it saves time .
That is what my dad does
Ditto
I use my wife's boyfriend's pe......... Well...you get the picture.
My bar is 52 cm long... Simple.
This should be titled "How obsessive compulsive people cut firewood."
Chicken Fried Bobcat you probably do not cut firewood.
@@matthaynes4741 I live west of Yakima WA in the mountains. Wood is my ONLY source of heat. I cut 6 cords for myself and 3 cords for my mother in law every year. After cutting literally thousands of rounds of wood, if I can't accurately judge my desired length for my stove then I should sell my saw and move to the city, right next door to you Matt.
@@chickenfriedbobcat6090 I'm with your brother and I think most of the people out there feel the same way
@@chickenfriedbobcat6090 did you ever cut a log too big and then have to redo all 9 cords of wood. Its best to just throw it all away and redo all 9 cords just to be sure. Better safe than sorry is the ONLY attitude towards fire wood. If its not just the right length it will never take a flame.... you could put a blowtorch to it even and still get nothing
I started cutting wood in 1965 and have never met anyone that was needing exact length wood, however I think the idea could be a help at times for people who are that weird
I'm no spring chicken either and I use a measure every time. The main reasons are i maximize the wood I get in the truck and in the wood pile and in the stove. A neat wood shed is a bonus. I just run down the log and make a series of quick hacks with my fallers ax which is exactly 18 inches.
Like Jeff, I use the bar on my saw. Since I cut my firewood to 16 in and my bar is 16 in it is easy to put the saw on the log, pivot, and cut. Quick and easy without having an extra piece to loose.
Hmmm, I never thought that exact length firewood was that important thus needing exact measurements.
As long as it fits in the stove.
I understand your thinking but after you cut enough wood I think you develop an "eye" for it.
I wouldn't be caught dead havin my lady seeing that training wheel on my saws 😅
I'm confused. You don't have anything in your house that burns wood. Why do you need to cut firewood, again?
hot tub?
Content… more content more money.
@@tomdale1313 that makes sense
They have the wood fired hot tub.
The Old 'Logger's' way: Depending on your desired cut length: Just get a 16 Inch or 18 inch Bar and use the saws bar as your 'Cheat Stick'. Nose at cut end, pivot the bar at the dogs (The Teeth at the Body of the saw) Make next perpendicular cut. repeat until you run out of log. Waste less time marking, and Get more cut in that time. Logs greater than 16-18 inch diameter? You're going to need a longer bar, (and to do some splitting later.) Merely Mark the bar at 16 to 18 inches from the dogs, line up that mark with the previous cut end, pivot at the dogs, make your next perpendicular cut. repeat until you run out of log.
That is an ingenious invention. But we aren't doing finish carpentry. And I prefer my firewood to be less uniform. You need large, heavy pieces at night before you go to bed to keep the fire going all night. Then in the morning, you need small, light pieces to get it hot again quickly. My pile has everything from small kindling to heavy logs. While I appreciate the care put into a perfect firewood pile, measuring each piece seems a little too much like wasting time.
I have a small stove that only accepts 16” logs. I don’t know about you, but my eyes struggle to tell the difference between 16 & 18 inches. Though I didn’t do this hack, it’s pretty cool.
Nobody I know uses a "cheater stick" or tape measure for firewood. Most of us are not that OCD
Really? I know someone who uses their own style of cheater stick, works well, no bending required!
My husband set up a sturdy table & rigged the chainsaw as a dropsaw. We had two wheelbarrows, one positioned at the end of the table for the wood to drop into. When that one was full, I swapped it out with the empty one & stacked the wood. By the time I stacked the wood, the next wheelbarrow was full. Fabulous system, really streamlined ... filled a massive woodshed in one afternoon. Eliminated 90% of the bending.
Standard length is 16". Your bar is also likely 16". If it's longer, make a sharpie mark on the bar at 16" and use the bar to measure out the next cut. Why make it difficult?
I run a 18 inch bar myself it’s very easy to mark firewood put the dogs to the end of the log see where the tip of the saw is cut their
I have a 32" bar I have a permanent maker line on my bar at 18" for the same reason.
Too easy! Too easy! no special gadgets no wasting time with inventions that are just going to get caught in the bar.
I just use my 16" bar to measure my 16" firewood pieces
A serious firewood cutter doesn't worry how his wood pile looks - I been cutting wood for over 50 years and just estimate where I need to cut in order to get the length of wood I want - it may be a little shorter than the length that the stove can take but so what
i turn my saw paralell to the log, if i have a 20" bar and want 18" i just eyeball a cuppel of inches back and cut, i'm not marking and going back to much work
I've been doing this for years.....by sight. Every piece has ALWAYS fit into whatever I've put it into.
My husband can't stop laughing!! Just eyeball it!!! Who's got that kind of time?
Not a bad idea but allot of ppl don’t get ocd about their wood stacks
I'm loving you all are posting daily again. It's a bright spot in my day
Does anyone use a mark on the saw (at desired size), hold the saw near the log to visually mark your spot and cut. Been doing it for years.
I guess I'm blessed or I've cut so much firewood that I just eyeball it and am pretty accurate.
Exactly
Hmmmmmm? I just put a mark with a permanent marker 16” from the tip of the bar. It just takes a quick spin of the saw for a fairly accurate measurement each time. I usually get them within an inch either way and that is close enough for me.
With my luck the chain would grab that contraption and launch it back into my man bits!
Jeff Smith I’ve done this for a long while. Have a few different marks for different customers. Always worked for me. Just gotta touch up
You make stuff to complicated mark your bar at 16 inches or whatever you cut your wood at paint a mark and use your bar as a ruler
That's what I always did, but I didn't mark it, I just measured the bar with a tape measure and made a mental note of where the 14, 16, 18, and 20 inch lengths were in relation to writing on the side of the bar. After seeing this I can understand why someone might not want to do that though, because it was more work to bend over more and throw the chainsaw on the log sideways then pick it back up again. The one major advantage it had is that you don't have to mark it then come back and finish the cuts, but you just cut one off, then measure from the side of the bar, and then cut the next one all the way through. Each time measuring from the fresh cut end. Another thing that this made me think of, is that it might work well if you made one of these cheater bars that used a c-clamp that went around the end of the bar. This would have the advantage of being a guard against kickbacks if you were to accidentally hit the end of your bar on a log it would hit the c-clamp instead of the chain. It would also be more firmly attached than the magnet and you could cut all the way through the log, as long as there were no other rocks or debris on the other side of the log, and your bar was long enough.
If I can't fix the gadget in the field, I tend to leave it behind. That also solves my China - Japan - Brazil - FarmaTech - HoltzForma - Echo - Husqvarna - Stihl (et al.) chainsaw debate
Never, just eyeball it, you lack confidence in your own ability.
You can't be serious? just measure from the tip of the bar down the bar and make a mark on the saw at the length you want to cut, turn the saw to the side look then cut. Seriously it's that easy.
What?..... A chainsaw hack that didn't come from Wranglerstar. My world has just been turned upside down. I don't think I can handle this.
Nope, but he click baited you like Wranglestar...Sorry guys, the click bait is getting old...and that "trick" is older than dirt...
Not a bad idea... I use the length of my bar as my guide as an inch or two doesn’t make any difference in my woodpile or stove.
I was going to recommend this as well. Seems like a no brainer to me.
Yup 👍🧠🧠🧠
I really can’t believe I watched this!
When your a logger with OCD.
Just make a mark on the saw bar and turn the saw. Eventually you'll learn to measure by eye. If you worry about making your wood pile perfectly neat, you should talk to someone about your obsessive behavior.
Ditto here. I learned the trick of using my bar or bar & saw with top-handle saws as my reference or "stick" when cutting firewood years ago & it always works great.
My Lopi takes nice & long 22" logs too 👍🏼
When you have no idea what you’re doing sometimes you spend time focusing on things that are not important
@@blakestone1432 What I was thinking ! what is the deal with perfectly sized firewood ? Its fuel, not building materials ! OCD.....
My chainsaw has a 16 bar . I just turn saw in the direction of travel, then pick a point on the log near the end of the bar. mark it from dogs to tip, rinse and repeat. do it a few time and you can judge pretty close to fit the stove. turn the saw ,mark turn the saw mark rinse repeat.
And you never leave it at home if you are cutting firewood in the woods LOL
This was painful. Use a 18” bar and just quick turn your saw before you cut and eyeball it.
It’s firewood 🙄
I suppose lack of experience will be a problem, the rest of us measure in our heads 👍
Use the chainsaw bar to measure:)
That's how I have always done it nothing to lose and its always there
It works but still won't be quite as accurate as this. But at what point does it not matter to be 1/4 inch off?
@@paul3502
Me too
I don’t want to sound elitist, but eyeballing is the way to go, you need a reference (mark on chain bar or something) to get you going, and then you just keep at it. The trick is to mark out the whole log first with the saw, then make your cuts, if you just keep chopping off the end of the log your length will be all over the shop, the human eye is great at getting two or more things equal length, but eyeing out a specific distance without anything to compare it to is near impossible.
I've never known anyone that needed their fire wood cut that accurately. Its not finish carpentry.
60 seconds of information presented in 12 minutes
use your eyes like everyone else or the bar on the chainsaw
Yep haha
I've never known any other way, we put a sharpie or paint pen line on the bar or side cover to mark the length we want turn the saw sideways see where it lines up and cut there no extra tools not likely to wear off always with you why is this method so rare?
Put a big fender washer on the end to hook into the cut.
This is funny to me. I cut and stack four chords of wood for my stove every year. I didn't know I was supposed to measure the wood.
If you cant estimate 18" you haven't cut enough wood, get back out there and keep practicing!😂
I know a guy that says he doesn't need to measure his cuts, we measured his rounds one day and no two were the same length. This explains why his stacks always look like a blind man made them.... no offence to blind men, I'm half blind myself. It seems like you have two types of wood hookers, the people that don't think they need to measure and split consistantly and the people who do it right.
Guess I must be a spatially aware cowboy. I don't use anything. Also, if you know how long your bar is, you can turn the chainsaw slightly to help you eyeball your cuts. Rough guide if you want to learn cowboy method.
My wood burner takes 20 inches. I measure 20 in on my saw from the tip of the bar, to the side of my saw and make a sharpie line, get the cutoff wheel and make a small cut (scratch) in the plastic of the saw on the line (husky orange, plastic side) , then fill it with sharpie black and done. I put the saw tip at the cut end, eyeball by black mark and the tree and cut there. No other tools needed. Move down on the tree, cut there etc. I've done it this way for 30 years. The less stuff the better.
I measure from the end of my bar back, scribe and paint a line. Hold the end of the bar on the end of the log, look at the line/log, then move the saw to the spot where the line was and cut. Kind of simple.
I had no idea people wasted that much time measuring firewood. I think I did that the first time I ever bucked a firewood log... I've eyeballed it literally every time since then and every cord stacks and burns just the same.
I would call it a Binford 6100 chainsaw meauring device.........
Yes replacing my Binford 6000 "eyeball." Just kidding. Its probaly a clever device for a home owner weekend garden warrior.
I have always just eyeballed it. But then I grew up cutting firewood. I never worried about how it looked. I just made sure it did not fall over.
Your using a 18 inch bar dude. Just use it as your measuring stick.
Duhh right?
A $4.99 alternative is a Telescoping Magnetic Pickup Tool from Harbor Freight. Fits in your pocket and can handle any size.
A $1.00 piece of yellow keel has worked for a century at least. Run down your log, and make a yellow mark ever 18" if that is your desired cut. It weighs about 2 oz fits in your shirt pocket and is not cumbersome. When bucking in the old days (early 70's) that is what we used if we wanted an exact cut. I still use it with my Spencer retractable tape when cutting fire wood. zip down, make my marks and feet to cutting. Of course, I am using a 32" bar because I don't like to bend over to cut.
Seriously? If you can't do it by eye you shouldn't be allowed to use a chainsaw
Congrats. You just solved a problem that never existed. - Ever!
Instead of pvc, I use a piece of thin threaded rod on a magnet. It's gotta be a lot lighter than what you have there.
I also put a large fender washer on the end opposite the magnet. It sets into the last groove, helping you lock into position before marking quickly & easily.
I cut all my firewood at 16 inches, and just happens the bar on my saw is 16 inches long, so I use my chainsaw bar to measure with ...can move very quickly down the log that way....
I just use the bar on saw
Great minds think alike! I did this several years ago but used the "springy" door stops to fasten to the magnet and pulled off the rubber tip. Then I inserted a 1/4" dowel down the hole in the spring and marked the distance from the chain for my saw lengths. It is attached with the magnet close to the engine which allows me to cut through the log. The spring has some "give" so that it does not perform like a lever on the bar. Works great!
I give you credit for re-sharing a great idea. I've just eye balled my cuts and never liked the un even stack. This jig is great for me. Now let me pass along a Modification that may help. Drill holes at 15, 16, 17, 18... etc. My stove would hold 18 but I like 15". My friend has a smaller stove so I'll cut his wood at 14". Drilling holes and inserting a nail helps.
Dude seriously. That did not need to be 13 minutes.
I cut 16" because it stacks on pallets in 3 rows deep but 4 ft. wide, which fits perfect. I measure With a Measuring tape, marking every 16" that is already marked for you with a red square on the tape measure.
I got a better idea, just drill a 1/4" hole through the bar all the way at the base where the bucking grabber hooks are and bolt an 18" length of 1/4" all thread rod through the hole. Make the hole in the bar all the way back so its right next to the chainsaw body and so the all thread rod goes through one of the bucking grabber slots so you're not losing 1/4" of cutting length. Use a wing nut so you can quickly remove the marker rod after cutting session is finished. This setup will allow you to just cut normal and all the way through the log without the marker being in the way. You can also put marker nuts anywhere along the all thread rod to have additional marking points of reference to cut different lengths of wood.
This guy has to be a CITY KID that has gone to the country
18 inches and an 18in bar
Eye ball close enough.
A very simple idea - Since you are using a visor as you should. Put your visor on and after marking the proper distance one time put two scrathes or marks on your visor and then you should always have that distance in front of you when you cut. Like a heads up display.
It's not really a bad trick, but as an old wood butcher, I've always just put the kicks on my last cut and pivot the bar up by the tip and that's your 18 inches.
Never measured my firewood, eyeball is the way to do it.
At the risk of being humiliated ... is there any reason you couldn't bolt it THROUGH the bar ... there is already a hole there.
I’ve cut wood for 50 yrs & have always used 2 chainsaws for cutting. One a 14” & a 20”. I just use the bar to measure with. Have never had issues using this old time method. 👍👍🇺🇸🇺🇸🍺🍺🦅🦅
I don't know anything about chainsaws but my husband is a logger from way back. I just love seeing you again, we've enjoyed all your videos for quite some time!
and if you had an 18 inch bar...... just use your bar
i use a laser rangefinder especially calibrated for short distances, i have several alarm sets for different distances. its solar powered and has internal batteries and night vision.
@Jimmy Tate,
High tech firewood cutter. :)
This is a great idea. I always eyeball it too but it can vary by an inch or two. With this thing it doesn't take long and after a while it will train your eye to always cut exactly (in my case 16") the same length. I like precision. The magnet makes it easy, fast and convenient too. Great!
A tape measure and side walk chalk works very well too!
The only thing more exhausting than moving the cheater stick, is listening to blah, blah, blah, waiting for you to get to the point!
Great idea. I just eyeball it aiming for 20"
Accuracy comes with practice but most logs end up 19" to 21" which is close enough for me.
Heavy duty zip tie secured on handle is lighter and less bulky for a measurement tool.
I use the bar of my saw to measure and then make a mark since its 18 inches and it hasn't failed me much yet.
Nice! Neat! All the same length. Sort next on thickness of the log. And by color of the wood. Date timestamp on the side. Did i mention i have OCD?
I just made a mark on my saw blade
The back-saving device I need is one to throw the cut logs into my wheelbarrow when I'm done.
Dude, everyone knows stihl has solved that problem. from the handle to the start of the bar is a built in measure. Sigh
I didn't know this, so I guess "everyone" doesn't know. Glad it has been pointed out.
@@CatherineSTodd , oh i thought it was common knowledge. my bad.
You got way too much time
Fun game, do a shot every time he says “ cheater stick”. Here’s a hack, use a crayon and a “ cheater stick”. Opps, time for a shot!
Uhh that's why there are 18 and 16 inch bar lengths which is the size length most wood stoves accept
I cut 18" logs with a 16" bar, I just marked the side cover with a sharpie and use the saw as a cheater stick. no parts to break or loose and it cost $0.00
Use 18 inch bar use as measuring tool been doing this for like 30 years......
Grandpa always had a stick with a nail in it at the desired length to cut the wood. We would hold the end of the stick in one hand at the start of the log then with the other hand holding on the stick and adding pressure to the nail end of the stick pushing down and swinging back and forth would leave a mark. He would then hand the stick to us grand kids to repeat the process marking the rest of the log. He would then follow with the chainsaw. Fun memories
📹 The grandchildren can also operate the video camera when needed. I have a tendency to be safety conscious (ie. quick repetitive glances) & be productive (sudden movements to the next work aspect), which makes for terrible Go-Pro helmet videos.
'Coz the nail is thin & the chainsaw cuts a kurf, there is more chance that the firewood won't be oversized. (Even so it's best to concentrate on making straight cuts.)
When I started out cutting logs about 2 years ago, I thought the hole at the end of the bar was made for this application. So I got some treaded bar and 2 nuts, pushed it through the hole cut to length and then marked everything. You could cut the log and it wouldn't fall off like yours did.
Made a mistake one day after about 2 months of use and a log bent it, I wasn't going back to fix it so I did it by eye and I was pretty accurate. Give or take a half inch, it doesn't matter.
Very neat idea it seems to work well. I’ve never measured wood for the stove, just an eyeball and cut. Depending on the size of your bar, you can simply set your saw on top of the log facing towards the end of the log and touch the tip into the log to nibble a mark at your next cutting point.
Enjoyed the video. I just use my 16 inch bar to measure the cuts. Nice to see you more relaxed in your most recent videos.
I have always used a 18 inch bar.( 40 yrs). I just use the bar.. my stove It could fit up to 22 inch log.
Great idea. You got me thinking about how to modify the length of the gage to accommodate different cut lengths. Make the primary length of PVC with magnet, say 12" (whatever fits the tool box) which would include the coupling. Then, just have short pieces which when placed in the coupling equal 16", 18", etc. Those short extensions would free up space in the kit and eliminate the multiple full length pieces. Just a thought
Ed Zdon
Just happened to catch this video. Excellent idea and you're so humbled by whoever came up with this idea! Great job!!! Thanks
i cut a metal coat hanger and straightened it out and duct taped it to the handle then bent it to length .so each time i made a cut i just moved down till it hung on end i just cut and it was never in the way and always there