Good explanations, Jelle. One thing that makes air layering much easier is ditching the plastic wrap for plastic spheres made for this purpose (search for "reusable plant rooting devices.") Plastic food tubs work almost as well by cutting notches through both sides for the trunk to path through, secure with tape, fill with sphagnum, and snap the lid on. I get rooting success with either sphagnum moss or bonsai soil. Also, in warm sunny places, air layers can fail due to drying out. To prevent this, first make a small hole in the top so water can be added when needed with a syringe, or even better, by inserting an irrigation emitter, and then cover the whole thing with aluminum foil. With these techniques, I get nearly "ready-made" juniper bonsai from fairly large branches styled before they are air-layered. Sorry for the long comment, but I thought people might find these tips useful.
Hi John, thank you for the tips. Later this year I will do a deshojo restyle video, on which I layer using an old pot filled with regular substrate which I water every time I water my trees. I prefer that over plastic wrap too. Sometimes it is however impractical. In this case I wanted to show the basic setup.
I have had them newrly dry out at the end of the layering. Once they start rooting the roots can quickly drain the water from the layer site. making sure ot is well watered I find important.
That's true, especially when you patiently wait for lots of roots to form. Drying out is also an issue here due to our annual 266 sunny days, low humidity, and 230mm of rain that comes only in the winter months.
@@GrowingBonsai i air layered a lot of integra salix and found it easiest to use clear plastic cups (rubbery ones as they don't break). I'd just staple the sides of the cup when i put it on and make sure the cup leans on another branch so it doesn't move. I'd just use any substrate I have at hand. I'd water it irregularly. 100% success but salix is stupid easy, it even rooted when i just wrapped it with clear sticky foil for bugs. This year I'm gonna try japanese maples for the first time
This video is the first one I have watched on this topic of why air layering works on a hormonal basis. it always seemed counterintuitive to remove the cambium layer and interesting that the roots generate from the bark. Very cool!
Genau so hab ich vor 5 Wochen den unterarmdicken Stamm aus meinen Ahorn, vorne im Beet, neben dem Arakawa, behandelt. In 2 bis 3 Wochen schaue ich mir das Ergebnis an.
Great video and very good explanation! I have successfully airlayerd my bougainvillea, wisteria Last year and my dawn redwood callused over the first two times, this year I got it right. It’s real satisfying when you got it! Keep growing 👍👏👍
keep in mind that not all cultivars root easily. Some take in what feels like days. Others need months! I jave not found clear info on whoch do and which dont unfortunately
Interesting. I watched another You Tubers video on Bonsai and he instructed not to damage the Cadmium, which in very difficult. I am doing one from instructions in a kit, I will do one with your method and expect better success. I have an old Dogwood, maybe 80 years old that I want to propagate as a tree and for starting Bonsai. Thank you for your videos.
@@FSCHW That the thing.. Water and nurrients come in theough the wood. Sugars from the foliage move theough the bark which are stopped at the cut area. The cambium is the regenerative tissue, which causes so called bridging if left in place..
Thank you so much for dropping this comment. It is feedback like this that make me feel it is worth the effort to make these videos. (Some of them have 20 hours of work in them). Great to hear!
@@williamf7495 Not well at all sadly. There was swelling but no roots appeared. After many months the branch died and I had to take it off the tree. Might try again next spring with a different unwanted branch.
@ Yes, twice. Seems to be getting going (bulging on the outer cut) but never developed the roots. Might have been the packing medium I used (didn’t purchase moss) so will try different next time.
Ive been doin airlayers for a while with both pine & broadleaf,so what i done so that my roots remained horizontal was using a round disc of plastic or bottom of a plastic pot & attach it under were the roots will form so that my roots will remain horizontal & better radial roots!
Hey Star Bell, thank you for your input. I know the technique, but I have never really seen the need for it. How big of a difference is it making for you?
@@GrowingBonsai it shortens the time in which you still have to develope nebari (root flare) ,it works & ive seen on some other sights of others using this method.But each 2 there own im just giving you other ideas whivh may help you!!!Cheers mate!!!!
Thanks very much for the clear explanation. I had a go last, late summer to do multiple layerings of Fagus Incisa [Feathered or cutleaf beech] Its quite a rare tree but suitable for the larger bonsai, we think. While the ground layerings have taken, my first attempts of air layerings dont seem to have taken yet....I am waiting for the first buds to break for my next attempt. We are in north Lancashire UK so that will be mid April . I have tried sphagnum moss with rooting compound powder and shallot ! ... I now have gel ready for the next attempt!
Clear and concise explanation. Brilliant. Continuing to fine-tune my techniques through these demonstrations. (The devil is in the detail and many of those details were covered here). Many thanks.
Easier demonstrated than done. I like your explanation about the need for oxygen contact to the rooting area. Presently I am using partially rotted wet straw on a 2 inch thck Mulberry tree. . I will try another one using foam rubber. And I will get me some that saguaro peat moss From other channel experiments root grow better in light than dark and I have made some airlayers using clear plastic and clear packaging tape . Experienced successful airlayers practioners typically wrap aluminum foil around the plastic airlayer envelope . I'm experienced but not successful at airlayer So I can't follow your method to the letter . . Thanks for showing us your method. I learn from you and others
Hi Robert, that sounds interesting. Are you recording your experiments? Which site showed better layering results in the light than in the dark? Would be keen to look at that!
@@GrowingBonsai here is the channel . He does softwood cuttings . I do mostly hard wood cutting and airlayering as well as other layering but like your presentation he empathize the importance of oxygen in the roots which many youtube presenter don't mention . ua-cam.com/video/e5NNJs4FCTw/v-deo.html
@@robertbrawley5048 OK, found this video. I think what he is showing is that providing light to the cutting is causing better growth, not that light to the rooting area causes the extra growth?
@@GrowingBonsai ua-cam.com/video/e5NNJs4FCTw/v-deo.html At the 5:30 his narration says more roots and longer roots for the roots development . What I saw the development of the roots look about the same.
So, take off the outer and inner bark and the cambium layers. That's clear. Short of making the tree structurally compromised, is it possible to remove too much? Can you take too much sapwood?
My expirience is to cut the Ring below the Node makes more sense than to cut in area of internode...because roots will grow directly from the Node where the active zone lays 👍👍👍
@@BONSAIenCORTO Thanks for your advice. I guess you are in a warm and dry environment? Up here keeping the substrate wet is not a problem. Akadama breaks down to mush in winter so I have stoped using it. Every try have calloused over totally before summer, so I guess I need to scrape more/deeper.
Thanks for another helpful video Jelle. Can I ask for a link or a name for the knife you used in the video please? Most of the sliding knives I can find here in the UK only have smaller 9mm blades and it's not so easy to cut around branches with these as they flex so much.
have a look for carpet knife, i think they are called. Mine has replacable blades and the grip is just that, a grib. Mine is a nobrand knife. Stanley makes these too, but the grip is much bigger.
Enjoy your videos. I’m trying to air layer lions head maple. I did it mid May and used pro mix as grow medium plus covered with root tone. So far nothing. Can I start over in same cuts. Thank you.
Hey Jelle, great video, really like your channel and the clear concise style of your videos, keep up the great work. For the first time in several years I’ve had a bunch of my air layered branches simply die, I propagate a lot and have never seen this? The air layer point turned black with-in several days and the branches died - any insight from a fellow propagation guy?
to be honest.. Not really! Did you leave part of the debarked area uncovered? Maybe that dried out killing it? Maybe cut too deep in the wood? Just throwing some thoughts out tbh..
Hi, Jelle! I recently started two air layers on two different Japanese maples. Where should I put the bonsai’s whilst the air layers are still on the parent bonsai? I’m trying to “play it safe” and have the bonsais in a shady area. How much sun exposure should I give them? I think I heard you say “full sun” in the video. Is that true? Give ‘em full sun? I let them get a few hours (2-3) of direct morning sunlight and then full shade the rest of the day. Can they handle more sun? Any and all info would be greatly welcomed and appreciated! Take care, Jelle, and happy bonsai!
I do keep mine in full sun. To the extend that they are on a bench that somewhere mid-afternoon drops in the shade as the sub moves over the edge of a shed.
My attempt at air layering a JM after 8 weeks has no roots and a big ball at the edge. It looks like it is healing not producing roots. What did i do wrong? What do I do now? Let it heal and start over, try again further down on the same branch, wrap it for more time, or clip it and plant?
Nice explanation. When is a good time to harvest it. I have a maple airlayer with roots now. We are in late summer. Is it advisable to remove it now or will I wait for spring? I am in Australia.
I'm only two minutes in but I'm impatient, can I use coco coir instead of sphagnum? PS I'm finding that my impatience is such a gift when I'm working with Bonsai😆
It is. It seems to have desinfectant properties and stops fungi from growing. As well as having a very high water retention. I do not really like the stuff :)
I’m thinking about trying this with my lucky bamboo. I don’t intend to cut anything off though. I just want to help the main plaint grow more and produce more shoots. Do you know if this will work
Hoi ik stel mijn vraag even in het Nederlands en en Engels. Je mag in het Engels beantwoorden hoor Zeer goede en duidelijke video. Echter een vraag, maakt het uit waar je begint met het verwijderen van de bast. Ik bedoel daarmee beginnen onder een uitschietende tak en zo ja hoeveel cm onder die tak moet je dan beginnen? Very good and clear video. One question though, does it matter where you start removing the bark. By that I mean start under a sprouting branch and if so how many cm below that branch should you start?
As far as I know, it does not matter. I pick a spot that fits with the shape for the envisioned tree (also, the angle at which you cut the bark = angle of planting foreseen!)
Yes. The basic "Set and forget" type air layering style of clonal propogation like shown here works well with azaleas. They tend to root readily and are quite forgiving so even beginners tend to have good success with them provided they take abit of care and follow all the steps. And give it time to develop enough roots for the size of clone you'll be cutting off and not cut too soon or wrong time of year. Then you should be fine and it's a useful technique for them. Spaghnum moss is also an ideal medium for it and I'd be cautious with using other kinds with azaleas, or better yet just dont. :))
Should it be done right after leaves pop out in spring? Or some weeks later? You kind of gave an answer: "early to late spring" - so I guess 2-4 weeks after leaves come out.
I have tried before leaves come out, and then it just takes longer. So yeah, once you have the first leaves on, untill sometime in the middle of summer is best.
How much do the leafs need to mature before air layering? Or can you make air layers as soon as the buds open? I'm eager to start air layering but the buds have just started to open here in southern Finland!
I normally wait for the foliage to extend a bit, like you can see in the video. It is said that you can layer before budbreak. I have tried once and did not notice the roots forming earlier, so in fact, the layering took longer and I not am back to when the plant is really growing. I just did my airlayers over the last 2 weeks, will put the last one for this year on today. I guess Finland by now should have pushing maples?
@@GrowingBonsai Thank you. Yes most species went to full leaf during this week, maples included. There are still some trees with buds just starting to open. I guess I'll be starting practising my first air layers this weekend with some unimportant trees that are fully in leaf.
Hello Jelle, very nice video ! I made some air-layers on my japanese maples in late july. Is it safe to remove them (if they have rooted) during september/october or is it too late? (I live in the North of France). Thanks !
Hey Snejinka, you are so goign to like my video next week: "How to plant an airlayer so it survives"! As for your exact question: I ant to plant things not later than 6-8 weeks before the first frost date. In my opionion that leaves enough time to get settled in the pot!
I usually think 6-8 weeks for the layer, and then 4-6 weeks post-separation to get established = first expected frost. So ~3 months till frost is the very latest I would start, but earlier is better as the tree has more time to get settled in.
Good question. The main different is that the tree keeps supplying the airlayered part with water and nutrients during the layering process. So for weeks to months the part is well taken care off. Once you cut it off as a cutting, thats it. The part needs to survive on what is in there.
Certain Japanese maples seem to be easier than others. I have a pine bark that will throw off roots if you sneeze on it and a mikawa yatsubusa that simply won’t take at all 😔
Good explanations, Jelle. One thing that makes air layering much easier is ditching the plastic wrap for plastic spheres made for this purpose (search for "reusable plant rooting devices.") Plastic food tubs work almost as well by cutting notches through both sides for the trunk to path through, secure with tape, fill with sphagnum, and snap the lid on. I get rooting success with either sphagnum moss or bonsai soil. Also, in warm sunny places, air layers can fail due to drying out. To prevent this, first make a small hole in the top so water can be added when needed with a syringe, or even better, by inserting an irrigation emitter, and then cover the whole thing with aluminum foil. With these techniques, I get nearly "ready-made" juniper bonsai from fairly large branches styled before they are air-layered. Sorry for the long comment, but I thought people might find these tips useful.
Hi John, thank you for the tips. Later this year I will do a deshojo restyle video, on which I layer using an old pot filled with regular substrate which I water every time I water my trees. I prefer that over plastic wrap too. Sometimes it is however impractical. In this case I wanted to show the basic setup.
I have had them newrly dry out at the end of the layering. Once they start rooting the roots can quickly drain the water from the layer site. making sure ot is well watered I find important.
That's true, especially when you patiently wait for lots of roots to form. Drying out is also an issue here due to our annual 266 sunny days, low humidity, and 230mm of rain that comes only in the winter months.
@@GrowingBonsai i air layered a lot of integra salix and found it easiest to use clear plastic cups (rubbery ones as they don't break). I'd just staple the sides of the cup when i put it on and make sure the cup leans on another branch so it doesn't move. I'd just use any substrate I have at hand. I'd water it irregularly. 100% success but salix is stupid easy, it even rooted when i just wrapped it with clear sticky foil for bugs. This year I'm gonna try japanese maples for the first time
Temu for those domes
Another easy to understand and informative video Jelle. Great stuff!
thank you! Great to hear this content is well received!
This video is the first one I have watched on this topic of why air layering works on a hormonal basis. it always seemed counterintuitive to remove the cambium layer and interesting that the roots generate from the bark. Very cool!
Glad it brought you something new!
Excellent presentation, first class, and a good tip tying the bottom of the plastic making a bag out of it for the sphagnum moss. Thankyou
Thank you for your kind words Lufe!
Genau so hab ich vor 5 Wochen den unterarmdicken Stamm aus meinen Ahorn, vorne im Beet, neben dem Arakawa, behandelt. In 2 bis 3 Wochen schaue ich mir das Ergebnis an.
ohw.. In 1 bis 2 wochen komme ich mit eine Sage vorbei!
@@GrowingBonsai dann stehe ich solange Wache
@@theoschmitt3037 haha
Really loving your videos! I like how you explain slow enough for us to understand. ❤
Haha, you misunderstand.. I go slow so I understand 🤪
Great video and very good explanation! I have successfully airlayerd my bougainvillea, wisteria Last year and my dawn redwood callused over the first two times, this year I got it right. It’s real satisfying when you got it! Keep growing 👍👏👍
Hi Wouter, it is nice to see the new roots, isnt it!?
Thanks for sharing. Failed last year. Will try again next year with your tutoring.
keep in mind that not all cultivars root easily. Some take in what feels like days. Others need months! I jave not found clear info on whoch do and which dont unfortunately
Interesting. I watched another You Tubers video on Bonsai and he instructed not to damage the Cadmium, which in very difficult. I am doing one from instructions in a kit, I will do one with your method and expect better success. I have an old Dogwood, maybe 80 years old that I want to propagate as a tree and for starting Bonsai. Thank you for your videos.
Did the person why the cambium should not be damaged? Does not make a lot of sense to me!?🙅
@@GrowingBonsai no, but I assumed it was for continued nourishment beyond the removed bark.
@@FSCHW That the thing.. Water and nurrients come in theough the wood. Sugars from the foliage move theough the bark which are stopped at the cut area. The cambium is the regenerative tissue, which causes so called bridging if left in place..
You really covered all the bases. Thank you so much, i feel much more comfortable doing this for the first time🌱
I'm so glad! Love to hear how this works out for you!
Excellent! I will follow this meticulously this coming spring. Thank you very much.
Wonderful! Good luck! :)
I will try to take a few air layer cuttings from my mature smoke tree next spring
Great! Good luck there
@ thank you Jelle I feel more confident now I’ve seen your excellent video
Thanks Jelle, this video answers a question I asked in another one of your videos.
Happy to help!
To the point, informative and instructive, love this video!
Great explanations no nonsense enjoyed your vlog very much. Many thanks for your hard work and time in making such a great video.
Thank you so much for dropping this comment. It is feedback like this that make me feel it is worth the effort to make these videos. (Some of them have 20 hours of work in them). Great to hear!
Really enjoyed that video Jelle well explained and the quick change of clothes was quicker than superman 🦸♂️ lol 😆...
yes, sorry.. Sometimes you are editing and realize you miss stuff... I do not plan out the content well enough!
Great Video! I am currently at sub 50% success rate with air layering. This video will encourage me to keep working on it!
ohw, that is not too great! Hope your stats improve!
Air layering on my Bloodgood acer started today. Fingers crossed!! 🤞
Thanks for the advice and guidance!
I’m starting mine today, too.
@@mebbaker42 how did it go
@@williamf7495 Not well at all sadly. There was swelling but no roots appeared. After many months the branch died and I had to take it off the tree. Might try again next spring with a different unwanted branch.
@@mebbaker42 Aww no. Did you use any rooting hormone?
@ Yes, twice. Seems to be getting going (bulging on the outer cut) but never developed the roots. Might have been the packing medium I used (didn’t purchase moss) so will try different next time.
very educating and great presentation, thank you
Glad to hear it! Now of to the garden and try it yourself?!
Best explanation on Air Layering!
Do you have a video of when the roots have emerged and how you cut and plant the branch? That would be helpful. Thanks
At your service ua-cam.com/video/8xlNdEq_r6g/v-deo.html
Great job Jelle!
hey Jay, good to see you here. I doubt you needed any help there though :)
@@GrowingBonsai We can all only get better with practice! 😀
Excellent information to airlayering❤
Glad you think so!
Ive been doin airlayers for a while with both pine & broadleaf,so what i done so that my roots remained horizontal was using a round disc of plastic or bottom of a plastic pot & attach it under were the roots will form so that my roots will remain horizontal & better radial roots!
Hey Star Bell, thank you for your input. I know the technique, but I have never really seen the need for it. How big of a difference is it making for you?
@@GrowingBonsai it shortens the time in which you still have to develope nebari (root flare) ,it works & ive seen on some other sights of others using this method.But each 2 there own im just giving you other ideas whivh may help you!!!Cheers mate!!!!
Thanks very much for the clear explanation. I had a go last, late summer to do multiple layerings of Fagus Incisa [Feathered or cutleaf beech] Its quite a rare tree but suitable for the larger bonsai, we think. While the ground layerings have taken, my first attempts of air layerings dont seem to have taken yet....I am waiting for the first buds to break for my next attempt. We are in north Lancashire UK so that will be mid April . I have tried sphagnum moss with rooting compound powder and shallot ! ... I now have gel ready for the next attempt!
fingers crossed!
Clear and concise explanation. Brilliant. Continuing to fine-tune my techniques through these demonstrations. (The devil is in the detail and many of those details were covered here). Many thanks.
Ohhww.. Thank you! Which details were particularly interesting for you ?
Easier demonstrated than done.
I like your explanation about the need for oxygen contact to the rooting area.
Presently I am using partially rotted wet straw on a 2 inch thck Mulberry tree. . I will try another one using foam rubber. And I will get me some that saguaro peat moss
From other channel experiments root grow better in light than dark and I have made some airlayers using clear plastic and clear packaging tape . Experienced successful airlayers practioners typically wrap aluminum foil around the plastic airlayer envelope . I'm experienced but not successful at airlayer So I can't follow your method to the letter . .
Thanks for showing us your method. I learn from you and others
Hi Robert, that sounds interesting. Are you recording your experiments?
Which site showed better layering results in the light than in the dark? Would be keen to look at that!
@@GrowingBonsai I will get it for you. It's soft wood cutting hold on. TECHPLANT channel
@@GrowingBonsai here is the channel . He does softwood cuttings . I do mostly hard wood cutting and airlayering as well as other layering but like your presentation he empathize the importance of oxygen in the roots which many youtube presenter don't mention .
ua-cam.com/video/e5NNJs4FCTw/v-deo.html
@@robertbrawley5048 OK, found this video. I think what he is showing is that providing light to the cutting is causing better growth, not that light to the rooting area causes the extra growth?
@@GrowingBonsai
ua-cam.com/video/e5NNJs4FCTw/v-deo.html
At the 5:30 his narration says more roots and longer roots for the roots development . What I saw the development of the roots look about the same.
I have done exactly as you did, I had no luck , around 6 times
Great information thank you
Glad it was helpful! Hope you are also succesfull layering!
Thank you for the excellent video.
Glad you liked it!
Can you pls explain more about that soil you are using what do I need to ask for at stores ?
did you see my bonsai substrte video?
Thank for sharing brother🙏
very welcome! Hope it helps you!
Edit: you answered at the end! Thanks fot the video - What time of year should this be done in? Or what times should be avoided?
Normally you do this once the trees have started to grow in spring. After mid-summer you are too late.
Σας ευχαριστώ πολύ!!
Very well explained 👍👍
Thank you 🙂
Thanks for sharing.
very welcome!
thanks for your videos. Is there a season or time to air layer trees or type of species to do so. please advise. Pete Young
Normally in spring this is done.
So, take off the outer and inner bark and the cambium layers. That's clear. Short of making the tree structurally compromised, is it possible to remove too much? Can you take too much sapwood?
yes. You should not remove the wood, only the bark and cambium
@@GrowingBonsai Thanks
My expirience is to cut the Ring below the Node makes more sense than to cut in area of internode...because roots will grow directly from the Node where the active zone lays 👍👍👍
Hi, this is really not my experience. I get roots to grow out of the bark just above the cut. Node or not.
@@GrowingBonsai
Ok ,it might depend on the species???
I have found this phenomen with Cornus Mas
Thanks for getting on the idea🤘🤘🤘
@@thegreenmanalishiyamadori371 perhaps. I have never tried cornus, so can't really tell. :)
@@GrowingBonsai
I have a piece of a failed Airlayering where it is clear why it failed from the internode...
Great vid Jelle. I do excactly as you but I have never succeded. I am not giving up, one day it will succeed.😀👍
Try a plastic pot and water it normaly. Soil mix 50 % moss, 50 % akadama and wait a year, from spring to spring.
@@BONSAIenCORTO Thanks for your advice. I guess you are in a warm and dry environment? Up here keeping the substrate wet is not a problem. Akadama breaks down to mush in winter so I have stoped using it. Every try have calloused over totally before summer, so I guess I need to scrape more/deeper.
Hello again!! Have you seen Sam’s latest air-layering vid on Nillys Bonsai n Gardening? Genius!! (my word for the day!) ✌️
strange! how wide do you make the cut?
@@GrowingBonsai I make the cut around twice the diameter of the branch/trunk to airlayer.
Thanks for another helpful video Jelle.
Can I ask for a link or a name for the knife you used in the video please? Most of the sliding knives I can find here in the UK only have smaller 9mm blades and it's not so easy to cut around branches with these as they flex so much.
have a look for carpet knife, i think they are called. Mine has replacable blades and the grip is just that, a grib. Mine is a nobrand knife. Stanley makes these too, but the grip is much bigger.
Brilliant, thank you for the help Jelle. Really appreciated.
thanks well explained air-layring
Glad it was helpful!
Enjoy your videos. I’m trying to air layer lions head maple. I did it mid May and used pro mix as grow medium plus covered with root tone. So far nothing. Can I start over in same cuts. Thank you.
Patience is a virtue. If it did not bridge, just let is sit.
Excellent! Thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
Great video! Just a question: What type of Japanese maple did you do the demo on? The one with the beautiful pink/red leaves?
No idea! I picked it up wothout a nametag!
Thanks Jelle, i have seen ppl have succes without cutting the bark. Do you think it takes longer that way..?
Yeah, and not all species root that way
@@GrowingBonsaii cut the cambium layers yesterday to be sure.
Hey Jelle, great video, really like your channel and the clear concise style of your videos, keep up the great work. For the first time in several years I’ve had a bunch of my air layered branches simply die, I propagate a lot and have never seen this? The air layer point turned black with-in several days and the branches died - any insight from a fellow propagation guy?
to be honest.. Not really! Did you leave part of the debarked area uncovered? Maybe that dried out killing it? Maybe cut too deep in the wood? Just throwing some thoughts out tbh..
Can we use the same process to recreate a nebari higher in the tree? What happens to that zone if the air layer doesn't "stick"?
Yes, this is exactly the same. If the layer does not work, often it has callused over. If not callused over, eventually the top will die.
@@GrowingBonsai so if I try to make the nebari higher in the tree I can risk killing it?
Hi, Jelle! I recently started two air layers on two different Japanese maples. Where should I put the bonsai’s whilst the air layers are still on the parent bonsai? I’m trying to “play it safe” and have the bonsais in a shady area. How much sun exposure should I give them? I think I heard you say “full sun” in the video. Is that true? Give ‘em full sun? I let them get a few hours (2-3) of direct morning sunlight and then full shade the rest of the day. Can they handle more sun? Any and all info would be greatly welcomed and appreciated! Take care, Jelle, and happy bonsai!
I do keep mine in full sun. To the extend that they are on a bench that somewhere mid-afternoon drops in the shade as the sub moves over the edge of a shed.
My attempt at air layering a JM after 8 weeks has no roots and a big ball at the edge. It looks like it is healing not producing roots. What did i do wrong? What do I do now? Let it heal and start over, try again further down on the same branch, wrap it for more time, or clip it and plant?
@@drkenweil You didn't cut through the cambium layer henceforth the plants started healing
Take a look at this video. Probably the substrate used was too wet. But some also just airlayer poorly!
ua-cam.com/video/yEE6o8KAihA/v-deo.html
Does the cut site have to be by a node, or can it just be a bare branch?
i think it can be anywhere
Nice explanation. When is a good time to harvest it. I have a maple airlayer with roots now. We are in late summer. Is it advisable to remove it now or will I wait for spring? I am in Australia.
I separate as soon as they have roots. Have you seen the follow-up video on succesfull separation of airlayers?
Is there a certain time frame in which this process should be done based on the weather in your area
Normally you do this in mid-spring, after the first flush of leaves.
I'm only two minutes in but I'm impatient, can I use coco coir instead of sphagnum? PS I'm finding that my impatience is such a gift when I'm working with Bonsai😆
you can try
Very good!
:) Thx
Hi, great video! may I ask what is the name of that red japanese maple you were air alying? thank you!
Hi Mike, to be honest, I am not completely confident. It could be a Seigen, but because they are rare, I doubt whether it really is one.
@@GrowingBonsai thank you. I just think its such a vivid red color. Beautiful tree you have!!
@@mikelu4854 It is gorgeous isn't it!?
I tried mine and used moss from the garden, is spangnom moss differ. ?
It is. It seems to have desinfectant properties and stops fungi from growing. As well as having a very high water retention. I do not really like the stuff :)
I’m thinking about trying this with my lucky bamboo. I don’t intend to cut anything off though. I just want to help the main plaint grow more and produce more shoots. Do you know if this will work
I have no idea. Never heard of lucky bamboo.
Hoi ik stel mijn vraag even in het Nederlands en en Engels. Je mag in het Engels beantwoorden hoor
Zeer goede en duidelijke video. Echter een vraag, maakt het uit waar je begint met het verwijderen van de bast. Ik bedoel daarmee beginnen onder een uitschietende tak en zo ja hoeveel cm onder die tak moet je dan beginnen?
Very good and clear video. One question though, does it matter where you start removing the bark. By that I mean start under a sprouting branch and if so how many cm below that branch should you start?
As far as I know, it does not matter. I pick a spot that fits with the shape for the envisioned tree (also, the angle at which you cut the bark = angle of planting foreseen!)
Hadir nyimak kawan
thx!
I’m an azalea grower. Does this method work for azaleas and other shrubs?
Yes. The basic "Set and forget" type air layering style of clonal propogation like shown here works well with azaleas. They tend to root readily and are quite forgiving so even beginners tend to have good success with them provided they take abit of care and follow all the steps. And give it time to develop enough roots for the size of clone you'll be cutting off and not cut too soon or wrong time of year.
Then you should be fine and it's a useful technique for them.
Spaghnum moss is also an ideal medium for it and I'd be cautious with using other kinds with azaleas, or better yet just dont. :))
I guess I am Shredder said it all!
Should it be done right after leaves pop out in spring? Or some weeks later?
You kind of gave an answer: "early to late spring" - so I guess 2-4 weeks after leaves come out.
I have tried before leaves come out, and then it just takes longer. So yeah, once you have the first leaves on, untill sometime in the middle of summer is best.
@@GrowingBonsai Thank you
Seedling cutting or airlayer, and the one we all hate/dislike and will not use in bonsai the grafted maple
I do not like them either. There spme good examples of maples grafted with bonsai in mind which are less obvious though!
Indonesia bonsai present brother
welcome me friend!
How much do the leafs need to mature before air layering? Or can you make air layers as soon as the buds open? I'm eager to start air layering but the buds have just started to open here in southern Finland!
I normally wait for the foliage to extend a bit, like you can see in the video. It is said that you can layer before budbreak. I have tried once and did not notice the roots forming earlier, so in fact, the layering took longer and I not am back to when the plant is really growing. I just did my airlayers over the last 2 weeks, will put the last one for this year on today. I guess Finland by now should have pushing maples?
@@GrowingBonsai Thank you. Yes most species went to full leaf during this week, maples included. There are still some trees with buds just starting to open. I guess I'll be starting practising my first air layers this weekend with some unimportant trees that are fully in leaf.
@@JaniLaaksonen91 enjoy!
Great video Jelle! 😊 How many cm is the thinnest Japanese maple branch you can airlayer? Thanks
Not sure. Smallest I have done was half a cm.
@@GrowingBonsai super, 🙏
Giving me the inspo to air layer my maple. Thank you
Go for it! Lots of luck!
Jelle, is this Bloodgood maple? Beutiful red color.
Hi JK, it certainly is not bloodgold. That is a lot duller, more red wine color. This is "seigen" or close to it.
@@GrowingBonsai beutiful color tho 👍
Should one use dried or fresh Spagnum moss?
Both would work
@@GrowingBonsai Thank you. This video is super helpful
@@MoebiusUK happy to hear!
Hello Jelle, very nice video ! I made some air-layers on my japanese maples in late july. Is it safe to remove them (if they have rooted) during september/october or is it too late? (I live in the North of France). Thanks !
Hey Snejinka, you are so goign to like my video next week: "How to plant an airlayer so it survives"! As for your exact question: I ant to plant things not later than 6-8 weeks before the first frost date. In my opionion that leaves enough time to get settled in the pot!
@@GrowingBonsai Haha, well I can't wait to watch that video. Thank you very much !
How long will an air layer plant takes to fruit bro
If the parent plant was fruitong already, the next season or year thereafter is realistic to expect flowering
Nice
thank you!
you said you water it but how often please?
I water when I water the tree itself too.
How do you know when to water?
I water when I water the rest of the plant if I use regular substrate for layering.
Jelle, one more question: june/july is ok to start air layering or is too late?
I usually think 6-8 weeks for the layer, and then 4-6 weeks post-separation to get established = first expected frost. So ~3 months till frost is the very latest I would start, but earlier is better as the tree has more time to get settled in.
Thank you
I guess we can also leave the layer connected until spring if we're air-layering late (in my case right now?). Have you done that before?
If air layering works then wouldn’t a cutting in the same spot work? I don’t understand the difference why one would work and the other not.
Good question. The main different is that the tree keeps supplying the airlayered part with water and nutrients during the layering process. So for weeks to months the part is well taken care off. Once you cut it off as a cutting, thats it. The part needs to survive on what is in there.
@@GrowingBonsai thanks for replying I have always wondered about that
I tried air layering once and the plant was infected by the soil in the wound area
:( Too wet?
@GrowingBonsai no but I doubt the soil quality is behind it
❤
:)
Certain Japanese maples seem to be easier than others. I have a pine bark that will throw off roots if you sneeze on it and a mikawa yatsubusa that simply won’t take at all 😔
Agreed! Some species as well as varieties are really unwilling to play this game.
Maybe put the container upside down on the root ball
Hi Devan, interesting thought. What benefit would that have for you?
You could use a plastic bottle instead of the bag
Yes.
This is deshojo
not really :(
whats your opinion on cutting the bark on an angle instead of straight across? Ive read that cutting angular has better results.
Cutting at an agle can help you create a nebari at an angle. I see no reason why the rooting would be better if you cut at an angle?
What season do you do air layering?
@@ug8903 spring after the leaves emerge