I hope the video turned out ok, I spent days dealing with windows issues trying to edit then upload this video, and finally got rid of windows 10, installed linux and set out to try to learn a new video editor, which I know I have a long way to go yet lol. Seems to go much quicker now, the entire process, so hopefully they will get quicker and better with time.
Regarding the two different greases: given how clean the inside was (but not the outside) I'm thinking maybe someone decided to *add* grease inside the motor housing without removing the original grease? That would explain why they are two different colors. It also might be that they did some cleanup in there when they added the grease. If so, perhaps didn't realize they needed to grease the planetary, so it only had what was left of the original grease. I can't think of another explanation. Just found you a few days ago and am watching as time allows; you make great videos and do wonderful work! Just joined your FB group too, the other day :)
Hi Melissa, thank you!! I think you may be right, that makes perfect sense about the grease. I have been finding the newer the kitchenaid, the less grease in the planetary, personally I think it is because they realized it leaked out, less grease less leakage lol. I may be way off, but that was my first thought!
Hi there! I have this K45 Hobart model in the same green. However, mine makes a knocking sound when I turn it on. It works fine, but just has a consistent knock. I know this video is over a year old, but figured I'd ask and see if you had a clue as to why that may be happening, considering you seem to know your way around these quite well. I'd join your facebook group, but I don't have a profile anymore, so I'm asking here. Thank you for your time! And nice job on the restoration! It looks great with the new paint job.
Thanks! Well, it could be that the grease has all hardened, or a flat spot on the fiber worm gear, these are the 2 things that come to mind. Hope this helps!!
@@vintagemixersandmore1666 hey again Rick, so I had only used it once in the past year. I went ahead and turned it on to see if it still made noise. It still did, for about 30 seconds. Then it stopped. I'm not sure if it helped, but the knocking was reduced at higher speeds before I noticed it was gone. Then again, it didn't have anything attached. I don't know if that helps any or is relevant. I just know that this is my second time using it, and contrary to what I previously believed, the knocking was inconsistent in volume and timing (before it stopped altogether). Could it just be a lack of use? Or would that still be the gears or lack of grease? It's just weird that it would stop. Also, I took a look at some of your other videos. I'm sorry you stopped doing repairs and restorations. I hope your health improves and things get better! Thank you for taking the time.
@@KablamX Thanks! Yes it could be from sitting as well, may have been some hardened grease on a spot on a gear that eventually wore through. I guess if its working fine now then you are probably good to go!
@@vintagemixersandmore1666 Hi Rick. Yeah, I've been checking routinely and it seems the sound only went away until I actually put some brownie batter to mix. Then it had consistent noise. I asked a friend and he says I'd need to replace one of the gears, since he believes it has a broken tooth somewhere. So at least I know what the problem is (I think).
@@KablamX Yea I would agree, it is probably the plastic gear inside. They are designed to fail if the machine ever gets jammed up to protect the rest of the machine.
Where would I purchase the replacement gasket and baffle? I have looked online and only found used ones on eBay and the new ones don't match. I have the Hobart k45. Not sure the year only wanting to clean it up due to build up and needing to sterilize it.
I have a pre-solid state K45 likely from the 1970's. I put in a new gasket and new grease and calibrated the speed. It spun at 60 RPM on speed level 1 but after I tried to set speed level 6 with the bottom screw, level 1 speed came out of calibration and now the mixer won't spin slower than 80 RPM no matter how I set it. Not sure if this is related but there is some light but visible arching/sparks coming from behind the copper "'T" plate when the mixer is running on slower settings (1-4). Any idea what could be wrong?
I inherited my grandmother's k45 after her passing several years ago. I took it because I remembered helping her baking when I was a child and had fond memories of this machine. I noticed that the brushes are almost worn out, this machine was used regularly and the white paint has a yellowush greasy coating which is actually cleaning up nice. Are the brushes the same as the k45solid state and newer models? I also need to replace the power cord since it is extremely soft and wires are starting to show through. It does run though so I dont need to worry about the capacitor etc.
Oh, nice! Im glad to hear it cleaned up so well, sometimes they can really get stained. These machines, any brand really, definitely hold a lot of memories for a lot of people, Im sure there will be many more new ones as well! You can use the brushes from a newer KA , they will have a corner that is angled, but sill still work just fine.
Can you explain the spring piece you adjusted at the 3:30 mark? I'm doing some work on my K45 and took it apart too much, and can't figure out how that speed adjuster goes back together.
Hey, great work! Could you give an estimate for the paint stripping and repainting of the parts? I did disable my machine completely and think about respraying it myself or getting it powder coated. thanks
Thanks! I cant really give an estimate for anyone else, but expect it to be around $120 to $150 to have it powdercoated at a powder coat shop. These are the prices I have been hearing others get when they ask for a quote from their local powder coaters.
Great job... beautiful color and finish. My lady friend has a K45 that has an intermittent problem where it goes completely dead but if I turn the beater a little by hand it will then go and work fine until it happens again.... which is at random but maybe every 10 or 20 uses. The brushes are nice and long (about 5/8" past the end of the spring) and I cleaned the points on the speed control as well as I could but it still does the same thing. I was able to determine that whenever it goes dead the armature is in the same exact position. I found this out by marking the position of the fly weight on the governor when it goes dead. If I then rotate the armature by pushing on the fly weight it will then work fine until it happens to land in that position again. If I manually rotate the fly weight to that marked position it will be dead when the switch is turned on. Any idea what the issue could be?
Nice work! It pops! I have a K45 that runs but the speed doesn't adjust, it just takes off at high speed no matter the speed setting. What would you recommend to take a look at/replace?
@@chevyguy6961 I ended up replacing it shortly after that comment and it did the trick. Hopefully someone with this question in the future reads this and figures it out. Thanks
I planned on just repainting mine that I inherited form a past boyfriend's mom. But the cord was very old and decided to replace it. I see you just kind of ripped yours off but I'm unsure with mine. I tugged on it a bit and seemed secure. I ended up cutting the wires off at the end of the white part of the cord... Seems like the black part goes deep into the mixer and I cannot see what it's connected to even after removing all the parts you have. What can I do?
Yes, the cord requires quite a bit of disassembly to replace it, it connects to the machine with 2 wire nuts that are tucked alongside the motor coil. You pretty much have to remove everything from the rear of the machine to access it, and seperate the 2 motor halves to fish it back through
The on off switch is worn out on mine. It is definitely not as crisp as yours and if you pull back on the speed control lever it bounces to the on position. It still turns on and off though. Where could I find a replacement switch. What would you recommend?
Hmm, you may find a replacement used switch assembly on ebay, aside from that I cant really say where else to find one. If it pops from off to low there are several things you can check. It could be the lever arm is bent where it engages in the notches on the housing. It could also be the spring attached to the speed control getting hung up, or the arm going to the speed control is not contacting it correctly. Just a few things you can check. Hope this helps!
Seen your vid with the trick for replacing a resistor. What size resistor would you use for a mixmaster model 11 and when you replace plugs do you use 3 prong?
I use a 5 watt 180 ohm resistor, a 10 watt would be ideal, but it doesnt quite fit in the limited room for a resistor. I do use a 3 prong cord and ground the chassis.
Hey! I have one of these i ordered off goodwill i'm planning on restoring for my girlfriend. It hasn't arrived yet but its looking like its going to need new paint, do you have any tips? I can't afford powdercoating (im in college) so I was planning on using rustoleum paint and clearcoat. I also noticed the wire looked a bit old, so I was thinking of swapping it out for a newer one with a ground, how hard would that be?
You can definitely paint it! Just make sure you prep it extremely well, and wipe it down with acetone, or alcohol, or something that will remove any surface oils. Paint, as well as powder coat, is only as good as the prep :) The cord is tricky, you have to pretty much disassemble the entire rear of the machine to get to the connection.
@@vintagemixersandmore1666 The cord on it now is practically crumbling so I guess i'll have to brace myself. I'm planning on taking it mostly apart to paint and regrease anyway, where can I attach the ground to safely ground the machine?
@@calebfrankenberger7383 You can attach the ground to the stud (threaded rod) that the coil is mounted to. I usually installed the coil, then the ground wire was attached to the stud on the left side of the coil looking at it from the rear, and held in place by the nut that secures the coil. When you are disassembling it you will most likely see where I am referring to. When you remove the rear components, and the bearing plate, you will pretty much only see the fan on the armature, until you remove the armature. Then you will see the nuts that secure the coil.
@@vintagemixersandmore1666 Thanks! I got the new power cord installed and tested (i freaked out before i realized the brushes were supposed to spark sometimes), now my only issue is strain relief. Since i used an old 125v computer cord, theres no grommet or anything to fit in the whole where a strain relief would usually go. Is there any kinda DIY hacks for this?
@@calebfrankenberger7383 Awesome!! The brushes will spark more when new or if removed and reinstalled until they seat properly as well. I often reused the U shaped metal piece with the cardboard attached as a strain relief, or if it was missing I used a couple zip ties on the cord to keep it from pulling on the cord internally. The zip tie would hit the inside of the hole where the cord goes through and stop it from straining if pulled.
I have two questions. The internal gear (non ss K45) that the planetary spins against is ramped 1/16th” as one of the 5 screws wasn’t secure which causes slight planing of 3/16” of the planetary rim and slight damage to the raised screwhead. Have you ever had to reseat the internal gear? I need to replace the cord. Would it be OK to splice the cord above the speed control and ground to the rear 2 screw plate?
Lovely restoration Rick !
Thanks!
I hope the video turned out ok, I spent days dealing with windows issues trying to edit then upload this video, and finally got rid of windows 10, installed linux and set out to try to learn a new video editor, which I know I have a long way to go yet lol. Seems to go much quicker now, the entire process, so hopefully they will get quicker and better with time.
Well done. Thank you!
Perfect.
Can you show a 230 v conversation
Regarding the two different greases: given how clean the inside was (but not the outside) I'm thinking maybe someone decided to *add* grease inside the motor housing without removing the original grease? That would explain why they are two different colors. It also might be that they did some cleanup in there when they added the grease. If so, perhaps didn't realize they needed to grease the planetary, so it only had what was left of the original grease. I can't think of another explanation.
Just found you a few days ago and am watching as time allows; you make great videos and do wonderful work! Just joined your FB group too, the other day :)
Hi Melissa, thank you!! I think you may be right, that makes perfect sense about the grease. I have been finding the newer the kitchenaid, the less grease in the planetary, personally I think it is because they realized it leaked out, less grease less leakage lol. I may be way off, but that was my first thought!
Hi there! I have this K45 Hobart model in the same green. However, mine makes a knocking sound when I turn it on. It works fine, but just has a consistent knock. I know this video is over a year old, but figured I'd ask and see if you had a clue as to why that may be happening, considering you seem to know your way around these quite well. I'd join your facebook group, but I don't have a profile anymore, so I'm asking here.
Thank you for your time! And nice job on the restoration! It looks great with the new paint job.
Thanks! Well, it could be that the grease has all hardened, or a flat spot on the fiber worm gear, these are the 2 things that come to mind. Hope this helps!!
@@vintagemixersandmore1666 hey again Rick, so I had only used it once in the past year. I went ahead and turned it on to see if it still made noise. It still did, for about 30 seconds. Then it stopped. I'm not sure if it helped, but the knocking was reduced at higher speeds before I noticed it was gone.
Then again, it didn't have anything attached. I don't know if that helps any or is relevant. I just know that this is my second time using it, and contrary to what I previously believed, the knocking was inconsistent in volume and timing (before it stopped altogether).
Could it just be a lack of use? Or would that still be the gears or lack of grease? It's just weird that it would stop.
Also, I took a look at some of your other videos. I'm sorry you stopped doing repairs and restorations. I hope your health improves and things get better!
Thank you for taking the time.
@@KablamX Thanks! Yes it could be from sitting as well, may have been some hardened grease on a spot on a gear that eventually wore through. I guess if its working fine now then you are probably good to go!
@@vintagemixersandmore1666 Hi Rick. Yeah, I've been checking routinely and it seems the sound only went away until I actually put some brownie batter to mix. Then it had consistent noise. I asked a friend and he says I'd need to replace one of the gears, since he believes it has a broken tooth somewhere. So at least I know what the problem is (I think).
@@KablamX Yea I would agree, it is probably the plastic gear inside. They are designed to fail if the machine ever gets jammed up to protect the rest of the machine.
Where would I purchase the replacement gasket and baffle? I have looked online and only found used ones on eBay and the new ones don't match. I have the Hobart k45. Not sure the year only wanting to clean it up due to build up and needing to sterilize it.
I have a pre-solid state K45 likely from the 1970's. I put in a new gasket and new grease and calibrated the speed. It spun at 60 RPM on speed level 1 but after I tried to set speed level 6 with the bottom screw, level 1 speed came out of calibration and now the mixer won't spin slower than 80 RPM no matter how I set it. Not sure if this is related but there is some light but visible arching/sparks coming from behind the copper "'T" plate when the mixer is running on slower settings (1-4). Any idea what could be wrong?
I inherited my grandmother's k45 after her passing several years ago. I took it because I remembered helping her baking when I was a child and had fond memories of this machine. I noticed that the brushes are almost worn out, this machine was used regularly and the white paint has a yellowush greasy coating which is actually cleaning up nice. Are the brushes the same as the k45solid state and newer models? I also need to replace the power cord since it is extremely soft and wires are starting to show through. It does run though so I dont need to worry about the capacitor etc.
Oh, nice! Im glad to hear it cleaned up so well, sometimes they can really get stained. These machines, any brand really, definitely hold a lot of memories for a lot of people, Im sure there will be many more new ones as well! You can use the brushes from a newer KA , they will have a corner that is angled, but sill still work just fine.
Can you explain the spring piece you adjusted at the 3:30 mark? I'm doing some work on my K45 and took it apart too much, and can't figure out how that speed adjuster goes back together.
Hey, great work!
Could you give an estimate for the paint stripping and repainting of the parts? I did disable my machine completely and think about respraying it myself or getting it powder coated.
thanks
Thanks! I cant really give an estimate for anyone else, but expect it to be around $120 to $150 to have it powdercoated at a powder coat shop. These are the prices I have been hearing others get when they ask for a quote from their local powder coaters.
Great job... beautiful color and finish. My lady friend has a K45 that has an intermittent problem where it goes completely dead but if I turn the beater a little by hand it will then go and work fine until it happens again.... which is at random but maybe every 10 or 20 uses. The brushes are nice and long (about 5/8" past the end of the spring) and I cleaned the points on the speed control as well as I could but it still does the same thing. I was able to determine that whenever it goes dead the armature is in the same exact position. I found this out by marking the position of the fly weight on the governor when it goes dead. If I then rotate the armature by pushing on the fly weight it will then work fine until it happens to land in that position again. If I manually rotate the fly weight to that marked position it will be dead when the switch is turned on. Any idea what the issue could be?
Nice work! It pops! I have a K45 that runs but the speed doesn't adjust, it just takes off at high speed no matter the speed setting. What would you recommend to take a look at/replace?
Your capacitor is bad.
@@chevyguy6961 I ended up replacing it shortly after that comment and it did the trick. Hopefully someone with this question in the future reads this and figures it out. Thanks
@@mikeyand3 Your welcome, glad I could help. My latest project is upgrading my K5-A Lift Bowl to solid state. I'm using part's out of a K45-SS.
Hi! I just bought a k45 kitchen aid! It will only go to high speed, can anyone help me?
I have the same problem!
I planned on just repainting mine that I inherited form a past boyfriend's mom. But the cord was very old and decided to replace it. I see you just kind of ripped yours off but I'm unsure with mine. I tugged on it a bit and seemed secure. I ended up cutting the wires off at the end of the white part of the cord... Seems like the black part goes deep into the mixer and I cannot see what it's connected to even after removing all the parts you have. What can I do?
Yes, the cord requires quite a bit of disassembly to replace it, it connects to the machine with 2 wire nuts that are tucked alongside the motor coil. You pretty much have to remove everything from the rear of the machine to access it, and seperate the 2 motor halves to fish it back through
The on off switch is worn out on mine. It is definitely not as crisp as yours and if you pull back on the speed control lever it bounces to the on position. It still turns on and off though. Where could I find a replacement switch. What would you recommend?
Hmm, you may find a replacement used switch assembly on ebay, aside from that I cant really say where else to find one. If it pops from off to low there are several things you can check. It could be the lever arm is bent where it engages in the notches on the housing. It could also be the spring attached to the speed control getting hung up, or the arm going to the speed control is not contacting it correctly. Just a few things you can check. Hope this helps!
Seen your vid with the trick for replacing a resistor. What size resistor would you use for a mixmaster model 11 and when you replace plugs do you use 3 prong?
I use a 5 watt 180 ohm resistor, a 10 watt would be ideal, but it doesnt quite fit in the limited room for a resistor. I do use a 3 prong cord and ground the chassis.
Thank you.
What do you charge to restoration in the the k45
Hey! I have one of these i ordered off goodwill i'm planning on restoring for my girlfriend. It hasn't arrived yet but its looking like its going to need new paint, do you have any tips? I can't afford powdercoating (im in college) so I was planning on using rustoleum paint and clearcoat.
I also noticed the wire looked a bit old, so I was thinking of swapping it out for a newer one with a ground, how hard would that be?
You can definitely paint it! Just make sure you prep it extremely well, and wipe it down with acetone, or alcohol, or something that will remove any surface oils. Paint, as well as powder coat, is only as good as the prep :) The cord is tricky, you have to pretty much disassemble the entire rear of the machine to get to the connection.
@@vintagemixersandmore1666 The cord on it now is practically crumbling so I guess i'll have to brace myself. I'm planning on taking it mostly apart to paint and regrease anyway, where can I attach the ground to safely ground the machine?
@@calebfrankenberger7383 You can attach the ground to the stud (threaded rod) that the coil is mounted to. I usually installed the coil, then the ground wire was attached to the stud on the left side of the coil looking at it from the rear, and held in place by the nut that secures the coil. When you are disassembling it you will most likely see where I am referring to. When you remove the rear components, and the bearing plate, you will pretty much only see the fan on the armature, until you remove the armature. Then you will see the nuts that secure the coil.
@@vintagemixersandmore1666 Thanks! I got the new power cord installed and tested (i freaked out before i realized the brushes were supposed to spark sometimes), now my only issue is strain relief. Since i used an old 125v computer cord, theres no grommet or anything to fit in the whole where a strain relief would usually go. Is there any kinda DIY hacks for this?
@@calebfrankenberger7383 Awesome!! The brushes will spark more when new or if removed and reinstalled until they seat properly as well. I often reused the U shaped metal piece with the cardboard attached as a strain relief, or if it was missing I used a couple zip ties on the cord to keep it from pulling on the cord internally. The zip tie would hit the inside of the hole where the cord goes through and stop it from straining if pulled.
I have two questions. The internal gear (non ss K45) that the planetary spins against is ramped 1/16th” as one of the 5 screws wasn’t secure which causes slight planing of 3/16” of the planetary rim and slight damage to the raised screwhead. Have you ever had to reseat the internal gear? I need to replace the cord. Would it be OK to splice the cord above the speed control and ground to the rear 2 screw plate?
Looking at his hands is SO useful.