Air and Vapour Permeability in your homes wall sarking details.
Вставка
- Опубліковано 22 лип 2024
- Building wraps/membranes are useful for so many reasons. Building performance is only a part of the picture, when looking at control layers, with building envelope loads.
When considering where the building is and what environment a building is maintaining, it becomes clear what we should be expecting from our wall systems.
* Protecting the building during construction from weather conditions. over the duration of the build.
* Controlling moisture in wall cavities is critical with a vapour barrier.
* Improving insulation performance
* Stopping moisture from outside getting into your wall system, and stopping moisture from inside getting in a wall system, with a vapour barrier on other circumstances.
#vapourbarrier #buildingscience #vaporbarrier
0:00 Intro Air Barrier Discussion
3:36 Vapour Control
5:36 Air Tightness
7:27 Air Tight Tapes
9:09 Water Tightness - Навчання та стиль
Great Video. I wish I had seen this before completing my building envelope.
krog65 Sorry for the delay, in getting this one out. 😉
Can you do a video covering the suppliers of such products to construct the perfect wall and roof for Melbourne climate zone. Also what methods of construction to employ to minimise thermal bridging in walls, roofs and floors in double story homes.
Thanks and keep up the great work
We shall do our best! Especially as the channel gets more subscribers. 😉
Check out the face on Johnny K @1:54 when his mobile phone gets a message. Gold.
Efficiency Matrix Good pick up.
I met Andy at AusFenex Expo. What a pro!!!!!
Max Young He is a legend! 😉
Great informative video as always.
Following on from this, it would make sense to look at external wall insulation (e.g. Rockwool Comfortboard)?
That would complete the building envelope.
Thanks for the feedback. We have a lot of videos in the pipeline.
Great video Joseph and John, so glad I found your channel.
I’m trying to figure out how I can retro fit these ideas into my old draughty and cold 50’s BV in suburban Melbourne. It has no insulation or building wrap at all.
Thanks for the great content covering these aspects of building that gets overlooked far too often.
Dave.
There will be a video soon, retrofitting wraps in an older home. look out for it. 👍🏻😉
fantastic, can’t wait!
Great work guy love this video good information explain well. I really need to re think my building wrap. I have been using breather wrap under my foam render panel, but pretty sure it offers very little performance.
Do you have a recommendations for building wraps under EPS foam panels?
Check out "Pro Clima" products. I'm looking at using the SOLITEX EXTASANA product for my ICF build.
Can you recommend a spray on water / vapor barrier oe peel and stick that can be used on ICF homes? There doesn't seem to be very many products in Australia for these items, but in America and Europe, there is plenty to choose from!
what is the recommended way to attach the membrane to the frame? I'm assuming staples are not good enough and compromise the air tightness? Would a product like Kingspan Air-Cell Permishield 65 be a good membrane with added bonus to act as external insulation? Or is it not meant to be air tight?
building a corrugated clad granny flat with steel frame - do I still need starter (stud) strips and do I need an internal and external wrap?
I’ve built a home before these standards and there’s a lot of heat coming in the master bedroom (the sun hits the wall) this is a double brick wall with no windows or insulation. What would be your best suggestion? I’m thinking blown insulation around the envelope but open to any suggestion. I still need to address the fans with a draft stopper. Cheapest solutions will come first. Still plenty more research to do, I don’t want bad repercussions for my solution (do it once do it right)
Love your site and info, has me rethinking aspects of current Reno (in its final stages)
I used Proctor wrap on this renovation, despite pushback from tradies who weren't familiar with it. I have also recommended it to clients. 2 issues:
1/ we found the proctor tape didn't stick well,it came off, we had real trouble getting adhesion, and the tradie ended up using Silver tape which stuck well.
2. Taping top and bottom wasn't done and i don't recall info on the proctorwrap explaining the importance as you've demonstrated.
I don't have access to the top, but the wall over it is hebel and currently there is a >50mm gap running at base of the wall. Installer had suggested to run angle along, but now I'm wondering if there is better way to seal it? What about when there is any water vapour between the proctor and the hebel? How does that run out if i seal the base fully?
Thanks for your comment. 1. With these tapes, they are pressure sensitive so it's super important to stick them down well with a scraper or your hand. ua-cam.com/video/6cB_vPnETTs/v-deo.html 2. When you have the wrap there should not be substantial liquid water in that gap, and so it should be able to permeate through the Enviroseal wrap.
Would you use the proctor product then standard sarking on top?
What would you recommend to do with an existing home with no external wrap that’s being gutted on the inside ? Wrap in between each stud bay ?
Im building a tiny home at the northern rivers, should i wrap my home on the inside or the outside or both?
Would love to see you do something simular for the tropics, where vapour barrier is typically placed on the warm side (outside) of the insulation and is therefore often coupled with the waterproofing layer and reflective foil insulation however I worry that this is am impermiable layer with no ability to allow trapped vapour or interstitial condensation to dry outwards in a humid atmosphere.
Hi Sandra, we discussed this in our latest youtube video, around 24:10
ua-cam.com/video/TgswRUmejyY/v-deo.html
Enjoy... Thanks for watching our content.
Mate I used the foil tape and I tried pulling it off it was that so tight and stuck it ripped the sarking
Hi just wondering how waterproof these type of wrap are? I was planning on building a cedar clad cabin with stud wall, osb, this wrap or proclima or similar and then cedar cladding would that be suitable?
Give us a call to discuss further.
What do you recommend under Terracotta Roof Tiles? Currently no sarking at all (70 year old building). Ceiling batts are the only insulation. Removing tiles to apply a wrap is an option. What product to use? Maybe you guys could come and video it and I won’t charge set hire fees 😉
For roof tiles then the reinforced medium duty Enviroseal ProctorWrap HTS vapour permeable sarking is the way to go. However, to retrofit sarking you would need to lift the tiles. The function of the sarking in this case is as a secondary water control layer. If there are no problems with the tiles stopping the water from getting in then I'd suggest you leave it alone. If adding an air control layer, this is most likely going to be located at the ceiling line on the interior side of the ceiling insulation. (assuming you are not in the tropics !) Efficiency matrix have all the products and experience to help you there.
Andy Russell want to add Solar Panels, but don’t want to regret not doing something underneath before that.
I do wonder what your views are on the product foil board.
Being foam it insulated as well as creates a barrier but it is certainly not vapour permeable.
It can be a useful product depending on the climate and where you put it in your wall detail. 👍🏻
@@ecoevo in Victoria i had in on the outside of the studs behind the bricks with fibreglass under the foil board then plaster.
How do you handle vapor permeability with insulated concrete sandwich panels?
What product is that Evans?
@@ecoevo THERMOMASS XPS Insulated Precast Concrete Panels
@@tsport100 Vapour permeable wraps are aimed to maintain the moisture level in wall cavities where building materials are sensitive to water contents. the most commonly known example is the timber frame in Australia brick veneer construction. Thermomass XPS panels, on the other hand, consisted of precasted concrete and XPS board. Both key layers are considered water insensitive plus it does not have a cavity. Therefore, no moist air in the wall construction. In addition, both layers are considered airtight as well.
Do you think you could use a product like Proctor wrap - Enviro Seal for a passive house? I know it's not on the PassivHaus product list, but with an air permeability rating of 0.02@50pa (tested to EN12114) would this product make the grade?
It sure would/could! Same as smartvap
tighthouse.com.au/collections/building-wraps-accessories/products/internal-building-membrane-1500mm-x-30-m-roll-residential
👍🏻
@@ecoevo When membranes like Sika and Intello sell for 5x the price, are you sure? I'm about to build and don't want to go for the wrong product.
@@ecoevo Thanks for the link to your own product
@@Super--Star 👍🏻
Hi Guys,
is it possible to install an airtight membrane internally followed by insulation and then a vapour membrane. It won’t be passivehaus standard but will it be tight enough to require a heat recovery and mechanical ventilation?
Any home is tight enough to require a heat recovery system. Or at least a 24hour ventilation system, with no heat recovery.
Can I use that green wrap on the inside of the house before the plasterboard if I’m renovating ?
You would use a different wrap on the inside. This one. With an AB tape available from tighthouse also, tighthouse.com.au/collections/building-wraps-accessories/products/internal-building-membrane-1500mm-x-30-m-roll-residential
@@ecoevo which will be the better option for a renovation if budget allows it - professionally done spray foam or internal wrap with insulation batts considering I don’t wrap between the bricks and frame ?
I’m thinking spray foam is better
Since this membrane is air tight but vapour permeable, do you think this would make the perfect wrap for straw bale houses?
Tom, sure, you can wrap the outside of a straw bale home with a vapour permeable air tight wrap!
@@ecoevo shouldn´t the vapor permeable air barrier be placed on the inside part of the wall?
Joel Mendes Nope, in the southern colder parts of Australia, the outside part of the wall needs to be water vapour permeable.
@@ecoevo is that because of the high level of humidity generated within the home -so a need to have it escape?
@@somethingdiffdesign5809 It's a combination of the warmer air in a home, and because our activities generate humidity, when that air gets in contact with colder surfaces in our construction elements they will deposit this moisture on these surfaces. It's exactly the same effect that you see when you pour a cold beer into a glass. We cover this in a bit of detail in our latest Proclima video. Enjoy.
What house has water hitting your wrap , it’s always covered this not really showing real life what happens behind building wraps
Ok