Thanks, Joe. Nice to hear these talks on specific topics. Break it down for those of use with short attention spans. I wish you'd drink that coffee though.
There are many air and vapor control layers....fluid applied and fully adhered membranes are typical and are installed directly over exterior sheathing such as plywood, OSB and gypsum board....There are also sheathings that have integral air and vapor control such as Huber ZIP. A common way of providing a 1/4 inch gap is using rolled sill gasket material. The insulation is typically installed with cap nails. The cladding is attached with long nails or screws when the insulation is less than 1.5 inches thick. When it is thicker, 1x4 furring is installed with long screws through the insulation into the framing. The cladding is then attached to the 1x4 furring. Our website has hundreds of figures, photographs, details and guides describing in detail these types of assemblies. It is not possible to describe all approaches in a short video.
Thank you Joe, for everything you have taught me. I will soon be building cottages in The Philippines, with Hardie plank, 3/4" rainscreen, 4" of rocks (Rockwool), 7 perm WRB, 3/4 plywood, over steel studs. ERV, dehumidifier and lots of fans. I know its going to work!!
Great info and explained to make a guy like me understand. Ivwouldbkike to build one of your houses to live in. Do you have plans that that can be purchased ready to submit so i can save money by accepting something that isn't custom, and that has peen previously built and possibly revised as a result of the build? Thank you.
so to summarize: -exterior reservoir with permeable paint on it -air gap -vapor stopper layer -air gap -exterior sheathing with permeable building paper
Thanks, Joe. Nice to hear these talks on specific topics. Break it down for those of use with short attention spans. I wish you'd drink that coffee though.
There are many air and vapor control layers....fluid applied and fully adhered membranes are typical and are installed directly over exterior sheathing such as plywood, OSB and gypsum board....There are also sheathings that have integral air and vapor control such as Huber ZIP. A common way of providing a 1/4 inch gap is using rolled sill gasket material. The insulation is typically installed with cap nails. The cladding is attached with long nails or screws when the insulation is less than 1.5 inches thick. When it is thicker, 1x4 furring is installed with long screws through the insulation into the framing. The cladding is then attached to the 1x4 furring.
Our website has hundreds of figures, photographs, details and guides describing in detail these types of assemblies. It is not possible to describe all approaches in a short video.
Thank you Joe, for everything you have taught me. I will soon be building cottages in The Philippines, with Hardie plank, 3/4" rainscreen, 4" of rocks (Rockwool), 7 perm WRB, 3/4 plywood, over steel studs. ERV, dehumidifier and lots of fans. I know its going to work!!
Why steel studs rather than wood? Termites?
Thanks again. I love rain screens
Great info and explained to make a guy like me understand. Ivwouldbkike to build one of your houses to live in. Do you have plans that that can be purchased ready to submit so i can save money by accepting something that isn't custom, and that has peen previously built and possibly revised as a result of the build? Thank you.
so to summarize:
-exterior reservoir with permeable paint on it
-air gap
-vapor stopper layer
-air gap
-exterior sheathing with permeable building paper
Joe thank you You will go down as the Thomas Jefferson of building science or would you prefer Neils Bohr