I HAD A BATTLE TODAY TRYING TO FIND AN AIRLEAK ON A BUDDYS 372XP 2 HOURS LATER SHE WAS FIXED WAS THE FUEL LINE BETWEEN THE TANK AND WHERE IT COMES THROUGH THE PLASTIC CARB BASE ,,HAD A LITTLE NICK IN IT SAW KEPT LEANING OUT AT FULL THROTTLE
To know how to do something like this is really cool. To be able to do this and teach us the way you do, with your way of explaining it is absolutely awesome. Seriously. Thank you for the great video Tinman.
I am at about the same stage as you in my 034 Super build with my daughter. I was able to repair the broken pin for the brake and did bearings. You are definitely going to finish first though, I can only do a little at a time with her. It's a lot of fun working on these old saws. Have a good one!
Hi Tinman, Usually I use a left over piece of steel round stock to heat by inner races. Choose a piece of round stock slightly larger then the inner race of the bearing. Heet the steel with a flame, when hot lay the bearing on top with only the inner race touching. This way the heat transfers in to the race without having to use direct heat on the bearing. Works great for me! Great vid again, always something to learn in every video. Keep on wrenching!
Temp differential is your friend. I always put the parts I want to shrink in the freezer. You can use a hot water boiling water from the microwave to warm things as well. Turn your heat gun down. As most of the paint strippers can get to 1000 degrees.
If I remember correctly the pins should be driven out with a punch when disassembling the case on 026. It been 25 years since I looked at the official Stihl service manual. Thanks Timman for showing the struggle is real.
Well done I assemble some different stuff what I use is an electric fry pan they settle down after a bout 30 mins check with a IR thermometer other part goes in the deep freezer
I just draw the bearings in..... I have made tools that enable me to draw the bearings into the cases and then draw the crank into the bearings. I fit the oil pump and let the bearing butt up against the oil pump. I have built many saws like that, saves heating and cooling, making sure the temperature is just right, you don't overheat the bearings, you don't need to measure where the bearing sits in it's pocket etc etc etc.
Thanks for an honest video. That's why i like this channel, you show the reality of working on something rather than a "magic edited to perfection" video. Keep on keeping it real. I'll be interested to watch the case seal installation for some tips and tricks. It seems like I always ruin at least one new seal every time. I don't work on saws very often so I'm not ashamed to admit that I must be doing something wrong.
Thanks again Tinman for a great video. When the weather cools down this fall I want to start the process for bringing two old 026 Stihls back into service. Your videos will be a great help to me!
Hi tinman , i hate flippy caps aswell ive spilt bar oil on myself many times , my last one i covered my left boot now its waterproof and a darker in colour 😂 , probably wont be long and the other will match, Cheers Luke
Interesting. I had to look-up who makes Stihl now. I was curious after seeing so many Vietnamese using one in videos. I wondered why the beat to hell and used up top handle models were $250 here in pawn shops. I will never be able to afford a Stihl. It is just as well now I see they are made all over the world with high end still being made in Germany.
Now tinman I will pack those nylon caged bearings with assembly grease freeze the bearing for 4 to 8 hours then heat the case half until it hits 275 to 325 degrees and the bearing should fall in place and the grease should stop the nylon cage from getting hot
Curious about why you wouldn’t put some paint on the raw magnesium while it’s still easy? Bulk paint and a modelers brush to stop the rot? Seems like the best way to go….
Just a thought have you ever tried to put the crank in the freezer I’ve done that with other things when seating bearings I have not done a bottom end on a saw yet though
I HAD A BATTLE TODAY TRYING TO FIND AN AIRLEAK ON A BUDDYS 372XP 2 HOURS LATER SHE WAS FIXED WAS THE FUEL LINE BETWEEN THE TANK AND WHERE IT COMES THROUGH THE PLASTIC CARB BASE ,,HAD A LITTLE NICK IN IT SAW KEPT LEANING OUT AT FULL THROTTLE
Thanks for a great video to watch on the 4th, happy independence day to all!
Thanks for leaving the hard parts in. I appreciate when the real life struggle is left in and not on the cutting room floor. Keep it real Friend.
To know how to do something like this is really cool. To be able to do this and teach us the way you do, with your way of explaining it is absolutely awesome. Seriously. Thank you for the great video Tinman.
Another job well done
Well done Tinman, I think I would have been very close to throwing that across the workshop. 😂
I am at about the same stage as you in my 034 Super build with my daughter. I was able to repair the broken pin for the brake and did bearings. You are definitely going to finish first though, I can only do a little at a time with her. It's a lot of fun working on these old saws.
Have a good one!
Hi Tinman,
Usually I use a left over piece of steel round stock to heat by inner races. Choose a piece of round stock slightly larger then the inner race of the bearing. Heet the steel with a flame, when hot lay the bearing on top with only the inner race touching. This way the heat transfers in to the race without having to use direct heat on the bearing. Works great for me!
Great vid again, always something to learn in every video. Keep on wrenching!
Temp differential is your friend. I always put the parts I want to shrink in the freezer. You can use a hot water boiling water from the microwave to warm things as well. Turn your heat gun down. As most of the paint strippers can get to 1000 degrees.
If I remember correctly the pins should be driven out with a punch when disassembling the case on 026. It been 25 years since I looked at the official Stihl service manual. Thanks Timman for showing the struggle is real.
I agree. Dry ice works great for bearings and cranks as well.
Well done
I assemble some different stuff what I use is an electric fry pan they settle down after a bout 30 mins check with a IR thermometer other part goes in the deep freezer
That's a good way to do the plastic cage bearings. Good tip!
The ones that go easy often make me second guess myself👍🏻
I just draw the bearings in.....
I have made tools that enable me to draw the bearings into the cases and then draw the crank into the bearings. I fit the oil pump and let the bearing butt up against the oil pump.
I have built many saws like that, saves heating and cooling, making sure the temperature is just right, you don't overheat the bearings, you don't need to measure where the bearing sits in it's pocket etc etc etc.
Looking forward to the next vid. Pretty cool to see how you reassemble the bottom end.
Just had one of these given to me. This series will a great help. Thank you!!
Awesome job tinman 👍
Get yourself a piece of half inch plate glass. 12×12 and you can get sticky sand paper and clean up those mating surfaces.
You make those bearing installation look very easy. Good technique 👍👍
I wanna try a compete build so bad. You make it look easy even when you’re having trouble. Thanks for all the great info man!!
How’s it going,
Great video as always.
Have a happy safe 4th🇺🇸
Never get tired of watching you do this... always awesome. TC Mahalo Tinman
Ikut menonton bos
Compliments from me today 😊
Thank-you tin-man
👍🏻CG
I so appreciate this teaching! Thank you for "keepin' it real!"
There is a lot to be said for the struggle and the journey!👍💪
Thanks for an honest video. That's why i like this channel, you show the reality of working on something rather than a "magic edited to perfection" video. Keep on keeping it real. I'll be interested to watch the case seal installation for some tips and tricks. It seems like I always ruin at least one new seal every time. I don't work on saws very often so I'm not ashamed to admit that I must be doing something wrong.
Good Job, that will be a nice one!
Thanks Tinman for taking the time to show us how you do things, I always learn something new!
Another great video! What would be the longest bar that would be realistic on a 260?
Stihl says 16”-20”
I recommend sticking with .325 if you go with a 18” or 20”.
I am really enjoying the 026 build. Looking forward to the next episode .
i like loctite 515 anerobic flange sealant with the gasket, i won't dry until they are together and tight. shit is fantastic.
Thanks again Tinman for a great video. When the weather cools down this fall I want to start the process for bringing two old 026 Stihls back into service. Your videos will be a great help to me!
after watching you for a while i finally found the courage to split my first crankcase. its a ms200t and i plan on changing bearings.
Hi tinman , i hate flippy caps aswell ive spilt bar oil on myself many times , my last one i covered my left boot now its waterproof and a darker in colour 😂 , probably wont be long and the other will match,
Cheers Luke
I seem to dump bar oil onto my left leg often
i only did it once, then I put the caps on after that.
Interesting. I had to look-up who makes Stihl now. I was curious after seeing so many Vietnamese using one in videos. I wondered why the beat to hell and used up top handle models were $250 here in pawn shops. I will never be able to afford a Stihl. It is just as well now I see they are made all over the world with high end still being made in Germany.
Always informative, Thanks
Lost some bar oil on my leg a few times as well. 😢
I wasn't happy paying that much for a brand new saw with warranty and then wear bar oil
This saw already has an attitude. Gonna be a spicy one in the wood
Now tinman I will pack those nylon caged bearings with assembly grease freeze the bearing for 4 to 8 hours then heat the case half until it hits 275 to 325 degrees and the bearing should fall in place and the grease should stop the nylon cage from getting hot
That's a good trick.
Curious about why you wouldn’t put some paint on the raw magnesium while it’s still easy? Bulk paint and a modelers brush to stop the rot? Seems like the best way to go….
hi.why not put the both bearings first on the crank and then heat up the block.easier putting together.just wondering.
How's the Tinman and family
Exciting. Wish I had some of your calm. I'm Irish so I think God may forgive my temper.
Just a thought have you ever tried to put the crank in the freezer I’ve done that with other things when seating bearings
I have not done a bottom end on a saw yet though
Yep thay works except my freezer is across property so it would be warm befire I turned the camera back on.
I just read the message under mine lol someone else said that already sorry
I have a carcass of a 260 I shlda sent ya
That's gonna be a great saw when your done!