Thanks Rob. you da man. I've learned a lot from these vids. Never would've used fish glue without you. It's my favorite glue for guitars. stuff is great and doesn't smell horrible like hide glue
@ 3:44 "I tighten the screws until I hear a crack......I then I back off the screws about a quarter turn". Really everyone......no comments. That's comedy gold right there people.
No trade secret at all. I clearly show this in my videos and in great detail in my online guitar building courses available via my website. I do not know what the exact angle is as I have never measured it. Most builders use an angle that works with the top radius and bridge and saddle height they choose to give them the correct action. For my building sequence, 30 foot radius and approx 10mm bridge height a slight neck angle is all I need to get the set up I look for on my guitars.
I cover an acoustic bolt on neck in my youtube videos. The electric bolt on neck, which is different than the acoustic bolt on neck is covered in detail in my online electric guitar building course with Mike Snider. www.obrienguitars.com/courses
I’ll be honest I’m not a fan of barrel nuts. I’ve seen them crack the neck and nearly pull out. I prefer a threaded nut sert that screws into the neck.
I built a OOO style steel string acoustic about 25 years ago under the tutelage of luthier Tom Knatt. This was the method we used. In 25 years the neck hasn’t required removal but if it ever does it will be a simple procedure.
The fretboard extension is glued to the soundboard. I then level and refret the fretboard on this guitar. I also only use a 30 foot radius on the soundboard.
Love this guy I’ve been building Guitars now for 10 years if it wasn’t for Rob O’Brien I would never be able to get it done. This man turned me into a master Luthier. The best content on the Internet!!!!! Thank you Mr. Robert O’Brien you are the man!!! When people ask me how I learned how to build guitars I tell him I went to school of Robert O’Brien!!
I love this method!! Since I started to make steel string guitars with this method (even Harp Guitars, with more tension) necks are more stable. Instead, I prefer to make it all by hand, I trust more in my hand skills than a powertool. Thanks for the video! Cheers from Finland 😊
Salut OBRIEN MERCI pour cette video explicite ,saurait tu m indiquer ou puis je trouver les plan du gabarit pour tenon je souhaiterai en fabriquer un merci d avance Thierry
Tiago, (this is my son's name too) I like a gap of 3.5mm at the saddle location when a straightedge is placed along the neck without the fretboard. For my set up with a fretboard thickness of about 6,5mm and a bridge height if about 10mm this works well. It is true the fretboard extension will have to be pushed down about 1/32 inch to glue to the soundboard. When leveling/radiusing the fretboard this goes away but I still like about 1/64 drop off on the fretboard extension. Hope this helps.
Hi OBrien! Thanks alot for all you amazing videos. Sooo helpful in my first build. Question: Will the measurements of the gap (2.5mm - 3.5mm) still be the same on a 12 fret parlor guitar? Im thinking that the value should be a bit lower, because of the bridge being further away from the top of the body..? Regards form Denmark!
Hi Obrien! First of all, thank you very much for your videos! Congratulations! They are amazing! I’m from Brazil and I’m building viola caipira and classic guitar as a hobby, so far! Your videos are helping us very much! Well, I have two questions about the gap of 3,5 mm of the neck and the bridge.
@tyfude Thanks for the compliments. When leveling the fretboard I let the fretboard extension taper off from the neck to body joint about a 64th to a 32nd. BTW, I have a google chat group where we discuss things like this. let me know if you want access.
@sirgreggins8824 It really doesn't matter what size you use as long as you use a bit and guide bushing that give you the results you want. For what I do I have found that the 5/8 O.D guide bushing and the 1/2 straight cut bit work well.
@johncharnock You are correct. However, cutting in one pass is dangerous and not necessary. I use a guide bushing in the router. This eliminates the need for a bearing on the actual bit.
@johncharnock I use 1/2 inch aluminum tubing and 3/8 inch threaded rod. Use a wingnut and a washer to adjust the spreader. All items are available at your local lutherie supply warehouse.
if it needs to be tapered down because it is going up then you can use a block plane to make sure it tapers down. My experience has been that on my guitars it doesn't need to be tapered cause it already slopes down from the body joint.
@ROMELUTH Obrigado. Acabei de lançar um curso "online" (via internet) de construção do violão clásico. Vai até meu site para mais informações. Pretendo lançar também um curso via internet para violão de aço mas vai demorar. Também faço aulas particulares na minha oficina em Colorado. Abraços!
I never knew how a bolt on neck was really done .. I always thought they were only Dove tailed . thanks . do you have a series of A to Z in making an acustic Guitar out ?
If I had a gap of about 2.5mm and a fretboard of about 6.5mm, total 9mm. I would make the bridge in the 8.5mm range. This is starting to get on the thin end of the spectrum but a bridge between 8mm and 10mm will work.
If you don't have the router setup you can also do this using a forstner bit in a drill press, setting the depth and width close and cleaning with a sharp chisel. This is easier to do if you put the back on last and use a piece of wood clamped to the drill press table to rest the neck block flatly on it while drilling. You can also drill the bolt holes at the same time and easily place and remove the neck while doing the fitting. Matching the hole positions on the neck and the body becomes easy. Not sure if there is any reason why not to attach the back after the neck fitting has been done, it is sure easier to to attach and remove the bolts with the back off while fitting the neck.
Robert, pensa em fazer outra turma aqui no Brasil? Tenho interesse em participar se for o caso. Como consigo mais informações referente aos cursos? Você disponibiliza o projeto dos gabaritos desse vídeo? Grato
The fretboard extension on my guitars, and most guitars for that matter, is not flat. It tapers down about a 64th to a 32nd from the 14th fret to the soundhole.
Hi Robert. Considering neck angle, (1:40) you align the bevel so that the plain of the neck leaves a small gap at the top of the sound hole. It has been my understanding that the neck and soundboard angle should equal180 degrees. It would seem, if I leave this gap, then there would be a slight bow in the finger board as it transitions from the neck to the sound board rather than being flat. If you have the time, any clarification would be excellent! I have truly enjoyed your tutorials. Thanks!
another excellent instructional video (with a little humor throw in for good measure!) I have a problem; I have a neck that was cut to use wood dowel pins. I am thinking to align the neck and body (without plates installed), drill a pilot hole to locate the holes on the neck and install brass inserts in the heel then screw in from the body...do you think this is structural sound?...this is for a uku. Thanks!
When you mark the angle at the 14th fret you say "notice how it is not a 90 degree angle." Does that mean that when you route the tenon the heel should sit on the guitar matching that slight angle slight angle or should that be 90 degrees?
So i got ahead of myself> Rookie mistake= i don't have an access hole to the truss rod and i have the body glued up. any suggestions on how to do that with the body closed?
1 - Why leave this difference? How would it help? 2 - When glue the fingerboard on the neck, would have a gap between the fingerboard and the body on the part before the soundboard hole, correct? How to solve this gap? Thank you very much! Best regards, Tiago
Hi Robbie, I was just wondering how the neck joint accomodates the tenon, given that it's angled away slightly. Do you make the mortise slightly oversized (or do you rout that angle into the mortise) or do you shave a bit off the bottom of the tenon?
hi i have a epiphone aj-100 im wanting to put a neck off of a epiphone hummingbird can you do that ive sanded down the aj-100 just something to do do you think the neck will work
Hi, i have a question i was wondering if you could help me with, im making a replica Gibson Firebird so i bought some plans for it, however these plans are for a set neck and for financial reasons i wanted to build a bolt on neck, is there a way i can convert these plans so that i can still build a bolt on necked guitar?
first of all thx for all the great info. How do you solve the space underneath the fretboardextension? As you show due to the angle of the neck you will have a slight gap underneath this extension. Most brands will have the extension glued directly on the top though.
Why do you use the 5/8" guide bushing instead of a 1/2"? I watched a video from jsimpson guitars, and he used 1/2" on both, making it basically a flush cut. Just curious why the 5/8".
hi! question about neck angle. in your video you had a neck without a fingerboard and you said if you put a straightedge on it it should sit right on the bridge. how to determine a proper neck angle on a already built guitar?
@OBrienGuitars Thanks for your time and quick response! This helps me understand the process. I have gleaned much from your instruction. I am currently on this step of my first build. Your clarity and humor have helped me persevere! To clarify, I have one of the pre-slotted and radius fingerboards from LMI. I'll glue it with the drop off at the the transition, then level it with a sanding stick after the neck is set and glued as you mentioned (without defeating the radius)? Thanks for your help.
Dear O'BrianGuitar, I guess your angling of the tenon must have something to do with the desired string hight over the fret board. Cumpiano & Natelson does not seem to angle their tenon ("Guitarmaking - tradition & technology"). The StewMac jig loosely suggests an angle of 1-1/2 to 2 degrees. I suspect your precise angling of the tenon is a trade secret. I really appreciate, that you share it with us. Thank you. Yet, could you elaborate on what the point of the angled tenon is, please sir?
Question: Since the bolts have relatively little bearing area on the neck block compared to the glued up area on a set neck, does the neck block need to be thicker or wider or have specific grain orientation to maintain strength in this joint?
Obrien, your soon has a beautiful name! rs. Thank you so much! It really helps. It was exactly what I was thinking. Again, congratulations for your job and attention! You are helping to develop the luthier art at a global level. I knew that you have been in Brazil, but I did not have opportunity to attend the course, do you have perspective to come back for a new course? One last question, you use the same thickness in the beginning and in the end of the fingerboard (6.5 mm). Um grande abraço
Really appreciate your wonderful videos! Does the 2.5mm-3.5mm at saddle location change with differant size body? I am building a smaller OOO model and the gap above the soundhole is about 3 times bigger than the one on your video. I use a 25' radius on top. Thanks for the help.
The gap will depend on the radius you use as well as the bridge thickness and saddle height you want. The measurement I mention is what I use on my guitars.
Olá Robert! Porque você instala o braço desnivelado em relação ao top? Esses 2,5 ou 3,5mm influenciam na sonoridade ou apenas na montagem? Estou construindo um violão baseado em seus vídeos e esta é minha única dúvida. Posso instalar o braço reto-nivelado ao top? Obrigado e parabéns pelos vídeos. Farei o possível para estar em sua turma aqui em SP
Wagner Venâncio O braço fica nivelado com o tampo mas por causa do angulo do braço na junta fica um vão de 3.5mm no cavalete ao esticar uma regua ao longo do braço até o cavalete.
@@OBrienGuitars Thanks for taking the time to reply Robert. And thanks for all the great content as well. I'd love to come take a class with you, but unless I win the lottery, it's not in the budget as I'm retired, and on a fixed income. I'm saving to take some of the online courses! I live not all that far from you, down in western New Mexico. A day's drive if you can handle 10 hours in the seat... If I ever get up your way I'd love to drop in and say hello...
Hi Robert, on a classical would you still add that angle measurement (the "Skoche" - the top to saddle measurement) to the heel or would you just leave it flat?
Great that you show things slowly and in detail!
Thanks Rob. you da man. I've learned a lot from these vids. Never would've used fish glue without you. It's my favorite glue for guitars. stuff is great and doesn't smell horrible like hide glue
Very smart way to install neck. Using 3 bolts would be better, because it would let neck to be adjustable side to side and up/down.
@ 3:44 "I tighten the screws until I hear a crack......I then I back off the screws about a quarter turn". Really everyone......no comments. That's comedy gold right there people.
Glad you caught that one and thanks for watching.
No trade secret at all. I clearly show this in my videos and in great detail in my online guitar building courses available via my website. I do not know what the exact angle is as I have never measured it. Most builders use an angle that works with the top radius and bridge and saddle height they choose to give them the correct action. For my building sequence, 30 foot radius and approx 10mm bridge height a slight neck angle is all I need to get the set up I look for on my guitars.
@OBrienGuitars Thanks, I guess i'll glue on the large top brace on when i glue on the popsicle brace and soundhole braces
@sirgreggins8824 Glue the braces above the soundhole on a flat surface instead of a radius surface like the braces below the soundhole.
Olá Robert.
Apenas para que eu conclua a montagem do braço, qual a espessura da escala sem trastes e do cavalete sem rastilho?
Obrigado
Wagner Venâncio se for violão de aço a escala fica em mais ou menos 6.5mm e o cavalete em 9mm ou 10mm
do you fix guitars do any kinda work on them
Já vi muitos ensinando mais igual a você nenhum ensina
muito obrigado. abraços de Colorado nos EUA
OBrienGuitars eu que te agradeço pela excelente aula ,já estou escrito ,falo de sapeaçu na Bahia
could you cover how to do a bolt on neck like an electric guitar i want to make an acoustic but with a bolt on neck
I cover an acoustic bolt on neck in my youtube videos. The electric bolt on neck, which is different than the acoustic bolt on neck is covered in detail in my online electric guitar building course with Mike Snider. www.obrienguitars.com/courses
I’ll be honest I’m not a fan of barrel nuts. I’ve seen them crack the neck and nearly pull out. I prefer a threaded nut sert that screws into the neck.
Both are viable methods. Funny that the reason I went to the barrel nut approach is for exactly the same reasons you mentioned about the inserts. haha
@@OBrienGuitars it’s funny the different experiences people have that make them choose one method over another.
I love the way u build..
Like the Aircraft Technology..👍👍👍
good lord that is terrifying.
I built a OOO style steel string acoustic about 25 years ago under the tutelage of luthier Tom Knatt. This was the method we used. In 25 years the neck hasn’t required removal but if it ever does it will be a simple procedure.
Thankfully this info is very well articulated, but either way, this is overwhelming
The fretboard extension is glued to the soundboard. I then level and refret the fretboard on this guitar. I also only use a 30 foot radius on the soundboard.
Love this guy I’ve been building Guitars now for 10 years if it wasn’t for Rob O’Brien I would never be able to get it done. This man turned me into a master Luthier. The best content on the Internet!!!!! Thank you Mr. Robert O’Brien you are the man!!! When people ask me how I learned how to build guitars I tell him I went to school of Robert O’Brien!!
Thank you for the compliment. All the best to you and yours and happy building!
That's awesome
I love this method!! Since I started to make steel string guitars with this method (even Harp
Guitars, with more tension) necks are more stable.
Instead, I prefer to make it all by hand, I trust more in my hand skills than a powertool.
Thanks for the video!
Cheers from Finland 😊
Love how you use "skoche" a lot in you videos! It's a word I rarely hear, but love to hear.
2:07 why not 90° angle? what happen if i just make it 90°?
Salut OBRIEN MERCI pour cette video explicite ,saurait tu m indiquer ou puis je trouver les plan du gabarit pour tenon je souhaiterai en fabriquer un merci d avance Thierry
J'ai des plans disponibles sur mon site web. obrienguitars.com/plans
why would anyone do this its got to cost more considering tools etc
Tiago, (this is my son's name too)
I like a gap of 3.5mm at the saddle location when a straightedge is placed along the neck without the fretboard. For my set up with a fretboard thickness of about 6,5mm and a bridge height if about 10mm this works well. It is true the fretboard extension will have to be pushed down about 1/32 inch to glue to the soundboard. When leveling/radiusing the fretboard this goes away but I still like about 1/64 drop off on the fretboard extension. Hope this helps.
Adoraria ter uma viola feita por você, mas moro no Brasil.
How to bend and thickness of sound boxes side that also need u did well
BR5-49 :)
Hi OBrien! Thanks alot for all you amazing videos. Sooo helpful in my first build. Question: Will the measurements of the gap (2.5mm - 3.5mm) still be the same on a 12 fret parlor guitar? Im thinking that the value should be a bit lower, because of the bridge being further away from the top of the body..? Regards form Denmark!
@sirgreggins8824 Not sure I understand your question. The shoulders of the tenon are not at 90 degrees.
Hi Obrien!
First of all, thank you very much for your videos! Congratulations! They are amazing!
I’m from Brazil and I’m building viola caipira and classic guitar as a hobby, so far! Your videos are helping us very much!
Well, I have two questions about the gap of 3,5 mm of the neck and the bridge.
Shave a bit off the bottom of the tenon. The shoulders of the tenon determine the neck angle not the mortise.
@sirgreggins8824 oops!! I guess that could happen to anyone. Just do the best you can by going through the soundhole. Good luck.
@tyfude Thanks for the compliments. When leveling the fretboard I let the fretboard extension taper off from the neck to body joint about a 64th to a 32nd. BTW, I have a google chat group where we discuss things like this. let me know if you want access.
We are dating ourselves aren't we? haha
@sirgreggins8824 It really doesn't matter what size you use as long as you use a bit and guide bushing that give you the results you want. For what I do I have found that the 5/8 O.D guide bushing and the 1/2 straight cut bit work well.
As always your videos are clear and concise without any distractions. Great teacher!
Thank you Robert!
@johncharnock You are correct. However, cutting in one pass is dangerous and not necessary. I use a guide bushing in the router. This eliminates the need for a bearing on the actual bit.
@johncharnock I use 1/2 inch aluminum tubing and 3/8 inch threaded rod. Use a wingnut and a washer to adjust the spreader. All items are available at your local lutherie supply warehouse.
if it needs to be tapered down because it is going up then you can use a block plane to make sure it tapers down. My experience has been that on my guitars it doesn't need to be tapered cause it already slopes down from the body joint.
@garciaorganization I prefer the bolt on mortise and tenon cause it is easier, no compound angles like a dovetail.
@ROMELUTH Obrigado. Acabei de lançar um curso "online" (via internet) de construção do violão clásico. Vai até meu site para mais informações. Pretendo lançar também um curso via internet para violão de aço mas vai demorar. Também faço aulas particulares na minha oficina em Colorado.
Abraços!
For some that probably is the best option. Others may find great satisfaction in making their own guitar.
I never knew how a bolt on neck was really done .. I always thought they were only Dove tailed . thanks . do you have a series of A to Z in making an acustic Guitar out ?
@garciaorganization Yes it could, but why not just use the traditional Spanish heel?
If I had a gap of about 2.5mm and a fretboard of about 6.5mm, total 9mm. I would make the bridge in the 8.5mm range. This is starting to get on the thin end of the spectrum but a bridge between 8mm and 10mm will work.
No chinguen!es un caso imposible sin los aparatos que se muestran en el vídeo,la construcción de una guitarra acústica!!♦️
@garciaorganization good luck with the build. I have a google group you might find useful. Let me know if you want access.
Yah lama kalo kayak gitu mah
I prefer doing it afterwards. With my set up I am able to cut the M&T and set the neck angle in one step.
If you don't have the router setup you can also do this using a forstner bit in a drill press, setting the depth and width close and cleaning with a sharp chisel. This is easier to do if you put the back on last and use a piece of wood clamped to the drill press table to rest the neck block flatly on it while drilling. You can also drill the bolt holes at the same time and easily place and remove the neck while doing the fitting. Matching the hole positions on the neck and the body becomes easy. Not sure if there is any reason why not to attach the back after the neck fitting has been done, it is sure easier to to attach and remove the bolts with the back off while fitting the neck.
Thanks. I would probably go a bit lower because I would probably use a bridge a bit thinner than I normally use. I would shoot more towards the 2.5mm
Robert, pensa em fazer outra turma aqui no Brasil? Tenho interesse em participar se for o caso. Como consigo mais informações referente aos cursos?
Você disponibiliza o projeto dos gabaritos desse vídeo?
Grato
The fretboard extension on my guitars, and most guitars for that matter, is not flat. It tapers down about a 64th to a 32nd from the 14th fret to the soundhole.
Hi Robert. Considering neck angle, (1:40) you align the bevel so that the plain of the neck leaves a small gap at the top of the sound hole. It has been my understanding that the neck and soundboard angle should equal180 degrees. It would seem, if I leave this gap, then there would be a slight bow in the finger board as it transitions from the neck to the sound board rather than being flat. If you have the time, any clarification would be excellent! I have truly enjoyed your tutorials. Thanks!
another excellent instructional video (with a little humor throw in for good measure!) I have a problem; I have a neck that was cut to use wood dowel pins. I am thinking to align the neck and body (without plates installed), drill a pilot hole to locate the holes on the neck and install brass inserts in the heel then screw in from the body...do you think this is structural sound?...this is for a uku. Thanks!
Threaded inserts will work fine on a uke. Some folks only use one.
@@OBrienGuitars Thanks so much for the reply! I really appreciate that you reach out and reply...(so many don't).
@@liloukulele5238 My pleasure. Happy Building!
@@OBrienGuitars Thank you Sir! Along with being a master luthier, teacher; you are a gentleman.
When you mark the angle at the 14th fret you say "notice how it is not a 90 degree angle." Does that mean that when you route the tenon the heel should sit on the guitar matching that slight angle slight angle or should that be 90 degrees?
So i got ahead of myself> Rookie mistake= i don't have an access hole to the truss rod and i have the body glued up. any suggestions on how to do that with the body closed?
@johncharnock I use a 1/2 inch straight cut bit with a 17/32 I.D. guide bushing.
Sure,
Just rout the cavity for the neck and then instead of gluing the neck on bolt it on.
I have no plans for making this jig. I made mine by trial and error years ago and have fine tuned it over the years.
I use a standard size neck block with the grain running with the grain of the sides.
7:50 is it me or does that bolt look too short? After all it has to pass through the thickness of the neckblock?
They are just long enough to get the job done.
@@OBrienGuitars Apparently!
OK thanks
1 - Why leave this difference? How would it help?
2 - When glue the fingerboard on the neck, would have a gap between the fingerboard and the body on the part before the soundboard hole, correct? How to solve this gap?
Thank you very much!
Best regards,
Tiago
Hi Robbie,
I was just wondering how the neck joint accomodates the tenon, given that it's angled away slightly. Do you make the mortise slightly oversized (or do you rout that angle into the mortise) or do you shave a bit off the bottom of the tenon?
hi i have a epiphone aj-100 im wanting to put a neck off of a epiphone hummingbird can you do that ive sanded down the aj-100 just something to do do you think the neck will work
Hi, i have a question i was wondering if you could help me with, im making a replica Gibson Firebird so i bought some plans for it, however these plans are for a set neck and for financial reasons i wanted to build a bolt on neck, is there a way i can convert these plans so that i can still build a bolt on necked guitar?
first of all thx for all the great info. How do you solve the space underneath the fretboardextension? As you show due to the angle of the neck you will have a slight gap underneath this extension. Most brands will have the extension glued directly on the top though.
Olá, sou Brasileiro e luthier apreciei muito seu video gostaria de ter a oportunidade de ter um curso com voce.
Abraços.
Why do you use the 5/8" guide bushing instead of a 1/2"? I watched a video from jsimpson guitars, and he used 1/2" on both, making it basically a flush cut. Just curious why the 5/8".
hi! question about neck angle. in your video you had a neck without a fingerboard and you said if you put a straightedge on it it should sit right on the bridge. how to determine a proper neck angle on a already built guitar?
I was talking about like what fender has done recently with their shredding acoustic it has an electric guitar neck but it's acoustic
@OBrienGuitars Thanks for your time and quick response! This helps me understand the process. I have gleaned much from your instruction. I am currently on this step of my first build. Your clarity and humor have helped me persevere! To clarify, I have one of the pre-slotted and radius fingerboards from LMI. I'll glue it with the drop off at the the transition, then level it with a sanding stick after the neck is set and glued as you mentioned (without defeating the radius)? Thanks for your help.
very important if you want the action to be right.
Dear O'BrianGuitar, I guess your angling of the tenon must have something to do with the desired string hight over the fret board. Cumpiano & Natelson does not seem to angle their tenon ("Guitarmaking - tradition & technology"). The StewMac jig loosely suggests an angle of 1-1/2 to 2 degrees. I suspect your precise angling of the tenon is a trade secret. I really appreciate, that you share it with us. Thank you. Yet, could you elaborate on what the point of the angled tenon is, please sir?
Question: Since the bolts have relatively little bearing area on the neck block compared to the glued up area on a set neck, does the neck block need to be thicker or wider or have specific grain orientation to maintain strength in this joint?
patented jig lol ? They have been making jugs like that for centuries.
I guess it would work but my question is why bother?
Obrien, your soon has a beautiful name! rs. Thank you so much! It really helps. It was exactly what I was thinking. Again, congratulations for your job and attention! You are helping to develop the luthier art at a global level. I knew that you have been in Brazil, but I did not have opportunity to attend the course, do you have perspective to come back for a new course? One last question, you use the same thickness in the beginning and in the end of the fingerboard (6.5 mm). Um grande abraço
when gluing on the fretboard extention how do we make sure its flat, since the neck angles back and is not 90 degrees?
O Robert e o cara, passei uma semana com ele em Araguari MG na oficina do Luciano Borges, quanta saudade!!!!
I nearly cried laughing, when he said his jigg was patented lol What a joke! ahahahaha
Any suggestions on how to avoid a bump in the soundboard where the fretboard extention glues on?
@sirgreggins8824 thanks. I wasn't sure if the was to leave some extra material for fine tuning.
I have never had to do this repair.
What did you do with the truss rod
it gets installed as well by extending the truss rod slot into the block and soundboard.
Sounds like bill Clinton narrating lol great video very Informative
Magnificent neck coupling system!
so use a different type of joint.
Really appreciate your wonderful videos! Does the 2.5mm-3.5mm at saddle location change with differant size body? I am building a smaller OOO model and the gap above the soundhole is about 3 times bigger than the one on your video. I use a 25' radius on top.
Thanks for the help.
The gap will depend on the radius you use as well as the bridge thickness and saddle height you want. The measurement I mention is what I use on my guitars.
Olá Robert!
Porque você instala o braço desnivelado em relação ao top?
Esses 2,5 ou 3,5mm influenciam na sonoridade ou apenas na montagem?
Estou construindo um violão baseado em seus vídeos e esta é minha única dúvida.
Posso instalar o braço reto-nivelado ao top?
Obrigado e parabéns pelos vídeos. Farei o possível para estar em sua turma aqui em SP
Wagner Venâncio O braço fica nivelado com o tampo mas por causa do angulo do braço na junta fica um vão de 3.5mm no cavalete ao esticar uma regua ao longo do braço até o cavalete.
Robert - do you sell plans for the tenon jig? I'd like to build one...
Yes, you can find them on the lutherie Academy website. - lutherieacademy.com/plans
@@OBrienGuitars Thank you. I took a quick look, it's the "neck angle jig" that is for cutting the tenon, correct? I'll be buying a set soon...
@@mikehasson6146 That is correct.
@@OBrienGuitars Thanks for taking the time to reply Robert. And thanks for all the great content as well. I'd love to come take a class with you, but unless I win the lottery, it's not in the budget as I'm retired, and on a fixed income. I'm saving to take some of the online courses! I live not all that far from you, down in western New Mexico. A day's drive if you can handle 10 hours in the seat... If I ever get up your way I'd love to drop in and say hello...
@@mikehasson6146 Please do drop in for a cup of Brazilian coffee if you are ever in my neck of the woods.
Great video I sent it to some friends who want to built guitars with this way.
I caught the reference to BR-549. Where do I claim my prize?
Yes I do.
I'm doing my first mortise and tenon neck and this was super helpful, thanks.
Do you recommend a block plane to do this?
Thanks for you answer. How thin would you make the bridge? Thanks again!
How important is it to angle the neck?
Hi Robert, on a classical would you still add that angle measurement (the "Skoche" - the top to saddle measurement) to the heel or would you just leave it flat?
I leave the saddle slot straight on my classical guitars.
great video. thanks