Good morning Andy, I have used metallic gold craft acrylic paint to renumber the stitch length regulating face plate. Just paint a little over the numbers and slots and gently wipe off the excess and wallah renumbered plate. Oh I almost forgot to say Thank you for another great Video!
Thanks for the nice tip. I'll pin your comment up top. Any particular thing used to "gently wipe off the excess"? Hope you enjoyed the video. Take care.
Thank you, Andy. Excellent video. I now understand how the stitch/feed regulators work and how to reduce the stiffness of the stitch regulator handle. My mother bought a 15-91 new in 1949. I learned to sew on it when I was a kid and I inherited the machine in the 1980s. Have been putting many miles on it since and love the machine. It will get passed down in my family when the time comes. Thanks so much for helping us service these great machines.
Thanks for the uplifting comment, Linda. 🙏 I love hearing of family-owned machines. It certainly has more lifetimes to go with a bit of care. This was the only 15-91 I worked on and I found it fascinating. It's built more like an industrial machine, IMO, than a household model. Here is the complete Playlist for the model: ua-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKJftyGwzdDiWa9R6HFEACJo.html I had started to record about cleaning and rewiring the motor but became too ill to complete it. Luckily for all of us, there are some very good videos for doing that. May you always sew in happiness, and have a great New Year 2024
Thank you so much! First time taking my new 201-2 apart and exploring. I got the lever off and for the life of me could not get it back on the block! I came across your video and voila! I did it! Thank you again!
I just love your videos! They are informative, straight forward and thoughtful. But my favorite part is when you give a little chuckle about something you've said, or a when you laugh at your own joke. Thank you.
Thanks very much for watching my channel. I learned a long time ago to laugh at my mistakes, hehe. I do not edit out most of my mistakes in the videos so folks can see "stuff happens" and it's no big deal. Besides, my wife laughs at... er... with me all the time. Thanks for the smile this evening, and take care.
Hello Andy, Well I watched this video on the feed regulator of 15-19 and at last BING! a light in the dark! As usual you step by step monolog on what where and how help me solve my binding issue on my 457 stylist. And yahoo, she purrs along like her old pre top gear repair! Thank you so much, beyond words! I'll see you around on you tube t.v. as they show what I research and related subjects. Have as happy a day as I am!
Andy, what a great instructional video on the 15-91, Ike. I just discovered your channel yesterday and appreciate what you have created. Us old guys can fix almost anything. Thanks you so much. Keep it up!
Hello Andy, It was accidentally that I saw one of your videos on UA-cam, and I am glad that happened. Because of the way you demonstrate, and ability to explain and teach I found interest, and I am happy I did, thank you. Reza
I am fortunate that you did find my channel and watch the video. I appreciate having you as a viewer and maybe you'll watch more of my nearly 600 videos. Thanks for taking the time to leave me. Such a nice comment and take care
You are too aged your hands are shivering. Even though you are trying to teach the technique to others it's a wonderful live long your service to others Thanks a lot
The shaking of my hands and fingers is called Essential Tremors. I can not control it and there is no cure. Sometimes it is worse and sometimes not too bad. It is a neurological disorder and people can read about it here if interested: www.mayoclinic.org/diseases-conditions/essential-tremor/symptoms-causes/syc-20350534#:~:text=Essential%20tremor%20is%20a%20nervous,a%20glass%20or%20tying%20shoelaces. I know it can be distracting to watch and I thank everyone for their patience and always hope the information I share is worth it for my viewers. I try to make my videos on days when the shaking is not too bad, but sometimes during the moment, it can just start up. It is frustrating, but only at that time. Otherwise, I don't think about it very much. I appreciate your kind comments 🙏and I thank you for continuing to watch my channel. Peace, and take care.
Hi Andy. Question regarding the slide block: As you showed, the slide block protrusion (minute 17:00) goes up against the feed forked connection in this machine. In my other machines (403A, 404, 401A) that I have restored, I put the protrusion the other way, into the slide. I panicked, thinking I have to go back to those machines and flip those block slides over, so the protrusions sit against the feed forked connection. Then I rewatched your videos on the 404 and 403A, and you also put the protrusions in these machines into the slide. Will you please clarify this issue for me? Why would Singer flip that slide block over in its more modern machines? Thank you for this video. You spend much time storyboarding, researching, filming, and editing making these videos. I enormously appreciate your work.
Hi, Carole. Thanks for watching the video and asking such a well-worded question. In this video, I put the slide block on in the position I found it when I first removed it. I have parts manuals with pictures and parts numbers for all the models you mention, but none of them are clear as to the positioning of the protrusions. They are not mentioned in any of the Service or Adjusters Manuals as far as positioning. Offhand I'd say if something is incorrect, it is this video. I went today to my storeroom and retrieved an old model 404 I bought years ago for parts. It was lightly used but had been dropped hard and the bed broke so it was cheap and I've used several parts from it. As near as I can tell the feed regulator indicator plate had never been off the machine. When I removed it and looked in at the slide block, the protrusion is clearly facing INTO the regulator and AWAY FROM the Feed Forked Connection. When I worked on my first slant needle, a model 301, I had no documents so I took pictures of everything, especially before I removed parts, so I knew how it went back. It's my belief that how you placed the slide blocks on your slant machines is correct. It's also my belief that how I found the slide block on this 15-91 MAY (might) be wrong, but that's how I found it. I also can tell someone has worked on various parts of this machine by the look of several slightly damaged screws, a missing screw, three missing oil wicks (so far), and so forth. However, as this is the first and only 15-91 I've ever had my hands on I'm going to take a wait-and-see attitude towards the slide block. I can say I have reinstalled it to make other videos and it seems to work normally, but who knows in the long run, and I have not sewn anything yet. I assume you don't have a 15-91 or you would have looked at yours already. If/when you or I can hear from another owner as to what they find I'm OK leaving IKE as shown in the video. If you happen to belong to any online sewing groups and ask members about their machine and get a credible answer please let us know. Take care and thanks again for raising an important question.
Thank you for your detailed answer, and for checking your parts 404. I’m happy to read that putting a part back how one finds it is a valid and operative method. I am sure you assembled Ike correctly. I shoulda mentioned, I am following your tutorials with my own 15-91 (A Roger find $50 at a flea market). And, yes, my slide block was in the position as you found Ike’s, with the protrusion against the feed forked connection. I have wondered how slide blocks go in since I first started watching and working on my 457 with your videos-the protrusion goes in the slide with the 457 (Same goes for the 328, 337, 347). So I thought this was the way for all Singers with these parts. But not so for the 15-91! If one puts the slide bar with the protrusion in the slide in the 15-91, the slide bar sits maybe 1/8” above the slide edges itself, because the protrusion rubs on the bottom of the slide. So I’m sure the slide bar goes the way you put it in Ike-it fits nice and snug and sits exactly deep into the slide bar. Curiously, with all my other machines, the slide bars actually do not touch the bottom of the slide, no matter which way you put the slide bar; the slide is kind of curved at the bottom, so no matter which way you put in the slide bar, it doesn’t touch the bottom and is the same height above the edges of the slide. Well, now I’ve learned to take some pictures before removing parts, even though I have your videos to double check!
@@carolemagnusson5044 You would think at my age I would know better than to assume, haha. I'm happy you have a 15-91 (at a great price thanks to Roger, the Prince of Procurement ⭐) and you verified the position of the slide block. That makes two for two machines. Normally, putting a part back the way you found it is valid, but not always. Think of it like "trust but verify". There are a few times the part was wrong to begin with. Maybe a pressure washer had been reversed, or the parts on a 500A bobbin winder were out of position. Sometimes it is very obvious b/c it does not function properly. Anyway, as with this slide block, I wondered why I found it as I did, but accepted it. Maybe the hinge stud through the Feed Forked Connection on the 15091 is a little different; whatever. After assembly, it worked just fine so I left it. I feel more confident now that your machine is set up the same way, and thanks for letting me know. 🙏
Right you are, Jo. A Belleville washer, also known as a coned-disc spring, conical spring washer, disc spring, Belleville spring or cupped spring washer as per Wikipedia; en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Belleville_washer Other than that, how did you like the video?
Started working on a rusted 15-91 and can't get the little screws on the regulator plate to release. This is the second day I've use penetrative oil and nothing..... any suggestions? Your videos are SO informative! Thank you so much!!!
This can happen for sure, and sadly those little screws are a fairly soft metal and it's easy to strip the slot out on them. I have had pretty good luck with heat. Blowing hot air on it with a hair dryer for several minutes. Might try that. Also, you can try tapping on the screwdriver with brisk sharp taps while trying to turn it at the same time, that shock effect can often break a screw free. Finally, you mentioned rust and if you feel that there is rust on those screws or on the back of them, you can try a drop of rust remover on the screws but be cautious and read the directions of your rest remover to be sure it will not harm paint because many of them do. That's all I can think of tonight and good luck!.
@@SewPerky well your timing was perfect as I was just checking one last time before shutting down my computer. I hope my suggestions can help you and thanks for keeping that machine in service
Hi Andy I really love your videos and I always reccommend them to people. I am wondering about matching the forward and reverse stitch. My machine makes a reverse stitch that is about 1.5 times longer than the forward stitch. Is there a way to adjust it so they are even? thank you for all of your videos
Wow, what a question! 👀 I've been thinking about this on and off all day, haha. 🤕 I've never had the problem and I've been trying to imagine what could cause this. All I can think of is the feed dog adjustment for positioning length-wise in the needle plate. The feed regulator does set how far the dog moves, and in what direction, but it is the dog itself that moves the fabric. The dog raises up near the front of the needle plate opening, travels towards the back, and goes down. It is an ** elliptical ** movement. When the regulator is placed in reverse the dog moves the opposite, that is from back to front, to pull the fabric towards you. If the dog is adjusted poorly it may be too near the front or back. As it travels in its elliptical path it may travel forward too far before it drops below the needle plate, thus moving the fabric farther during reverse sewing. Look, I'm flying by the seat of my pants here, 🩳but it's the only thing I can think of. 🤷♂️ I have a video about the feed dog that you could look at and see what you think. It's rather long, but the part about adjusting the dog lengthwise starts at about 59:40 ua-cam.com/video/JAvpcgsUY-o/v-deo.html As you commented on this video for model 15-91 I assume that is what you have. Keep in mind I could be far off the mark on this, OK? 🎯 Good luck, and thanks so much for watching my channel.
@@andytubesewing1953 hi Andy thanks for your response it helped me to pin point the problem. I am working on a 15 clone that has similar functions. I found that the slide is not exactly accurate. The part that stops the stitch size that you choose. It favors reverse ever so slightly, and since it is such a small range of movement, it causes the difference in stitches. It is easy to just eyeball it. Thanks again, I do have a bunch of singer screws if you still need that part.
It's not really designed for that, but a small number of people have said they removed the indicator plate and that allowed a tiny bit more travel downward. The problem is that the feed dog, which is what really controls the stitch length by how far it moves the fabric during needle strokes) may hit either the body in the back or the hook in front. I've never done it myself but have never had the need for a stitch that long.
No, not at all. We are just removing parts for cleaning or replacing or maybe to paint the gold numbers back on. Nothing in the video will change how the regulator system works, except maybe oiling it can make it move easier and smoother. There ARE adjustments that CAN be made to the feed dog at the other end of the machine, like to set the proper height and the position in the needle plate, but those changes are made under the machine. A really good question ⭐ and thanks for asking it.
Good morning Andy, I have used metallic gold craft acrylic paint to renumber the stitch length regulating face plate. Just paint a little over the numbers and slots and gently wipe off the excess and wallah renumbered plate. Oh I almost forgot to say Thank you for another great Video!
Thanks for sharing gold paint trick!
@@sherleneabrigo9594 Most welcome.
Thanks for the nice tip. I'll pin your comment up top. Any particular thing used to "gently wipe off the excess"? Hope you enjoyed the video. Take care.
@@andytubesewing1953 I use small pieces of cut up T shirts and dampen then up just a little to help get the excess paint off before it starts drying
@@roosterwilson9371 Yes, sir! That's what I'm asking about. Thanks for getting back to me with this info. 👍
Thank you, Andy. Excellent video. I now understand how the stitch/feed regulators work and how to reduce the stiffness of the stitch regulator handle. My mother bought a 15-91 new in 1949. I learned to sew on it when I was a kid and I inherited the machine in the 1980s. Have been putting many miles on it since and love the machine. It will get passed down in my family when the time comes.
Thanks so much for helping us service these great machines.
Thanks for the uplifting comment, Linda. 🙏 I love hearing of family-owned machines. It certainly has more lifetimes to go with a bit of care. This was the only 15-91 I worked on and I found it fascinating. It's built more like an industrial machine, IMO, than a household model. Here is the complete Playlist for the model: ua-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKJftyGwzdDiWa9R6HFEACJo.html I had started to record about cleaning and rewiring the motor but became too ill to complete it. Luckily for all of us, there are some very good videos for doing that. May you always sew in happiness, and have a great New Year 2024
Thank you so much! First time taking my new 201-2 apart and exploring. I got the lever off and for the life of me could not get it back on the block! I came across your video and voila! I did it! Thank you again!
I'm glad you found the video. Thank you I appreciate your comment. Happy sewing.
I just love your videos! They are informative, straight forward and thoughtful. But my favorite part is when you give a little chuckle about something you've said, or a when you laugh at your own joke. Thank you.
Thanks very much for watching my channel. I learned a long time ago to laugh at my mistakes, hehe. I do not edit out most of my mistakes in the videos so folks can see "stuff happens" and it's no big deal. Besides, my wife laughs at... er... with me all the time.
Thanks for the smile this evening, and take care.
Thank you Mr. Andy. I needed this video as I took it apart and something is not lined up right. Got it now. Much appreciated. Stay well.
Oh great! I'm glad you got it worked out and I'm happy you found the video. Thanks for the nice comment!🙏
Hello Andy,
Well I watched this video on the feed regulator of 15-19 and at last BING! a light in the dark!
As usual you step by step monolog on what where and how help me solve my binding issue on my 457 stylist. And yahoo, she purrs along like her old pre top gear repair! Thank you so much, beyond words!
I'll see you around on you tube t.v. as they show what I research and related subjects. Have as happy a day as I am!
I'm very happy to read your comment. Your determination finally paid off! Congratulations, and do hope to hear from you again. Happy sewing.
I have been looking for this! Thank you for making this video! Now hoping i can fix my machine!
Yes, you are welcome. I'm glad you found the video and hope it works you through fixing the problem. Thanks for the nice comment and good luck!
Andy, what a great instructional video on the 15-91, Ike. I just discovered your channel yesterday and appreciate what you have created. Us old guys can fix almost anything. Thanks you so much. Keep it up!
Welcome aboard!
Hello Andy,
It was accidentally that I saw one of your videos on UA-cam, and I am glad that happened. Because of the way you demonstrate, and ability to explain and teach I found interest, and I am happy I did, thank you.
Reza
I am fortunate that you did find my channel and watch the video. I appreciate having you as a viewer and maybe you'll watch more of my nearly 600 videos. Thanks for taking the time to leave me. Such a nice comment and take care
You are too aged your hands are shivering. Even though you are trying to teach the technique to others it's a wonderful live long your service to others Thanks a lot
The shaking of my hands and fingers is called Essential Tremors. I can not control it and there is no cure. Sometimes it is worse and sometimes not too bad. It is a neurological disorder and people can read about it here if interested: www.mayoclinic.org/diseases-conditions/essential-tremor/symptoms-causes/syc-20350534#:~:text=Essential%20tremor%20is%20a%20nervous,a%20glass%20or%20tying%20shoelaces.
I know it can be distracting to watch and I thank everyone for their patience and always hope the information I share is worth it for my viewers. I try to make my videos on days when the shaking is not too bad, but sometimes during the moment, it can just start up. It is frustrating, but only at that time. Otherwise, I don't think about it very much. I appreciate your kind comments 🙏and I thank you for continuing to watch my channel. Peace, and take care.
I always learn so much from you.
That's a good thing, right? 😀 Thanks for watching and for the kind comment. Take care.
Hi Andy. Question regarding the slide block: As you showed, the slide block protrusion (minute 17:00) goes up against the feed forked connection in this machine. In my other machines (403A, 404, 401A) that I have restored, I put the protrusion the other way, into the slide. I panicked, thinking I have to go back to those machines and flip those block slides over, so the protrusions sit against the feed forked connection. Then I rewatched your videos on the 404 and 403A, and you also put the protrusions in these machines into the slide. Will you please clarify this issue for me? Why would Singer flip that slide block over in its more modern machines? Thank you for this video. You spend much time storyboarding, researching, filming, and editing making these videos. I enormously appreciate your work.
Hi, Carole. Thanks for watching the video and asking such a well-worded question. In this video, I put the slide block on in the position I found it when I first removed it. I have parts manuals with pictures and parts numbers for all the models you mention, but none of them are clear as to the positioning of the protrusions. They are not mentioned in any of the Service or Adjusters Manuals as far as positioning. Offhand I'd say if something is incorrect, it is this video. I went today to my storeroom and retrieved an old model 404 I bought years ago for parts. It was lightly used but had been dropped hard and the bed broke so it was cheap and I've used several parts from it. As near as I can tell the feed regulator indicator plate had never been off the machine. When I removed it and looked in at the slide block, the protrusion is clearly facing INTO the regulator and AWAY FROM the Feed Forked Connection. When I worked on my first slant needle, a model 301, I had no documents so I took pictures of everything, especially before I removed parts, so I knew how it went back. It's my belief that how you placed the slide blocks on your slant machines is correct. It's also my belief that how I found the slide block on this 15-91 MAY (might) be wrong, but that's how I found it. I also can tell someone has worked on various parts of this machine by the look of several slightly damaged screws, a missing screw, three missing oil wicks (so far), and so forth. However, as this is the first and only 15-91 I've ever had my hands on I'm going to take a wait-and-see attitude towards the slide block. I can say I have reinstalled it to make other videos and it seems to work normally, but who knows in the long run, and I have not sewn anything yet. I assume you don't have a 15-91 or you would have looked at yours already. If/when you or I can hear from another owner as to what they find I'm OK leaving IKE as shown in the video. If you happen to belong to any online sewing groups and ask members about their machine and get a credible answer please let us know. Take care and thanks again for raising an important question.
Thank you for your detailed answer, and for checking your parts 404. I’m happy to read that putting a part back how one finds it is a valid and operative method. I am sure you assembled Ike correctly. I shoulda mentioned, I am following your tutorials with my own 15-91 (A Roger find $50 at a flea market). And, yes, my slide block was in the position as you found Ike’s, with the protrusion against the feed forked connection. I have wondered how slide blocks go in since I first started watching and working on my 457 with your videos-the protrusion goes in the slide with the 457 (Same goes for the 328, 337, 347). So I thought this was the way for all Singers with these parts. But not so for the 15-91! If one puts the slide bar with the protrusion in the slide in the 15-91, the slide bar sits maybe 1/8” above the slide edges itself, because the protrusion rubs on the bottom of the slide. So I’m sure the slide bar goes the way you put it in Ike-it fits nice and snug and sits exactly deep into the slide bar. Curiously, with all my other machines, the slide bars actually do not touch the bottom of the slide, no matter which way you put the slide bar; the slide is kind of curved at the bottom, so no matter which way you put in the slide bar, it doesn’t touch the bottom and is the same height above the edges of the slide. Well, now I’ve learned to take some pictures before removing parts, even though I have your videos to double check!
@@carolemagnusson5044 You would think at my age I would know better than to assume, haha. I'm happy you have a 15-91 (at a great price thanks to Roger, the Prince of Procurement ⭐) and you verified the position of the slide block. That makes two for two machines. Normally, putting a part back the way you found it is valid, but not always. Think of it like "trust but verify". There are a few times the part was wrong to begin with. Maybe a pressure washer had been reversed, or the parts on a 500A bobbin winder were out of position. Sometimes it is very obvious b/c it does not function properly. Anyway, as with this slide block, I wondered why I found it as I did, but accepted it. Maybe the hinge stud through the Feed Forked Connection on the 15091 is a little different; whatever. After assembly, it worked just fine so I left it. I feel more confident now that your machine is set up the same way, and thanks for letting me know. 🙏
That's called a spring washer or a Belleville washer.
Right you are, Jo. A Belleville washer, also known as a coned-disc spring, conical spring washer, disc spring, Belleville spring or cupped spring washer as per Wikipedia; en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Belleville_washer
Other than that, how did you like the video?
Started working on a rusted 15-91 and can't get the little screws on the regulator plate to release. This is the second day I've use penetrative oil and nothing..... any suggestions? Your videos are SO informative! Thank you so much!!!
This can happen for sure, and sadly those little screws are a fairly soft metal and it's easy to strip the slot out on them. I have had pretty good luck with heat. Blowing hot air on it with a hair dryer for several minutes. Might try that. Also, you can try tapping on the screwdriver with brisk sharp taps while trying to turn it at the same time, that shock effect can often break a screw free. Finally, you mentioned rust and if you feel that there is rust on those screws or on the back of them, you can try a drop of rust remover on the screws but be cautious and read the directions of your rest remover to be sure it will not harm paint because many of them do. That's all I can think of tonight and good luck!.
@@andytubesewing1953 thank you for the speedy reply!
@@SewPerky well your timing was perfect as I was just checking one last time before shutting down my computer. I hope my suggestions can help you and thanks for keeping that machine in service
Hi Andy I really love your videos and I always reccommend them to people. I am wondering about matching the forward and reverse stitch. My machine makes a reverse stitch that is about 1.5 times longer than the forward stitch. Is there a way to adjust it so they are even?
thank you for all of your videos
Wow, what a question! 👀 I've been thinking about this on and off all day, haha. 🤕 I've never had the problem and I've been trying to imagine what could cause this. All I can think of is the feed dog adjustment for positioning length-wise in the needle plate. The feed regulator does set how far the dog moves, and in what direction, but it is the dog itself that moves the fabric. The dog raises up near the front of the needle plate opening, travels towards the back, and goes down. It is an ** elliptical ** movement. When the regulator is placed in reverse the dog moves the opposite, that is from back to front, to pull the fabric towards you. If the dog is adjusted poorly it may be too near the front or back. As it travels in its elliptical path it may travel forward too far before it drops below the needle plate, thus moving the fabric farther during reverse sewing. Look, I'm flying by the seat of my pants here, 🩳but it's the only thing I can think of. 🤷♂️ I have a video about the feed dog that you could look at and see what you think. It's rather long, but the part about adjusting the dog lengthwise starts at about 59:40 ua-cam.com/video/JAvpcgsUY-o/v-deo.html As you commented on this video for model 15-91 I assume that is what you have. Keep in mind I could be far off the mark on this, OK? 🎯 Good luck, and thanks so much for watching my channel.
@@andytubesewing1953 hi Andy thanks for your response it helped me to pin point the problem. I am working on a 15 clone that has similar functions. I found that the slide is not exactly accurate. The part that stops the stitch size that you choose. It favors reverse ever so slightly, and since it is such a small range of movement, it causes the difference in stitches. It is easy to just eyeball it. Thanks again, I do have a bunch of singer screws if you still need that part.
@@shopooakgood9188 sure. A clone? OK then I'm glad if you found a solution. 👍
How do I readjust or fix my 15-91 to make 5 stitches per inch for sewing vinyl???
It's not really designed for that, but a small number of people have said they removed the indicator plate and that allowed a tiny bit more travel downward. The problem is that the feed dog, which is what really controls the stitch length by how far it moves the fabric during needle strokes) may hit either the body in the back or the hook in front. I've never done it myself but have never had the need for a stitch that long.
Would someone need to adjust the machine, after doing this or?
No, not at all. We are just removing parts for cleaning or replacing or maybe to paint the gold numbers back on. Nothing in the video will change how the regulator system works, except maybe oiling it can make it move easier and smoother. There ARE adjustments that CAN be made to the feed dog at the other end of the machine, like to set the proper height and the position in the needle plate, but those changes are made under the machine. A really good question ⭐ and thanks for asking it.