For anyone that looks at this and is on the fence about it, let me tell you this: I just bought the instructions for this to start working on this week, and I was hesitant too. But after even a glance at the instructions, I can tell you it's what you want. It's exactly what I need, nothing more, nothing less.
$4.99 is a steal for this. You are truly an artist and I shall be buying this template very soon! Seeing the finished product sent shivers down my spine, you have inspired me. I think I'll finally make that set of armor I've always wanted to make.
I don't use a forge, or heat, or use complicated processes. I use mostly ordinary hand tools that can be found in almost any garage. Doing this is not measured with skill level; it is measured by your dedication to the project. ANYONE can do this, they just need to put the time in. Some will take longer than others (I take a lot longer than most, by the way)
Hi David, beautiful work. Never thought about putting my panel tools to this type of work before, but you make this look easy. Thanks for the tutorials.
I second the idea for an armored boot! You do amazing work, especially for someone who just "experiments in their garage". I look forward to seeing what else you have in store!
Thank you! I have a few tutorials I am putting together now. I hope to have the next one up soon...and I am looking into boots and helmets. Get a lot of requests for both
20 gauge stainless. You can also use 22 gauge stainless if you like. If you use regular steel, I suggest 20ga for the fingers and 18ga for the rest. The nails are ordinary roofing nails. They are not soft...they just deform easily when hit over and over with a hammer.
UA-cam has apparently made some STUPID changes, making it very difficult for me to find and answer your comments. I am trying to figure things out so please be patient.
it's totally feasible and pretty fun too. And when it's all finished and you can hold the thing in your hands...it's quite gratifying. I highly suggest attempting it.
I suggest leaving things a little more loose so you can move your hand more freely. If you are using leather, it will stretch and bend instead of tearing like paper. For length, I attached the end piece first, thought the metal, leather strip, and glove. Then place the last piece (near the knuckles) on, and get a feel for how much spacing you need. Mark the leather strip for each piece, and then rivet the fingerplates to the leather strip
The "ghost" is a reflection. Notice how the light source is coming from in upper left front and the camera is viewing from the lower right front - exactly the path light would reflect. Also notice the glare from the upper left side of the safety glasses getting brighter as he pushed them up the bridge of his nose. Also notice that the movement of the "ghost" up and to the right corresponds to the exact movement of the safety glasses up and to the right. The room is dusty, and the lens probably has faint amounts of dust that are invisible most of the time, but are visible when illuminated at the right angle - like dust in a sun beam through a window. The perception that the dust reflection looks like a face is a case of pareidolia.
it depends on where they end up exactly. The only place that it might bother you is if a rivet ends up right at your fingernail. The lining inside the glove will help to hide the rivet some, but if a riven still bothers you, you can just get some very thin cotton gloves like they use in museums, etc and slip them on beforehand, or sew them into the actual leather glove after riveting.
ATTENTION! If you have questions for me to answer, please comment on the actual UA-cam page of the video. For some reason when you comment on my videos that are shared on Google+, I am unable to answer.
As long as your printer settings are set to do so, yes, it will print out at actual size. There is a "1 inch" mark on the template. Print it out and measure that mark. If it's 1 inch, you're good to go.
I get my sheet metal from Ebay from a company called Shapiro Metals. I think their seller name is ssshapirometal. I paid about $20 plus shipping for the stainless steel (20ga, but you can use as thin as 22ga if stainless). Regular steel is much softer so you must use 18ga, 20ga for the fingerplates. Gloves were $13. Thinsulate brand from Walmart. Brass was about $20.
Ted Burke Hi Ted... no idea why, but it will not allow me to reply to your comments on my videos. The cost of making a gauntlet will depend on what metal you choose, and how thick it is. For example, My Iron Man gauntlet is about $20 worth of 22ga stainless steel, and $19 gloves. For comparison, my Version 1 gauntlet is 18ga brass, and cost about $60 for the metal and $25 for the gloves.
+David Guyton How much would it cost to have thick gage gauntlet made, i really like the glove design onf this one. maybe a bit more modern? PM me or reply here. thanks dude!!!
The knuckleplate is wider because it needs to overlap the had parts. This means the piece has to be a little larger overall, so that it not only overlaps, but has enough of a gap between the pieces to allow good articulation. I suggest assembling in paper and making any adjustments you feel you need to make before committing to metal. Just keep in mind that you want these parts to fit together somewhat loosely, not too tight
Yes just flip the template pieces over and trace them that way. Just do the exact same thing for the right one that you did for the left, just mirrored.
You can find an okay anvil for small projects for less than $100. I go mine from Princess Auto and I've been making trinkets like miniature swords as gifts and whatnot.
Thats so cool! It's has something surrealist to see all these plates moving together so nicely. At first, as it's all metal, you'd expect it to be an animatronic...but then you see it's the fluid moves of a real human's hand. Amazing!
I bought the stainless for $20, and the brass for $20 (Ebay). Gloves were $13 from Walmart. You'll have to shop around for prices for the tools you will need. See my DIY Armoring Tools video for what I used.
It depends on the metal you use, and the thickness of the metal. If you are making it as a wearable costume piece that you plan to have on for a few hours, I suggest 20 or 22 gauge stainless...maybe as thin as 24ga. This won't be "battle ready" armor but it'll be tough enough, and weigh, I dunno, 2 lbs or so. Maybe a little more
You can use whatever thickness you want. If using stainless, I suggest 20 or even 22 gauge (higher number, thinner metal) Anything thicker than that will be VERY hard to cut with hand tools. Regular steel, brass...those can be up to 18ga, and I would not use 22ga in those metals. As far as dimensions, the template prints out to 4 or 5 pages. You will need about that large of a piece of sheet metal for each gauntlet you want to make. I get mine pretty cheap from ssshapirometal on Ebay
No. Light hammering is all I used. This will actually serve to strengthen the metal a little up to a point. Heat treating isn't necessary at all, and would be a tremendous added chore.
I can't thank you enough, this is matching my Halloween costume perfectly! I started a few months ago to make sure it comes out nice, and it's now done, definitely worth the money and work, thank you!!
Yes, but I suggest getting some "bullnose" snips, or sometimes they are called "bulldog" snips. They are able to cut up to 18ga, although 20 and 22 were not terribly easy to cut. 18 would be a real chore. Other snips can work too, but cutting this stuff out is not fun. Once you get the pieces cut, it's all easy work
Yes, for this gauntlet and also the version 1 gauntlet, articulation is excellent. The Iron Man gauntlet is not quite as good because it has metal plates on the palm of the hand, which limits articulation.
I designed this one to be a little easier than the others, so it's a good one for your first project. Until you get comfortable, steer clear of the Iron Man one haha. As far as other armor I am doing...it won't match this exact gauntlet, so really you just need to pick what you like the best. And remember you can modify the designs to suit your taste better too
Thank you! I have been trying to work out a way to do a helmet without having to weld. I can weld, but not everyone has a welder in their garage, so it might not make a very good tutorial.
Are you thinking of doing a full suit ? I would imagine alot of people would be interrested in a piece-by-piece tutorial on how to make a full suit, I know I would !
I buy from Shapiro Metals. I think they are ssshapirometals on ebay. I just bought a sheet of 22ga stainless 24" x 48" for $30. If you are using stainless, I STRONGLY suggest not using 14, 16, or even really 18 gauge. It will be extremely hard to cut by hand and hard to shape. 18 is the highest I would ever go in stainless, and I would rather work with 20 or 22. My Iron Man gaunltet is 22ga and it's plenty tough.
I buy from ebay from a company called Shapiro Metals. Their seller name is ssshapirometal. They have the cheapest stainless, but I don't know if they sell brass. Brass is about 3x the price of stainless steel.
The amount of time it takes varies greatly depending on your experience. The cost of materials also varies quite a bit depending on where you buy it, and what region of the country you are in....and I have about 1/3 of my viewers who are in countries other than the United States, so telling them a store name is pointless in their case. I use personally Ebay for most things I buy.
I didn't keep track of hours, but it took about 10 days to fabricate, a few hours a day. I am much slower than most though. Most people claim to be able to do one in a day or two
Well you can always modify whatever gauntlet you like best to suit your needs. I will say that the Iron Man gauntlet is a lot harder to do, so if you're looking for easy, you might want to try modifying one other other ones. However, if you're going to go as Iron Man, you might want to just do that one even though it's more difficult. If you work with thin enough metal it's not too hard. It just takes a lot of time and dedication.
It would probably be easier all around for you to take the design and alter it to fit your needs. Designing a template is a lot more complicated and time-consuming than most people realize. The Iron Man template took me 2 MONTHS to complete....and that was before I even touched the metal.
Of course. I prefer people to ask questions here in the comments section so that everyone else can see the answers, but you can also PM me or email me too.
1.5 mm is going to be really hard to cut and bend. I suggest ordering online and going thinner. 20ga or even 22ga stainless is plenty tough enough (and even that is no picnic to cut with snips)
Depends on your skill level and attention to detail. I am really slow, but I think I got this one done in about 12 days. Keep in mind I had to film and make adjustments as I went. Others have claimed to build this one in about a day. This one is definitely easier than the first one though because of how I designed the fingerplates.
Hi David Guyton, I hope you are doing well? WOW! Yep, I'm excited about running across your How to Make ??? any of your SUPER AWSOME Armor Tutorials. I am very inspired by your work. :D Your instructions and craftsmanship is OUTSTANDING! Thank you for sharing your videos and ideas. I hope you have a great day, have fun, and take care. Subscribed, Liked, Shared. AWOSOME Buddy! Keep on Crafting your passions. Peace & Joy
It's going to be tough without a vise. I guess you could try using vise grips or something...I really don't know. If I were you I would invest in a vise....they can be bought for as little as $30 and will be a useful tool you can use for decades.
I have no idea what kind of bit it is. Just anything that is tough enough to cut metal is fine. As far as grinding goes...you can use whatever works. If all else fails, Harbor Freight has mini grinders for $29.
tack as in weld? Welding any of the parts would create some problems. First, each part must be able to move freely, and when you weld you are locking the parts together. Second, unless you are TIG welding with stainless rod, the welds will rust. Most people who have welders have a MIG, and that will certainly rust.
Dude. You’re making metalwork very approachable. It can be extremely intimidating for beginners yet your templates make this very very doable
For anyone that looks at this and is on the fence about it, let me tell you this: I just bought the instructions for this to start working on this week, and I was hesitant too. But after even a glance at the instructions, I can tell you it's what you want. It's exactly what I need, nothing more, nothing less.
HOLY SH*T THIS MADE WALL PUNCHING NOT ONLY PAINLESS, BUT EASY AND FUN! :D THANKS!
thanks, Kyle
Bro same here. In making a gauntlet right now, and I'm watching videos for fingers, I already made the hand and thumb.
$4.99 is a steal for this. You are truly an artist and I shall be buying this template very soon! Seeing the finished product sent shivers down my spine, you have inspired me. I think I'll finally make that set of armor I've always wanted to make.
I don't use a forge, or heat, or use complicated processes. I use mostly ordinary hand tools that can be found in almost any garage. Doing this is not measured with skill level; it is measured by your dedication to the project. ANYONE can do this, they just need to put the time in. Some will take longer than others (I take a lot longer than most, by the way)
Hi David, beautiful work. Never thought about putting my panel tools to this type of work before, but you make this look easy. Thanks for the tutorials.
I second the idea for an armored boot! You do amazing work, especially for someone who just "experiments in their garage". I look forward to seeing what else you have in store!
Thank you! I have a few tutorials I am putting together now. I hope to have the next one up soon...and I am looking into boots and helmets. Get a lot of requests for both
@@DavidGuyton What do you use for materials?
Thank you so much for these videos, using the ballpeen hammer in a vice instead of the anvil was really helpful!
Well thank you very much! I do plan to keep doing these. I have some new tutorials coming soon
20 gauge stainless. You can also use 22 gauge stainless if you like. If you use regular steel, I suggest 20ga for the fingers and 18ga for the rest. The nails are ordinary roofing nails. They are not soft...they just deform easily when hit over and over with a hammer.
wow are we just going to ignore the freaking ghostly face appearing behind him at 1:35
vise versa wtf, i just went back and saw that...its an image of a woman if u stop it right.
I see babe on the thumbnails
vise versa :0 wtf is that! wtf
Bruh...
It's scary that the ghost appears exactly as he is talking eyewear safety and the ghost has empty eye sockets. 0_0
This was only your second gauntlet?! Amazing. I thought you must have done this for a living to do such work. You have motivated me!
Yup, only my second time even working with metal. If I can do it, anyone can.
David Guyton
Great Job , thank you!
UA-cam has apparently made some STUPID changes, making it very difficult for me to find and answer your comments. I am trying to figure things out so please be patient.
ikr its freaking crap!
cool ghost effect 1:34
David Guyton how did you do that
David Guyton ok
Do you have any measurements you can share with me?
it's totally feasible and pretty fun too. And when it's all finished and you can hold the thing in your hands...it's quite gratifying. I highly suggest attempting it.
I suggest leaving things a little more loose so you can move your hand more freely. If you are using leather, it will stretch and bend instead of tearing like paper. For length, I attached the end piece first, thought the metal, leather strip, and glove. Then place the last piece (near the knuckles) on, and get a feel for how much spacing you need. Mark the leather strip for each piece, and then rivet the fingerplates to the leather strip
The "ghost" is a reflection. Notice how the light source is coming from in upper left front and the camera is viewing from the lower right front - exactly the path light would reflect. Also notice the glare from the upper left side of the safety glasses getting brighter as he pushed them up the bridge of his nose. Also notice that the movement of the "ghost" up and to the right corresponds to the exact movement of the safety glasses up and to the right. The room is dusty, and the lens probably has faint amounts of dust that are invisible most of the time, but are visible when illuminated at the right angle - like dust in a sun beam through a window. The perception that the dust reflection looks like a face is a case of pareidolia.
Incredible work, and what a thorough tutorial on your process! Thanks very much for sharing, and for the template as well.
I can't remember exactly. Something like 2 weeks. Most people work much faster than me though, and can finish one in a few days.
Thank you all for making these armoring videos so popular! I am very grateful
it depends on where they end up exactly. The only place that it might bother you is if a rivet ends up right at your fingernail. The lining inside the glove will help to hide the rivet some, but if a riven still bothers you, you can just get some very thin cotton gloves like they use in museums, etc and slip them on beforehand, or sew them into the actual leather glove after riveting.
This is absolutely beautiful, great work man
well thank you very much
ATTENTION! If you have questions for me to answer, please comment on the actual UA-cam page of the video. For some reason when you comment on my videos that are shared on Google+, I am unable to answer.
How much would it be for me to buy two from you? Msg me at basketballgodsCOC@gmail.com. Thanks, Lucas
dude can I buy one?
What do I do? I use €, not $
why is the template so expensive!!!!?????
people have to make money
PLEASE SHARE this video on your Google+ and other social media websites!
David Guyton could I make a suggestion for a helmet?
Thanks! Glad you liked it and I hope you enjoy your project!
As long as your printer settings are set to do so, yes, it will print out at actual size. There is a "1 inch" mark on the template. Print it out and measure that mark. If it's 1 inch, you're good to go.
the whole series should be called "How to Deus Vult for Dummies"
Daniel Esen J. Oliviėr
IM DEAD YES PLEASE THIS IS A GREAT TITLE
Deus Vult
Deus vult is a hundred years before this armor
@@TheCompleteMental how does deus vult has an Era?
@@Jonathan-n5p Crusades
Hello. Beautiful work ! Please tell me, is it stainless steel or is it the finished product will rust? Thank you.
this one is stainless steel and brass, so it will not rust. I have moved on to mild steel in more recent projects though, since it is easier to work.
David Guyton Thank you.
+David Guyton how much would you charge to make me one?.....thanks!
What's up with the face that appears behind you at 1:35?!
I just choose to ignore whatever that thing is. I have to sleep in this house.
David Guyton I know an exorcism, and I'm affordable
you're welcome! thanks for watching it
I get my sheet metal from Ebay from a company called Shapiro Metals. I think their seller name is ssshapirometal. I paid about $20 plus shipping for the stainless steel (20ga, but you can use as thin as 22ga if stainless). Regular steel is much softer so you must use 18ga, 20ga for the fingerplates. Gloves were $13. Thinsulate brand from Walmart. Brass was about $20.
This would be perfect for a zombie attack (walking Dead). thanks for sharing.
DAVID, THERE IS A GHOST BEHIND YOU AT 1:32
Ted Burke Hi Ted... no idea why, but it will not allow me to reply to your comments on my videos. The cost of making a gauntlet will depend on what metal you choose, and how thick it is. For example, My Iron Man gauntlet is about $20 worth of 22ga stainless steel, and $19 gloves. For comparison, my Version 1 gauntlet is 18ga brass, and cost about $60 for the metal and $25 for the gloves.
roughly $20 for the stainless, $15 for the brass, and $13 for the gloves
you bet sir
Sir if you may will you go into a lot more detail as would be much appreciated by many that watch your videos thank you for your consideration
what details are you looking for? I will tell you anything you want to know
+David Guyton How much would it cost to have thick gage gauntlet made, i really like the glove design onf this one. maybe a bit more modern? PM me or reply here. thanks dude!!!
The knuckleplate is wider because it needs to overlap the had parts. This means the piece has to be a little larger overall, so that it not only overlaps, but has enough of a gap between the pieces to allow good articulation. I suggest assembling in paper and making any adjustments you feel you need to make before committing to metal. Just keep in mind that you want these parts to fit together somewhat loosely, not too tight
correct. Some go though the fingerplate, a leather strip, and the glove too...but most are just through the fingerplate and the leather strip.
Absolutely beautiful. It's a functional work of art. Artisans such as you are rare. Keep up the fantastic work. 1926lady
ummm ghost behind you at 1:34.....
dsjkwr that's his goggles strap
Im sleeping with my head under the covers tonight
MathYu Uldyssian worry not! I know an exorcism, Buddhist warding as well as sealing, normal barriers, and so on
spoopy warning
dsjkwr holy shit
Oh my god David there is a ghost behind you at 1:34!!!!
Tyler Holtz I have seen that thing. I refuse to believe it's real
David Guyton Did you ever see it in your house before I'm just curious
Nope. Didn't even see it in the video until months after it was uploaded
David Guyton beat it up with your armored gauntlets
hahah
UA-cam is my classroom! Where I both teach AND learn!
Yes just flip the template pieces over and trace them that way. Just do the exact same thing for the right one that you did for the left, just mirrored.
Do you realize there's a ghost that appears at 1:33 to the right of your head? Who is that?
I have seen it. I refuse to believe it's real. I have to sleep in this house.
Did anyone else see the creepy face behind him at 1:35? o.o
IT MADE ME SHIVER, WHAT THE FUUUUUUUCK?
"Just tools you'd find in your garage, nothing fancy here"..... "cough" anvil "cough" : p
+Ben Turner well to be fair its not even a real anvil lol. Its made of cheap cast iron and probably was only 50 dollars.
+Ben Turner if you check his DIY armoring tools he says you can use a dumbell or any thing really heavy
Ben Turner i don't have a garage. that's where my problems begin xD
Pokemon Meister Ask a friend if you could use their garage.
You can find an okay anvil for small projects for less than $100. I go mine from Princess Auto and I've been making trinkets like miniature swords as gifts and whatnot.
Well, I have one. If you shop at harbor freight you can have one too. Or you can use a dumbbell or any other kind of weight.
Hand files, or a Dremel tool. You can also buy mini grinders fairly cheap. Harbor Freight has them for $29.
whaha that ghost scared me xD
I know, right? Im sleeping with the light on tonight😰
watch this video at 2x speed to save time.
Thats so cool!
It's has something surrealist to see all these plates moving together so nicely.
At first, as it's all metal, you'd expect it to be an animatronic...but then you see it's the fluid moves of a real human's hand. Amazing!
I got mine from Harbor Freight Tools. If you can't find one, you can use a dumbbell or any kind of weight like that.
That is how the finglerplates are connected. however the strip is also riveted to the glove in some places too.
Harbor Freight has mini grinders for like $29. You can also use a Dremel tool or files, but it will take much longer to do.
Excellent! Glad to be inspiring to you. Good luck with your project and keep me posted on your progress
I bought the stainless for $20, and the brass for $20 (Ebay). Gloves were $13 from Walmart. You'll have to shop around for prices for the tools you will need. See my DIY Armoring Tools video for what I used.
It depends on the metal you use, and the thickness of the metal. If you are making it as a wearable costume piece that you plan to have on for a few hours, I suggest 20 or 22 gauge stainless...maybe as thin as 24ga. This won't be "battle ready" armor but it'll be tough enough, and weigh, I dunno, 2 lbs or so. Maybe a little more
You can use whatever thickness you want. If using stainless, I suggest 20 or even 22 gauge (higher number, thinner metal) Anything thicker than that will be VERY hard to cut with hand tools. Regular steel, brass...those can be up to 18ga, and I would not use 22ga in those metals. As far as dimensions, the template prints out to 4 or 5 pages. You will need about that large of a piece of sheet metal for each gauntlet you want to make. I get mine pretty cheap from ssshapirometal on Ebay
No. Light hammering is all I used. This will actually serve to strengthen the metal a little up to a point. Heat treating isn't necessary at all, and would be a tremendous added chore.
I can't thank you enough, this is matching my Halloween costume perfectly! I started a few months ago to make sure it comes out nice, and it's now done, definitely worth the money and work, thank you!!
Awesome! Happy to hear that!
Yes, but I suggest getting some "bullnose" snips, or sometimes they are called "bulldog" snips. They are able to cut up to 18ga, although 20 and 22 were not terribly easy to cut. 18 would be a real chore. Other snips can work too, but cutting this stuff out is not fun. Once you get the pieces cut, it's all easy work
Thank you very much! It's about to get even better
Yes, for this gauntlet and also the version 1 gauntlet, articulation is excellent. The Iron Man gauntlet is not quite as good because it has metal plates on the palm of the hand, which limits articulation.
I designed this one to be a little easier than the others, so it's a good one for your first project. Until you get comfortable, steer clear of the Iron Man one haha. As far as other armor I am doing...it won't match this exact gauntlet, so really you just need to pick what you like the best. And remember you can modify the designs to suit your taste better too
that would actually be a really fun build. If I had a buyer lined up, I would take that on.
thank you very much! Glad you liked it
I got mine from Harbor Freight Tools. You can also use a dumbbell if you can't find an anvil
Thank you! I have been trying to work out a way to do a helmet without having to weld. I can weld, but not everyone has a welder in their garage, so it might not make a very good tutorial.
Are you thinking of doing a full suit ? I would imagine alot of people would be interrested in a piece-by-piece tutorial on how to make a full suit, I know I would !
I buy from Shapiro Metals. I think they are ssshapirometals on ebay. I just bought a sheet of 22ga stainless 24" x 48" for $30. If you are using stainless, I STRONGLY suggest not using 14, 16, or even really 18 gauge. It will be extremely hard to cut by hand and hard to shape. 18 is the highest I would ever go in stainless, and I would rather work with 20 or 22. My Iron Man gaunltet is 22ga and it's plenty tough.
I buy from ebay from a company called Shapiro Metals. Their seller name is ssshapirometal. They have the cheapest stainless, but I don't know if they sell brass. Brass is about 3x the price of stainless steel.
The amount of time it takes varies greatly depending on your experience. The cost of materials also varies quite a bit depending on where you buy it, and what region of the country you are in....and I have about 1/3 of my viewers who are in countries other than the United States, so telling them a store name is pointless in their case. I use personally Ebay for most things I buy.
can I just say I would love to see your props in tv and movies? they way that gauntley shines and how fluid it moves. Its just awesome
I didn't keep track of hours, but it took about 10 days to fabricate, a few hours a day. I am much slower than most though. Most people claim to be able to do one in a day or two
Well you can always modify whatever gauntlet you like best to suit your needs. I will say that the Iron Man gauntlet is a lot harder to do, so if you're looking for easy, you might want to try modifying one other other ones. However, if you're going to go as Iron Man, you might want to just do that one even though it's more difficult. If you work with thin enough metal it's not too hard. It just takes a lot of time and dedication.
It would probably be easier all around for you to take the design and alter it to fit your needs. Designing a template is a lot more complicated and time-consuming than most people realize. The Iron Man template took me 2 MONTHS to complete....and that was before I even touched the metal.
Of course. I prefer people to ask questions here in the comments section so that everyone else can see the answers, but you can also PM me or email me too.
THANKS! first time someone answered my question! God Bless You! Greetings from Moldova:)
They are riveted to a strip of leather which is riveted to the glove. All the information is there, starting at about 7:10
gloves were $13 from Walmart. 20ga stainless steel from Ebay for about $20. Brass sheet from Ebay for about $20
well thank YOU! Good luck with your armoring projects
Thanks for your explanation. Following your demostration and using some of my own ideas I made a gaunlet myself. Keep it up!!
Why thank you! Glad you liked the video
Thanks a lot! Glad you liked it
DUDE YOU SIR ARE A GENIUS. I been looking for a way to build armor with out a forge or heat. THANK YOU!
Well that's quite a compliment! Thank you!
1.5 mm is going to be really hard to cut and bend. I suggest ordering online and going thinner. 20ga or even 22ga stainless is plenty tough enough (and even that is no picnic to cut with snips)
I have never worked with tin. I imagine it's very soft, but it could probably work. I do suggest harder metals though
I am 2 days into a build similar to this one. Making 1 finger a night, do not want to rush or burn myself out. Thank you for your inspiration.
This is my favorite piece so far!! So beautiful! Such exquisite work, sir! I love it!!
Depends on your skill level and attention to detail. I am really slow, but I think I got this one done in about 12 days. Keep in mind I had to film and make adjustments as I went. Others have claimed to build this one in about a day. This one is definitely easier than the first one though because of how I designed the fingerplates.
Template purchased - can't wait to get started. Thanks very much for posting this, man! Great work!
Hi David Guyton, I hope you are doing well? WOW! Yep, I'm excited about running across your How to Make ??? any of your SUPER AWSOME Armor Tutorials. I am very inspired by your work. :D Your instructions and craftsmanship is OUTSTANDING! Thank you for sharing your videos and ideas. I hope you have a great day, have fun, and take care. Subscribed, Liked, Shared. AWOSOME Buddy! Keep on Crafting your passions. Peace & Joy
Well thank you very much! I have a lot of respect for you 1/6 scale guys....I don't know how you make things so small.
I was a little stuck for a bit on my scrap/apocalypse style armor and this REALLY helped. THANK YOU!
It's going to be tough without a vise. I guess you could try using vise grips or something...I really don't know. If I were you I would invest in a vise....they can be bought for as little as $30 and will be a useful tool you can use for decades.
there are rivets going through the metal and leather at certain points throughout the gauntlet. I have the specific holes marked on the template
Awesome! Glad you enjoyed the project
I have no idea what kind of bit it is. Just anything that is tough enough to cut metal is fine. As far as grinding goes...you can use whatever works. If all else fails, Harbor Freight has mini grinders for $29.
tack as in weld? Welding any of the parts would create some problems. First, each part must be able to move freely, and when you weld you are locking the parts together. Second, unless you are TIG welding with stainless rod, the welds will rust. Most people who have welders have a MIG, and that will certainly rust.
Beautiful work and tutorial, hard to find good stuff like this one UA-cam.
Why thank you! Glad you liked it
i can't believe how smooth the gauntlet moves ... amazing job
The palm of the hand has to be armor-free so that the wearer can grip things. The bottom of the arm....usually covered but sometimes not.