Thanks Paul just finished mine iv gone for the brick look. I cleaned the sides like you said used lecal 5500. I built I shed come man cave and that's where the flooing has been put down I'm happy with it. All thanks to you and your video please keep the fantastic work up. Iv read what the trolls have wrote on here there just full of bitterness and shite sod the lot of them. Your a good man keep the good work up my friend. Thank you 1 happy follower 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
That is excellent. I have taken the advice and it works very well (yes, I'm using Lecol 5500). It's just as well because I have 30 sq metres of finger parquet to lay!
I laid reclaimed parquet with tar on the back using Laybond and they're still perfect 10 years on. However I was informed by building control they don't like carcinogenic materials (tar) to be incorporated into buildings so just take care if your project requires building control approval.
Just want to say thank you absolutely fantastic illustration how to lay a Parque floor the best one on you tube very helpful I've just laid a Parque floor on two of my rooms in my house bloody hard but well worth it obviously used to reclaim one like yourself I must say the glue you recommended was absolutely fantastic. Thanks again John top man
Paul I’m that know all you hate ... Firstly these are plain edge wood blocks and not traditional parquet ( which traditional is 1/4 thin longer battens that are pinned and wood glued to suspended subfloors such as floorboards and it’s very decorative with pattered inlays after the fashion of marquetry) ! To remove old pitch just gas torch it and scrape .. although if left on it will not prevent adhesion with cold adhesive such as LAYCOL Alternatively re lay in hot pitch and set time is almost immediate!! Also when you set out your herringbone line if you had run out a test set first you could have moved you line to avoid a double cut against your border which is harder work and looks unprofessional .. as does your double block staggered border it must be a half block stagger everywhere even if you have to shorten at the corners ... incidentally, where you first went wrong ,, But good luck mate .....I was a hard task master in the trade from the age of 14yrs and retired from working at 74 yrs so I’ve fitted and finished many in famous buildings in the London England area .. it’s a tough job mate !!
Thanks for the video it has saved me a headache of what to do with my reclaimed parquet, I even thought I would have to sell, but I can have a go at laying it now. thanks again
Great video Paul, are you still laying floors ? ive just acquired 32 sq meters of parquet flooring strange size, each piece is about 6 inches long an just over an inch wide.... some of the piexes are in 4 or five as a small block but theres hundreds of single bits too its lovely wood shame to throw it away anyone interested in it ??
fitting direct to quarries, and butting border tight to skirtings and no expansion, this is a recipe for failure when the summer kicks in and the floor starts to move. there's a reason fitting reclaimed blocks is so expensive and that is the preparation work that needs doing to be able to fit them and the knowledge that fitter SHOULD have. if people want to have a go themselves that's great but remember there's a lot more involved than just sticking blocks to the floor and chucking a couple of coats of seal on a contaminated surface. there's plenty of information out there so do your research before hand
Your floor looks lovely. We have some much smaller teak parquet. Probably 1960s. Plan to use as top surface of stair treads on top of 50mm birch ply. Star design is single steel stringer with treads bolted across. May I ask, does the glue you use work ok for timber to timber?
Hi thanks for all the help. I'm. It sure when to clean the blocks ie before laying or after. Also what's is best to finish them, wax or varnish? Thank you
Think you have just saved me a load of work Paul, many thanks for sharing your expertise. Could you please tell me what tool/knife you used to clean the sides with?
Hi. Paul. Sorry to message on here to ask questions. This video has saved me a whole ton of work I recon. I have some questions. Firstly the pine tiles a bit old dry and damaged thinking of cutting 5mm of the good side with a table saw. Would you recommend this or, just lay the tiles the sand the whole lot together. Also laying onto a concrete floor would I need to seal the concrete first or just lay on top. Also. The other half of the floor is bitumen but I’m guesting this will lay really well with the solvent. Thanks. For any comment.
Hi Paul, Thank you for the good information. I just got a big pile of Rhodesian Teak reclaimed floor blocks delivered which I want to fit in my living room, which currently only has a rough concrete finish. I haven't removed the tar on the bottom (was about to but will follow your advise). Can I use the Lecol 5500 on my rough copy Crete floor or do I need a different glue? And must a put some other finish (like a leveling concrete or similar first before laying the wood blocks? Looking forward to your advise. Thank you. Katja
Thanks Paul for a great video. Finished result looks amazing! I hope it all stayed down, not like the other comments predict. I have only 6sq m of reclaimed bitumen covered blocks but will still try your method. Is there a reason why the glue was applied to the block rather than to the floor? Do the gaps between blocks need filling? Would oil rather than varnish work as a top cover? thanks
I'm doing this at the minute. I put 5 fingers at a time in the microwave, tar side up, for about 15 seconds. it warms the tar and you can lay the blocks with the same adhesive. Strange but true. LOL
Thanks Paul, great video it's helped me alot. I intend on a lighter finish so I'll be sanding more by hand not hiring a machine, what laquer can I use to get the lightest finish?
Paul, great video of the parquet - nice filming. Do you have a pic of the finished floor after the varnish has gone off (looks very shiny in the pics because it's still wet)?
..... Hi Paul, one more question: what should I use for a sealer (I want a natural finish showing the real colour of the teak) but I am mopping daily (got two young kids, so need something that can perform strongly to keep the water away from penetrating the wood)
Hi mate. Thanks for the video.. About to pick up some reclaimed floor to give it a go. You mentioned about cutting/slicing the pieces for a job that needed a thinner product. What method did you use, as I'd ideally like a thinner tile, plus the added bonus of removing the tar. Cheers
Would you use the same solution if laying into a concrete sub base? Or would you screed or seal the concrete with something first? If so, what would you recommend, the same Lecol500? Thanks
Some of the comments are a bit harsh here, I’m just looking in because I need to replace a few blocks in front of the fire place, I hope everything works out ok with your floor.
Do you lay your border as you go? I’m about to tackle my first install at home and was going to do the whole border first and then work from the centre out. Any help appreciated.
Just my pen knife edge, you could use one of those window cleaning blades with a Stanley knife blade or even just scrape them on an old concrete block. Just to get the gunk that builds up between blocks that have shrunk a little
@@Geo-Dome Thank you for the reply. I have several hundred square feet of old reclaimed maple flooring from the 50's that has loads of gunk on the edges. It will all need to be removed before it can be put down. I tried my table saw but if there was any warp to the wood it either took too much (wood) or not enough and left chucks of stuff behind. Looks like I'm hand scraping all the edges.
I would recomend you consult an expert before anyone touches your floor, any one who creates a barrier that stops your floor from breathing and water evaporating does not understand how old buildings are engineered. Haynes guide to period propertys is a good read and gives the layman knowledge to know if the builder knows what he is doing.
Hi Paul, great video, what kind of wood would you recommend for a sitting room with lots of walking and we have two big dogs, needs to be hardwearing.. many thanks
Oak block has been in my house since 1947, previous owners had 7 children plus various dogs, my household; big dog, several cats, four children and heaven knows what else. After my building work was finished (bricks/dust etc all over it, due to re-wiring and building an internal wall), I washed it down with fairy liquid and water on a Mrs Mop, and once dry I oiled it with boiled linseed oil, 15 years later I oiled it once more (labour saving, you just wipe it on with a rag, then wipe off any excess after half an hour). No prep beyond a wash. My floor looks as good as his, though its a soft sheen rather than high gloss, but no maintenance required beyond hoovering and very occasional wash. Would highly recommend linseed oiled oak from personal experience of it, I guess you could wax but I don't, as for me the stain proof/waterproofing and sheen of linseed oil is enough. Also works to water/stain proof/sheen on tumbled marble floor in my kitchen too. It's proofed against gloss paint spilled recently, and beetroot juice which is a notorious stainer, and what I used to test a tile before deciding on linseed oil in the first place.
Hi Paul, nice job, How did you hand sand the parquet floor? as I have to do the same. Modern sanding machines are crazy and just take too much wood of the parquet.
I used 240 grit paper and just sanded with the grain on each block, it won't remove varnish or cut into the wood so you keep the patina of the old parquet. Great if you want an old looking floor, people often think it an original floor, but if you have scabby blocks or want a new look machine sanding is the only way. You could use an orbital sander with is kind of in between.
Very happy to hear/see removal not required. Floor looks wonderful. I'm extending an existing oak block floor when a wall comes down shortly, so the heights will have to match. How would you cut the tar off if required for height reasons? Any help appreciated (onto an existing concrete base, currently under loose laid quarries that just lift off).
Yes it’s called a thickness planer perfect for this type off job a hand held planer in a proper vice would be ur next option you could make something up so every block sits in the vice at same size then take off minimum Iam a floor layer for over 30 years with bitumen on back anything can happen if you relay it’s not worth the hassle I’ve seen the whole floor react and bubble like mountains especially on new floors and old all that hard work laying it and cost off hours & material and headaches cutting corners isn’t the way too go peace off mind is better in long run Jessica if you really want that floor down I have read a few comments with success Thow bitumen is always active if your home has lots off sunshine coming in or very cold in areas that’s when it blows the floor in my experiences hope this helps Jessica
@@neilmurphy3239 Thank you very much for the detailed reply. Will think seriously about my options, and possible risks. Have to admit, I don't want my floor becoming a mountain range, and the very large window in that area faces south.
@@jesshothersall without a question all these factors can cause a upset each job is different Thow and that’s why Wee look at possible upset with the bitumen back if thick I’ve seen it dissolve the adhesive too water with reaction gives you a idea at least Jessica good luck 😉
Hey! Just had concrete laid in the living room. Now I’ve got the wood to lay. Can I just put it straight onto the concrete or will I have to put an underlay ?? Thank you!
You can put it straight on the concrete (use appropriate glue)but it has to be completely dry, any moister will wick into the wood and make it swell, then dry out and shrink over time. A moister gauge should do the trick.
No I don't, old wood tends to be very stable, the building should also be stable for moister, if the room gets damp then dry you could have a problem but hot/cold won't affect it much at all.
Hi Paul, thanks for the video - very inspiring, floor looks amazing. You seem like you know what you're doing and its hard to get the best right or best answer online. I have a larger room than the one shown in your video, would you recommend starting from the wall like you did or from the centre of the room? Be keen for your reply so when you get a chance please get back to me :)
I always start from a wall, so at least you have one straight edge, if you start in the middle of a room you will get cuts all the way round. Plus if you have a wall that is seen, start with that as it is easier to get it neat.
You shouldn't lay parquet blocks on underfloor heating, it doesn't matter whether they are stuck down with tar or adhesive. If you have underfloor heating you need to install engineered flooring which is dimensionally stable. Parquet blocks aren't.
I’m sorry I test products like this for a living and it on an individual basis there may be asbestos in the bitumen, but each building was made differently and some bitumen predates asbestos fibres present. To be safe sent a sample to a lab and find out.
The problem is not only asbestos, but polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs), which quite likely in the tar. It's carcinogenic, and can cause lung cancer for example if you breathe in the dust. Not the best thing to have in your home. There's a book called "Organic Indoor Air Pollutants" on Google books, which has a chapter on PAHs and parquet floors on page 48.
very bad job.... sanding process done only 20 %, no any level , ni fill the grain hard to tell what is in the video if you don't have idea what it has to be done ....
@Paul Robinson Hi, I am going to be laying some reclaimed parquet fingers (the small ones around 12cm by 2.5cm) onto concrete. I was wondering if you (or anyone) knew if it would be worth putting underlay down first as I see you don't here but I have had others say I should...? Thank you!
@@yousifsuliman2446 hi, so when I put mine down I did not put any underlay down, just straight onto the concrete with the glue. It worked fine. It is only in a small area at our doorway so I cannot comment for bigger areas. Not an expert, just a DIYer, but I can't really even see how with this sort of parquet an underlay would work as I would think it would make the floor much less stable. If you've got stuff with tounge and groove or whatever I think an underlay would be fine though. Like I say though, I am not an expert just someone who's put down a few different wooden floors.
@@yousifsuliman2446 I self levelled. My tip would just be to make sure you have enough self levelling compound, ideally with one person mixing and one person pouring/spreading
Hi - Does anyone know any good parquet floor fitters in / or willing to travel to North Wales, approx 5 miles from Pwllheli. I have approx 30sqm to install, however, it is oak reclaimed and needs cleaning of the bitumen etc too.
What a rubbish job, embarrassing to watch, hope nobody copies it and then has to contend with them popping up in time to come, well it won't be his problem as the bodger will have moved on to his next unsuspecting client.
Thanks Paul just finished mine iv gone for the brick look. I cleaned the sides like you said used lecal 5500. I built I shed come man cave and that's where the flooing has been put down I'm happy with it. All thanks to you and your video please keep the fantastic work up.
Iv read what the trolls have wrote on here there just full of bitterness and shite sod the lot of them. Your a good man keep the good work up my friend.
Thank you
1 happy follower 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
You sound like his partner
If you think that’s a good job you carry on
No partner at all fella but but his right mines been 2yrs absolutely no movement so yes good on me and I will carry on
That is excellent. I have taken the advice and it works very well (yes, I'm using Lecol 5500). It's just as well because I have 30 sq metres of finger parquet to lay!
Brilliant hand made floor. Hardly any electric tools, good sensible logic on cleaning the tiles. Thanks
I laid reclaimed parquet with tar on the back using Laybond and they're still perfect 10 years on. However I was informed by building control they don't like carcinogenic materials (tar) to be incorporated into buildings so just take care if your project requires building control approval.
Just want to say thank you absolutely fantastic illustration how to lay a Parque floor the best one on you tube very helpful I've just laid a Parque floor on two of my rooms in my house bloody hard but well worth it obviously used to reclaim one like yourself I must say the glue you recommended was absolutely fantastic. Thanks again John top man
Paul I’m that know all you hate ... Firstly these are plain edge wood blocks and not traditional parquet ( which traditional is 1/4 thin longer battens that are pinned and wood glued to suspended subfloors such as floorboards and it’s very decorative with pattered inlays after the fashion of marquetry) ! To remove old pitch just gas torch it and scrape .. although if left on it will not prevent adhesion with cold adhesive such as LAYCOL Alternatively re lay in hot pitch and set time is almost immediate!!
Also when you set out your herringbone line if you had run out a test set first you could have moved you line to avoid a double cut against your border which is harder work and looks unprofessional .. as does your double block staggered border it must be a half block stagger everywhere even if you have to shorten at the corners ... incidentally, where you first went wrong ,, But good luck mate .....I was a hard task master in the trade from the age of 14yrs and retired from working at 74 yrs so I’ve fitted and finished many in famous buildings in the London England area .. it’s a tough job mate !!
Thanks for the video it has saved me a headache of what to do with my reclaimed parquet, I even thought I would have to sell, but I can have a go at laying it now. thanks again
So glad I saw this video. It'll save money, time and effort trying to remove the tar.
Thank you Paul! I am just about to start salvaging an old parquet floor taken up at the start of our major reno this will save me heaps of time :-)
How did yours turn out? Starting mine this week
Great video saved me a lot of heartache and time, thanks
Thanks for the info, I have some loose parquet flooring I will get some of that glue to stick them down
in the trade we call this a "rough one"
Fair play Paul the floor looks amazing well done mate.
Thanks we are looking at doing this I think you will save us a lot of horrid work 😀 the floor looks great 👍
Great video Paul, are you still laying floors ? ive just acquired 32 sq meters of parquet flooring strange size, each piece is about 6 inches long an just over an inch wide.... some of the piexes are in 4 or five as a small block but theres hundreds of single bits too its lovely wood shame to throw it away anyone interested in it ??
fitting direct to quarries, and butting border tight to skirtings and no expansion, this is a recipe for failure when the summer kicks in and the floor starts to move. there's a reason fitting reclaimed blocks is so expensive and that is the preparation work that needs doing to be able to fit them and the knowledge that fitter SHOULD have. if people want to have a go themselves that's great but remember there's a lot more involved than just sticking blocks to the floor and chucking a couple of coats of seal on a contaminated surface. there's plenty of information out there so do your research before hand
Your floor looks lovely. We have some much smaller teak parquet. Probably 1960s. Plan to use as top surface of stair treads on top of 50mm birch ply. Star design is single steel stringer with treads bolted across. May I ask, does the glue you use work ok for timber to timber?
Looks amazing great job
Hi thanks for all the help. I'm. It sure when to clean the blocks ie before laying or after. Also what's is best to finish them, wax or varnish? Thank you
Beautiful workmanship.
Think you have just saved me a load of work Paul, many thanks for sharing your expertise. Could you please tell me what tool/knife you used to clean the sides with?
Mate. You’ve made my day 😂
Looks nice mate. Just made it to your channel. Some great info. Have you got a video of you removing reclaimed parquet?
Great and useful video..can you stick on a vynal for that has been laid on concrete? Thanks james
Fair play nice finish!
Would of been good to see you cutting the tiles and your method on laying them down. Cracking video though.
Fabulous video. Paul can the floor be fitted straight onto concrete?
Hi. Paul. Sorry to message on here to ask questions. This video has saved me a whole ton of work I recon. I have some questions. Firstly the pine tiles a bit old dry and damaged thinking of cutting 5mm of the good side with a table saw. Would you recommend this or, just lay the tiles the sand the whole lot together. Also laying onto a concrete floor would I need to seal the concrete first or just lay on top. Also. The other half of the floor is bitumen but I’m guesting this will lay really well with the solvent. Thanks. For any comment.
Fabulous, just what I needed so thanks! Am about to start my project!1
Great video, some very handy tips
Hi Paul,
Thank you for the good information. I just got a big pile of Rhodesian Teak reclaimed floor blocks delivered which I want to fit in my living room, which currently only has a rough concrete finish. I haven't removed the tar on the bottom (was about to but will follow your advise). Can I use the Lecol 5500 on my rough copy Crete floor or do I need a different glue? And must a put some other finish (like a leveling concrete or similar first before laying the wood blocks? Looking forward to your advise. Thank you. Katja
Looks absolutely fantastic❤
What a beautiful floor
This has really helped me. Thank you
Don't do it this was tottle botch
Thanks Paul for a great video. Finished result looks amazing! I hope it all stayed down, not like the other comments predict. I have only 6sq m of reclaimed bitumen covered blocks but will still try your method. Is there a reason why the glue was applied to the block rather than to the floor? Do the gaps between blocks need filling? Would oil rather than varnish work as a top cover? thanks
I'm doing this at the minute. I put 5 fingers at a time in the microwave, tar side up, for about 15 seconds. it warms the tar and you can lay the blocks with the same adhesive. Strange but true. LOL
fantastic work mate going to tackle mine now :-)
This is really my favourite Channel!
Thanks for your nice Videos,
it is very enlightening,
Waiting for your latest update.
Drumsnab Parkette
Very nice indeed, and very practical. I noticed that you cut some tiles to size and then leaving a gap, how did you fill the gaps
I was wondering this too! Did you find out? Would be nice to know if anyone can shed some light on it please? Thanks
Thanks Paul, great video it's helped me alot. I intend on a lighter finish so I'll be sanding more by hand not hiring a machine, what laquer can I use to get the lightest finish?
I like this idea better 👌🏻
Consider this expansion forces of wood will split granite and are more than enough to do structural damage to anything.
Looks amazing!
Paul, great video of the parquet - nice filming. Do you have a pic of the finished floor after the varnish has gone off (looks very shiny in the pics because it's still wet)?
..... Hi Paul, one more question: what should I use for a sealer (I want a natural finish showing the real colour of the teak) but I am mopping daily (got two young kids, so need something that can perform strongly to keep the water away from penetrating the wood)
Nice. Thanks thanks for the sound info Paul
Hi mate. Thanks for the video.. About to pick up some reclaimed floor to give it a go.
You mentioned about cutting/slicing the pieces for a job that needed a thinner product. What method did you use, as I'd ideally like a thinner tile, plus the added bonus of removing the tar. Cheers
Beautiful job mate
Thanks Paul. I was wondering how much should I expect to pay a pro to fit a floor if the size in your video ?
Can you use this adhesive for laying reclaimed pine floor boards on to concrete ?
Would you use the same solution if laying into a concrete sub base? Or would you screed or seal the concrete with something first? If so, what would you recommend, the same Lecol500? Thanks
Nice result!
Some of the comments are a bit harsh here, I’m just looking in because I need to replace a few blocks in front of the fire place, I hope everything works out ok with your floor.
Do you lay your border as you go? I’m about to tackle my first install at home and was going to do the whole border first and then work from the centre out. Any help appreciated.
Love that floor. One question. When you say you had to clean the edges with a knife, what type of knife?
Just my pen knife edge, you could use one of those window cleaning blades with a Stanley knife blade or even just scrape them on an old concrete block. Just to get the gunk that builds up between blocks that have shrunk a little
@@Geo-Dome Thank you for the reply. I have several hundred square feet of old reclaimed maple flooring from the 50's that has loads of gunk on the edges. It will all need to be removed before it can be put down. I tried my table saw but if there was any warp to the wood it either took too much (wood) or not enough and left chucks of stuff behind. Looks like I'm hand scraping all the edges.
I would recomend you consult an expert before anyone touches your floor, any one who creates a barrier that stops your floor from breathing and water evaporating does not understand how old buildings are engineered. Haynes guide to period propertys is a good read and gives the layman knowledge to know if the builder knows what he is doing.
Hi Paul, great video. Can I use the same technique to lay the reclaimed parquet over wood umder floor boards? And concrete screed?
Did you get a reply? I have the same question
When you say hand-sanded did you use what did you use please.
Hi Paul could you recommend a quick way to clean to sides of the parquet as I have 120m2 of used pine to lay
Excellent
Hi Paul, great video, what kind of wood would you recommend for a sitting room with lots of walking and we have two big dogs, needs to be hardwearing.. many thanks
I have used reclaimed maple which is a hard wood
Oak block has been in my house since 1947, previous owners had 7 children plus various dogs, my household; big dog, several cats, four children and heaven knows what else. After my building work was finished (bricks/dust etc all over it, due to re-wiring and building an internal wall), I washed it down with fairy liquid and water on a Mrs Mop, and once dry I oiled it with boiled linseed oil, 15 years later I oiled it once more (labour saving, you just wipe it on with a rag, then wipe off any excess after half an hour). No prep beyond a wash. My floor looks as good as his, though its a soft sheen rather than high gloss, but no maintenance required beyond hoovering and very occasional wash. Would highly recommend linseed oiled oak from personal experience of it, I guess you could wax but I don't, as for me the stain proof/waterproofing and sheen of linseed oil is enough. Also works to water/stain proof/sheen on tumbled marble floor in my kitchen too. It's proofed against gloss paint spilled recently, and beetroot juice which is a notorious stainer, and what I used to test a tile before deciding on linseed oil in the first place.
How come it doesn’t have the tongue and groove ?
Can I ask one question, when you say hand sanding is that with a hand sander? or a sanding block. Thanks
How did you hand sand Paul.. With what? Thanks
Thanks for this
Hi can you leave the skirting on with parquet flooring (expansion)
Hi Paul, nice job, How did you hand sand the parquet floor? as I have to do the same. Modern sanding machines are crazy and just take too much wood of the parquet.
I used 240 grit paper and just sanded with the grain on each block, it won't remove varnish or cut into the wood so you keep the patina of the old parquet. Great if you want an old looking floor, people often think it an original floor, but if you have scabby blocks or want a new look machine sanding is the only way. You could use an orbital sander with is kind of in between.
Very happy to hear/see removal not required. Floor looks wonderful. I'm extending an existing oak block floor when a wall comes down shortly, so the heights will have to match. How would you cut the tar off if required for height reasons? Any help appreciated (onto an existing concrete base, currently under loose laid quarries that just lift off).
You put it through a planer set at a size for all blocks very easy and fast simple
@@neilmurphy3239 Thanks, I only have an electric hand held planer, would that work, as your answer gives the impression you mean a table planer?
Yes it’s called a thickness planer perfect for this type off job a hand held planer in a proper vice would be ur next option you could make something up so every block sits in the vice at same size then take off minimum Iam a floor layer for over 30 years with bitumen on back anything can happen if you relay it’s not worth the hassle I’ve seen the whole floor react and bubble like mountains especially on new floors and old all that hard work laying it and cost off hours & material and headaches cutting corners isn’t the way too go peace off mind is better in long run Jessica if you really want that floor down I have read a few comments with success Thow bitumen is always active if your home has lots off sunshine coming in or very cold in areas that’s when it blows the floor in my experiences hope this helps Jessica
@@neilmurphy3239 Thank you very much for the detailed reply. Will think seriously about my options, and possible risks. Have to admit, I don't want my floor becoming a mountain range, and the very large window in that area faces south.
@@jesshothersall without a question all these factors can cause a upset each job is different Thow and that’s why Wee look at possible upset with the bitumen back if thick I’ve seen it dissolve the adhesive too water with reaction gives you a idea at least Jessica good luck 😉
Cracking vid...
Thanks, really helpful. Would I be able to use the same glue to lay beech parquet on floor boards?
Hey! Just had concrete laid in the living room. Now I’ve got the wood to lay. Can I just put it straight onto the concrete or will I have to put an underlay ?? Thank you!
You can put it straight on the concrete (use appropriate glue)but it has to be completely dry, any moister will wick into the wood and make it swell, then dry out and shrink over time. A moister gauge should do the trick.
We have just bought some reclaimed parquet but there is quite a bit of tar on the top of each piece. How do you get the tough pieces off tar off?
Would this work over a concrete floor?
Looks good
You say Machine sanding would ruin the old look, but you think that thick gloss varnish helps!!!!
Great job, can I ask why you used varnish instead of something like Osmo oil?
Thank you so much!
Hi Paul, do you leave a gal around the edge for the wood to expand?
No I don't, old wood tends to be very stable, the building should also be stable for moister, if the room gets damp then dry you could have a problem but hot/cold won't affect it much at all.
Love the video! How do you clean the sides of the blocks? What tools do you use?
I’d lay out a strip of P40 sandpaper on the floor, clean the edges that way maybe
Amazing
What vanish did you used on your floor
Beauty
Great job! What kind of glue you use? Do you send before glue?
See video
Does that black tar contain asbestos??
Been asked to lay 300 sq m of this any idea to how much to charge a square metre it all the cleaning that's worrying me ??
Hi Paul, thanks for the video - very inspiring, floor looks amazing. You seem like you know what you're doing and its hard to get the best right or best answer online. I have a larger room than the one shown in your video, would you recommend starting from the wall like you did or from the centre of the room? Be keen for your reply so when you get a chance please get back to me :)
I always start from a wall, so at least you have one straight edge, if you start in the middle of a room you will get cuts all the way round. Plus if you have a wall that is seen, start with that as it is easier to get it neat.
Can I put under floor heating under tar bottomed parquet.
You shouldn't lay parquet blocks on underfloor heating, it doesn't matter whether they are stuck down with tar or adhesive. If you have underfloor heating you need to install engineered flooring which is dimensionally stable. Parquet blocks aren't.
Is the tar toxic and is there asbestos in the tar?
It's common tar, a hydro carbon so not toxic but I wouldn't eat it. Same a tar in roads paths etc. There is no asbestos in it.
I’m sorry I test products like this for a living and it on an individual basis there may be asbestos in the bitumen, but each building was made differently and some bitumen predates asbestos fibres present. To be safe sent a sample to a lab and find out.
The problem is not only asbestos, but polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs), which quite likely in the tar. It's carcinogenic, and can cause lung cancer for example if you breathe in the dust. Not the best thing to have in your home. There's a book called "Organic Indoor Air Pollutants" on Google books, which has a chapter on PAHs and parquet floors on page 48.
very bad job.... sanding process done only 20 %, no any level , ni fill the grain hard to tell what is in the video if you don't have idea what it has to be done ....
@Paul Robinson Hi, I am going to be laying some reclaimed parquet fingers (the small ones around 12cm by 2.5cm) onto concrete. I was wondering if you (or anyone) knew if it would be worth putting underlay down first as I see you don't here but I have had others say I should...? Thank you!
Did you get a response about this ?
@@yousifsuliman2446 hi, so when I put mine down I did not put any underlay down, just straight onto the concrete with the glue. It worked fine. It is only in a small area at our doorway so I cannot comment for bigger areas. Not an expert, just a DIYer, but I can't really even see how with this sort of parquet an underlay would work as I would think it would make the floor much less stable. If you've got stuff with tounge and groove or whatever I think an underlay would be fine though. Like I say though, I am not an expert just someone who's put down a few different wooden floors.
I’m going to put it on concrete also. Did you grind the floor and self level it first or did you not need to do that ?
@@yousifsuliman2446 I self levelled. My tip would just be to make sure you have enough self levelling compound, ideally with one person mixing and one person pouring/spreading
It will be nicer if sand flat before vanish
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Paul, Having trouble hearing all your audio as the level is too low. I hope you can increase the volume on future videos. Thanks.
Hi do u maybe have a number of someone who can put up those blocks for me?? I have them, please send me the numb
Can you come and do mine please lol
Looks too glossy on the finish!
It hadn't dried yet that's why. I was hoping he was Gunna put a video of it after it had dried. Oh well .
No sanding no filling and definitely no finishing you should of got Stevie wonder to do it
Just no
Hi - Does anyone know any good parquet floor fitters in / or willing to travel to North Wales, approx 5 miles from Pwllheli. I have approx 30sqm to install, however, it is oak reclaimed and needs cleaning of the bitumen etc too.
Hi pal dosnt need bitumin off
What a rubbish job, embarrassing to watch, hope nobody copies it and then has to contend with them popping up in time to come, well it won't be his problem as the bodger will have moved on to his next unsuspecting client.