Wow, SIMPLY FANTASTIC! I have been walking around for years doing the manual lens focusing wrong because someone instructed me otherwise. I really appreciate this! Thank you.
Thanks so much for this video. I have a Fuji xe3 and often get frustrated that some of my quick 'shoot from the hip' shots are not in focus. I've heard of zone focusing but i always struggled to wrap my head around it. This video explains it perfectly. Now I can't wait to go out and try it. Excellent video. Subscribed!
Jay, thank you for that video. I was wondering why I was not getting focusing distance on screen. Just received my xt3 with 16-80 lens. More of a learning curve from my old Pentax. I am blown away by the image stabilization on the lens. Got shots down to 1/1.2. Not bad!
Great video in terms of subject and clarity of explanation. Thanks Jay. I'm seriously considering buying an XT3 or 4 and 23 mm lens for street shooting using manual/zone focus (currently I use Canon system) and this helps a lot.
Large Indicator Mode, EVF and LCD must be turned off…….Thank you so much! Your videos are much more helpful than most of those American ones! I have studied German for 3 years while I was studying my Ph.D degree in Japan. I should’ve studied harder on my German. Thanks for your videos in English😂.
At 3:14 the focus meter shows everything between approx. 2.2 and 3.3 metres is in focus. The focus peaking shows that there is more in focus, even the windows on the building on the other side of the street which is at least 15 meters. One is wrong...
Focus Peaking is always right. :D It's my mistake, because the Setting "Depth of field Scale" was on "Pixel" instead of "Film Format". The difference: "Pixel" is used for images that you want to view magnified on very high resolution screens. The depth of field is much shallower here than with prints, where you want to use the „Film Format“ value for. Thx for watching.
Bought you a coffee for the last couple of mins on that vid, invaluable. I have been using an a6000 purely for manual lenses, it offers magnify and focus peaking. I find manual focus slow but enjoyable. The Fuji X-e3 has dropped in price to silly levels now and I'm thinking of getting one purely for manual glass. It has a better EVF, 2.3K vs 1.4K, and Fuji offer additional MF options such as split screen or digital micro prism. Are the additional MF modes any use or do you just find yourself using peaking and magnify? Maybe now I understand zone focus it won't matter 😁
Martin Macleod-Brown Thanks for this feedback and for the coffee of courser, I really appreciate it . I used to own an a6000 before I switched to Fuji. Great little camera! I tried out all the alternative MF Modes and I found the Microprism also quite useful. But after all I always return to peaking/magnification, so it seems to work best for me. If you can get your hands on a cheap X-E3 try it, it's a beast... Thx for watching!
Appreciated. If I could spell ausgesichnicht I'd say that! You know, that little 16-50 3.5 lens on a T2 is a super fast focusing wonder, and the closeups are around 3 inches from the lens. I think most people get it, but watch all these youtubes and park it. Since it's all I have for now, I'm going to let the sun shine on it. I know, a T2 with a kit lens...but the macro is awesome...
Excellent video! One trick I think you haven't mentioned is to set depth of field scale to 'film format' instead of pixel basis, this give a less strict and more generous depth of field.
Schade dass Du das mit "creensetup/Large indicators mode/(EVF and LCD) to be turned OFF" nicht auch noch in Deutsch gezeigt hast. Habe lange gesucht aber nicht gefunden.
Thanks for this. I have a Leica Summicron 28mm on an XPro3 with the official Fujifilm adapter. I’ve noticed, however, that the distance markings don’t seem to be accurate (I’ve taken out a tape measure and everything!) could this be due to to the adapter and if so are there any hard and fast rules about how to overcome this? (Eg 5 metres is really 6, a bit like how my 28mm lens is really a 40 on on an APS-C sensor)
Great tips & explanation on zone focusing. I like street but I currently have a Fuji point & shoot &Fuji s series bridge , neither good for zone focusing. Forgive my lack of camera knowledge but what type of camera do you recommend , DSLR or mirroless as I want to use zone focusing?
It doesn’t matter, if the lenses and/or the camera assist you in finding the zone. My experience with digital DSLRs is not big, but with my analog Minolta zone Focussing is also possible (you saw the corresponding lenses in this video). Thx for watching!
Please Make a explanation video on Exposure Compensation in Manual Mode and also the Photometry. I use Fujifilm X100F...And I don't understand how to use exposure compensation and Photometry with manual focus, Aperture Mode, Manual Shutter Speed and Auto ISO for Street Photography. I have watched your all of the Street photography lessons and also watched the Street photography by you where you use light and photometry most of the time. Thank you :-)
Brilliant Video !! One question - while using back button focus, the AF/MF distance scale on my XT3 does not work. If I revert to Shutter AF, then the distance scale does work. Is there any setting I am missing? Will be great to hear your thoughts.
Sorry for the late reply. I missed some comments while on vacation. I can't imagine why that could be. I've just tried it on the X100V and it works fine.
I have the XT-3 & do NOT have this problem when using back button focus. You may check to see if the large indicators are turned “off” in the camera menu for the LCD & EVF. If the large indicators are turned “on” in the camera menu, you CANNOT get the focus scale to appear in the view finder. Otherwise, Fuji may have to repair this issue.
Hey Josh. ISO and shutter speed can be auto because you want to compensate the fixed aperture automatically. But set up a minimum Shutter speed in the Auto ISO... Thx for watching!
Hi Jay, if I've set my zone focusing while waiting for the subject to appear and I switched off the camera, will the setting remained the same when I switch the camera on again ?
Yes, it should be like that. Because the lens should not change its focus when the camera is being turned off. I hope this is helpful. Thx for watching!
If you have a zoom lens on a Fuji, switch your camera to manual focus and turn on the option "MF distance indicator" on your EVF/LCD and set the zone as you wish on your zoom lens.
What I don't understand is that if I use an application (DOF), let's say a subject at 2m to 23mm f/8, I would have approximately a 1.2m to 4.9m (f/8) area. Great, but on my X-Pro3 the blue zone doesn't give at all the same values once the manual focus is done on an object or a person at 2m of distance. An explanation? I must be missing something. EDIT : When I choose "Film format basis" and not Pixel Basis, I finally have the good values. Don't know why, but it works with the same settings such as the application DOF.
Thanks for the video. I use zone focusing on my fuji Xpro3, with a Voigtlander 28mm lens (40 equivalent). But the distances indicated on the lens barrel seem incorrect. When it says 1m50 on the barrel, the focus (using the fuji's various options, including focus peaking) is closer to 2.30. This prevents me from going fast, by presetting the focus distance via the barrel, unless I do some mental calculation with some sort of correction coefficient... Is my lens faulty? Or is this discrepancy due to the delta between full-frame and Aps-C delta?
@@Jayshooter_photo Thanks Jay. It was on "Pixels". I've just tried "film format". But that doesn't solve my problem. Perhaps my explanation is not clear. Let's say I want to focus on an object 4 metres away. If I do this by relying on the indications on the lens barrel, then I realise (thanks to focus peaking or zoom) that this focus is not good. For it to be OK, I'd have to adjust the barrel a little below 3 metres (when the object is 4 metres away)...
Okay this is strange and not something I’ve experienced yet. I gave the hint regarding the film format because the scale is not accurate with the wrong settings. Maybe you should also check the image not only the peaking. BR!
It is because at that time I wasn't aware of the setting "Depth of field scale" that should have been set to "Film Format". Have a look at the other (and newer) video about ZF on the X100V. There it will be more clear: ua-cam.com/video/j1R1Vj_X_WY/v-deo.html Thx for watching!
Thank you very much, this focusing tip is really helpful. Now you did say that we can ask questions on this or any other topic (LOL), here is my problem/question. This is happening on my X-T2, when I transfer the SD card (Lexar UHS-II) to my computer (Windows 10) via a card reader, it creates multiple folders (on File Explorer) of photos that I took on the same day, so it’s not even from different days. Usually it’s 3 or more folders, this is very frustrating and time consuming. Any ideas/suggestions?
Enrique Thank you Enrique. I think it doesn't happen during the transfer process, the folders are already on your SD card, right? Have you ever played around with the „Save Data setting“, e.g. „Card Slot Settings“ and „Select Folder“ of the X-T2?
Hi, I have fujifil x-2h + Voigtlander Color Skopar 18 mm f/2.8 do Fujifilm X with analog scale, my question is: which method do I have to use to set up the focus zone: 1) analog scale on my lens or 2) electronic (blue line) in display on my camera. My question is an effect differences between values of focus zone showing on the blue line a focusing zone showing on analog scale, the only one compatibility in both methods is is focusing value, it means, if on my lens set up 1m focus, the same value is sowing on electronic scale, but zone focusing on both are different. So which method I should use? Regards Piotr
That was a helpful video. Thanks! You said it is difficult to do zone focusing with a manual lens at the widest example (let's say an f1.7 on Fuji). But compare this technique with focus peaking which one works faster/easier?
Erry Moestafa With f1.7 you can not rely on the zone focussing technique alone because the zone will be too small to hit it. So I always combine the two. But again: ZF is something for smaller apertures. Thanks for watching!
Not so good on the XF10 I got, need to go almost to F16 to get true infinity - The lens blurs background A LOT....I have searched the forums and others same issue with the XF10, I think the lens quality is sub par unless you do closer street all the time, which I will likely only use this in Snapmode for street ,works good but backgrounds are are still muddy look :o(. camera is Brand new! other than this issue build quality is nice.
Hi warum machst du eigentlich keine deutschen Videos mehr. Ich habe sie immer sehr gemocht und gerne gesehen. Leider ist mein Englisch mit the yellow of the egg. Schade😢
@@Jayshooter_photo sorry hast natürlich Recht. Hab ausversehen das falsche Video vom falschen (bzw. Du bist der bessere) creator kommentiert. Hatte das falsche Video aufgerufen. Deine Videos mag ich natürlich weiterhin sehr. Sehr gut gemacht und unheimlich informativ. Vielen Dank!
Thanks very much, great information! At 03:16 we see a screen capture of your screen, showing both the focus scale indicator and focus peaking active in red. The two seem not to agree at all. The focus scale shows 2-3.5 m (approximately) but the focus peaking shows as in focus a much deeper area: from the tiles on the pavement on front of you, up to the far away buildings across the road. What is happening? Both cannot be right. The difference is not minor, it is huge. Same in 04:52: scale bar shows 3 - 7 m (approx.) but again the buildings and the trees across the trees are lit by the focus peaking and they are definitely much further away than 7 meters. To be honest, I have been using this method of focusing with my X-T1, X-T2 and X-H1 but I never get consistent results and I cannot figure out where the issue is. Is focus peaking highly inaccurate? (like, very approximate?) Or is the focus scale bar not to be trusted? I tend to think that the scale bar is not reliable at all, but I may be mistaken. I would very much appreciate your thoughts on this. Many thanks!
From my experience I would say that the peaking is unfortunately not accurate. In the past, I also had this problem when I wanted to work with it without Zone Foucssing, especially with small apertures. Recently, however, during a portrait shoot with the X-T3 in a special situation, I used manual focus with peaking and there it was great (at aperture 1.2). So I think that focus peaking is perhaps more something for larger apertures ... In any case, I always rely more on the scale. Thanks for watching!
@@Jayshooter_photo Good to know, my impression was similar, that perhaps the distance scale is a more reliable indicator. But I had not noticed the difference based on the lens aperture, I will try it. I was also trying to use the (very approximate) rule of focusing one-third into the image (depth wise) to maximize depth of field (for any F/8 and smaller), using point focus to make sure where I focus. In these cases the camera seemed to focus "properly" but the focus peaking was all over the place. Unfortunately I noticed a similar randomness with the scale bar too - it was not showing what it should, based on where I was focusing and what my aperture was, then sometimes by re-focusing on the same exact spot the scale bar would change to something more realistic (or vice versa). I have been trying this for all distances (close, to a few meters, medium and long distances too). Well, it is what it is, I guess :-) Many thanks for the comments and insights!
The focus area (not a single point, that's what it's about) goes from the appropriate aperture on the left to the appropriate aperture on the right of the diamond. the focus ring is used to set the shortest and longest distance at these two points at which the image should be sharp.
Jayshooter oh ok. That makes sense. I think maybe I’m confused by the snap focus feature on my GR, but that makes sense that it’s a focus zone. Thank you!!
Wow, SIMPLY FANTASTIC! I have been walking around for years doing the manual lens focusing wrong because someone instructed me otherwise. I really appreciate this! Thank you.
Glad I could help…
I've watched plenty of YT vids trying to explain zone focusing to me without success, until yours! Thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
Hi I am a total beginer and don't know how to turn off the large indicator mode can you help thanks
Brilliant! Liked and subscribed of course!
i keep coming back to this video - such great info!!!!
Thanks for our feedback! Glad to help....
Thanks so much for this video. I have a Fuji xe3 and often get frustrated that some of my quick 'shoot from the hip' shots are not in focus. I've heard of zone focusing but i always struggled to wrap my head around it. This video explains it perfectly. Now I can't wait to go out and try it. Excellent video. Subscribed!
Philip McGuirk Thanks for watching and the kind feedback. Happy that I could help. 😉
You are the best one who explained this very well!! Thank you so much!!
You’re welcome. Glad if it’s helpful.
Many thanks for a great video . Ausgezeichnet ! Ich wünsche dir einen schönen Tag 🙏📸⭐️
Dankeschön! Den wünsche ich Dir ebenfalls. 😊
Jay, thank you for that video. I was wondering why I was not getting focusing distance on screen.
Just received my xt3 with 16-80 lens. More of a learning curve from my old Pentax.
I am blown away by the image stabilization on the lens. Got shots down to 1/1.2.
Not bad!
Jeffrey Rogers Did you also have the Problem with the large Icons? 😉
Have fun with your new gear...
Very informative! My new XT-30 arrives tomorrow and I can't wait to begin using my manual lenses!
Jerry justfnride Have fun with it! Thank you for watching.
Finally a video where they are explained well and without confusion. Thank you!!!
Castañeda You’re welcome. Thx for watching...
Thank you. This was a terrific, simple refresher in zone focusing in manual mode or with manual lenses.
Wayne Rogge You’re welcome! Thx for watching. Again. 😉
Thanks alot!!! I never had this exposure to my camera. Now i know how to maneuver my manual lens. Big ups👍👍👍 jay
You’re welcome. Glad if it was helpful…
Thanks... I have seen some videos for zone focusing. None was as clear as yours. Keep doing this kind of videos.
Thank you, that's really motivating!
Thanks for the clear explanation... really useful - thanks 🙏🙏
Glad it was helpful!
"These pieces of slowness" LLMMAAOOOO.. I LOVE THIS MAN!!!!!!!!!
: )
great video!!!!
Thank you! 🙏
Well described! Thanks! It is helpful for all who use manual and vintage lenses! ✌️
Thank you, Svetli...
Very good explanation, thank you very much Jochen.
Thank you for watching!
Good job! I subscribed. It opens up manual lenses for me.
Tapasya Tyaga Nice to hear that... thx for watching!
Great video
Thank you! 🙏🙏🙏
can I double like this?! the best explanation of zone focusing I've seen so far 👏
Wow, thanks! :D
Great Video, thanks. By the way, I just subscribed and am looking forward to more of your videos.
Thanks for your subscription. I appreciate it.
Great video in terms of subject and clarity of explanation. Thanks Jay. I'm seriously considering buying an XT3 or 4 and 23 mm lens for street shooting using manual/zone focus (currently I use Canon system) and this helps a lot.
Great combo. But if you have a little patience: There are rumors about an X-E4... Thx for watching.
Large Indicator Mode, EVF and LCD must be turned off…….Thank you so much! Your videos are much more helpful than most of those American ones! I have studied German for 3 years while I was studying my Ph.D degree in Japan. I should’ve studied harder on my German. Thanks for your videos in English😂.
Glad I could help.
Thanks a lot. Very well explained!
John Nevin You’re welcome and thanks for watching!
At 3:14 the focus meter shows everything between approx. 2.2 and 3.3 metres is in focus. The focus peaking shows that there is more in focus, even the windows on the building on the other side of the street which is at least 15 meters. One is wrong...
Focus Peaking is always right. :D It's my mistake, because the Setting "Depth of field Scale" was on "Pixel" instead of "Film Format". The difference: "Pixel" is used for images that you want to view magnified on very high resolution screens. The depth of field is much shallower here than with prints, where you want to use the „Film Format“ value for. Thx for watching.
Excellent video. Thank you !!!
Thanks for watching!
Bought you a coffee for the last couple of mins on that vid, invaluable. I have been using an a6000 purely for manual lenses, it offers magnify and focus peaking. I find manual focus slow but enjoyable. The Fuji X-e3 has dropped in price to silly levels now and I'm thinking of getting one purely for manual glass. It has a better EVF, 2.3K vs 1.4K, and Fuji offer additional MF options such as split screen or digital micro prism. Are the additional MF modes any use or do you just find yourself using peaking and magnify? Maybe now I understand zone focus it won't matter 😁
Martin Macleod-Brown Thanks for this feedback and for the coffee of courser, I really appreciate it . I used to own an a6000 before I switched to Fuji. Great little camera! I tried out all the alternative MF Modes and I found the Microprism also quite useful. But after all I always return to peaking/magnification, so it seems to work best for me. If you can get your hands on a cheap X-E3 try it, it's a beast... Thx for watching!
Appreciated. If I could spell ausgesichnicht I'd say that! You know, that little 16-50 3.5 lens on a T2 is a super fast focusing wonder, and the closeups are around 3 inches from the lens. I think most people get it, but watch all these youtubes and park it. Since it's all I have for now, I'm going to let the sun shine on it. I know, a T2 with a kit lens...but the macro is awesome...
Whatever works for you is the best choice! Have fun!
It's beautifully put. One thing I want to mention here is that the manual focus indicator does not work if it's a third party lens.
Yea, because they don't have any connection to the electronics of the camera. This is why you have to work with the markings... Thx for watching.
well explained ...Good job and thanx
Thank you! And thx for watching...
amazing, very good info.
Thx for watching.
Great video, glad to subscribe 👍
Joe Richard Thank you, I appreciate it!
Thank you so much, love your videos)))
Robert Rosberg Thank you, I appreciate that!
Excellent video! One trick I think you haven't mentioned is to set depth of field scale to 'film format' instead of pixel basis, this give a less strict and more generous depth of field.
Good point! I mentioned it in my later video with the X100V. but at that time I wasn't aware of it....
You made my day👍
Glad I could help! Thx for watching...
As always, great fun to watch!!
Thx, mate.
@ 6:15 min, My Fujinon 35 mm 1:2 R WR has no meter scale, just a 16 to 2 scale and an endless turning wheel on the front with no scale at all.
Of course it hasn't as it is no manual lens.
Schade dass Du das mit "creensetup/Large indicators mode/(EVF and LCD) to be turned OFF" nicht auch noch in Deutsch gezeigt hast. Habe lange gesucht aber nicht gefunden.
Thanks for this. I have a Leica Summicron 28mm on an XPro3 with the official Fujifilm adapter. I’ve noticed, however, that the distance markings don’t seem to be accurate (I’ve taken out a tape measure and everything!) could this be due to to the adapter and if so are there any hard and fast rules about how to overcome this? (Eg 5 metres is really 6, a bit like how my 28mm lens is really a 40 on on an APS-C sensor)
Can you use the back button focus technique you demonstrated on a manual focus only lens like the Pergear 25mm 1.8? I have an XT30.
No, because it’s a manual focus lens. The backbutton focus is an autofocus triggered by a button.
@@Jayshooter_photo Okay, Thank you so much for replying.
Great tips & explanation on zone focusing. I like street but I currently have a Fuji point & shoot &Fuji s series bridge , neither good for zone focusing. Forgive my lack of camera knowledge but what type of camera do you recommend , DSLR or mirroless as I want to use zone focusing?
It doesn’t matter, if the lenses and/or the camera assist you in finding the zone. My experience with digital DSLRs is not big, but with my analog Minolta zone Focussing is also possible (you saw the corresponding lenses in this video). Thx for watching!
@@Jayshooter_photo Thanks for your reply. 😉
Thank you!
You’re welcome. Thx for watching!
Please Make a explanation video on Exposure Compensation in Manual Mode and also the Photometry. I use Fujifilm X100F...And I don't understand how to use exposure compensation and Photometry with manual focus, Aperture Mode, Manual Shutter Speed and Auto ISO for Street Photography.
I have watched your all of the Street photography lessons and also watched the Street photography by you where you use light and photometry most of the time.
Thank you :-)
Let's see, I will think about it. At the moment I am working on some other content. But thanks for the feedback and for watching!
Thanks!!!
You’re welcome! Thx for watching...
Brilliant Video !! One question - while using back button focus, the AF/MF distance scale on my XT3 does not work. If I revert to Shutter AF, then the distance scale does work. Is there any setting I am missing? Will be great to hear your thoughts.
Sorry for the late reply. I missed some comments while on vacation. I can't imagine why that could be. I've just tried it on the X100V and it works fine.
I have the XT-3 & do NOT have this problem when using back button focus. You may check to see if the large indicators are turned “off” in the camera menu for the LCD & EVF. If the large indicators are turned “on” in the camera menu, you CANNOT get the focus scale to appear in the view finder. Otherwise, Fuji may have to repair this issue.
Cool video, thanks
Thank you!
if i had this zone focusing method set up, can i still shoot in Auto mode for ISO and Shutter speed or is it all manual? thanks
Hey Josh. ISO and shutter speed can be auto because you want to compensate the fixed aperture automatically. But set up a minimum Shutter speed in the Auto ISO... Thx for watching!
Hi Jay, if I've set my zone focusing while waiting for the subject to appear and I switched off the camera, will the setting remained the same when I switch the camera on again ?
Yes, it should be like that. Because the lens should not change its focus when the camera is being turned off. I hope this is helpful. Thx for watching!
@@Jayshooter_photo Thanks Jay for the reply.
great video, thx
Alain Lafleche Thanks, Alain!
Thank u for this video.
Can i use zone focussing a nikon 1.8d on a fuji xt2 ?
If it's correctly adapted and the scale is still visible on the housing you can of course do that. Thx for watching!
What if we dont have the manuel lens? Whats the Best alternative in zoom lensrs. Thanks.
If you have a zoom lens on a Fuji, switch your camera to manual focus and turn on the option "MF distance indicator" on your EVF/LCD and set the zone as you wish on your zoom lens.
@@Jayshooter_photo Thank you so much, i will try.
What I don't understand is that if I use an application (DOF), let's say a subject at 2m to 23mm f/8, I would have approximately a 1.2m to 4.9m (f/8) area. Great, but on my X-Pro3 the blue zone doesn't give at all the same values once the manual focus is done on an object or a person at 2m of distance. An explanation? I must be missing something.
EDIT : When I choose "Film format basis" and not Pixel Basis, I finally have the good values. Don't know why, but it works with the same settings such as the application DOF.
Unfortunately I don't own this app, so I can't help with that. But seems to be fixed anyway... ;) Thx for watching....!
Thanks for the video. I use zone focusing on my fuji Xpro3, with a Voigtlander 28mm lens (40 equivalent). But the distances indicated on the lens barrel seem incorrect. When it says 1m50 on the barrel, the focus (using the fuji's various options, including focus peaking) is closer to 2.30. This prevents me from going fast, by presetting the focus distance via the barrel, unless I do some mental calculation with some sort of correction coefficient... Is my lens faulty? Or is this discrepancy due to the delta between full-frame and Aps-C delta?
Did you set up the depth of field scale to „Film Format“ instead of „Pixel“?
@@Jayshooter_photo Thanks Jay. It was on "Pixels". I've just tried "film format". But that doesn't solve my problem. Perhaps my explanation is not clear. Let's say I want to focus on an object 4 metres away. If I do this by relying on the indications on the lens barrel, then I realise (thanks to focus peaking or zoom) that this focus is not good. For it to be OK, I'd have to adjust the barrel a little below 3 metres (when the object is 4 metres away)...
Okay this is strange and not something I’ve experienced yet. I gave the hint regarding the film format because the scale is not accurate with the wrong settings. Maybe you should also check the image not only the peaking. BR!
at 3:08, it shows the "zone" as 2m-3m. why is the red focus assist outlining everything (buildings and trees way in the back) passed the 2m-3m zone ?
It is because at that time I wasn't aware of the setting "Depth of field scale" that should have been set to "Film Format". Have a look at the other (and newer) video about ZF on the X100V. There it will be more clear: ua-cam.com/video/j1R1Vj_X_WY/v-deo.html
Thx for watching!
V good
;)
Thank you very much, this focusing tip is really helpful. Now you did say that we can ask questions on this or any other topic (LOL), here is my problem/question. This is happening on my X-T2, when I transfer the SD card (Lexar UHS-II) to my computer (Windows 10) via a card reader, it creates multiple folders (on File Explorer) of photos that I took on the same day, so it’s not even from different days. Usually it’s 3 or more folders, this is very frustrating and time consuming. Any ideas/suggestions?
Enrique Thank you Enrique.
I think it doesn't happen during the transfer process, the folders are already on your SD card, right? Have you ever played around with the „Save Data setting“, e.g. „Card Slot Settings“ and „Select Folder“ of the X-T2?
Hi, I have fujifil x-2h + Voigtlander Color Skopar 18 mm f/2.8 do Fujifilm X with analog scale, my question is: which method do I have to use to set up the focus zone: 1) analog scale on my lens or 2) electronic (blue line) in display on my camera. My question is an effect differences between values of focus zone showing on the blue line a focusing zone showing on analog scale, the only one compatibility in both methods is is focusing value, it means, if on my lens set up 1m focus, the same value is sowing on electronic scale, but zone focusing on both are different. So which method I should use? Regards Piotr
Did you check the pixel- and film format setting? should be film format... I would rely more on the camera, if you set up the focal length right.
@@Jayshooter_photo it works :) changed on film format 👍👍 thank you
@ 4:40 min, my scale on the XT-1 shows only Fn1 - to Fn7 . No Af-L at all. Does it not work with the XT-1?
To be honest: I really don't know, as my entry into the Fujifilm World was the X-T3. Sorry...
That was a helpful video. Thanks! You said it is difficult to do zone focusing with a manual lens at the widest example (let's say an f1.7 on Fuji). But compare this technique with focus peaking which one works faster/easier?
Erry Moestafa With f1.7 you can not rely on the zone focussing technique alone because the zone will be too small to hit it. So I always combine the two. But again: ZF is something for smaller apertures. Thanks for watching!
@@Jayshooter_photo Ok. Danke für Deine Erklärung.
Bitteschön! 😀
Not so good on the XF10 I got, need to go almost to F16 to get true infinity - The lens blurs background A LOT....I have searched the forums and others same issue with the XF10, I think the lens quality is sub par unless you do closer street all the time, which I will likely only use this in Snapmode for street ,works good but backgrounds are are still muddy look :o(. camera is Brand new! other than this issue build quality is nice.
Mmmh. I have no experience with this camera, even if I had it on my radar shortly to replace my X70.
@@Jayshooter_photo I used to have a X70 too, They should have made a X80, will not thou....am getting a X100V today :o)
Hi warum machst du eigentlich keine deutschen Videos mehr. Ich habe sie immer sehr gemocht und gerne gesehen. Leider ist mein Englisch mit the yellow of the egg. Schade😢
Häh? Das Video ist vier Jahre alt. Ich mache seit 2021 nur noch deutschsprachige Videos…
@@Jayshooter_photo sorry hast natürlich Recht. Hab ausversehen das falsche Video vom falschen (bzw. Du bist der bessere) creator kommentiert. Hatte das falsche Video aufgerufen. Deine Videos mag ich natürlich weiterhin sehr. Sehr gut gemacht und unheimlich informativ. Vielen Dank!
Thanks very much, great information! At 03:16 we see a screen capture of your screen, showing both the focus scale indicator and focus peaking active in red. The two seem not to agree at all. The focus scale shows 2-3.5 m (approximately) but the focus peaking shows as in focus a much deeper area: from the tiles on the pavement on front of you, up to the far away buildings across the road. What is happening? Both cannot be right. The difference is not minor, it is huge. Same in 04:52: scale bar shows 3 - 7 m (approx.) but again the buildings and the trees across the trees are lit by the focus peaking and they are definitely much further away than 7 meters.
To be honest, I have been using this method of focusing with my X-T1, X-T2 and X-H1 but I never get consistent results and I cannot figure out where the issue is. Is focus peaking highly inaccurate? (like, very approximate?) Or is the focus scale bar not to be trusted? I tend to think that the scale bar is not reliable at all, but I may be mistaken. I would very much appreciate your thoughts on this. Many thanks!
From my experience I would say that the peaking is unfortunately not accurate. In the past, I also had this problem when I wanted to work with it without Zone Foucssing, especially with small apertures. Recently, however, during a portrait shoot with the X-T3 in a special situation, I used manual focus with peaking and there it was great (at aperture 1.2). So I think that focus peaking is perhaps more something for larger apertures ... In any case, I always rely more on the scale. Thanks for watching!
@@Jayshooter_photo Good to know, my impression was similar, that perhaps the distance scale is a more reliable indicator. But I had not noticed the difference based on the lens aperture, I will try it. I was also trying to use the (very approximate) rule of focusing one-third into the image (depth wise) to maximize depth of field (for any F/8 and smaller), using point focus to make sure where I focus. In these cases the camera seemed to focus "properly" but the focus peaking was all over the place. Unfortunately I noticed a similar randomness with the scale bar too - it was not showing what it should, based on where I was focusing and what my aperture was, then sometimes by re-focusing on the same exact spot the scale bar would change to something more realistic (or vice versa). I have been trying this for all distances (close, to a few meters, medium and long distances too). Well, it is what it is, I guess :-) Many thanks for the comments and insights!
Hi. So, do you set your focus point at the centre diamond or at the corresponding aperture to the left of the diamond?
The focus area (not a single point, that's what it's about) goes from the appropriate aperture on the left to the appropriate aperture on the right of the diamond. the focus ring is used to set the shortest and longest distance at these two points at which the image should be sharp.
Jayshooter oh ok. That makes sense. I think maybe I’m confused by the snap focus feature on my GR, but that makes sense that it’s a focus zone. Thank you!!
Nice video, but i have a question Can i zone focus with 7artisans lenses?
Yes, you can. I tried the 35mm f1.2, it has the markings for zone focussing on top and as far as I know, they all have. Thx for watching!
great video
Thanks, Nikos!