I believe that's right. As it's class A, my understanding is it doesn't need to be biased. I'm no expert, but I believe class B amps move the zero point of the audio waveform away from the exact crossover point where class B, push pull, amplification switches from one (set) to the other (set) of valves. Biasing is where one half of the waveform is set to be complementary to the other, somehow :). This moves a nonlinearity away from where it would be easily heard. With class A, this zero point is half way into the power range of a single or single set of valves. This is why class A is much less efficient, even when there's no signal to be amplified, it's effectively still drawing half the maximum power requirement. Now, take that will a monstrous pile of salt, that's my understanding and if anyone knows better, I'm more than happy to be told I'm wrong. I'm also aware this is a simplification. What I can say, is my HT-5 (non R) stopped working. When I opened it up I could see one of the valves was not glowing. I purchased a replacement set, installed them all everything was hunky dory, the amp sounded at least as good as I remembered it. I did nothing other than open the cab, carefully replace the tubes (I even used a static free cloth to handle the new ones, I think this is probably overkill but I wanted to be sure) and screw it all back together.
It's a fixed bias...so no changing of bias is possible. What I did notised is after changing a JJ tube for the stock TAD tube, it really gave a ever lasting hum...not load but pritty disturbing, so I changed the TAD back again and no hum.. the JJ was the same type of tube so I advise you to get the same TAD tube if you're getting into swapping.
Not a hybrid in the classic sense. I've had mine for 11 years. And it has the diode clipping circuitry. Which of course is solid state. Unlike other hybrids the Poweramp is also tube on this. So you can say it has a built-in overdrive pedal.
This is a cathode biased amp right? No need to rebias the power tube when replacing it with a new one?
I believe that's right. As it's class A, my understanding is it doesn't need to be biased. I'm no expert, but I believe class B amps move the zero point of the audio waveform away from the exact crossover point where class B, push pull, amplification switches from one (set) to the other (set) of valves. Biasing is where one half of the waveform is set to be complementary to the other, somehow :). This moves a nonlinearity away from where it would be easily heard. With class A, this zero point is half way into the power range of a single or single set of valves. This is why class A is much less efficient, even when there's no signal to be amplified, it's effectively still drawing half the maximum power requirement.
Now, take that will a monstrous pile of salt, that's my understanding and if anyone knows better, I'm more than happy to be told I'm wrong. I'm also aware this is a simplification.
What I can say, is my HT-5 (non R) stopped working. When I opened it up I could see one of the valves was not glowing. I purchased a replacement set, installed them all everything was hunky dory, the amp sounded at least as good as I remembered it. I did nothing other than open the cab, carefully replace the tubes (I even used a static free cloth to handle the new ones, I think this is probably overkill but I wanted to be sure) and screw it all back together.
Do I need set a bias when I change the tubes in this 1W kombo?
It's a fixed bias...so no changing of bias is possible.
What I did notised is after changing a JJ tube for the stock TAD tube, it really gave a ever lasting hum...not load but pritty disturbing, so I changed the TAD back again and no hum.. the JJ was the same type of tube so I advise you to get the same TAD tube if you're getting into swapping.
@@theinitiated6147 not balanced will hum like mad get a balanced value no hum
@@theinitiated6147 I used JJ valves when I replaced mine, no issues.
If it's a valve amp. Why is there two whacking great transistors in the middle? Or is this a hybrid
Not a hybrid in the classic sense. I've had mine for 11 years. And it has the diode clipping circuitry. Which of course is solid state. Unlike other hybrids the Poweramp is also tube on this. So you can say it has a built-in overdrive pedal.
Phase inverter is solid state.
All surface mount 🙁
Pure junk don't buy them
any other recommendation in that price range?
I used to own one, it was awesome! About to buy it again...
Nahhh your playing is just ass
I love mine and it sounds great 🙂 Had it about 2 years. What problems have you had?
Andertons sell them for £179 - so about the same price as 1 Waza Craft pedal. What do you expect, a hand-wired boutique amp?