Silicates cure with CO2. I use some small amount of baking powder in the mix to have it cure from the inside when heated. Since yours is potassium silicate you may want to use some potassium bicarbonate, analogous to the sodium bicarbonate in baking powder.
Follow-up to my previous. If insulation is your goal, you may want to try perlite instead of just alumina. Alumina is dense and conducts heat far more than perlite which is porous, and for me perlite was also a lot cheaper which always helps.
When water glass (sodium silicate) is mixed with aluminum oxide (Al₂O₃) and fired at high temperatures, a composite material is formed, primarily consisting of nepheline, a mineral that contains both sodium and aluminum silicates. This reaction occurs as the sodium silicate interacts with alumina during the firing process, typically at temperatures exceeding 700°C. The resulting material exhibits enhanced fireproof properties and thermal insulation characteristics due to the formation of a heat-insulating layer from water vapor released during dehydration of water glass.The addition of alumina not only improves the mechanical strength and durability of the composite but also stabilizes the melt, preventing crystallization and ensuring a more glass-like structure upon cooling. This composite is particularly useful in applications requiring high-temperature resistance and insulation, making it suitable for use in fireproofing materials and thermal barriers in various industrial applications.
I think my commenters make this channel better than it actually is and i thank you for that . You can learn so much from a scholarly individual or the specialist like yourself .
Hey mate, non Newtonian fluid is the word you were looking for. Good info in this video thanks. I'm currently building a foundry using potassium silicate in my DIY refractory concrete, got the idea from your previous videos.
Note - I will eventually get around to uploading a video about it, but if you want to make your own mix please do not use only Portland cement, it will explode, use 1:1 Portland and lime mortar. The rest of the mix is up to you, but I think I have a good mix going with accessible materials.
@@NOBOX7No worries 👍 That additional note wasn't for you, I know you know that, I just noticed on Google that the first result for DIY refractory concrete doesn't use lime, so wanted to warn people reading my comment about that. I managed to get my hands on cheap pure CaO that is used in pond purification apparently, but I guess people could use lime plaster, though I'm not sure what the ratio of lime to aggregate is in that.
Aluminum phosphate is used as a high temperature binder, its melting point is 1800°C. Refractory plastic is a mixture of pure refractory clay, tabular alumina or molten and aluminum phosphate, at 700°C the aluminum phosphate crystallizes giving a hard structure.
This channel never disappoints. I have one of your burners, I think "Godzilla" or something like that. It is, RIDICULOUS. If I wanted to melt the sun and cast it into something else, it would do that.
Guys when i say i cant get any thing to stick on metal im referring to the cool down cycle of red hot metal . It will stick to metal very well and sticks to red hot steel just fine but im trying to coat stainless
I've been doing parkerizing metals, it forms manganese phosphate crystal web around ferrous metals, idk the adhesion strength of those crystals to the metal, but I know that it was widely used since ww2 in famous weapons like the garand and the 1911 pistol to prevent rust. Now is my go-to choice to rust prevention, better than bluing, it holds oil like a champ between the crystals and protects from wear and is easy and quick to apply, maybe it can be useful to glue steels with your formula.
The potassium silicate preparation in question, for anyone who had trouble seeing the label on the bottle: 45% H20 331mL 32% SiO2 240g 21% KOH 160g I don't know what the last 2% was.
glue fire bricks.....that can be business, man. I can imagine making a portable aluminum furnace powered by oxy torch or whatever burner that can set up quick and cheap, smell like money, my friend!
As i said in ur last comment.... Now add some KOH to it (pre disolved in distilled water but as little water as u can use it) now get yourself some fly ash or go to a crafts store amd buy a block of white clay. Heat the clay untill you cant heat no more then bust that shit up blend it up as fine as you possabley can till it want to blow around like the ash from a burned kleenex use like 75% weight or something in that range. Throw it all into a pot and use a high speed drill (much faster than a drill can spin the key is high shear)
When are u gonna make crucibles for melting cast iron or other metals your experimentation is beyond expectations you are a over achiever keep on trucking
When you have low porosity ceramics, you just have to pre-prime the surfaces a little bit with either water, or your water glass alone, just a tiny thin film, and it will allow your alumina to bond more effectively.
Your spot on . I remembered my old concrete buddy told me if you want concrete to stick you gotta wet it first and the dry substrate will suck water out of the mix . I love your idea to drop a film of water glass , i just sprayed water and it helped alot
I think it would be good stuff for that with some abrasive sand . If your refuring to the type used in furnaces and forges to cover the aluminum silicate fiber blankets
This is potassium silicate which can stand higher temperatures as sodium silicate, aka waterglass. It depends on the water content of the silicate, the ratio of ions to oxides, the nature of the ion and the cure. If it goes soft, it didn't harden well. A lot of trial and error involved. It cures with CO2, so a good addition is plain old baking powder.
See my water glass videos to learn how to make the potassium silicate binder
@@NOBOX7 water glass aluminum oxide and carbide sand makes a nice refractory for crucibles.
Silicates cure with CO2. I use some small amount of baking powder in the mix to have it cure from the inside when heated. Since yours is potassium silicate you may want to use some potassium bicarbonate, analogous to the sodium bicarbonate in baking powder.
Follow-up to my previous. If insulation is your goal, you may want to try perlite instead of just alumina. Alumina is dense and conducts heat far more than perlite which is porous, and for me perlite was also a lot cheaper which always helps.
When water glass (sodium silicate) is mixed with aluminum oxide (Al₂O₃) and fired at high temperatures, a composite material is formed, primarily consisting of nepheline, a mineral that contains both sodium and aluminum silicates. This reaction occurs as the sodium silicate interacts with alumina during the firing process, typically at temperatures exceeding 700°C. The resulting material exhibits enhanced fireproof properties and thermal insulation characteristics due to the formation of a heat-insulating layer from water vapor released during dehydration of water glass.The addition of alumina not only improves the mechanical strength and durability of the composite but also stabilizes the melt, preventing crystallization and ensuring a more glass-like structure upon cooling. This composite is particularly useful in applications requiring high-temperature resistance and insulation, making it suitable for use in fireproofing materials and thermal barriers in various industrial applications.
I think my commenters make this channel better than it actually is and i thank you for that . You can learn so much from a scholarly individual or the specialist like yourself .
Hey mate, non Newtonian fluid is the word you were looking for. Good info in this video thanks. I'm currently building a foundry using potassium silicate in my DIY refractory concrete, got the idea from your previous videos.
Note - I will eventually get around to uploading a video about it, but if you want to make your own mix please do not use only Portland cement, it will explode, use 1:1 Portland and lime mortar. The rest of the mix is up to you, but I think I have a good mix going with accessible materials.
Right on brother , i new there was a word for it .
@@NOBOX7No worries 👍 That additional note wasn't for you, I know you know that, I just noticed on Google that the first result for DIY refractory concrete doesn't use lime, so wanted to warn people reading my comment about that. I managed to get my hands on cheap pure CaO that is used in pond purification apparently, but I guess people could use lime plaster, though I'm not sure what the ratio of lime to aggregate is in that.
Aluminum phosphate is used as a high temperature binder, its melting point is 1800°C. Refractory plastic is a mixture of pure refractory clay, tabular alumina or molten and aluminum phosphate, at 700°C the aluminum phosphate crystallizes giving a hard structure.
This channel never disappoints. I have one of your burners, I think "Godzilla" or something like that. It is, RIDICULOUS. If I wanted to melt the sun and cast it into something else, it would do that.
Thanks for sharing your experience and knowledge. I love this video ❤
Guys when i say i cant get any thing to stick on metal im referring to the cool down cycle of red hot metal . It will stick to metal very well and sticks to red hot steel just fine but im trying to coat stainless
I've been doing parkerizing metals, it forms manganese phosphate crystal web around ferrous metals, idk the adhesion strength of those crystals to the metal, but I know that it was widely used since ww2 in famous weapons like the garand and the 1911 pistol to prevent rust.
Now is my go-to choice to rust prevention, better than bluing, it holds oil like a champ between the crystals and protects from wear and is easy and quick to apply, maybe it can be useful to glue steels with your formula.
I wonder if it works on stainless , Great input though . That would make a good crystal base for adhesions
Try making black oxide solution. Its more consistent than parkerizing
@@preciousplasticph its hot caustic bluing with potassium nitrate?
Damn... i love this channel! Always learn something new.
The potassium silicate preparation in question, for anyone who had trouble seeing the label on the bottle:
45% H20 331mL
32% SiO2 240g
21% KOH 160g
I don't know what the last 2% was.
Excellent work!
Exactly as I knew it would work!
glue fire bricks.....that can be business, man. I can imagine making a portable aluminum furnace powered by oxy torch or whatever burner that can set up quick and cheap, smell like money, my friend!
Good discovery, thanks
As i said in ur last comment.... Now add some KOH to it (pre disolved in distilled water but as little water as u can use it) now get yourself some fly ash or go to a crafts store amd buy a block of white clay. Heat the clay untill you cant heat no more then bust that shit up blend it up as fine as you possabley can till it want to blow around like the ash from a burned kleenex use like 75% weight or something in that range.
Throw it all into a pot and use a high speed drill (much faster than a drill can spin the key is high shear)
very interesting and thanks for sharing. id like to see it tested while at temperature
Sorry about the volume Its a new software
Those bricks could be corderite or magnesium aluminium silicate. Kiln shelves are made of this.
When are u gonna make crucibles for melting cast iron or other metals your experimentation is beyond expectations you are a over achiever keep on trucking
I wonder if the material was to be cured under a vacuum and made it more durable…🤔
When you have low porosity ceramics, you just have to pre-prime the surfaces a little bit with either water, or your water glass alone, just a tiny thin film, and it will allow your alumina to bond more effectively.
Your spot on . I remembered my old concrete buddy told me if you want concrete to stick you gotta wet it first and the dry substrate will suck water out of the mix . I love your idea to drop a film of water glass , i just sprayed water and it helped alot
is potassium silicate water glass the same water glass you made or what is it made of
How about adding in variable sized aluminum oxide pieces? This might help stop crazing during the initial curing process.
will it give an advantage and paint my forge with it inside
It'd be cool to see if this is a better rigidizer than waterglass alone.
I think it would be good stuff for that with some abrasive sand . If your refuring to the type used in furnaces and forges to cover the aluminum silicate fiber blankets
I've seen diy firebrick made with waterglass soften at higher temperatures. Does this material do the same or is it resistant to softening?
This is potassium silicate which can stand higher temperatures as sodium silicate, aka waterglass. It depends on the water content of the silicate, the ratio of ions to oxides, the nature of the ion and the cure. If it goes soft, it didn't harden well. A lot of trial and error involved. It cures with CO2, so a good addition is plain old baking powder.
Boron Nitride might be interesting in the formulation....
Will this work as well with sodium silicate instead of potassium silicate?
yes
non-newtonian fluid.
It's a non-newtonian fluid.