Again you impress me with the details of the work you do in front of camera as well as behind the camera 👏🏻 Good to see you have a little bit of OCD when it comes to same bolts as well, nothing irritates me more than when you need 5 different tools to do easy work on a bike 🤣I feel you frustration when it comes to the porjects escalating a little, but me as a viewer are really happy with that 🙈🎥 I really can't wait to see how this works out in the end. Cheers
Glad to hear that Chokkan 👍 A 3D printer is very useful as long as you take your time to learn 3D modelling. I am still learning, but staring to get the hang of it now 😊
I'm really surprised that I found a video like this. Because lately I've been thinking of a way to fabricate my own plastic parts for my dirtbike. Mainly fork guards maybe number plates, who knows really. I just wanted to give it a shot & see what I could come up with & see how good they would look. I really like the little things that you have made like the plastic washers & things to cover visible holes with. Very interesting. I myself don't own a machine to fabricate plastic parts but would like to purchase one in the future because I believe it could be a great help for so many things especially for a dirtbike that has lots of plastic made pieces. Very much enjoyed your video & will be watching any future videos that you post.
Thanks for your reply 😊 I have had my 3D printer for several years now, and I use it all the time for all kind of projects and repairs. I have to warn you: it is hot hassle free. The machine requires frequently maintenance and sometimes it needs to be repaired when stuff breaks or parts wears out. It takes some time to master 3D modelling as well (if you want to design your own parts). This hobby is best suited for a patient person. It is however great fun and very satisfying to be able to manufacture own parts when you master the skill and the machine works as intended 😁 My last print was a replacement seal for my shower cabinet glass wall. The old seal was broken, the cabinet is old and I could not find a replacement seal anywhere locally so the solution was to print one. My printers print bed is 23x23cm (9x9inches), I can print slim parts diagonally a bit larger but I had to print it in two parts to get the 45cm (18inches) length I needed. I would recommend buying a printer with at least a 30x30cm bed, perhaps even 35x35 (14x14inches).
I was impressed with the new lights. I didn't like the idea at first, but the results were amazing. The 3D printer is absolutely amazing; your skills always impress me.
Thanks 😊 I find the 3D printer very useful for doing small repairs, improvements and modifications. The small LED indicators are OK, but I would like to change them to slightly bigger ones if I can find any.
hi k! the bike is really coming along nicely. the turng lights look great. i converted to led too but after two near crashes bc i forgot to turn the signal off i had to put a strong buzzer in the circuit.. it proved helpful with pedestrians too bc nowadays people seem to cross the street looking at their phones. thanks for sharing. take care. peter
Ahh, it is very easy to forget to turn of the indicators 😔 I will probably have to fix the non-blinking warning lights - or perhaps adding self cancelling turn signals would be even better 🤔
Yes, you're right. It's very strange as it is now, can't get used to it at all 😝 I have however bought some new old school indicators that is more similar to the original ones, just a bit smaller with very flexible arm to avoid them break easily. They have regular light bulbs, so I'll most likely go back to using the relay that way 😔
Ahh, I did not know that, Cagiva was not a big brand and they did not sell all over the world. I have several motorcycles from Japan myself (Honda / Yamaha) and they are great as well, but I have to say that my Cagiva feels a bit more unique 😊
Good idea, I actually have a scanner somewhere 👍😊 I have taken pictures with my camera. it is somewhat helpful but the camera lens distort the shape slightly and it's hard to be exact 90 degree angle to the subject when taking the shot. I think I'll try your suggestion next time, it's probably much more accurate. Thanks a lot for your tips! 🙂
I prefer indicators were the light can be seen from 90 degree angle in case a vehicle drivers or pedestrians are not straight in front of behind the motorcycle. The original indicator glass stands out from the casing and can be seen from the side
Ahh, that is a very good point 💡 Never really thought about it, but what you say makes sense. I am fairly satisfied with the 3D Printed mounting adapter for the small indicators, everything works well. However, I am not quite sure if they fit the bike design-wise. I will probably try to find bigger ones, possibly with orange glass, it might be more suitable for an old bike. I have bought new arms for the original front indicators, and I will try to source a pair of the original ones for the rear. I might revert back to the originals, if I can find a complete set 😊
Agree, would like to put on similar type of bolts with hex head, they could have been a bit more shiny a well. I did not find any stainless steel - chamfered hex bolts locally, so I went for those with Philips heads for now, but will change them if I can find hex type 👍
3D Prints are not as strong as injection molded plastics, for example I would not think a 3D printed rear fender will be strong enough. In this video I just make the cover on top of the rear fender, ant it does not have to cary any load. There are different type of plastics possible to use for 3D prints, some are stronger than others. Unfortunately, the strongest and most durable types of 3D print filament are the most difficult to print. An alternative is to use 3D printing to make a mold, and then make the piece more traditionally using fibreglass and epoxy resin.
At the very start of the journey to hopefully get some Cagiva/Husqvarna 1988 WRK250 unobtainable rad shrouds & decals scanned and reproduced. The originals are chalky and will crack easily 😢
@@kihestad building this bike to ride Vintage Enduro events. Want reproduction plastics and seat so the originals can be preserved. The value of these old Cagiva Husqvarna bikes has gone through the roof and finding OEM parts is drying up. I am somewhat to blame for that 😉 found the unicorn item recently: NOS OEM barrel and piston assembly. Love your work 👍🇦🇺
That's very cool! And yes, I struggle finding parts to my Cagiva as well 🥴 These rare bikes are definitely worth fixing, the value will just increase with time. It's also much more fun to own and ride a bike with an unique history 👍😊
@@kihestad that's along the lines of what i have been telling myself every time return to the project. I've owned the bike since 1995. It's been unridden since 97 Full engine rebuild, new clutch basket and plates, rebuilt the shocks and found the axle clamps cracked. 🤦♂️ I gave up on it for years... Sort of pre internet back then. Since, I've slowly accumulated OEM NOS parts to future proof it. Stripped the rims and found they were severely corroded and cracked (death trap), so had new Excel Takasago rims with new spokes put on my freshly powder coated hubs. Did nothing for 5 years now got the bug again. Since the Vintage Enduro scene has really kicked off, it's apparent that my bike is worth more now than everything I've spent on it. My time not included 🤣 Have a Vinduro event in a few months I'm now working towards entering as my incentive to finally finish the build. Probably worth putting my digital bore scope inside the engine to inspect the crank bearings and gears for rust before run it.
hi what kind off filament are you using ? also after market parts aldo they look awesome they dont last very long . also it devaluate the bike when not using original parts . its a nice project do . thanks for sharing .
Hi, I have used PLA so far. The plan is to replace them with more detailed print using PTEG later. However, no problems has occurred with the prints so far 🤞😎
@@kihestad the only problem with PLA is , it cant stand oil or grease . and its not sutteble for outdoor use like rain , heat , cold . but PTEG is good .
@@EDP1 Yes, PLA is easy to print, but has it's limitations when it comes to durability. I guess ABS is very durable, but I struggle printing it, it's warping a lot 😑 PTEG is my favourite, seem to be much more durable than PLA, but not do difficult to print.
@@kihestad PETG, ABS or ASA would be good choices indeed. Unlike PLA they do not deteriorate from sunlight. ABS and ASA can be hard to print though, and require enclosed printers both for temperatures and toxic fumes as well as a hot end upgrade for higher print temps as the teflon tube inside the block will melt at the ideal temps. God ide da, gjør noe av det samme selv! :D
I have tried ABS on my Ender 3Pro, without enclosure but with a "metal" blanket over it. I think the heated bed it not good enough, the heat pad is really small and the bed does not get hot enough along the edges. It warped pretty bad, and most of the times the print did not stick to the bed. I have not heard os ASA, need to check it, but PTEG works like a charm. Takk for innspillet - Ha ei fin helg! 😁
lol those are wish LED indicators. Cheap AF. U can also get exact same ones with a DRL function, so with indicator turned off they have a white LED on all time. Same for rear. U can have the rears come on as brake lights, then switch over for indicators.
These are bought on eBay, made in China. Did not cost much 😋 A lot of variants of these exists. If they will last for long? Time will show (probably not?)
@@kihestad yes also availiable on ebay :) Dont get me wrong they are fine and get the job done. I use them on my dirtbike so that when i snap them off they are cheap to replace. Ive used them on my road bike as well and they have lasted a few years. The only issue with them is they arnt exactly waterproof.
@@stavencapp exactly 👍 I noticed the rubber arm is just snapped into the blinker housing, no glue and no sealer. I might add some acrylic or silicon based stuff and try to get them at least water resistant if not water proof 😬
Those rear indicators are used on a few bikes. Aprilia AF1 Sintesi and various Ducatis from around 1990. Those front indicators are fitted to loads of different bikes. There are 2 different stalk fitments and several different lengths, and several different indicators that attach to the stalks. I fitted a pair just like yours to the back of my Bimota Dieci (sourced the indicators from a Honda NS125!).
Again you impress me with the details of the work you do in front of camera as well as behind the camera 👏🏻 Good to see you have a little bit of OCD when it comes to same bolts as well, nothing irritates me more than when you need 5 different tools to do easy work on a bike 🤣I feel you frustration when it comes to the porjects escalating a little, but me as a viewer are really happy with that 🙈🎥 I really can't wait to see how this works out in the end. Cheers
Thanks bro, very glad to hear you appreciated the video 😊 I guess my addiction to symmetry and standardization is borderline OCD 😂🤣
Great episode! Can't wait to see the next one. Seeing 3D printers put to such great use is always good to see.
Glad to hear that Chokkan 👍 A 3D printer is very useful as long as you take your time to learn 3D modelling. I am still learning, but staring to get the hang of it now 😊
I'm really surprised that I found a video like this. Because lately I've been thinking of a way to fabricate my own plastic parts for my dirtbike. Mainly fork guards maybe number plates, who knows really. I just wanted to give it a shot & see what I could come up with & see how good they would look. I really like the little things that you have made like the plastic washers & things to cover visible holes with. Very interesting. I myself don't own a machine to fabricate plastic parts but would like to purchase one in the future because I believe it could be a great help for so many things especially for a dirtbike that has lots of plastic made pieces. Very much enjoyed your video & will be watching any future videos that you post.
Thanks for your reply 😊 I have had my 3D printer for several years now, and I use it all the time for all kind of projects and repairs. I have to warn you: it is hot hassle free. The machine requires frequently maintenance and sometimes it needs to be repaired when stuff breaks or parts wears out. It takes some time to master 3D modelling as well (if you want to design your own parts). This hobby is best suited for a patient person. It is however great fun and very satisfying to be able to manufacture own parts when you master the skill and the machine works as intended 😁
My last print was a replacement seal for my shower cabinet glass wall. The old seal was broken, the cabinet is old and I could not find a replacement seal anywhere locally so the solution was to print one. My printers print bed is 23x23cm (9x9inches), I can print slim parts diagonally a bit larger but I had to print it in two parts to get the 45cm (18inches) length I needed. I would recommend buying a printer with at least a 30x30cm bed, perhaps even 35x35 (14x14inches).
I was impressed with the new lights.
I didn't like the idea at first, but the results were amazing.
The 3D printer is absolutely amazing; your skills always impress me.
Thanks 😊 I find the 3D printer very useful for doing small repairs, improvements and modifications. The small LED indicators are OK, but I would like to change them to slightly bigger ones if I can find any.
@@kihestad They looked a bit small and not bright enough, but the low profile look works surprisingly well on the bike.
hi k! the bike is really coming along nicely. the turng lights look great. i converted to led too but after two near crashes bc i forgot to turn the signal off i had to put a strong buzzer in the circuit.. it proved helpful with pedestrians too bc nowadays people seem to cross the street looking at their phones. thanks for sharing. take care. peter
Ahh, it is very easy to forget to turn of the indicators 😔 I will probably have to fix the non-blinking warning lights - or perhaps adding self cancelling turn signals would be even better 🤔
those little detials are amazing
Nice to hear, thanks 😊
3D printing is awesome! Thinking of a Vitpilen 401 3D project by myself
Ohh, that is a super cool bike 😎 It is so many smart mods that can be made using a 3D printer. 👍
The "relay" that creates the blinking, you could use that to make the dashboard indicator light blink
Yes, you're right. It's very strange as it is now, can't get used to it at all 😝 I have however bought some new old school indicators that is more similar to the original ones, just a bit smaller with very flexible arm to avoid them break easily. They have regular light bulbs, so I'll most likely go back to using the relay that way 😔
Nice details those 3d printed washers and plugs.
Thanks ☺️ It's quite easy to make these small 3D prints, a bit more challenging the rear fender 😋
@@kihestad waiting to see results! It looks very promising 👍.
Cagiva used to be sold in Thailand. Before it lost the market to motorcycles from Japan. However, I really like these Italian motorbikes so much.
Ahh, I did not know that, Cagiva was not a big brand and they did not sell all over the world. I have several motorcycles from Japan myself (Honda / Yamaha) and they are great as well, but I have to say that my Cagiva feels a bit more unique 😊
NICE WORK.
Thanks 😊
Nice project you have over there...
I miss your CB400 updates
Thanks ☺️ Continuing on my CB400 cafe racer project very soon!
Nice prints, and nice bike. A contour gage, and a cheap scanner might help with things like that fender cover.
Good idea, I actually have a scanner somewhere 👍😊 I have taken pictures with my camera. it is somewhat helpful but the camera lens distort the shape slightly and it's hard to be exact 90 degree angle to the subject when taking the shot. I think I'll try your suggestion next time, it's probably much more accurate. Thanks a lot for your tips! 🙂
Very cool and informative video, thank you very much! 👍🏻
Glad you liked it 🙂
This man is a God and doesn't realize it.
Hehe 😇 Thanks, but I'm pretty sure I'm not... 🤔
Brilliant bruk av 3D-printer!👍
Takker, min Ender 3 pro går i ett for tiden, en både morsom og nyttig hobby syns jeg 😊
I would fit LED headlight bulbs. The stock lights aren't very good.
Good idea 👍 I do agree, the original ones are quite dull 🥴 Thanks for the tips!
👍👍👍
Thanks 😊😊😊
I prefer indicators were the light can be seen from 90 degree angle in case a vehicle drivers or pedestrians are not straight in front of behind the motorcycle.
The original indicator glass stands out from the casing and can be seen from the side
Ahh, that is a very good point 💡 Never really thought about it, but what you say makes sense.
I am fairly satisfied with the 3D Printed mounting adapter for the small indicators, everything works well. However, I am not quite sure if they fit the bike design-wise. I will probably try to find bigger ones, possibly with orange glass, it might be more suitable for an old bike. I have bought new arms for the original front indicators, and I will try to source a pair of the original ones for the rear. I might revert back to the originals, if I can find a complete set 😊
What type of material do you use for your 3D prints? Could you maybe make a video about the designing / printing proces? Would be nice to see!
I mostly use PETG these days. I could absolutely make a video of the design/print process, it's one of my favorite tasks in a project 😊
cool idea with the fairing bolts, but using a bolt with a screwdriver head doesn't look great, you can get flush mount hex head bolts
Agree, would like to put on similar type of bolts with hex head, they could have been a bit more shiny a well. I did not find any stainless steel - chamfered hex bolts locally, so I went for those with Philips heads for now, but will change them if I can find hex type 👍
Is the 3d printed plastic equally as strong?
3D Prints are not as strong as injection molded plastics, for example I would not think a 3D printed rear fender will be strong enough. In this video I just make the cover on top of the rear fender, ant it does not have to cary any load. There are different type of plastics possible to use for 3D prints, some are stronger than others. Unfortunately, the strongest and most durable types of 3D print filament are the most difficult to print. An alternative is to use 3D printing to make a mold, and then make the piece more traditionally using fibreglass and epoxy resin.
At the very start of the journey to hopefully get some Cagiva/Husqvarna 1988 WRK250 unobtainable rad shrouds & decals scanned and reproduced. The originals are chalky and will crack easily 😢
Putting on new decals are great fun and very satisfying 😊
@@kihestad building this bike to ride Vintage Enduro events. Want reproduction plastics and seat so the originals can be preserved. The value of these old Cagiva Husqvarna bikes has gone through the roof and finding OEM parts is drying up. I am somewhat to blame for that 😉 found the unicorn item recently: NOS OEM barrel and piston assembly.
Love your work 👍🇦🇺
That's very cool! And yes, I struggle finding parts to my Cagiva as well 🥴 These rare bikes are definitely worth fixing, the value will just increase with time. It's also much more fun to own and ride a bike with an unique history 👍😊
@@kihestad that's along the lines of what i have been telling myself every time return to the project. I've owned the bike since 1995. It's been unridden since 97 Full engine rebuild, new clutch basket and plates, rebuilt the shocks and found the axle clamps cracked. 🤦♂️
I gave up on it for years... Sort of pre internet back then.
Since, I've slowly accumulated OEM NOS parts to future proof it.
Stripped the rims and found they were severely corroded and cracked (death trap), so had new Excel Takasago rims with new spokes put on my freshly powder coated hubs. Did nothing for 5 years now got the bug again.
Since the Vintage Enduro scene has really kicked off, it's apparent that my bike is worth more now than everything I've spent on it. My time not included 🤣
Have a Vinduro event in a few months I'm now working towards entering as my incentive to finally finish the build.
Probably worth putting my digital bore scope inside the engine to inspect the crank bearings and gears for rust before run it.
1995!!!! 🤩🤩🤩 That is just fantastic 😊 I really hope you get it restored, it seems to be a big job but it also seems like the bike is in good hands 😊
hi what kind off filament are you using ? also after market parts aldo they look awesome they dont last very long .
also it devaluate the bike when not using original parts . its a nice project do . thanks for sharing .
Hi, I have used PLA so far. The plan is to replace them with more detailed print using PTEG later.
However, no problems has occurred with the prints so far 🤞😎
@@kihestad the only problem with PLA is , it cant stand oil or grease . and its not sutteble for outdoor use like rain , heat , cold . but PTEG is good .
@@EDP1 Yes, PLA is easy to print, but has it's limitations when it comes to durability. I guess ABS is very durable, but I struggle printing it, it's warping a lot 😑 PTEG is my favourite, seem to be much more durable than PLA, but not do difficult to print.
@@kihestad PETG, ABS or ASA would be good choices indeed. Unlike PLA they do not deteriorate from sunlight. ABS and ASA can be hard to print though, and require enclosed printers both for temperatures and toxic fumes as well as a hot end upgrade for higher print temps as the teflon tube inside the block will melt at the ideal temps.
God ide da, gjør noe av det samme selv! :D
I have tried ABS on my Ender 3Pro, without enclosure but with a "metal" blanket over it. I think the heated bed it not good enough, the heat pad is really small and the bed does not get hot enough along the edges. It warped pretty bad, and most of the times the print did not stick to the bed. I have not heard os ASA, need to check it, but PTEG works like a charm.
Takk for innspillet - Ha ei fin helg! 😁
lol those are wish LED indicators. Cheap AF. U can also get exact same ones with a DRL function, so with indicator turned off they have a white LED on all time. Same for rear. U can have the rears come on as brake lights, then switch over for indicators.
These are bought on eBay, made in China. Did not cost much 😋 A lot of variants of these exists. If they will last for long? Time will show (probably not?)
@@kihestad yes also availiable on ebay :) Dont get me wrong they are fine and get the job done. I use them on my dirtbike so that when i snap them off they are cheap to replace. Ive used them on my road bike as well and they have lasted a few years. The only issue with them is they arnt exactly waterproof.
@@stavencapp exactly 👍 I noticed the rubber arm is just snapped into the blinker housing, no glue and no sealer. I might add some acrylic or silicon based stuff and try to get them at least water resistant if not water proof 😬
Those rear indicators are used on a few bikes. Aprilia AF1 Sintesi and various Ducatis from around 1990. Those front indicators are fitted to loads of different bikes. There are 2 different stalk fitments and several different lengths, and several different indicators that attach to the stalks. I fitted a pair just like yours to the back of my Bimota Dieci (sourced the indicators from a Honda NS125!).
Can you do a 3d print for me?
It is probably best for you to find someone local, shipping from Norway is crazy expensive 😋