I don’t know whether you’ll get this message as this video has been on here a long time I truly think you are an amazing photographer every think I watch of you your flash photography your macro photography I know your soul stack and you inspire me to want to be better thank you
Perfect timing! My wife just took a macro shot of a spider in our garden and asked me why it's not completely in focus. I told her about focus stacking, but this video will show her how to achieve it in Photoshop. Another great video by Gavin! keep up the great work.
Yeah yeah yeah! Another Gavin's Tutorial! Every time I check Adorama channel I hope for a new one ;) Really easy to understand (even for someone who didn't speak English very well), good technics and some humour... My favourite!
Gavin is the best. Love his tutorials. I actually shot one of these series the other day but wasn't sure about how to process them in Photoshop, or if you had to have special software for it. Now I know. Great video.
Thanks Gavin. You teach me great things to do with photoshop I didn't know I could do! You're a way more interesting & a better educator than the bland instruction manual which comes with photoshop! Thanks for helping me achieve better images with your tutorials.
Good job of explaining focus stacking. You would have a better chance of getting a sharp image with this set up if you used the camera's internal timer to take the photos. It would eliminate the camera movement from pushing then shutter release. Of course the mirror lock up function will help too.
Given the circumstances, the method you described and Gavin's is the best method since f8 - f13 is the sharpest f-stops for most lenses and is what i would use. However, stacking might not be convenient or possible in some circumstances so finding the hyperfocal distance is the next best option and a little post sharpening will most likely produce an acceptable image. Great points on the explanation of "acceptable focus" and how it applies to hyperfocal distance.
Gavin can you comment on the workflow (order) of both focus stacking and exposure bracketing in the field and then in post processing. Meaning, do I do a set of focus stacked images first, then do exposure bracketing? In post, do I first align the focus stacks and then do the exposure blending? thanks
It's funny to see how the years went by ... 2016 we needn't to do this improvised and manually anymore. With a smartphone app like "gsimplerelease" we control focal points and shutter without touching the camera. dozens of photos are taken in a few seconds automized and could be combined with stacking software like "helicon" perfectly. Less stress, better results ... what a progress.
Another brilliant Video, I'm only just starting out, and probably a silly question but I don't have any lens with the depth of field on the lens like yours can I still do the same with the focus ring by moving in stages if I have set everything else in aperture priority?
trying to figure out how you straightened out the horizon.. was in in camera raw? where you selected that "auto" stuff, and it made the horizon horizontal? and did you batch do it for all 3, or individually?
Gavin you are a gem ! Thankyou for all you do for us at no cost !. I have bought some of your own DVD's in the past which are also just as good and I can watch anytime I want :) Does this work in Elements though?
Gavin, a quick question for this video. You had three images in which the only thing that changed was the waves. Is there a way to still achieve this focus but to have the biggest waves in the final image? How does the stacking and blend layers handle which waves are included in the final image and is there a way to choose that yourself?
I dont know if I'm late..I never tried it but I would take the bracketing photos of different points of focus, like 3 bracketing photos at near, 3 at mid range and 3 for infinity. Then create 3 hdr pictures with each bracketing group, all with the very exact same post-processing. And finnally stack the 3 hdr photos, creating the final image, you then have a focus stacked hdr photo. Well this is my theory that I came up right now, hope it works. Cheers from Portugal
I see that moving waves were in the focus stacking that was done here. Is movement of objects in the composition ever a problem in seamlessly stacking the various photos together?
I started with Nikon Z auto. It worked. Then I tried Leica M10 , focused on close object, then moved manual focus in small increments to distant objects. Better
excellent video Gavin! let me guess: you are or have been a teacher! the way you can explain things in a very clear, structured and comprehensive way...no doubt :-)
Hi. Awesome video!!! If you dont use this way and just take on photo how is it possible that som photogrefer makes it pin sharp from 2m to infinity???? I have the 24-70mm and when i put my f-stop to 22 the background is still blurred .... Why is that? Do i kneed to calibrate my lens and camera? I hope you can help me on this one. Have i nice day Maestro!!!
How did the ocean and waves stay sharp through blending? I would think that stacking the images would make a mess of the ocean but it didn't. Thank you for the tutorial.
of course you can, you just take 1 bracket set at close, another full set at medium and another set at infinity. Combine each set of normal / over / under exposures this way as Gavin explained, then process your 3 resulting files as HDR.
Hey Gavin, great vid as usual! Thanks for sharing your knowledge with us. I have a question about focusing at infinity: I have the same lens you have and the infinity mark is not at the far end of the ring movement. Is infinity properly focused at the mark or at the very far end of the focusing ring? Keep posting nice stuff and congrats for being part of the adorama TV family! :-)
if you notice carefully after he uses the autoblend tool, there are now three layers with little black/white thumbnails next to them. Those are called masks in photoshop (google them). You can use these masks to paint the details back in that you'd like, and also omit them. However, with this technique you might find that the wave you want might not be the one in focus. the computer can only be so smart.
When you zoomed in to read the print in the final image, I could see the spots in the image from the sensor. I know they are more likely to appear at smaller apertures, but what is the best way to get rid of them in Post processing? ( assuming you have recently amended the 'dust delete" data in camera)
if you were to take this picture with a subject so close would it even be possible to use one focus and have it all fairly sharp? If so where would you autofocus?
He could. Based on his requirements he could focus 4ft into the scene and get sharpness from 50 cm to infinity based on my depth of field calculator on my phone. The distance scales on many lens are woefully inaccurate though. He could find an object 4 ft from the sensor plane and lock focus there and recompose. He could also use the 10x magnification in live view to check sharpness in the scene (flip screen of 60D shines here). Stacking is just another tool in the box.
Would it be possible to use a true macro lens that has a smaller smallest aperture, like f/57? Would that be enough? Does that even exist on 24mm? I do believe Nikon has one that can do f/57, but that's a 105mm...
Yes you will need CS6 to use these tools. In CS3 you can do it manually using masks on each layer to hide the parts you want to hide and reveal the parts you want to reveal, but it will take about 30 minutes instead of 30 seconds.
Adorama are lucky to have Gavin, he's a fantastic photographer and teacher.
I don’t know whether you’ll get this message as this video has been on here a long time I truly think you are an amazing photographer every think I watch of you your flash photography your macro photography I know your soul stack and you inspire me to want to be better thank you
Perfect timing!
My wife just took a macro shot of a spider in our garden and asked me why it's not completely in focus. I told her about focus stacking, but this video will show her how to achieve it in Photoshop. Another great video by Gavin! keep up the great work.
This is the best program of ADORAMA....
Yeah yeah yeah! Another Gavin's Tutorial! Every time I check Adorama channel I hope for a new one ;)
Really easy to understand (even for someone who didn't speak English very well), good technics and some humour... My favourite!
He is one of the best changes in adoramatv!
nice demonstration. I've always wanted to try focus-stacking but seeing it in action has motivated me. Thanks
Always enjoy your videos Gavin. Please keep them coming!
Gavin is the best. Love his tutorials. I actually shot one of these series the other day but wasn't sure about how to process them in Photoshop, or if you had to have special software for it. Now I know. Great video.
Thanks Gavin. You teach me great things to do with photoshop I didn't know I could do! You're a way more interesting & a better educator than the bland instruction manual which comes with photoshop! Thanks for helping me achieve better images with your tutorials.
After 6 years this is still very helpful thanks.
What a great tutorial; you have a fantastic personality, which really engages the viewer.
Good job of explaining focus stacking. You would have a better chance of getting a sharp image with this set up if you used the camera's internal timer to take the photos. It would eliminate the camera movement from pushing then shutter release. Of course the mirror lock up function will help too.
Given the circumstances, the method you described and Gavin's is the best method since f8 - f13 is the sharpest f-stops for most lenses and is what i would use. However, stacking might not be convenient or possible in some circumstances so finding the hyperfocal distance is the next best option and a little post sharpening will most likely produce an acceptable image.
Great points on the explanation of "acceptable focus" and how it applies to hyperfocal distance.
Gavin can you comment on the workflow (order) of both focus stacking and exposure bracketing in the field and then in post processing. Meaning, do I do a set of focus stacked images first, then do exposure bracketing? In post, do I first align the focus stacks and then do the exposure blending? thanks
Hi Gavin I don't know how to thank you. Very nice expressions &
explanations. In simple its just a beautiful session. Keep it on!!!
Superb tutorial as always Gavin.
Wonderful tutorial. Was looking for this one.
Today was the first time i shot macro with focus stack.
Thank you!
Nicely done. I only knew how to do this manually. The automatic blend was extremely effective.
Very nice, another thing to try for me. Image looks great!
It's funny to see how the years went by ... 2016 we needn't to do this improvised and manually anymore. With a smartphone app like "gsimplerelease" we control focal points and shutter without touching the camera. dozens of photos are taken in a few seconds automized and could be combined with stacking software like "helicon" perfectly. Less stress, better results ... what a progress.
Wow what an awesome tutorial you explained everything perfectly, excellent job Gavin!
Hey Gavin, great to see here as well! I love the way you motivate people to try new techniques. Keep up the good work
As always excellent. Very simply explained.
Great video sir! Learned quite a cool trick today.
Very, very great tuto Gavin ! Thanks to you, I can make beautiful pictures.
Merci encore.
Super simple and well explained....many thanks Sir.
Another brilliant Video, I'm only just starting out, and probably a silly question but I don't have any lens with the depth of field on the lens like yours can I still do the same with the focus ring by moving in stages if I have set everything else in aperture priority?
trying to figure out how you straightened out the horizon.. was in in camera raw? where you selected that "auto" stuff, and it made the horizon horizontal? and did you batch do it for all 3, or individually?
Gavin is an excellent teacher.
Gavin you are a gem ! Thankyou for all you do for us at no cost !. I have bought some of your own DVD's in the past which are also just as good and I can watch anytime I want :) Does this work in Elements though?
Yup...another great video from Gavin.
Gavin, a quick question for this video. You had three images in which the only thing that changed was the waves. Is there a way to still achieve this focus but to have the biggest waves in the final image? How does the stacking and blend layers handle which waves are included in the final image and is there a way to choose that yourself?
excellent tutorial Gavin !!! Great teacher !!!
I found a new idol... Amazing work can't wait to try this out
Thank you so much for this video. It has helped me a lot. I was struggling with hyperfocal distance as I do not have the focus ring on my kit lens.
I dont know if I'm late..I never tried it but I would take the bracketing photos of different points of focus, like 3 bracketing photos at near, 3 at mid range and 3 for infinity. Then create 3 hdr pictures with each bracketing group, all with the very exact same post-processing. And finnally stack the 3 hdr photos, creating the final image, you then have a focus stacked hdr photo.
Well this is my theory that I came up right now, hope it works. Cheers from Portugal
I have photoshop elements 12, am i able to do this effect as i can't find the same options you chose.
Man you do an amazing job im so greatfull for all your cool tips! keep going!!
I always asked how they do that. Now I know. Thank you Gavin, that was my missing link for perfectly sharp images thru the entire depth.
Very useful tutorial! Thank you Gavin.
I see that moving waves were in the focus stacking that was done here. Is movement of objects in the composition ever a problem in seamlessly stacking the various photos together?
Learning something new everyday! :)
Love the videos by Gavin!
Amazing and such a beautiful photo!
GREAT as usual....
Another excellent tutorial, thank you very much.
\\Great video GavinI I hadn't heard about this before, cant wait to try it!
I started with Nikon Z auto. It worked. Then I tried Leica M10 , focused on close object, then moved manual focus in small increments to distant objects. Better
Powerful tutorial - Thank you will try and give it a go.
excellent video Gavin! let me guess: you are or have been a teacher! the way you can explain things in a very clear, structured and comprehensive way...no doubt :-)
Great video!! I never knew this was possible. Now to check whether it's also possible with CS5
Nicely explained, as always. Thanks
Hi. Awesome video!!! If you dont use this way and just take on photo how is it possible that som photogrefer makes it pin sharp from 2m to infinity???? I have the 24-70mm and when i put my f-stop to 22 the background is still blurred .... Why is that? Do i kneed to calibrate my lens and camera? I hope you can help me on this one. Have i nice day Maestro!!!
How did the ocean and waves stay sharp through blending? I would think that stacking the images would make a mess of the ocean but it didn't. Thank you for the tutorial.
of course you can, you just take 1 bracket set at close, another full set at medium and another set at infinity.
Combine each set of normal / over / under exposures this way as Gavin explained, then process your 3 resulting files as HDR.
Again I learned a lot from you. Thank you so much!
great explanation, great teacher.
thank you very.. i just learned something new in photoshop. keep it up.
Oh great tips I'm gonna get started right away thanks
Hey Gavin,
great vid as usual! Thanks for sharing your knowledge with us. I have a question about focusing at infinity: I have the same lens you have and the infinity mark is not at the far end of the ring movement. Is infinity properly focused at the mark or at the very far end of the focusing ring?
Keep posting nice stuff and congrats for being part of the adorama TV family! :-)
if you notice carefully after he uses the autoblend tool, there are now three layers with little black/white thumbnails next to them. Those are called masks in photoshop (google them). You can use these masks to paint the details back in that you'd like, and also omit them. However, with this technique you might find that the wave you want might not be the one in focus. the computer can only be so smart.
Thanks Gavin, great tutorial. Can this be done in Cs5?
Impressive work indeed
you are the best Gavin ...
When you zoomed in to read the print in the final image, I could see the spots in the image from the sensor. I know they are more likely to appear at smaller apertures, but what is the best way to get rid of them in Post processing? ( assuming you have recently amended the 'dust delete" data in camera)
Great Gavin, But if your cs5 and dont have raw 7.1 is this stil possible??
Very helpful! will defo give this ago! :D
if you were to take this picture with a subject so close would it even be possible to use one focus and have it all fairly sharp? If so where would you autofocus?
Hey Gavin...did you use a filter? thanks!
Great video. Thanks!
Grande se~or Gavin !!!! Many Tnks !!!
thats awsome but how would you do this with HDR shot? with bracketed shots and you cant really move your focus
if its possible please explain tnx..
hi Gavin. did photoshop solve the issue of the waves too? 3 different shots with moving waves? just wondering.
Yes it can. CS5 has this exact feature located and used the same as in the video.
Awesome thanks!
Awesome!
Thanks so much very helpful
Great tutorial
COuld you do this in photoshop elements 10?
Nice trick!!!!! thanks
great great video , like
He could. Based on his requirements he could focus 4ft into the scene and get sharpness from 50 cm to infinity based on my depth of field calculator on my phone. The distance scales on many lens are woefully inaccurate though. He could find an object 4 ft from the sensor plane and lock focus there and recompose. He could also use the 10x magnification in live view to check sharpness in the scene (flip screen of 60D shines here). Stacking is just another tool in the box.
it's a very very good idea :D
Thanks for the reply Michael, it is appreciated
Also almost forgot, did you expose the image for the ground?
so for focus bracketing you used "Auto blend layers" and for exposure bracketing you used "auto align layers"?
Excellent
Gavin is great.
Hi Gavin, what PS version are you using in this video?
Would it be possible to use a true macro lens that has a smaller smallest aperture, like f/57? Would that be enough? Does that even exist on 24mm? I do believe Nikon has one that can do f/57, but that's a 105mm...
I live near Cromer and I have visited that pier.
Really interesting
Hello Gavin, I can also do this with cs5 ?
Is this the same way as cs6?
thanks gavin hoey best tutorials wic from malta
Im using a cs3 but i don't have an option to choose from panorama or stack images. Need a little help here. Thanks
You must update your Photoshop version. The version in the video is Photoshop C6/CC... I Think heheh!
Yes you will need CS6 to use these tools. In CS3 you can do it manually using masks on each layer to hide the parts you want to hide and reveal the parts you want to reveal, but it will take about 30 minutes instead of 30 seconds.
Good video
brilliant!!
can i do that in elements or lightroom 3
Thank you for the tip :)