I've never been in a situation yet where I have a fixture that's only rated for 240 or 277V that needs to be ran on 120V, nonetheless I figured this could be done in theory, as a crude autotransformer so to speak. You'd have a lot of losses so in a real life application replacing the 277V ballast or driver with a 120V or multi tap / universal voltage 120 ~ 277V ballast/driver would be your best bet, or use an appropriate step up transformer to supply the proper voltage on the input to the fixture.
Yes the common wire is required in order to make the ballast transform the voltage up or down. Otherwise the ballast won't have a proper magnetic field to run and step up or down the voltage.
Very useful video! Thanks! What would happen if the fixtures wattage exceeds the wattage of the ballast? I need a way to test a bunch of 277 volt fixtures that use 1300 watts, They will only be on a short time, but its still a larger wattage than I can find on any ballast.
Get some 277v cordcaps and do them one at a time. Or get a big transformer either new or used from an auction house and put 120V on the secondary and your load on the primary.
Spoiler: Use a spare multi tap ballast and hook up to the 120v - COM tap on the primary and output the 277 - COM on the primary also, creating a crude autotransformer. The secondary is left open (unconnected) and creates a bit of loss.
Not recommended! He teaches temp control with electric and you should never rewire for temp control! If it can’t be wired correctly the first time you should not do it! This kind of information can cause fire or death if someone else doesn’t know or job gets overlooked
Man, that transformer is so dope!
I've never been in a situation yet where I have a fixture that's only rated for 240 or 277V that needs to be ran on 120V, nonetheless I figured this could be done in theory, as a crude autotransformer so to speak. You'd have a lot of losses so in a real life application replacing the 277V ballast or driver with a 120V or multi tap / universal voltage 120 ~ 277V ballast/driver would be your best bet, or use an appropriate step up transformer to supply the proper voltage on the input to the fixture.
im trying to do this same thing for sum lights on my property…..what do i need to get to make this happen?
Yes the common wire is required in order to make the ballast transform the voltage up or down. Otherwise the ballast won't have a proper magnetic field to run and step up or down the voltage.
Yep , and common is a return path
Very useful video! Thanks! What would happen if the fixtures wattage exceeds the wattage of the ballast? I need a way to test a bunch of 277 volt fixtures that use 1300 watts, They will only be on a short time, but its still a larger wattage than I can find on any ballast.
Get some 277v cordcaps and do them one at a time. Or get a big transformer either new or used from an auction house and put 120V on the secondary and your load on the primary.
Have you checked the voltage using a meter?
Spoiler: Use a spare multi tap ballast and hook up to the 120v - COM tap on the primary and output the 277 - COM on the primary also, creating a crude autotransformer. The secondary is left open (unconnected) and creates a bit of loss.
Dehv Blak what??
Didn't see any meter, the bulb is running on 120volts., all electronic ballasts will run from 120 to 277volts
Induction lamp.
Electronic ballast ,you can give any voltage and it will take whatever voltage you give it , of course there's a Max voltage that it can take.
Not recommended! He teaches temp control with electric and you should never rewire for temp control! If it can’t be wired correctly the first time you should not do it! This kind of information can cause fire or death if someone else doesn’t know or job gets overlooked
You are creating a barking transformer where is barking the voltage from 120 up to 277
WOOF WOOF
@@thedavesofourlives1 Lol
Thanks
not a ballast, it’s a step up transformer.
The ballast contains a step up autotransformer.
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